I'm doing some shopping online, and I'm thinking of getting a 3" Toolmakers
vise.

There's a 3" Wide TTC brand Toolmakers's vise for $83.16,
M61-410-200
or a 3" Wide Phase II brand Precision Sine Vise for $131.25
M57-109-050
Travers.com - sale brochure

The sine vise weighs 20 lbs, but I can already seen an application for it.  Is
this sensible to use on a taig?

(I'll probably have to get some more hefty steppers from ballendo to move the
table around.)

Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes and pcb
milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up using the most,
and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting bits?

Thanks,
-Sebastien

HI Gangs !!!!!  A BIG thank you to all the above list gang who helped me with
info for the Dremel 595 moto tool. A call to 800.437-3635 Monday((11/27/06)
morning put me in touch with a lady who is so well informed she told all I
needed to know. Yesterday (11/30/06) in the middle of a snow storm the parts
came and one half hour later the 595 was singing like new. Thank to all exactly
that Lady at Dremel..............elmer

elmer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello all,

   I bought a complete CNC Taig mill from Nick Carter about five years
ago.  Long story short, I converted the mill back to a manual
machine.  I never used the CNC electronics, motors, etc...  They've
been sitting on a shelf for over three years, and I've decided I
don't need a CNC machine (but I want to keep the manual machine, I
love it!), so I'm looking to sell them.

   They've never been used, though I did mount the steppers on the
machine initially.

   According to current pricing, the CNC rig is about twice as
expensive as just manual machine.  Not sure what has changed since I
bought my machine (software? hardware?).

   What I guess I'm getting at is that I'd like a rough value of the
the package, so I can price it accordingly.  It'll probably go up on
eBay in the next month or so, unless I get a reasonable offer
(whatever that may be).

If you are interested contact me offlist at: jnj1097@...

   I can supply pictures of all the associated parts.  I'd also be
willing to hold onto it until after the holidays if an interested
party is short on cash.

Thanks for any help.

JB

Is this vice being used for the jewelry?

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm doing some shopping online, and I'm thinking of getting a 3"
Toolmakers
> vise.
>
> There's a 3" Wide TTC brand Toolmakers's vise for $83.16,
> M61-410-200
> or a 3" Wide Phase II brand Precision Sine Vise for $131.25
> M57-109-050
> Travers.com - sale brochure
>
> The sine vise weighs 20 lbs, but I can already seen an application
for it.  Is
> this sensible to use on a taig?
>
> (I'll probably have to get some more hefty steppers from ballendo
to move the
> table around.)
>
> Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes and
pcb
> milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up
using the most,
> and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting
bits?
>
> Thanks,
> -Sebastien
>

I got my millers from travers. They seemed very reasonable for
double ended mills.

I have HSS. I am cutting mostly wax, pewter, and the ocassional
brass, silver or aluminum. Rare ocassion steel. So the HSS works for
me.

Ball mills for 3-D contouring such as on complex 3-D surfaces on
jewelry. thats what I am goong to be using anyways for the types of
forms I am going to be creating.

Cant comment on the PCB

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm doing some shopping online, and I'm thinking of getting a 3"
Toolmakers
> vise.
>
> There's a 3" Wide TTC brand Toolmakers's vise for $83.16,
> M61-410-200
> or a 3" Wide Phase II brand Precision Sine Vise for $131.25
> M57-109-050
> Travers.com - sale brochure
>
> The sine vise weighs 20 lbs, but I can already seen an application
for it.  Is
> this sensible to use on a taig?
>
> (I'll probably have to get some more hefty steppers from ballendo
to move the
> table around.)
>
> Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes and
pcb
> milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up
using the most,
> and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting
bits?
>
> Thanks,
> -Sebastien
>

Jewelry and other things.  I realize it's overkill for just jewelry, but I'm
concerned it might be too much mass for my mill.

