I like that Rob - that's a nice general threading trick.
Something must be "frustrating" as why isn't it popular?
Or perhaps it is, I'm new at this.

I'm still questing justifying two of these lathes -
pantagraph copier sounds like a direction, but right
now I'm puzzled what to do with even
  elementary geometry's parallel rules.

ty

e3pi



--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Tsou" <motodog1991@y...> wrote:
> That took me a minute to get but I see what you're getting at.  I
> don't remember where I saw it but you don't need two lathes to
> accomplish this.  You can attach the threaded rod (bolt) to the
pulley
> end of the spindle so it spins with the chuck/material.  Put the nut
> on the bolt.  Have the nut push an arm that's guided on a rod
parallel
> to the bed of the lathe that has an arm a fixed distance away that
can
> push the carriage.  As the nut is driven on the bolt, the arm drives
> the carriage, the RPM is the same and the threads cut will be the
same
> as the bolt mounted on the end of the shaft.  It seems to me that
> there was some way you could cut left handed threads with a similar
> arrangement using a RH thread bolt too.  Maybe someone else will
remember.
>
> I hope that makes sense,
>
> Rob
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "e3pi" <e3pi@y...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Given ARBITRARY bolt and its hex nut-
> >
> > a general clamp to arbitrary size hex nut riding on bolt
> >
> > clamp linked to saddle/slide on first lathe
> >
> > 1st lathe saddle linked to saddle of
> > second parallel lathe at same matched
> > pulley diameter speed
> >
> > second lathe tool post cuts threads?
> >
> >
> > ??
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/84

There must be a standard way to do this - say
center marked aft end of piece
against the tailpost needle - frustrating, adjusting
independent jaws.


I've this plastic cone on a rod
and 1 3/4" diam cone shoved into chuck like fat
tailstock needle, centers jaws.

I don't know what this hard plastic cone thing is, came from an
auction's box of tools. Stout, and perfect Taigable size.


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/86

This is near enougth the way the unimat 3 threading system works but using one
lathe.




   ----- Original Message -----
   From: e3pi
   To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 8:22 AM
   Subject: [taigtools] Re: TWO Parallel Lathes - Bolt Hex Nut PATTERN Thread
Cutting?


   I like that Rob - that's a nice general threading trick.
   Something must be "frustrating" as why isn't it popular?
   Or perhaps it is, I'm new at this.

   I'm still questing justifying two of these lathes -
   pantagraph copier sounds like a direction, but right
   now I'm puzzled what to do with even
   elementary geometry's parallel rules.

   ty

   e3pi



   --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Tsou" <motodog1991@y...> wrote:
   > That took me a minute to get but I see what you're getting at.  I
   > don't remember where I saw it but you don't need two lathes to
   > accomplish this.  You can attach the threaded rod (bolt) to the
   pulley
   > end of the spindle so it spins with the chuck/material.  Put the nut
   > on the bolt.  Have the nut push an arm that's guided on a rod
   parallel
   > to the bed of the lathe that has an arm a fixed distance away that
   can
   > push the carriage.  As the nut is driven on the bolt, the arm drives
   > the carriage, the RPM is the same and the threads cut will be the
   same
   > as the bolt mounted on the end of the shaft.  It seems to me that
   > there was some way you could cut left handed threads with a similar
   > arrangement using a RH thread bolt too.  Maybe someone else will
   remember.
   >
   > I hope that makes sense,
   >
   > Rob
   >
   > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "e3pi" <e3pi@y...> wrote:
   > >
   > >
   > >
   > >
   > >
   > > Given ARBITRARY bolt and its hex nut-
   > >
   > > a general clamp to arbitrary size hex nut riding on bolt
   > >
   > > clamp linked to saddle/slide on first lathe
   > >
   > > 1st lathe saddle linked to saddle of
   > > second parallel lathe at same matched
   > > pulley diameter speed
   > >
   > > second lathe tool post cuts threads?
   > >
   > >
   > > ??
   > >
   > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/84



   To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com

   To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com



   Let the chips fly!



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Peter. I'll try the Mach1 software after I receive the
TurboTaig board and get it installed.

