http://www.portcarlingboats.com/Canoe.htm

Sadly lots of the links are dead - probably has
the owner has closed shop, or changed their
net address.

So not very up-to-date!

Tord

PS Have no better suggestion, though :-(!

 Dear CM,

 I wanted to ask you if you had designed it? Or was it a plan you bought? How did it handle? Did it sail well? Did it turn hard? What about the satability?

  It looked to me like a river boat, I used to see in Vietnam and was wondering.?

If you made it from scratch did you make up a plan? I liked the look of it and was wondering if I could get plans or?

Bryan Leeds aka theantiqueman

tunkhannock,PA 18657

http://www.portcarlingboats.com/Canoe.htm

http://www.portcarlingboats.com/Canoe.htm

  This link will show a large list of canoe builders and schools. And canoes for
sale.

  Enjoy,

       Bryan aka antiqueman

Hello,

I just joined in order to seek advice.

I´m presently in Iquitos, Peru. In Jan or Feb 2010 I´m going to the coast and
begin a journey to Panama. I plan on buying a canoe on the coast, convert it to
a sailing canoe and sail along the coast to Panama.

The canoes I´m talking are made from lapstrake planks. I´m thinking of one
around 18 feet. There are built very heavy with planks 1/2 to 1 inch think. I´ll
deck it over, install a rudder, leeboard and junk sail.

When I got to Iquitos a couple of years ago I bought on about 13 feet long but
used it it as a canoe on the rivers around Iquitos. I paid $50 for it.

I figure I can buy one on the coast, and convert it for a total of around $350.
Wood here is very cheap.

Any suggestions and/or advice is welcomed and appreciated.

Best regards,

tom

--- In sailing_canoes@yahoogroups.com, David Parish <dcp4570@...> wrote:
... Anyone know if there is an international code for that sort of
thing?

What do think?

If you really want to know: yes there is.

As far as life buoys are concerned: the LSA Code (international
Life-Saving Appliances code), mandatory under Regulation 34 of SOLAS
(the international Convention on Safety Of Life At Sea).

Addendum:

http://www.sr.se/cgi-bin/international/artikel.asp?artikel=3284105


Doesn't give any more info, sorry!

Tord

Hi all,

Sorry for cross-mailing :-(!

This is no fun news, but for once Swedish Radio
har made a shocking discovery:

Almost all life buoys sink!

To begin with one make (Greek) was tested
and theirs sank (the life buoy absorbs water
and being fairly rustic, sinks, if having been
exposed to rain recently, or when immersed
in water). So there is a design flaw, somehow.

Don't know the details, yet, sorry!

Today life buoys of eight makes have proved to sink,
representing (almost) all makers world wide!

Don't know how fast they sink, but most probable
is that the life buoys you see on the ferries where you live
are a bad joke!

Most life buoys on Scandinavian ferries have been replaced,
with others, but the question is, are any any good?!

That they have a stamp, that they have been approved
by the authority that approves such things have proved
just a sticker, an approved one sinks just as well as
an unapproved!

Jerry wrote:

> For some reason, my post didn't appear here until several days after
I had
> submitted it. The same thing happened with another post of mine, and
then
> all of a sudden the two posts (along with a few others that aren't
mine)
> showed up at the same time.

As Hajo explained it means you're still being moderated. A group
moderator will check your
posts a few times to make sure you're not a spammer. After a few
legitimate
posts you go of moderated status.

I moderate two yahoogroups using the same trick, and it has worked
excellently through the years.
If I am away it can take a few days, but normally the delay disappears
after the member's first
posting, unless I am suspecting something :-)! Then it takes more than
one posting!

Tord S Eriksson,
Bagboater & Australianfoldingkayak moderator & owner

Ah, thank you for the explanation. I am indeed a recent "signupee" to this
group. I'll wait it out.

