For a while now I ahve had a slight problem with my VR-40 steering.  Somehow,
no matter how carefully I would adjust the steering for the USS bars, they
would soon end up with the wheel pointing in one direction and the bars in
another.  Yesterday I discovered that a pivot bolt had loosened and the bars
were pivoting forward and back,  which effected the distance between the
pivot on the bars and the pivot on the front fork.  A few  moments to tighten
the bolt and the problem was solved.  THAT was a frightening thing!  One time
I pulled up on the bars rounding a corner and it felt like the whole front
end had slipped sideways (it had!) and nearly threw me off.  If youhave this
set up, take a look to make sure that all the bolts are secure before riding!
  Frightening, and possibly dangerous!

mark

visit Wood Art Custom Designs
http://woodartcustom.freeservers.com

or

http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html

Hand crafted items made to order!

I've had a sore tailbone lately, and some posts about Vision's seats
on a.r.b.r lead me to inspect my (2001) VR40's seat base padding.  I
found that the trailing edge has compressed somewhat (right in the
center).  The open cell foam that they use seems to compress easily,
so I'm wondering if that's what's causing my sore tailbone.  I keep
the nose strap and under-seat straps tight, so I don't think I'm
"sinking."

What I'm thinking about trying is a thin piece of closed cell foam
(like what backpackers use) under the stock Vision foam pad.

Anyone else played around with the foam padding?

Gorgeous weather blessed is here in CO this weekend, so I took
advantage of it and went for two short but pleasant rides.

Saturday was the first time my wife rode her new RANS Stratus.  We
tooled around our neighborhood, and to my surprise, she had very few
problems starting and stopping (my biggest fear, as she's new to
bents).  Even though her bike is overgeared (IMO), she had no trouble
with the hills where we live.  That bike is deinitely getting some
Calhoun Evo Sport bars (bent similarly to the OSS bars on my Vision)
and a 26/36/46 (170mm) Sugino XD crankset.

Sunday I decided to take my bike to work and drop off some video's at
the local Blockbuster.  With the tires pumped up to 100psi, the 46/14
was spinning sweetly on the flats.  And, unlike my weekday commute,
the lack of cars in the technology park allowed my to take the corners
a little more widely, which felt great with my seat all the way
reclined.

Off to California tomorrow for a business trip...

Drove down to Casa Grande, AZ with Tim to "Ride the
Ruins".  This is an annual ride/race put on by the
City of Casa Grande and the Casa Grand National
Monument.

The route is 23.5 miles from O'Neil Park in Casa
Grande to the Casa Grande Ruins in Coolidge.  You get
a medal, a t-shirt, a pancake breakfast, and a free
tour of the ruins at the finish for your $25 entrance
fee.  After the ride they provide a bus ride back to
the start, with bikes delivered in a truck.  We chose
to ride back to Casa Grande.

I rented a bright green Vision VR-65 Saber to try out
on the ride.  The Saber has a straight monotube frame,
above seat steering, short wheelbase and a high bottom
bracket.  It's most unusual feature are its two 24"
wheels.  Components are Shimano Ultegra triple
chainring road group with fancy STI shifter/brake
levers.  It is designed as a high-end fast bike,
weighing in at 27.5 lbs (light for a recumbent) and
around $3000 list price.

I'll guess 100 riders showed up at O'Neil Park,
including a Trek recumbent and a Greenspeed tandem
trike.  The ride started at 8am.  No wind, a few
clouds and cool temperature.  We'd left the lightning
and rain behind us in Tempe.

From the start it is about 8.3 miles of gentle climb
up SR387 and over the I-10 freeway.  I followed Tim
and we slowly worked our way from the back forward
through the pack.  This gave me a chance to become
comfortable with the new bike.

SR387 turns right just after crossing the freeway and
climbs 3.5 miles up a hill, then descends steeply for
about the same distance to meet SR87.

As we started up the hill, I was worried that the road
gearing wouldn't be low enough to do the climb, but I
never ran out of gears.  Several wedgies we had passed
on the flat shot by us at the beginning of the hill,
but we kept up our pace, and passed some of them
before the crest.  Near the top, I started pulling
away from Tim - his heart meds slow his climbing.  I
have done this hill several times, and the Saber
climbed better than my VR-45.

