rootsradicals : Messages : 14579-14610 of 14680

A heavy duty Dutch rack on a normal bike (they are generally much sturdier build)

Or you can try to emulate something like the Workcyles FR8 (250Kg) -�http://www.workcycles.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=31&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

On 22 January 2013 22:11, kiltie_celt <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:

�

I don't know about DIY links for building one, but it sounds like you're talking about something similar to the Yuba Boda Boda

http://yubaride.com/bodaboda

It has some of the same cargo carrying capacity of their Mundo but a bit less weight apparently, and I've read some review that say the deck is a bit too high so it makes loads on the deck feel a bit unstable. You might start there if you're trying to brain storm ideas. I'd mention, from my own experience, even on a full-size longtail like the Xtracycle, carrying adult passengers is tricky. The frame extension is way too flexy to carry a heavy-ish full size adult. And by heavy-ish I mean 200lb, which really isn't all that heavy. One-piece frames like the Big Dummy or the various Xtracycle versions like the Radish or Edgerunner or similar offerings from either Trek, Yuba, or Salsa might be more rigid and thus support adults better.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "diy141" wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Anybody have links or references to building your own Half Xtracycle.
> An xtracycle on a regular bike, with no wheel extension? Still strong enough to support a person sitting in the back, but less of a footprint.
> Saw some pictures somewhere of one... Thanks!
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (5)

#14580

From: "jtrops" <jtrops@...>
Date: Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:16 pm
Subject: Re: Half-cycle

jtrops

I may not understand exactly what you are trying to do, so forgive me if this is
off base. There may be a reason the project you saw os difficult to find.  Your
description reminds me of the Trek/Fisher which got some mixed reviews due to
the amount of rack extending past the rear wheel.  Once loaded it makes the
front end very light and the whole bike becomes skittish.  Add to that the
whippy frame flex and it doesn't sound so good. I haven't ridden one, but I have
looked at them.  I could see what people were talking about.

   The boda has a high rack (allows for an under deck battery+fender clearance);
however, the frame is remarkably stiff. The deck is also quite a bit shorter
than the one on my Dummy. My wife regularly carries our two kids with panniers
full and it's not squirly.

If I was going to build up a standard frame to carry big loads I would start
with an old school MTB that has really long stays(by current standards), and
keep the cargo over or ahead of the rear axle if possible.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "diy141"  wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Anybody have links or references to building your own Half Xtracycle.
> An xtracycle on a regular bike, with no wheel extension? Still strong enough
to support a person sitting in the back, but less of a footprint.
> Saw some pictures somewhere of one...  Thanks!
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (5)

#14581

From: Don Thompson <donthompsonjr@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:38 am
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

donjuanor

I've had that same issue with the long bolt, FAP moving.� I adjust VERY tight, but it still rotates counter clockwise after a week of riding.� It never loosens, but just moves.� Did you fix this problem on yours?

#14582

From: alan wade <wade714@...>
Date: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:45 pm
Subject: hi

wade714

this reminded me of you http://bit.ly/WvXNrT

alan

#14583

From: Nathan Klatt <n8klatt@...>
Date: Mon Jan 28, 2013 4:46 pm
Subject: Re: hi

n8klatt

For future reference, good netizens, a quick email to support@... is proven worth the effort.

Also, in case you didn't already know, if you add a + to the end of a bitly link, you can see the real URL and some other info on the link, e.g., https://bitly.com/WvXNrT+

I anticipate that graph will take a sharp downward turn presently.

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Ben <support@...> wrote:

Thanks for reaching out! We take spam seriously at bitly and appreciate your report. We've blocked this link in our system.

All the best!
-Ben

@bitly

Helpful? Click to give Ben thanks!

On Jan 28, 2013 at 3:54 p.m. Nathan Klatt <n8klatt@...> wrote:

Spam link.

Received on a mailing list I belong to; links to a fake MSNBC article.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: alan wade <wade714@...>
Date: Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:45 AM
Subject: [rootsradicals] hi
To: rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com
**

this reminded me of you http://bit.ly/WvXNrT

alan

#14584

From: Pete B <nackterman@...>
Date: Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:37 am
Subject: Re: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

hijustmepete

For the FAP rotation, I stuck a thicker piece of scrap nylon carpet to the plate.�

That and a nylock with spring washer seemed to stop the problem.

'The only purpose for which power can be rightfully exercised over any member of a civilised community against his will, is to prevent harm to others. He cannot rightfully be compelled for his own good, or because, in the opinion of others, it would be wise, or even right. These are good reasons for persuading him, but not for compelling him.' : John Stuart Mill

On 27 January 2013 14:38, Don Thompson <donthompsonjr@...> wrote:

�

I've had that same issue with the long bolt, FAP moving.� I adjust VERY tight, but it still rotates counter clockwise after a week of riding.� It never loosens, but just moves.� Did you fix this problem on yours?

#14586

From: dr2chase@...
Date: Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:09 am
Subject: Re: (unknown)

dr2chase

I see that you have some real live posts from some years back, so I think one of
your email accounts has been hacked in some way.  You might want to look into
that.

David

On 2013-01-30, at 8:21 PM, Elizabeth Whiting <cheez.sammich@...> wrote:

>
> hi!

