Randy
I change the engine oil and filter twice a year April and Nov.
One 4 L Transaxle Fluid bottle cost 10.00 at Wall-Mart.
I am there already , open the plug for the transaxle , drain 4 L. that's all it
does, and close the plug., and refill 4 L. check level . Keeps things clean . Is
there any harm in overdoing it.?
This procedure beats ( or better than ) any additive you might think putting
into the transmission fluid.

Vitally


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: RP
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 9:15 AM
   Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Hard 1-2 Shifts


   Vitally:

       That would depend on how often you change your oil, I like to change every
2k to 3k if running regular oil and every 5k on synthetic. That makes for quite
a bit of transmission fluid changing in a year of normal driving.

        I have found over the years even with my F250 tow truck that a full fluid
and filter change every 25,000 miles will keep most any automatic transmission
in good shape.

       On the V/Q some have said that with the screen type filter it would not
need changed unless you see allot of trash in the pan or filter.

   Randy
   96' Villager GS 192,000+
   99' Villager Estate 62,000+
   97' GS (Wrecked)


     ----- Original Message -----
     From: Vitally
     To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
     Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:14 PM
     Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Hard 1-2 Shifts


     I recommend a 4 L. trany oil replacement every engine oil change.
     Vitally


       ----- Original Message -----
       From: vtcress
       To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
       Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:22 PM
       Subject: [villagerquest] Hard 1-2 Shifts


       I just created a document on the hard 1-2 shifts. If you all have anything
to add or change let me know, especially Gerry or Randy or Vitally.
       charlie


   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   ------------------------------------

   Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's how Homee rolls
 
Off to AZ for the 36 mm socket and breaker bar
 
Hit the jyd and pull a few hubs for $8 each off C4C VQ's
 
Install until I get a goodie, rtrn the others
 
Tools back to AZ and get my deposit back
 
That's how Homee rolls

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, Gerry <gbissi@...> wrote:


From: Gerry <gbissi@...>
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] 2001 Villager Humming Noise
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Cc: dancadigan@...
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 9:11 AM


 



Dan,
 
Ford stopped servicing the bearing at some point. Aftermarket may have it still
have it.  If you buy a hb assembly on ebay, make sure it incudes the bearing.
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
 

Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs — Rear

1993 Villager Workshop Manual
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

Hub/Bearing Assembly
 
Disassembly
Tool Required:

Bearing Cup Replacer T77F-1202-A

Remove the hub/bearing assembly. Refer to the procedure in this section.

Remove the snap ring from the hub/bearing assembly.

Use a press and Bearing Cup Replacer T77F-1202-A to press the bearing from the
hub.

 
Assembly
Tools Required:

Dust Shield Replacer T87C-1175-B
Pinion Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-E

Use a press and Dust Shield Replacer T87C-1175-B to press the bearing into the
hub with Pinion Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-E.

Install the snap ring in the hub/bearing assembly.

Install the hub/bearing assembly. Refer to the procedure in this section.
 
 

Gerry

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, dancadigan <dancadigan@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: dancadigan <dancadigan@yahoo. com>
Subject: [villagerquest] 2001 Villager Humming Noise
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 4:45 AM

 

I am convinced that the hum noise is coming from the drivers side rear wheel
bearing

When I spin each wheel free, only the drivers side rear sounds like snap,
crackle and pop

What does it take to change the rear wheel bearing ?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'll have to check the parts catalog for application.

Gerry

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, Treece, Jeff <jtreece@...> wrote:


From: Treece, Jeff <jtreece@...>
Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
To: "'villagerquest@yahoogroups.com'" <villagerquest@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 11:01 PM


 



Hi Gerry,

The E-bay listing says " 93-98 ". Same for 2002 ??? From what I saw while
peering into
the door frame, it looks very similar if not exactly the same.

Found a " DORMAN " brand for about $ 77.00 on a google search:
http://www.partsgee k.com/mmparts/ window_regulator /nissan/quest. html

Any ideas if it's about the same ? Dorman a somewhat of a "brand" name & better
to use ?

Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington

____________ _________ _________ __
From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of gbissi
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 2:03 PM
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window

Heres' the item number on ebay. 6 available. regulator w/motor, $56.00
Aftermarket.

Item number: 330303147289

gerry

--- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>, "gbissi" <gbissi@...> wrote:
>
> I have to take back what I just said. The regulator for Villager comes w/o the
motor, $100. The motor is $232. Tascafordparts. com gives discount on these
prices.
>
> Gerry
>
> --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>, "gbissi" <gbissi@> wrote:
> >
> > The motor can be purchased by itself. But if you need a regulator, it has to
come with the motor on it. If not, the cable will be a mess. It needs the motor
to keep everything in place.
> > I saw a new driver side regulator on ebay. Iwould go to a pick n pull and
get a used one myself. They guarantee them.
> >
> >
> > gerry
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Gerry, Randy & Group,
> > >
> > > Napa has just a " Reman " driver's side window motor for: $ 151.00 ( no
regulator available from Napa).
> > >
> > > Any idea if there's a motor with an " attached " regulator already as some
kinda assembly ?
> > >
> > > I still like Vitally's idea of the complete door, as a replacement.
Helpful I guess if I could find one
> > > in the same Beige color as the 2002 Quest and just change the whole door??
> > >
> > > Any thoughts out there ? Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > >
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com> [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com>] On Behalf Of Gerry
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:52 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 99-02
> > >
> > > Gerry
> > >
> > > --- On Fri, 12/4/09, Vitally <alcher@<mailto: alcher%40rogers. com>>
wrote:
> > >
> > > From: Vitally <alcher@<mailto: alcher%40rogers. com>>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 10:32 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > That is a question for Gerry .
> > >
> > > Vitally
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Treece, Jeff
> > > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com'
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:24 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > HI Vitally....Do you know what other years fit my 2002 Quest ?
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerque st@ yahoogroups.
com] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:03 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > If you don't pick it up today ,,, by tomorrow ( figure of speech ) it will
be in the "crusher" and sent to the smelter, pronto.
> > > The whole van, engine and all.
> > > Vitally
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Treece, Jeff
> > > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:% 27villager quest%40yahoogro
ups.com>'
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:31 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > Hi Vitally..... Is $ 40.00 a realistic dollar amount for a complete
driver's side door(glass & all ? ).
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que st%40yahoogroups
.com> [mailto:villagerque st@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que
st%40yahoogroups .com>] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:23 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que st%40yahoogroups
.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > Hi Jeff
> > >
> > > Go to the wrecker and take the whole driver side door to your home.
> > > Than slowly " dissect" the door to it's parts , reverse technology.
> > > Then replace bad parts you have with good parts in the door. Offer 40.00
for the whole door and all its parts.
> > > Locks, motors, glass, trim, fasteners, cabling, switches, control arms ,
rubber seals around door , did I say side heated mirror ?
> > > Vitally
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: gbissi
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:46 PM
> > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > It looks like the motor and regulator are serviceable separately. The
motor new is (sit down first) $232.00. The catalog says it fits 1997-02. Not
sure 97-98 are really the same since freshening happened in 1999. And left hand
& right hand are different parts.
> > >
> > > I would go to a pick n pull and buy the regulator and motor aas an
assembly just in case you have binding going on in the regulator. You can go to
car-part.com and look on the page with the * for the lowest priced part.
> > >
> > > ebay has one for sale too. Item number: 330303147289. Aftermarket 93-98.
> > >
> > > Gerry
> > >
> > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece,
Jeff" <jtreece@ > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Date: 12.04.09
> > > >
> > > > Hello Gerry & Group,
> > > >
> > > > Partial..... .Good News. Got home last night, took of the driver's door
panel. Found the passenger's
> > > > Window still working on the control circuit just fine / No activity from
the button for the Driver's side.
> > > >
> > > > Found the window completely bottomed out, but still sitting nicely in
the left & right window channel
> > > > with lots of lubrication for possible movement.
> > > >
> > > > Initially, the window would not budge upward with any type of pressure.
Even tried a screwdriver to
> > > > wedge up the window guide from the middle. So.....I took a hold of the
bottom of the window on both sides ( inside the door frame ) and forcefully
tried ramming it upward. It would only move about an
> > > > inch when I first started this. However, after about the 10th upward
pulls ....something came loose and
> > > > the window then moved upward about 3 or 4 inches. I turned on the key
and the motor then activated
> > > > to move upward, but only about 2 inches and then went DEAD again. I
continued with the forcing by
> > > > hand....and then tried the motor again. The motor came on again for
another 2 inches upward travel, but
> > > > then went dead again. I did this about 5 or 6 times. I got the window
back to the fully UP position and
> > > > left it that way so my wife can drive the car.
> > > >
> > > > Gerry....from your info below - I see there's only ONE relay that
controls power for both the driver's
> > > > & passengers windows ?
> > > >
> > > > Does this sound like a bad motor to you guys then ??
> > > >
> > > > If so......Do we have a procedure for replacing the motor ? The motor
looks like I can work my way thru
> > > > pulling out - But it's the cabling / sprocket with cables that I am
unsure about ?
> > > >
> > > > Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > > >
> > > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
[mailto:villagerque st@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>] On Behalf Of gbissi
> > > > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:24 PM
> > > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Jeff,
> > > >
> > > > Ford sells Mini-Vent lube that is in a small bottle and is thick
silicone oil. It works well for the glass runs. Can you hear the motor run? Does
it try to go up or down? Does the passenger window operate?
> > > >
> > > > It could be the relay. here's some info:
> > > > Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
> > > > F30 (10A)
> > > > F32 (20A)
> > > > F34 (20A)
> > > > F59 (7.5A)
> > > > Battery junction box (BJB) Fuses:
> > > > F20 (30A)
> > > > F27 (45A)
> > > > Switches
> > > > Circuits
> > > > Connectors
> > > > Heated back light
> > > > Relays
> > > > Power window relay - left side of dash panel
> > > >
> > > > Principles of Operation
> > > >
> > > > The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module).
Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door
lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer
module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module
will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain
energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is
opened.
> > > >
> > > > The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > > >
> > > > The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and
the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch
when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The
SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position
and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or
passenger door is opened.
> > > >
> > > > The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which
is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > > >
> > > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villager que
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com><mailto:
villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Date: 12.03.09
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Group,
> > > > >
> > > > > 2002 Quest driver's side window has been going up/down slowly with
some drag for awhile now.
> > > > > we have tried to baby-it..... by helping the up travel & pulling it
back up along with the motor pushing, but
> > > > > it has been slow.
> > > > >
> > > > > Long story short - The wife says she pushed the Express / Down button
and it won't go up at all now.
> > > > > Apparently no UP action when pushing the button now.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have had the door panel off once before and lubed up the side tracks
with silicone spray and that was
> > > > > a couple of years ago. It seemed to work back to normal, after that
service.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas for this current issue ? Tks Again, Jeffrie / Camas,
Washington
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Gerry,

The E-bay listing says " 93-98 ".  Same for 2002 ???  From what I saw while
peering into
the door frame, it looks very similar if not exactly the same.