-Sebastien

On Friday 01 December 2006 12:09, Jason wrote:
> Is this vice being used for the jewelry?
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@...>
>
> wrote:
> > I'm doing some shopping online, and I'm thinking of getting a 3"
>
> Toolmakers
>
> > vise.
> >
> > There's a 3" Wide TTC brand Toolmakers's vise for $83.16,
> > M61-410-200
> > or a 3" Wide Phase II brand Precision Sine Vise for $131.25
> > M57-109-050
> > Travers.com - sale brochure
> >
> > The sine vise weighs 20 lbs, but I can already seen an application
>
> for it.  Is
>
> > this sensible to use on a taig?
> >
> > (I'll probably have to get some more hefty steppers from ballendo
>
> to move the
>
> > table around.)
> >
> > Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes and
>
> pcb
>
> > milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up
>
> using the most,
>
> > and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting
>
> bits?
>
> > Thanks,
> > -Sebastien

On Friday 01 December 2006 12:17, Jason wrote:
> I got my millers from travers. They seemed very reasonable for
> double ended mills.
>
> I have HSS. I am cutting mostly wax, pewter, and the ocassional
> brass, silver or aluminum. Rare ocassion steel. So the HSS works for
> me.
>
> Ball mills for 3-D contouring such as on complex 3-D surfaces on
> jewelry. thats what I am goong to be using anyways for the types of
> forms I am going to be creating.
>
> Cant comment on the PCB
>
I'm not sure what size ball mills to get for the small 3-D jewelry waxes.

For the waxes, I'll just get a couple 2-flute 1/8", 1/16", and 1/32" double
ended hss ball mills, and work from there.

For general fabrication, the "New Ballnose Carbide Endmills", at the bottom of
http://computersculpture.com/Pages/Index_Milling.html
look tempting.  They have a 12-piece assortment for $100.

-Sebastien

> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@...>
>
> wrote:
> > I'm doing some shopping online, and I'm thinking of getting a 3"
>
> Toolmakers
>
> > vise.
> >
> > There's a 3" Wide TTC brand Toolmakers's vise for $83.16,
> > M61-410-200
> > or a 3" Wide Phase II brand Precision Sine Vise for $131.25
> > M57-109-050
> > Travers.com - sale brochure
> >
> > The sine vise weighs 20 lbs, but I can already seen an application
>
> for it.  Is
>
> > this sensible to use on a taig?
> >
> > (I'll probably have to get some more hefty steppers from ballendo
>
> to move the
>
> > table around.)
> >
> > Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes and
>
> pcb
>
> > milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up
>
> using the most,
>
> > and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting
>
> bits?
>
> > Thanks,
> > -Sebastien

Those sizes seem a good start. They seem to be mostly what I use.
Carbide will be good for cutting harder materials.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@...>
wrote:
>
> On Friday 01 December 2006 12:17, Jason wrote:
> > I got my millers from travers. They seemed very reasonable for
> > double ended mills.
> >
> > I have HSS. I am cutting mostly wax, pewter, and the ocassional
> > brass, silver or aluminum. Rare ocassion steel. So the HSS works
for
> > me.
> >
> > Ball mills for 3-D contouring such as on complex 3-D surfaces on
> > jewelry. thats what I am goong to be using anyways for the types
of
> > forms I am going to be creating.
> >
> > Cant comment on the PCB
> >
> I'm not sure what size ball mills to get for the small 3-D jewelry
waxes.
>
> For the waxes, I'll just get a couple 2-flute 1/8", 1/16", and
1/32" double
> ended hss ball mills, and work from there.
>
> For general fabrication, the "New Ballnose Carbide Endmills", at
the bottom of
> http://computersculpture.com/Pages/Index_Milling.html
> look tempting.  They have a 12-piece assortment for $100.
>
> -Sebastien
>
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@>
> >
> > wrote:
> > > I'm doing some shopping online, and I'm thinking of getting a
3"
> >
> > Toolmakers
> >
> > > vise.
> > >
> > > There's a 3" Wide TTC brand Toolmakers's vise for $83.16,
> > > M61-410-200
> > > or a 3" Wide Phase II brand Precision Sine Vise for $131.25
> > > M57-109-050
> > > Travers.com - sale brochure
> > >
> > > The sine vise weighs 20 lbs, but I can already seen an
application
> >
> > for it.  Is
> >
> > > this sensible to use on a taig?
> > >
> > > (I'll probably have to get some more hefty steppers from
ballendo
> >
> > to move the
> >
> > > table around.)
> > >
> > > Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes
and
> >
> > pcb
> >
> > > milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up
> >
> > using the most,
> >
> > > and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting
> >
> > bits?
> >
> > > Thanks,
> > > -Sebastien
>

I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod ends so that
you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to adjust
the head.

Link here:

http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/

John

Hi to all,

I want to know what is the noise level at Taig (in work - cutting some
metals, plastic, wood, or others) in db units. If you know that please
post some levels. Compare this noise with some other house device
(vacc clean, wash machine). I want to run this machine in house
(apartment) and I don't want to disturb my neighbor's.

