I had heard from one of the guys doing this that is really getting
some quality product out, that he uses several layers of black over
the white and then touches up the white after engraving. Because he
uses many layers of black, he can afford to do some fine sanding that
removes a layer of black and the excess white paint that gets outside
the engraved area.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "dkp_design" <zippy@...> wrote:
>
> Here's a trick.  Paint it all black, then mask it all off with
> tape.  Then engrave the letter through the masking and black tape.
> Then, spray white and when dry, remove the tape and you will have
> white letters with black background
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "mhberkson" <mitch@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "combelis" <asi@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > To all of you interested in what I want to do, here goes:
> > >
> > > I need to make panels from CLEAR acrylic 0.23" thick.
> > > after I cut the panel for holes, shape etc',  I need to engrave.
> > > how is the engraving being done?
> > > first, I apply 3 layers of white paint on the clear acrylic.
> then I
> > > apply 2 layers of black paint. Now comes the tricky part :)
> > > I need to engrave only the black, so the final result will be a
> black
> > > panel with white letters. this panel will be backlight from
> behind.
> > > problem is that sometimes the cutter "eats" the white too ,
> leaving
> >
> > Why don't you paint one side black and the other side white?
> >
> > Mitch
> >
>

Thanks for the replies. It never ceases to amaze me how big some of the
stores available in the US are, with stocklines up to 500,000 items.
These shops must be huge.Presumably they are only in larger population
centres. I'm going to check out Peter's suggestion because there is a
bike shop just around the corner,  but I anticipate skewers for bikes
will  be designed for axles of a larger diameter than will fit in the
Taig slot. I hope I am thinking of the right part Peter, I am imagining
one of those quick wheel release levers.

If the bike part is not cheap and adaptable I will go to Woodcraft or
Lee Valley, thanks.

Chris


>Message: 2
>   Date: Tue May 30, 2006 4:02 pm (PDT)
>   From: "otisnwoo@..." otisnwoo@...
>Subject: Re: Where do I get one of these..?
>
>
>
>Yes:  "Reid Tool Supply should have them. They carry just
>about every kind of clamping device known to the engineering
>world. Their Web address is :
>
>www.reidsupply.com
>
>         Regards,
>
>            Curtis
>
>>Message: 5
>>   Date: Tue May 30, 2006 10:43 pm (PDT)
>>   From: "metal_byter" mryankey@...
>>Subject: Re: Where do I get one of these..?
>>
>>
>>Lee Valley tools has them.
>>Mark
>

In my experience, bike axle skewers for quick-releases are fairly
narrow.  Those kinds of quick-releases are also sometimes used on
seatposts and things that may be more useful size-wise.
Thinking about it, one sort should be manufacturable on a Taig-- the
basic design is a cross-drilled and threaded 'axle' pin in the 8-10mm
range that can rotate in the cam lobe, which is slotted lengthwise)
Working out the needed offset from center (alternatively, the shape of
the cam) might take a few tries.

Chris Ghent wrote:
> Thanks for the replies. It never ceases to amaze me how big some of the
> stores available in the US are, with stocklines up to 500,000 items.
> These shops must be huge.Presumably they are only in larger population
> centres. I'm going to check out Peter's suggestion because there is a
> bike shop just around the corner,  but I anticipate skewers for bikes
> will  be designed for axles of a larger diameter than will fit in the
> Taig slot. I hope I am thinking of the right part Peter, I am imagining
> one of those quick wheel release levers.
>
> If the bike part is not cheap and adaptable I will go to Woodcraft or
> Lee Valley, thanks.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>> Message: 2
>>   Date: Tue May 30, 2006 4:02 pm (PDT)
>>   From: "otisnwoo@..." otisnwoo@...
>> Subject: Re: Where do I get one of these..?
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes:  "Reid Tool Supply should have them. They carry just
>> about every kind of clamping device known to the engineering
>> world. Their Web address is :
>>
>> www.reidsupply.com
>>
>>         Regards,
>>
>>            Curtis
>>
>>
>>> Message: 5
>>>   Date: Tue May 30, 2006 10:43 pm (PDT)
>>>   From: "metal_byter" mryankey@...
>>> Subject: Re: Where do I get one of these..?
>>>
>>>
>>> Lee Valley tools has them.
>>> Mark
>>>
>
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
>
>
>
> Let the chips fly!
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

You can check the angle of the blade in relation to the part being parted by
placing a square between the part and the length of the blade. The parting
blade needs to be perpendicular to the part being cut so that the blade
doesn't rub on the side of the cut.





