sca_moneyer@egroups.com wrote:
>    Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 13:09:48 -0000
>    From: "Jasper Murtagh" <JASPERRDM@...>
> Subject: Learing from mistakes
>
> I finish my first ten coins before Gulf wars and have melted them
> down.  The reason is the number of mistakes made while making them.
>
>  Second problem was with equipment.
>  I needed a polished square face hammer to smack the lead solder
> pellet flat. I used a slightly polished 3 pd sledge. This gave the
> clean top part of the coin but the bottom of the blank picked up the
> rust from the anvil.

I use a rolling mill now, but I found that a flat plannishing hammer
such as used in blacksmithing works very well.  You place your
solder twixt the anvil and the hammer, then strike the back of the
planishing hammer with a good sledge blow.  The solder will take
on the texture of the hammer and anvil that strike it, so they
must both be polished.

> Anvil problems.
> The one I use to melt the solder was rusted so the solder picked up
> some trash.

I used a 1/4" plate of aluminium to melt the solder.  It reflected
the heat well, and imparted a fairly smooth starting surface.  It
is also easy to carry.

> The tin snips, I purchase, were too big to handle. I got better
> control with an aviation pair. But the big ones are better to use
> when the coin blanks are thicker.

I've not had a problem cutting solder.  I've used tin snips, but
Tandy leather shears or Harbor Freight shears seem to work fine.
Solder is very soft.

>  Well I did learn from my mistakes. So the experiment is not a lost
> but just not productive.

My first coins are still around.  I created them on-site at an
event for the local baron to pay his troops.   Bad as they were,
people snapped them up greedily.  I have a couple around to
remind me of the day.  Keep going!

Theign Eadwynne, Lord Runedun, from the Barony of Dreiburgen, Caid

> Medieval Coins in the Christian J. Thomsen Collection by Kristian
> Erslev, 1992, 390 pages, maps, 22 photographic plates of coins now
Is about $75 at barnes and nobles site.
jasper

"Strike that"   I apologize, the original message was suppose to go to
KM-moneyer@egroup  not the Interkingdom Moneyer List.  Please forgive
the error or my weighs.

--
Ld. Gryffri de Newmarch
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA

Greetings,

I am Gryffri, your friendly web developer and responsible for making
sure our cause gets attention.

I am asking you fine gentles to visit our webpae at
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA/mmg  and then tell me if you have anything
you wouls like to add to the page.  I also want to know who wants to
be listed as a "Charter" member and if so, do you want your name
linkable to e-mail?

Please take the time to do this soon, so that we may have a defined
list of participants to present in the near future in our bid for
guild status.

Gryffri
One coin, no matter a mite or a pound, is a work of art little
recognized by the common man.

At 07:01 AM 4/27/00 -0000, you wrote:
>
>Message: 1
>   Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 13:09:48 -0000
>   From: "Jasper Murtagh" <JASPERRDM@...>
>Subject: Learing from mistakes
>
>I finish my first ten coins before Gulf wars and have melted them
>down.



Heck bad coins are better than no coins.

>The reason is the number of mistakes made while making them.
>
>I am using Master Emmerich of Vakkerfjell aka James Coffman's
>"Moneyers Handbook" which teaches you how to stamp your own coins.
>
>First problem was with the dies. The bottom die had to be file down
>repeatedly to correct mistakes. So when I thought I was finish with
>it, small file marks still existed on the surface which show up on
>the
>coin.
>The top die was not filed totally flat. So now, only the center of it
>strikes the coin.
>First problem could have been correct if I paid more attention. I
>have
>to start over.

I use a disk sander and a hole drilled in a wooden block to hold the die
square in 1 axis while I hold the block in another. If you rotate the die
between passes, it is easy to tell if you are set up square to the disk face.

This gets the dies square, but relatively rough (about 80 grit) , I then
sand paper them with wet dry paper on a flat surface to about 400 grit.