TIA

I had a shop in my apartment in California, running a Taig mill and a
MicroMark lathe.  As long as I didn't take too deep a cut, the neighbors
downstairs couldn't hear it.

Dave Goodfellow
www.good-fellow.net
"No problem too small to baffle this expert"
=============================================

-----Original Message-----
From: taigtools@yahoogroups.com [mailto:taigtools@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of balsanu_gabi
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 12:42 AM
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [taigtools] Noise level

Hi to all,

I want to know what is the noise level at Taig (in work - cutting some
metals, plastic, wood, or others) in db units. If you know that please
post some levels. Compare this noise with some other house device
(vacc clean, wash machine). I want to run this machine in house
(apartment) and I don't want to disturb my neighbor's.

TIA

Hey John,

I am farmiliar with your fixture and setup.I love your setup and it is
one of my inspirations for the project. The other being a friend whom
before I ever got the mill reccomended something similar to what I
have. I have a link to it already in my favorites. It was one of the
possible configurations that I contemplated: using a turnbuckle style
set up.

A few things steered my decision the way I went.

1st a foremost: I had aluminum and the ability to tap and fastener it
readily available and doable without outside help. This was not the
case using welded steel and such.

2nd I did not want to modify the mill from its origional form in any
way. The setup I chose is completely self contained.

3rd. I liked the idea of sandwiching it between to supports making it
impossible to move either way. Of course at the expense of some of the
ease you sytem offers for adjustment.

Both systems seem very well suited to the task. It is interesting to
see different approaches to the same task.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@...> wrote:
>
> I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod ends so that
> you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to adjust
> the head.
>
> Link here:
>
> http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/
>
> John
>

Please go check out my new pics in folder "A_underdogs projects"

I tried to post this yesterday as well for some reason it wouldnt go
through.

I had added some pics a week or so ago of my column support/tram
fixture.

I was getting some flex in my support system which was making it
harder to tram then I felt it should have been .I decided to revamp
it and set it up the way I always wanted to. It now has a base plate
for the mill that has the supports integrated into it. I lucked out
and the local distributor only had 1" stock rather than the 3/4" I
was requesting. He gave it to me at no extra charge and I am glad
for it.

It is solid as a rock now! and took all of 5 minutes to tram in to
within .001 across the 8" sweep I took. Literally

It also not holds its tram even with a nudge to the column. This was
the reason for the project in the first place. I would tram it in
and notice it could be knocked out far too easy. Tool changes and
the like had to be delicatly done.

I left a pic of the old setup in there for reference.

Also there are pics of my fourth axis, now setup as well as pics of
the whole setup.

Started making some test chips for the first time on 4th axis this
morning. Everything seems to be working well so far. The first test
was to make sure it was rotating in the correct direction As you
will notice I am setup on the opposite end(right side of table) as
you see most setups are due to the tilting angle table.

I just need to do a little more care with my cam file creation and
make something cool to cut for a real test.


--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@...> wrote:
>
> Hey John,
>
> I am farmiliar with your fixture and setup.I love your setup and
it is
> one of my inspirations for the project. The other being a friend
whom
> before I ever got the mill reccomended something similar to what I
> have. I have a link to it already in my favorites. It was one of
the
> possible configurations that I contemplated: using a turnbuckle
style
> set up.
>
> A few things steered my decision the way I went.
>
> 1st a foremost: I had aluminum and the ability to tap and fastener
it
> readily available and doable without outside help. This was not
the
> case using welded steel and such.
>
> 2nd I did not want to modify the mill from its origional form in
any
> way. The setup I chose is completely self contained.
>
> 3rd. I liked the idea of sandwiching it between to supports making
it
> impossible to move either way. Of course at the expense of some of
the
> ease you sytem offers for adjustment.
>
> Both systems seem very well suited to the task. It is interesting
to
> see different approaches to the same task.
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@> wrote:
> >
> > I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod ends so
that
> > you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to
adjust
> > the head.
> >
> > Link here:
> >
> >
http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/
> >
> > John
> >
>

balsanu_gabi wrote:
> Hi to all,
>
> I want to know what is the noise level at Taig (in work - cutting some
> metals, plastic, wood, or others) in db units. If you know that please
> post some levels. Compare this noise with some other house device
> (vacc clean, wash machine). I want to run this machine in house
> (apartment) and I don't want to disturb my neighbor's.
>

     My shop vac makes more noise than my Mill but I'm cutting mostly
plastic at this point.