FBA




----Original Message Follows----
From: "gehaddad" <gehaddad@...>
Reply-To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [taigtools] Re: parting problems
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 18:52:48 -0000

Brad,

What do you mean by the parting tool should be at a right angle to the
stock?  The cutting edge?

Thanks,
George

Hi, does anybody have any plans for a free standing or any other
type of tool holder for the Taig lathe. I want to use it to make pens
and use wood tools on it.
      Thank You
          Tom

Hi Chris,

The skewer is around 1/8" diameter. It passes through the hollow axle.

What you are after is an after market aluminium skewer set. It will
probably contain 3 skewers. Front whell, back wheel and seat post.

BTW, these sets can cost anywhere from $15.00 to $150.00. Go for the
cheaper ones. :-)

BTW, I was racing once in a critirum when I heard a distinctive "Ping".
Then, the rear of the bike was very "loose". I managed to stop, and lifted
the bike to see what the problem was. As the rear wheel dropped to the
ground, the problem became clear, the skewer snapped, and the springs
ejected the 2 parts from the bike with a ping.

I 'd never heard of it happening before and never heard of it again. Just
lucky I guess. I changed the skewers every 12 months from then on. :-)

Cheers,

Peter.

Cheers,

Peter.

Chris Ghent said:
>
> Thanks for the replies. It never ceases to amaze me how big some of the
> stores available in the US are, with stocklines up to 500,000 items.
> These shops must be huge.Presumably they are only in larger population
> centres. I'm going to check out Peter's suggestion because there is a
> bike shop just around the corner,  but I anticipate skewers for bikes
> will  be designed for axles of a larger diameter than will fit in the
> Taig slot. I hope I am thinking of the right part Peter, I am imagining
> one of those quick wheel release levers.
>
> If the bike part is not cheap and adaptable I will go to Woodcraft or
> Lee Valley, thanks.
>
> Chris
>
>
>>Message: 2
>>   Date: Tue May 30, 2006 4:02 pm (PDT)
>>   From: "otisnwoo@..." otisnwoo@...
>>Subject: Re: Where do I get one of these..?
>>
>>
>>
>>Yes:  "Reid Tool Supply should have them. They carry just
>>about every kind of clamping device known to the engineering
>>world. Their Web address is :
>>
>>www.reidsupply.com
>>
>>         Regards,
>>
>>            Curtis
>>
>>>Message: 5
>>>   Date: Tue May 30, 2006 10:43 pm (PDT)
>>>   From: "metal_byter" mryankey@...
>>>Subject: Re: Where do I get one of these..?
>>>
>>>
>>>Lee Valley tools has them.
>>>Mark
>>
>
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
>
>
>
> Let the chips fly!
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi Jon,
I calculated my settings as below.

Degrees of table rotation per rotation of the shaft into the number
of steps per revolution times your microstepping.

I believe the Sherline rotary is a 72:1 ratio meaning 72 revolutions
of the crank (stepper) gives one 360 degree revolution of the table .

That gives 5 degrees for every revolution of the handle or 200 steps
of the stepper.

Break that down to 40 steps per degree by dividing 200 by 5 then
multiply it by the number of microsteps you have (8 in my case)
8 x 40 = 320
That gives 320 steps per degree to enter into Mach3

I set my speed at 3000 and my accel ramp pretty steep and it works
great.