#14588

From: "Rich W" <astronut1001@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 12:39 am
Subject: Re: dangerous link

astronut1001

When reporting a bad link such as this presumed spambot please DO NOT REPEAT THE
OFFENDING LINK AS THIS JUST MAKES DELETING AN ADDITIONAL EMAIL NECESSARY.

Rich Wood
Moderator

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "rlwieneke"  wrote:
>
> this link is identified by Avast Antivirus as an infected html.
>
> --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Elizabeth Whiting  wrote:
> >
> > hi!
  >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Elizabeth Whiting
> >
>

#14589

From: Di Y <diy141@...>
Date: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:36 pm
Subject: Half-cycle

diy141

Interesting info...

Looking for simple diy instructions.

Seems like for a carrying rear rack, just need to find a way to attach a rear rack to the seat post AND to the axle, like the Flying Pigeon. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flying_Pigeon

Bike forum says it's the rack that needs to be strong.

Looks like they carry a lot of loads in Vietnam, that battery must be pretty heavy to power the fryer. http://www.flickr.com/photos/hecookssheeats/1843934949/

A heavy duty Dutch rack on a normal bike (they are generally much sturdier build)

Or you can try to emulate something like the Workcyles FR8 (250Kg) - http://www.workcycles.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=31&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Anybody have links or references to building your own Half Xtracycle.
An xtracycle on a regular bike, with no wheel extension? Still strong enough to support a person sitting in the back, but less of a footprint. Saw some pictures somewhere of one... Thanks!

Reply | Messages in this Topic (5)

#14590

From: "cmears1963" <mears@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 12:58 am
Subject: Selling my trusty steed -- SF Bay Area

cmears1963

Hi

I am selling my old xtracycle -- Cheap.  The conversion is about 6 years old.
Frame is 19" steel trek.  2.0 Big apples, front disc.  Price is 250, but mention
this post, and I'll come down to 200.  The Xtracycle is pretty old, so you'll
need
a few extra parts to replace the bags.

I am not leaving the xtracycle family -- I'm still sharing a different one with
my wife.
This one is not getting enough use, and needs to go to a more loving home.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/3585415421.html

Thank

-Carl

#14591

From: Morgan Scherer <morganverbena@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 6:20 am
Subject: Re: Selling my trusty steed -- SF Bay Area

morganelene

Wow, I would buy it in a heartbeat if I didn't live in Seattle! What an amazing deal!
Morgan

cmears1963 <mears@...> wrote:

Hi

I am selling my old xtracycle -- Cheap. The conversion is about 6 years old.
Frame is 19" steel trek. 2.0 Big apples, front disc. Price is 250, but mention
this post, and I'll come down to 200. The Xtracycle is pretty old, so you'll need
a few extra parts to replace the bags.

I am not leaving the xtracycle family -- I'm still sharing a different one with my wife.
This one is not getting enough use, and needs to go to a more loving home.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/3585415421.html

Thank

-Carl

--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

#14592

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 5:38 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

The evolution of this project was largely based on access issues to my bike
shop/workspace area, which is through two doors perpendicular to each other,
each 3'-0" wide... hard to thread oblong objects through this passageway. My
initial calculations suggested that a fixed-frame design like a Yuba or similar
would be too wide at the rear to accommodate this navigation, thanks to the
built in steps in the frame. I REALLY wanted to do a bikefiet type project, but
thats for another time and another home. Anyway, that's how I landed on the
Xtracycle. I started with it, considered others, returned to it.

Good to hear I'm not the only one with a loose 'special nut'. I'm kicking myself
for not checking them before. Being under the freeloaders it was out of sight
out of mind, which is really no excuse for a 30+ year experience rider who's
built 11 bikes or so. Ridiculous. I blame sleep deprivation from the second
child...

Thanks Brian!

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Brian Livelsberger  wrote:
>
> I've had the special nuts come loose, now I check them regularly. Curious
> how others keep them tight.
>
> Squirrely? Absolutely! It took me a while to get used to it. I can handle
> it just fine now that I've adjusted, but I don't like it, and if I were
> doing it all over again a purpose-built single-piece frame (Yuba,
> EdgeRunner, BD) would be a must specifically for this reason. I have no
> regrets, as I enjoy the flexibility (no pun intended!) the custom build
> afforded, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone without that same
> fascination.
>
> Regards,
> Brian.

#14593

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 5:40 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

Thanks Kiltie
I can't believe I didn't loctite those. I did so on the FAP bolt, though I used
a custom FAP assembly so that whole thing is more robust. Actually, given the
fail at the rear of the bike, that SuperFAP did it's job!!!

