Excellent suggestion, Dave!  Is there a smiley for a hand
slapping a forehead?  |-0

OK, fellow Z's, take your favorite photos and have them scanned
onto a floppy or CD.  Then send them to Z_Scale!

Best regards,
Jeffrey



--- In z_scale@y..., "D. A. Karp" <z@c...> wrote:
> If you don't want to invest in a digital camera, many photo
development
> places will now scan your photos onto a floppy or CD for the
same price as
> making prints.
>
>
>
> At 12:38 AM 2/3/2001 +0000, you wrote:
> >Do you have access to a digital camera in order to take some
> >JPG photos?
>
> ___________________________________________
> http://www.creativelement.com/z/

Jeffrey, is it possible to set up the Z_Scale home page so that by
clicking on the featured layout picture, one can view a larger
version of the same photo? I'd love to get a closer look at the
details on people's layouts.

Taking the idea a step further to a more labor-intensive level,
linking the home-page layout photo to a separate page containing
several photos of the layout would be great too. Once I've seen one,
I always want to see more!  :)

Cheers, and keep up the good work!

-- Andy Hunting

Hi Andy,

I'll look into your suggestions.  In the meantime, you can see the
full size image in the 'Files -  Cover Photos' section.  I place all of
the original jpegs there.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/z_scale/files/Cover+Photos/p342.
jpg

You can also visit his layout via
http://tappi.me.tut.fi/~ktanskan/photo/z/

Enjoy,
Jeffrey




--- In z_scale@y..., zscale@r... wrote:
>
> Jeffrey, is it possible to set up the Z_Scale home page so that
by
> clicking on the featured layout picture, one can view a larger
> version of the same photo? I'd love to get a closer look at the
> details on people's layouts.
>
> Taking the idea a step further to a more labor-intensive level,
> linking the home-page layout photo to a separate page
containing
> several photos of the layout would be great too. Once I've seen
one,
> I always want to see more!  :)
>
> Cheers, and keep up the good work!
>
> -- Andy Hunting

OK, Andy, it's done...I've linked the Cover photo to Kari's home
page so you can visit his layout from our list's home page.

I really like your suggestion.  If  members send their photos
along with the link to their home page or to their photo pages, I'll
link the cover photo to their layout pages.

Cheers,
Jeffrey


--- In z_scale@y..., zscale@r... wrote:
>
> Jeffrey, is it possible to set up the Z_Scale home page so that
by
> clicking on the featured layout picture, one can view a larger
> version of the same photo? I'd love to get a closer look at the
> details on people's layouts.
>
> Taking the idea a step further to a more labor-intensive level,
> linking the home-page layout photo to a separate page
containing
> several photos of the layout would be great too. Once I've seen
one,
> I always want to see more!  :)
>
> Cheers, and keep up the good work!
>
> -- Andy Hunting

Jeffrey,

Also something to consider is a rotating image - a different random image
would appear each time the page is loaded.  Not a request; more of a "what if."

-David



At 01:24 AM 2/3/2001 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Andy,
>
>I'll look into your suggestions.  In the meantime, you can see the
>full size image in the 'Files -  Cover Photos' section.  I place all of
>the original jpegs there.

___________________________________________
http://www.creativelement.com/z/

David,

I'm not sure whether Yahoogroups.com would permit such
sophisticated effects on their limited hosting capacities.  It's
something to look into if and when we get a number of images
from members.  I suspect that the random image display
generator might be a java applet.  If that is the case, I'm out to
lunch.  I'm lucky just to be able to string a bunch of letters
together and even then I'm nto always os lkcuy!   ;-)

Cheers,
Jeffrey


--- In z_scale@y..., "D. A. Karp" <z@c...> wrote:
> Jeffrey,
>
> Also something to consider is a rotating image - a different
random image
> would appear each time the page is loaded.  Not a request;
more of a "what if."
>
> -David
>
>
>
> At 01:24 AM 2/3/2001 +0000, you wrote:
> >Hi Andy,
> >
> >I'll look into your suggestions.  In the meantime, you can see
the
> >full size image in the 'Files -  Cover Photos' section.  I place
all of
> >the original jpegs there.
>
> ___________________________________________
> http://www.creativelement.com/z/

I have heard that Bachman makes skyscrapers for HO scale. Do they
make them for z scale too? What is their web address?