Found a " DORMAN " brand for about $ 77.00  on a google search:
   http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/window_regulator/nissan/quest.html

Any ideas if it's about the same ?  Dorman a somewhat of a "brand" name & better
to use ?

Tks,  Jeffrie / Camas, Washington

________________________________
From: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com [mailto:villagerquest@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gbissi
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 2:03 PM
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window



Heres' the item number on ebay. 6 available. regulator w/motor, $56.00
Aftermarket.

Item number: 330303147289

gerry

--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>,
"gbissi" <gbissi@...> wrote:
>
> I have to take back what I just said. The regulator for Villager comes w/o the
motor, $100. The motor is $232. Tascafordparts.com gives discount on these
prices.
>
> Gerry
>
> --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>,
"gbissi" <gbissi@> wrote:
> >
> > The motor can be purchased by itself. But if you need a regulator, it has to
come with the motor on it. If not, the cable will be a mess. It needs the motor
to keep everything in place.
> > I saw a new driver side regulator on ebay. Iwould go to a pick n pull and
get a used one myself. They guarantee them.
> >
> >
> > gerry
> >
> > --- In
villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>, "Treece,
Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Gerry, Randy & Group,
> > >
> > > Napa has just a " Reman " driver's side window motor for: $ 151.00 ( no
regulator available from Napa).
> > >
> > > Any idea if there's a motor with an " attached " regulator already as some
kinda assembly ?
> > >
> > > I still like Vitally's idea of the complete door, as a replacement.
Helpful I guess if I could find one
> > > in the same Beige color as the 2002 Quest and just change the whole door??
> > >
> > > Any thoughts out there ? Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From:
villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>]
On Behalf Of Gerry
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:52 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 99-02
> > >
> > > Gerry
> > >
> > > --- On Fri, 12/4/09, Vitally <alcher@<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > From: Vitally <alcher@<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > > To:
villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:vil\
lagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 10:32 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > That is a question for Gerry .
> > >
> > > Vitally
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Treece, Jeff
> > > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com'
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:24 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > HI Vitally....Do you know what other years fit my 2002 Quest ?
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups.
com] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:03 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > If you don't pick it up today ,,, by tomorrow ( figure of speech ) it will
be in the "crusher" and sent to the smelter, pronto.
> > > The whole van, engine and all.
> > > Vitally
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Treece, Jeff
> > > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:%27villager quest%40yahoogro
ups.com>'
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:31 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > Hi Vitally..... Is $ 40.00 a realistic dollar amount for a complete
driver's side door(glass & all ? ).
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com> [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com>] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:23 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > Hi Jeff
> > >
> > > Go to the wrecker and take the whole driver side door to your home.
> > > Than slowly " dissect" the door to it's parts , reverse technology.
> > > Then replace bad parts you have with good parts in the door. Offer 40.00
for the whole door and all its parts.
> > > Locks, motors, glass, trim, fasteners, cabling, switches, control arms ,
rubber seals around door , did I say side heated mirror ?
> > > Vitally
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: gbissi
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:46 PM
> > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > It looks like the motor and regulator are serviceable separately. The
motor new is (sit down first) $232.00. The catalog says it fits 1997-02. Not
sure 97-98 are really the same since freshening happened in 1999. And left hand
& right hand are different parts.
> > >
> > > I would go to a pick n pull and buy the regulator and motor aas an
assembly just in case you have binding going on in the regulator. You can go to
car-part.com and look on the page with the * for the lowest priced part.
> > >
> > > ebay has one for sale too. Item number: 330303147289. Aftermarket 93-98.
> > >
> > > Gerry
> > >
> > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@ >
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Date: 12.04.09
> > > >
> > > > Hello Gerry & Group,
> > > >
> > > > Partial..... .Good News. Got home last night, took of the driver's door
panel. Found the passenger's
> > > > Window still working on the control circuit just fine / No activity from
the button for the Driver's side.
> > > >
> > > > Found the window completely bottomed out, but still sitting nicely in
the left & right window channel
> > > > with lots of lubrication for possible movement.
> > > >
> > > > Initially, the window would not budge upward with any type of pressure.
Even tried a screwdriver to
> > > > wedge up the window guide from the middle. So.....I took a hold of the
bottom of the window on both sides ( inside the door frame ) and forcefully
tried ramming it upward. It would only move about an
> > > > inch when I first started this. However, after about the 10th upward
pulls ....something came loose and
> > > > the window then moved upward about 3 or 4 inches. I turned on the key
and the motor then activated
> > > > to move upward, but only about 2 inches and then went DEAD again. I
continued with the forcing by
> > > > hand....and then tried the motor again. The motor came on again for
another 2 inches upward travel, but
> > > > then went dead again. I did this about 5 or 6 times. I got the window
back to the fully UP position and
> > > > left it that way so my wife can drive the car.
> > > >
> > > > Gerry....from your info below - I see there's only ONE relay that
controls power for both the driver's
> > > > & passengers windows ?
> > > >
> > > > Does this sound like a bad motor to you guys then ??
> > > >
> > > > If so......Do we have a procedure for replacing the motor ? The motor
looks like I can work my way thru
> > > > pulling out - But it's the cabling / sprocket with cables that I am
unsure about ?
> > > >
> > > > Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > > >
> > > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
[mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>] On Behalf Of gbissi
> > > > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:24 PM
> > > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Jeff,
> > > >
> > > > Ford sells Mini-Vent lube that is in a small bottle and is thick
silicone oil. It works well for the glass runs. Can you hear the motor run? Does
it try to go up or down? Does the passenger window operate?
> > > >
> > > > It could be the relay. here's some info:
> > > > Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
> > > > F30 (10A)
> > > > F32 (20A)
> > > > F34 (20A)
> > > > F59 (7.5A)
> > > > Battery junction box (BJB) Fuses:
> > > > F20 (30A)
> > > > F27 (45A)
> > > > Switches
> > > > Circuits
> > > > Connectors
> > > > Heated back light
> > > > Relays
> > > > Power window relay - left side of dash panel
> > > >
> > > > Principles of Operation
> > > >
> > > > The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module).
Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door
lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer
module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module
will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain
energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is
opened.
> > > >
> > > > The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > > >
> > > > The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and
the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch
when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The
SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position
and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or
passenger door is opened.
> > > >
> > > > The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which
is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > > >
> > > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com><mailto:
villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Date: 12.03.09
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Group,
> > > > >
> > > > > 2002 Quest driver's side window has been going up/down slowly with
some drag for awhile now.
> > > > > we have tried to baby-it..... by helping the up travel & pulling it
back up along with the motor pushing, but
> > > > > it has been slow.
> > > > >
> > > > > Long story short - The wife says she pushed the Express / Down button
and it won't go up at all now.
> > > > > Apparently no UP action when pushing the button now.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have had the door panel off once before and lubed up the side tracks
with silicone spray and that was
> > > > > a couple of years ago. It seemed to work back to normal, after that
service.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas for this current issue ? Tks Again, Jeffrie / Camas,
Washington
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Heres' the item number on ebay. 6 available. regulator w/motor, $56.00
Aftermarket.

Item number: 330303147289

gerry

--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "gbissi" <gbissi@...> wrote:
>
> I have to take back what I just said. The regulator for Villager comes w/o the
motor, $100.  The motor is $232. Tascafordparts.com gives discount on these
prices.
>
> Gerry
>
> --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "gbissi" <gbissi@> wrote:
> >
> > The motor can be purchased by itself.  But if you need a regulator, it has
to come with the motor on it.  If not, the cable will be a mess. It needs the
motor to keep everything in place.
> > I saw a new driver side regulator on ebay.  Iwould go to a pick n pull and
get a used one myself.  They guarantee them.
> >
> >
> > gerry
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Gerry, Randy & Group,
> > >
> > > Napa has just a " Reman " driver's side window motor for: $ 151.00  ( no
regulator available from Napa).
> > >
> > > Any idea if there's a motor with an " attached " regulator already as some
kinda assembly ?
> > >
> > > I still like Vitally's idea of the complete door, as a replacement.
Helpful I guess if I could find one
> > > in the same Beige color as the 2002 Quest and just change the whole door??
> > >
> > > Any thoughts out there ?  Tks,  Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com [mailto:villagerquest@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerry
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:52 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 99-02
> > >
> > > Gerry
> > >
> > > --- On Fri, 12/4/09, Vitally <alcher@<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > From: Vitally <alcher@<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > > To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 10:32 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > That is a question for Gerry .
> > >
> > > Vitally
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Treece, Jeff
> > > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com'
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:24 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > HI Vitally....Do you know what other years fit my 2002 Quest ?
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups.
com] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:03 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > If you don't pick it up today ,,, by tomorrow ( figure of speech ) it will
be in the "crusher" and sent to the smelter, pronto.
> > > The whole van, engine and all.
> > > Vitally
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Treece, Jeff
> > > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:%27villager quest%40yahoogro
ups.com>'
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:31 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > Hi Vitally..... Is $ 40.00 a realistic dollar amount for a complete
driver's side door(glass & all ? ).
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com> [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com>] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:23 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > Hi Jeff
> > >
> > > Go to the wrecker and take the whole driver side door to your home.
> > > Than slowly " dissect" the door to it's parts , reverse technology.
> > > Then replace bad parts you have with good parts in the door. Offer 40.00
for the whole door and all its parts.
> > > Locks, motors, glass, trim, fasteners, cabling, switches, control arms ,
rubber seals around door , did I say side heated mirror ?
> > > Vitally
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: gbissi
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:46 PM
> > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > > It looks like the motor and regulator are serviceable separately. The
motor new is (sit down first) $232.00. The catalog says it fits 1997-02. Not
sure 97-98 are really the same since freshening happened in 1999. And left hand
& right hand are different parts.
> > >
> > > I would go to a pick n pull and buy the regulator and motor aas an
assembly just in case you have binding going on in the regulator. You can go to
car-part.com and look on the page with the * for the lowest priced part.
> > >
> > > ebay has one for sale too. Item number: 330303147289. Aftermarket 93-98.
> > >
> > > Gerry
> > >
> > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@ >
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Date: 12.04.09
> > > >
> > > > Hello Gerry & Group,
> > > >
> > > > Partial..... .Good News. Got home last night, took of the driver's door
panel. Found the passenger's
> > > > Window still working on the control circuit just fine / No activity from
the button for the Driver's side.
> > > >
> > > > Found the window completely bottomed out, but still sitting nicely in
the left & right window channel
> > > > with lots of lubrication for possible movement.
> > > >
> > > > Initially, the window would not budge upward with any type of pressure.
Even tried a screwdriver to
> > > > wedge up the window guide from the middle. So.....I took a hold of the
bottom of the window on both sides ( inside the door frame ) and forcefully
tried ramming it upward. It would only move about an
> > > > inch when I first started this. However, after about the 10th upward
pulls ....something came loose and
> > > > the window then moved upward about 3 or 4 inches. I turned on the key
and the motor then activated
> > > > to move upward, but only about 2 inches and then went DEAD again. I
continued with the forcing by
> > > > hand....and then tried the motor again. The motor came on again for
another 2 inches upward travel, but
> > > > then went dead again. I did this about 5 or 6 times. I got the window
back to the fully UP position and
> > > > left it that way so my wife can drive the car.
> > > >
> > > > Gerry....from your info below - I see there's only ONE relay that
controls power for both the driver's
> > > > & passengers windows ?
> > > >
> > > > Does this sound like a bad motor to you guys then ??
> > > >
> > > > If so......Do we have a procedure for replacing the motor ? The motor
looks like I can work my way thru
> > > > pulling out - But it's the cabling / sprocket with cables that I am
unsure about ?
> > > >
> > > > Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > > >
> > > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
[mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>] On Behalf Of gbissi
> > > > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:24 PM
> > > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Jeff,
> > > >
> > > > Ford sells Mini-Vent lube that is in a small bottle and is thick
silicone oil. It works well for the glass runs. Can you hear the motor run? Does
it try to go up or down? Does the passenger window operate?
> > > >
> > > > It could be the relay. here's some info:
> > > > Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
> > > > F30 (10A)
> > > > F32 (20A)
> > > > F34 (20A)
> > > > F59 (7.5A)
> > > > Battery junction box (BJB) Fuses:
> > > > F20 (30A)
> > > > F27 (45A)
> > > > Switches
> > > > Circuits
> > > > Connectors
> > > > Heated back light
> > > > Relays
> > > > Power window relay - left side of dash panel
> > > >
> > > > Principles of Operation
> > > >
> > > > The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module).
Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door
lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer
module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module
will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain
energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is
opened.
> > > >
> > > > The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > > >
> > > > The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and
the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch
when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The
SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position
and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or
passenger door is opened.
> > > >
> > > > The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which
is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > > >
> > > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com><mailto:
villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Date: 12.03.09
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Group,
> > > > >
> > > > > 2002 Quest driver's side window has been going up/down slowly with
some drag for awhile now.
> > > > > we have tried to baby-it..... by helping the up travel & pulling it
back up along with the motor pushing, but
> > > > > it has been slow.
> > > > >
> > > > > Long story short - The wife says she pushed the Express / Down button
and it won't go up at all now.
> > > > > Apparently no UP action when pushing the button now.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have had the door panel off once before and lubed up the side tracks
with silicone spray and that was
> > > > > a couple of years ago. It seemed to work back to normal, after that
service.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas for this current issue ? Tks Again, Jeffrie / Camas,
Washington
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

