On 2011-01-21, at 12:23 PM, David Backeberg wrote:

> On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 12:11 PM, Stacey <staceylmelis@...> wrote:
> > I'm looking for suggestions to make myself ultra-visible on my bike at
night. I've seen folks riding with some really bright front/rear/flashing/solid
lights, but I'm not sure where to start looking.
> > Budget-friendly, rechargeable, compact are preferred.
>
> Ha. Pick two.

No, build your own.  Can you solder?

Get a 5xAA battery pack (from Digikey, e.g.), get 20+ Sanyo AA Eneloop batteries
and 3 chargers.

Add to that:

1 CREE XPG on puck (http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w139.php )
1 Lens (http://ledsupply.com/carclo-optics-xpe.php I would use plain-tight)
1 Red or orange-red CREE XPE on puck (http://ledsupply.com/creexpe-red-1.php )
1 Buckpuck (93% efficient, http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-n-350.php )
or Bucktoot (85% efficient, http://ledsupply.com/bucktoot.php )

And some aluminum to attach it to, plus random clamps (see below).
You'll need some epoxy, and some clamps, and some silicone 2 for waterproofing
and strain relief.
Also, some acrylic mirror from a craft shop.

Optional, is a second amber headlight and lens, for "low beams" (on account of
you will blind people with this, on any trail).

My best efforts so far, here:

headlight:
http://dr2chase.wordpress.com/2010/12/03/a-simple-functional-home-made-headlight\
-mount/

taillight (ignore the rest):
http://dr2chase.wordpress.com/2010/11/27/standlight-tweaking-and-pack-ugh-ing/

Note that mine are driven by a hub dynamo, and there's a big pile of circuit to
extract the maximum power while not igniting the electronics, and that circuit
about doubles the price, though all those AA batteries are not cheap.

David

+1 on Eneloops + PDW Radbot 1000. The Radbot is a very thirsty light compared to
Planet Bike superflashes, so it's good to have a rechargeable.

If you want to really go bananas (pun intended) with side visibility, I've found
the Monkeylectric Monkey Light to be just awesome. That's actually the side I'm
most worried about; I've almost been right-hooked a few times (where the car
sees you, hits the gas and tries to turn to the right in front of you).
Generally, bikes are unable to correctly register the bike's speed from behind,
and these were even closer than usual because of the Xtracycle's added length.
For some reason, the Monkey Light's display has magically made drivers much,
much less likely to right hook, partially because the front edge of my bike is
clearly visible and because they can tell how fast my wheel is going around.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, ama3655@... wrote:
>
>
> Stacey -
>
> I think the best deals on lighting right now are coming from Portland
> Design Works. They are compact, inexpensive compared to many, and use 
standard
> sized batteries. The Radbot 1000 and Danger Zone rear lights will  really
> get folks attention, and that's the angle I'm most paranoid about. They  fit
> the same mounts as another popular brand, and they come with a variety  of
> nice mounting options.
>
> For batteries I use Sanyo's Eneloop rechargeables. You can get them in  AA
> and AAA sizes, and the chargers are cheap and easy to use. If you do run
> them  down while you're out somewhere you can find non rechargeable  batteries
> that work at any grocery or convenience store.
>
> If you have trouble finding these locally the lighting is available at
> biketiresdirect.com, and for batteries try batteriesamerica.com
>
> FatRob
>
>
> In a message dated 1/21/2011 11:11:41 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> staceylmelis@... writes:
>
> Hi  all,
> I'm looking for suggestions to make myself ultra-visible on my bike at
> night. I've seen folks riding with some really bright
> front/rear/flashing/solid lights, but I'm not sure where to start looking.
> Budget-friendly, rechargeable, compact are preferred.
> Thanks for your  expertise!
> Stacey
>

I second the Radbot and Planetbike. I use one of each. Nice mounts, simple AAA
batts that I buy in volume from Costco. The Radbot 1000 is even visible in
daylight so I use it during the day in heavily traffic.
Also the Monkeylectric which in addition to being visible is very amusing.
I use a dynamo (Supernova) up front that I run at all times.