Chraun

Jeffrey,

If you're interested, I could whip one up in Perl.  No problemo.

-David



At 01:58 AM 2/3/2001 +0000, you wrote:
>David,
>
>I'm not sure whether Yahoogroups.com would permit such
>sophisticated effects on their limited hosting capacities.  It's
>something to look into if and when we get a number of images
>from members.  I suspect that the random image display
>generator might be a java applet.  If that is the case, I'm out to
>lunch.  I'm lucky just to be able to string a bunch of letters
>together and even then I'm nto always os lkcuy!   ;-)
>
>Cheers,
>Jeffrey

___________________________________________
http://www.creativelement.com/z/

Ole,
   The problem you are having is not your fault.
Carbide end mills have a nasty habit of "walking out of collets even on
Bridgeport mills. An easy way to cure this problem is to either bead blast
or scuff up the shank of the cutter with a diomond file or a silican carbide
stone. to answer your other question, normaly we do use an under size cutter
and finish with a second or third cut. By the way you will notice that the
cutter leaves a better finish in one direction.
be careful of which way you feed the cutter into the work, heavier cuts
should be "conventional" meaning the cutter turns toward the direction of
cut, finish cuts will feed in the opposite direction or what we call "climb
cutting".
A little off topic but I hope it helps
Don


>From: Ole Rosted <Ole.Rosted@...>
>Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [z_scale] bad collets? - wrenches.jpg
>Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 21:41:37 +0100
>
>Hi group,
>
>Today I started to mill the final parts for my first turnout-jig.
>
>I ruined the whole lot. These parts are ment as support for the
>ties during soldering and as the ties are only 0,7 mm "high" the
>grooves where they are placed must be reasonably accurate.
>
>The old gost pulling the mills out from the collet reappeared,
>however, and the grooves are not accurate - to put it mildly.
>
>I don't understand this. The toy-wrenches that came with the mill are
>- as can be seen to the left in the attached pic - not very good. So I
>bought the two to the right. The collet in my mill is - I think - what
>the Sherline catalog calls: a  "WW collet"  I don't know what the WW
>stands for, but I do think, that a Morse tapered collet would have
>been better. But WW collets are what I have.
>
>The endmills I use are high quality 4-flute OSG Micrograin mills with
>a shaft diameter of 3 mm. My digital caliper says they are 2,99 mm.
>The collet is marked: 3mm.
>After I had bought the new wrenches I thought for a moment, that the
>problem with pulled-out-mills was gone. But no! My 1.5 mm (= N-scale
>pcb tie) mill was pulled out several times :-(((
>
>I may be doing something wrong? Is there anything to take into
>consideration when milling slots as wide as the mill's diameter.
>Should I mill the slots with a smaller dia. mill repeatedly until I
>get the slot as wide as I want?
>
>I simply don't understand that so much force must be used to tighten
>the collet. A pic of the collet carrier and a collet is inset.
>
>The picture is low quality, but you'll be able to see what it is, I'm
>talking about.
>
>regards Ole Rosted
>
>
><< wrenches.jpg >>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Hi Danny,
I'm not sure about Marklin but Micro-trains uses older semi auto pad
printers and etched steel templates to get the high quality images on their
rolling stock. These machines can be found on Ebay for a few thousand
dollars. Then they need to be modified to be accurate enough for z scale.
also the pads that are available commercially are not useable for the very
small printing so plan on purchasing a bell vacume jar and having a pad mold
made so you can make your own.
Of course there are some manual machines on the market that will put your
logo on pens and golf balls but I know from experience they are only capable
of the most basic model decorating.
I spent months trying to get an acceptable print on the rogue GP38's with
one of these cheap econoprinters. In the end I went with a company in
Portland.
Don.
Rantings from the Pacific NorthWest

>From: Danny Goodman <dannyg@...>
>Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [z_scale] Pad Printing
>Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:24:22 -0800
>
>The "Lettering" thread got me wondering about what's involved with the
>kind of pad printing that Marklin uses. I seem to recall reading someone
>on this list doing it as well. What materials and processes are needed?
>
>Danny
>http://www.dannyg.com

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Hello Dieter and others,

I think Dieter has a good point about most people not
being able to scan or upload the images.