Probably not much of an explaination as I am very sleepy.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cornia" <cochranflutes@...>
wrote:
>
> Got it running. Thanks for the suggestion on the Rotary table.
There
> was a screw loose (not in my head) that was under the shaft coupler
> that connects to the worm gear. I also adjusted the the allignment
of
> the worm gear to the wheel gear. Runs smoothly now.
> Now I just have to figure out the settings to change it into
degrees.
> Work in progress...
> Thanks,
> Jon
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cornia" <cochranflutes@>
wrote:
> >
> > Hi James,
> > I have been using it manually it does turn. The rotary table is
a
> > little stiff to turn.
> > Motor sounds fine when it is not connected.
> > What are the motor tuning settings you use?
> > Jon
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "James Holbrook"
<jdholbrook33@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Jon,
> > > There may be a problem with your rotary table. Can you turn
the
> > > rotary table shaft by hand?
> > > I'm using a similar stepper on my sherline and it sings
> > >
> > > Does the stepper sound OK when you run it disconnected from
the
> > > table?
> > >
> > > The table may be corroded inside, need lubrication or possibly
> > > adjusted too tight.
> > >
> > > That stepper should drive the rotary just fine.
> > >
> > > james
> > >
> > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cornia"
<cochranflutes@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > > I have a after market CNC Taig mill that I got off Ebay. The
4th
> > > axis
> > > > step motor Powermax II is, I believe a 115oz/in size. I
cannot
> > get
> > > it
> > > > to drive the CNC ready 4" rotary table. I am running it with
Mach
> > > III,
> > > > and have tryed different motor tunings, but it just seems to
> > wimpy
> > > for
> > > > the application. It is driven by a 4 axis microstepper
chopper
> > > board.
> > > > What is the recommended size motor for this table?  I think
the
> > > other
> > > > stepper motors are Greco 200oz/in.
> > > > I would like to have the option of manually running the
rotary
> > > table
> > > > also, so I will probalby upgrade to a two shaft motor. But
if
> > anyoe
> > > > would know sttigs to make the small motor work for now, it
would
> > be
> > > > appreciated.
> > > > The mill is awesome so far! how did I ever live without one
of
> > > these? ;o)
> > > > Jon
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

At 02:12 03/06/2006, you wrote:
>I believe the Sherline rotary is a 72:1 ratio meaning 72 revolutions
>of the crank (stepper) gives one 360 degree revolution of the table .

That is correct - definitely 72:1.

I used to drive my Sherline with an old surplus size 23 motor that couldn't
have been more than about 60 oz-in - worked great. The motor on it now is
about 100 oz-in and the table is pretty much unstoppable.

Regards,
Tony

Does anyone have a rule of thumb for converting experience determined
feed rates/depth of cut for standard end mills to ball end mills?

Secondly, how about a starting point for 1/2" end mills, both ball and
standard.  I've got some 1/2 holders and end mills coming in and I
want to get going with them asap.


Thirdly, Does it seem a bit small to only be able to cut a full width
0.040 inch cut in 6061T6 aluminum at 8ipm without stalling the spindle
using a 3/8in end mill?  I have tried on both the C or D spindle
settings and it will stall the motor (not slipping the belt) if I try
to go much faster.



