George,
I concur with everyone’s assessment about carrying an infant. You might
inadvertently cause shaken-baby syndrome to your precious one while just
going on a nice pleasant ride around the block.
I also strongly suggest you be wary about attaching a seat to your
snap-deck. Someone else touched on the suspension issues inherent to an
infant in an attached car seat, which again goes back to the shaken-baby
concern, but it is called a “snap-deck” for a reason. A few times when I
still had a wooden snap deck it came loose from a bump in the road. One
time it even came loose while transporting my girlfriend on the back! We
were just going over a metal plate on a bridge. Obviously you would be
much more careful with a kid on the back, but it is still something to
think about.
After that I retrofitted buckle straps near the front and back ends of
the snap deck, so that the straps wrapped around the deck and the metal
tubing of the racks. This way the snap deck could not be taken off or pop
off on its own without the straps being unfastened. Before I set up a
stoker bar the forward strap also doubled as a hand hold, similar to what
a cowboy on a bull might hold onto. Now on my Big Dummy I have the black
plastic polyethylene (?) deck from Xtracycle, which includes metal
mounting hooks that prevent the deck from popping off at all.
Ride safe, including your little ones…
_TONE_
There is some kind of suspension but I suggest to wait until the baby is maybe three month old too. So instead riding the bike I will use the public transport next summer or use our chariot cougar with the baby seat.
I have rode an x for years and absoultely love it! My wife and I just had a baby and I was woundering if anyone had made there own infant carrier. I was thinking of finding an old car seat and drilling holes in it to be able to mount it to the wooden board that comes with the free rad kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Dad of four here, and I agree: you really want to ride your bike with the new one, but it's probably best to wait a bit. When you do start riding, take it slow and easy and ride with fat tires at a lower pressure to provide some natural suspension. Be especially mindful of situations that may create a conflict (that's a conflict of space rather than a shouting match) with you and motorists when you start riding, so make sure to make yourself visible and to not ride in a way that encourages people to pass you too closely or turn in front of you. Also, putting a baby seat on the top of your deck can make your bike unexpectedly top heavy, so be aware of the tip factor, too.
I can pull a Burley with my Big Dummy (total kid capacity is four with that setup, the same as our minivan), and I'd feel far more comfortable with towing a baby in either a Burley or Chariot than on the back of my Big Dummy. You'll be busy enough just figuring out what to do with the new sprout, so don't overly complicate the situation.
Congratulations on your new addition and happy riding! Even if you wait just three months, it'll pass before your know it, though that might just be the sleep deprivation playing havoc with your short and medium term memory.
We put my second child in a Burley within his car seat, from about 6-9 months, then he joined his sister in the pea pods thereafter.
On Nov 21, 2012, at 9:41, Dave Lloyd <dave@...> wrote:
Dad of four here, and I agree: you really want to ride your bike with the new one, but it's probably best to wait a bit. When you do start riding, take it slow and easy and ride with fat tires at a lower pressure to provide some natural suspension. Be especially mindful of situations that may create a conflict (that's a conflict of space rather than a shouting match) with you and motorists when you start riding, so make sure to make yourself visible and to not ride in a way that encourages people to pass you too closely or turn in front of you. Also, putting a baby seat on the top of your deck can make your bike unexpectedly top heavy, so be aware of the tip factor, too.
I can pull a Burley with my Big Dummy (total kid capacity is four with that setup, the same as our minivan), and I'd feel far more comfortable with towing a baby in either a Burley or Chariot than on the back of my Big Dummy. You'll be busy enough just figuring out what to do with the new sprout, so don't overly complicate the situation.
Congratulations on your new addition and happy riding! Even if you wait just three months, it'll pass before your know it, though that might just be the sleep deprivation playing havoc with your short and medium term memory.
And some comments on one of their other posts. Though they also went for a trailer.
Neil.
