Hi all,

I'm preparing to move. I have too much stuff!

When Taig shipped me my mill the motor got loose in the box and the
shaft got slightly bent from true. Taig sent me a new motor. I was
going to use this motor on some other non critical thing but, well,
I'm moving.

So, rather than pitch this I am offering it to anybody who wants it.
Just pay the postage and any paypal fees.

Contact me OFF LIST please if interested.

--
Mike N

Heretic, Lunatic, Fanatic.

No. because intrinsically there is nothing about stainless steel that gives
it a lower coefficient of friction than regular carbon steel against the
brass nut.  Stainless precision screws tend to be smoother (lower Ra values)
than carbon steel screws and thus might have lower friction that way, but it
has nothing to do with the material properties, just the method and care of
manufacture.

On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 21:47, rovil <rsilversg@...> wrote:

>
>
> hello all,
> would fabricating a stainless leadscrew for the taig mill would offer any
> good advantages? I was thinking that a stainless leadscrew would reduce
> friction between the nuts and leadscrew. I would love to hear your thoughts,
> Thanks in advance
>
> Dan
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hello all,
would fabricating a stainless leadscrew for the taig mill would offer any good
advantages? I was thinking that a stainless leadscrew would reduce friction
between the nuts and leadscrew. I would love to hear your thoughts, Thanks in
advance

Dan

I'd try bringing in just the belt first. In trying to debug my first set up
of a Taig CNC mill, I lugged the thing upstairs from the basement to hook to a
newer computer and about killed myself - A fully motorized Taig is heavy!

My basement is barely heated and is about at ground level so at the first hint
of a problem as the days get colder, out comes the heat gun. Maybe a spotlight
on the belt as well as the cutter. A toaster may be overkill.




________________________________
From: Lou Somers Sr <oliedsl411@...>
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, December 6, 2009 7:23:35 PM
Subject: Re: [taigtools] Re: Belt Noise - Mill

 
Did you try bringing the mill into a heated room for a few hours to give
everything time to warm up then see if noise is still present?

____________ _________ _________ __
From: Jack <tech.writer@ earthlink. net>
To: taigtools@yahoogrou ps.com
Sent: Sun, December 6, 2009 12:58:21 PM
Subject: [taigtools] Re: Belt Noise - Mill

 
Maybe the problem isn't what I think it is. You and Ken are both operating at
roughly the same temperature that seems to be causing the problem for me. Ken's
technique of wiping down the belt from time to time is something I've done too,
although not with an oily rag. I usually remove the belt and clean it off with
mineral spirits, then clean out the pulley grooves the same way. This quiets the
belt for awhile. Guess I should try a few other things before rushing out to buy
a propane system.

Jack

--- In taigtools@yahoogrou ps.com, "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@... > wrote:
>
> Jack,
>
> A bigger and faster computer is a good source of heat. An old New England
> farm house with heat only on the main floor. Silly computer still keeps it
> toasty upstairs and requires the summer AC when still not very warm
> outside. Basement studio is damned chilly, I might use 500W of carefully
> directed (at my body) heat when it gets really cold. No way am I going to
> heat the entire space. Mill runs just fine at 45-50°F, I don't any more.
>
> jeffD
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
> On 12/5/2009 at 11:55 PM Jack wrote:
>
> >Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to
> >run the mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater.
> >Looks like I'll need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater
> >and tank.
> >
> >Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't
> >use the mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(
> >
> >Jack
> >>
>
> -
> Demand Designs
> Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing
>
> http://www.gmavt. net/~jdemand
> jdemand@...
> -
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Did you try bringing the mill into a heated room for a few hours to give
everything time to warm up then see if noise is still present?




________________________________
From: Jack <tech.writer@...>
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, December 6, 2009 12:58:21 PM
Subject: [taigtools] Re: Belt Noise - Mill

 
Maybe the problem isn't what I think it is. You and Ken are both operating at
roughly the same temperature that seems to be causing the problem for me. Ken's
technique of wiping down the belt from time to time is something I've done too,
although not with an oily rag. I usually remove the belt and clean it off with
mineral spirits, then clean out the pulley grooves the same way. This quiets the
belt for awhile. Guess I should try a few other things before rushing out to buy
a propane system.