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "kiltie_celt"  wrote:
>
> I use Locktite on all of the bolts when I assemble any bike. That being said,
I'll be keeping an eye on these nuts and bolts on my own Xtracycle seeing as how
it's one of the critical points on the whole unit. It's a great platform for
converting an unused mtb into a useful cargo bike, but it does have it's
limitations. The whole thing is a bit on the flexy side, so any of the solid
frame alternatives around bound to be stiffer.
>
> --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "thirdraildesignlab"  wrote:
> >
> > Hey gang
> > Two basic questions for Free Radical users that have ridden their builds for
a long period of time... my build was completed last year but has about 75 miles
on it total, so it's young overall.
> >
> > 1. Have you ever had your 'special nuts' loosen on their own? I admit that
checking these nuts was not on my regular pre-ride checklist as it should have
been, but I noted yesterday that one side had loosened and allowed the left side
of the FR to lift up and out of the drops (given substantial high center of
gravity weight loading at the time) rendering the bike not only unridable, but
pretty much uncontrollable. No injury to me or my lil' passengers. But I was
surprised that there was loosening of these bolts, given their critical
importance, and even more so that it happened on one side of a largely
symmetrical assembly (excepting of course the force of the drivetrain on the
opposing side)
> >
> > 2. When properly assembled (as mine was before it wasn't) for those of you
that carry kids, I'm curious about your experiences with a squirrely ride. I
have two peapod III's, transporting  24lb and 35lb children, frequently with
little to nothing in the saddlebags. I find that starts and stops can be VERY
unstable at the front end, with a good amount of handlebar wobble until I can
get going. I believe this is mitigated somewhat by leading the Freeloaders with
weight to lower the overall center of gravity of the back of the bike. My choice
of wheel size may also play a role. I'm curious if others experience this.
> >
> > Overall the build has gone very well and I've used the bike for a number of
cargo hauls as well as the family commuting. As I'm the only person I know
personally with an Xtracycle, I'm looking for a basis for comparison.
> >
> > Cheers
> > thom
> >
>

#14594

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 5:59 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

Yes, this build is large, and I know that contributes to it. Absolutely. I was
curious as to how squirrely normal 26" builds felt for folks, just as a basis
for comparison. Subjectively, anyway...
thanks Kiltie

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "kiltie_celt"  wrote:
>
> Oh, almost forgot - you mentioned something about wheel size? Are you using
700c wheels instead of a build based off of a more traditional 26" wheel size?
The 700c wheels, if that's the case with your build, might make things a bit
more flexy.
>
>

#14595

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 6:03 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

MJ, I'm right there with ya. Or will be, in some years time.
I have a Burley trailer, though I've never attached it to the Xtracycle. I have
a Piccolo, but my eldest is still not yet 4, so we're a ways off. I do find that
if I weight down the Freeloaders with copious quantities of sundries, lowering
the center of gravity helps a lot.
The instability is really felt at the bars. The steerer becoming a pivot point.
Well, BEING a pivot point, but becoming the hardest to manhandle into staying
stable at slow speeds and stops. I actually originally put some touring bars
with some sweep back to make the overall dimension of the bike narrower (my
aforementioned bike access issue) but switched back to long straight bars to
give myself a wider triangle.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "MJ"  wrote:
>
> Hey Thom,
>
> The X has been a wonderful addition to our family for 9 years now, and I can
share a couple of tips about hauling kids. My boys are now 8 and 5, and their
combined weight had me huffing and puffing as I biked them 6 miles to school
each morning last fall. On the plus side, I turned in a great time in a century
ride I did in early October. Thanks kids!
>
> Given the high center of gravity and the likelihood that the guys will be even
heavier this spring, I've become concerned about the possibility of low speed
crashes. It's when we're stopping and starting that the X is most unstable, as
you seem to be experiencing as well.
>
> This spring, I plan to get a Burley Piccolo, attach it to the X and ask the
heaviest kid to pedal along with me. In addition to lowering the center of
gravity, I should get a small boost from his workout. The Piccolo attaches to
the X with enough room to spare for the smaller guy. It's a solution that just
came to me recently, so I thought I'd share it.
>
> The problem with high center of gravity/kid hauling must be fairly widespread:
the new X's have small wheels in the back to lower the center of gravity plus
rollbars for rear seat passengers. Nice additions, but we plan to get a few more
years out of our original X before moving on to another.
>
> Good luck!
>
>

#14596

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 6:04 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

Ha, my FAP bolt was rock solid! But it's been customized considerably, or
rather, the FAP itself.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Pete B  wrote:
>
> Never had a problem with the "special nuts" loosening. I did convert them
> over to quick release skewers (from spare seatpost clamps) early on though.
>
> Did have a problem with the long bolt through the front tonque/FAP moving
> but that's another story...
>
>
> On 23 January 2013 11:15, thirdraildesignlab wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > 1. Have you ever had your 'special nuts' loosen on their own? I admit that
> > checking these nuts was not on my regular pre-ride checklist as it should
> > have been, but I noted yesterday that one side had loosened and allowed the
> > left side of the FR to lift up and out of the drops (given substantial high
> > center of gravity weight loading at the time) rendering the bike not only
> > unridable, but pretty much uncontrollable. No injury to me or my lil'
> > passengers. But I was surprised that there was loosening of these bolts,
> > given their critical importance, and even more so that it happened on one
> > side of a largely symmetrical assembly (excepting of course the force of
> > the drivetrain on the opposing side)
>
>
>
>
> 'The only purpose for which power can be rightfully exercised over any
> member of a civilised community against his will, is to prevent harm to
> others. He cannot rightfully be compelled for his own good, or because, in
> the opinion of others, it would be wise, or even right. These are good
> reasons for persuading him, but not for compelling him.' : John Stuart Mill
>

#14597

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 6:05 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