>
> Second problem was with equipment.
> I needed a polished square face hammer to smack the lead solder
>pellet flat. I used a slightly polished 3 pd sledge. This gave the
>clean top part of the coin but the bottom of the blank picked up the
>rust from the anvil.
>
I go a different route than emmerich. I melt the solder into  pellets, and
then smack them a few times between blank dies. If you take care, you end
up with a flat round planchette.  I have the two dies aligned in a wooden
block with a through hole.

  I find it much (MUCH) easier than cutting out blanks. I have recently
bought a shim punch, and am going to try sheet casting and punching.





>Anvil problems.
>The one I use to melt the solder was rusted so the solder picked up
>some trash.

I would avoid this. I use a piece of square aluminum tube that I put a
series of dents in to hold the chunks of solder. I then hit the chunks with
the torch to melt them, and the form perfect pea size pellets, that do not
stick to the aluminum.

>The Tandy anvil was not rusted but it had machine lines on the
>surface, which transferred to the coin blank. I have removed the
>lines
>and trying to get polished flat.
>The 50 Pd Harbor Freight anvil was both pitted and slightly rusted.
>So
>both were transfer to the coin blank. No hope for this anvil.

The harbor freight anvils are known for being crap, but should be all you
need. The coins should never need to touch the anvil.
See my web page at www.slip.ne\~jklessig for some more details.
>
>The tin snips, I purchase, were too big to handle. I got better
>control with an aviation pair. But the big ones are better to use
>when
>the coin blanks are thicker.
>
>The stump, I am using, needs it bottom cut flat.
>
> Well I did learn from my mistakes. So the experiment is not a lost
>but just not productive.
>

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=312269474


--
Ld. Gryffri de Newmarch
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=314093304

Medieval Coins in the Christian J. Thomsen Collection by Kristian
Erslev, 1992, 390 pages, maps, 22 photographic plates of coins now in
the Royal
      Danish Museum, green cloth, Fine/Near New.
--
Ld. Gryffri de Newmarch
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA

Charles Buckley wrote >>
  It is after SCA period, but I am tempted to try making a screw press
for
coins.
-----

This got my attention!

The earliest mention of the screw press  is in "statuti dei Balanciers
della citta di Rouen" year 1416, however it's use for coins did not come
about until 1506 when Bramante used it to strike soft metals like gold
and lead.  In fact by 1500 many coin blanks were cut by using the screw
press and striking of actual coins was wide spread by 1550.

The rolling machine was also in use by 1550.

Celllini used a screw press as early as 1530 to produce coins for Pope
Clement VII.  He recorded this carefully in his Treatise about the
construction and use of the screw press, though no drawings were
made**.  Since SCA cooks redact recipes all the time, I don't see why
redacting this should be a problem.

**Referernce "Treatises on Goldsmithing and Sculpture" (Trattari,
translated by Ashbee, 1898)
--
Ld. Gryffri de Newmarch
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA

>I finish my first ten coins before Gulf wars and have melted them
>down.
>The reason is the number of mistakes made while making them.
>

   I don't usually melt my mistakes. I put the bad die and the coin aside
so I can look at them later.

>I am using Master Emmerich of Vakkerfjell aka James Coffman's
>"Moneyers Handbook" which teaches you how to stamp your own coins.
>
>First problem was with the dies. The bottom die had to be file down
>repeatedly to correct mistakes. So when I thought I was finish with
>it, small file marks still existed on the surface which show up on
>the
>coin.
>The top die was not filed totally flat. So now, only the center of it
>strikes the coin.

   I've done that. I usually flatten the die surface with a diamond sharpening
stone. I think the first couple dies, I used a cheap stone that slowly
developed a concave surface. It had the same sort of face you're describing.

   I would not use a file myself, for the reasons you had problem with your
die. It is very difficult to develope even strokes and surfaces and you still
have to deal with scratches.