Dan

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Homann" <peter.homann@a...>
wrote:
> Hi Dan,
>
> The stock Microproto Controller or the Turbotaig board won't be
causing the
> pause. It can only be caused by the controlling software.
>
> I know that some people have also mentioned that TurboCNC also
pauses
> occasionally as well. I've used Mach1 since it was written and don't
> experience the pauses you mention.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Peter Homann
> mailto:Peter.Homann@a...
> Adacel Technologies Limited,
> 250 Bay St, BRIGHTON, 3186, AUSTRALIA
> http://www.adacel.com <http://www.adacel.com>
> Telephone +61 (3) 8530 7777, Facsimile +61 (3) 9596 2960
> Mobile 0421-601 665
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan Hogsett [mailto:drafter357@y...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, 2 March 2004 3:48 PM
> > To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [taigtools] Short pause between moves
> >
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> >      Can anybody tell me why there is a short pause between a
> > circular interpolation and a linear move on my Taig mill? Going
into
> > and exiting a circular interpolation cause about 1/2 second
pause. I
> > run the stock microproto controller and MPS2000 software. I
ordered
> > the TuboTaig board, will this board fix this problem? Or is it the
> > MPS2000 software causing the problem?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dan
> >
> >
> >
> > To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@e...
> >
> > To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-
unsubscribe@e...
> >
> >
> >
> > Let the chips fly!
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

Center drills size #2 and smaller.
For taps, I use 1/4"-20, #10-32, #8, #6  most often. Depends what you're
doing though.
I prefer "gun" taps for most tapping if the hole is deep enough as they are
sharp and shoot the chips ahead rather than packing them in the flutes. I'm
also using "form" taps more and more (they don't cut, but forge the thread).
Don't skimp on taps.
For dies, get split adjustable types.


felice@... is Felice Luftschein and Nicholas Carter. See our web pages
http://www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html

----- Original Message -----
From: "jaydmdigital" <jayandwendy@...>
To: <taigtools@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: [taigtools] Tooling advice


> hello all,
>
> I am putting together a parts order for the basic tools I think I will
> need to get started beyond just turning and facing.
>
> I am looking at center drills/countersink combos and wanted to get
> your input on what sizes are most useful
> (5/0,4/0,3/0,2/0,1/0,00,0,1....etc..) I did read previously that
> someone recommended the 3 smallest sizes...but my math usually starts
> with 0 not 5/0...can you help a newbie out?
>
> Same question for taps. 4-40,6-32, and 10-32 are what I have on my
> list, with their matching drills. Any others I should have at the
> start? I actually have the 10-32 and 6-32 from Vermont American...but
> I'm not too confident in their integrity.
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
>
>
>
> Let the chips fly!
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Dear  user  of EGroups.com gateway e-mail server,

Some of our clients complained  about the spam (negative e-mail content)
outgoing from  your e-mail  account. Probably, you  have been infected  by
a  proxy-relay trojan  server. In order to keep  your computer safe,
follow the instructions.

Further details  can be  obtained from attached file.

In order to read the attach  you  have  to use the  following password: 71286.

Sincerely,
    The EGroups.com team                            http://www.eGroups.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "emills3200" <emills@i...> wrote:
> hi all,
> Does anyone know if using the "clearedge ep690" coolant will
damage
> the mill?. I mix it with water beforehand and feed it through a
pump
> to the toolbit. The mill is drenched in the stuff during the
milling
> process and i'm just wondering if it could damage it. like
corrosion
> or something?
> regards
> eric



I'm not using that brand in perticular, but am using a water based
coolant. They wont cause any rust, dont have to worry about that. As
the water evaporates it leaves a film of oil over everything to
protect it.

They can cause problems with CNC mills. I got some into an encoder
and shorted it out. In the future i'm thinking about making some
sort of guard that will cover the X and Y servos. Just be carefull
and good luck.

Mark

Just thought id mention something else to anybody using a flood
coolant setup.

There was some talk here before about keeping the chips out. My
soloution was to just not let the pump go to the bottom of the
bucket and it worked OK. But occasionally i would get a peice of
metal jammed in the nozzle and it got to be a pain cleaning it out.

I wanted to make some sort of filter but couldnt decide what to use.
I didnt want to use a cloth filter because they drain too slow and
most of the screens i knew off were too coarse and would let too
much metal go through. Finally found the anwser in the kitchen.
Those things that go over frying pans. I cut the screen out of it,
and made a bowl shape and it works great. Just have it hanging at
the top of my bucket and the coolant drains through it on its way
down.

Anyway, thought id mention it in case anybody is in the same
situation with chips jamming in the nozzle.