On 20 Nov 2012, at 19:06, phishead_g <gussesg@...> wrote:
I have rode an x for years and absoultely love it! My wife and I just had a baby and I was woundering if anyone had made there own infant carrier. I was thinking of finding an old car seat and drilling holes in it to be able to mount it to the wooden board that comes with the free rad kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions", but
how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where the
seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the whole
thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed to make
adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into my
trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched up
on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual
workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm
building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the
purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like
brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
A good solid stand can take an xtracycle. I have a Park PCS-1 which is an older "home mechanic" model and it supports my xtra which weighs in around 45 lbs. It's a little more awkward than a regular bike, but it's certainly doable. I also stick my tandem in it and that's longer and heavier than my xtra. Just look for one with a good solid clamp and a stable base and you'll be all set.
On Wed, Nov 21, 2012 at 8:21 PM, kiltie_celt <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions", but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched up on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
Good to know. I guess if you can put a tandem into a workstand to work on it,
then an Xtracycle sounds like not that big of a deal. Cool.
--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sam Knight <knightscape@...> wrote:
>
> A good solid stand can take an xtracycle. I have a Park PCS-1 which is an
> older "home mechanic" model and it supports my xtra which weighs in around
> 45 lbs. It's a little more awkward than a regular bike, but it's certainly
> doable. I also stick my tandem in it and that's longer and heavier than my
> xtra. Just look for one with a good solid clamp and a stable base and
> you'll be all set.
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2012 at 8:21 PM, kiltie_celt <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions",
> > but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of
> > where the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that
> > clamping the whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past
> > when I've needed to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter
> > bike I've put it into my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear
> > since you have to sit hunched up on the floor to work on everything. I've
> > been planning on buying an actual workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be
> > of any use with the Xtracycle I'm building. Whether I can use it on the
> > Xtracycle is not going to bias the purchase, I'm getting a stand either
> > way. It's just that doing things like brakes and shifting would be so much
> > easier if I could stand up.
> >
> >
> >
>
I concur, I have the older version of the Park stand as well. It is a bit of a chore to get it up on the stand but works just fine. I too have used it for my tandem. However, with the tandem I usually throw a bungee around the back seat to the rafter as to not over load the stand to one side. This advice may not cross over to other brands but the Park stuff I own all seems to be top notch quality. If you are considering a bike stand I would steer you to a park brand one.
Sean
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2012, at 5:21 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions", but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched up on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
I guess the key is being sensible too and removing unnecessary items like the
deck, load bars, running boards, etc. Basically everything that weighs down the
bike and probably needs to be removed anyway for better access to the
mechanicals.
--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
> I concur, I have the older version of the Park stand as well. It is a bit of a
chore to get it up on the stand but works just fine. I too have used it for my
tandem. However, with the tandem I usually throw a bungee around the back seat
to the rafter as to not over load the stand to one side. This advice may not
cross over to other brands but the Park stuff I own all seems to be top notch
quality. If you are considering a bike stand I would steer you to a park brand
one.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 21, 2012, at 5:21 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
>
> > This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions",
but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where
the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the
whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed
to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into
my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched
up on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual
workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm
building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the
purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like
brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
> >
> >
>
I have been very adventurous with all 3 of my kids on bikes, to the disagreement of some folks who do not gel with my philosophy. I would add a different approach than some have advised. It will be a whole lot of work and inconvenient to buy, devise and incorporate a safe means to do this properly for the short amount of time they are that small. Not to mention, all that hassle could take some of the fun out of it. I would hang tight until the little guy can fit properly into a front mounted seat like a Ibert or a weeride. They are awesome since you can easily talk to them the whole time you are riding. Little ones require lots of conversation to keep busy and entertained while riding. The weeride also has a cool fixed pad in front in the event they fall asleep (which happened all the time with my kids). Once they get big enough to hold on then swap to the rear rider options. I think a stoker stem/bar with some bmx buddy pegs work great.
Contact me off list for details on the stoker set up.