thanks
Greg

Thanks! Just what I was looking for.
Jon
--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "James Holbrook" <jdholbrook33@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Jon,
> I calculated my settings as below.
>
> Degrees of table rotation per rotation of the shaft into the number
> of steps per revolution times your microstepping.
>
> I believe the Sherline rotary is a 72:1 ratio meaning 72
revolutions
> of the crank (stepper) gives one 360 degree revolution of the
table .
>
> That gives 5 degrees for every revolution of the handle or 200
steps
> of the stepper.
>
> Break that down to 40 steps per degree by dividing 200 by 5 then
> multiply it by the number of microsteps you have (8 in my case)
> 8 x 40 = 320
> That gives 320 steps per degree to enter into Mach3
>
> I set my speed at 3000 and my accel ramp pretty steep and it works
> great.
>
> Probably not much of an explaination as I am very sleepy.
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cornia" <cochranflutes@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Got it running. Thanks for the suggestion on the Rotary table.
> There
> > was a screw loose (not in my head) that was under the shaft
coupler
> > that connects to the worm gear. I also adjusted the the
allignment
> of
> > the worm gear to the wheel gear. Runs smoothly now.
> > Now I just have to figure out the settings to change it into
> degrees.
> > Work in progress...
> > Thanks,
> > Jon
> >
> > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cornia" <cochranflutes@>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi James,
> > > I have been using it manually it does turn. The rotary table is
> a
> > > little stiff to turn.
> > > Motor sounds fine when it is not connected.
> > > What are the motor tuning settings you use?
> > > Jon
> > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "James Holbrook"
> <jdholbrook33@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Jon,
> > > > There may be a problem with your rotary table. Can you turn
> the
> > > > rotary table shaft by hand?
> > > > I'm using a similar stepper on my sherline and it sings
> > > >
> > > > Does the stepper sound OK when you run it disconnected from
> the
> > > > table?
> > > >
> > > > The table may be corroded inside, need lubrication or
possibly
> > > > adjusted too tight.
> > > >
> > > > That stepper should drive the rotary just fine.
> > > >
> > > > james
> > > >
> > > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cornia"
> <cochranflutes@>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > > I have a after market CNC Taig mill that I got off Ebay.
The
> 4th
> > > > axis
> > > > > step motor Powermax II is, I believe a 115oz/in size. I
> cannot
> > > get
> > > > it
> > > > > to drive the CNC ready 4" rotary table. I am running it
with
> Mach
> > > > III,
> > > > > and have tryed different motor tunings, but it just seems
to
> > > wimpy
> > > > for
> > > > > the application. It is driven by a 4 axis microstepper
> chopper
> > > > board.
> > > > > What is the recommended size motor for this table?  I think
> the
> > > > other
> > > > > stepper motors are Greco 200oz/in.
> > > > > I would like to have the option of manually running the
> rotary
> > > > table
> > > > > also, so I will probalby upgrade to a two shaft motor. But
> if
> > > anyoe
> > > > > would know sttigs to make the small motor work for now, it
> would
> > > be
> > > > > appreciated.
> > > > > The mill is awesome so far! how did I ever live without one
> of
> > > > these? ;o)
> > > > > Jon
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

You are not going to be getting high speed cuts with 1/2" mills.
3/8" are pretty slow too. The TAig motor is a 1/4HP which is pretty
small as far as mill motors go(1/8HP if you are one of the 'lucky'
ones to get a earlier model)  I would say 8IPM with a .375" cutter is
pretty good.  I personally would be 6IPM or so, about middle belt
location.  I havn't tried any 1/2" endmills, but I have a flycutter
which is about a 2" cut with a HSS cutter.  Best speed with that
is .010" deep, 2.5IPM  3rd belt groove up from the bottom.

What I have found is that most all the feed speed charts you find on
the internet are for larger, more powerfull mills.  A Taig usually
never comes close to being able to do those feed speeds unless
spindle HP is increased alot.  I have real alot of people doing a
1.4HP treadmill motor upgrade.  I have been thinking about that
myself, but havn't found a tradmill/controller for the right price
ie:cheap

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Greg McFadden" <greg.mcfadden@...>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a rule of thumb for converting experience
determined
> feed rates/depth of cut for standard end mills to ball end mills?
>
> Secondly, how about a starting point for 1/2" end mills, both ball
and
> standard.  I've got some 1/2 holders and end mills coming in and I
> want to get going with them asap.
>
>
> Thirdly, Does it seem a bit small to only be able to cut a full
width
> 0.040 inch cut in 6061T6 aluminum at 8ipm without stalling the
spindle
> using a 3/8in end mill?  I have tried on both the C or D spindle
> settings and it will stall the motor (not slipping the belt) if I
try
> to go much faster.
>
>
>
> thanks
> Greg
>

OOPS< I forgot to add, I ususally cut with 1/4" endmills no more
than .100" per pass and 1/8" mills, .075"  Ballmills I ususally use
foro engraving lettering, but have done pocketing and take the same
swath as a endmill.  I can do 1/8" .250" deep, at 6-8IPM, but the
cut isn't that great and ther is alot of bit shift/walg with that
large of a cut on a small bit.