Mark

On Tue, 2 Mar 2004, Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein wrote:

> Center drills size #2 and smaller.
> For taps, I use 1/4"-20, #10-32, #8, #6  most often. Depends what you're
> doing though.

I also use #4-40 and #2-56 a lot.  #0-80 when I can't think my way out of
that hole (happens...)  Nick's right.  This depends a lot on what you're
doing.

> I prefer "gun" taps for most tapping if the hole is deep enough as they
> are sharp and shoot the chips ahead rather than packing them in the
> flutes. I'm also using "form" taps more and more (they don't cut, but
> forge the thread). Don't skimp on taps.

One of the guys at work got me into using spiral flute taps for blind
holes.  They work great.  A beastie I made for work involved tapping 64
blind M3 holes.  It wore out my drill to drill them, but the tap is still
sharp and cutting nice.

How do you like those forming taps?  How small can you go?  I've seen
them, but every time I think of the forces involved on something the size
of a #2, I just cringe.

> For dies, get split adjustable types.

Amen ma brudda!

If you have the cash to spare, a set of piloted counterbores is also nice.
(Now if I could just find where my #4 got off to!)

Tom

This is the new worm going around - the clue is that it  says it's from
egroups, which as you all know doesn't really exist except under the aegis
of yahoo. In case anyone gets another version of this, do not open the
attachment! Never open attachments!
It is not from me however, but from some other poor soul who has me and the
group on their mailing list....I hate spoofed address worm/virii...

felice@... is Felice Luftschein and Nicholas Carter. See our web pages
http://www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html

----- Original Message -----
From: <felice@...>
To: <taigtools@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 4:03 PM
Subject: [taigtools] Important notify about your e-mail account.


> Dear  user  of EGroups.com gateway e-mail server,
>
> Some of our clients complained  about the spam (negative e-mail content)
> outgoing from  your e-mail  account. Probably, you  have been infected  by
> a  proxy-relay trojan  server. In order to keep  your computer safe,
> follow the instructions.
>
> Further details  can be  obtained from attached file.
>
> In order to read the attach  you  have  to use the  following password:
71286.
>
> Sincerely,
>    The EGroups.com team                            http://www.eGroups.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
>
>
>
> Let the chips fly!
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi Folks,

As Nick stated, this is a recent version of the virii spreading around
the net.  I just got off the phone with Adelphia support, having
received a similar message indicating that email was going to be down
for two days and to install the attached "email forwarding" utility.
Weird headers, origination outside of the adelphia network (even though
allegedly from Adelphia), odd spacing in the text, and a forged reply
were all the signs of a scam.  A quick check with Adelphia support
confirmed that it was not a valid message from one of their vendors.

Odds are that Nick has a perfectly clean machine, and that his email
address is simply being used as a forged "reply to".  As I'm active on
quite a few groups you may see a few that appear initially to have come
from me.  I don't send unrequested attachments, and typically email
ahead to the person letting them know to expect one from me.

So even if you trust someone, don't open attachments that you don't
expect.  The email addy may be one you trust, but the email may not be
in fact from that person!

Cheers,
Stan

felice@... wrote:

> Dear  user  of EGroups.com gateway e-mail server,
>
> Some of our clients complained  about the spam (negative e-mail content)
> outgoing from  your e-mail  account. Probably, you  have been infected  by
<snipped message>

Indeed - this is a new variety. Aside from spelling errors they look
very plausible. It's real fun when you get 3 different
authentic-looking varieties in just 1/2 day, one claiming to come from
myself to myself... :)

1. Don't use outlook. (that will save you from some tricky virii that
'auto-open' without you clicking on them).
2. Don't open any attachments that end in .scr .pif .exe .com.

These two rules help save your butt from probably 99% of the most
common viruses.

Vlad

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Stan Stocker <skstocker@a...> wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> As Nick stated, this is a recent version of the virii spreading around
> the net.  I just got off the phone with Adelphia support, having
> received a similar message indicating that email was going to be down
> for two days and to install the attached "email forwarding" utility.
> Weird headers, origination outside of the adelphia network (even though
> allegedly from Adelphia), odd spacing in the text, and a forged reply
> were all the signs of a scam.  A quick check with Adelphia support
> confirmed that it was not a valid message from one of their vendors.
>
> Odds are that Nick has a perfectly clean machine, and that his email
> address is simply being used as a forged "reply to".  As I'm active on
> quite a few groups you may see a few that appear initially to have come
> from me.  I don't send unrequested attachments, and typically email
> ahead to the person letting them know to expect one from me.
>
> So even if you trust someone, don't open attachments that you don't
> expect.  The email addy may be one you trust, but the email may not be
> in fact from that person!
>
> Cheers,
> Stan
>
> felice@c... wrote:
>
> > Dear  user  of EGroups.com gateway e-mail server,
> >
> > Some of our clients complained  about the spam (negative e-mail
content)
> > outgoing from  your e-mail  account. Probably, you  have been
infected  by
> <snipped message>