Mine is a custom trapezoidal section of thick block aluminum top and bottom with
more retaining bolts across its surface. Great investment! But in my case, due
to the frame size, it was necessary.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Pete B  wrote:
>
> For the FAP rotation, I stuck a thicker piece of scrap nylon carpet to the
> plate.
> That and a nylock with spring washer seemed to stop the problem.
>
> 'The only purpose for which power can be rightfully exercised over any
> member of a civilised community against his will, is to prevent harm to
> others. He cannot rightfully be compelled for his own good, or because, in
> the opinion of others, it would be wise, or even right. These are good
> reasons for persuading him, but not for compelling him.' : John Stuart Mill
>
>
> On 27 January 2013 14:38, Don Thompson  wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > I've had that same issue with the long bolt, FAP moving.  I adjust VERY
> > tight, but it still rotates counter clockwise after a week of riding.  It
> > never loosens, but just moves.  Did you fix this problem on yours?
> >
> >
>

#14598

From: "thirdraildesignlab" <thom@...>
Date: Fri Feb 1, 2013 6:10 pm
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Build Issues

SO, I'm taking the bike into my LBS that helped with some of the final details
on this build and the customization, this saturday, so assuming the bike frame
hasn't deformed or cracked under the torsional stress, I should be back in
action next week. When it comes to my kids I want a professional to review such
things. It occurs to me that I never posted the build photos and notes from this
project, so I will do so after this is fixed. Overall it's been an awesome bike,
with compromises that were not unexpected.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "thirdraildesignlab"  wrote:
>
> Hey gang
> Two basic questions for Free Radical users that have ridden their builds for a
long period of time... my build was completed last year but has about 75 miles
on it total, so it's young overall.
>

#14599

From: Sean Mackin <gear.head@...>
Date: Sat Feb 2, 2013 8:51 am
Subject: Fenders

gear.head...

A while back I posted some pictures of my new lighting set up and fenders. I have been very happy with the whole set up. In the process of my purchasing fervor I ended up with 2 sets of the fenders. Initially I thought they might be good for another project, but realize they will probably just end up bouncing around my shop for extended future. If anybody is interested I would be willing to make a deal on them. I think they were about $30 originally. The model is SFR-TRBK and they are actually for 700c wheels but I found they gave the best clearance for a Dummy with Biggie tires on it (see pictures). Let me know if anybody is interested you can email me directly. By the way they are still new in original package with all the hardware.

Thanks,
Sean

1 of 1 Photo(s)

fender pix.png

#14600

From: "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:51 am
Subject: My Xtracycle build failure

kiltie_celt

Well, a lot of you probably read my blog post detailing how I constructed my
Xtracycle using my old '94 Stumpjumper as the donor bike. Well, I've ridden it
some and through a couple shakedown cruises decided to change some things
around. The most recent change was to swap out the riser bar/bar ends combo in
favor of a trekking bar to get more hand positions. I finally got all the parts
for the trekking bar conversion and started working on it this weekend.

Long story short - the old Stumpy frame is too small. The Stumpy frame which is
an 18" worked just fine as a mountain bike. I ran the bike with the stem way
lower than the seat and though I ran a lot of exposed seatpost the smaller frame
(I should take about a 20" normally), allowed me to have a stiffer more
maneuverable bike for tight singletrack mobility.

So, as I sat there this evening trying different bar positions, raising and
lower the stem, etc. I came to the realization that I prefer a more stretched
out riding position similar to my touring bike and that the more upright
position caused by the smaller frame (ie. shorter top tube), means I need to
invest in a new frame. I could trawl ebay and Craigslist until the cows come
home, but that would take a lot of time and looking before I found another
suitable frame in the right size and in good condition.

So, I decided I'd just buy the Nashbar aluminum mountain bike frame and their
corresponding suspension-corrected cro-moly fork.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_173009_-1___202388

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174928_-1___202347

Of course this all means I'll need a bunch of extra stuff like headset, seatpost
clamp, bottom bracket, lower rise stem, etc. but I think the extra expense will
be well worth it to end up with a better fitting frame that will be much more
comfortable for longer rides. The plus side is, the mountain bike I've been
wanting to build with a drop bar can be done with my old Stumpjumper, so I'll
still be keeping it around and I'm sure down the road it'll see use again once I
can build it back up. Of course, I'll be sure to blog the construction of the
new Xtracycle based on the larger aluminum mountain bike frame. And there will
undoubtedly be another booze-fueled shakedown cruise as well.

#14601

From: "Bruce Alan Wilson" <bruce_alan_wilson@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:23 pm
Subject: Re: My Xtracycle build failure

larryu81

Just get a big dummy, already!

Bruce Alan Wilson
http://wvdemolay.com
http://www.demolay.org

#14602

From: "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:41 pm
Subject: Re: My Xtracycle build failure

kiltie_celt

I checked the cushions in the couch, but I just don't seem to have $900 laying
around for a whole other frame. ;) Of course I did find enough change for a $140
frame and fork though.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Alan Wilson"
<bruce_alan_wilson@...> wrote:
>
> Just get a big dummy, already!
>
> Bruce Alan Wilson
> http://wvdemolay.com
> http://www.demolay.org
>

#14603

From: alan wade <wade714@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:26 pm
Subject: alan wade

wade714

http://manchesteradvertising.co.uk/arwgrer/v4kq5mxjv/207fxm=bdtsnc7je3kukchtxt67fyrdujilwo

Reply | Messages in this Topic (1)

#14604

From: Sean Mackin <gear.head@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:09 pm
Subject: Re: My Xtracycle build failure

gear.head...