I have both slide and flatbed scanners. So, if you
send me your pictures I will volunteer to scan them
and get them to Jeff.  The scanned files will also be
available to you for your own use.

You can send your photos or a slides to me at the
address below.  If you want the photo or slide
returned, please enclose a self addressed stamped
envelop.  Please do not send more then 10 pictures.

You can mail them to me at:

Bill Erfurth
Box 2185
Evergreen, Colorado 80439
USA


Regards,
Bill






--- Dieter_Mac_Nolte@... wrote:
> Dear Jeff,
>
> with great pleasure I would like to show you some
> pictures of my American
> layout. However, I have only a simple PC (not even a
> Pentium processor), some
> friends call it a 'Lambarene PC'. However, this was
> state of the art in 1999!!
> I am not able with my equipment and knowledge to
> place pictures into the web.
> I wonder how many Z fans world wide are able to do
> this. I estimate, only 30 or
> at most 40 Z fans are able to provide the full
> service. Really, a small number.
> So, please accept my appology, not being able to
> participate in this contest.
>
> P.S.: I am still working at the data bank
> principles.
>
> Regards
>
> Dieter
>
>
>
> jmac_han@... schrieb:
> > Hi Gang,
> >
> > This week's cover photo comes from Kari Tanskanen.
>  Check
> > out the following link to admire his layout.
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/z_scale
> >
> > Thanks Kari. :-)
> >
> > Last week's photo featured Stan Jones' modules
> from the great
> > state of Texas.
> >
> > Invitation to all Z_Scale members: we need more
> photos of your
> > work.  Upload your jpegs to the group in 'Files -
> Cover photos'
> > and the world will soon be admiring your module,
> model,
> > structure, bridge, layout etc. as one of Z_Scale's
> Cover Photos.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jeffrey MacHan
> >
> >
> >
> > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive
> in Small DoseZ!
> >
> >
>
> Dieter W. Nolte
> E-Mail Dieter_Mac_Nolte@...
>
>


__________________________________________________
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

If the MTL Mogul sits on a Marklin 8803 / 8895 chassis, replacing the motor is
going to be extremely difficult becuase the motor and the 'big piece' of the
chassis are all one unit. You would have to completely take it apart and then
rebuild it on the new chassis.

The older MTL Moguls DID use this chassis. I do not know about the current ones.

BB

IF you obtained a new Marklin 2-6-0 engine with a 5-pole motor
pre-installed, you could easily swap the chassis and wheelsets, and
then you'd be set...



--- In z_scale@y..., "'Bim' Bousman" <bim@s...> wrote:
> If the MTL Mogul sits on a Marklin 8803 / 8895 chassis, replacing
the motor is
> going to be extremely difficult becuase the motor and the 'big
piece' of the
> chassis are all one unit. You would have to completely take it apart
and then
> rebuild it on the new chassis.
>
> The older MTL Moguls DID use this chassis. I do not know about the
current ones.
>
> BB

I am looking for a used copy of Koll's Marklin Z book.  Something four
or five years old is fine.

Thanks,

Bill
sherlockmarketing@...

----- Original Message -----

From: z@...

To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 12:26 AM

Subject: [z_scale] Re: MTL Mogul motor replacement

IF you obtained a new Marklin 2-6-0 engine with a 5-pole motor
pre-installed, you could easily swap the chassis and wheelsets, and
then you'd be set...

Thanks David,

Let's wait and see if the list reacts to my invitation for images.  So far
only one member has submitted a photo.

Cheers,
Jeffrey


>From: "D. A. Karp" <z@...>
>Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: Kari Tanskanen on Cover this week!
>Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 18:21:14 -0800
>
>Jeffrey,
>
>If you're interested, I could whip one up in Perl.  No problemo.
>
>-David
>
>
>
>At 01:58 AM 2/3/2001 +0000, you wrote:
> >David,
> >
> >I'm not sure whether Yahoogroups.com would permit such
> >sophisticated effects on their limited hosting capacities.  It's
> >something to look into if and when we get a number of images
> >from members.  I suspect that the random image display
> >generator might be a java applet.  If that is the case, I'm out to
> >lunch.  I'm lucky just to be able to string a bunch of letters
> >together and even then I'm nto always os lkcuy!   ;-)
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Jeffrey
>
>___________________________________________
>http://www.creativelement.com/z/
>

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

I'm looking to lay my track within a day or so, actually, it's now
sitting on the AMI roadbed, just not firmly seated yet. Although I
like
the AMI, a fear I have is once track is down...it's never coming up.