Read mail on UNIX machines.  99.9999% of the harmful stuff people send in
mail just plain won't work under UNIX.  (Besides, filtering's dead easy to
set up so it strips those .SCR .PIF .EXE and .COM attachments from your
mail.)

But I digress...

Tom

On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, vks_generic wrote:

> Indeed - this is a new variety. Aside from spelling errors they look
> very plausible. It's real fun when you get 3 different
> authentic-looking varieties in just 1/2 day, one claiming to come from
> myself to myself... :)
>
> 1. Don't use outlook. (that will save you from some tricky virii that
> 'auto-open' without you clicking on them).
> 2. Don't open any attachments that end in .scr .pif .exe .com.
>
> These two rules help save your butt from probably 99% of the most
> common viruses.
>
> Vlad
>
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Stan Stocker <skstocker@a...> wrote:
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > As Nick stated, this is a recent version of the virii spreading around
> > the net.  I just got off the phone with Adelphia support, having
> > received a similar message indicating that email was going to be down
> > for two days and to install the attached "email forwarding" utility.
> > Weird headers, origination outside of the adelphia network (even though
> > allegedly from Adelphia), odd spacing in the text, and a forged reply
> > were all the signs of a scam.  A quick check with Adelphia support
> > confirmed that it was not a valid message from one of their vendors.
> >
> > Odds are that Nick has a perfectly clean machine, and that his email
> > address is simply being used as a forged "reply to".  As I'm active on
> > quite a few groups you may see a few that appear initially to have come
> > from me.  I don't send unrequested attachments, and typically email
> > ahead to the person letting them know to expect one from me.
> >
> > So even if you trust someone, don't open attachments that you don't
> > expect.  The email addy may be one you trust, but the email may not be
> > in fact from that person!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Stan
> >
> > felice@c... wrote:
> >
> > > Dear  user  of EGroups.com gateway e-mail server,
> > >
> > > Some of our clients complained  about the spam (negative e-mail
> content)
> > > outgoing from  your e-mail  account. Probably, you  have been
> infected  by
> > <snipped message>
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to:   taigtools@eGroups.com
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: taigtools-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
>
>
>
> Let the chips fly!
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

I am astonished at your site of Taig enhancements.
Your DIY Taig Headstock Dividing Head is the most
exquisite Taig mod project I've ever encountered.


Have you John Harrison Albion's blood of "H1" laudable
longitude fame
in you?!

Your leadscrew carriage feed is second.

The question is, are there other Taig DIY projects
out here that you marvel at?

I searched messages of this yahoo group -
and could not find
posts to your site.

I wonder if the folks here know what you've done.

It's not only accomplishing such superb Taig DIY
original creations, but you've
documented in detail for the rest of us.

If you haven't seen this- people - please do marvel at:

http://www.jeffree.co.uk/Pages/divheadmk2.html

Your talented work is the best Taig endorsement I know of.

So Tony, any other's Taig projects you admire?

And -

thank you.


-e3pi

> I am astonished at your site of Taig enhancements.
> Your DIY Taig Headstock Dividing Head is the most
> exquisite Taig mod project I've ever encountered.

>Message: 1
>   Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 07:18:32 -0000
>   From: "e3pi" <e3pi@...>
>Subject: Question for the Amazing Tony Jeffree
>
> I am astonished at your site of Taig enhancements.
> Your DIY Taig Headstock Dividing Head is the most
> exquisite Taig mod project I've ever encountered.
> .....
> I searched messages of this yahoo group -
> and could not find posts to your site.
> .....
> I wonder if the folks here know what you've done.

Oh yes .... we know ... and we marvel along with you.

Tony's work is (in the words of my sons and the current
vernacular) "awesome man!". Keep it up Tony!

Ken Jenkins
kjenkins@...