Erick

This is an interesting kit.
Don't know if it was mentioned anywhere else.
I have no connection to the seller.

http://tinyurl.com/ykcfbt

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/4th-axis-kit-for-Taig-milling-
machine_W0QQitemZ270063757522QQihZ017QQcategoryZ12584QQssPageNameZWDVWQQ
rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I don't know if you will notice the same, but with the mill trammed so
accurately, all of my cuts have turned out much nicer.  A lot of the
vibration on deep cuts has also been smoothed out noticebly (probably
from the added stiffness).



--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@...> wrote:
>
> Please go check out my new pics in folder "A_underdogs projects"
>
> I tried to post this yesterday as well for some reason it wouldnt go
> through.
>
> I had added some pics a week or so ago of my column support/tram
> fixture.
>
> I was getting some flex in my support system which was making it
> harder to tram then I felt it should have been .I decided to revamp
> it and set it up the way I always wanted to. It now has a base plate
> for the mill that has the supports integrated into it. I lucked out
> and the local distributor only had 1" stock rather than the 3/4" I
> was requesting. He gave it to me at no extra charge and I am glad
> for it.
>
> It is solid as a rock now! and took all of 5 minutes to tram in to
> within .001 across the 8" sweep I took. Literally
>
> It also not holds its tram even with a nudge to the column. This was
> the reason for the project in the first place. I would tram it in
> and notice it could be knocked out far too easy. Tool changes and
> the like had to be delicatly done.
>
> I left a pic of the old setup in there for reference.
>
> Also there are pics of my fourth axis, now setup as well as pics of
> the whole setup.
>
> Started making some test chips for the first time on 4th axis this
> morning. Everything seems to be working well so far. The first test
> was to make sure it was rotating in the correct direction As you
> will notice I am setup on the opposite end(right side of table) as
> you see most setups are due to the tilting angle table.
>
> I just need to do a little more care with my cam file creation and
> make something cool to cut for a real test.
>
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey John,
> >
> > I am farmiliar with your fixture and setup.I love your setup and
> it is
> > one of my inspirations for the project. The other being a friend
> whom
> > before I ever got the mill reccomended something similar to what I
> > have. I have a link to it already in my favorites. It was one of
> the
> > possible configurations that I contemplated: using a turnbuckle
> style
> > set up.
> >
> > A few things steered my decision the way I went.
> >
> > 1st a foremost: I had aluminum and the ability to tap and fastener
> it
> > readily available and doable without outside help. This was not
> the
> > case using welded steel and such.
> >
> > 2nd I did not want to modify the mill from its origional form in
> any
> > way. The setup I chose is completely self contained.
> >
> > 3rd. I liked the idea of sandwiching it between to supports making
> it
> > impossible to move either way. Of course at the expense of some of
> the
> > ease you sytem offers for adjustment.
> >
> > Both systems seem very well suited to the task. It is interesting
> to
> > see different approaches to the same task.
> >
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod ends so
> that
> > > you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to
> adjust
> > > the head.
> > >
> > > Link here:
> > >
> > >
> http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> >
>

I've found most metalworking equipment is quieter than the equivalent
woodworking equipment.  Nothing personal against woodworking.  They just
tend to require higher speeds and tend to use universal motors and
gearboxes, which just plain tend to be loud compared to AC induction
motors and belts.

One exception to this rule is your typical wood lathe, which usually uses
an AC induction motor and a belt.  Mine does.  It's plenty quiet.

For what it's worth, Aahz is right.  I tend to use ear protection when
vacuuming the shop.  I tend not to wear ear protection when using my Taig
lathe or mill.

Tom

On Sun, 3 Dec 2006, Aahz. wrote:

> balsanu_gabi wrote:
>> Hi to all,
>>
>> I want to know what is the noise level at Taig (in work - cutting some
>> metals, plastic, wood, or others) in db units. If you know that please
>> post some levels. Compare this noise with some other house device
>> (vacc clean, wash machine). I want to run this machine in house
>> (apartment) and I don't want to disturb my neighbor's.
>>
>
>    My shop vac makes more noise than my Mill but I'm cutting mostly
> plastic at this point.
>
> Erick
>

What sort of things are you making on your mill?