Jack

--- In taigtools@yahoogrou ps.com, "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@... > wrote:
>
> Jack,
>
> A bigger and faster computer is a good source of heat. An old New England
> farm house with heat only on the main floor. Silly computer still keeps it
> toasty upstairs and requires the summer AC when still not very warm
> outside. Basement studio is damned chilly, I might use 500W of carefully
> directed (at my body) heat when it gets really cold. No way am I going to
> heat the entire space. Mill runs just fine at 45-50°F, I don't any more.
>
> jeffD
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
> On 12/5/2009 at 11:55 PM Jack wrote:
>
> >Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to
> >run the mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater.
> >Looks like I'll need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater
> >and tank.
> >
> >Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't
> >use the mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(
> >
> >Jack
> >>
>
> -
> Demand Designs
> Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing
>
> http://www.gmavt. net/~jdemand
> jdemand@...
> -
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Don.

     Winter in New England sure is charming, and I'm probably a bit further
north than you were. Any time there was much trim to do I just hauled the
saw inside, mess and dust be damned.

Winter is a good time to cut and haul wood. Go out when it's almost too
cold to breath wearing just a sweatshirt or light jacket.  Damn right about
gloves although I will wear them when using a chain saw at -20°.

    Otherwise just go out and play in the snow and have a nice warm fire
waiting inside.

jeffD


*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 12/6/2009 at 10:21 AM Don Rogers wrote:

>A canvas or heavy plastic tent over the mill with a 40w light under the
>tent
>will keep things warm and dry.  Just make sure the light is well away from
>the tent sides,
>
>
>
>One other thought, take the belt off and keep it warm in the house until
>it's time to cut.  I wouldn't put oil on it, that will just promote
>slippage
>and pulley burn damage to the belt..
>
>
>
>This cold weather talk brings up the memory of building my house in New
>York.  I was trimming out the inside by winter, and going out to the
garage
>and cutting a piece on the radial arm saw when it was 10 below was a real
>joy. The air off the blade felt like an extension of the blade. It felt
>like
>it was cutting my fingers off.  I refuse to wear gloves any time I'm
>working
>with machinery.
>
>
>
>Don

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing

http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand
jdemand@...
-

A canvas or heavy plastic tent over the mill with a 40w light under the tent
will keep things warm and dry.  Just make sure the light is well away from
the tent sides,



One other thought, take the belt off and keep it warm in the house until
it's time to cut.  I wouldn't put oil on it, that will just promote slippage
and pulley burn damage to the belt..



This cold weather talk brings up the memory of building my house in New
York.  I was trimming out the inside by winter, and going out to the garage
and cutting a piece on the radial arm saw when it was 10 below was a real
joy. The air off the blade felt like an extension of the blade. It felt like
it was cutting my fingers off.  I refuse to wear gloves any time I'm working
with machinery.



Don



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jack,

I might have missed this in a previous post to your thread...

Didja try a new belt?

On Dec 6, 2009, at 12:58 PM, Jack wrote:

> Maybe the problem isn't what I think it is. You and Ken are both
> operating at roughly the same temperature that seems to be causing
> the problem for me. Ken's technique of wiping down the belt from
> time to time is something I've done too, although not with an oily
> rag. I usually remove the belt and clean it off with mineral
> spirits, then clean out the pulley grooves the same way. This
> quiets the belt for awhile. Guess I should try a few other things
> before rushing out to buy a propane system.


--
Mike N

He who dies with the most toys is still dead.

Maybe the problem isn't what I think it is. You and Ken are both operating at
roughly the same temperature that seems to be causing the problem for me. Ken's
technique of wiping down the belt from time to time is something I've done too,
although not with an oily rag. I usually remove the belt and clean it off with
mineral spirits, then clean out the pulley grooves the same way. This quiets the
belt for awhile. Guess I should try a few other things before rushing out to buy
a propane system.