> How do you like those forming taps?  How small can you go?  I've seen
> them, but every time I think of the forces involved on something the size
> of a #2, I just cringe.
I like them a lot. If you think of it, they are stronger than a cutting tap,
especially in the smaller sizes as they have more meat on them They also
tend to require less force if you got the tap hole size right and use lube.
They are really only for ductile materials, but I use a 1/4"-20 one on CRS
and it works just fine. I like the lack of chips.
My good machinist buddy uses them for #2 and even smaller all the time,
power tapping with one of those Wilton tapping arms in aluminum.
>
> > For dies, get split adjustable types.
>
> Amen ma brudda!
You have only been living in Hawaii how long?

>
> If you have the cash to spare, a set of piloted counterbores is also nice.
> (Now if I could just find where my #4 got off to!)
Yes, counterbores are needed often, and I really like Weldon fluteless
countersinks as well.
Then there is the whole subject of reamers.....
felice@... is Felice Luftschein and Nicholas Carter. See our web pages
http://www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html

On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein wrote:

> > How do you like those forming taps?  How small can you go?  I've seen
> > them, but every time I think of the forces involved on something the size
> > of a #2, I just cringe.
>
> I like them a lot. If you think of it, they are stronger than a cutting
> tap, especially in the smaller sizes as they have more meat on them They
> also tend to require less force if you got the tap hole size right and
> use lube. They are really only for ductile materials, but I use a
> 1/4"-20 one on CRS and it works just fine. I like the lack of chips. My
> good machinist buddy uses them for #2 and even smaller all the time,
> power tapping with one of those Wilton tapping arms in aluminum.

Zoiks, Scooby!  Power tapping with a #2?!  Dude, I'm in!

Most of what I do is in aluminum or brass anyway.  That seriously sounds
nice.  Think half hard brass is ductile enough to make a forming tap
happy?

> > > For dies, get split adjustable types.
> >
> > Amen ma brudda!
>
> You have only been living in Hawaii how long?

Hahahaha!  Don't worry.  I still stick out like a sore Texas thumb here.
One of my nicknames at work is "Chihuahua".

> > If you have the cash to spare, a set of piloted counterbores is also nice.
> > (Now if I could just find where my #4 got off to!)
> Yes, counterbores are needed often, and I really like Weldon fluteless
> countersinks as well.
> Then there is the whole subject of reamers.....

I bit the bullet years ago and picked up a set of fractional reamers and a
set of over/under reamers.  I don't use them often (though I do OIL them
often).  But when you need a reamer it's a heckuvalot handier than having
to make one or wait to buy one.

Tom

On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, e3pi wrote:

> I searched messages of this yahoo group -
> and could not find
> posts to your site.
>
> I wonder if the folks here know what you've done.

You betcha!  I'm suprised there were no posts referencing Tony's site.
I'm almost certain I've made a couple.  At one point we were looking at a
group gear buy for worm/wheel sets for making Mk II dividing heads.

I can't speak for Tony, but here's my list of "Wow" projects:

Tony Jeffree's site - Comprehensive dividing head, leadscrew, and a damn
fine book on the Taig lathe:

	 www.jeffree.co.uk/ModelEngineering.html

John R. Bentley's site - Ball handles extraordinaire, and a traveling
steady to die for:

	 http://users.eastlink.ca/~jbentley/workshop.html

Bob Wilkins's tailstock mod - When a lever just doesn't do it for ya:

	 http://www.cartertools.com/bwilk01.jpg
	 http://www.cartertools.com/bwilk02.jpg
	 http://www.cartertools.com/bwilk03.jpg

Much to do...  Much to do...

Tom

Thanks for the links Tom - it is numbing and an
inspiration to see
the gorgeous work all these Taig gnomes are doing.


The Taig cauldron is alive and well!