-Jerry

--- In sailing_canoes@yahoogroups.com, Hajo Smulders <hajosmulders@...> wrote:
>
> It means you're still being moderated. A group moderator will check your
> posts a few times to make sure you're not a spammer. AFter a few legitimate
> posts you go of moderated status. I don't get spam from this group; so it
> works!
>
> Hajo
> --
> "If people get to my age and they have the people love them that they want
> to have love them, they're successful." ~Warren Buffett
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 2:03 AM, Jerry C <churchj@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For some reason, my post didn't appear here until several days after I had
> > submitted it. The same thing happened with another post of mine, and then
> > all of a sudden the two posts (along with a few others that aren't mine)
> > showed up at the same time. Was there a problem with Yahoo? I post on other
> > message groups and they generally come up within a number of minutes. Not
> > that I'm complaining, just an observation.
> >
> > _,___
> >
>

For some reason, my post didn't appear here until several days after I had
submitted it. The same thing happened with another post of mine, and then all of
a sudden the two posts (along with a few others that aren't mine) showed up at
the same time. Was there a problem with Yahoo? I post on other message groups
and they generally come up within a number of minutes. Not that I'm complaining,
just an observation.

Thanks for the update Paul. It sounds like a rudder, although it adds
complexity, may also add more than enough "controllability" to make up for the
added "stuff". But then, mastering the simpler rig would be quite an
accomplishment. You may want to take notes and record the loction of your mast
step and mast thwart, etc, for a given condition and note how it sails. One boat
builder on duckworks keeps a wind speed meter on his boat just to eliminate
guesswork. I would get confused pretty quickly and forget what affected what
after a few trips, especially if there were no actual bolt holes or other
feature to repeat the setup.

I've read in one of Michalak's articles that the position of the halyard on the
yard can have quite an effect on sail twist at various points of sail, which
makes quite an impact on ability to sail to windward, also.

Keep trying things and let us know how it goes. I find it very interesting for
myself.

-Jerry

--- In sailing_canoes@yahoogroups.com, Paul Helbert <paul.helbert@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jerry,
>
> I somehow missed seeing your question of last week. It takes some getting
> used to. I have now had the rig out three or four times and am impressed by
> how touchy it is to balance for and aft. Touchy but not quick to turn. There
> is a definite wait from the moment of weight shift until the boat begins to
> turn. When reaching it only takes a slight shift to heel the boat slightly
> causing it to initiate a turn. Likewise, if I move as far forward as I can
> and rake the leeboard toward the vertical (forward) the boat goes to
> windward almost as well as if it had a rudder, but the opposite is not true
> if I shift my weight aft and rake the leeboard back. I think that if I move
> the mast step forward and the whole rig forward as well, I may get it
> balanced so that I can go to leeward without having to use the paddle to
> maintain course.
>
> It is also quite sensitive to sheet angle. I got some exhilarating
> acceleration several times today; but the boat never seemed unstable or in
> danger of a capsize. With the excessive weather helm I have right now the
> boat is much easier to jibe than to tack.
>
> I was only out for an hour this afternoon. Temperature was around forty
> degrees Fahrenheit and winds were about ten to fifteen miles per hour with
> gusts to maybe 25. Weather service was calling for 18.
>
>  My usual boat is an eight foot scow (a Puddle Duck Racer) with a choice of
> 60, 75 or 90 square foot sails. In the PDR with the 90 ft sail I'd have been
> hiking out on a reach but in the canoe with the small sail I only had to
> lean my upper body out to maintain a level hull.
>
> On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 1:28 PM, Jerry C <churchj@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > So, how does it sail?
> >
> > -Jerry
> >
>

Paul,
Great slide show.
You do good work and the pictures show it well.
Thanks,
johninbastrop