Jack

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@...> wrote:
>
> Jack,
>
> A bigger and faster computer is a good source of heat.  An old New England
> farm house with heat only on the main floor.  Silly computer still keeps it
> toasty  upstairs and requires the summer AC when still not very warm
> outside. Basement studio is damned chilly, I might use 500W of carefully
> directed  (at my body)  heat when it gets really cold. No way am I going to
> heat the entire space. Mill runs just fine at 45-50°F, I don't any more.
>
> jeffD
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********
>
> On 12/5/2009 at 11:55 PM Jack wrote:
>
> >Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to
> >run the mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater.
> >Looks like I'll need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater
> >and tank.
> >
> >Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't
> >use the mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(
> >
> >Jack
> >>
>
> -
> Demand Designs
> Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing
>
> http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand
> jdemand@...
> -
>

Jack,

A bigger and faster computer is a good source of heat.  An old New England
farm house with heat only on the main floor.  Silly computer still keeps it
toasty  upstairs and requires the summer AC when still not very warm
outside. Basement studio is damned chilly, I might use 500W of carefully
directed  (at my body)  heat when it gets really cold. No way am I going to
heat the entire space. Mill runs just fine at 45-50°F, I don't any more.

jeffD

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 12/5/2009 at 11:55 PM Jack wrote:

>Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to
>run the mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater.
>Looks like I'll need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater
>and tank.
>
>Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't
>use the mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(
>
>Jack
>>

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing

http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand
jdemand@...
-

Make a collar with a set screw. Place it between the rear of the
tailstock and the lever on the shaft. determine how much travel. Set
the stop.

On Dec 6, 2009, at 12:06 PM, Will Schmit wrote:

> I need to drill some parts to a precise depth.
> Once the parts are drilled, I will follow the drill with a 1/2"
> wood router bit (which will round out the bottom of the hole).
> Then I will use a boring bar to taper the hole.
> I will use CNC to control the boring bar.  I am looking for a
> quickee way to drill the holes by hand.
>
> Anyone know any tricks to control the depth of a drilled hole?

--
Mike N.

CEESA (Cranky Ex-Email Systems Admin)

I need to drill some parts to a precise depth.
Once the parts are drilled, I will follow the drill with a 1/2" wood router bit
(which will round out the bottom of the hole).  Then I will use a boring bar to
taper the hole.
I will use CNC to control the boring bar.  I am looking for a quickee way to
drill the holes by hand.

Anyone know any tricks to control the depth of a drilled hole?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Since I have a realy old taig I decided to make some pictures, here you can see
the difference between the old en the new kind of toolposts made by taig.
http://d.yimg.com/kq/groups/1693605/sn/608786467/name/old-new.jpg

I never tought about that untill I ordered new ones from cartertools, so I will
modify my other 6 toolposts very soon.

Mark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ditto on the CO warning.  I added circuits on separate phases from the mains and
have no trouble running a cheap compressor, mill, computer, and air filter
simultaneously.  I had my electrician do the work and it was a quick job, so not
outrageously expensive.  Put the computer on a UPS if necessary.

Regarding your belt noise:  My experience is that the noise only lasts a short
while before the belt turns inside out and becomes useless.  It may not be
recommended practice, but I rub the belt with an oily rag when that happens and
it usually settles down.  Careful alignment of the pulley has helped a lot.  50F
should be no problem.

On 5 Dec 2009, at 4:55 PM, Jack wrote:

> Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to run
the mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater. Looks like
I'll need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater and tank.
>
> Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't use
the mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Once my shop is warmed, the heat from the equipment will keep it warm.
The trick is to get everything warm and "loose".
My whole machine shop is in a well insulated 20ft Conex container.
It doesn't take much to make it comfortable for me -- but the machinery likes it
warm for hours.

The trick is MASS.  The more stuff you warm up -- the warmer it will stay.
There is a great tool, that looks like a radiator.  It is filled with oil, and
doesn't consume more than 1300 watts.  Run it at night, then kill it when you
start up the other stuff.