Not that I'm going to make any changes (it's a small layout) but what
would happen if a switch burns out. I don't see how I'd be able to
remove and replace it without destroying all surrounding track.

The surrounding track is soldered, the switch is the only floating
piece. Foe this reason I was considering either modifying an under
table switch or install a ground throw.

ANy thoughts on this?

Thanks
John

Hi John,

I have no experience with AMI roadbed so I don't know if or how
you would be able to lift a switch if it needed to be replaced.

One of the reasons that I used water soluable track ballast was
to be able to easily reposition track and to remove balky
switches.  I have had to do so twice already and I think that I have
two more spots that might need to be worked on.

Hopefully there are AMI experts on the list who have words of
wisdom for you.  Good luck.

Cheers,
Jeffrey

--- In z_scale@y..., jcubbin@o... wrote:
> I'm looking to lay my track within a day or so, actually, it's now
> sitting on the AMI roadbed, just not firmly seated yet. Although I
> like
> the AMI, a fear I have is once track is down...it's never coming
up.
>
> Not that I'm going to make any changes (it's a small layout) but
what
> would happen if a switch burns out. I don't see how I'd be able
to
> remove and replace it without destroying all surrounding track.
>
> The surrounding track is soldered, the switch is the only
floating
> piece. Foe this reason I was considering either modifying an
under
> table switch or install a ground throw.
>
> ANy thoughts on this?
>
> Thanks
> John

Thanks Jeffery,

I'm going down now to the local hobby shop to pick up a Caboose Ground
Throw and a Marklin manual switch. A little Dremel work and we'll see
what happens.

I have run some tests on soldered track and AMI roadbed and I've yet to
be able to remove a center section without seriously damaging the
surrounding track.

I'll report back on the ground throw issue!

John

John,
A good electronic supply house usually carries soldering irons that have
needle point tips and temperature control capabilities. The ultimate
soldering tool is the resistance soldering system available through PBL
<www.p-b-l.com> they also have some very nice Sn3 items that are fun to
dream about.
Cheers,
Jay Greer/Der Wegmann
> From: jcubbin@...
> Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 19:45:59 -0000
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [z_scale] Re: AMI Instant Roadbed, Soldered Track & Turnouts
>
> Thanks Jeffery,
>
> I'm going down now to the local hobby shop to pick up a Caboose Ground
> Throw and a Marklin manual switch. A little Dremel work and we'll see
> what happens.
>
> I have run some tests on soldered track and AMI roadbed and I've yet to
> be able to remove a center section without seriously damaging the
> surrounding track.
>
> I'll report back on the ground throw issue!
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
>
>
>

Hi Ole,
I have been following your letters about the problems you have been having
with your mill and sharing in your frustration. All of the advice sent to
you I have read is valid. I will also give you a little input here. The WW
Collets by Sherline are lathe collets that are designed to hold a long piece
of stock that passes through the collet and into the hollow draw bar
assembly. The mill collets that I purchased with my metric mill are three in
number, being 3,4 and 6mm they are a #1 Morse taper and are taken up with a
draw bolt. The collets are not designed to have the end mill cutters pass
through them. Now, you have a different kind of collet chuck that is taken
up by tightening a threaded collar rather than using a draw bolt. Several
things can happen here. Assuming that the collet has not been damaged by the
end mill walking out of it and damaging the bore, you should have a slip fit
of between the cutter and the collet of approx. .025mm before it has had any
pressure applied. That means that you should feel a slight drag when putting
the tool into the collet. If the tool is loose in the collet before take up
it will distort a little and cause the tool to wobble. A light film of wiped
on oil will help the collet slide on it's taper but don't oil the tool
gripping surface.  Now, before you tighten the holder with the wrenches,
make sure that the tool has not bottomed out in the holder. Leave yourself
about 1mm clearance here or you will be forcing the shank of the cutter
against the bottom of the holder and when you start applying pressure, that
can cause the whole works to go out of whack because you are trying to force
the bottomed out tool further down whilst trying to grip it. The cutter
should be smaller than the width of the cut you want to make and should move
in against the direction of tool rotation just as your razor trims your
beard or a wood plane cuts. Your cuts should be light until you develop a
feel for the tool. It will talk to you through your hands and you will
unconsciously develop an inner sense for what you are seeing happen. Take
your time and don't try to hog out more material than your tool can handle
in one pass. I mentioned to you in an earlier letter that a dial indicator
can be a good thing. It will tell you if your tool holder is running
concentricly by mounting it on the table, running it up against a piece of
drill stock held in the tool holder and slowly rotating the machine by hand
or running it on "granny" (really slow).
I know what you must be going through but just be patient and I am sure you
will be successful! You might also have that machinist friend check out your
mill for you. There are also collets that have an extra set of slots cut
from the back side but they are very expensive and I don't think they are
called for here.
I hope this helps a little.
Best Wishes,
Jay Greer/Der Wegmann