On the downhill, I soon ran out of gears, as the bike
was out of adjustment and I couldn't shift onto the
big ring.  I had to settle for coasting at 30 mph past
several riders.

A right onto SR87, then a flat run of 7 miles to
Arizona Blvd.  I made the turn and looked back to see
Tim approaching the turn about 1/8 of a mile behind.
I looked ahead and there were 3 mountain bike riders
about 1/4 mile ahead.  I kept the pace up and
gradually caught and passed them, then picked a new
group to catch, and so on.  The Saber wants to go
fast.

A right turn towards Coolidge on Arizona Blvd starts
the final dash of just over a mile to the finish. I
kept up the pace and passed 5 more before crossing the
finish line at the Casa Grand Ruins Visitor Center.  I
finished 6th in the 50yr old group - 20 minutes behind
first place and 4 minutes ahead of Tim, who placed
8th.  I averaged 18mph over the 23.5 miles, a personal
best.

I've said plenty of times that "It's the engine, not
the bike."  But the fact that I set a personal record
on the Saber, a bike I've never ridden before, makes
me wonder.  Perhaps the bike makes a bigger difference
than I thought.

I like the Saber, but at $3000 - the trade-in value of
my car - it is way overpriced.  The steering takes
some getting used to.  The bike is strongly affected
by crosswinds.  The handlebars are narrow, close to
your body, and have the drop shape like on a P-38.
Proper adjustment is critical to keep them clear of
your knees and chest.  The STI levers are neat, but I
think gripshift or rapid fire work faster and more
reliably.

Because of the 24" front wheel, you sit high off the
ground, like a Trek R-200, and it is not compatible
with short legs.  With the high bottom bracket, it is
a long way from the pedal to the ground.  This makes
it a good bike for long-distance speed, but less
suitable in town, at slow speed, in traffic.

Ride the Ruins is fun ride over a good course, and
don't forget the pancakes!  Hope to see more of you at
it next year.

tom adams




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I joined the group yesterday. I have a 20001 VR44.  I am now
upgrading to ride more comfortably. I have added the front fairing
along with the vision chain guard. I found that my pants were getting
dirt from the chain. I have about 3,000 miles on the bent. I ride the
Jersey shore in Monmouth County from Sandy Hook to Seagirt.

In a message dated 4/5/02 9:50:59 AM Central Standard Time,
starcher@... writes:

<< Anyone have a solution for the annoying squeaking sound the seat
  makes as you sit down and adjust?  Once seated it seems fine but it
  makes sense that you should be able to eliminate the stretch/squeak
  that happens upon sitting down or getting up.

  New VR40 SWB >>

My seat squeeks too!  But I like it.  It is the most comfortable seat I have
ever ridden.  I call it a "Rolling lawn chair"
    OLD VR-40 LWB

mark

visit Wood Art Custom Designs
http://woodartcustom.freeservers.com

or

http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html

Hand crafted items made to order!

Tom,

I too am 5'8", and wear 29" inseam pants.  I can sit with both feet
on the ground with cycling shoes and spd cleats.  I have the seat
slot in the back position.  You do ride high on a Saber.  The
benefits of this are: you can talk to DF riders easier; you can ride
in pace lines with DF riders.  The Saber may not be the bike to take
if you are out on a casual ride with the kids.  But, if you like to
pound hills, accelerate quickly and ride forever, give it a shot.

I rode a Bocchetta last year.  Similar style, the seat's a little
lower, the cranks a little higher.  I didn't like the seat position
and components as much as the Saber, but it was a nice bike. I think
it is due to come on the market this spring.


Rob

Hi -

I just purchased a used (1995 model) Vision R40.  I quickly learned
that the earlier year models such as mine come fitted with
TWO attach-points along the main tube for the chain's idler wheel
assembly, but that only the REAR attach-point actually has
a chain idler-assembly installed there!  (It makes me curious
why the newer model-years now install it in the front position!?)

So, (as someone else also replied), you could consider moving
your idler assembly to that aft position.  I'd bet that your
heel-strike problem would then disappear.

Hope this helps...