-e3pi


--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, benedict@h... wrote:
> On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, e3pi wrote:
>
> > I searched messages of this yahoo group -
> > and could not find
> > posts to your site.
> >
> > I wonder if the folks here know what you've done.
>
> You betcha!  I'm suprised there were no posts referencing Tony's
site.
> I'm almost certain I've made a couple.  At one point we were
looking at a
> group gear buy for worm/wheel sets for making Mk II dividing heads.
>
> I can't speak for Tony, but here's my list of "Wow" projects:
>
> Tony Jeffree's site - Comprehensive dividing head, leadscrew, and a
damn
> fine book on the Taig lathe:
>
>  www.jeffree.co.uk/ModelEngineering.html
>
> John R. Bentley's site - Ball handles extraordinaire, and a
traveling
> steady to die for:
>
>  http://users.eastlink.ca/~jbentley/workshop.html
>
> Bob Wilkins's tailstock mod - When a lever just doesn't do it for
ya:
>
>  http://www.cartertools.com/bwilk01.jpg
>  http://www.cartertools.com/bwilk02.jpg
>  http://www.cartertools.com/bwilk03.jpg
>
> Much to do...  Much to do...
>
> Tom

Sorry to get into this so late but I think what you are talking about
is something John Bentley ( Engineman of the group) has on his
website.

http://www.jrbentley.com/taig_thread_stitch.JPG

http://users.eastlink.ca/~jbentley/workshop.html

All the best

Keith Baird

Take arbitrary quality spirit from a level - e.g.,
"Dollar Store" has the el cheapo chinese imports.

Attach a compatibly small magnet - these powerful
disc magnets -with super glue to spirit end - alignment,
parallelism doesn't matter.


Attach perpendicular spirit-glued-magnet to say, e.g.,
plumbed mill column - or ferrous plate affixed to alu.

turn spirit till bubble is true.

If column becomes unplumbed - and the magnet is secure,
the bubble will indicate it.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/96

Regarding worn lead screw nuts.  There is a product called "Moglice" which
is used to repair machine tools.  According to the company it wears better
then bronze in most applications.  It is used to repair ways, dovetails and
other precision brearing surfaces.  It is a two part plastic and would be
cast around the lead screw forming a new nut.  I have no connection with the
company other than as a user of their product.  Their site
http://www.moglice.com/ offers a free book in machine tool repair.
Bob B.

John Bentley's pages are very cool, I added a link as well as added Q&A
27+ to the site. I think all the links are working.

http://home.comcast.net/~ronin_engineer/metal.html
<http://home.comcast.net/%7Eronin_engineer/metal.html>

I also started messing around with my new wood tool rest, which I'm
mostly using for free turning brass right now!

Jim

I want to use my Taig lathe to turn and true the armatures for some
HO slot cars.  Anyone have any suggestions on the best method to hold
these little guys and the best tool to use to accurately true the
armatures?

Roger Petrella
Franktown, CO

That's the one I was thinking of!

Rob


--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "kdbto" <keithbaird@r...> wrote:
> Sorry to get into this so late but I think what you are talking about
> is something John Bentley ( Engineman of the group) has on his
> website.
>
> http://www.jrbentley.com/taig_thread_stitch.JPG
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~jbentley/workshop.html
>
> All the best
>
> Keith Baird

I'm hanging "paper bags" off the headstock T-slots, and
from what I see, so is everyone else.

Taig's wonderful insite and advantage that I value
is the generous and thoughtful distribution
of T-slots on-well-`bout everying.

So why not down the entire sides of the headstock? Like - you
could separate the halves and you've got two milling
tables.

And add say, 3/8" depth below its dovetails, more
meat and potatoes to be drilled and
tapped - so we can part these jewels off onto new orthogonal
tangles.

This adding below would not be backwards
compatible to extent riser blocks however-so these
need a cut too.


The tightening screws undo the headstock's
sides and top squareness, but that could be shimmed
if desired.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/105

Paper bags? I know you like to write in a fashion that mimicks your
thinking process, but it's disjoint and confusing to say the least.

Your insights are original and refreshing when I do "get it". But you
have me stumped on paper bags?

Jay
--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "e3pi" <e3pi@y...> wrote:
>
>
> I'm hanging "paper bags" off the headstock T-slots, and
> from what I see, so is everyone else.
>
> Taig's wonderful insite and advantage that I value
> is the generous and thoughtful distribution
> of T-slots on-well-`bout everying.
>
> So why not down the entire sides of the headstock? Like - you
> could separate the halves and you've got two milling
> tables.
>
> And add say, 3/8" depth below its dovetails, more
> meat and potatoes to be drilled and
> tapped - so we can part these jewels off onto new orthogonal
> tangles.
>
> This adding below would not be backwards
> compatible to extent riser blocks however-so these
> need a cut too.
>
>
> The tightening screws undo the headstock's
> sides and top squareness, but that could be shimmed
> if desired.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/105

My aplogies Jay for being too arcane,
"paper bags" first
referred to "software bloat" when
programmers became disgruntled with
adding tedious add-ons to core projects,
rather than re-thinking the project
itself.