I have always been curious about the Nashbar frames. I look forward to a ride report. The old Stumpy frame should be good ebay fodder to offset your outlay too. There are some nostalgic folks that love those old frames.

Sean

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 16, 2013, at 8:51 PM, "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:

Well, a lot of you probably read my blog post detailing how I constructed my Xtracycle using my old '94 Stumpjumper as the donor bike. Well, I've ridden it some and through a couple shakedown cruises decided to change some things around. The most recent change was to swap out the riser bar/bar ends combo in favor of a trekking bar to get more hand positions. I finally got all the parts for the trekking bar conversion and started working on it this weekend.

Long story short - the old Stumpy frame is too small. The Stumpy frame which is an 18" worked just fine as a mountain bike. I ran the bike with the stem way lower than the seat and though I ran a lot of exposed seatpost the smaller frame (I should take about a 20" normally), allowed me to have a stiffer more maneuverable bike for tight singletrack mobility.

So, as I sat there this evening trying different bar positions, raising and lower the stem, etc. I came to the realization that I prefer a more stretched out riding position similar to my touring bike and that the more upright position caused by the smaller frame (ie. shorter top tube), means I need to invest in a new frame. I could trawl ebay and Craigslist until the cows come home, but that would take a lot of time and looking before I found another suitable frame in the right size and in good condition.

So, I decided I'd just buy the Nashbar aluminum mountain bike frame and their corresponding suspension-corrected cro-moly fork.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_173009_-1___202388

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174928_-1___202347

Of course this all means I'll need a bunch of extra stuff like headset, seatpost clamp, bottom bracket, lower rise stem, etc. but I think the extra expense will be well worth it to end up with a better fitting frame that will be much more comfortable for longer rides. The plus side is, the mountain bike I've been wanting to build with a drop bar can be done with my old Stumpjumper, so I'll still be keeping it around and I'm sure down the road it'll see use again once I can build it back up. Of course, I'll be sure to blog the construction of the new Xtracycle based on the larger aluminum mountain bike frame. And there will undoubtedly be another booze-fueled shakedown cruise as well.

#14605

From: "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...>
Date: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:33 am
Subject: Re: My Xtracycle build failure

kiltie_celt

Well, I was looking at the specs on that Nashbar frame along with reading the
reviews, when I realized that according to all the information I'd gathered, the
Nashbar mountain bike frame is no larger at 20" than my Stumpjumper frame is at
its 18" size. So, it was back to the drawing board.

In discussing this with a friend, he proposed the idea of getting a Surly LHT
frame that takes 26" wheels and using that. He works at a bike shop and thought
he might be able to get me the frame at cost, but I found out from him earlier
today, "no dice" on that. Of course a LHT frame would solve a lot of my issues
with geometry, giving me a riding position very similar to my daily commuter
bike which is also a touring bike, albeit a 700c.

I'm ruling out the idea of a 700c Xtracycle primarily because you can't get
larger tires on the back wheel, let alone a fender and also a 700c wheel is not
going to be as strong as a 26" wheel. I thought briefly about maybe using the
same 700c Nashbar touring frame that is the basis of my daily commuter and
running a 26" wheel in the back with the 700c wheel up front, but I can't
imagine how that would affect the geometry.

Of course, now that I'm thinking about the LHT I can't imagine that I wouldn't
be somewhat disappointed with a lower quality mtb frame. Of course the higher
quality mtb frames end up being as expensive as an LHT frame anyway, and there's
bound to still be some issues with me not getting quite the riding position I'd
be most comfortable in. So, at this point I'm stuck trying to figure out if I
want to spend the full $470 for a LHT frame, or try to find something else
suitable.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean Mackin <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
> I have always been curious about the Nashbar frames. I look forward to a ride
report. The old Stumpy frame should be good ebay fodder to offset your outlay
too. There are some nostalgic folks that love those old frames.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 16, 2013, at 8:51 PM, "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:
>
> > Well, a lot of you probably read my blog post detailing how I constructed my
Xtracycle using my old '94 Stumpjumper as the donor bike. Well, I've ridden it
some and through a couple shakedown cruises decided to change some things
around. The most recent change was to swap out the riser bar/bar ends combo in
favor of a trekking bar to get more hand positions. I finally got all the parts
for the trekking bar conversion and started working on it this weekend.
> >
> > Long story short - the old Stumpy frame is too small. The Stumpy frame which
is an 18" worked just fine as a mountain bike. I ran the bike with the stem way
lower than the seat and though I ran a lot of exposed seatpost the smaller frame
(I should take about a 20" normally), allowed me to have a stiffer more
maneuverable bike for tight singletrack mobility.
> >
> > So, as I sat there this evening trying different bar positions, raising and
lower the stem, etc. I came to the realization that I prefer a more stretched
out riding position similar to my touring bike and that the more upright
position caused by the smaller frame (ie. shorter top tube), means I need to
invest in a new frame. I could trawl ebay and Craigslist until the cows come
home, but that would take a lot of time and looking before I found another
suitable frame in the right size and in good condition.
> >
> > So, I decided I'd just buy the Nashbar aluminum mountain bike frame and
their corresponding suspension-corrected cro-moly fork.
> >
> > http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_173009_-1___202388
> >
> > http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174928_-1___202347
> >
> > Of course this all means I'll need a bunch of extra stuff like headset,
seatpost clamp, bottom bracket, lower rise stem, etc. but I think the extra
expense will be well worth it to end up with a better fitting frame that will be
much more comfortable for longer rides. The plus side is, the mountain bike I've
been wanting to build with a drop bar can be done with my old Stumpjumper, so
I'll still be keeping it around and I'm sure down the road it'll see use again
once I can build it back up. Of course, I'll be sure to blog the construction of
the new Xtracycle based on the larger aluminum mountain bike frame. And there
will undoubtedly be another booze-fueled shakedown cruise as well.
> >
> >
>