I have to take back what I just said. The regulator for Villager comes w/o the
motor, $100.  The motor is $232. Tascafordparts.com gives discount on these
prices.

Gerry

--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "gbissi" <gbissi@...> wrote:
>
> The motor can be purchased by itself.  But if you need a regulator, it has to
come with the motor on it.  If not, the cable will be a mess. It needs the motor
to keep everything in place.
> I saw a new driver side regulator on ebay.  Iwould go to a pick n pull and get
a used one myself.  They guarantee them.
>
>
> gerry
>
> --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Gerry, Randy & Group,
> >
> > Napa has just a " Reman " driver's side window motor for: $ 151.00  ( no
regulator available from Napa).
> >
> > Any idea if there's a motor with an " attached " regulator already as some
kinda assembly ?
> >
> > I still like Vitally's idea of the complete door, as a replacement. Helpful
I guess if I could find one
> > in the same Beige color as the 2002 Quest and just change the whole door??
> >
> > Any thoughts out there ?  Tks,  Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com [mailto:villagerquest@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerry
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:52 PM
> > To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> >
> >
> > 99-02
> >
> > Gerry
> >
> > --- On Fri, 12/4/09, Vitally <alcher@<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>> wrote:
> >
> > From: Vitally <alcher@<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>>
> > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 10:32 PM
> >
> >
> >
> > That is a question for Gerry .
> >
> > Vitally
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Treece, Jeff
> > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com'
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:24 PM
> > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> > HI Vitally....Do you know what other years fit my 2002 Quest ?
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups.
com] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:03 PM
> > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> > If you don't pick it up today ,,, by tomorrow ( figure of speech ) it will
be in the "crusher" and sent to the smelter, pronto.
> > The whole van, engine and all.
> > Vitally
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Treece, Jeff
> > To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:%27villager quest%40yahoogro
ups.com>'
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:31 PM
> > Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> > Hi Vitally..... Is $ 40.00 a realistic dollar amount for a complete driver's
side door(glass & all ? ).
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com> [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com>] On Behalf Of Vitally
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:23 PM
> > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>
> > Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> > Hi Jeff
> >
> > Go to the wrecker and take the whole driver side door to your home.
> > Than slowly " dissect" the door to it's parts , reverse technology.
> > Then replace bad parts you have with good parts in the door. Offer 40.00 for
the whole door and all its parts.
> > Locks, motors, glass, trim, fasteners, cabling, switches, control arms ,
rubber seals around door , did I say side heated mirror ?
> > Vitally
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: gbissi
> > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:46 PM
> > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> > It looks like the motor and regulator are serviceable separately. The motor
new is (sit down first) $232.00. The catalog says it fits 1997-02. Not sure
97-98 are really the same since freshening happened in 1999. And left hand &
right hand are different parts.
> >
> > I would go to a pick n pull and buy the regulator and motor aas an assembly
just in case you have binding going on in the regulator. You can go to
car-part.com and look on the page with the * for the lowest priced part.
> >
> > ebay has one for sale too. Item number: 330303147289. Aftermarket 93-98.
> >
> > Gerry
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@ >
wrote:
> > >
> > > Date: 12.04.09
> > >
> > > Hello Gerry & Group,
> > >
> > > Partial..... .Good News. Got home last night, took of the driver's door
panel. Found the passenger's
> > > Window still working on the control circuit just fine / No activity from
the button for the Driver's side.
> > >
> > > Found the window completely bottomed out, but still sitting nicely in the
left & right window channel
> > > with lots of lubrication for possible movement.
> > >
> > > Initially, the window would not budge upward with any type of pressure.
Even tried a screwdriver to
> > > wedge up the window guide from the middle. So.....I took a hold of the
bottom of the window on both sides ( inside the door frame ) and forcefully
tried ramming it upward. It would only move about an
> > > inch when I first started this. However, after about the 10th upward pulls
....something came loose and
> > > the window then moved upward about 3 or 4 inches. I turned on the key and
the motor then activated
> > > to move upward, but only about 2 inches and then went DEAD again. I
continued with the forcing by
> > > hand....and then tried the motor again. The motor came on again for
another 2 inches upward travel, but
> > > then went dead again. I did this about 5 or 6 times. I got the window back
to the fully UP position and
> > > left it that way so my wife can drive the car.
> > >
> > > Gerry....from your info below - I see there's only ONE relay that controls
power for both the driver's
> > > & passengers windows ?
> > >
> > > Does this sound like a bad motor to you guys then ??
> > >
> > > If so......Do we have a procedure for replacing the motor ? The motor
looks like I can work my way thru
> > > pulling out - But it's the cabling / sprocket with cables that I am unsure
about ?
> > >
> > > Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com> [mailto:villagerquest@
yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto:
villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>] On Behalf Of gbissi
> > > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:24 PM
> > > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Jeff,
> > >
> > > Ford sells Mini-Vent lube that is in a small bottle and is thick silicone
oil. It works well for the glass runs. Can you hear the motor run? Does it try
to go up or down? Does the passenger window operate?
> > >
> > > It could be the relay. here's some info:
> > > Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
> > > F30 (10A)
> > > F32 (20A)
> > > F34 (20A)
> > > F59 (7.5A)
> > > Battery junction box (BJB) Fuses:
> > > F20 (30A)
> > > F27 (45A)
> > > Switches
> > > Circuits
> > > Connectors
> > > Heated back light
> > > Relays
> > > Power window relay - left side of dash panel
> > >
> > > Principles of Operation
> > >
> > > The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module).
Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door
lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer
module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module
will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain
energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is
opened.
> > >
> > > The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > >
> > > The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and
the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch
when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The
SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position
and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or
passenger door is opened.
> > >
> > > The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> > >
> > > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com><mailto: villagerquest%
40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Date: 12.03.09
> > > >
> > > > Hello Group,
> > > >
> > > > 2002 Quest driver's side window has been going up/down slowly with some
drag for awhile now.
> > > > we have tried to baby-it..... by helping the up travel & pulling it back
up along with the motor pushing, but
> > > > it has been slow.
> > > >
> > > > Long story short - The wife says she pushed the Express / Down button
and it won't go up at all now.
> > > > Apparently no UP action when pushing the button now.
> > > >
> > > > I have had the door panel off once before and lubed up the side tracks
with silicone spray and that was
> > > > a couple of years ago. It seemed to work back to normal, after that
service.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas for this current issue ? Tks Again, Jeffrie / Camas,
Washington
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

The motor can be purchased by itself.  But if you need a regulator, it has to
come with the motor on it.  If not, the cable will be a mess. It needs the motor
to keep everything in place.
I saw a new driver side regulator on ebay.  Iwould go to a pick n pull and get a
used one myself.  They guarantee them.