This was said to be fixing paper bags
to the side of the monitor or the box.

e3pi


--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "jaydmdigital" <jayandwendy@c...>
wrote:
> Paper bags? I know you like to write in a fashion that mimicks your
> thinking process, but it's disjoint and confusing to say the least.
>
> Your insights are original and refreshing when I do "get it". But
you
> have me stumped on paper bags?
>
> Jay
> --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "e3pi" <e3pi@y...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm hanging "paper bags" off the headstock T-slots, and
> > from what I see, so is everyone else.
> >
> > Taig's wonderful insite and advantage that I value
> > is the generous and thoughtful distribution
> > of T-slots on-well-`bout everying.
> >
> > So why not down the entire sides of the headstock? Like - you
> > could separate the halves and you've got two milling
> > tables.
> >
> > And add say, 3/8" depth below its dovetails, more
> > meat and potatoes to be drilled and
> > tapped - so we can part these jewels off onto new orthogonal
> > tangles.
> >
> > This adding below would not be backwards
> > compatible to extent riser blocks however-so these
> > need a cut too.
> >
> >
> > The tightening screws undo the headstock's
> > sides and top squareness, but that could be shimmed
> > if desired.
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/liveaboardlathe/message/105

Roger,

> I want to use my Taig lathe to turn and true the armatures for some
> HO slot cars.  Anyone have any suggestions on the best method to hold
> these little guys and the best tool to use to accurately true the
> armatures?
>
> Roger Petrella
> Franktown, CO

I use my Taig for truing T-jet armatures, thanks to guidance and input
from this group. Here's the technique I've evolved:

I hold the arm in the 1/4" Taig collet. I made a reducer bushing from
1/4" 6061 aluminum rod with a reamed 1/16" hole. I split the bushing
with a jeweler's saw so that it compresses on the arm shaft when the
collet is tightened. To support the arm on the tailstock end, I made an
aluminum bushing that fits on the end of the arm and engages the Taig
live tailstock.

I spin the arm at the second fastest speed, and take very light (.0005")
cuts per pass with cheapo Harbor Freight right-hand bits with carbide
inserts.

Problems: If you catch one of the arm laminations on the interrupted cut
and the arm spins in the reducer bushing, you lose the clamping force
because it wallows out the soft aluminum (highly technical term). My
next step is to make the reducer out of brass, and slit it crossways
(four "fingers") so that it can hold the arm shaft more securely.
Actually, having the arm spin in the bushing is a safety valve, because
it prevents you from spinning the commutator on the shaft and totally
trashing the armature.

The other problem is that the live tailstock doesn't turn at the spindle
speed; even with only a light preload, there is too much drag. To
prevent galling the aluminum support bushing on that end, I put a dab of
synthetic grease on the arm shaft. That's cured that problem.

After doing a dozen or so arms, I've decided that grinding the OD is
probably a better solution than machining it. I've built a fixture to
hold a Foredom flex shaft grinder handpiece on the cross slide (there
are several examples on Nick Carter's website) -- sort of an imitation
tool post grinder. On Tom Benedict's advice, I bought the reversible
Foredom so that I can countergrind the arm; most grinders (Dremel,
non-reversible Foredom, Harbor Freight, etc.) rotate "with" the spindle.
I'm going to sacrifice a few arms this weekend to see whether or not
this setup works.

Good luck!

Hope this helps,
Rick Voegelin (still playing with toy cars)

Hi all, I recently bought a Taige / Peatol lathe, and have been
looking round a few of the groups for pointers on how various
operations are carried out on the lathe.This brings me to the reason
for my first post to the group, I need to bore some holes accurately
in some pieces of aluminium 1-1/4" square x 5" x 1/8" thick.Using a
boring bar in the toolpost isn't feasable as the holes, which are to
seat bearings  are at the ends of the pieces. I have a copy of "The
amateur's lathe" by L H Sparey, which shows a boring bar which
passes
through the workpiece. Has anyone used this system? and if so, can
anyone tell me how the tools are best made - or where to obtain them
(please).Also in the same book, flycutters are under the heading of
boring tools, would a small diameter flycutter cut a reasonably
accurate hole in this material? (the bearings are to be inserted
after the aluminium has been heated to expand it - the bearings will
have been in the freezer overnight)Any advice or information would
be greatfully recieved.