David Dannenberg

I'm ready to commit and get the Nuvinci N171 hub, but I will need new cables.  I
found a tandem length Rohloff set for a good price, but I can't see any good
photo's of the housing.  Does anyone know if the housing is decent?  I would
assume that Rohloff would only sell good stuff, but before I buy I'd like to
know if it's decent, or if I should just spend a bit more for cable I have used
before.

My experience with Rohloff cable has been all good.

Cheers

Joel

On Sat, 2011-01-22 at 23:05 +0000, jtrops wrote:
>
> I'm ready to commit and get the Nuvinci N171 hub, but I will need new
> cables. I found a tandem length Rohloff set for a good price, but I
> can't see any good photo's of the housing. Does anyone know if the
> housing is decent? I would assume that Rohloff would only sell good
> stuff, but before I buy I'd like to know if it's decent, or if I
> should just spend a bit more for cable I have used before.
>
>
>
>
>

Thanks for the replies.  I will go ahead and get the Rohloff cable.  I still
need to figure out the best way to keep chain tension.  I'm thinking of making
something that clamps to the wideloader cross tube.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Joel <joel@...> wrote:
>
> My experience with Rohloff cable has been all good.
>
> Cheers
>
> Joel
>
> On Sat, 2011-01-22 at 23:05 +0000, jtrops wrote:
> >
> > I'm ready to commit and get the Nuvinci N171 hub, but I will need new
> > cables. I found a tandem length Rohloff set for a good price, but I
> > can't see any good photo's of the housing. Does anyone know if the
> > housing is decent? I would assume that Rohloff would only sell good
> > stuff, but before I buy I'd like to know if it's decent, or if I
> > should just spend a bit more for cable I have used before.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

I've never been a fan of Rohloff's housing, and just use the "generic" QBP stuff
made by Jagwire and available in bulk rolls of 25 or 100 feet.

My problem with the Rohloff housing is the removable inner lining. I've found
that it's not forgiving to mishandling, causing it to crimp easily which adds
excessive drag to the shifting. I've also found the inner lining to migrate out
of the housing as the miles wear on, though in its defense this was in a
"broken" housing setup and shouldn't be a problem in a continuous housing run.

I've had no complaints with the QBP stuff over the years and, given its cost, is
relatively painless to trashcan when the time comes. I can't say that with any
of the expensive "premium" cable / housing systems.

  - Nate

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "jtrops" <jtrops@...> wrote:
>
> I'm ready to commit and get the Nuvinci N171 hub, but I will need new cables. 
I found a tandem length Rohloff set for a good price, but I can't see any good
photo's of the housing.  Does anyone know if the housing is decent?  I would
assume that Rohloff would only sell good stuff, but before I buy I'd like to
know if it's decent, or if I should just spend a bit more for cable I have used
before.
>

I'd recommend using any help you can in the form of no-turn washers or a plate.
The lower the gearing of a hub, the greater the "anti-torque" the flats must
resist. Rohloff publishes these values an a percentage of the input torque, and
for its lowest gear, 98% of the input torque at the crank must be resisted by
whatever anti-torque device is employed (i.e. torque arm or axle plate).

The Nuvinci's lowest gear is equivalent to gear 4 on a Speedhub, and therefore
its max anti-torque is approximately only 50% of crank input (based on Rohloff's
figures), but that's still a great deal of force to resist and I would guess not
healthy to count on just the dropouts against the flats to do the job.

If you're interested in seeing Rohloff's anti-torque numbers, check page 25 of
their downloadable manual here:
http://www.rohloff.de/uploads/media/Benutzerinfo_en.pdf

  - Nate


--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "jtrops" <jtrops@...> wrote:
> It looked like the flats of the Nuvinci axle mated very nicely into the
freeradical dropouts, and that it would have prevented any axle rotation without
the no-turn washer, or the vertical dropout kit.