#14606

From: Thom Chiaramonte <thom@...>
Date: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:43 am
Subject: Re: Re: My Xtracycle build failure

I haven't posted much about my conversion, other than to ask about certain issues I needed to resolve, but I ride a custom 29er conversion and while each build has strengths and weaknesses, a tall rider such as yourself should seriously consider the size. It would probably be great for you. Unfortunately, when price is an issue as well, it can be somewhat prohibitive, as there are several adjustments to be made, such as new rotor mount location, beefed up rotors, and in my case, a custom FAP. But still: big

On Feb 19, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:

Well, I was looking at the specs on that Nashbar frame along with reading the reviews, when I realized that according to all the information I'd gathered, the Nashbar mountain bike frame is no larger at 20" than my Stumpjumper frame is at its 18" size. So, it was back to the drawing board.

In discussing this with a friend, he proposed the idea of getting a Surly LHT frame that takes 26" wheels and using that. He works at a bike shop and thought he might be able to get me the frame at cost, but I found out from him earlier today, "no dice" on that. Of course a LHT frame would solve a lot of my issues with geometry, giving me a riding position very similar to my daily commuter bike which is also a touring bike, albeit a 700c.

I'm ruling out the idea of a 700c Xtracycle primarily because you can't get larger tires on the back wheel, let alone a fender and also a 700c wheel is not going to be as strong as a 26" wheel. I thought briefly about maybe using the same 700c Nashbar touring frame that is the basis of my daily commuter and running a 26" wheel in the back with the 700c wheel up front, but I can't imagine how that would affect the geometry.

Of course, now that I'm thinking about the LHT I can't imagine that I wouldn't be somewhat disappointed with a lower quality mtb frame. Of course the higher quality mtb frames end up being as expensive as an LHT frame anyway, and there's bound to still be some issues with me not getting quite the riding position I'd be most comfortable in. So, at this point I'm stuck trying to figure out if I want to spend the full $470 for a LHT frame, or try to find something else suitable.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean Mackin wrote:
>
> I have always been curious about the Nashbar frames. I look forward to a ride report. The old Stumpy frame should be good ebay fodder to offset your outlay too. There are some nostalgic folks that love those old frames.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 16, 2013, at 8:51 PM, "kiltie_celt" wrote:
>
> > Well, a lot of you probably read my blog post detailing how I constructed my Xtracycle using my old '94 Stumpjumper as the donor bike. Well, I've ridden it some and through a couple shakedown cruises decided to change some things around. The most recent change was to swap out the riser bar/bar ends combo in favor of a trekking bar to get more hand positions. I finally got all the parts for the trekking bar conversion and started working on it this weekend.
> >
> > Long story short - the old Stumpy frame is too small. The Stumpy frame which is an 18" worked just fine as a mountain bike. I ran the bike with the stem way lower than the seat and though I ran a lot of exposed seatpost the smaller frame (I should take about a 20" normally), allowed me to have a stiffer more maneuverable bike for tight singletrack mobility.
> >
> > So, as I sat there this evening trying different bar positions, raising and lower the stem, etc. I came to the realization that I prefer a more stretched out riding position similar to my touring bike and that the more upright position caused by the smaller frame (ie. shorter top tube), means I need to invest in a new frame. I could trawl ebay and Craigslist until the cows come home, but that would take a lot of time and looking before I found another suitable frame in the right size and in good condition.
> >
> > So, I decided I'd just buy the Nashbar aluminum mountain bike frame and their corresponding suspension-corrected cro-moly fork.
> >
> > http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_173009_-1___202388
> >
> > http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174928_-1___202347
> >
> > Of course this all means I'll need a bunch of extra stuff like headset, seatpost clamp, bottom bracket, lower rise stem, etc. but I think the extra expense will be well worth it to end up with a better fitting frame that will be much more comfortable for longer rides. The plus side is, the mountain bike I've been wanting to build with a drop bar can be done with my old Stumpjumper, so I'll still be keeping it around and I'm sure down the road it'll see use again once I can build it back up. Of course, I'll be sure to blog the construction of the new Xtracycle based on the larger aluminum mountain bike frame. And there will undoubtedly be another booze-fueled shakedown cruise as well.
> >
> >
>

#14607

From: Sean Mackin <gear.head@...>
Date: Wed Feb 20, 2013 5:39 pm
Subject: Re: Re: My Xtracycle build failure

gear.head...

I have had a lot of good luck with Craigslist, pawn shops and thrift stores. You can let someone else take the new bike depreciation. On most given weeks here in SoCal there is usually a few Surly frames on Craigslist. With a little patience you should be able to score something that will work. Two of the local bike shops near here take trade in's too. You am want to ask what is in the back (demo's and scratch and dents lurk there too). Keep us updated, we love build reports (or at least I do).