Sean
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 20, 2012, at 11:06 AM, "phishead_g" <gussesg@...> wrote:
I have rode an x for years and absoultely love it! My wife and I just had a baby and I was woundering if anyone had made there own infant carrier. I was thinking of finding an old car seat and drilling holes in it to be able to mount it to the wooden board that comes with the free rad kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
The reality is, for most stuff you do not need a stand if you have a good center kickstand like the kickback. The front wheel is off the ground for front end work. For chain lube etc. you can rock it forward and prop it up or weight the front rack if you have one.
Sean
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2012, at 8:56 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
I guess the key is being sensible too and removing unnecessary items like the deck, load bars, running boards, etc. Basically everything that weighs down the bike and probably needs to be removed anyway for better access to the mechanicals.
--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
> I concur, I have the older version of the Park stand as well. It is a bit of a chore to get it up on the stand but works just fine. I too have used it for my tandem. However, with the tandem I usually throw a bungee around the back seat to the rafter as to not over load the stand to one side. This advice may not cross over to other brands but the Park stuff I own all seems to be top notch quality. If you are considering a bike stand I would steer you to a park brand one.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 21, 2012, at 5:21 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
>
> > This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions", but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched up on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
> >
> >
>
typically I place the bike stand clamp on the "tongue" of an XtraCycle, where the bike is balanced.
On Nov 21, 2012, at 9:18 PM, Sean wrote:
The reality is, for most stuff you do not need a stand if you have a good center kickstand like the kickback. The front wheel is off the ground for front end work. For chain lube etc. you can rock it forward and prop it up or weight the front rack if you have one.
Sean
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2012, at 8:56 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
I guess the key is being sensible too and removing unnecessary items like the deck, load bars, running boards, etc. Basically everything that weighs down the bike and probably needs to be removed anyway for better access to the mechanicals.
--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
> I concur, I have the older version of the Park stand as well. It is a bit of a chore to get it up on the stand but works just fine. I too have used it for my tandem. However, with the tandem I usually throw a bungee around the back seat to the rafter as to not over load the stand to one side. This advice may not cross over to other brands but the Park stuff I own all seems to be top notch quality. If you are considering a bike stand I would steer you to a park brand one.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 21, 2012, at 5:21 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
>
> > This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions", but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched up on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
> >
> >
>
I totally second the front seat! I used a bobike mini for my son. It was great. He and I could interact, he had the best view of all, bike balance stayed stable. Once he started to get too tall to sit in front of me I retro-fit his mini seat to the snap deck and he started riding behind me. By the time he was 3 1/2 we tossed the seat entirely and sat him directly on the snap deck along with a stoker bar and seat belt.
I know the excitement of wanting to bring your new little one riding. It really will be safest to wait until the baby isn't quite so "new." The bouncing and jarring of a bike ride is a lot of force for an infant, especially if he or she is on the back of the bike. And don't forget that the addition of a helmet is a lot of extra weight for the little one to manage. Another reason to consider waiting and going with a front mount seat is that I bet you will notice more potential bumps that would be too much for the little one. It just gives a different perspective with your babe practically nestled in between your arms while riding.
On Nov 21, 2012 11:12 PM, "Sean" <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have been very adventurous with all 3 of my kids on bikes, to the disagreement of some folks who do not gel with my philosophy. I would add a different approach than some have advised. It will be a whole lot of work and inconvenient to buy, devise and incorporate a safe means to do this properly for the short amount of time they are that small. Not to mention, all that hassle could take some of the fun out of it. I would hang tight until the little guy can fit properly into a front mounted seat like a Ibert or a weeride. They are awesome since you can easily talk to them the whole time you are riding. Little ones require lots of conversation to keep busy and entertained while riding. The weeride also has a cool fixed pad in front in the event they fall asleep (which happened all the time with my kids). Once they get big enough to hold on then swap to the rear rider options. I think a stoker stem/bar with some bmx buddy pegs work great.