> From: Ole Rosted <Ole.Rosted@...>
> Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 01:06:16 +0100
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [z_scale] bad collets? - wrenches.jpg attn: Nelson Snedeker
>
> On Fri, 02 Feb 2001 13:33:30 -0800, you wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Thank you for your reply to my letter!
>
>> Buy collets with two slots 90
>> degrees to each other or add another slot to your existing collets if that is
>> possible.
>
> Actually there is three slots in the collets evenly spaced.
> Unfortunately this cannot be seen in the photo. 2 more inches added to
> the camera elevation, and the slots would have been clearly visible.
> How stupid of me!
>
> The slits are *very* narrow. I have a friend in Copenhagen. He has a
> lathe, but I'm not sure he can work on tool-quality steel. If he can
> I'll ask him to make me a more accurate3 mm collet - or perhabs the
> slits in those I have can be made a tiny fraction of a mm wider. (If
> that will be of any help)
>
> regards Ole Rosted
>
>
>
>
> "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
>
>
>

Hello to all Z-scalers
I haven't made the plunge into Z (yet),but I have used AMI track bed in
N-scale.The key to future repair or modification to track work is to place a
piece (cut to fit)of the backing paper (slick side up)under your switch. I
would also leave a few pieces of track on each side Unsoldered.
Good luck and happy modeling.
P.S. I am enjoying your list very much.I can't believe you guys letter your
own rolling stock .
-----Original Message-----
From: jcubbin@... <jcubbin@...>
To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, February 04, 2001 2:46 PM
Subject: [z_scale] Re: AMI Instant Roadbed, Soldered Track & Turnouts


>Thanks Jeffery,
>
>I'm going down now to the local hobby shop to pick up a Caboose Ground
>Throw and a Marklin manual switch. A little Dremel work and we'll see
>what happens.
>
>I have run some tests on soldered track and AMI roadbed and I've yet to
>be able to remove a center section without seriously damaging the
>surrounding track.
>
>I'll report back on the ground throw issue!
>
>John
>
>
>
>
>"Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
>
>

I picked up a Caboose ground throw in hopes of replacing the big black box,
but it looked huge next to the z scale track. I had some discussion several
months ago with a z scale manufacturer who said he would consider making
some z scale ground throws, however I have nt heard anymore about it and as
of yet have not contacted him again. Perhaps this would be good time to do
it.  Dale

jcubbin@... wrote:

> Thanks Jeffery,
>
> I'm going down now to the local hobby shop to pick up a Caboose Ground
> Throw and a Marklin manual switch. A little Dremel work and we'll see
> what happens.
>
> I have run some tests on soldered track and AMI roadbed and I've yet to
> be able to remove a center section without seriously damaging the
> surrounding track.
>
> I'll report back on the ground throw issue!
>
> John
>
>
> "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!

This is a good idea to suggest to Don Bouchard and Jon Lamere.  Hey guys,
why not produce a Z scale ground throw kit for one of your next injection
molded items?

Is it in the realm of doability?  What are your thoughts?