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know if you will notice the same, but with the mill
trammed so
> accurately, all of my cuts have turned out much nicer.  A lot of
the
> vibration on deep cuts has also been smoothed out noticebly
(probably
> from the added stiffness).
>
>
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> >
> > Please go check out my new pics in folder "A_underdogs projects"
> >
> > I tried to post this yesterday as well for some reason it
wouldnt go
> > through.
> >
> > I had added some pics a week or so ago of my column support/tram
> > fixture.
> >
> > I was getting some flex in my support system which was making it
> > harder to tram then I felt it should have been .I decided to
revamp
> > it and set it up the way I always wanted to. It now has a base
plate
> > for the mill that has the supports integrated into it. I lucked
out
> > and the local distributor only had 1" stock rather than the 3/4"
I
> > was requesting. He gave it to me at no extra charge and I am
glad
> > for it.
> >
> > It is solid as a rock now! and took all of 5 minutes to tram in
to
> > within .001 across the 8" sweep I took. Literally
> >
> > It also not holds its tram even with a nudge to the column. This
was
> > the reason for the project in the first place. I would tram it
in
> > and notice it could be knocked out far too easy. Tool changes
and
> > the like had to be delicatly done.
> >
> > I left a pic of the old setup in there for reference.
> >
> > Also there are pics of my fourth axis, now setup as well as pics
of
> > the whole setup.
> >
> > Started making some test chips for the first time on 4th axis
this
> > morning. Everything seems to be working well so far. The first
test
> > was to make sure it was rotating in the correct direction As you
> > will notice I am setup on the opposite end(right side of table)
as
> > you see most setups are due to the tilting angle table.
> >
> > I just need to do a little more care with my cam file creation
and
> > make something cool to cut for a real test.
> >
> >
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey John,
> > >
> > > I am farmiliar with your fixture and setup.I love your setup
and
> > it is
> > > one of my inspirations for the project. The other being a
friend
> > whom
> > > before I ever got the mill reccomended something similar to
what I
> > > have. I have a link to it already in my favorites. It was one
of
> > the
> > > possible configurations that I contemplated: using a
turnbuckle
> > style
> > > set up.
> > >
> > > A few things steered my decision the way I went.
> > >
> > > 1st a foremost: I had aluminum and the ability to tap and
fastener
> > it
> > > readily available and doable without outside help. This was
not
> > the
> > > case using welded steel and such.
> > >
> > > 2nd I did not want to modify the mill from its origional form
in
> > any
> > > way. The setup I chose is completely self contained.
> > >
> > > 3rd. I liked the idea of sandwiching it between to supports
making
> > it
> > > impossible to move either way. Of course at the expense of
some of
> > the
> > > ease you sytem offers for adjustment.
> > >
> > > Both systems seem very well suited to the task. It is
interesting
> > to
> > > see different approaches to the same task.
> > >
> > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod
ends so
> > that
> > > > you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to
> > adjust
> > > > the head.
> > > >
> > > > Link here:
> > > >
> > > >
> >
http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/
> > > >
> > > > John
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I will let you know when I cut something I can gage by. I took a few
test cuts today to get the hang of the fourth axis and make sure it
was rotating the proper direction. Figuring a good way to zero it
etc. I need to get some wax rod and ill make some more test cuts and
something real.