>
> Contact me off list for details on the stoker set up.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 20, 2012, at 11:06 AM, "phishead_g" <gussesg@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I have rode an x for years and absoultely love it! My wife and I just had a baby and I was woundering if anyone had made there own infant carrier. I was thinking of finding an old car seat and drilling holes in it to be able to mount it to the wooden board that comes with the free rad kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks, George
>>
>
Definitely agree the bobike mini is great once they are big enough.
But if they are too small to go in a front seat they really should not be wearing a helmet!
Neil.
On 22 Nov 2012, at 09:37, Liz W Durham <lizwdurham@...> wrote:
I totally second the front seat! I used a bobike mini for my son. It was great. He and I could interact, he had the best view of all, bike balance stayed stable. Once he started to get too tall to sit in front of me I retro-fit his mini seat to the snap deck and he started riding behind me. By the time he was 3 1/2 we tossed the seat entirely and sat him directly on the snap deck along with a stoker bar and seat belt.
I know the excitement of wanting to bring your new little one riding. It really will be safest to wait until the baby isn't quite so "new." The bouncing and jarring of a bike ride is a lot of force for an infant, especially if he or she is on the back of the bike. And don't forget that the addition of a helmet is a lot of extra weight for the little one to manage. Another reason to consider waiting and going with a front mount seat is that I bet you will notice more potential bumps that would be too much for the little one. It just gives a different perspective with your babe practically nestled in between your arms while riding.
On Nov 21, 2012 11:12 PM, "Sean" <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have been very adventurous with all 3 of my kids on bikes, to the disagreement of some folks who do not gel with my philosophy. I would add a different approach than some have advised. It will be a whole lot of work and inconvenient to buy, devise and incorporate a safe means to do this properly for the short amount of time they are that small. Not to mention, all that hassle could take some of the fun out of it. I would hang tight until the little guy can fit properly into a front mounted seat like a Ibert or a weeride. They are awesome since you can easily talk to them the whole time you are riding. Little ones require lots of conversation to keep busy and entertained while riding. The weeride also has a cool fixed pad in front in the event they fall asleep (which happened all the time with my kids). Once they get big enough to hold on then swap to the rear rider options. I think a stoker stem/bar with some bmx buddy pegs work great.
>
> Contact me off list for details on the stoker set up.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 20, 2012, at 11:06 AM, "phishead_g" <gussesg@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I have rode an x for years and absoultely love it! My wife and I just had a baby and I was woundering if anyone had made there own infant carrier. I was thinking of finding an old car seat and drilling holes in it to be able to mount it to the wooden board that comes with the free rad kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks, George
>>
>
Definitely agree the bobike mini is great once they are big enough.
But if they are too small to go in a front seat they really should not be wearing a helmet!
Neil.
On 22 Nov 2012, at 09:37, Liz W Durham <lizwdurham@...> wrote:
I totally second the front seat! I used a bobike mini for my son. It was great. He and I could interact, he had the best view of all, bike balance stayed stable. Once he started to get too tall to sit in front of me I retro-fit his mini seat to the snap deck and he started riding behind me. By the time he was 3 1/2 we tossed the seat entirely and sat him directly on the snap deck along with a stoker bar and seat belt.
I know the excitement of wanting to bring your new little one riding. It really will be safest to wait until the baby isn't quite so "new." The bouncing and jarring of a bike ride is a lot of force for an infant, especially if he or she is on the back of the bike. And don't forget that the addition of a helmet is a lot of extra weight for the little one to manage. Another reason to consider waiting and going with a front mount seat is that I bet you will notice more potential bumps that would be too much for the little one. It just gives a different perspective with your babe practically nestled in between your arms while riding.
On Nov 21, 2012 11:12 PM, "Sean" <gear.head@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have been very adventurous with all 3 of my kids on bikes, to the disagreement of some folks who do not gel with my philosophy. I would add a different approach than some have advised. It will be a whole lot of work and inconvenient to buy, devise and incorporate a safe means to do this properly for the short amount of time they are that small. Not to mention, all that hassle could take some of the fun out of it. I would hang tight until the little guy can fit properly into a front mounted seat like a Ibert or a weeride. They are awesome since you can easily talk to them the whole time you are riding. Little ones require lots of conversation to keep busy and entertained while riding. The weeride also has a cool fixed pad in front in the event they fall asleep (which happened all the time with my kids). Once they get big enough to hold on then swap to the rear rider options. I think a stoker stem/bar with some bmx buddy pegs work great.