>First problem could have been correct if I paid more attention. I
>have
>to start over.
>
> Second problem was with equipment.
> I needed a polished square face hammer to smack the lead solder
>pellet flat. I used a slightly polished 3 pd sledge. This gave the
>clean top part of the coin but the bottom of the blank picked up the
>rust from the anvil.
>

   I've seen people use a small anvil for the coin stamp alone.  If you
are working on a piece that is only used for coins, you can avoid a lot of the
contamination issues.

>Anvil problems.
>The one I use to melt the solder was rusted so the solder picked up
>some trash.
>The Tandy anvil was not rusted but it had machine lines on the
>surface, which transferred to the coin blank. I have removed the
>lines
>and trying to get polished flat.
>The 50 Pd Harbor Freight anvil was both pitted and slightly rusted.
>So
>both were transfer to the coin blank. No hope for this anvil.
>

   You'll need to resurface one of the anvils. The Tandy sounds like your best
bet. But, I would seriously consider other options. I've seen I-beams made
into a pretty decent anvil. You don't need a horn or hardy hole for coin
flattening. Just get it into the 40lb range, then finish one side to a flat,
even surface in the area you'll be working. I've seen a bick driven into
a stump also used in some documents I found.

   It is after SCA period, but I am tempted to try making a screw press for
coins.

>The tin snips, I purchase, were too big to handle. I got better
>control with an aviation pair. But the big ones are better to use
>when
>the coin blanks are thicker.
>
>The stump, I am using, needs it bottom cut flat.
>
> Well I did learn from my mistakes. So the experiment is not a lost
>but just not productive.
>

   Always learn from mistakes and don't be afraid of making more.

I finish my first ten coins before Gulf wars and have melted them
down.
The reason is the number of mistakes made while making them.

I am using Master Emmerich of Vakkerfjell aka James Coffman's
"Moneyers Handbook" which teaches you how to stamp your own coins.

First problem was with the dies. The bottom die had to be file down
repeatedly to correct mistakes. So when I thought I was finish with
it, small file marks still existed on the surface which show up on
the
coin.
The top die was not filed totally flat. So now, only the center of it
strikes the coin.
First problem could have been correct if I paid more attention. I
have
to start over.

  Second problem was with equipment.
  I needed a polished square face hammer to smack the lead solder
pellet flat. I used a slightly polished 3 pd sledge. This gave the
clean top part of the coin but the bottom of the blank picked up the
rust from the anvil.

Anvil problems.
The one I use to melt the solder was rusted so the solder picked up
some trash.
The Tandy anvil was not rusted but it had machine lines on the
surface, which transferred to the coin blank. I have removed the
lines
and trying to get polished flat.
The 50 Pd Harbor Freight anvil was both pitted and slightly rusted.
So
both were transfer to the coin blank. No hope for this anvil.

The tin snips, I purchase, were too big to handle. I got better
control with an aviation pair. But the big ones are better to use
when
the coin blanks are thicker.

The stump, I am using, needs it bottom cut flat.

  Well I did learn from my mistakes. So the experiment is not a lost
but just not productive.

Greetings unto all and I hope all is well with everyone,

         I am sure that you would all like to know what the heck it is
that you have gotten yourself into and can you get out again.(grin)
         Sure you can always get out,just pay the fine,(just a joke
man),Well to begin with I should say I am a middle timer in the
Society and have been active for about 18 years come Nov.
          I met and married my lady there and raised four children
there as well.
          Along the way I came up with this CRAZY idea that I could
make coins and have lots of fun doing it,and it worked,so I spread
the
insanity amoung my friends and here we go...
          My first offical action was to establish The Cynaguan
Moneyers Guild a part of the West,In short order we became the West
Kingdom Moneyers Guild.
          In about '93 at the Joint work shop of Moneyers of West and
An Tir held every year at the West/An Tir War we established the
InterKingdom Guild which I still administer if somewhat lightly due
to
little or uncommon intrest until now.
          I can say in all truth that I have acted as advisor to many
differnt folks over the years but the current growth rate makes me a
happy man.
         So I would like to say I wish all of you a bright future in
coining,and I welcome all newbie Moneyers with open arms and
affectionate feelings from this old Moneying Grandpa.

