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#122 From: Joshua Badgley <fsjlb4@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 11:34 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Interesting period Japanese name
fsjlb4@...
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Does anybody else know of a Japanese individual, who encouraged Francis
Xavier to come to Japan, named Paul Yajiro (I can't remember the last name
right now, and I don't have the book handy)?  Apparently he was a fugitive
from Japan and converted to Christianity, and I am guessing that is why he
is named Paul (Definitely not a Japanese name).

Does anybody else know more about this individual?  Has anyone considered
using a Christian name like that for a Japanese persona?  (I would not
want to see it abused, but it would be interesting to see it at least
once).


-Godric Logan

#123 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 3:53 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
akimoya@...
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On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Barbara Nostrand wrote:

> The language and the poetic form. Regradless, there are books full
> of these things.
>
> Tarou pretty much means #1 son just like in Charlie Chan movies.
>
> Toro is a root.

OK, so what is "taro"?  And who, or what, what "Tarokaja"?

And here's another stupid question:

What form of romanji translation system are most people using?  The "ou"
ending to denote a long "o" is one form, and using two "oo"s is another,
and isn't there a third which uses an accent over the "o"?

I never could get used to the "ou" style, myself.

Akimoya
Ealdormere

#124 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 5:00 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Interesting period Japanese name
ajbryant@...
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Joshua Badgley wrote:

> Does anybody else know of a Japanese individual, who encouraged Francis
> Xavier to come to Japan, named Paul Yajiro (I can't remember the last name
> right now, and I don't have the book handy)?  Apparently he was a fugitive
> from Japan and converted to Christianity, and I am guessing that is why he
> is named Paul (Definitely not a Japanese name).
>
> Does anybody else know more about this individual?  Has anyone considered
> using a Christian name like that for a Japanese persona?  (I would not
> want to see it abused, but it would be interesting to see it at least
> once).

I translated a brief biography of him a few years ago for a Japanese class.
There's actually some debate on his name; Anjiro, Yajiro, Ajiro... He was the
first Japanese Christian. If you want, I can send you an e-text of the bio.
It's about 10 pages long, IIRC.

Tony

#125 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 5:35 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
ajbryant@...
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akimoya wrote:

> On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Barbara Nostrand wrote:
>
> > The language and the poetic form. Regradless, there are books full
> > of these things.
> >
> > Tarou pretty much means #1 son just like in Charlie Chan movies.
> >
> > Toro is a root.
>
> OK, so what is "taro"?  And who, or what, what "Tarokaja"?

Taro (short O) is a taro. A kind of 'tater.  In English, it's called (ta
dah!) taro.

Taro (long O) is Tarou (or Taro^, or in names often just Taro since it's so
common we know what it is) is a common name for a first-born son.

Taro(u)kaja is the buffoon character in kyo(u)gen, usually a "wise-idiot"
servant who always bests his master.

> And here's another stupid question:
>
> What form of romanji translation system are most people using?  The "ou"
> ending to denote a long "o" is one form, and using two "oo"s is another,
> and isn't there a third which uses an accent over the "o"?

Modified Hepburn. The common modification is NOT to make final N an M
before consonants (e.g., instead of shimbun, we use shinbun). The reason
for the modification is logic; while Hepburn takes shuppan (publish) and
makes the N an M as in shuppambutsu (published material), it doesn't make
the N in Nihon an M in Nihonbashi (Japan bridge). That's just senseless;
either it changes or it doesn't. Many people say, feh. I'm not changing it.

OU is correct for most long vowels. OO is only correct for a few (ooki,
ooi, etc.). When you start writing in hiragana (or typing in Japanese),
you'll realize that there's a reason for using ou and oo. If you can use
macrons (or circumflexes in a pinch), great. If not, you should probably
use ou or oo where needed to specify long "o" sounds. In words where you
*know* the context or word, it's not as vital. (We all know shogun, daimyo,
and so on, for example.) In other cases, you need to specify. There was a
powerful daimyo family called Mori. There was also a powerful daimyo family
called Mo^ri (Mouri).