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Greg McFadden" <greg.mcfadden@...>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a rule of thumb for converting experience
determined
> feed rates/depth of cut for standard end mills to ball end mills?
>
> Secondly, how about a starting point for 1/2" end mills, both ball
and
> standard.  I've got some 1/2 holders and end mills coming in and I
> want to get going with them asap.
>
>
> Thirdly, Does it seem a bit small to only be able to cut a full
width
> 0.040 inch cut in 6061T6 aluminum at 8ipm without stalling the
spindle
> using a 3/8in end mill?  I have tried on both the C or D spindle
> settings and it will stall the motor (not slipping the belt) if I
try
> to go much faster.
>
>
>
> thanks
> Greg
>

What size clamp set studs and nuts fit the Taig mill?  I thought the table slots
were the same size as the lathe slots and have been buying a few small items
accordingly but I think I may mistaken on this.

C. J. Klingman
Briarcliff, TX


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

As is typical they are an odd size. 1/2" wide 1/4" thick for the bottom
of the slot, 1/4" thick x 1/4" deep for the top.
I tend to just make them from lengths of 1/4" x 1/2" CRS tapped 1/4"-20
and 10-32
http://www.cartertools.com/picture.html#MCT

C. J. Klingman wrote:
> What size clamp set studs and nuts fit the Taig mill?  I thought the table
slots were the same size as the lathe slots and have been buying a few small
items accordingly but I think I may mistaken on this.
>
> C. J. Klingman
> Briarcliff, TX


--
felice@... is Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein. See our
homepage at www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html

On Tue, 30 May 2006, Tony Jeffree wrote:

> Feast your eyes on this -
>
> http://members.shaw.ca/mryankey/taigmill.html
>
> Watch the bushing video.

That's pretty much how I've been using my mill for the last several
months, but on a much much smaller scale.

I'm dragging my feet on the construction article for this, but here's the
start of a web page for a toolbar I made for my mill:

http://vix.dyndns.org/~benedict/toolbar/index.html

The construction article will be posted on Nick's site.  (I shouldn't drag
my feet... it's a pretty straightforward idea.)

Just so you don't get the wrong idea from the article, which has no photos
and only Rhino renderings, I did actually make one of these and am
currently using it.  Works like a charm.

Nick made a suggestion I haven't been able to act on yet:  Not sure it'll
make sense until you look at the renderings, but another toolbar with
V-grooves for drills, reamers, etc. would also be useful.

I swear I'll take pictures and put them up on that site soon.

Tom

"dkp_design" <zippy@...> wrote:
> 1/4" endmills no more than .100" per pass
> 1/8" mills, .075"  Ballmills I ususally use
> 1/8" .250" deep, at 6-8IPM, but the cut isn't that great and ther is
> alot of bit shift/walg with that large of a cut on a small bit.
>
"Greg McFadden" <greg.mcfadden@> wrote:
> > Does anyone have a rule of thumb for converting experience
> determined feed rates/depth of cut for standard end mills to ball
> end mills?

Greg,

Excellent question, but since I don't have the answer, I have created
a Database so user's can add their recommend feeds & speeds to share
with the group.  Anyone is welcome to add their information to it; it
is located under the Database Section.

David

I am fairly new to CNC.  I didn't have a clue what system to use and
wanted to use flood but after watching and searching this board I went
with mist and could not be happier.  I thought it would be messy and
hard to clean but it is a snap and I use very little coolant.  I got
the nozzel and coolant from enco.  I had an air solenoid in my garage
and I use a timer I made to setup different on off cycles.  The whole
system was around $125.