                      Dave
  [who just moved to the flat state of Florida and bought his
   first recumbent]


--- In vision-bent-owners@y..., "M. Chandler" <cyclist@d...> wrote:
> Before I bought my VR40, I remember seeing a posting from someone
> at Vision regarding the idler wheel spacers and the idler wheels
> hitting folks' heels, etc.  The recommendation was to trim the
spacers
> down so that the wheels would sit closer to the boom/frame.
>
> When I got my bike, I noticed that my heels would occasionally
strike
> the idler mounting bolt heads.  I also noticed that the chain would
> tend to rub/ride against the inner "flange" of the idlers instead of
> running closer to the middle.
>
> Last weekend, I removed the idler assemblies (only required two 11mm
> wrenches/sockets), and took a Dremel tool to the spacers.  The
spacers
> are aluminum covered with plastic tubing, so the Dremel cut through
them
> pretty easily.  Being the cautious type, I only took off approx
3/16"
> from both spacers.  I re-fitted the idlers, and went for a test
ride.
> My heels didn't rub the bolt heads and the chain now rides closer to
> the center of the idlers.
>
> Next on the tinker-list is to take a look at the bearings used in
the
> idlers.  They look to be the same size as those used in skateboards
> and rollerblades, so finding something better should be easy (I've
> heard great things about the bearings from
http://www.edsbearings.com/).
>
> OK, enough rambling from me... have a good weekend, everone.
>
> --mc
>
> --
> cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com
>
> http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

SaberRob said
>What are you riding while you're waiting for a Saber?

I ride an old VR-45.

Rob, How tall are you?  I'm 5'-8" and the original 24"
Saber is so high I can barely touch the ground.  The
new 650 Sabers are even worse.

I tried a Saber and felt so upright and high off the
ground that I thought I was riding a wedgie.  Can you
ride no-hands?

tom adams
phoenix



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Passing this along...

No affiliation with seller, etc.

--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 12:17:23 -0500
From: Lyz Filteau <lyz@...>
To: hpv-forsale@...
Subject: [hpv-forsale] Vision Metro (VR-30) 21 speed for sale (Canada)

This bike has less than 10 miles on it and has been sitting in my living
room for some time now. I bought the bike new in Victoria, BC with great
intentions of riding. I found very quickly that I do not have the stamina,
nor will I ever have the stamina to ride this or any bike. It is an
excellent bike and in perfect shape.



Compact, folding, rear-suspended 21-speed Sachs 3x7!
Featuring a suspension frame, this nimble about-town machine is easy and fun
to ride. The VR30 is available with a 21 speed Sachs 3x7 derailleur system.
An ideal "spur-of-the-moment" bike, the VR30 folds for easy storage in your
car, closet, or just about anywhere.


VR30 SPECS
2" TIG welded steel mainframe
"MMC" Suspension System, various elastomers available
Collapsible for transport or storage
Alloy 170mm crank w/52t ring
Shimano Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket
KMC UG50 Chain
Alloy front brake
1-1/8" threadless head set
Alloy front hub, quick release
Alloy rear rim 20" (406)
Alloy front rim, 16" (349)
29.5 pounds
21 speed
Sachs 3x7 internal hub
12-28 7speed cassette

I am do not want to ship this so if anyone is interested they would need to
come to see it. I live in Colborne, ON (1 1/2 hours east of Toronto and
several hours south west of Ottawa).

$1300.00 CAN or $850.00 US

Please contact me by email or phone:

lyz@...
Lyz 905-355-2629
Lyz Filteau
The luckiest person in the world.

__________________________________________________________
hpv-forsale mailing list  -  hpv-forsale@...
To unsubscribe or otherwise change your list preferences,
please visit http://www.ihpva.org/mailman/listinfo/hpv-forsale

Hi all,

I'm Chris.  I bought a used VR40 USS SWB last March.  Since then, I've put about
3000 miles on it (both "club" rides and touring).  Every Tuesday night during
DST, I lead a group of DF riders on a hilly ride, breaking the myth...

I've created a <lame> web page about my bike.  It can be found at:

http://www.geocities.com/cchampion0269

I generally read ARBR, which is where I learned of this mailing list.

Chris Champion
1996 ATP Vision VR40 USS SWB
Bent Since '01 (and never going back)

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .

I too, have trimmed my idler mounts.  But I also moved the front idler from its
initial forward position to a mounting braze-on wihch I found further aft.  No
more heel stike, even with my size 51 (metric) shoes.
Louis
R40 lwb/uss
Spring Hill, FL

   "M. Chandler" <cyclist@...> wrote: Before I bought my VR40, I
remember seeing a posting from someone
at Vision regarding the idler wheel spacers and the idler wheels
hitting folks' heels, etc. The recommendation was to trim the spacers
down so that the wheels would sit closer to the boom/frame.