gerry

--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Gerry, Randy & Group,
>
> Napa has just a " Reman " driver's side window motor for: $ 151.00  ( no
regulator available from Napa).
>
> Any idea if there's a motor with an " attached " regulator already as some
kinda assembly ?
>
> I still like Vitally's idea of the complete door, as a replacement. Helpful I
guess if I could find one
> in the same Beige color as the 2002 Quest and just change the whole door??
>
> Any thoughts out there ?  Tks,  Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com [mailto:villagerquest@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerry
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:52 PM
> To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
>
>
> 99-02
>
> Gerry
>
> --- On Fri, 12/4/09, Vitally <alcher@...<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>> wrote:
>
> From: Vitally <alcher@...<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>>
> Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 10:32 PM
>
>
>
> That is a question for Gerry .
>
> Vitally
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Treece, Jeff
> To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com'
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
> HI Vitally....Do you know what other years fit my 2002 Quest ?
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Vitally
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:03 PM
> To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
> If you don't pick it up today ,,, by tomorrow ( figure of speech ) it will be
in the "crusher" and sent to the smelter, pronto.
> The whole van, engine and all.
> Vitally
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Treece, Jeff
> To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:%27villager quest%40yahoogro
ups.com>'
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:31 PM
> Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
> Hi Vitally..... Is $ 40.00 a realistic dollar amount for a complete driver's
side door(glass & all ? ).
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com> [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque
st%40yahoogroups .com>] On Behalf Of Vitally
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:23 PM
> To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com>
> Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
> Hi Jeff
>
> Go to the wrecker and take the whole driver side door to your home.
> Than slowly " dissect" the door to it's parts , reverse technology.
> Then replace bad parts you have with good parts in the door. Offer 40.00 for
the whole door and all its parts.
> Locks, motors, glass, trim, fasteners, cabling, switches, control arms ,
rubber seals around door , did I say side heated mirror ?
> Vitally
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: gbissi
> To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:46 PM
> Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
> It looks like the motor and regulator are serviceable separately. The motor
new is (sit down first) $232.00. The catalog says it fits 1997-02. Not sure
97-98 are really the same since freshening happened in 1999. And left hand &
right hand are different parts.
>
> I would go to a pick n pull and buy the regulator and motor aas an assembly
just in case you have binding going on in the regulator. You can go to
car-part.com and look on the page with the * for the lowest priced part.
>
> ebay has one for sale too. Item number: 330303147289. Aftermarket 93-98.
>
> Gerry
>
> --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@ >
wrote:
> >
> > Date: 12.04.09
> >
> > Hello Gerry & Group,
> >
> > Partial..... .Good News. Got home last night, took of the driver's door
panel. Found the passenger's
> > Window still working on the control circuit just fine / No activity from the
button for the Driver's side.
> >
> > Found the window completely bottomed out, but still sitting nicely in the
left & right window channel
> > with lots of lubrication for possible movement.
> >
> > Initially, the window would not budge upward with any type of pressure. Even
tried a screwdriver to
> > wedge up the window guide from the middle. So.....I took a hold of the
bottom of the window on both sides ( inside the door frame ) and forcefully
tried ramming it upward. It would only move about an
> > inch when I first started this. However, after about the 10th upward pulls
....something came loose and
> > the window then moved upward about 3 or 4 inches. I turned on the key and
the motor then activated
> > to move upward, but only about 2 inches and then went DEAD again. I
continued with the forcing by
> > hand....and then tried the motor again. The motor came on again for another
2 inches upward travel, but
> > then went dead again. I did this about 5 or 6 times. I got the window back
to the fully UP position and
> > left it that way so my wife can drive the car.
> >
> > Gerry....from your info below - I see there's only ONE relay that controls
power for both the driver's
> > & passengers windows ?
> >
> > Does this sound like a bad motor to you guys then ??
> >
> > If so......Do we have a procedure for replacing the motor ? The motor looks
like I can work my way thru
> > pulling out - But it's the cabling / sprocket with cables that I am unsure
about ?
> >
> > Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com> [mailto:villagerquest@
yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto:
villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>] On Behalf Of gbissi
> > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:24 PM
> > To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> > Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
> >
> >
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > Ford sells Mini-Vent lube that is in a small bottle and is thick silicone
oil. It works well for the glass runs. Can you hear the motor run? Does it try
to go up or down? Does the passenger window operate?
> >
> > It could be the relay. here's some info:
> > Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
> > F30 (10A)
> > F32 (20A)
> > F34 (20A)
> > F59 (7.5A)
> > Battery junction box (BJB) Fuses:
> > F20 (30A)
> > F27 (45A)
> > Switches
> > Circuits
> > Connectors
> > Heated back light
> > Relays
> > Power window relay - left side of dash panel
> >
> > Principles of Operation
> >
> > The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module). Power is
supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock
switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds
the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this
relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for
approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
> >
> > The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> >
> > The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and
the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch
when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The
SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position
and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or
passenger door is opened.
> >
> > The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com><mailto: villagerquest%
40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Date: 12.03.09
> > >
> > > Hello Group,
> > >
> > > 2002 Quest driver's side window has been going up/down slowly with some
drag for awhile now.
> > > we have tried to baby-it..... by helping the up travel & pulling it back
up along with the motor pushing, but
> > > it has been slow.
> > >
> > > Long story short - The wife says she pushed the Express / Down button and
it won't go up at all now.
> > > Apparently no UP action when pushing the button now.
> > >
> > > I have had the door panel off once before and lubed up the side tracks
with silicone spray and that was
> > > a couple of years ago. It seemed to work back to normal, after that
service.
> > >
> > > Any ideas for this current issue ? Tks Again, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hello Gerry, Randy & Group,

Napa has just a " Reman " driver's side window motor for: $ 151.00  ( no
regulator available from Napa).

Any idea if there's a motor with an " attached " regulator already as some kinda
assembly ?

I still like Vitally's idea of the complete door, as a replacement. Helpful I
guess if I could find one
in the same Beige color as the 2002 Quest and just change the whole door??

Any thoughts out there ?  Tks,  Jeffrie / Camas, Washington


________________________________
From: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com [mailto:villagerquest@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerry
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:52 PM
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window



99-02

Gerry

--- On Fri, 12/4/09, Vitally <alcher@...<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>>
wrote:

From: Vitally <alcher@...<mailto:alcher%40rogers.com>>
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com<mailto:villagerquest%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 10:32 PM



That is a question for Gerry .

Vitally

----- Original Message -----
From: Treece, Jeff
To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com'
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window

HI Vitally....Do you know what other years fit my 2002 Quest ?

____________ _________ _________ __
From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Vitally
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:03 PM
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window

If you don't pick it up today ,,, by tomorrow ( figure of speech ) it will be in
the "crusher" and sent to the smelter, pronto.
The whole van, engine and all.
Vitally

----- Original Message -----
From: Treece, Jeff
To: 'villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:%27villager quest%40yahoogro
ups.com>'
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window

Hi Vitally..... Is $ 40.00 a realistic dollar amount for a complete driver's
side door(glass & all ? ).

____________ _________ _________ __
From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com>
[mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com>] On Behalf Of Vitally
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:23 PM
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com>
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window

Hi Jeff

Go to the wrecker and take the whole driver side door to your home.
Than slowly " dissect" the door to it's parts , reverse technology.
Then replace bad parts you have with good parts in the door. Offer 40.00 for the
whole door and all its parts.
Locks, motors, glass, trim, fasteners, cabling, switches, control arms , rubber
seals around door , did I say side heated mirror ?
Vitally
----- Original Message -----
From: gbissi
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:46 PM
Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window

It looks like the motor and regulator are serviceable separately. The motor new
is (sit down first) $232.00. The catalog says it fits 1997-02. Not sure 97-98
are really the same since freshening happened in 1999. And left hand & right
hand are different parts.

I would go to a pick n pull and buy the regulator and motor aas an assembly just
in case you have binding going on in the regulator. You can go to car-part.com
and look on the page with the * for the lowest priced part.

ebay has one for sale too. Item number: 330303147289. Aftermarket 93-98.

Gerry

--- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@... >
wrote:
>
> Date: 12.04.09
>
> Hello Gerry & Group,
>
> Partial..... .Good News. Got home last night, took of the driver's door panel.
Found the passenger's
> Window still working on the control circuit just fine / No activity from the
button for the Driver's side.
>
> Found the window completely bottomed out, but still sitting nicely in the left
& right window channel
> with lots of lubrication for possible movement.
>
> Initially, the window would not budge upward with any type of pressure. Even
tried a screwdriver to
> wedge up the window guide from the middle. So.....I took a hold of the bottom
of the window on both sides ( inside the door frame ) and forcefully tried
ramming it upward. It would only move about an
> inch when I first started this. However, after about the 10th upward pulls
....something came loose and
> the window then moved upward about 3 or 4 inches. I turned on the key and the
motor then activated
> to move upward, but only about 2 inches and then went DEAD again. I continued
with the forcing by
> hand....and then tried the motor again. The motor came on again for another 2
inches upward travel, but
> then went dead again. I did this about 5 or 6 times. I got the window back to
the fully UP position and
> left it that way so my wife can drive the car.
>
> Gerry....from your info below - I see there's only ONE relay that controls
power for both the driver's
> & passengers windows ?
>
> Does this sound like a bad motor to you guys then ??
>
> If so......Do we have a procedure for replacing the motor ? The motor looks
like I can work my way thru
> pulling out - But it's the cabling / sprocket with cables that I am unsure
about ?
>
> Tks, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com> [mailto:villagerquest@
yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com><mailto:
villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>] On Behalf Of gbissi
> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:24 PM
> To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com>
> Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 2002 Quest Driver's Window
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Ford sells Mini-Vent lube that is in a small bottle and is thick silicone oil.
It works well for the glass runs. Can you hear the motor run? Does it try to go
up or down? Does the passenger window operate?
>
> It could be the relay. here's some info:
> Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
> F30 (10A)
> F32 (20A)
> F34 (20A)
> F59 (7.5A)
> Battery junction box (BJB) Fuses:
> F20 (30A)
> F27 (45A)
> Switches
> Circuits
> Connectors
> Heated back light
> Relays
> Power window relay - left side of dash panel
>
> Principles of Operation
>
> The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module). Power is
supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock
switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds
the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this
relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for
approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
>
> The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is operated
by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then
reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
>
> The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the
passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master
window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and
the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch
when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The
SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position
and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or
passenger door is opened.
>
> The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which is
operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window,
and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
>
> --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups
.com><mailto: villagerquest% 40yahoogroups. com><mailto: villagerquest%
40yahoogroups. com>, "Treece, Jeff" <jtreece@> wrote:
> >
> > Date: 12.03.09
> >
> > Hello Group,
> >
> > 2002 Quest driver's side window has been going up/down slowly with some drag
for awhile now.
> > we have tried to baby-it..... by helping the up travel & pulling it back up
along with the motor pushing, but
> > it has been slow.
> >
> > Long story short - The wife says she pushed the Express / Down button and it
won't go up at all now.
> > Apparently no UP action when pushing the button now.
> >
> > I have had the door panel off once before and lubed up the side tracks with
silicone spray and that was
> > a couple of years ago. It seemed to work back to normal, after that service.
> >
> > Any ideas for this current issue ? Tks Again, Jeffrie / Camas, Washington
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Randy,
Good information to know.
                                        \
                                       Joe

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, RP <rpedersen01@...> wrote:


From: RP <rpedersen01@...>
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 10:55 AM


 



Joseph:

Along with the information Gerry gave you, I posted a message #4186 in 2001
shortly after I joined this group about there being a very small clearance
between the rear brake drums and the backing plate and rust build up on the lip
of the drums. Basically I removed the drums put them in my blast cabinet and
removed all the rust and scale from them and gave them 4 good heavy coats of
high heat enamel and it has not made the sound since.