Sean

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 19, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:

Well, I was looking at the specs on that Nashbar frame along with reading the reviews, when I realized that according to all the information I'd gathered, the Nashbar mountain bike frame is no larger at 20" than my Stumpjumper frame is at its 18" size. So, it was back to the drawing board.

In discussing this with a friend, he proposed the idea of getting a Surly LHT frame that takes 26" wheels and using that. He works at a bike shop and thought he might be able to get me the frame at cost, but I found out from him earlier today, "no dice" on that. Of course a LHT frame would solve a lot of my issues with geometry, giving me a riding position very similar to my daily commuter bike which is also a touring bike, albeit a 700c.

I'm ruling out the idea of a 700c Xtracycle primarily because you can't get larger tires on the back wheel, let alone a fender and also a 700c wheel is not going to be as strong as a 26" wheel. I thought briefly about maybe using the same 700c Nashbar touring frame that is the basis of my daily commuter and running a 26" wheel in the back with the 700c wheel up front, but I can't imagine how that would affect the geometry.

Of course, now that I'm thinking about the LHT I can't imagine that I wouldn't be somewhat disappointed with a lower quality mtb frame. Of course the higher quality mtb frames end up being as expensive as an LHT frame anyway, and there's bound to still be some issues with me not getting quite the riding position I'd be most comfortable in. So, at this point I'm stuck trying to figure out if I want to spend the full $470 for a LHT frame, or try to find something else suitable.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean Mackin wrote:
>
> I have always been curious about the Nashbar frames. I look forward to a ride report. The old Stumpy frame should be good ebay fodder to offset your outlay too. There are some nostalgic folks that love those old frames.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 16, 2013, at 8:51 PM, "kiltie_celt" wrote:
>
> > Well, a lot of you probably read my blog post detailing how I constructed my Xtracycle using my old '94 Stumpjumper as the donor bike. Well, I've ridden it some and through a couple shakedown cruises decided to change some things around. The most recent change was to swap out the riser bar/bar ends combo in favor of a trekking bar to get more hand positions. I finally got all the parts for the trekking bar conversion and started working on it this weekend.
> >
> > Long story short - the old Stumpy frame is too small. The Stumpy frame which is an 18" worked just fine as a mountain bike. I ran the bike with the stem way lower than the seat and though I ran a lot of exposed seatpost the smaller frame (I should take about a 20" normally), allowed me to have a stiffer more maneuverable bike for tight singletrack mobility.
> >
> > So, as I sat there this evening trying different bar positions, raising and lower the stem, etc. I came to the realization that I prefer a more stretched out riding position similar to my touring bike and that the more upright position caused by the smaller frame (ie. shorter top tube), means I need to invest in a new frame. I could trawl ebay and Craigslist until the cows come home, but that would take a lot of time and looking before I found another suitable frame in the right size and in good condition.
> >
> > So, I decided I'd just buy the Nashbar aluminum mountain bike frame and their corresponding suspension-corrected cro-moly fork.
> >
> > http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_173009_-1___202388
> >
> > http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174928_-1___202347
> >
> > Of course this all means I'll need a bunch of extra stuff like headset, seatpost clamp, bottom bracket, lower rise stem, etc. but I think the extra expense will be well worth it to end up with a better fitting frame that will be much more comfortable for longer rides. The plus side is, the mountain bike I've been wanting to build with a drop bar can be done with my old Stumpjumper, so I'll still be keeping it around and I'm sure down the road it'll see use again once I can build it back up. Of course, I'll be sure to blog the construction of the new Xtracycle based on the larger aluminum mountain bike frame. And there will undoubtedly be another booze-fueled shakedown cruise as well.
> >
> >
>

#14608

From: "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 3:53 pm
Subject: Xtracycle build failure part 2

kiltie_celt

Okay, so the search for a larger frame continues. One stumbling block is trying
to keep the price of the frame to something reasonable. Reasonable being less
than $200 I hope. There was a possibility of getting a Long Haul Trucker frame
at cost, which is roughly about $280. I could still stomach that because the LHT
frame is really nice, however that deal possibility fell through and is likely
off the table at this point.

One of the things I began debating though, was going with another cro-moly steel
frame like my Stumpjumper or going with an aluminum frame. I've been reading
that a lot of folks like an aluminum frame to go with the FreeRadical because
the stiffness of the aluminum helps combat some of the inherent flexiness of
bolt on design of the attachment.

The problem I'm running into, looking at all the aluminum frames available is
that most of them are designed around front suspension, whether they come with a
fork or not. I can buy a suspension-corrected fork but that just seems to mean
the frame is going to have a weird, jacked-up front end. I'm sure it doesn't
affect the handling any, but has anyone felt that a suspension-corrected
fork/frame combo handles weirdly with as an Xtracycle?

Another idea was building up the Xtracycle around the same 700c touring frame
that my daily commuter bike is built on. I could still run a 26" rear tire which
would help with weight capacity. However, the front fork would potentially limit
the front tire (with fender), to no more than possibly 700x40, maybe, MAYBE
700x45, but I doubt that large size (equivalent to 28x1.75), would fit within
the fork.