When I got my bike, I noticed that my heels would occasionally strike
the idler mounting bolt heads. I also noticed that the chain would
tend to rub/ride against the inner "flange" of the idlers instead of
running closer to the middle.

Last weekend, I removed the idler assemblies (only required two 11mm
wrenches/sockets), and took a Dremel tool to the spacers. The spacers
are aluminum covered with plastic tubing, so the Dremel cut through them
pretty easily. Being the cautious type, I only took off approx 3/16"
from both spacers. I re-fitted the idlers, and went for a test ride.
My heels didn't rub the bolt heads and the chain now rides closer to
the center of the idlers.

Next on the tinker-list is to take a look at the bearings used in the
idlers. They look to be the same size as those used in skateboards
and rollerblades, so finding something better should be easy (I've
heard great things about the bearings from http://www.edsbearings.com/).

OK, enough rambling from me... have a good weekend, everone.

--mc

--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

M,
Maybe a squirt of silicone lube would help.
Louis

   "M. Chandler" <cyclist@...> wrote: On Fri, 5 Apr 2002,
starcherfamily wrote:

> Anyone have a solution for the annoying squeaking sound the seat
> makes as you sit down and adjust? Once seated it seems fine but it
> makes sense that you should be able to eliminate the stretch/squeak
> that happens upon sitting down or getting up.

Something I've been meaning to try is to dust the seat frame/rails
talcum powder. Another I've wanted to try is putting a layer of
matte finish electrical tape on the frame/rails. Don't know if it'll
work, but it might be worth a try.


--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/



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Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Before I bought my VR40, I remember seeing a posting from someone
at Vision regarding the idler wheel spacers and the idler wheels
hitting folks' heels, etc.  The recommendation was to trim the spacers
down so that the wheels would sit closer to the boom/frame.

When I got my bike, I noticed that my heels would occasionally strike
the idler mounting bolt heads.  I also noticed that the chain would
tend to rub/ride against the inner "flange" of the idlers instead of
running closer to the middle.

Last weekend, I removed the idler assemblies (only required two 11mm
wrenches/sockets), and took a Dremel tool to the spacers.  The spacers
are aluminum covered with plastic tubing, so the Dremel cut through them
pretty easily.  Being the cautious type, I only took off approx 3/16"
from both spacers.  I re-fitted the idlers, and went for a test ride.
My heels didn't rub the bolt heads and the chain now rides closer to
the center of the idlers.

Next on the tinker-list is to take a look at the bearings used in the
idlers.  They look to be the same size as those used in skateboards
and rollerblades, so finding something better should be easy (I've
heard great things about the bearings from http://www.edsbearings.com/).

OK, enough rambling from me... have a good weekend, everone.

--mc

--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

Starcherfamily,
My seat squeaks (actually it creaks) when while riding, but not always. I don't
know how to cure it.  I ignore it, but I've gotten complaints from riding
companions.
Louis
lwb/uss '01 R40
Spring Hill, FL

   starcherfamily <starcher@...> wrote: Anyone have a solution for the
annoying squeaking sound the seat
makes as you sit down and adjust? Once seated it seems fine but it
makes sense that you should be able to eliminate the stretch/squeak
that happens upon sitting down or getting up.

New VR40 SWB



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Fri, 5 Apr 2002, starcherfamily wrote:

> Anyone have a solution for the annoying squeaking sound the seat
> makes as you sit down and adjust?  Once seated it seems fine but it
> makes sense that you should be able to eliminate the stretch/squeak
> that happens upon sitting down or getting up.

Something I've been meaning to try is to dust the seat frame/rails
talcum powder.  Another I've wanted to try is putting a layer of
matte finish electrical tape on the frame/rails.  Don't know if it'll
work, but it might be worth a try.


--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

Anyone have a solution for the annoying squeaking sound the seat
makes as you sit down and adjust?  Once seated it seems fine but it
makes sense that you should be able to eliminate the stretch/squeak
that happens upon sitting down or getting up.