The problem with not using macrons is that there can be confusion. Is Mouri
MOU + RI, or MO + U + RI? It's like people who use "H" to indicate long
vowels. I hate it. Is "dohyo" DOU YO or DO HYO? Never use H for long
sounds, despite what people named Katoh or Satoh may think. (Although they
can do whatever they want with their names, but the "official" romanization
is Kato^ /Katou and Sato^/Satou.)

> I never could get used to the "ou" style, myself.

Try. <G>


Effingham

#126 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 8:17 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
akimoya@...
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On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Anthony J. Bryant wrote:

> > OK, so what is "taro"?  And who, or what, what "Tarokaja"?
>
> Taro (short O) is a taro. A kind of 'tater.  In English, it's called (ta
> dah!) taro.

I think I et one, once...

> Modified Hepburn. The common modification is NOT to make final N an M
> before consonants (e.g., instead of shimbun, we use shinbun). The reason
> for the modification is logic; while Hepburn takes shuppan (publish) and
> makes the N an M as in shuppambutsu (published material), it doesn't make
> the N in Nihon an M in Nihonbashi (Japan bridge). That's just senseless;
> either it changes or it doesn't. Many people say, feh. I'm not changing it.

Makes sense to me.

> OU is correct for most long vowels. OO is only correct for a few (ooki,
> ooi, etc.). When you start writing in hiragana (or typing in Japanese),
> you'll realize that there's a reason for using ou and oo.

So, if "oo" is the infrequent version, why not assign it "ou" instead?
I'd be more apt to pronounce "oo" as a long o than "ou", which to my
English eye should be pronounced "ew", as in "you".

Who was this Hepburn dude, anyway?

> > I never could get used to the "ou" style, myself.
>
> Try. <G>
>
> Effingham

For you, Effy dear, anything! <*smooch*>

Ak
(a fool in any culture)

#127 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 9:40 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
ajbryant@...
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akimoya wrote:

> > OU is correct for most long vowels. OO is only correct for a few (ooki,
> > ooi, etc.). When you start writing in hiragana (or typing in Japanese),
> > you'll realize that there's a reason for using ou and oo.
>
> So, if "oo" is the infrequent version, why not assign it "ou" instead?
> I'd be more apt to pronounce "oo" as a long o than "ou", which to my
> English eye should be pronounced "ew", as in "you".

Because it's Japanese, not English. The Japanese is long "o" sound is *spelled*
with the kana O and U, except, as mentioned, in a few cases when it's spelled
with the kana O and O. <G>

>
> Who was this Hepburn dude, anyway?

A missionary and a scholar of Japanese.

> For you, Effy dear, anything! <*smooch*>

Ooh, BAYbee!


Effingham

#128 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 8:45 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
akimoya@...
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On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Anthony J. Bryant wrote:

> Because it's Japanese, not English. The Japanese is long "o" sound is
> *spelled* with the kana O and U, except, as mentioned, in a few cases
> when it's spelled with the kana O and O. <G>

It *would* be something that made sense, wouldn't it?

> > For you, Effy dear, anything! <*smooch*>
>
> Ooh, BAYbee!

Is that a long "o", or an "oo"?

Ak-ak-a-dak

#129 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 1999 9:59 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
ajbryant@...
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akimoya wrote:

> >
> > Ooh, BAYbee!
>
> Is that a long "o", or an "oo"?

BAD Akimoya. Bad. You must be smitten. (Smited? Smote? Smut? <g>)

Effingham

#130 From: Barbara Nostrand <nostrand@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 12:52 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Interesting period Japanese name
nostrand@...
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Noble Cousin!

I am not familiar with the individual that you are citing, however there
are pleanty of examples of Japanese with baptismal names effectively
slotted in with the rest of their other names. Some individuals appear
to have had both Buddhist names in religion and baptismal names.
Can you spell syncretic?