I'd also like to see some lineside structures: tool shed, speeder shed,
signal boxes etc.  :-)

Cheers,
Jeffrey


>From: Dale Halterman <dnhalt@...>
>Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: AMI Instant Roadbed, Soldered Track & Turnouts
>Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 21:47:29 -0500
>
>I picked up a Caboose ground throw in hopes of replacing the big black box,
>but it looked huge next to the z scale track. I had some discussion several
>months ago with a z scale manufacturer who said he would consider making
>some z scale ground throws, however I have nt heard anymore about it and as
>of yet have not contacted him again. Perhaps this would be good time to do
>it.  Dale


_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

--- In z_scale@y..., sherlockmail@y... wrote:
> I am looking for a used copy of Koll's Marklin Z book.  Something
four
> or five years old is fine.
> Thanks,
> Bill

Please tell me what this book is like?  Is it to help collectors or is
it a how-to book for modelers?  If it is a how-to book, I would really
like to know the exact title, and I'll help you look.

Thanks!  Rob Kornhauser

Hi,
    This question goes mainly to Alex and Jeffrey, but anyone's
comments are welcome!  I finally bought an AC to DC converter for my
Marklin turntable, and wired it up temporarily as it is just sitting
in a hole in a cardboard box.  The converter is of adjustable voltage
in 1.5 volt increments from 3 up to 12 volts and is rated at 500
milliamps.  At 7.5 volts, only the solenoids on the turntable click
and the table won't rotate.  At 9 volts, the solenoids click more
consistently, but the turntable only rotates about 40% of the time,
and it's fairly loud.  At 12 volts, the turntable rotates about 90% of
the time, but whines annoyingly loud enough that my wife complained
about hearing a dentist's drill.  I tested it at varying voltages for
about an hour, and I oiled it in the 3 oil holes with Labelle "plastic
compatible" model train oil after stopping at 5 or 6 index stops.  It
still whines terribly loud and usually doesn't move at less than 12
volts even though I can hear the solenoids click at lower voltages.  I
wonder if I have a defective product.  Any suggestions?

Thank you!

Rob Kornhauser

--- In z_scale@y..., "Jeffrey MacHan" <jmac_han@h...> wrote:
> Hi Gang,
>
> Following up on Alex's valid comments on my previous posting on the
subject of power supplies for the Marklin turntable control box, I
have made corrections to the diagram which will greatly simplify
connections.
>
> Simply connect your choice of AC or DC to the AC inputs of the box.
  Either will work, I tested it to be sure :-)
> There will be a slight loss of voltage through the bridge rectifier
if you opt for DC, about .33 volts.  So, no need to open the box or
burn youself with a soldering iron, just plug and play!  Where have I
heard that expression before?
>
> Cheers,
> Jeffrey

Hi Dale,
You might check into Nn3 and Republic Locomotive Works.  They offer some
nice ground throws and switch stands.
Jay Greer/Der Wegmann

> From: Dale Halterman <dnhalt@...>
> Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 21:47:29 -0500
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: AMI Instant Roadbed, Soldered Track & Turnouts
>
> I picked up a Caboose ground throw in hopes of replacing the big black box,
> but it looked huge next to the z scale track. I had some discussion several
> months ago with a z scale manufacturer who said he would consider making
> some z scale ground throws, however I have nt heard anymore about it and as
> of yet have not contacted him again. Perhaps this would be good time to do
> it.  Dale
>
> jcubbin@... wrote:
>
>> Thanks Jeffery,
>>
>> I'm going down now to the local hobby shop to pick up a Caboose Ground
>> Throw and a Marklin manual switch. A little Dremel work and we'll see
>> what happens.
>>
>> I have run some tests on soldered track and AMI roadbed and I've yet to
>> be able to remove a center section without seriously damaging the
>> surrounding track.
>>
>> I'll report back on the ground throw issue!
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
>
>
>
> "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE!  Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
>
>
>

Hello Jeffrey,
I know, I've been bad. I seem to remember promising Dale we'd
design a Z and Nn3 scale ground throw. Not enough to justify an
injection
mold though! We'd make it out of cast white metal, similar to the ones
available
for the HO guys (but smaller and shorter stroke).
     Starting in April we will have a much larger design capacity for
delivering
small items like these.
     Lineside structures, inexpensive photo-etch, you bet. They're on the
list.
But hey, what are you going to put in that speeder shed -- a motorized Z
scale
speeder? I want to see it first.

I'm still working on an old time passenger station and some items for
George Johnstone that will help out the diesel crowd. The ground throws
have not been forgotten.