New VR40 SWB

J,

I have one of the original 2000 Sabers with the Ultegra group.  I
also like to ride 'ultra' distances, although I'm winding down a
little.  I love the Saber and particularly like the Ultegra
equipment as it is just that little bit smoother and has a nice soft
touch.  Ultegra is a road riding setup.  Most recumbents I have
ridden use components often found on mountain bikes, which work fine
but tend to be a little stiffer or grabbier.

I also retrofit my road wedgie with an Ultegra group a few years
ago.

The only issue I have had with the Ultegra equipment on the Saber is
installing the Flight Deck computer.  Unless Vision/Shimano have
changed this, the wires for the computer harness only permit the
installation of the harness on the steering tube, not on the
handlebars.  I prefer this anyway, but some people may find this a
limitation.

The Saber is a great bike for long distance rides.  I have done back
to back 150 mile days and felt great.  I hope to do some long rides
this summer, once the white stuff finally goes away.

What are you riding while you're waiting for a Saber?

Rob

Hi Yall,

I've been riding my Vision R-44 for 4 years, Double Vision for 1 1/2
yrs.  Love them both!  Nancy & I ride the DV 3 times a week (Houston,
Tx), then ride it on an 800 mile credit card tour each May/June in
the New England states.  Fabulous.

Has anyone figured out how to mount the wonderful Vision seat to an
old Infinity recumbent?

Thanks,

Ed Altemus

Great to be in this group. I have owned 2 VR 40s. Awaiting release of
new Sabre. Question please. Are Ultregra components worth the extra
money? Or is just more glitter and less weight. I ride ultra
distances rides of 200 - 300 miles plus. Need durable group. Thank
you. Tailwinds...JO

In a message dated 4/3/02 9:29:05 PM Central Standard Time,
old_biker@... writes:

<<  I will be happy to e-mail them to anyone interested.

  Happy to see a new group started.  >>
Me too!  I just aquired a Vision VR-40 a few weeks ago and have ridden it
about 100 miles so far.  My riding time is somewhat limited and even more so
with the crummy weather.  But i really enjoy the bike and have loved the ride
so far.  I also have several DF type bikes, or if you prefer, "wedgie" bikes
that Ienjoy and ride as well. To me, riding a bike makes you part of the
"brotherhood" and riding a racer, or a dirty, or BMX or a folder, or a single
speed balloon tired paperboy bike makes you one of US!
mark

visit Wood Art Custom Designs
http://woodartcustom.freeservers.com

or

http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html

Hand crafted items made to order!

On Wed, 3 Apr 2002, Allen Rosson wrote:

> This may make some people cringe, but the size problem was solved with a pipe
cutter.  The frame material is 1.75 outside diameter tube.  Wicks Aircraft was
nice enough to sell me some .065 wall 4130 tube that was just a little under
1.75 inside diameter.  With a little inside skin cut on the tube with a boring
bar it was a nice fit outside the cut ends of the frame.  A few minutes
sweat-brazing the tube to the frame, it is now 6.5 inches longer.  Now the seat
is approximately 1.5 inches from the front of the seat rail instead of wedged
against the back.  Front wheel loading is now adequate to steer and stop without
being so scary.  Right now it is just temporarily painted with spray can paint. 
Once I am certain of all modification It will probably get a powder coat job.  I
have JPG pictures of the modification.  I will be happy to e-mail them to anyone
interested.

Allen,

You and the other members of the group are encouraged to post photos at:

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vision-bent-owners/lst

--mc (working far too late...)

--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

old_biker@... is really Allen Rosson from Glendale, AZ.  I am 60 years old
and less than 3 months from retirement.

I started recumbent riding several years ago with a Rans Stratus.  I used it
primarily as my commuter riding 22 and a half miles each way, 2 or 3 times a
week. Except for a couple of times with health problems the commute was winter
and summer.  Temperature ranged from 28º F to 120º F.  (Don't start a commute
program in Arizona in the summer.  Start in winter and work up to it)  The
original Stratus had 15,500 miles when a lady in a Suburban and I tried to share
a crosswalk.  The Suburban won.  The Stratus was beyond even considering
repairing.  The Suburban driver replaced my Stratus, but I sold it with the
onset of another health problem and a good offer from someone wanting it.

I am currently the owner of a Vision R-30 I bought for my wife a couple of years
ago.  It has basically set in the garage since then.  Prior to that it lived on
the back of a motor  home until the cables were rusted solid into their jackets.
With some new cables and some lubrication it has turned out to be a pretty good
bike even though it is not very exciting.  Its new life is around the
neighborhood and occasional trips to the store pulling a trailer. It is not
suitable for the hard commute like the Stratus.