After having this noise and finding what caused it I started painting the brake
drums every time I did a brake job not only does it stop the rust and scale
build up but with some wheels it looks much better.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Agora
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change

Randy,
Thank you so much, you have restored my confidence. I can't imagine the shoes
being worn out but recently in the morning when I first start rolling and
gradually step on the brake pedal I hear a dragging sound. This is what makes me
worry about changing the shoes. Have any idea why the rear drums would make this
noise when applying the brakes first thing in the morning? After two or three
applications the noise goes away.

Joe

--- On Wed, 12/9/09, RP <rpedersen01@ cox.net> wrote:

From: RP <rpedersen01@ cox.net>
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 12:40 PM

Joseph:

It is pretty much just like Gerry said to remove the drums, although I have not
had the rusting problems that he mentions very often. To get the self adjusters
loose take a long skinny screwdriver or even a piece of welding rod and stick it
in the adjuster hole and push the adjust arm away from the star wheel, this will
allow you to easily turn the adjuster either direction with the adjuster tool or
even a wide flat screwdriver.

Make sure you have it jacked up and set on sturdy jack stands and before you
start turn the wheel to see how much if any drag it has. Then turn the adjuster
one direction using the instructions above two or three turns then try to turn
the wheel again if it turns harder or not at all you are going the wrong
direction. If it turns easier then keep turning it in that direction. Make sure
when you start turning it you make a mental note of which way, I have a bad
habit of turning it then checking the wheel and then get back to turning it
again and not remembering which way I was going lol.

Once you have turned the adjuster what you think is enough to release the drum,
I would say 6 or 10 turns as you can only turn it a small amount at a time, take
a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet and hit the drum on both sides a couple
time,. I have found this helps bump the shoes in enough to clear the drum.
Now try pulling the drum off by hand, which has worked on both of our Villagers
if the drum is not loose then find 2 bolts to screw into the holes on the
outside of the drum and just turn them in slowly and evenly to pull the drum
loose. After a few turns take a look and make sure the drum is clearing the
shoes and not pulling them out as you go. If they are still hung up then back
off the two bolts and the loosen the adjuster a bit more until it clears.

Once it comes off then all you need to do is make some notes as to which springs
are where and then start removing the parts, I would recommend a good brake
spring removal tool it will make the job allot easier, and then reassemble
opposite of removal. You may find that once you get it off that the rear brake
shoes are ok, at 192,000 miles our 96' GS is still running on the original rear
shoes and Toni uses it to go to work everyday and go shopping when needed,
although 111,000 of those miles were put on in one year driving a highway
delivery route.

Make sure to look over the wheel cylinders for an leaks if they have none then
remove a small amount of fluid from the master cylinder and then push the
plungers back in while holding the other end. If you push just one in you may
very well push the other side completely out. You can actually push them in
before you even remove the brake shoes by just pushing the top of the brake
shoes together.

If you have to replace the shoes do not forget to have your drums turned or even
replaced if the machine shop says they are past the limit. Don't let the amount
of parts and springs scare you the rear brakes are really pretty easy to do,
keep us informed of your progress.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Agora
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change

Thank you very much,
I would like the instructions, step by step with illustrations whenever you may
have the time to send them. I am alttle bit apprehensive about the rear brakes
because I had a tough time once when I owned a Ford Windstar. It seemed like to
many springs and parts to deal with..

Joe

--- On Wed, 12/9/09, gbissi <gbissi@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: gbissi <gbissi@yahoo. com>
Subject: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 10:33 AM

The hardest thing is to get the drums off. Spray some penetrating oil on the
center hub way ahead of time. When you are ready to do the job, remove the
access plug on the back of the backing plate & back off the self adjuster. This
may be difficult as it is usually pretty rusted. And, you have to figure out
which way to move the adjsuter to back off instead of tighten.

Some drums have a couple of screw holes in the front face that you can screw
bolts into that will help pull the drum off as you pry back and forth on the
sides with big screwdrivers. Be careful not to strip the bolt holes by screwing
the bolts in too hard. And, be careful not to bend the backing plates.

The other reason besides the rust on the hubs is that there is a ridge on the
outer part of the drum from the brakes shoes wearing into the drum. Getting the
drum over this ridge is tough if you can't back off the adjuster.

I have had to use a torch to free up the drum from the hub.

I'll post an illustration of the rear brakes in the temporary photo file.

Gerry

--- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com, "josephagora" <josephagora@ ...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any experience with changing the rear brake shoes on a 97
Nissan Quest?
>
> I changed the front pads but the rear drum brakes looked a bit difficult to
get into. I need some directions on How Too..
>
> Thanks Joe

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Randy, I remember one of our Guys north of the COLD border where I suggested the
lamp and It cleared it right up, but he gave the key input about how cold it got
during the night.
charlie


--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "RP" <rpedersen01@...> wrote:
>
> Charlie:
>
>     That would work also. I have found over the years that it is normally iced
up in the line some where or possibly the filter.
>     Since it did start and run I doubt if the injectors have any moisture in
them but it could be from the line that connects to the fuel rail on back to the
tank. That is why I prefer a heated garage if possible.
>
>     I learned along time ago to never let my fuel tank get below 1/4 during
the winter and to put in the deicer long before that kind of weather comes.
>
> Randy
> 96' Villager GS 192,000+
> 99' Villager Estate 62,000+
> 97' GS (Wrecked)
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>   From: vtcress
>   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 1:01 PM
>   Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 96 Villager Cranks But Hesitates to Start
>
>
>   Thats exactly what I was thinking Randy. A 3-500 watt halogen lamps directly
under the tank works well. Place it under where the fuel pump is.
>   charlie
>
>
>   --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "RP" <rpedersen01@> wrote:
>   >
>   > Mark:
>   >
>   >     My first inclination is that since you got weather cold enough for a
snow storm is that you have a frozen fuel line not letting enough fuel to the
injectors to start and run. This sound reasonable to me if you have not added
any fuel deicer or water eliminator, since the van ran yesterday until it was
parked and shut off.
>   >
>   >     The best deicer you can get is at your local pharmacy, buy a bottle of
90% Isopropyl Alcohol and pour it in the tank. It will try to melt the ice on
its own but may take quite awhile. I would get it inside a heated garage if
possible or get a space heater and let it blow under the van while trying to
find something to put around the van to hold the heat under it.
>   >
>   >     Of course all of this goes out the door if the van was parked in a
heated garage or had enough deicer put in before winter.
>   >
>   >     Keep us informed of what you find.
>   >
>   > Randy
>   > 96' Villager GS 192,000+
>   > 99' Villager Estate 62,000+
>   > 97' GS (Wrecked)
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >   ----- Original Message -----
>   >   From: markb240sx
>   >   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
>   >   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 8:39 AM
>   >   Subject: [villagerquest] 96 Villager Cranks But Hesitates to Start
>   >
>   >
>   >   Hello,
>   >
>   >   My name's Mark, my parents own a 96' Villager LS with the Nissan VG30E
engine and I seem to be having a problem with it.  To help you rule some of the
more common problems out, the car has had regular maintenance wear and tear
maintenance performed by myself, air filter was cleaned in the summer (K&N
element), just changed the plugs in August, wires are 1 year old, distributor
cap & rotor are as old as the wires, and the fuel filter was just changed 2
months ago.  The Villager ran just fine yesterday and had no problems
whatsoever, however we had a huge snow storm overnight.  My dad went out this
morning and proceeded to start the vehicle, from what he told me, the car
started first crank as always, idled for a minute, then died.  He tried starting
it back up, it catches periodically only with your foot held down on the
throttle (at which point it consistently sputters, bogs, backfires *little pops*
through the intake, then stalls) but doesn't stay running for more than 5-10
seconds.  I've gone through two batteries attempting to start the car.  I hear
the fuel pump (though it doesn't sound very strong and hasn't within the last
few years), engine turns over smoothly and it has spark.  I noticed that someone
who previously worked on the car replaced a little blade connector on the
distributor which faces out towards the front of the vehicle, which I believe to
be some sort of a ground wire, not sure if this might have something to do with
it, but I'll throw it out there anyway.
>   >
>   >   I'm suspecting something wrong with an electrical component, I'm
pointing towards the fuel pump for the starting issue as I've always suspected
the fuel pump of being a little weak (especially after almost 14 years of use). 
You can barely hear it when it primes (been like this for a while now), but it
does prime none the less.  I can't measure fuel line pressure at the moment as I
don't have a gauge.  So far, I've tried unplugging the little vac line to the
fuel pressure regulator to see if it might spike fuel pressure a bit, so I let
the pump prime, turned the key, car started for a couple seconds without my foot
on the throttle, then sputtered and died.
>   >
>   >   I'm also concerned about the intake back-fire.  The car has backfired
through the intake (although VERY rarely) only when attempting to start it,
which I believe to be incorrect timing.
>   >
>   >   Am I on the right track with this?  Any help is appreciated!
>   >
>   >   Thank you for your time,
>   >   Mark
>   >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Jeff:

     Thanks for the report, I am glad you took the time to look over the starter
drive and tell us what you found. I remember those days of freezing my #$% off
working on my vehicles. I am to damn old now to even think about working in
those conditions even if disability would allow it lol.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Treece, Jeff
   To: 'villagerquest@yahoogroups.com'
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 1:26 PM
   Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: Starter for 1993


   Hello Gerry, Randy & All,

   Did the quick test ( voltage to the S terminal ) just to be sure. The moment
the key was released from the start position,  the voltage was lost from that
terminal. Looks like the key/switch is still OK.

   The starter change took a longggggggg time.  It's about 15 degrees out here in
Camas, Washington
   so I am lucky I had the garage to work in, but it took about an hour with the
little space heater to get
   the garage temp up to about 38 degrees....and from there -  I was taking
breaks every 15 minutes or
   so to warm up the hands & fingers.

   Anyway - The starter came out OK with the need to remove only a couple of
support hoses, going to
   the Air Handler itself & not the entire air unit.

   The starter drive looked OK upon inspection, but the actual drive gear seemed
sort of loose to the
   touch.  It had lots of movement in both directions for the gear.  The reman I
got from NAPA was
   tight to the touch for the gear.  The gear itself on the starter and from what
I could feel by touch
   of the teeth on the flex plate seemed to be all there.  Got it all buttoned up
in about 2 hours and
   works just fine.   Note: The replacement starter is very quick starting,
compared to the old one.
   makes sense I guess after 157K miles.