Watch out for carbon monoxide.  Bad news!




________________________________
From: Jack <tech.writer@...>
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 5, 2009 4:55:11 PM
Subject: [taigtools] Re: Belt Noise - Mill


Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to run the
mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater. Looks like I'll
need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater and tank.

Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't use the
mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(

Jack

--- In taigtools@yahoogrou ps.com, Will Schmit <anchornm@.. .> wrote:
>
> I bought a milk-house heater at Home Depot ($29.00)
> I start it up at 4:30am, go make breakfast, then around 9, I check the temp.
> It hasn't gotten above freezing in a couple of days, so I was afraid I
wouldn't get my projects going this week.
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: Jack <tech.writer@ ...>
> To: taigtools@yahoogrou ps.com
> Sent: Sat, December 5, 2009 10:33:39 AM
> Subject: [taigtools] Belt Noise - Mill
>
>
> My mill is in the garage where there's no heat or AC. I've noticed that as the
weather has become colder, the belt is making noise. It's  a loud snapping
sound, and it's getting worse as the temperature goes down. I've tried adjusting
the motor pulley and cleaning the belt and pulley grooves. Nothing seems to help
much. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there a cure other than heating
the garage? The garage was upper 40s last night, and the belt sounded like it
was gonna fly apart.
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Don't know what that is, but I don't have enough electricity capacity to run the
mill and computer in addition to a 1,000W or so electric heater. Looks like I'll
need to search Craigslist for a used propane space heater and tank.

Funny, I ride a motorcycle to work even when temps are in the 20s. Can't use the
mill though when it hits 50. Go figure. :(

Jack

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Will Schmit <anchornm@...> wrote:
>
> I bought a milk-house heater at Home Depot ($29.00)
> I start it up at 4:30am, go make breakfast, then around 9, I check the temp.
> It hasn't gotten above freezing in a couple of days, so I was afraid I
wouldn't get my projects going this week.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jack <tech.writer@...>
> To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sat, December 5, 2009 10:33:39 AM
> Subject: [taigtools] Belt Noise - Mill
>
>
> My mill is in the garage where there's no heat or AC. I've noticed that as the
weather has become colder, the belt is making noise. It's  a loud snapping
sound, and it's getting worse as the temperature goes down. I've tried adjusting
the motor pulley and cleaning the belt and pulley grooves. Nothing seems to help
much. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there a cure other than heating
the garage? The garage was upper 40s last night, and the belt sounded like it
was gonna fly apart.
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I bought a milk-house heater at Home Depot ($29.00)
I start it up at 4:30am, go make breakfast, then around 9, I check the temp.
It hasn't gotten above freezing in a couple of days, so I was afraid I wouldn't
get my projects going this week.




________________________________
From: Jack <tech.writer@...>
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 5, 2009 10:33:39 AM
Subject: [taigtools] Belt Noise - Mill


My mill is in the garage where there's no heat or AC. I've noticed that as the
weather has become colder, the belt is making noise. It's  a loud snapping
sound, and it's getting worse as the temperature goes down. I've tried adjusting
the motor pulley and cleaning the belt and pulley grooves. Nothing seems to help
much. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there a cure other than heating
the garage? The garage was upper 40s last night, and the belt sounded like it
was gonna fly apart.

Jack




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Dec 5, 2009, at 1:28 AM, Lester Caine wrote:

> http://medw.co.uk/fisheye/view_image.php?image_id=1510
> Any help?
>
> The inner of the dial has the circlip fitted to hold the outer in
> place.
>
> One of these days I'll add these to the 3d model drawings ...

Thank you. That is what I was hoping to see.

--
Mike N

"There is a difference between savoring a victory and choking on it."
-- Sam Starfall from the comic strip 'Freefall'

lol, same here, I like to have heath, light and sound when making stuff.

Mark



From: Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 6:38 PM
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [taigtools] Belt Noise - Mill



I've noticed that before...colder means the polyurethane is stiffer...
For many reasons it's good to have the garage heated&insulated. The lube
on the machine thickens up, the aluminum expands and contracts, moisture
can condense on the machine, etc. For me the most important thing is I
find it hard to work when my hands are numb!