         "Into whatever lands I roam or lords I serve,my craft goes
with me."
              Quote is from a portion of the Journeymans Oath of the
West Kingdom Moneyers Guild.

     best to you,

     Emmerich

Contact James Coffman at2306 Albee Eureka Ca. 95501.
Master Emmerich sells a handbook for $10.
Coins were both struck and cast.
Could you post the source about the leather coins.
Jasper
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

Hi guys,
     I've been interested in doing some coins here in the East Kingdom for
some time.  I've got an interesting article from a leather magazine - about
period leather coins.  Anybody ever see it?
     What I'm especially interested in is in engraving a die, and info on
whether coins were cast or just die struck.

Kind regards,
Bre

Mistress Brianna Yseulte Wynman
Crafty Fox Artworks
www.craftyfox.com

Well hello there Jasper!  Guess who?  You coining bud over here in
Georgia!  Welcome to the list man!  Check out the links section here for
starters.

--
Ld. Gryffri de Newmarch
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA

Hi  I am Jasper Murtagh,
And I am trying to get into making my own coins.
Plus starting a guild in Meridies.

Any suggest/ help would be appreciated.

Jasper

Well we over here in Meridies are finally trying to get our
collective
coins in a sack and form a brotherhood/guild of coin operators. <g>

Come visit us and comment on our new home >>>
http://www2.gasou.edu/SCA/mmg

We could use your collective links, knowledge and anything else of
value that can be pressed into some form of exchange.  Take this
golden opportunity to line our pockets with your knowledge.  A penny
for your thoughts!

Gryffri

>>    Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 23:56:32 -0700
>    From: Herr Malachias <capt_malachias@...>
> Subject: Cheap American Pewter
>
> Hello there!
>
> I accidentally deleted the thread on where to get cheap American pewter -
> any leads?
>
> I am estimating needing at least 20 pounds - I need to cast between
> 1000-2000 coins that are about the size of a silver dollar.  Any
> suggested adjustments to this estimate would be appreciated.
>
> Herr Malachias von Morgenstern, Kapitän der Galatea
> Syndic of the Loyal Guild of Saint Erasmus - We put the "Sea" in SCA!
> Royal Artificer of the Kingdom of the West
>
> capt_malachias <AT> juno.com

Write:
Steven M Kaplan / Hallmark Metal - Pewter Supplier
<hallmark.metal@...>

On Mon, 03 Apr 2000 05:36:25 -0700 Edwin Hewitt <brogoose@...> writes:
>
> >    Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 23:56:32 -0700
> >    From: Herr Malachias <capt_malachias@...>
> > Subject: Cheap American Pewter
> >
> > Hello there!
> >
> > I accidentally deleted the thread on where to get cheap American
> pewter - any leads?     Herr Malachias von Morgenstern, Kapitän der
> Galatea
>
> Any leads?  That's a rather obvious pun....  Was it intentional?

I am ashamed to admit it, but no.  It was a good one, though. . .

Thanks!

Malachias
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

>    Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 23:56:32 -0700
>    From: Herr Malachias <capt_malachias@...>
> Subject: Cheap American Pewter
>
> Hello there!
>
> I accidentally deleted the thread on where to get cheap American pewter - any
leads?     Herr Malachias von Morgenstern, Kapitän der Galatea

Any leads?  That's a rather obvious pun....  Was it intentional?

Try the following links:
http://www.welcocastings.com/industries/jewellery.htm
http://fryconquest.com/leadfree.htm
http://www.riogrande.com
http://www.micromark.com/casting.html

Hello there!

I accidentally deleted the thread on where to get cheap American pewter -
any leads?

I am estimating needing at least 20 pounds - I need to cast between
1000-2000 coins that are about the size of a silver dollar.  Any
suggested adjustments to this estimate would be appreciated.