>
> Contact me off list for details on the stoker set up.
>
> Sean
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 20, 2012, at 11:06 AM, "phishead_g" <gussesg@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I have rode an x for years and absoultely love it! My wife and I just had a baby and I was woundering if anyone had made there own infant carrier. I was thinking of finding an old car seat and drilling holes in it to be able to mount it to the wooden board that comes with the free rad kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks, George
>>
>
When mine were little I strapped the carseat right into the Burley trailer. Worked great. Don't remember how old they were when I first did this. I don't think I did any damage. They are certainly healthy young adults right now. Car seat offers lots of great protection and support. This is not to say that waiting several months is not a great idea, only that when you do start you might as well use a system designed to carry them securely in a moving vehicle.
I use a good workstand with my Big Dummy. For most things it is OK to raise the
bike but let the front wheel stay on the ground--the angle doesn't matter. The
other thing that helps is to suspend the end from the ceiling if you have a good
way to do that.
David
I have heard of a bike shop in an old barn, which uses rope nooses tied
to the wooden rafters. I believe one attaches to the seat and another to
the handlebars. It sounds cool, but I am not sure how the possibility of
swinging might restrict or help while repairing a bike.
There was a documentary on-line about someone with an electric Xtracycle,
who biked across Canada from coast to coast. I think that person is even
probably on this list. Anyway, I remember him encountering a guy with a
bike shop where bikes were “suspended” from the ceiling. I say
“suspended” in quotes because technically the bikes were not suspended
because they did not swing or rotate. There were vertical pipes bolted to
the ceiling, and the mechanic would detach a bike’s seat, then use the
bike’s own seat post quick release to clamp the bike up in the air. In
effect, the pipe coming down from the ceiling replaced the seat post in
the seat tube. I thought that was a very clever idea because a few pipes
attached to the ceiling are much cheaper than several work stands, and
there is nothing in the way when sweeping/mopping the floor, etc. The
only drawback was temporarily marking the depth of the seat post to make
sure the seat was put back just like the rider wanted it.
Ride safe,
_TONE_
Speaking from experience the rope idea is much better in principle than practice. Before I bought a proper purpose built stand I did a rafter suspended arrangement using motorcycle tie downs. It worked, but was very inconvenient. Always seemed to be at the wrong angle and always was swaying away from me at the wrong time. If you have no other option give it a try but beware it has plenty of drawbacks. I would try some of the home stand variants on instructables.com first.
Sean
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From: "Tone" <tone@...>
Sender: rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 19:42:37 -0500
To: <rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [rootsradicals] Re: Bicycle workstand for Xtracycle?
I have heard of a bike shop in an old barn, which uses rope nooses tied
to the wooden rafters. I believe one attaches to the seat and another to
the handlebars. It sounds cool, but I am not sure how the possibility of
swinging might restrict or help while repairing a bike.
There was a documentary on-line about someone with an electric Xtracycle,
who biked across Canada from coast to coast. I think that person is even
probably on this list. Anyway, I remember him encountering a guy with a
bike shop where bikes were “suspended” from the ceiling. I say
“suspended” in quotes because technically the bikes were not suspended
because they did not swing or rotate. There were vertical pipes bolted to
the ceiling, and the mechanic would detach a bike’s seat, then use the
bike’s own seat post quick release to clamp the bike up in the air. In
effect, the pipe coming down from the ceiling replaced the seat post in
the seat tube. I thought that was a very clever idea because a few pipes
attached to the ceiling are much cheaper than several work stands, and
there is nothing in the way when sweeping/mopping the floor, etc. The
only drawback was temporarily marking the depth of the seat post to make
sure the seat was put back just like the rider wanted it.