					 Your Humble Servant
					 Solveig Throndardottir
					 Amateur Scholar

+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Barbara Nostrand, Ph.D.         | Solveig Throndardottir, CoM       |
| de Moivre Institute             | Carolingia Statis Mentis Est      |
| mailto:nostrand@...         | mailto:bnostran@...      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ignored domains: bestbiz.net, pop.net, hotmail.com, aibusiness.com  |
|                  vdi.net, usa.net, tpnet.pl, myremarq.com           |
|                  netscape.net, excite.com, bigfoot.com, public.com  |
|                  com.tw, eranet.net, yahoo.com, success.net         |
|                  mailcity.com, net.tw, twac.com, netcenter.com      |
| 	   techie.com 				      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+

#131 From: Barbara Nostrand <nostrand@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 1:08 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
nostrand@...
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Noble Cousins!

There are several different ways of writing Japanese using Roman
letters. Most professional scholars like to use the Hepburn system
which places macrons over certain long letters. E.H.Jordan used a
different system which attempted to closely mimic Japanese phonetic
orthography. For certain purposes, I prefer to use a sytem which
uses something akin to Jordan's system for vowels and English style
consonant clusters for certain consonants. This is sometimes
derisively refered to as Wordpro Japanese by Japanese professors. The
fact is that Japanese word processors are rather commonly equiped
with this sort of system and it does better reflect what is going on
in kana than does Hepburn. I used a version of wordpro Japanese in
my pamphlet as I was interested in emphasising what was going on
in Japanese instead of simply coming up with a list of canonical
English transliterations. One of my major points was that the
Kanji form of Japanese names is quite important and not simply
incidental. Previously, many people in the College of Arms had been
treating kanji and any notion of meaning as being unimportant in
Japanese names. I also wanted to try to explain how coarticulation
works to produce sound changes Okawa --> Ogawa.

Now then. For vowel clusters. Various Japanese linguists now
contend that paleo Japanese did not have any vowel clusters
and Japnaese strictly followed a C-V sound pattern. At some
point (possibly as early as 800 according to some scholars)
various consonants became subarticulated and what are now long
vowels emerged. Thus, a long "o" may have originally been either
a "ho ho" or a "ho hu". Note. The "h" column is much more of an
aspiration in Japanese than in English and the resulting "fu"
(in the "h" column) is a bilabial in Japanese instead of being
a labial-dental as in English.

>OK, so what is "taro"?  And who, or what, what "Tarokaja"?

He is a servant character which frequently shows up in kyougen.
The "o" is a double-time "long oh".

				 Your Humble Servant
				 Solveig Throndardottir
				 Amateur Scholar

+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Barbara Nostrand, Ph.D.         | Solveig Throndardottir, CoM       |
| de Moivre Institute             | Carolingia Statis Mentis Est      |
| mailto:nostrand@...         | mailto:bnostran@...      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ignored domains: bestbiz.net, pop.net, hotmail.com, aibusiness.com  |
|                  vdi.net, usa.net, tpnet.pl, myremarq.com           |
|                  netscape.net, excite.com, bigfoot.com, public.com  |
|                  com.tw, eranet.net, yahoo.com, success.net         |
|                  mailcity.com, net.tw, twac.com, netcenter.com      |
| 	   techie.com 				      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+

#132 From: Barbara Nostrand <nostrand@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 1:18 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
nostrand@...
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Noble Cousin!

>So, if "oo" is the infrequent version, why not assign it "ou" instead?
>I'd be more apt to pronounce "oo" as a long o than "ou", which to my
>English eye should be pronounced "ew", as in "you".

As I posted earlier. Linguistic history. It was originally written
something like "Oho" and later became "Oo". Japanese doe NOT have
an alphabet. It has two syllabic writing systems which correspond
exactly to each other in much the same way that upper and lower case
do in English. There is a single character for a "ho" and a different
single character for a "o". The ONLY consonant which gets its own
character is syllabic "N". All syllables get the SAME (more or less)
amount of time. Thus, Oho (now oo) takes about twice as long as a
simple "o". Ancient Japanese had many many more Ofu pairs than it did
Oho pairs. Consequently, modern Japanese has many more "ou" pairs
than "oo" pairs. Every time you see a vowel think SYLABLE and it will
make a LOT more sense.