Herr Malachias von Morgenstern, Kapitän der Galatea
Syndic of the Loyal Guild of Saint Erasmus - We put the "Sea" in SCA!
Royal Artificer of the Kingdom of the West

capt_malachias <AT> juno.com

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

This kinda pisses me off, my "family filter" was on. Here's how to turn
it off (if you so desire)

  Hrothgar
-
> From: Kirsten Houseknecht <kirsten@...>
> Subject: [Norsefolk] news about onelist, important
> Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:52 AM
>
> Onelist has added a new feature, and didnt tell anyone!
> they have added a "family filter"
> not a problem, except the default is "ON" and they didnt tell anyone!
> this has been slowing down mail, and preventing some mail from getting
> through!
>
> HOW TO REMOVE THE "FAMILY FILTER"
>          (forwarded from shadoerose)
> go to www.onelist.com
>
>     Once you are logged on make sure you are on the home page. You should
> see a
> section that says join a group and has a search engine for the site. Right
> above the
> search engine you will see a text line that will say Family Filter On or
> Family
> Filter Off. Most likely will say Family Filter On as so far everybody's
> has. Click
> on the text line it will take you to a page with the following:
>
> O Family Filter On
>
> If the circle is marked click on it and then press done. This will turn the
> Family
> Filter Off and you will receive all your emails without intervention from
> Onelist.
>
> and now my two cents........
>
> EVERYONE write and complain, and forward this to every group you are on!
> i dont mind that they have a filter, i mind them not telling me that they
> turned it ON
> i checked and mine was on too.. and i dont even know what i missed!
>
> Kirsten
> kirsten@...
> http://www.fabricdragon.com
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
> Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
> registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
> http://click.egroups.com/1/2623/4/_/657830/_/953998134/
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Community email addresses:
>   Post message: Metalcasting@onelist.com
>   Subscribe:    Metalcasting-subscribe@onelist.com
>   Unsubscribe:  Metalcasting-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>   List owner:   Metalcasting-owner@onelist.com
>
> Shortcut URL to this page:
>   http://www.onelist.com/community/Metalcasting

--
Rev. Mike Martin  Lord Hrothgar the Smith
http://members.xoom.com/hrothgar
        TarKhan Blood Moon, Irgen Tala-Yin Chinnus-Un, Dark Horde
           Ring around the neutron, A pocket full of positrons,
                  A fission, a fusion, We all fall down!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

There's a nifty conversation about making uh, TOKENS (pronounced: coins)
over on metalcasting. If you aren't already subscribed, you can send an
email from the address from which you want to receive messages to:
Metalcasting-subscribe@onelist.com .

Walt Patrick has just been asked how he makes his dies for the barak. Be
sure not to miss that!

Jason
(the heads up man)

Greetings, makers of coin!

I am called James Talbot, and I would, if I may, learn
your craft.  I have worked armor in the past, and dabbled
in the casting of small items using the lost wax method.
My interest lies not so much in reproducing period
coinage, but more in reproducing period techniques.

YIS

-- James Talbot

Just my opinion
At 11:03 AM 11/17/99 -0000, you wrote:
>
>Message: 1
>   Date: 16 Nov 1999 14:00:29 -0000
>   From: jrb33@...
>Subject: Information needed
>
>I'm sorry if this is a re-post.  I tried to send this yesterday, but haven't
>seen any evidence that it went through.

One list does seem lame, and you cant just subscribe (as you obviously
found out) you have to "Join" as well.


>
>I've got a few questions:
>1) What are folks using for dies?  I've read some information that sounds
like
>   they are using simple mild steel, some sound like they are using tool
steel.
I have used both cut off grade 5 bolts, O1 & W1 tool steel, in the form of
drill rod. Some people I know would advocate using one of the fancy air
hardening tool steels with good shock resistance.

I usually do not harden the face, but have in the past. I don't think it is
worth the effort. If I wanted to do it again I would have it professionally
done.


>   How well will mild steel hold up to the abuse of striking thousands of
>   coins?
Not well. The usage is similar to making a cold chisel, would you make that
out of mild?




