I have seen body snatchers several times & never noticed. I will definetly check
it out.   Steve

The ones I have off hand are:<br>Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1956)
R100<br>The Girl in the Gold Boots (AY160?)<br>The Human Duplicators<br>Doctor
No<br>Spaceballs

yes of course, "The misfits" has a Q-160, also "The apartment" shows very nicely
a 100r. Both films are from around 1960. "Goodfellas" has several.   -Steve

I have begun compiling a list of movies in which Seeburg jukeboxes appear
(sometimes VERY briefly).  If you know of any, let me know!<br><br>-kevin

I have a fax number, and it does work sometimes,
but let's check a few things first. The reversing
switch is a paddle that hangs down (and toward the front
of the machine) off of the front of the
select-o-matic mechanism. I can't see how this could possibly
cause the problem you stated unless either the paddle
or the pegs that it hits are broken off. The
reversing switch is a click switch (it 'clicks' into either
one position or another) mounted off the front side
of the select-o-matic mechanism (the thing that
moves left-to-right, and which plays the record). At
either end of the carriage, the reversing switch hits
something which causes it to change to the "other"
position. This is what causes a select-o-matic to scan from
one end of the record magazine to the other and back
again. <br><br>HOWEVER, it is not the reversing switch
itself which controls the current to the motor which
causes the select-o-matic to go forward or reverse (at
least in the model I have). The reversing SWITCH
controls a reversing RELAY which actually controls the
current going to the motor. I know it's too much to ask
of coincidence, but it happens that my LPC-1 had a
problem with blowing the fuse (the main fuse at the power
distribution block--kinda' a plug strip in the bottom of the
machine) when it reversed. <br><br>The reason that it did
this in MY machine was that the insulator on the
reversing relay was broken in such a way that it would
still operate, but it would take a hellatious amount of
current to do so. The (less than reputable) juke operator
I bought the machine from had "solved" the problem
by putting in a REALLLY REALLY BIGG fuse. By doing
this, the machine worked, but big, blue sparks shot out
of the relay, and the cabinet lights flashed every
time the machine reversed. <br><br>ANYWAY, the
reversing switch and its adjustment should be described in
your manual. In my manual, the reversing relay is
described on pp 2505, 2506, and the reversing switch is
described on pp 2507, 2508. <br><br>The reality of the
matter is that most of these switches and relays NEVER
need adjustment. If something is broken, then you
should be able to spot it with a flashlight and some
patience. Always be suspicious of black marks and carbon
scoring--you know--the kind of things that big arcs and sparks
can cause. <br><br>Stock up on fuses--my juke has had
its non-standard-type fuse holders replaced with ones
that take cheap, Radio Shack-variety ones.
<br><br>Never give up!<br><br>-kevin

I plugged in the jukebox and turned it on. All
the lights lit up & the record selector started
moving around & making sounds like it was checking for
records. (which there are none in the jukebox at this
time). Then the record selector moved all the way to the
left & the entire jukebox shut down, lights
everything, & it will not turn back on at all. In looking at
the trouble shooting guide it says that when the
carriage goes all the way to the left or right, G,H,J,K
contacts of reversing switch incorrectly adjusted. Fuse
blows when motor reverses. If you have a fax # I can
fax you the pages of the guide to help you help me
understand this better. I really do thank you for all your
continued help.<br>Ken

I wish I knew how to get more members on. Anyone
who searches for "Seeburg" using Yahoo! will see us.
In the mean time, what members we have could update
their Profiles to include their interests, and tell the
world that they are a member of this club. (That's a
hint.)<br><br>-kevin