Jack wrote:
> My mill is in the garage where there's no heat or AC. I've noticed
> that as the weather has become colder, the belt is making noise. It's
> a loud snapping sound, and it's getting worse as the temperature goes
> down. I've tried adjusting the motor pulley and cleaning the belt and
> pulley grooves. Nothing seems to help much. Has anyone else
> experienced this, and is there a cure other than heating the garage?
> The garage was upper 40s last night, and the belt sounded like it was
> gonna fly apart.
>
> Jack

--
felice@... is Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein. See our
homepage at www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've noticed that before...colder means the polyurethane is stiffer...
For many reasons it's good to have the garage heated&insulated. The lube
on the machine thickens up, the aluminum expands and contracts, moisture
can condense on the machine, etc. For me the most important thing is I
find it hard to work when my hands are numb!

Jack wrote:
> My mill is in the garage where there's no heat or AC. I've noticed
> that as the weather has become colder, the belt is making noise. It's
> a loud snapping sound, and it's getting worse as the temperature goes
> down. I've tried adjusting the motor pulley and cleaning the belt and
> pulley grooves. Nothing seems to help much. Has anyone else
> experienced this, and is there a cure other than heating the garage?
> The garage was upper 40s last night, and the belt sounded like it was
> gonna fly apart.
>
> Jack

--
felice@... is Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein. See our
homepage at www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html

My mill is in the garage where there's no heat or AC. I've noticed that as the
weather has become colder, the belt is making noise. It's  a loud snapping
sound, and it's getting worse as the temperature goes down. I've tried adjusting
the motor pulley and cleaning the belt and pulley grooves. Nothing seems to help
much. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there a cure other than heating
the garage? The garage was upper 40s last night, and the belt sounded like it
was gonna fly apart.

Jack

Mike Nicewonger wrote:
> Thanks Kristin...
>
> However...
>
> I want to see how they are assembled. This is for another project. I
> just don't want to disturb the handles on my mill.

http://medw.co.uk/fisheye/view_image.php?image_id=1510
Any help?

The inner of the dial has the circlip fitted to hold the outer in place.

One of these days I'll add these to the 3d model drawings ...

--
Lester Caine - G8HFL
-----------------------------
Contact - http://lsces.co.uk/wiki/?page=contact
L.S.Caine Electronic Services - http://lsces.co.uk
EnquirySolve - http://enquirysolve.com/
Model Engineers Digital Workshop - http://medw.co.uk//
Firebird - http://www.firebirdsql.org/index.php

Thanks Kristin...

However...

I want to see how they are assembled. This is for another project. I
just don't want to disturb the handles on my mill.

On Dec 4, 2009, at 7:55 PM, kd006 wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Pretty straight forward, there is a nut holding the crank, a 1/16"
> key and I think a snap ring involved. Most important is when
> putting back together NOT to tighten too much or you waste the
> rollerblade bearings very easy. On my CNC version/mod I drilled a
> hole in the coupling to be able to use a tommy bar to hold things,
> with the manual mill I think just holding the crank handle works.
> Just snug up the nut till backlash is gone, any tighter and then
> you will have the bearings grinding. I actually "lost" the self
> locking nut and replaced with a couple of thin 5/16-18 jamb nuts to
> get a better feel for the adjustment.]

--
Mike N

Mike,

Pretty straight forward, there is a nut holding the crank, a 1/16" key and I
think a snap ring involved. Most important is when putting back together NOT to
tighten too much or you waste the rollerblade bearings very easy. On my CNC
version/mod I drilled a hole in the coupling to be able to use a tommy bar to
hold things, with the manual mill I think just holding the crank handle works.
Just snug up the nut till backlash is gone, any tighter and then you will have
the bearings grinding. I actually "lost" the self locking nut and replaced with
a couple of thin 5/16-18 jamb nuts to get a better feel for the adjustment.