>2) What metals are you using for coin blanks?  Some obvoius choices are
>   pewter, brass, bronze, silver, etc...  Are there any suggestions of
what to
>   use??  Obviously, coppper alloys (brass and bronze) will be much harder
to
>   strike, and will wear the dies more quickly.  I'd ideally like to find
>   good solutions for both a white metal as well as a yellow metal.
Lead free Pewter for me for the most part. Actually 95/5 alloy.
Some silver from sterling sheet, and a Little copper and brass (VERY little)


>
>3) How are you getting the blanks cut?

For the most part I am not. I use a small "blob" of the pewter and hammer
the blank between two polished die faces. Now if I had a large enough
punch, I would sheet cast the alloy and then punch them out.

One period method is actually to cut the blanks out using shears. I have
done that as well. Its a pain.

> Are there companies that sell disks
>   that work well?? (or am I just going to have to punch them myself with a
>   whitney punch)  If there are companies out there, how much does it cost to
>   get the disks?
>
>Thanks--


Chandra

I'm sorry if this is a re-post.  I tried to send this yesterday, but haven't
seen any evidence that it went through.

I'm just getting started in coining.  I have quite a bit of experience in
metalworking (particularly in armouring), but I don't have much experience
to draw from for coining.

I've got a few questions:
1) What are folks using for dies?  I've read some information that sounds like
    they are using simple mild steel, some sound like they are using tool steel.
    How well will mild steel hold up to the abuse of striking thousands of
    coins?

2) What metals are you using for coin blanks?  Some obvoius choices are
    pewter, brass, bronze, silver, etc...  Are there any suggestions of what to
    use??  Obviously, coppper alloys (brass and bronze) will be much harder to
    strike, and will wear the dies more quickly.  I'd ideally like to find
    good solutions for both a white metal as well as a yellow metal.

3) How are you getting the blanks cut?  Are there companies that sell disks
    that work well?? (or am I just going to have to punch them myself with a
    whitney punch)  If there are companies out there, how much does it cost to
    get the disks?

Thanks--

--James--

Sorry if this is a multiple

>To: sca_moneyer@onelist.com
>From: jklessig <jklessig@...>
>Subject: class notes
>
>I have placed my class notes for a coining class on my web page,
>(www.slip.net/~jklessig) and a couple of the pictures of period dies and
coins that I have.
>
>The class notes are just that, reminders to go along with a hands
>on class, not a detailed tutorial. I no longer use 7/8" dies,
>now it is mostly 5/8 drill rod for my dies.
>
>IF you want more photos, let me know. I have an album full.
>
>

>From: James Ackerson <jackerso@...>
>
>Greetings!
>
>I am Roderick Connal MacLeod.  I have lived in the north for all of my short
>SCA life. (5 years)  I started out in the Shire of Duthaich Beinn Aird,
>a.k.a. Ard Thir.  I currently live in the Barony of Caerthe.
>
>I have just recently discovered an interest in period coining, and would
>very much like to learn more about the process of making both cast and
>hammered coins.
>



   OK. Cast coins are a subset of period coinage. Casting coins is a much
slower process than hammered coinage. It has been used periodically over
the years, but it was not the predominate way of making coins. (I could argue
that it was a more likely means of forgery than primary coin making).

   I'll give some of my process for making hammered coins:

   First, I cheat. I'm lazy. Depending upon the coin, I either order flat sheet
material, or precut disks.

   Pewter is a good metal to start with. Fairly soft and you can melt down your
mistakes. I order 6x12 inch 22 gauge sheets from a supplier. I can then
punch out 72 1 inch disks.

   Silver sheet is fairly similar. You could get brass or bronze sheeting also.

   [My next project is to start at scratch with straight copper and tin and
finish with stamped bronze coins].

   The precut disks are a little more expensive, but useful when you're in
a rush. They do not look period. The edges are too even. Indian Jewlers Supply
has sterling silver, red brass, and nickle disks.