					 Your Humble Servant
					 Solveig Thorndardottir
					 Amateur Scholar




+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Barbara Nostrand, Ph.D.         | Solveig Throndardottir, CoM       |
| de Moivre Institute             | Carolingia Statis Mentis Est      |
| mailto:nostrand@...         | mailto:bnostran@...      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ignored domains: bestbiz.net, pop.net, hotmail.com, aibusiness.com  |
|                  vdi.net, usa.net, tpnet.pl, myremarq.com           |
|                  netscape.net, excite.com, bigfoot.com, public.com  |
|                  com.tw, eranet.net, yahoo.com, success.net         |
|                  mailcity.com, net.tw, twac.com, netcenter.com      |
| 	   techie.com 				      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+

#133 From: Barbara Nostrand <nostrand@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 1:21 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
nostrand@...
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Noble Cousins!

If Baron Edward were Ignatius O'Reilley of A Confederacy of Dunces"
he would have said "lashed".

					 Your Humble Servant
					 Solveig Throndardottir
					 Amateur Scholar



+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Barbara Nostrand, Ph.D.         | Solveig Throndardottir, CoM       |
| de Moivre Institute             | Carolingia Statis Mentis Est      |
| mailto:nostrand@...         | mailto:bnostran@...      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ignored domains: bestbiz.net, pop.net, hotmail.com, aibusiness.com  |
|                  vdi.net, usa.net, tpnet.pl, myremarq.com           |
|                  netscape.net, excite.com, bigfoot.com, public.com  |
|                  com.tw, eranet.net, yahoo.com, success.net         |
|                  mailcity.com, net.tw, twac.com, netcenter.com      |
| 	   techie.com 				      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+

#134 From: Joshua Badgley <fsjlb4@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 11:37 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
fsjlb4@...
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On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Anthony J. Bryant wrote:

> > So, if "oo" is the infrequent version, why not assign it "ou" instead?
> > I'd be more apt to pronounce "oo" as a long o than "ou", which to my
> > English eye should be pronounced "ew", as in "you".
>
> Because it's Japanese, not English. The Japanese is long "o" sound is
*spelled*
> with the kana O and U, except, as mentioned, in a few cases when it's spelled
> with the kana O and O. <G>
>
And the Japanese will explain the difference in sound to you as well.  You
might not realize it, but they can tell the difference between Kato, Katou
and Katoo.

-Godric aka Joshua Badgley

#135 From: Kev Fitzpatrick <sarusaru_99@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 5:37 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Leather and Japanese Armor
sarusaru_99@...
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Could someone please enlighten me as to the use (if
any) of leather in Japanese armor (e.g. cuir boulli)?


Kevin


=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

#136 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 8:00 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
akimoya@...
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On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Anthony J. Bryant wrote:

> > > Ooh, BAYbee!
> >
> > Is that a long "o", or an "oo"?
>
> BAD Akimoya. Bad. You must be smitten. (Smited? Smote? Smut? <g>)

With you, or by you?

I didn't know you were *that* kinky!

Akimoya
(quit while you're ahead)

#137 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 9:26 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
ajbryant@...
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akimoya wrote:

> I didn't know you were *that* kinky!

My motto:

One does what one can (get away with).


Effingham

#138 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 8:49 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
akimoya@...
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On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Barbara Nostrand wrote:

> Every time you see a vowel think SYLABLE and it will
> make a LOT more sense.

OK, so "Do itashimashite" is actually "Do(h)o itashimshite", and should be
spelled "Dou itashimashite"?

I wish I knew more about Japanese orthography and etymology..

Akimoya

#139 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 10:00 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
ajbryant@...
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akimoya wrote:

> On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Barbara Nostrand wrote:
>
> > Every time you see a vowel think SYLABLE and it will
> > make a LOT more sense.
>
> OK, so "Do itashimashite" is actually "Do(h)o itashimshite", and should be
> spelled "Dou itashimashite"?

Not quite. TODAY it is "dou". A century ago, it was spelled "dofu" but
pronounced "dou." MANY MANY MANY centuries ago, it WAS pronounced "dofu," or
so they think.

> I wish I knew more about Japanese orthography and etymology..