   Thanks again for all of your help .  The Napa Reman was $ 134.00  with a 3year
warranty.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Joseph:

     Along with the information Gerry gave you, I posted a message #4186 in 2001
shortly after I joined this group about there being a very small clearance
between the rear brake drums and the backing plate and rust build up on the lip
of the drums. Basically I removed the drums put them in my blast cabinet and
removed all the rust and scale from them and gave them 4 good heavy coats of
high heat enamel and it has not made the sound since.

     After having this noise and finding what caused it I started painting the
brake drums every time I did a brake job not only does it stop the rust and
scale build up but with some wheels it looks much better.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Joseph Agora
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 6:54 PM
   Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change


   Randy,
   Thank you so much, you have restored my confidence. I can't imagine the shoes
being worn out but recently in the morning when I first start rolling and
gradually step on the brake pedal I hear a dragging sound. This is what makes me
worry about changing the shoes. Have any idea why the rear drums would make this
noise when applying the brakes first thing in the morning? After two or three
applications the noise goes away.

   Joe

   --- On Wed, 12/9/09, RP <rpedersen01@...> wrote:


   From: RP <rpedersen01@...>
   Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 12:40 PM






   Joseph:

   It is pretty much just like Gerry said to remove the drums, although I have
not had the rusting problems that he mentions very often. To get the self
adjusters loose take a long skinny screwdriver or even a piece of welding rod
and stick it in the adjuster hole and push the adjust arm away from the star
wheel, this will allow you to easily turn the adjuster either direction with the
adjuster tool or even a wide flat screwdriver.

   Make sure you have it jacked up and set on sturdy jack stands and before you
start turn the wheel to see how much if any drag it has. Then turn the adjuster
one direction using the instructions above two or three turns then try to turn
the wheel again if it turns harder or not at all you are going the wrong
direction. If it turns easier then keep turning it in that direction. Make sure
when you start turning it you make a mental note of which way, I have a bad
habit of turning it then checking the wheel and then get back to turning it
again and not remembering which way I was going lol.

   Once you have turned the adjuster what you think is enough to release the
drum, I would say 6 or 10 turns as you can only turn it a small amount at a
time, take a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet and hit the drum on both sides a
couple time,. I have found this helps bump the shoes in enough to clear the
drum.
   Now try pulling the drum off by hand, which has worked on both of our
Villagers if the drum is not loose then find 2 bolts to screw into the holes on
the outside of the drum and just turn them in slowly and evenly to pull the drum
loose. After a few turns take a look and make sure the drum is clearing the
shoes and not pulling them out as you go. If they are still hung up then back
off the two bolts and the loosen the adjuster a bit more until it clears.

   Once it comes off then all you need to do is make some notes as to which
springs are where and then start removing the parts, I would recommend a good
brake spring removal tool it will make the job allot easier, and then reassemble
opposite of removal. You may find that once you get it off that the rear brake
shoes are ok, at 192,000 miles our 96' GS is still running on the original rear
shoes and Toni uses it to go to work everyday and go shopping when needed,
although 111,000 of those miles were put on in one year driving a highway
delivery route.

   Make sure to look over the wheel cylinders for an leaks if they have none then
remove a small amount of fluid from the master cylinder and then push the
plungers back in while holding the other end. If you push just one in you may
very well push the other side completely out. You can actually push them in
before you even remove the brake shoes by just pushing the top of the brake
shoes together.

   If you have to replace the shoes do not forget to have your drums turned or
even replaced if the machine shop says they are past the limit. Don't let the
amount of parts and springs scare you the rear brakes are really pretty easy to
do, keep us informed of your progress.

   Randy
   96' Villager GS 192,000+
   99' Villager Estate 62,000+
   97' GS (Wrecked)

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Joseph Agora
   To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 9:47 AM
   Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change

   Thank you very much,
   I would like the instructions, step by step with illustrations whenever you
may have the time to send them. I am alttle bit apprehensive about the rear
brakes because I had a tough time once when I owned a Ford Windstar. It seemed
like to many springs and parts to deal with..

   Joe

   --- On Wed, 12/9/09, gbissi <gbissi@yahoo. com> wrote:

   From: gbissi <gbissi@yahoo. com>
   Subject: [villagerquest] Re: Rear Drum Brake Pad Change
   To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
   Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 10:33 AM

   The hardest thing is to get the drums off. Spray some penetrating oil on the
center hub way ahead of time. When you are ready to do the job, remove the
access plug on the back of the backing plate & back off the self adjuster. This
may be difficult as it is usually pretty rusted. And, you have to figure out
which way to move the adjsuter to back off instead of tighten.

   Some drums have a couple of screw holes in the front face that you can screw
bolts into that will help pull the drum off as you pry back and forth on the
sides with big screwdrivers. Be careful not to strip the bolt holes by screwing
the bolts in too hard. And, be careful not to bend the backing plates.

   The other reason besides the rust on the hubs is that there is a ridge on the
outer part of the drum from the brakes shoes wearing into the drum. Getting the
drum over this ridge is tough if you can't back off the adjuster.

   I have had to use a torch to free up the drum from the hub.

   I'll post an illustration of the rear brakes in the temporary photo file.

   Gerry

   --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com, "josephagora" <josephagora@ ...>
wrote:
   >
   > Does anyone have any experience with changing the rear brake shoes on a 97
Nissan Quest?
   >
   > I changed the front pads but the rear drum brakes looked a bit difficult to
get into. I need some directions on How Too..
   >
   > Thanks Joe


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Charlie:

     That would work also. I have found over the years that it is normally iced
up in the line some where or possibly the filter.
     Since it did start and run I doubt if the injectors have any moisture in
them but it could be from the line that connects to the fuel rail on back to the
tank. That is why I prefer a heated garage if possible.

     I learned along time ago to never let my fuel tank get below 1/4 during the
winter and to put in the deicer long before that kind of weather comes.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)




----- Original Message -----
   From: vtcress
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 1:01 PM
   Subject: [villagerquest] Re: 96 Villager Cranks But Hesitates to Start


   Thats exactly what I was thinking Randy. A 3-500 watt halogen lamps directly
under the tank works well. Place it under where the fuel pump is.
   charlie


   --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "RP" <rpedersen01@...> wrote:
   >
   > Mark:
   >
   >     My first inclination is that since you got weather cold enough for a
snow storm is that you have a frozen fuel line not letting enough fuel to the
injectors to start and run. This sound reasonable to me if you have not added
any fuel deicer or water eliminator, since the van ran yesterday until it was
parked and shut off.
   >
   >     The best deicer you can get is at your local pharmacy, buy a bottle of
90% Isopropyl Alcohol and pour it in the tank. It will try to melt the ice on
its own but may take quite awhile. I would get it inside a heated garage if
possible or get a space heater and let it blow under the van while trying to
find something to put around the van to hold the heat under it.
   >
   >     Of course all of this goes out the door if the van was parked in a
heated garage or had enough deicer put in before winter.
   >
   >     Keep us informed of what you find.
   >
   > Randy
   > 96' Villager GS 192,000+
   > 99' Villager Estate 62,000+
   > 97' GS (Wrecked)
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >   ----- Original Message -----
   >   From: markb240sx
   >   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   >   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 8:39 AM
   >   Subject: [villagerquest] 96 Villager Cranks But Hesitates to Start
   >
   >
   >   Hello,
   >
   >   My name's Mark, my parents own a 96' Villager LS with the Nissan VG30E
engine and I seem to be having a problem with it.  To help you rule some of the
more common problems out, the car has had regular maintenance wear and tear
maintenance performed by myself, air filter was cleaned in the summer (K&N
element), just changed the plugs in August, wires are 1 year old, distributor
cap & rotor are as old as the wires, and the fuel filter was just changed 2
months ago.  The Villager ran just fine yesterday and had no problems
whatsoever, however we had a huge snow storm overnight.  My dad went out this
morning and proceeded to start the vehicle, from what he told me, the car
started first crank as always, idled for a minute, then died.  He tried starting
it back up, it catches periodically only with your foot held down on the
throttle (at which point it consistently sputters, bogs, backfires *little pops*
through the intake, then stalls) but doesn't stay running for more than 5-10
seconds.  I've gone through two batteries attempting to start the car.  I hear
the fuel pump (though it doesn't sound very strong and hasn't within the last
few years), engine turns over smoothly and it has spark.  I noticed that someone
who previously worked on the car replaced a little blade connector on the
distributor which faces out towards the front of the vehicle, which I believe to
be some sort of a ground wire, not sure if this might have something to do with
it, but I'll throw it out there anyway.
   >
   >   I'm suspecting something wrong with an electrical component, I'm pointing
towards the fuel pump for the starting issue as I've always suspected the fuel
pump of being a little weak (especially after almost 14 years of use).  You can
barely hear it when it primes (been like this for a while now), but it does
prime none the less.  I can't measure fuel line pressure at the moment as I
don't have a gauge.  So far, I've tried unplugging the little vac line to the
fuel pressure regulator to see if it might spike fuel pressure a bit, so I let
the pump prime, turned the key, car started for a couple seconds without my foot
on the throttle, then sputtered and died.
   >
   >   I'm also concerned about the intake back-fire.  The car has backfired
through the intake (although VERY rarely) only when attempting to start it,
which I believe to be incorrect timing.
   >
   >   Am I on the right track with this?  Any help is appreciated!
   >
   >   Thank you for your time,
   >   Mark
   >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dan,
 
Ford stopped servicing the bearing at some point. Aftermarket may have it still
have it.  If you buy a hb assembly on ebay, make sure it incudes the bearing.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
 






Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs — Rear

1993 Villager Workshop Manual
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY



Hub/Bearing Assembly
 
Disassembly
Tool Required:

Bearing Cup Replacer T77F-1202-A

Remove the hub/bearing assembly. Refer to the procedure in this section.

Remove the snap ring from the hub/bearing assembly.





Use a press and Bearing Cup Replacer T77F-1202-A to press the bearing from the
hub.




 
Assembly
Tools Required:

Dust Shield Replacer T87C-1175-B
Pinion Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-E

Use a press and Dust Shield Replacer T87C-1175-B to press the bearing into the
hub with Pinion Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-E.





Install the snap ring in the hub/bearing assembly.





Install the hub/bearing assembly. Refer to the procedure in this section.
 
 

Gerry

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, dancadigan <dancadigan@...> wrote:


From: dancadigan <dancadigan@...>
Subject: [villagerquest] 2001 Villager Humming Noise
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 4:45 AM


 



I am convinced that the hum noise is coming from the drivers side rear wheel
bearing

When I spin each wheel free, only the drivers side rear sounds like snap,
crackle and pop

What does it take to change the rear wheel bearing ?