I need a little more info. You say the mechanism
scanned all the way to the left, then shut
down.<br><br>This isn't particularly abnormal. What happens next?
What doesn't happen next?<br><br>More specifically
(and remember, I don't know this particular model, so
I'm asking kind of general questions), <br><br>1) Are
the cabinet lights still on?<br>2) If you put in
coins, does the "Select Any Single" (or whatever) light
come on (this assumes the bulb is good), AND/OR at the
same time, the latch solenoid(s) should come on--this
means that BEFORE you "Establish Credits," the selector
buttons will not stay down when you press them, and AFTER
you establish credits, the buttons will stay down.
The electromagnets that cause the buttons to stay
down only after credits are established are the latch
solenoids. <br><br>If your machine has been modified to
operate without coins (too bad!), the buttons should
always lock down, otherwise they should only lock if
credits are established. In most jukeboxes, this can be
accomplished two ways. The first is by putting in enough coins
to earn a play. The second is through some sort of
Free Play switch inside the jukebox, to be used by the
technician. In my Seeburg (LPC-1), there is a "Service
Switch" under the lid. This is actually two switches. One
is a black, two-position, momentary-contact switch,
and the other is a metal, three-position switch where
one of the positions springs back to center. To
establish credits without putting in coins, you have to
hold the metal switch in the spring-return position,
and repeatedly operate the black switch to rack up
some credits. Then you return the metal switch to the
other end ("Play") position.<br><br>One thing to try to
check early on is whether the light bulbs are all
working--they can be very helpful in
troubleshooting.<br><br>Keep us informed.<br><br>-kevin

It was a good idea to start this club. How can we
get more members? It's nice to have someone to ask
about our jukes when we are having a problem. I have a
q-160 & 100-b . www.geocities.com/jukeboxfun

I got the trouble shooting guide & parts manual &
this looks like this is going to be alot of fun. I
have to figure out why the record selector went all
the way to the left before it shut down. And the
manual isn't much help.

Is anybody out there?

I posted some of my favorite links in the Links section.  As always, I am not
affiliated with any of these people--I just like their sites and/or
products.<br><br>-kevin

If you are looking for pix of Seeburgs, you
should visit:<br><br><a href=http://www.seeburg.com
target=new>http://www.seeburg.com</a><br><br>Their
Photo Gallery takes a while to load, but it's the most
complete I've seen on the 'net.<br><br>Don't get your
hopes up, though. The phone number has been
disconnected for a long time, and I've seen indications from
others that they haven't responded to any email for the
last few years.<br><br>-kevin

A LITTLE quirky???  It's a LOT quirky--that's why I love it!<br><br>-kevin

I have restored 4 222's and the only problem is
the amp. I alway replace the capisators and in the
222 there are 178 and very hard to get at. To get
stereo, it is basicaly 2 amps. There is a complete set of
tubes and transformer for each channel. <br><br>I agree
the styling is one of my favorites. I wish I still
had one. The idea of using red and green for left and
right (port and starboard) is a little quirky but it
has impact.

Kevin.<br>Thanks for the help. I will take
pictures of it this weekend & post what it looks like now,
& keep you posted during the process. My hope is to
restore this jukebox & then sell it or trade it for an
earlier model that has the front glass where you can see
the records being played. I have talked to both
Victory Glass & Jukebox Parts (Durfee). Thanks for all
the help.

Thanks for the pix! I keep hoping someday I will
own a 222. I heard somewhere that they are kind of a
mechanical problem--what do you think?<br><br>In my opinion,
Seeburg did the best possible job in the early days of
stereo coming up with a compelling visual statement
summing up the concept of sterephonic
sound.<br><br>-kevin

Ken,<br><br>Restoring a jukebox is a lot of work,
but it's worth it.<br><br>The main things to remember
are:<br><br>1) There is a lot of dangerous high voltage in a
juke--It doesn't love you as much as you love it--yet. Use
caution--unplug it while digging around inside.<br><br>2) Take
time to figure out what is happening. Everything that
happens in a electromechanical system like a jukebox
happens for a reason. Everything that doesn't happen
doesn't happen for a reason. The most important task at
hand is playing the "what happens next" game--figure
out what does work and what doesn't work. If it
powers up, does it take coins and establish credits? If
it establishes credits, does it allow you to select?
If it allows you to select, does it scan and attempt
to find selections, etc.<br><br>3) When it all gets
too confusing, frustrating, horrible and hopeless,
give up . . . for now. There's always tomorrow, or
next week.<br><br>4) Always keep a stock of really bad
45's around for testing purposes. I had a jukebox I
was working on which would begin to Scan while the
Transfer arm was in the wrong position. All of the records
in the magazine would end up with a triangular bite
taken out of them. It's best to experiment with
cheapies from Goodwill.<br><br>5) Lubrication is
important, and using the correct lubricants is important.
Old oil can turn gummy. Clean it all out with
alcohol, and replace it with the CORRECT oil. For
Seeburgs, use Seeburg Special Purpose Oil. (This, too, is
available from Victory Glass*). The only thing worse than
old, gummy oil is one kind of oil mixed with another
kind of oil which causes a bad reaction. Mixing the
wrong lubricants can result in something akin to
library paste. Your service manual will tell you the
correct lubricants, and cleaning and lubing can make a
world of difference. (After all my preaching, I must
admit that I used Super Lube synthetic Grease on my
jukebox--NOT Super Lube OIL, though.)<br><br>6) This is a
labor of love. Love isn't always returned immediately,
or in kind. Be patient. Your patience will be
rewarded.<br><br>Please keep us informed!<br><br>* Although I often
recommend Victory Glass (victoryglass.com) and Durfee
Coin-Op (jukeboxparts.com), I am in no way affiliated
with these businesses. I have done business with both,
and am satisfied with the results. There are, of
course, many other options. <br><br>-kevin