I will have to make a straight up one sised 3D contour so I can
campare to how it was then ill let you know.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know if you will notice the same, but with the mill
trammed so
> accurately, all of my cuts have turned out much nicer.  A lot of
the
> vibration on deep cuts has also been smoothed out noticebly
(probably
> from the added stiffness).
>
>
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> >
> > Please go check out my new pics in folder "A_underdogs projects"
> >
> > I tried to post this yesterday as well for some reason it
wouldnt go
> > through.
> >
> > I had added some pics a week or so ago of my column support/tram
> > fixture.
> >
> > I was getting some flex in my support system which was making it
> > harder to tram then I felt it should have been .I decided to
revamp
> > it and set it up the way I always wanted to. It now has a base
plate
> > for the mill that has the supports integrated into it. I lucked
out
> > and the local distributor only had 1" stock rather than the 3/4"
I
> > was requesting. He gave it to me at no extra charge and I am
glad
> > for it.
> >
> > It is solid as a rock now! and took all of 5 minutes to tram in
to
> > within .001 across the 8" sweep I took. Literally
> >
> > It also not holds its tram even with a nudge to the column. This
was
> > the reason for the project in the first place. I would tram it
in
> > and notice it could be knocked out far too easy. Tool changes
and
> > the like had to be delicatly done.
> >
> > I left a pic of the old setup in there for reference.
> >
> > Also there are pics of my fourth axis, now setup as well as pics
of
> > the whole setup.
> >
> > Started making some test chips for the first time on 4th axis
this
> > morning. Everything seems to be working well so far. The first
test
> > was to make sure it was rotating in the correct direction As you
> > will notice I am setup on the opposite end(right side of table)
as
> > you see most setups are due to the tilting angle table.
> >
> > I just need to do a little more care with my cam file creation
and
> > make something cool to cut for a real test.
> >
> >
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey John,
> > >
> > > I am farmiliar with your fixture and setup.I love your setup
and
> > it is
> > > one of my inspirations for the project. The other being a
friend
> > whom
> > > before I ever got the mill reccomended something similar to
what I
> > > have. I have a link to it already in my favorites. It was one
of
> > the
> > > possible configurations that I contemplated: using a
turnbuckle
> > style
> > > set up.
> > >
> > > A few things steered my decision the way I went.
> > >
> > > 1st a foremost: I had aluminum and the ability to tap and
fastener
> > it
> > > readily available and doable without outside help. This was
not
> > the
> > > case using welded steel and such.
> > >
> > > 2nd I did not want to modify the mill from its origional form
in
> > any
> > > way. The setup I chose is completely self contained.
> > >
> > > 3rd. I liked the idea of sandwiching it between to supports
making
> > it
> > > impossible to move either way. Of course at the expense of
some of
> > the
> > > ease you sytem offers for adjustment.
> > >
> > > Both systems seem very well suited to the task. It is
interesting
> > to
> > > see different approaches to the same task.
> > >
> > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod
ends so
> > that
> > > > you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to
> > adjust
> > > > the head.
> > > >
> > > > Link here:
> > > >
> > > >
> >
http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/
> > > >
> > > > John
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Now that Spillage appears to be gone, is anyone else making a small
shell arbor in a similar vein?
-ls-

Hi Larry,

I think these guys were supplying them to spillage. They certainly have them
anyway.

http://www.positiveflow.com/taigacc.htm

Cheers,

Peter.

larrys@... wrote:
> Now that Spillage appears to be gone, is anyone else making a small
> shell arbor in a similar vein?
> -ls-
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
>
>
>
> Let the chips fly!
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

--
------------------------------------------------------------------
Web:   www.homanndesigns.com
email: homann@...
Phone: +61 421 601 665
www.homanndesigns.com/ModIO.html         - Modbus Interface Unit
www.homanndesigns.com/DigiSpeedDeal.html - DC Spindle control
www.homanndesigns.com/TurboTaig.html     - Taig Mill Upgrade board

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@...> wrote:
>
> What sort of things are you making on your mill?
I make a lot of random things.  Parts for school projects, parts for
my research, paintball stuff, small car parts.  I'm working on my ME
in mechanical engineering, and I love to design and build stuff.  Any
chance I get I'm playing with things.