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Another way to turn off the CEL besides disconnecting the battery is to cycle
the from on to off 40 times. That is faster than going through the specified
number of official drive cycles.

Gerry in Dearborn




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Great news Jeff and thanks for the feedback.

Gerry in Detroit/Dearborn

--- On Wed, 12/9/09, Treece, Jeff <jtreece@...> wrote:


From: Treece, Jeff <jtreece@...>
Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Re: Starter for 1993
To: "'villagerquest@yahoogroups.com'" <villagerquest@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 7:26 PM


 



Hello Gerry, Randy & All,

Did the quick test ( voltage to the S terminal ) just to be sure. The moment the
key was released from the start position, the voltage was lost from that
terminal. Looks like the key/switch is still OK.

The starter change took a longggggggg time. It's about 15 degrees out here in
Camas, Washington
so I am lucky I had the garage to work in, but it took about an hour with the
little space heater to get
the garage temp up to about 38 degrees....and from there - I was taking breaks
every 15 minutes or
so to warm up the hands & fingers.

Anyway - The starter came out OK with the need to remove only a couple of
support hoses, going to
the Air Handler itself & not the entire air unit.

The starter drive looked OK upon inspection, but the actual drive gear seemed
sort of loose to the
touch. It had lots of movement in both directions for the gear. The reman I got
from NAPA was
tight to the touch for the gear. The gear itself on the starter and from what I
could feel by touch
of the teeth on the flex plate seemed to be all there. Got it all buttoned up in
about 2 hours and
works just fine. Note: The replacement starter is very quick starting, compared
to the old one.
makes sense I guess after 157K miles.

Thanks again for all of your help . The Napa Reman was $ 134.00 with a 3year
warranty.

____________ _________ _________ __
From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of RP
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 9:50 AM
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Starter for 1993

Gerry:

Even on a regular starter if the flex plate has say 195 teeth, and I imagine
many are more than this, and the drive has 9 teeth then you have ratio of 21.66
which is good when trying to start the engine but if the drive hung up then with
the engine at 750 rpm the starter armature would be turning 16,250 rpm.

On the ones I have take apart that have done that even the wire used to wind the
armature is in short little quarter inch pieces. So like you say the reduction
starter would be very bad. lol

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)

----- Original Message -----
From: Gerry
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Starter for 1993

Randy,

Especially true with the gear reduction starters we use today.

Gerry

From: RP <rpedersen01@ cox.net<mailto:rpedersen01 %40cox.net> >
Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Re: Starter for 1993
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:villagerque st%40yahoogroups .com>
Date: Tuesday, December 8, 2009, 3:29 PM

This is not what yours is doing but if the power would stay engaged and the
overrun protection did not work then the starter motor is turning at a very high
rpm that will actually blow the starter motor armature to pieces. I have taken
some apart that have done this and it looks like a bomb went off inside the
starter. Just think about the gear ratio from the flex-plate to the drive gear,
if the engine is idling at 750 rpm then if the starter stays engaged it would be
turning many thousand of rpm's. I would think well over 20,000 maybe double
that, I would need a gear tooth count to tell.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Do the TP sesnor adjust first. Then check for codes with the O/D light method if
that doesn't fix it.
 
Here is the test procedure from the shop manual. You are missing a step or
two.  Also, the dropping resister can be your issue. Vitally hasa pictures and
locations for this elusive resister.
 
If using OD Off Lamp:

Key OFF.
Place the selector lever in P range.
Key ON.
OD Off Lamp should come on for two seconds; if not, go to ODL Pinpoint Test.
Key in OFF, but not LOCK position.
Move the selector lever to D range.
Hold the OD On/Off switch button in.
Turn the key ON while holding the OD On/Off switch button in, and wait for more
than two seconds.
Keep holding the OD On/Off switch button in while moving the selector lever to 2
range.
Release the OD On/Off switch button.
Set the OD On/Off switch to ON position.
Move the selector lever to 1 range.
Set the OD On/Off switch to OFF position.
Depress the accelerator pedal fully then release it.
Observe the OD Off Lamp (refer to the appendix on how to read the OD Off Lamp
flashing DTCs).
Record the DTCs.


Gerry

--- On Wed, 12/9/09, outlawmws <outlawmws@...> wrote:


From: outlawmws <outlawmws@...>
Subject: [villagerquest] Re: Hard shifts from 0 mph and intosecond?
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 9:35 PM


 



The TPS for the Tranny solenoid should not apply, it is specifically for 93's
and newer trannys have a fix... (Mine is 95)

I found the tranny diagnostics, sheet adn it doesn't diagnose, see below...

############ ######### #####

Test using O/D Off Lamp

Key off
Place selector lever in Park
Key ON
OD Off Lamp should come on for 2 seconds
Key in OFF, but not LOCK position
Move the seletor lever to D range
Hold the OD On/Off switch button in
Turn the key ON while holding the OD On/Off switch button in, and wait for more
than 2 seconds
Keep holding the the OD On/Off switch button in while moving the selector lever
to 2 range
Release the OD On/Off switch button
Set the OD On/Off switch to ON position

&&& It is on when I release the OD switch, hitting it again it goes off, I tried
a simple release (light on), and to the next step, and hitting it once and then
the next step, and off then on, and next step. No flashes…&&&

Depress the accelerator pedal fully, then release it
Observe the OD Off lamp
Record the DTCs

&& 10 Flashes, look for the "long" flash &&&

Any other ideas, or is it likely to be the TPS? How to adjust?

--- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com, "vtcress" <auto.quest@ ...> wrote:
>
> Could be a TPS issue or could be a Tranny solenoid package issue (see the TSB)
or the dropping resistor. The oil pressure is regulated in the tranny to provide
smooth shifts over different temps. Any of these issues can make for the hard
1-2 shifts.
> charlie
>
>
> --- In villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com, "outlawmws" <outlawmws@> wrote:
> >
> > Another thing I've been having is hard shifting on initial acceleration, and
into second from first; it sort of bangs into gear, which bothers me. If I
feather the throttle it either doesn't happen or is reduced. It is worse when
it's not fully warmed up.
> >
> > I know there are no band adjusters on this tranny, so would this be a TPS
adjustment?
> >
> > -Outlaw
> >
>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-Outlaw:

     Everyone has given you advice on the different things it could be. The first
thing to do, as Jerry mentioned, is to check that the fluid level is correct and
that the fluid is not burnt, this is normally a first clue as to something going
wrong inside your transaxle or at the very least it has been to long since the
transaxle was serviced.

     Second thing on the list, which Gerry and Tom mentioned, is to test the TPS
and if it is ok then adjust it. Watch the VOM closely when testing it to see if
you get an erratic reading. It should be smooth and steady if the needle jumps
around at all then replace the TPS and adjust to specs. Don't just set it, make
sure to test it first.

     Many people just replace the TPS as a normal wear item rather than test it,
this is up to you.

     Once you have tested the TPS and have it set correctly and this does not
cure your 1-2 shift then the next thing to check, as Vitally suggested, is the
dropping resistor the location and specs for it are in the Files section of the
group page under Transaxle, Hard 1-2 Shifts.pdf.

     Also some have reported feeling a hard 1-2 shift when they had some bad
motor mounts. Our 96' GS had both engine mounts completely ripped loose and it
never did shift hard, all we noticed was a thump sound between shifts at certain
throttle settings.

     Once you have confirmed all of the above are correct and operating properly
and you still have a 1-2 shift problem then you may have an internal problem
with the transaxle which should be checked by a good transmission shop.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: outlawmws
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 2:11 PM
   Subject: [villagerquest] Hard shifts from 0 mph and intosecond?


   Another thing I've been having is hard shifting on initial acceleration, and
into second from first; it sort of bangs into gear, which bothers me.  If I
feather the throttle it either doesn't happen or is reduced.  It is worse when
it's not fully warmed up.

   I know there are no band adjusters on this tranny, so would this be a TPS
adjustment?

      -Outlaw



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dan,
 
Here is the procedure. I saw a new rear hub assembly on ebay cheap. Make sure it
includes the bearing.  You may want to get it. The hardest thing may be getting
the brake drum off.
 
The bearing is serviced with the hub.  Ford price is $351.00, XF5Z-1109-BA.
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\
-------------------------------------
 





SECTION 204-02: Rear Suspension

2001 Villager Workshop Manual


REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Procedure revision date: 07/11/2000


Hub

Removal

Remove the brake drum. For additional information, refer to Section 206-02.

Remove the hub grease cap.


Remove the hub assembly.

Remove the cotter key and discard.

Remove the nut.

Remove the washer.

Installation

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\
----------------------------------------------


Gerry

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, dancadigan <dancadigan@...> wrote:


From: dancadigan <dancadigan@...>
Subject: [villagerquest] 2001 Villager Humming Noise
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 4:45 AM


 



I am convinced that the hum noise is coming from the drivers side rear wheel
bearing

When I spin each wheel free, only the drivers side rear sounds like snap,
crackle and pop

What does it take to change the rear wheel bearing ?











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Vitally:

     That would depend on how often you change your oil, I like to change every
2k to 3k if running regular oil and every 5k on synthetic. That makes for quite
a bit of transmission fluid changing in a year of normal driving.

      I have found over the years even with my F250 tow truck that a full fluid
and filter change every 25,000 miles will keep most any automatic transmission
in good shape.

     On the V/Q some have said that with the screen type filter it would not need
changed unless you see allot of trash in the pan or filter.

Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Vitally
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:14 PM
   Subject: Re: [villagerquest] Hard 1-2 Shifts


   I recommend a 4 L. trany oil replacement every engine oil change.
   Vitally


     ----- Original Message -----
     From: vtcress
     To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
     Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:22 PM
     Subject: [villagerquest] Hard 1-2 Shifts


     I just created a document on the hard 1-2 shifts. If you all have anything
to add or change let me know, especially Gerry or Randy or Vitally.
     charlie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dan:

     They are pretty easy compared to the front one, here is the procedure from
the service CD. You don't even have to remove the brake shoes, just get the drum
off so you can get to the hub. Once the hub is off just remove the snap ring,
press out the old bearing, press in the new one and replace the snap ring then
reassemble the hub to the axle like stated below.

  Randy
96' Villager GS 192,000+
99' Villager Estate 62,000+
97' GS (Wrecked)





============================================================================
Wheel Bearing and Rear Hub Assembly


Drum Brakes


Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the brake drum (1126).

4. Remove the hub grease cap.

5. Remove the cotter pin. Discard the cotter pin.

6. Remove the rear wheel bearing nut and washer.

7. Remove the rear hub and rear wheel bearing assembly.


Installation

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Tighten the rear wheel bearing nut to 196-284 N-m (145-210 lb-ft).