At almost 6' tall and significantly over 220 pounds, I am a little too big for
the R-30.  A wheelie could be accomplished with a hard pedal stroke. This told
me that there is not enough weight on the front wheel to do any good except
occasional steerage inputs.  I was almost afraid to touch the front brake.

This may make some people cringe, but the size problem was solved with a pipe
cutter.  The frame material is 1.75 outside diameter tube.  Wicks Aircraft was
nice enough to sell me some .065 wall 4130 tube that was just a little under
1.75 inside diameter.  With a little inside skin cut on the tube with a boring
bar it was a nice fit outside the cut ends of the frame.  A few minutes
sweat-brazing the tube to the frame, it is now 6.5 inches longer.  Now the seat
is approximately 1.5 inches from the front of the seat rail instead of wedged
against the back.  Front wheel loading is now adequate to steer and stop without
being so scary.  Right now it is just temporarily painted with spray can paint. 
Once I am certain of all modification It will probably get a powder coat job.  I
have JPG pictures of the modification.  I will be happy to e-mail them to anyone
interested.

Happy to see a new group started.

AKR




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's one of the posts from usenet regarding splicing
computer wires:

==========

From: Kent Peterson <peterson@...>
Newsgroups: alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent
Subject: Re: Hostelshoppe computer
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:34:20 -0800
NNTP-Posting-Date: 28 Jan 2002 17:34:22 GMT
In-Reply-To: <3z258.96197$6L5.15486366@...>

On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, JKeenan wrote:

> There have been many postings about "splicing"...suffice it to say that with
> the basic stranded wire, it's just like any other electrical splice... a bit
> of solder, some shrink tube.. and you're done.

But here's the datapoint most people miss: on some computers, like
Avocets, this is easy because it's a side-by-side dual cable like
speaker wire and it's easy; on others like Cateyes, it's a very fine
coaxial cable and it's a real bitch to splice.

I've spliced Avocet harnesses by the side of the road with a Leatherman
and had 'em work, but it practially takes a clean-room at a chip-fab plant
to make a Cateye splice that works.

Kent "Avocet 15s on all my bike" Peterson
Issaquah, WA USA

==========

--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, dmorellonh wrote:

> You are right. Computers do require more wire. While I am not a
> Vision owner I do own a Burley Canto. I am new to recumbents (started
> in Jan and have logged over 400 miles so far and loving it). I am a
> long time wedgie rider both road and off road. But back to the
> subject at hand. I did what some have told me is impossible. I
> spliced addition wire onto my computer and it works fine. I used wire
> from an old phone charger but any small gage wire will do. You just
> have to be careful not to cut through when you strip the wire. Of
> course if you're not handy or do not possess the tools then the
> Hostel web site has computers that you can order additonal wire for
> bents. Hope this helps.

I've heard/read that some computers are easier to modify/splice.  On
one of the rec.bicycles.* newsgroups someone posted that Avocet's
wires were particularly easy to splice into.  I don't have the post
handy, but I may dig it up.

The only non-wireless cyclo-computer that I have in my parts bin
is a Cat-Eye altimeter model.  The wire is *very* short, so I'm
tempted to try to modify it.

--
cyclist [at] dimensional [dot] com

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/

You are right. Computers do require more wire. While I am not a
Vision owner I do own a Burley Canto. I am new to recumbents (started
in Jan and have logged over 400 miles so far and loving it). I am a
long time wedgie rider both road and off road. But back to the
subject at hand. I did what some have told me is impossible. I
spliced addition wire onto my computer and it works fine. I used wire
from an old phone charger but any small gage wire will do. You just
have to be careful not to cut through when you strip the wire. Of
course if you're not handy or do not possess the tools then the
Hostel web site has computers that you can order additonal wire for
bents. Hope this helps.