If you study it at a university, you will learn this and more. Much more. Oh,
Lord, much more. My head hurts.


Effingham

#140 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 1999 9:23 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Kimono Creation
akimoya@...
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On Wed, 10 Nov 1999, Anthony J. Bryant wrote:

> > OK, so "Do itashimashite" is actually "Do(h)o itashimshite", and should be
> > spelled "Dou itashimashite"?
>
> Not quite. TODAY it is "dou". A century ago, it was spelled "dofu" but
> pronounced "dou." MANY MANY MANY centuries ago, it WAS pronounced "dofu," or
> so they think.

You're right, my bad - "do(h)o" would be "doo", and "do(f)u" would be
"dou".

See, I learned something already!

Akimoya
(whou sezs you can't teech an Aulde Phart noo trix?)

#141 From: Joshua Badgley <fsjlb4@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 1999 5:01 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Leather and Japanese Armor
fsjlb4@...
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On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Kev Fitzpatrick wrote:

> Could someone please enlighten me as to the use (if
> any) of leather in Japanese armor (e.g. cuir boulli)?
>
From what I have seen, leather was used quite extensively in Japanese
armours.  First, I have noticed it apparently used as a backing for many
of the metal armours that I have seen, acting as a kind of padding, or so
it appeared (I wasn't able to handle it, unfortunately, just what I
noticed through the glass).  Furthermore, I believe that kozone were often
laquered leather or rawhide ( I don't have my sources and it was hard to
be certain, so please look this up for accuracy).

Finally, I do know that leather strapping was used to hold and tie
everything together (along with silk).

Come to think of it, I believe that Arms and Armour of the Samurai, by Ian
Bottomley and Stephen Turnbull, has at least one fully leather suit of
armour in it.  Consult it for more info.


-Godric Logan

PS- Seeing as how I am in Japan, does anyone have names of good Japanese
books to check for in the local library?  Anything would be appreciated

#142 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Sun Nov 14, 1999 6:39 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Eboshi?
akimoya@...
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Haifuku:

I've been searching for some time for information about the various styles
of eboshi, who wore them and when (according to ranke, etc), and most
especially, how they were made.  So far, I haven't been very sucessful.
Does anyone have any sources they could point me to?  English preferred,
but if a Japanese site has lots of pictures, I could deal with that, too.

Arigato,
Akimoya
Ealdormere

#143 From: "Ogami Itto" <shubnigurath@...>
Date: Thu Dec 2, 1999 12:17 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Clothing, movies, and etc.
shubnigurath@...
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Happy thanksgiving to everyone!
      I've got a couple of questions for today and two statements.
      Statement one: I have just purchased a copy of Edward-tono's role
playing game called "Sengoku", which I recommend, if nothing else, for
the rather extensive list of books and movies contained in the
bibliography.  It looks like I have a bit of reading to do, and it
would take an act of God for me to even track down all the movies
listed.
      Statement two:  I have found a website offering such classics as
Lone Wolf and Cub, Zatoichi, Sleepy Eyes of Death, Lady Snowblood, and
a bunch of others for sale.  If any of you out there are movie freaks
like me, it might be of interest.  The site is http://www.videoz.com.
Look for their Samurai Cinema section.
      Now that I have all my unpaid advertisements out of the way, I
would pose a few questions.
      Question one:  I have recently seen Ran for the first time (yeah,
yeah, I know...), and I was wondering exactly what that garment that
all the lords seemed to be wearing was.  It appears to be somewhat
longer than waist length, has a cord in the front to tie it shut
(somewhat like a haori), and has a collar like a haori.  But the
sleeves are long and poofy, attached only at the top of the shoulder,
and have a cord around the wrist of the sleeve, somewhat like (pardon
if I mangle the spelling) a suikan.  I also noticed that this
particular garment was worn by the lords all the time (even when
hunting and traveling), and appeared to match the hakama in all cases.
Is this particular garment worn only by men of rank, or was it worn by
anyone that could afford it?  And does it have to match the hakama, or
is it proper to have it in a contrasting color or pattern?
      Question two:  How do I go about fashioning an eboshi such as was
worn by the lords?  It appeared to be laquered into shape, and had a
tie the went from the tip of the cap to the front, and tied around the
chin.  Clues, anyone?
      Question three: I noticed that hakama appeared to be in varying
length- was this a reflection on station, or for utility?
      Question four: When putting mon on garments, were they always
embroidered?  I ask because it is far cheaper to have it silk-screened,
but I don't know if this is proper or not.  (And I seem to be having a
tough time finding books that will answer the question...)