Mark

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "javaguy11111" <javaguy11111@...>
wrote:
>
> I was looking at the modularhose.com website and they list several
> sizes of hose. What size of hose would be appropriate for the taig. I
> am thinking either the 1/4 or 1/2 inch, but not sure which I should go
> with.
>
> Also what type of coolants are people using with their taigs. My
> intention is to run flood. Mist sounds too messy for me.
>
> Damon
>

Added a couple of new pictures from Larry Snyder, Bob Swartzendruber and
Ryan DeBaker
An article on modifying the Taig steady rest to use ball bearings.
A link or two.

www.cartertools.com


--
felice@... is Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein. See our
homepage at www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html

hi all

a couple of days ago i bought an EMCO v10p lathe (geared head, no
milling column) and an EMCO FB2 mill (gear head, 6 speed).

both need quite some work. however, they came without manuals.

if anyone on this group happens to have the manuals, would it
possible to get a copy? (scanned/emailed or photocopied/mailed). i
will of course reimburse any expense incurred.

to save you some trouble answering i have already done the
following :
i emailed both Emco austria and blueridge. so far no response.

i read a user comment in another group saying that the manual he
bought (i think from blueridge) was both expensive and incomplete.

ebay has them, from a german seller and naturally in german which i
do not speak or read.

lathes.co.uk has them but extemely expensive.

i am awaiting confirmation of my registration to the V10 group
(relatively new with 38 members)


thanks

dan pines

p.s. i will post this on a couple of other groups as well

Can someone please define/explain what each of the 3 axes are
("X", "Y", "Z")? Which one moves the horzontal table/"bed" in and out?
How much distance in and out does the Taig mill have? Thank you all
for your help.  Sincerely,  John

X is table movement (left and right).  Positive X is to the right of your
fixture offset, negative X is to the left.  When the machine table is moving
to the left you are machining in a positive direction on X.

Y is saddle movement (front to back).  Positive Y is towards the column (in
relation to fixture offset) and negative is away from it.  When the
table/saddle is moving away from the column you are milling in a positive
direction on Y.

X and Y polarity is important in programming arcs, even if all of your
dimensional coordinates are positive or negative.

Z is head movement up/down.  Positive Z is towards the head, negative is
towards the table.  Depending upon your setup Z = 0 (reference plane) will
either be the top of the table or the top of your part.

The typical machining envelope is 9.5"X x 5.5"Y x 6"Z(reduced by tool
length) for the short table.  The long table adds 3" to the X dimension.
This envelope will be reduced by anything that hangs off the back of the
table.


On 6/11/06, johnechternach <johnechternach@...> wrote:
>
>    Can someone please define/explain what each of the 3 axes are
> ("X", "Y", "Z")? Which one moves the horzontal table/"bed" in and out?
> How much distance in and out does the Taig mill have? Thank you all
> for your help. Sincerely, John
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Stout" <kingshouse41225@...>
wrote:
>
> X is table movement (left and right).  Positive X is to the right
of your
> fixture offset, negative X is to the left.  When the machine table
is moving
> to the left you are machining in a positive direction on X.
>
> Y is saddle movement (front to back).  Positive Y is towards the
column (in
> relation to fixture offset) and negative is away from it.  When the
> table/saddle is moving away from the column you are milling in a
positive
> direction on Y.
>
> X and Y polarity is important in programming arcs, even if all of
your
> dimensional coordinates are positive or negative.
>
> Z is head movement up/down.  Positive Z is towards the head,
negative is
> towards the table.  Depending upon your setup Z = 0 (reference
plane) will
> either be the top of the table or the top of your part.
>
> The typical machining envelope is 9.5"X x 5.5"Y x 6"Z(reduced by
tool
> length) for the short table.  The long table adds 3" to the X
dimension.
> This envelope will be reduced by anything that hangs off the back
of the
> table.
>
>
> On 6/11/06, johnechternach <johnechternach@...> wrote:
> >
> >    Can someone please define/explain what each of the 3 axes are
> > ("X", "Y", "Z")? Which one moves the horzontal table/"bed" in
and out?
> > How much distance in and out does the Taig mill have? Thank you
all
> > for your help. Sincerely, John
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Doug, thank you very much for your explanation! I think I can follow
some of these posts now.  Sincerely, John

I am finally cutting some metal with my cnc mill. Overall I am quite
happy with the results. As I have seen in other posts, there are
toolmarks that I would like to remove.
From other posts it looks like I need to to some polishing. However I
do not know the first thing about polishing for a finish.
I did do some searching on google but I could not find anything like a
polishing for newbies site.
Are there any books or references on the net for how polish?