Kristin

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Mike Nicewonger <twmaster@...> wrote:
>
> Is there an assembly diagram for the current style of mill hand wheel
> dial assembly? Failing that does anybody have a photo of their dial
> apart?
>
> --
> Mike N
>
> RC Helicopters: as addicting as crack, only more expensive!
>

Thanks Niels, You also answered another thing I was wondering, did they realy
use metric bearings, yup they did, at least in the new ones, I hope my old taig
also uses metric bearings.

73
Mark



From: n_jalling
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 9:02 AM
To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [taigtools] Re: bearings taig lathe



Hi Mark

If the dimensions matches this 17mmx40mmx12mm (d x D x W (inside diameter x
outside diameter x width)) it can be used. The bearings is one of the few parts
of the lathe where all measurements is metric:-)

The groove is not used on the Taig.

73 de oz9ny, Niels
---
http://unitaig.jalling.dk

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "pe3hmp" <pe3hmp@...> wrote:
>
> Can someone confirm that the taig lathe uses 6203-2Z bearings ?
> on this picture I see that the bearings have a grove on the outside, is that
used in the taig lathe ? http://www.cartertools.com/W1021.jpg because that looks
like 6203-2ZN bearings.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Mark

If the dimensions matches this 17mmx40mmx12mm (d x D x W (inside diameter x
outside diameter x width)) it can be used. The bearings is one of the few parts
of the lathe where all measurements is metric:-)

The groove is not used on the Taig.

73 de oz9ny, Niels
---
http://unitaig.jalling.dk

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "pe3hmp" <pe3hmp@...> wrote:
>
> Can someone confirm that the taig lathe uses 6203-2Z bearings ?
> on this picture I see that the bearings have a grove on the outside, is that
used in the taig lathe ? http://www.cartertools.com/W1021.jpg because that looks
like 6203-2ZN bearings.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Is there an assembly diagram for the current style of mill hand wheel
dial assembly? Failing that does anybody have a photo of their dial
apart?

--
Mike N

RC Helicopters: as addicting as crack, only more expensive!

Can someone confirm that the taig lathe uses 6203-2Z bearings ?
on this picture I see that the bearings have a grove on the outside, is that
used in the taig lathe ? http://www.cartertools.com/W1021.jpg because that looks
like 6203-2ZN bearings.

Mark



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Chuck,

I am thinking about using the spindle from a 5C spindex fixture and bearings
to it.  It would completely replace the Taig head.

Bertho

  ==============



From:  kuhncw    Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 12:19
You mentioned "C" collet spindle. Is ths a 3C collet? Will the spindle
interchange or the whole headstock?
Thanks,
Chuck

--- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com <mailto:taigtools%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Bertho Boman" <boman01@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Chuck,
>
> The breadboard concept works very well for many projects.
>
> On my todo list is an interchangeable "C" collet spindle. It only takes a
> few minutes to switch configuration or motors.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Dec 3, 2009, at 2:23 PM, mrehmus wrote:

>> That is a magnificent idea. How big a race are you talking about?
>> To me when you say 'truck' I'm thinking tractor trailer...
>>
>
> Exactly correct. I have a front wheel bearing outer race that is
> just perfectly sized. Works on both the Taig and the Sherline.

Beauty. I know where to get a wheel bearing race... My family is in
trucking.

> I first got the idea in school when the Bridgeports had circular
> parallels made by Bridgeport. These are no longer available but the
> idea is a good one and it saves a lot of time.

I've seen those tramming tools that are round and stick up over a
vise. Have never seen the one you mention from BP.

> Note that it doesn't correct for your vise (if you use one) if it
> has any problems. Kurt vises, those used on large mills are
> frequently out by 0.001" when new. Then the removable jaws will
> warp, causing more problems. Don't know about the small vises we
> use but they are built to a price and should be checked once in a
> while.

Fortunately the import screwless vice I have is about as square as
square gets. I've checked it over fairly well and cannot detect any
error.

--
Mike N

RC Helicopters: as addicting as crack, only more expensive!