      That should do it for today.  Thank you again for your patience
with my foolishness.
                                                        Domo Arigato
Guzaimasu,
                                                        Ogami Itto

#144 From: "Anthony J. Bryant" <ajbryant@...>
Date: Thu Dec 2, 1999 2:40 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Clothing, movies, and etc.
ajbryant@...
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Ogami Itto wrote:

>      Statement one: I have just purchased a copy of Edward-tono's role
> playing game called "Sengoku", which I recommend, if nothing else, for
> the rather extensive list of books and movies contained in the
> bibliography.  It looks like I have a bit of reading to do, and it
> would take an act of God for me to even track down all the movies
> listed.

You should have seen the *original* bibliography; that's the Reader's
Digest version. <g>

>     Statement two:  I have found a website offering such classics as
> Lone Wolf and Cub, Zatoichi, Sleepy Eyes of Death, Lady Snowblood, and
> a bunch of others for sale.  If any of you out there are movie freaks
> like me, it might be of interest.  The site is http://www.videoz.com.
> Look for their Samurai Cinema section.

You can also get piles of samurai vids from Gold Rush Games, the publishers
of Sengoku.

>      Question one:  I have recently seen Ran for the first time (yeah,
> yeah, I know...), and I was wondering exactly what that garment that
> all the lords seemed to be wearing was.

It's a hitatare, the standard daywear garment for samurai from around
1400-1580. After about 1580, the kataginu more or less replaced it in
common wear, and the hitatare converted to a more ceremonial garment.

The hitatare is typically made of matching material with the hakama, in
which case it's called a "hitatare kamishimo" or just "hitatare" for short.

It's a "double-width" garment (i.e., the body is two widths of fabric wide,
unlike the suikan and kariginu, which are single-width garments and so much
narrower. The sleeves are each 1 1/2 widths wide.

Patterns for all these are in the Japanese costume CA I'm writing now.

> Is this particular garment worn only by men of rank, or was it worn by
> anyone that could afford it?  And does it have to match the hakama, or
> is it proper to have it in a contrasting color or pattern?

It's samurai daywear. In the Heian Period, a version with more
close-fitting sleeves was the daywear of the common class and the
nightdress of the nobility. The samurai, being bumpkins, wore such clothing
on a day to day basis, and when they achieved more power, the garments were
fancied up. They became a sort of "off-duty" uniform, as opposed to the
suikan, which was the "on duty" garment, or the kariginu (the ceremonial
outfit) in the case of the upper classes. The middle and lower ranked
samurai kept the hitatare as their formal attire.

If you're early period (Heian), wearing a hitatare means you're lounging.
If you're Kamakura or Muromachi, it's common daywear. If you're late period
(say, after 1580), you're dressing up.

It's typical to match the hakama, but it doesn't have to. If it matches,
it's the same fabric and color. If it doesn't *it doesn't*. Close doesn't
count, as gaudy is in.

For the record, the kataginu is a development of the hitatare; take the
sleeves off and you have the period version of the kataginu. Samurai would
tie up (or even tie BACK, together at the middle of the back) the sleeves
for freedom of movement, and some would rip them off for action; this
became the kataginu.

>    Question two:  How do I go about fashioning an eboshi such as was
> worn by the lords?  It appeared to be laquered into shape, and had a
> tie the went from the tip of the cap to the front, and tied around the
> chin.  Clues, anyone?

It's hard to describe, but really easy to make. Yup, it's lacquered. I've
had decent luck with paper and spray lacquer.