Kevin, I have ordered the Troubleshooting guide &
the service manual. They will be here next week. I
got them from a company called Wurco. They seem very
helpfull & said I could ask any question. I'm just hoping
as I take on my first jukebox, if I have any
questions, I cann post them here for some help.
<br>Thanks,<br>First time juke restorer,<br>Ken

I posted a few pictures of some Seeburgs I have restored in the past couple of
years. I started with the Seeburg C in 1982 and haven't stoped yet. Be careful!

The best advice I can give you to start with is
to get yourself a service manual. If you are the
type who has the electrical and mechanical know-how to
get such a machine running, the manual can give you
lots of information you need to understand the box. Be
warned, however, that most manuals are long on schematics
and adjustments, and short on troubleshooting.
Victory Glass (www.victoryglass.com) has service manual
reprints, and videos on how to restore Seeburg
Select-O-Matic jukeboxes.<br><br>Good Luck!<br><br>-kevin

Kevin,<br>This AY 160 has all original parts. I
turned it on and it lit up, the record selector moved
all the way to the left, then the jukebox shut down.
It has some rust spots on it, but all in all its in
pretty good condition. At least I know it does work. All
the tubes are still in & the original speakers.
Anyone who can give me help restoring this jukebox,
would be greatly appreciated.

The only problems I have with my LPC-1 are that
the sound isn't as good as it should be in the right
channel (probably capacitors), and the Remote Control
Stepper Unit I got used sometimes gets fussy--lots of
switch/relay contacts to clean!<br><br>Please post pictures if
you have any!

Having restored many Seeburgs in the last 20
years, I can definately confirm that once adjusted
properly, the are the most reliable machine out there. The
only ones I seem to have problem with are the early
Tormat Model V's and the 70's machines with the black
and grey control boxes.

The two main sources I use for parts and
information
are<br><br>www.jukeboxparts.com<br><br>and<br><br>www.victoryglass.com<br><br>Vi\
ctory Glass bought AMR publishing, the largest
publisher of service manual reprints. Durfee
(jukeboxparts.com) deals in surplus parts and assemblies.
<br><br>The AY160 is a beautiful machine. What kind of
condition is it in? Is it more or less
working?<br><br>-kevin

I just got this jukebox from a friend. It's in
pretty good condition. Looks like most of the original
equipment is still there. Can anyone help me with a repair
manual or just some general help in restoring this
jukebox.<br><br>Ken

I posted some pictures of SC-1 Consolettes in the photos section.<br><br>-kevin

I hope this can be a good forum for the exchange
of information and ideas about Seeburg products, as
well as a place to meet others with similar
interests.<br><br>I have (as you might guess from the picture) a
Seeburg LPC-1, the jukebox with the 12th largest
production run in history. I have converted it for remote
operation (making it an LPC-1R), and I have three SC-1
Consolettes connected to it around my house.<br><br>-kevin

I hope this can be a good forum for the exchange
of information and ideas about Seeburg products, as
well as a place to meet others with similar
interests.<br><br>I have (as you might guess from the picture) a
Seeburg LPC-1, the jukebox with the 12th largest
production run in history. I have converted it for remote
operation (making it an LPC-1R), and I have three SC-1
Consolettes connected to it around my house.<br><br>-kevin

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