John



>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@> wrote:
> >
> > I don't know if you will notice the same, but with the mill
> trammed so
> > accurately, all of my cuts have turned out much nicer.  A lot of
> the
> > vibration on deep cuts has also been smoothed out noticebly
> (probably
> > from the added stiffness).
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Please go check out my new pics in folder "A_underdogs projects"
> > >
> > > I tried to post this yesterday as well for some reason it
> wouldnt go
> > > through.
> > >
> > > I had added some pics a week or so ago of my column support/tram
> > > fixture.
> > >
> > > I was getting some flex in my support system which was making it
> > > harder to tram then I felt it should have been .I decided to
> revamp
> > > it and set it up the way I always wanted to. It now has a base
> plate
> > > for the mill that has the supports integrated into it. I lucked
> out
> > > and the local distributor only had 1" stock rather than the 3/4"
> I
> > > was requesting. He gave it to me at no extra charge and I am
> glad
> > > for it.
> > >
> > > It is solid as a rock now! and took all of 5 minutes to tram in
> to
> > > within .001 across the 8" sweep I took. Literally
> > >
> > > It also not holds its tram even with a nudge to the column. This
> was
> > > the reason for the project in the first place. I would tram it
> in
> > > and notice it could be knocked out far too easy. Tool changes
> and
> > > the like had to be delicatly done.
> > >
> > > I left a pic of the old setup in there for reference.
> > >
> > > Also there are pics of my fourth axis, now setup as well as pics
> of
> > > the whole setup.
> > >
> > > Started making some test chips for the first time on 4th axis
> this
> > > morning. Everything seems to be working well so far. The first
> test
> > > was to make sure it was rotating in the correct direction As you
> > > will notice I am setup on the opposite end(right side of table)
> as
> > > you see most setups are due to the tilting angle table.
> > >
> > > I just need to do a little more care with my cam file creation
> and
> > > make something cool to cut for a real test.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey John,
> > > >
> > > > I am farmiliar with your fixture and setup.I love your setup
> and
> > > it is
> > > > one of my inspirations for the project. The other being a
> friend
> > > whom
> > > > before I ever got the mill reccomended something similar to
> what I
> > > > have. I have a link to it already in my favorites. It was one
> of
> > > the
> > > > possible configurations that I contemplated: using a
> turnbuckle
> > > style
> > > > set up.
> > > >
> > > > A few things steered my decision the way I went.
> > > >
> > > > 1st a foremost: I had aluminum and the ability to tap and
> fastener
> > > it
> > > > readily available and doable without outside help. This was
> not
> > > the
> > > > case using welded steel and such.
> > > >
> > > > 2nd I did not want to modify the mill from its origional form
> in
> > > any
> > > > way. The setup I chose is completely self contained.
> > > >
> > > > 3rd. I liked the idea of sandwiching it between to supports
> making
> > > it
> > > > impossible to move either way. Of course at the expense of
> some of
> > > the
> > > > ease you sytem offers for adjustment.
> > > >
> > > > Both systems seem very well suited to the task. It is
> interesting
> > > to
> > > > see different approaches to the same task.
> > > >
> > > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I did something similar a few months ago, but I used rod
> ends so
> > > that
> > > > > you dont need to do any tapping.  Just turn with a wrench to
> > > adjust
> > > > > the head.
> > > > >
> > > > > Link here:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> http://engineeringhobbyist.com/projects/completed/z_column_support/
> > > > >
> > > > > John
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I have my mill in my apartment at school.  It's about as loud as
running a drill, except on deep cuts where you can get a loud low
frequency vibration.

At 01:48 04/12/2006, you wrote:
>This is an interesting kit.
>Don't know if it was mentioned anywhere else.
>I have no connection to the seller.
>
>http://tinyurl.com/ykcfbt

There's a problem with the way he's done this - the worm is fitted
directly on the stepper shaft & there is no means of controlling end
float. Unfortunately (as I discovered when I did a similar project)
stepper motors do not tolerate axial forces well - they have a curly
spring washer at the back to bias the rotor in the forward direction
& control the end float, but if you apply a large enough force to the
worm wheel (as can happen when cutting) you can cause the wheel to
rotate & compress the spring - thereby losing angular position. You
really don't want that to happen!

Doing a "proper" job on this involves a pair of opposed thrust
bearings on the worm shaft so that you don't rely on the motor to
control end float at all (which is just as well as the motor can't do
it anyway). The Sherline rotary table (for example) uses a pair of
ballraces one at each end of the worm, and has a screw to adjust for
optimum pre-load on the bearings.

Regards,
Tony

Hi John,

Nice job on the Taig column support.  I like the adjustment feature.
I've been thinking of two braces, attached to the back of the column
and then coming down to the bench at an angle.  I suppose they could
be adjustable.  The concept is similar to the diagonal bracing you
see on some of the old horizontal mills, used to help stiffen the
overarm.


Also, I enjoyed the website you and your fellow engineers have put
up.  It looks like you fellows are having a good time in the shop.

I'm getting up and running on CNC with my Taig.  I'm finding it quite
a nice little mill for model engine work.  Lots to learn.

Regards,

Chuck








--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jkeyser14" <jkeyser14@...> wrote:
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <wgleason@> wrote:
> >
> > What sort of things are you making on your mill?
> I make a lot of random things.  Parts for school projects, parts for
> my research, paintball stuff, small car parts.  I'm working on my ME
> in mechanical engineering, and I love to design and build stuff.
Any
> chance I get I'm playing with things.
>
> John
>
>
>

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Tony Jeffree <tony@...> wrote:
>
> At 01:48 04/12/2006, you wrote:
> >This is an interesting kit.
> >Don't know if it was mentioned anywhere else.
> >I have no connection to the seller.
> >
> >http://tinyurl.com/ykcfbt
>
> There's a problem with the way he's done this - the worm is fitted
> directly on the stepper shaft & there is no means of controlling end
> float. Unfortunately (as I discovered when I did a similar project)
> stepper motors do not tolerate axial forces well - they have a curly
> spring washer at the back to bias the rotor in the forward direction
> & control the end float, but if you apply a large enough force to the
> worm wheel (as can happen when cutting) you can cause the wheel to
> rotate & compress the spring - thereby losing angular position. You
> really don't want that to happen!
>
> Doing a "proper" job on this involves a pair of opposed thrust
> bearings on the worm shaft so that you don't rely on the motor to
> control end float at all (which is just as well as the motor can't do
> it anyway). The Sherline rotary table (for example) uses a pair of
> ballraces one at each end of the worm, and has a screw to adjust for
> optimum pre-load on the bearings.
>
> Regards,
> Tony
>