Tighten the lug nuts to 98-118 N-m (72-87 lb-ft).
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: dancadigan
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 10:45 PM
   Subject: [villagerquest] 2001 Villager Humming Noise


   I am convinced that the hum noise is coming from the drivers side rear wheel
bearing

   When I spin each wheel free, only the drivers side rear sounds like snap,
crackle and pop

   What does it take to change the rear wheel bearing ?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Chris,

I forgot to tell you to take a close look at the front latch to see why ti's
allowing the cable to the rear latch to move when it's locked. I haven't had
mine apart lately to look, but usually, when locked, all of the linkages don't
move.  Let us know what you find.


Gerry in Dearborn

--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Gerry-
>
> Thanks, I got that email today. I really appreciate the information. As soon
as it heats up enough snot doesn't freeze. I am half tempted to weld the door
shut and install a francy horn in the door, but I know my wife will never let me
live it down if I do that.
>
> I saw someplace in my service manual about adjusting the latch catch on the
body, but for the life of my I can't make any damn sense of it.
>
> So from you email, I am assuming that after periods of time that cable and
stretch or whatever causing the door to not always latch.
>
> Chris
>
>
> --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "gbissi" <gbissi@> wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > You have to adjust the rear latch cable so there is no slack.  That is done
at the front sliding door latch. I will try to send you the procedure. Be sure
to mark the position of the bolt before you loosen it. That way you know where
you started from.
> >
> > I suspect the rear latch is not closing completely.  When you pull on the
door handle with the door locked, it should not pull the cable for the rear
latch to release it.  Maybe too much slack was removed during a previous
adjsutment.  Make sure you just barely take the slack out.
> >
> > When you have the trim panel off, watch to see how much the cable moves when
locked and unlocked.  See if the cable pulls the rear latch when it's locked. 
Let us know.
> >
> >
> > Gerry in Dearborn
> >
> > 98V  158k
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "vtcress" <auto.quest@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Chris;
> > > Good to hear from you. Was just wondering how you were the other day.
Merry Christmas. Sorry I don't have experience with the sliding door but I know
my driver side door is a little crazy as well. The latch is often tight and
takes a hard pull to just open the latch.
> > > Charlie in vt
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I guess I should stop being a dork, Sorry.
> > > >
> > > > It's a 2000 Nissan Quest GXE..
> > > >
> > > > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello guys, long time no talk! I hope everyone is doing well!
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a problem I have not been able to solve. My wife's passenger
side sliding door has a mind of it's own. When you go to shut it, it looks like
it's shut, feels like it's shut, but when you drive off the interior lights come
on... If I park and shut that door, the lights go off. At first I thought it was
the door sensor, so I cleaned them quite nicely, but now I've noticed that the
door doesn't always shut. If it's shut and the door is locked (to disengage the
handle from opening the door) and I pull on the door, the hinge on the back of
the door appears to be letting go because the back part of the door will open
ever so slightly.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thinking it was a latch problem, I added some white lithirum grease to
the latch, worked it in the latch, no change.
> > > > >
> > > > > I loosed the bolts for the latch and half ass attempted to adjust the
latch to see if that was the issue .. so far, no change (it's been bitter cold
outside, so I haven't spent ALOT of time on it).
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas? Anyone know how to properly adjust the latch and catch in
the door jam? Help! It's driving my wife nuts, and has even set off the car
alarm...
> > > > >
> > > > > Chris
> > > > > Van, WA!
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Just replace the TPS this is 99% of the problem

Tom



To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
From: outlawmws@...
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:11:46 +0000
Subject: [villagerquest] Hard shifts from 0 mph and intosecond?




























       Another thing I've been having is hard shifting on initial acceleration,
and into second from first; it sort of bangs into gear, which bothers me.  If I
feather the throttle it either doesn't happen or is reduced.  It is worse when
it's not fully warmed up.



I know there are no band adjusters on this tranny, so would this be a TPS
adjustment?



-Outlaw


















_________________________________________________________________
Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=xbox+games&scope=cashback&form=MSHYCB&publ\
=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_Shopping_Giftsforthem_cashback_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I recommend a 4 L. trany oil replacement every engine oil change.
Vitally


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: vtcress
   To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:22 PM
   Subject: [villagerquest] Hard 1-2 Shifts


   I just created a document on the hard 1-2 shifts. If you all have anything to
add or change let me know, especially Gerry or Randy or Vitally.
   charlie



   ------------------------------------

   Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Gerry-

Thanks, I got that email today. I really appreciate the information. As soon as
it heats up enough snot doesn't freeze. I am half tempted to weld the door shut
and install a francy horn in the door, but I know my wife will never let me live
it down if I do that.

I saw someplace in my service manual about adjusting the latch catch on the
body, but for the life of my I can't make any damn sense of it.

So from you email, I am assuming that after periods of time that cable and
stretch or whatever causing the door to not always latch.

Chris


--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "gbissi" <gbissi@...> wrote:
>
> Chris,
>
> You have to adjust the rear latch cable so there is no slack.  That is done at
the front sliding door latch. I will try to send you the procedure. Be sure to
mark the position of the bolt before you loosen it. That way you know where you
started from.
>
> I suspect the rear latch is not closing completely.  When you pull on the door
handle with the door locked, it should not pull the cable for the rear latch to
release it.  Maybe too much slack was removed during a previous adjsutment. 
Make sure you just barely take the slack out.
>
> When you have the trim panel off, watch to see how much the cable moves when
locked and unlocked.  See if the cable pulls the rear latch when it's locked. 
Let us know.
>
>
> Gerry in Dearborn
>
> 98V  158k
>
> --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "vtcress" <auto.quest@> wrote:
> >
> > Chris;
> > Good to hear from you. Was just wondering how you were the other day. Merry
Christmas. Sorry I don't have experience with the sliding door but I know my
driver side door is a little crazy as well. The latch is often tight and takes a
hard pull to just open the latch.
> > Charlie in vt
> >
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I guess I should stop being a dork, Sorry.
> > >
> > > It's a 2000 Nissan Quest GXE..
> > >
> > > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello guys, long time no talk! I hope everyone is doing well!
> > > >
> > > > I have a problem I have not been able to solve. My wife's passenger side
sliding door has a mind of it's own. When you go to shut it, it looks like it's
shut, feels like it's shut, but when you drive off the interior lights come
on... If I park and shut that door, the lights go off. At first I thought it was
the door sensor, so I cleaned them quite nicely, but now I've noticed that the
door doesn't always shut. If it's shut and the door is locked (to disengage the
handle from opening the door) and I pull on the door, the hinge on the back of
the door appears to be letting go because the back part of the door will open
ever so slightly.
> > > >
> > > > Thinking it was a latch problem, I added some white lithirum grease to
the latch, worked it in the latch, no change.
> > > >
> > > > I loosed the bolts for the latch and half ass attempted to adjust the
latch to see if that was the issue .. so far, no change (it's been bitter cold
outside, so I haven't spent ALOT of time on it).
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas? Anyone know how to properly adjust the latch and catch in the
door jam? Help! It's driving my wife nuts, and has even set off the car alarm...
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > > Van, WA!
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I am convinced that the hum noise is coming from the drivers side rear wheel
bearing

When I spin each wheel free, only the drivers side rear sounds like snap,
crackle and pop

What does it take to change the rear wheel bearing ?

Thanks Charlie-

I tried to email you a few months back but didn't hear anything. I'm done well
and I hope you are doing the same. The latch is starting to make me mad enough
to go Dukes of Hazzard Style. ..

Chris

--- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "vtcress" <auto.quest@...> wrote:
>
> Chris;
> Good to hear from you. Was just wondering how you were the other day. Merry
Christmas. Sorry I don't have experience with the sliding door but I know my
driver side door is a little crazy as well. The latch is often tight and takes a
hard pull to just open the latch.
> Charlie in vt
>
>
> --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@> wrote:
> >
> > I guess I should stop being a dork, Sorry.
> >
> > It's a 2000 Nissan Quest GXE..
> >
> > --- In villagerquest@yahoogroups.com, "cleveret" <cleveret@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello guys, long time no talk! I hope everyone is doing well!
> > >
> > > I have a problem I have not been able to solve. My wife's passenger side
sliding door has a mind of it's own. When you go to shut it, it looks like it's
shut, feels like it's shut, but when you drive off the interior lights come
on... If I park and shut that door, the lights go off. At first I thought it was
the door sensor, so I cleaned them quite nicely, but now I've noticed that the
door doesn't always shut. If it's shut and the door is locked (to disengage the
handle from opening the door) and I pull on the door, the hinge on the back of
the door appears to be letting go because the back part of the door will open
ever so slightly.
> > >
> > > Thinking it was a latch problem, I added some white lithirum grease to the
latch, worked it in the latch, no change.
> > >
> > > I loosed the bolts for the latch and half ass attempted to adjust the
latch to see if that was the issue .. so far, no change (it's been bitter cold
outside, so I haven't spent ALOT of time on it).
> > >
> > > Any ideas? Anyone know how to properly adjust the latch and catch in the
door jam? Help! It's driving my wife nuts, and has even set off the car alarm...
> > >
> > > Chris
> > > Van, WA!
> > >
> >
>

Sorry, its located in the transaxel folder.

I just created a document on the hard 1-2 shifts. If you all have anything to
add or change let me know, especially Gerry or Randy or Vitally.
charlie

You might also have a bad TP sensor on the throttle body or it's out of
adjustment.  It has a big effect on shift feel.

Gerry

--- On Wed, 12/9/09, Jerry Whittle <whittlej@...> wrote:


From: Jerry Whittle <whittlej@...>
Subject: RE: [villagerquest] Hard shifts from 0 mph and intosecond?
To: villagerquest@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 11:29 PM


 



Have you changed the transmission fluid and filter? What does the fluid
smell like? Hopefully not burnt!

You might also want to inspect all the motor mounts. They could cause things
to bang around.

Jerry Whittle
Belleville, Illinois, USA
whittlej@charter. net
Light. Strong. Cheap. Pick two. Keith Bontrager - Bicycle Builder

-----Original Message-----
From: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of outlawmws
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 2:12 PM
To: villagerquest@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [villagerquest] Hard shifts from 0 mph and intosecond?

Another thing I've been having is hard shifting on initial acceleration, and
into second from first; it sort of bangs into gear, which bothers me. If I
feather the throttle it either doesn't happen or is reduced. It is worse
when it's not fully warmed up.

I know there are no band adjusters on this tranny, so would this be a TPS
adjustment?

-Outlaw











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]