--- In vision-bent-owners@y..., "Glen Corlin" <corling001@h...> wrote:
> I found cyclometers somewhat difficult. You need much more wire
length than
> on a wedgie. I tried a wireless, but the distance from transceiver
to
> receiver was too far. Also, I started on OSS, but have found USS to
be much
> more comfortable over the long haul. On a long ride, on a long
length of
> clear rode with nice scenery, there is nothing in front of you and
it's like
> riding a chaise lounge through the scenery.
>
> LMO
> Save the Whales...
> Collect the Whole Set!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M. Chandler" <cyclist@d...>
> To: <vision-bent-owners@y...>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 6:56 PM
> Subject: [VBO] Intro
>
>
> > I switched to bents this past summer when I got fed up with back
pains
> > whenever I rode my uprights.  I looked at/test-rode bikes for a
couple
> > of months and bought a 2001 VR40 with OSS (but I still have the
USS
> > assembly).
> >
> > Additions/modifications to my bike include:
> >
> > * Changed stock crank to Deore XT (170mm) with 24/36/46 rings
> > * Changed stock cassette to Deore XT 11-34t
> > * Changed stock pedals to Speedplay Frogs
> > * Added Minoura SpaceGrip, Vision fenders, WaterBack, and
SeatBack bag
> >
> > Other things I'm considering are a chain tube and a cyclometer.
I've
> > always had a cyclometer on my uprights, but I enjoy riding my
Vision so
> > much that I really don't care how far/fast I'm riding.
> >
> > This summer my wife and I will be riding the Colorado MS150
charity ride
> > (me on my VR40 and she on her RANS Stratus).
> >
> > --mc
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > vision-bent-owners-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >

Here's a picture of a chain slap protector that I made from a plastic
catsup bottle (the kind you'd find at a picnic or fast-food place):

http://dimensional.com/~cyclist/gears/P2100003.JPG

(Note: it's a big image--approx 400k--and may be slow to load).

Cost all of $2 to make (I still have the unused yellow mustard bottle
that came with the catsup bottle), and took maybe 15 minutes to cut
and install.  Works really well at keeping the chain from chewing up
the paint on the chainstay and main frame junction.

I found cyclometers somewhat difficult. You need much more wire length than
on a wedgie. I tried a wireless, but the distance from transceiver to
receiver was too far. Also, I started on OSS, but have found USS to be much
more comfortable over the long haul. On a long ride, on a long length of
clear rode with nice scenery, there is nothing in front of you and it's like
riding a chaise lounge through the scenery.

LMO
Save the Whales...
Collect the Whole Set!


----- Original Message -----
From: "M. Chandler" <cyclist@...>
To: <vision-bent-owners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 6:56 PM
Subject: [VBO] Intro


> I switched to bents this past summer when I got fed up with back pains
> whenever I rode my uprights.  I looked at/test-rode bikes for a couple
> of months and bought a 2001 VR40 with OSS (but I still have the USS
> assembly).
>
> Additions/modifications to my bike include:
>
> * Changed stock crank to Deore XT (170mm) with 24/36/46 rings
> * Changed stock cassette to Deore XT 11-34t
> * Changed stock pedals to Speedplay Frogs
> * Added Minoura SpaceGrip, Vision fenders, WaterBack, and SeatBack bag
>
> Other things I'm considering are a chain tube and a cyclometer.  I've
> always had a cyclometer on my uprights, but I enjoy riding my Vision so
> much that I really don't care how far/fast I'm riding.
>
> This summer my wife and I will be riding the Colorado MS150 charity ride
> (me on my VR40 and she on her RANS Stratus).
>
> --mc
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vision-bent-owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

I switched to bents this past summer when I got fed up with back pains
whenever I rode my uprights.  I looked at/test-rode bikes for a couple
of months and bought a 2001 VR40 with OSS (but I still have the USS
assembly).

Additions/modifications to my bike include:

* Changed stock crank to Deore XT (170mm) with 24/36/46 rings
* Changed stock cassette to Deore XT 11-34t
* Changed stock pedals to Speedplay Frogs
* Added Minoura SpaceGrip, Vision fenders, WaterBack, and SeatBack bag

Other things I'm considering are a chain tube and a cyclometer.  I've
always had a cyclometer on my uprights, but I enjoy riding my Vision so
much that I really don't care how far/fast I'm riding.

This summer my wife and I will be riding the Colorado MS150 charity ride
(me on my VR40 and she on her RANS Stratus).

--mc

Aloha all. Hope this group goes well. I have 2 Visions. An older,
suspended R40, and an R82 Double Vision. Love them both, but only a
few bents over here (Oahu). Riding here can be hazardous, but some
nice scenery.