You are right. This design will move on heavy cuts, however I have had
very good results with this setup and it could be a starting point for
someone out there. I haven't made any cuts heavy enough yet for it to
be a problem.
There is more about this setup on my website
microtools.ca
I like my new 4th axis enough that I had a few plates water cut and
cast some zamak worm wheels.
Nope not "proper" but I'm having fun with it.:)
Thanks, Mark

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Tony Jeffree <tony@...> wrote:
>
> At 01:48 04/12/2006, you wrote:
> >This is an interesting kit.
> >Don't know if it was mentioned anywhere else.
> >I have no connection to the seller.
> >
> >http://tinyurl.com/ykcfbt
>
> There's a problem with the way he's done this - the worm is fitted
> directly on the stepper shaft & there is no means of controlling
end
> float. Unfortunately (as I discovered when I did a similar project)
> stepper motors do not tolerate axial forces well - they have a
curly
> spring washer at the back to bias the rotor in the forward
direction
> & control the end float, but if you apply a large enough force to
the
> worm wheel (as can happen when cutting) you can cause the wheel to
> rotate & compress the spring - thereby losing angular position. You
> really don't want that to happen!
>
> Doing a "proper" job on this involves a pair of opposed thrust
> bearings on the worm shaft so that you don't rely on the motor to
> control end float at all (which is just as well as the motor can't
do
> it anyway). The Sherline rotary table (for example) uses a pair of
> ballraces one at each end of the worm, and has a screw to adjust
for
> optimum pre-load on the bearings.
>
> Regards,
> Tony
>

Good observation.
I am kinda committed to harmonic gearing myself but I have a few
spare worms that I might just adapt.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Sebastien Bailard <penguin@...> wrote:

>
> Also, I'm looking to get some bits for cutting jewelry waxes and pcb
> milling/engraving.  What size and shape bits do people end up using
the most,
> and what suppliers do people recommend for these small cutting bits?
>
> Thanks,
> -Sebastien
>

Are you cutting to metal or wax/plastic/what material?
A few members make their own bits. I buy mine off ebay or

  http://www.2linc.com/
You can get similar engraving bits they sell on ebay from China but you
have to be prepared to wait at least a couple of weeks.

In the past I have used a home built vacuum table, but I scrapped that
because of the noise, unsatisfactory holding power and needs for pumps.
I use a combination of step blocks and 2-sided paper tape.

Recent I have thought about using an adaptation of a toolmakers vise or
a linear motor attached to my mill vise to get the optimum holding
power.
Low and behold there is an example on ebay but the bidding is up more
than I would like it seeing that I have enough motors and can buy a
small vise with a screw cheaper.

>
> You are right. This design will move on heavy cuts, however I have had
> very good results with this setup and it could be a starting point for
> someone out there. I haven't made any cuts heavy enough yet for it to
> be a problem.
> There is more about this setup on my website
> microtools.ca
> I like my new 4th axis enough that I had a few plates water cut and
> cast some zamak worm wheels.
> Nope not "proper" but I'm having fun with it.:)
> Thanks, Mark
>

Nice work. From the looks of it should not be hard to incorporate a
bearing for the worm shaft.

At 07:56 05/12/2006, you wrote:
>Nice work. From the looks of it should not be hard to incorporate a
>bearing for the worm shaft.

No - wouldn't be too hard. However, the critical bearing is the one
at the far end of the wormshaft - you can get away with using the one
at the front of the motor as long as you back it up with an opposing
thrust bearing at the far end of the worm. So you need an arm/bearing
support extending out from the plate to the end of the worm.
Alternatively, if you have double shafted motors you could be sneaky
and fit a thrust bearing at the back of the motor.

However, for the sake of the motor bearings (which aren't really
designed to take heavy loads), supporting the free end of the worm is
preferable, and ideally, completely decouple the worm from the motor
(via an Oldham coupling for example) and use a pair of opposed thrust bearings.

Regards,
Tony