Make a rectangle that is the length of half your forehead circumference
wide, and 1.5 times that tall. Now round the corners of the top by about
3-4" radius. You don't want an oval top, but you want something more akin
to a softened rectangle. This is the pattern. You will cut two of these of
heavy paper (or black fabric, which is also common for soft models), adding
1/2 inch for a seam allowance around the edges. Sew it up like a bag,
leaving the flat (bottom) unhemmed. You'll close that with gloss black bias
tape (I use gloss black nylon ribbon folded over a few times and ironed to
form the usual "bias tape" shape). Anyway, turn right side out, and press.

Draw an imaginary line from about 1 1/2 inches  up from the center front to
the back. This angle is about 45 degrees, so the front is 1 1/2 inches, the
back about 8 or 9. Fold on that line (you are folding the thing over to the
LEFT, so that if you look at the right side there is a straight line and no
flap, on the left you have a flap). Turn it over to the other side, and
repeat the 1 1/2 up and 45 degree line fold, only this time it's on the
BACK. Fold the flap toward you. (This means the big, first flap is to the
left of the hat, the second, smaller fold is to the right.)

Now open the hat, and as you do, press down and in on the center just in
front of the smaller fold. This will make the back end start to stand up.
You'll notice that the front center pokes up slightly like the prow of a
ship, and that the back bottom starts to bend *inwards*. That's why their
queue helped hold it on.

Believe it or not, that's all there is to it. That's the simple version;
there are about half a dozen different folds and patterns. These will also
be in the CA.

>
>      Question three: I noticed that hakama appeared to be in varying
> length- was this a reflection on station, or for utility?

They're all about the same size, generally. If you're taller, they "flood"
on you. They're all cut to more or less the same pattern. Poor people,
however, tended to have shorter hakama as they tried to conserve cloth
where ever they could. The only place with a true variation in cut is the
*style* of hakama -- it could be a simple two panel hakama (where each leg
is made of two widths of fabric) or a more fancy three panel hakama (with
three widths of fabric. It could even be the modern pattern which is
actually four panels and a fraction. Period hakama were no where near as
floppy as modern aikido models.

>    Question four: When putting mon on garments, were they always
> embroidered?

Hardly ever. They were invariably resist dyed. Silk-screening is the
closest thing to resist dying you can do -- much closer than embroidery
(which doesn't seem to have been used).

>      That should do it for today.  Thank you again for your patience
> with my foolishness.

Nonsense.... Not asking and making the outfits with no prep... now THAT'S
foolish. I know. I've done it. Sigh...



Effingham

#145 From: Kev Fitzpatrick <sarusaru_99@...>
Date: Tue Dec 7, 1999 10:54 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] When In Japan...
sarusaru_99@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Well actually I'm already here.  And I'm bored.  I'm
looking for things to see and do while I'm a
ryugakusei here this year.  If anyone has any
suggestions of places to go see and do (things that
weirdo people like us would be interested in) around
the area of Kyoto/Osaka (you know, Kansai) and maybe
even in Tokyo area, please be so kind as to inform me.
  I'm looking particularly for castles and museums that
have arms and armor collections on display.  Also, any
battlefields that aren't very hard to find would be
cool too.  Thanks for any help

Yoroshiku,
Kevin

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#146 From: Kev Fitzpatrick <sarusaru_99@...>
Date: Tue Dec 7, 1999 10:59 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Websites
sarusaru_99@...
Send Email Send Email
 
hey list groupies, another question.

Actually I know this is cheating and that we should
all have to search through the sea of unrelated
website matches out there, but I'm really tired of
that for the moment.  Does anybody have any
suggestions of cool or atleast informative websites
out there for the Japanese-interested SCAdian?

THanks again
Kevin, the lazy at the moment

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#147 From: akimoya <akimoya@...>
Date: Tue Dec 7, 1999 6:33 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: Websites
akimoya@...
Send Email Send Email
 
On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Kev Fitzpatrick wrote:

> Actually I know this is cheating and that we should
> all have to search through the sea of unrelated
> website matches out there, but I'm really tired of
> that for the moment.  Does anybody have any
> suggestions of cool or atleast informative websites
> out there for the Japanese-interested SCAdian?