   For the die, I use 1 inch mild steel [1040]. I size the pieces by the
expected number of uses. Mild steel will mushroom out and distort. You can
grind it true periodically. If I have a design that I know will be a single
short run, I'll cut the die to about 1 inch. No particular reason, but I
find it works well. Don't cut a piece this short if you're planning to stamp
thousands of coins. For longer term dies, use 2-3 inch pieces.

   I have a small punch set made from tool steel in various forms. You'll
need a small circular punch for points in the steel. Size out about 3 or
4 straight edges of various widths for your lettering. Size out an equal
number of "C" shaped punches that will be the same width as your straight
punches. That's a good basic set. You do not need each and every letter
for your punches. What you do is rotate the punches as needed. An "S" is
nothing more than a "C" with a reversed "C" connected underneath.

   About 80% of the coin designs I use is made by a small straight edge.

   For my coin design, I draw it in normal fashion on graph paper to the
same size as my coin. I figure that I can punch anything I draw. Some
people make their design as 2x the coin size, then reduce it in a copier.
Once I am settled on the design, I hold the paper up to the light and draw the
reverse design on another sheet I lay over the design.

  Once the design is transferred to a reverse image, affix it to the die.
Rubber cement works well.

   Inscribe the design.

   Here's where I get lazy again. To stamp out the coin, I use a treadle
hammer. If you've never seen one, this is a hammer mounted about chest high
and is weighted and counterweighted so that you can use your foot or hands
to slam the hammer down, then it bounces back up into it's normal position.
I've cranked out a couple hundred coins in an hour with this thing. I
suspect that someone used to swinging a hammer this much would actually be
faster.

   I use a small piece of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the
width of the die, but cut open on one side to allow access with fingers or
pliers. I set one of the die pieces into the pipe. I feed the blank into
the pipe, then drop in the other die, set it on the hammer plate, then hammer
it. Pop off the top die, rotate the pipe and the coin drops out. Pick up
another blank and repeat the process.

   Some of the materials will need to be heated to make an impression. I
keep a hot plate just next to the hammer and pull them off. You'll need
to experiment some to get a good temperature. I found that red brass works
well just when the color shifts to a deep reddish shade. If you go too far,
the material you are working with will build up an oxidation layer. The
steel die I described will need to be cooled fairly frequently. Plain water
will work.

Owain ap Maredudd

Greetings!

I am Roderick Connal MacLeod.  I have lived in the north for all of my short
SCA life. (5 years)  I started out in the Shire of Duthaich Beinn Aird,
a.k.a. Ard Thir.  I currently live in the Barony of Caerthe.

I have just recently discovered an interest in period coining, and would
very much like to learn more about the process of making both cast and
hammered coins.

Roderick

-----Original Message-----
From: sca_moneyer@onelist.com [mailto:sca_moneyer@onelist.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 10:37 AM
To: sca_moneyer@onelist.com
Subject: [sca_moneyer] Digest Number 0
   Just to get some traffic going..

   My SCA name is Owain ap Maredudd. Been off-and-on SCA for about 15
years (mostly off). Been making coins for a couple years.

   I live in the Northern Outlands in the Barony of Unser Hafen. Spend
most of my SCA time doing metal work. Coins seemed to be an extension
of what I was doing, so I got drafted by the Baron to make some coins
for events.

   So, what are your backgrounds? What sort of info are you looking
to share or learn from?

Owain ap Maredudd


____________________________________________________________________________
___
____________________________________________________________________________
___

Just to get some traffic going..

   My SCA name is Owain ap Maredudd. Been off-and-on SCA for about 15
years (mostly off). Been making coins for a couple years.

   I live in the Northern Outlands in the Barony of Unser Hafen. Spend
most of my SCA time doing metal work. Coins seemed to be an extension
of what I was doing, so I got drafted by the Baron to make some coins
for events.

   So, what are your backgrounds? What sort of info are you looking
to share or learn from?

Owain ap Maredudd

This is a test to see if the email list is working properly yet.

Owain ap Maredudd