I have a Big Dummy. For maintenance work I remove the wideloaders, etc. and hang it from the ceiling via the bike lift, where it is normally stored anyway. For most maintenance tasks, a little bit of swing isn't a huge deal. If it is, I either move it to the floor, or put something underneath one of the wheels so it doesn't move.
Steve
On Nov 21, 2012, at 7:21 PM, kiltie_celt wrote:
This might fit under the category of "obvious answers to dumb questions", but how do you generally work on your Xtracycles? I'm guessing because of where the seatpost ends up in relation to the rest of the bike, that clamping the whole thing in a workstand probably doesn't work? In the past when I've needed to make adjustments to my rear derailleur on my commuter bike I've put it into my trainer which works, but is a pain in the rear since you have to sit hunched up on the floor to work on everything. I've been planning on buying an actual workstand but I'm wondering if it'll be of any use with the Xtracycle I'm building. Whether I can use it on the Xtracycle is not going to bias the purchase, I'm getting a stand either way. It's just that doing things like brakes and shifting would be so much easier if I could stand up.
Title says it all. I'd like a tire that can handle some
off-road/gravel/hard-pack/maybe some mud, but which will also be fairly low
rolling resistance on the the street. Right now I think my Xtracycle will see
mostly street duty, but I'd like to have tires on it that will serve for those
times that I might ride on the rough stuff. Also, after seeing some blog posts
by a guy who uses his Big Dummy to carry equipment out to his research sites,
I've been inspired by the idea of maybe using my Xtracycle to get out to do
camping, birding, carrying my boat, etc. and again, it'd be nice to have some
more aggressive tires. Tires with sidewall dyno strips are a plus too, since I
think I'm going to convert over to sidewall dynamos for all of my bikes. Never
have to worry about extra batteries again. I was poking around on Bike Tires
Direct and saw these:
http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/kenda-k847-kross-plus-26x195-tire
They look pretty decent as an all-rounder, and they have a dynamo strip. Any
other thoughts or suggestions?
I like Schwalbe Big Apples, but they be too slick or pricy for your tastes (but
they're really nice).
If you have not already laid out the money for the sidewall dynamos, consider a
dynamo hub instead.
Clever Cycles is selling a dynamo wheel for about $120-$130 including shipping
and handling. I know,
spend-spend-spend, but the hub is silent, won't slip when wet, puts out a lot
more power, etc.
I tried sidewall dynamos first, but after breaking several brackets and two
dynamos....
The other reason for the hub generator, if you have kids, is that you use that
on their bikes, and you wire it up to the lights (on both your bike and theirs
with NO OFF SWITCH). Huge piece of mind when they stay out late on their bike;
no issue with "forgetting" the batteries or "forgetting" to turn it on, no
different rules for kids and adults, that's just how your bikes work (excuses
for doing it that way: "an off switch is just one more thing to break;
motorcycles use lights in the day to be more visible, why not bicycles?")
We can talk DIY lights if you want to save a little money there.
David
On 2012-11-23, at 9:17 PM, kiltie_celt <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
> Title says it all. I'd like a tire that can handle some
off-road/gravel/hard-pack/maybe some mud, but which will also be fairly low
rolling resistance on the the street. Right now I think my Xtracycle will see
mostly street duty, but I'd like to have tires on it that will serve for those
times that I might ride on the rough stuff. Also, after seeing some blog posts
by a guy who uses his Big Dummy to carry equipment out to his research sites,
I've been inspired by the idea of maybe using my Xtracycle to get out to do
camping, birding, carrying my boat, etc. and again, it'd be nice to have some
more aggressive tires. Tires with sidewall dyno strips are a plus too, since I
think I'm going to convert over to sidewall dynamos for all of my bikes. Never
have to worry about extra batteries again. I was poking around on Bike Tires
Direct and saw these:
> http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/kenda-k847-kross-plus-26x195-tire
> They look pretty decent as an all-rounder, and they have a dynamo strip. Any
other thoughts or suggestions?