You could start with mine, if you like:

http://www.hwcn.org/~aj233

Be warned, there is also weird stuff there...

Akimoya
Ealdormere

#148 From: BamboOni@...
Date: Wed Dec 8, 1999 8:04 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Fwd: [SCA-Archery] (fwd) New book on Chinese archery (fwd)
BamboOni@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Ohayo Everybody,
  I just got this from another list I'm on. Thought everyone might be
interested...

   Oni

>
>  Just received a copy of Stephen Selby's new book on Chinese archery called
>  (appropriately enough), "Chinese Archery."
>
>  >From what I've read so far, it's a very complete, well-researched and
>  interesting book on the subject. It has many color photos and b/w drawings
>  throughout. Covered in the book is the history of Chinese archery, famous
>  people involved, rituals, crafting of equipment (bows, arrows, targets),
>  etc., all the way up to the past century. Some entertaining stories are
told
>  which bring the subject to life.
>
>  If you have any interest in Asian archery, horn bows, history of archery,
>  etc., it would be well-worth your while to look at Stephen's book. You can
>  read more about it at the Asian Traditional Archery Research Network site
>  (www.atarn.org/commercial/book_ad.htm).
>
>
From: John Edgerton <sirjon@...>

From alt.archery. Looks interesting.

Jon


-- forwarded message --
From: "Thomas Duvernay" <chungho@....[remove nospam].net>
Newsgroups: rec.sport.archery,alt.archery
Subject: New book on Chinese archery
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 20:20:59 +0900

Just received a copy of Stephen Selby's new book on Chinese archery called
(appropriately enough), "Chinese Archery."

>From what I've read so far, it's a very complete, well-researched and
interesting book on the subject. It has many color photos and b/w drawings
throughout. Covered in the book is the history of Chinese archery, famous
people involved, rituals, crafting of equipment (bows, arrows, targets),
etc., all the way up to the past century. Some entertaining stories are told
which bring the subject to life.

If you have any interest in Asian archery, horn bows, history of archery,
etc., it would be well-worth your while to look at Stephen's book. You can
read more about it at the Asian Traditional Archery Research Network site
(www.atarn.org/commercial/book_ad.htm).


Thomas






-- end of forwarded message --

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#149 From: Kev Fitzpatrick <sarusaru_99@...>
Date: Fri Dec 17, 1999 2:44 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Japanese orgs in the SCA
sarusaru_99@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Are there any known groups within the SCA that deal
exclusively with Japanese personae and that kind of
stuff?

Thanks a lot
Kevin

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#150 From: Ron Martino <yumitori@...>
Date: Fri Dec 31, 1999 3:52 am
Subject: [SCA-JML] Happy New Year!
yumitori@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Happy New Year, more or less.

	 So who among this august gathering can tell me what I'm supposed to
write on New Year's cards?

	 Yumitori

#151 From: "Ogami Itto" <shubnigurath@...>
Date: Fri Dec 31, 1999 4:46 pm
Subject: [SCA-JML] Various stuff
shubnigurath@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Okay, a few questions to start.
      1.Hitatare kamishimo- looks like a haori jacket with suikan
sleeves.  Is it lined?  Any major difference between the body section
and a lined haori?  I take it that nage kamishimo is way, way post
period?
      2.In "Razor" and "Sleepy Eyes of Death" movies, Itami Hanzo and
Nemuri Kyushiro both wear kimono, but no hakama, vest, haori, etc.
What's up with that?  Is that considered proper for pre-Edo period, or
were hakama et al. considered de riguer?
      3.Is there any significant design difference between Edo and
pre-Edo period laquerware?  And where can I get that cashew laquer
stuff?  How much would I need for a small elbow rest/writing table?
      4.Mon- Will I get in trouble if I just grab a (more or less)
random one out of a "Big Book of Mon" and try to register it?  If that
is verboten, what is the best way to go about designing one?
      5.When in that @*&% CA coming out with clothing patterns?

      That should do it for now.  Any one that can help is greatly
appreciate it.
                                                          -Ogami Itto

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