Note: forwarded message attached.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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At 12:15 AM 6/12/2006, you wrote:

>Note: forwarded message attached.

Not anymore.  Yahoo newsgroups don't allow attachments in postings.

It can be a PITA, but that's just the way it is.

   = Rich =

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Dan

Try Tony Griffiths at http://www.lathes.co.uk looking at his section
on manuals he has:-

ME351F Emco Emcomat/Maximat V10P Lathe. (& Mentor V10P) power-cross
feed models: Operator's Instruction Manual (including use of the 4-
Speed milling head) and electrical diagrams. Covers the power cross
feed model and includes a copy of the maker's sales catalogue
detailing the specification and showing all the accessories. £25 US$44

ME351G Emco Emcomat/Maximat V10P Lathe. (& Mentor V10P) power-cross
feed models: Parts Manuals as useful Exploded-component Diagrams
(including the 4-speed Milling Head). £25 US$44

ME352 Emco FB2 (and MENTOR) Vertical Milling Machine: Combined
Operator's' Instruction Manual and Parts Manuals shown as useful
Exploded-component Diagrams. Includes a copy of the maker's Sales &
Accessories Catalogue. Includes details of both 4 and 6-speed
versions. £35 US$58

Not cheap but copies are first class quality and delivery very fast.
Frankly I'm happy to pay a bit more to support the lathes.co website
and all the useful information therein.

Clive

Hey all,

I am completely new to the CNC world, but purchased my first small
taig CNC milling machine the other day to make small prototypes.
Definitely have a lot to learn and am excited about putting the system
together, but was wondering if anyone knew where I could purchase a
small sound proof enclosure for the Mill. Will be using it in garage
but would like something to cover it not only to protect anyone from
scraps that might fly, but also to reduce the noise so I don't bother
others. Have seen a couple of demo's and when the mill machines
aluminum it makes a lot of noise. Anyways any thoughts or direction
would be extremely appreciated. Probably could mill my own encloser,
but at this point am so new, would rather purchased something that I
know would reduce the noise and possiblity of bothering
family/friends/neighbors, than trying to build one myself. Regardless,
hope all is well and look forward to hearing from you soon!

Sincerely,
Dave

Try to find a computer salvage/surplus outlet...

Old line printers had sound deadening enclosures that were fairly large.
Many I worked on had clear see-thru tops and swing out doors on the front.

Otherwise, check stereo speaker building suppliers for a washable
acoustic liner material... and build you own enclosure.

Paul, Central OR

*****

davidjaypark wrote:

>Hey all,
>
>I am completely new to the CNC world, but purchased my first small
>taig CNC milling machine the other day to make small prototypes.
>Definitely have a lot to learn and am excited about putting the system
>together, but was wondering if anyone knew where I could purchase a
>small sound proof enclosure for the Mill. Will be using it in garage
>but would like something to cover it not only to protect anyone from
>scraps that might fly, but also to reduce the noise so I don't bother
>others. Have seen a couple of demo's and when the mill machines
>aluminum it makes a lot of noise. Anyways any thoughts or direction
>would be extremely appreciated. Probably could mill my own encloser,
>but at this point am so new, would rather purchased something that I
>know would reduce the noise and possiblity of bothering
>family/friends/neighbors, than trying to build one myself. Regardless,
>hope all is well and look forward to hearing from you soon!
>
>Sincerely,
>Dave
>
>
>
>
>
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