If you look in the archives you will find some detailed discussions on tires from time to time. I like to take my dummy everywhere, including bike-packing, running errands around town and some mild mountain biking with real single track. I am currently running a Maxxis Holy Roller 2.4 out front and either a Kenda Nevegal or Small Block 8 out back in a 2.2. The Maxxis has great volume, rolls pretty darn well and can tolerate higher pressures for prolonged street rides or lower pressures for some off road fun. Don't get me wrong, it is not an off road tire, but it does remarkably well all things considered. The Kendas out back are really overkill for all intensive purposes. The Small Block 8 actually rolls pretty nice and will do just fine with varied pressures. The Nevegal is a pig on the street but when you turn on to the dirt it is hard to beat. I usually have about 50% non-paved on my rides so I take the trade off willingly. You really need to be honest with yourself about how much you are going to ride under which conditions. If your off road follies will be few and far between, you may just keep some spare mountain tires in the rafters and only mount them for those adventures.
On a side note, I would look back in the archives for some sizing direction as well. High volume tires on these bikes work great. However, you really need to pay attention with the combinations you may want to mix. Some high volume tires mixed with narrow Q cranks and triple chain rings will result in your chain dragging the side wall while in granny gear. For instance, I have a Dummy, and for a while I ran the 2.4 Maxxis out back with a standard XT crank, it rubbed the tire in granny gear. That same tire has not been an issue for others running a different crank combo than I have (maybe compact road cranks, different cassette etc.).
As for the lighting, I would agree with others: if you are going to go non-battery, go all the way and spring for a good hub the first time around. I have been building modifying and swapping out lighting systems for years in my bike. I am finally switching to a dyno hub as we speak. I bought the Shimano, but there are a few out there. If you want to get creative with building your own lighting rigs, look on some of the do it yourself sites. I really like instructables.com they seem to always have some cool new lighting ideas with detailed instructions so you can do it yourself. Which every you choose, be sure to share with us. We love to be inspired! If you like e-mail me direct I can share some pictures of my lighting set up. The folks on the list already checked it out a while back.
Sean
On Nov 23, 2012, at 6:17 PM, "kiltie_celt" <kiltie_celt@...> wrote:
Title says it all. I'd like a tire that can handle some off-road/gravel/hard-pack/maybe some mud, but which will also be fairly low rolling resistance on the the street. Right now I think my Xtracycle will see mostly street duty, but I'd like to have tires on it that will serve for those times that I might ride on the rough stuff. Also, after seeing some blog posts by a guy who uses his Big Dummy to carry equipment out to his research sites, I've been inspired by the idea of maybe using my Xtracycle to get out to do camping, birding, carrying my boat, etc. and again, it'd be nice to have some more aggressive tires. Tires with sidewall dyno strips are a plus too, since I think I'm going to convert over to sidewall dynamos for all of my bikes. Never have to worry about extra batteries again. I was poking around on Bike Tires Direct and saw these: http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/kenda-k847-kross-plus-26x195-tire
They look pretty decent as an all-rounder, and they have a dynamo strip. Any other thoughts or suggestions?
I ride Serfas Drifters on my Xtra and really like them. Flat protection which is a big plus for me - I'm not looking forward to ever having to change a tube with my daughter in tow. They have a kind of inverse knobbiness, so good on the road but a decent grip in the lose stuff too.
I use Maxxis Hookwoms. Heavy as lead, but low rolling resistance, smooth, stiff,
and strong. Use the on street, gravel, dirt, occasional rock. No problems. Just
heavy.
David Dannenberg
I run Serfas Drifters, which I like a lot (wear well, nice on pavement, decent on dirt), but since then I've seen some Continental Town and Country which seems like it would do just a tad better on dirt (bigger cut-outs). Anyway, Drifters are puncture-resistant, which as someone else mentioned, is a huge plus for me.
Brian.
On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 5:56 PM, David Dannenberg <ddannenberg@...> wrote:
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