--- In sailing_canoes@yahoogroups.com, Paul Helbert <paul.helbert@...> wrote:
>
> Jerry,
>
> I have been intrigued by the idea of sailing a canoe for years. Finally
> about a year ago I began to assemble a notebook of ideas from books,
> articles and around the web. I also bought Michael Storer's plans from
> Duckworks after using his excellent plans to build the OZ Puddle Duck Racer.
> The drop-in-canoe rig plans are a much earlier and less refined work, but
> still were very useful.
>
> What I now sail is very much from the Michael Storer ideas. The sail and
> spars follow his plans exactly, as does the idea of having the leeboard
> support and the mast partner share the same thwart. Steering without rudder,
> by weight shift, leeboard rake shift and sheeting is also more from his
> plans than from anywhere else. The clamp-on thwart which supports the mast
> and leeboard balances with the little balanced lug sail and the gust
> response of the tapered spars such that the boat feels very stable in light
> (Force 2) winds. How you make and fit the clamps and leeboard attachment
> probably shows more influence from other designs. Steering takes getting
> used to... you make a shift and then wait for the boat to respond. I have
> been learning a lot about sailing from the feel of this rig. I concider it a
> good starting point. My sixteen foot Esquif Presage really scoots with the
> little sail.
>
> I posted a few photos of the assembly as well as the boat in its finished
> form here on this forum:
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailing_canoes/photos/album/425436409/pic/list?mod\
e=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
>
> This afternoon I'm taking her out in gusty Force 4 - 5 conditions. I'll let
> you know how she behaves.
>
> >
> >> Has anyone tried Michael Storer's "Drop-In Sail Rig"? The sail is only
> >> 17.6 sq-ft, but for a canoe sailing beginner this may be a nice size.
Storer
> >> claims it can pusa a canoe to windward. Drop-in rig plans from Duckworks:
> >>
> >> http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/storer/sail/index.htm
> >>
> >> --
> Paul Helbert
>
> Father of "The Canoe Guru" http://thecanoeguru.com/
>

So, how does it sail?

-Jerry

--- In sailing_canoes@yahoogroups.com, Paul Helbert <paul.helbert@...> wrote:
>
> Finally got her to sea trials. I was planning on going to Lake Arrowhead,
> thirty minutes from home, but the wind forecast died, so I drove two hours
> up to Mount Storm, WV, where there is always wind. This design uses no
> rudder. Steering is by weight shift or by varying the sheeting or the rake
> of the leeboard (or by breaking out the paddle). The design is very simple
> and it goes well.
>
> There are a number of small details in which I diverged from the plans. I
> mounted the fulcrum for the leeboard below the gunwale instead of above it.
> I did not elect to mount any padeyes aft of my position, rather electing to
> hold the sheet line directly in hand.
>
> On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 7:40 PM, Paul Helbert <paul.helbert@...>wrote:
>
> > Tomorrow is launch day for my new Michael Storer Drop-In Canoe Sailing Rig:
> > http://www.storerboatplans.com/Canoebits/KayakRig.html
> >
> > I made it to fit the Esquif Presage. Everything is adjustable so it should
> > fit most recreational canoes. I'll be messing about with rig placement and
> > mast rake. Four or five mph winds are forecast so maybe I won't get blown
> > over getting the feel of it. The sail is quite small.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --
> > Paul Helbert
> >
> > Father of "The Canoe Guru" http://thecanoeguru.com/
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Paul Helbert
>
> Father of "The Canoe Guru" http://thecanoeguru.com/
>

I'd go 1 x 3/8 or 1 x 7/16. What were you thinking?
Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

-----Original Message-----
From: "pinkernator" <rfrank@...>
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 23:21:00
To: <sailing_canoes@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [sailing_canoes] Strip size? for strip-planking.

Well, Ive committed finally on a design.  Im scaling up Gary's T2 by 125% which
takes it to about 22 ft long.

Ive done the scaling proportionally so width, lentgh and height(depth) are all
increasing by 125%.  Does that sound appropriate?  It will be a shunter and will
figure that out later.  So, Ive already scaled up all lofts and wondering what
is the size of the strips I should be using for strip-planking?  I will probably
due to budget, cutting them out myself out of larger lumber so what would be
appropriate dims for these little guys?

Thanks!

Reese



------------------------------------


Additional Photos:
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