Hang in there.
Reynard

Jeffrey MacHan wrote:

> This is a good idea to suggest to Don Bouchard and Jon Lamere.  Hey
> guys,
> why not produce a Z scale ground throw kit for one of your next
> injection
> molded items?
>
> Is it in the realm of doability?  What are your thoughts?
>
> I'd also like to see some lineside structures: tool shed, speeder
> shed,
> signal boxes etc.  :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Jeffrey
>
>
> >From: Dale Halterman <dnhalt@...>
> >Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> >To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: AMI Instant Roadbed, Soldered Track &
> Turnouts
> >Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 21:47:29 -0500
> >
> >I picked up a Caboose ground throw in hopes of replacing the big
> black box,
> >but it looked huge next to the z scale track. I had some discussion
> several
> >months ago with a z scale manufacturer who said he would consider
> making
> >some z scale ground throws, however I have nt heard anymore about it
> and as
> >of yet have not contacted him again. Perhaps this would be good time
> to do
> >it.  Dale
>

HI GROUP,

Anyone Have a good example of a high quality ground throw kit in another
scale?
As for if it is in the realm of "doability" I certainly hope not!, I am
highly motivated by the improbable and down right driven by the impossible:)
In all seriousness, I will be happy to build it if people want it and I
don't go bankrupt doing it. (wow hows that for a company motto,;)
   By the way, I've accepted a position at another company so that I will be
able to expand my work with BL Products. Although it is not a mold shop, it
does have the capabilities for me to continue building molds and will offer
me much more cnc machine time than I was able to aquire at my present job.
Jon is going to continue to work at the other shop so we will still have an
in at an injection mold shop.
    This I hope will speed up my lead time in bringing new products to
market.
Don
Rantings from the Pacific Northwest

>From: "Jeffrey MacHan" <jmac_han@...>
>Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [z_scale] Z scale ground throws and other suggestions!
>Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 03:14:21
>
>This is a good idea to suggest to Don Bouchard and Jon Lamere.  Hey guys,
>why not produce a Z scale ground throw kit for one of your next injection
>molded items?
>
>Is it in the realm of doability?  What are your thoughts?
>
>I'd also like to see some lineside structures: tool shed, speeder shed,
>signal boxes etc.  :-)
>
>Cheers,
>Jeffrey
>
>
> >From: Dale Halterman <dnhalt@...>
> >Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> >To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: AMI Instant Roadbed, Soldered Track & Turnouts
> >Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 21:47:29 -0500
> >
> >I picked up a Caboose ground throw in hopes of replacing the big black
>box,
> >but it looked huge next to the z scale track. I had some discussion
>several
> >months ago with a z scale manufacturer who said he would consider making
> >some z scale ground throws, however I have nt heard anymore about it and
>as
> >of yet have not contacted him again. Perhaps this would be good time to
>do
> >it.  Dale
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
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>

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At 2/4/01 07:14 PM, you wrote:
>This is a good idea to suggest to Don Bouchard and Jon Lamere.  Hey guys,
>why not produce a Z scale ground throw kit for one of your next injection
>molded items?
>
>Is it in the realm of doability?  What are your thoughts?
>
>I'd also like to see some lineside structures: tool shed, speeder shed,
>signal boxes etc.  :-)
>
>Cheers,
>Jeffrey

I have several N scale Lo Ramapo switch stands. They're the stands that
have the yellow ball on top with four lights, one on each side. The handle
rotates 180 degrees in the vertical plane (on the prototype, mine have a
rather hidden lever-type handle that rotates in the horizontal plane).

Now these things are about 3/16" high. They're brass, much too small
for free-standing plastic. The light lenses are 0.046" in diameter. They
might be a tad big (25% or so) for Z scale, but they would certainly
look better than those Caboose Industries ground throws (which are
too big for N scale).

N J International sells them for $7.95 each, and they are a true work
of art. They do operate, and will can be used to move a smooth turnout
that does not have a locking spring. You should use power-routing
turnouts that do not depend on the switch points to transmit power.

Granted, $8 is rather high, but I'm building my own turnouts (in N), and
the rest of the materials run about $1.50, so I'm still much less than
the $14-15 for a commercial turnout. Turnouts in Z are no more diffucult
than turnouts in N; we even use the same rail and ties.

Food for thought.


Scott Whitmire
whitmire@...