Of course that sort of Edgerunner layout might work, in theory but the front end
would be jacked up a couple inches over the back and I don't know if that makes
a difference, especially when the wheelbase is so long. Also, I wonder if the
700c up front would compromise low speed handling with a heavy load. I'm not too
enamored of that idea as a whole. Just seems to have too many potential issues.

So, any thoughts from you folks regarding steel versus aluminum, 26 versus 700c,
suspension-corrected versus frames designed to be totally rigid (ie. older 90s
mtbs or something like a LHT)?

#14609

From: Brian Livelsberger <livelsbe@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 4:16 pm
Subject: Re: Xtracycle build failure part 2

livelsbe

I have a suspension fork (Giant Boulder XT frame w stock fork), and like it, have had no problems at all. So far 1 yr of riding as an xtracycle conversion (just over 1000 mi) in varied conditions, half of it under an approx 100lb load of kids and school gear. Lots of flex in the add-on frame under these conditions, very happy that the donor frame itself is stiff.

Brian, DCish

On Feb 21, 2013 10:53 AM, "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:

�

Okay, so the search for a larger frame continues. One stumbling block is trying to keep the price of the frame to something reasonable. Reasonable being less than $200 I hope. There was a possibility of getting a Long Haul Trucker frame at cost, which is roughly about $280. I could still stomach that because the LHT frame is really nice, however that deal possibility fell through and is likely off the table at this point.

One of the things I began debating though, was going with another cro-moly steel frame like my Stumpjumper or going with an aluminum frame. I've been reading that a lot of folks like an aluminum frame to go with the FreeRadical because the stiffness of the aluminum helps combat some of the inherent flexiness of bolt on design of the attachment.

The problem I'm running into, looking at all the aluminum frames available is that most of them are designed around front suspension, whether they come with a fork or not. I can buy a suspension-corrected fork but that just seems to mean the frame is going to have a weird, jacked-up front end. I'm sure it doesn't affect the handling any, but has anyone felt that a suspension-corrected fork/frame combo handles weirdly with as an Xtracycle?

Another idea was building up the Xtracycle around the same 700c touring frame that my daily commuter bike is built on. I could still run a 26" rear tire which would help with weight capacity. However, the front fork would potentially limit the front tire (with fender), to no more than possibly 700x40, maybe, MAYBE 700x45, but I doubt that large size (equivalent to 28x1.75), would fit within the fork.

Of course that sort of Edgerunner layout might work, in theory but the front end would be jacked up a couple inches over the back and I don't know if that makes a difference, especially when the wheelbase is so long. Also, I wonder if the 700c up front would compromise low speed handling with a heavy load. I'm not too enamored of that idea as a whole. Just seems to have too many potential issues.

So, any thoughts from you folks regarding steel versus aluminum, 26 versus 700c, suspension-corrected versus frames designed to be totally rigid (ie. older 90s mtbs or something like a LHT)?

#14610

From: Thom Chiaramonte <thom@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: Xtracycle build failure part 2

definitely appreciate the aluminum. Also, I keep the suspension fork locked out and it's really fine.

On Feb 21, 2013, at 8:16 AM, Brian Livelsberger <livelsbe@...> wrote:

I have a suspension fork (Giant Boulder XT frame w stock fork), and like it, have had no problems at all. So far 1 yr of riding as an xtracycle conversion (just over 1000 mi) in varied conditions, half of it under an approx 100lb load of kids and school gear. Lots of flex in the add-on frame under these conditions, very happy that the donor frame itself is stiff.
Brian, DCish

On Feb 21, 2013 10:53 AM, "kiltie_celt" <matthew-campbell@...> wrote:

Okay, so the search for a larger frame continues. One stumbling block is trying to keep the price of the frame to something reasonable. Reasonable being less than $200 I hope. There was a possibility of getting a Long Haul Trucker frame at cost, which is roughly about $280. I could still stomach that because the LHT frame is really nice, however that deal possibility fell through and is likely off the table at this point.

One of the things I began debating though, was going with another cro-moly steel frame like my Stumpjumper or going with an aluminum frame. I've been reading that a lot of folks like an aluminum frame to go with the FreeRadical because the stiffness of the aluminum helps combat some of the inherent flexiness of bolt on design of the attachment.

The problem I'm running into, looking at all the aluminum frames available is that most of them are designed around front suspension, whether they come with a fork or not. I can buy a suspension-corrected fork but that just seems to mean the frame is going to have a weird, jacked-up front end. I'm sure it doesn't affect the handling any, but has anyone felt that a suspension-corrected fork/frame combo handles weirdly with as an Xtracycle?

Another idea was building up the Xtracycle around the same 700c touring frame that my daily commuter bike is built on. I could still run a 26" rear tire which would help with weight capacity. However, the front fork would potentially limit the front tire (with fender), to no more than possibly 700x40, maybe, MAYBE 700x45, but I doubt that large size (equivalent to 28x1.75), would fit within the fork.

Of course that sort of Edgerunner layout might work, in theory but the front end would be jacked up a couple inches over the back and I don't know if that makes a difference, especially when the wheelbase is so long. Also, I wonder if the 700c up front would compromise low speed handling with a heavy load. I'm not too enamored of that idea as a whole. Just seems to have too many potential issues.

So, any thoughts from you folks regarding steel versus aluminum, 26 versus 700c, suspension-corrected versus frames designed to be totally rigid (ie. older 90s mtbs or something like a LHT)?