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, ama3655@... wrote:





> I think the best deals on lighting right now are coming from Portland
> Design Works.






~~~I have to admit, I wasn't aware of this company, I went to their link and
immediately checked out their bar-ista, a handlebar coffee mug holder but what
really caught my eye and ended up with me buying one, is the OXO coffee travel
mug they linked to

http://www.oxo.com/p-719-stainless-steel-liquiseal-travel-mug.aspx

I'm a bit of a coffee freak roasting green coffee beans in the garage, & pulling
shots of espresso at home

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26137108@N04/4553256581/sizes/l/in/photostream/

but I also consume larger amounts of coffee and thought the 14 ounce OXO travel
mug was worthy enough to try.  If I don't like it, OXO has a 100% garunteed
return policy, in that if you don't like it, send it back for a full refund

While at the PDW website I checked out their other wares including perusing the
product videos.  Nice stuff, all of it!  Guess I've been outta da loop=:-)


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Our faults irritate us most when we see them in others.
-- Dutch Proverb



http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26137108@N04/








>
>
> Stacey -
>
> I think the best deals on lighting right now are coming from Portland
> Design Works. They are compact, inexpensive compared to many, and use 
standard
> sized batteries. The Radbot 1000 and Danger Zone rear lights will  really
> get folks attention, and that's the angle I'm most paranoid about. They  fit
> the same mounts as another popular brand, and they come with a variety  of
> nice mounting options.
>
> For batteries I use Sanyo's Eneloop rechargeables. You can get them in  AA
> and AAA sizes, and the chargers are cheap and easy to use. If you do run
> them  down while you're out somewhere you can find non rechargeable  batteries
> that work at any grocery or convenience store.
>
> If you have trouble finding these locally the lighting is available at
> biketiresdirect.com, and for batteries try batteriesamerica.com
>
> FatRob
>
>
> In a message dated 1/21/2011 11:11:41 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> staceylmelis@... writes:
>
> Hi  all,
> I'm looking for suggestions to make myself ultra-visible on my bike at
> night. I've seen folks riding with some really bright
> front/rear/flashing/solid lights, but I'm not sure where to start looking.
> Budget-friendly, rechargeable, compact are preferred.
> Thanks for your  expertise!
> Stacey
>

I thought about getting one of the EBB setups, but to the best of my knowledge
they won't work with a square taper bottom bracket.

I think the Kore "chain reactor" might be able to mount on the front cross tube
of the big dummy, and put upward pressure on the chain.  It's kind of like what
I had in mind, and I only learned about it when I was looking at different
tensioner options.

After looking through the various Nuvinci materials available it seems like the
reason they originally said no to vert dropouts was that the no-turn washer
wouldn't sit in the droupout correctly.  With this in mind, I'm thinking of
making a plate that extends the slot on the dropout low enough to use the
standard no turn washer, and also put a lower mounting hole for the chain
tensioner to get it out of the way of the shifting box.  This plate would bolt
into the existing derailleur mount.


--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, David Dannenberg <ddannenberg@...> wrote:
>
> If you don't have a kickback, I'd consider this:
http://www.forwardcycle.com/products.html
>

I didn't see any of the torque values before, but I was already considering that
there is a good reason for the no turn washers.  My current thinking is to make
a plate that answers both of my problems: chain tension, and axle rotation.  I
wrote more about it in another post.

If it works I should be able to install and remove the wheel without having to
deal with the plate at all.  That would be nice.  I know the Nuvinci plate is
inexpensive, but I would rather not have to remove it every time I get a flat.

Thanks for your help.

Jerry
--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "speedub_nate" <speedub.nate@...> wrote:
>
> I'd recommend using any help you can in the form of no-turn washers or a
plate. The lower the gearing of a hub, the greater the "anti-torque" the flats
must resist. Rohloff publishes these values an a percentage of the input torque,
and for its lowest gear, 98% of the input torque at the crank must be resisted
by whatever anti-torque device is employed (i.e. torque arm or axle plate).
>
> The Nuvinci's lowest gear is equivalent to gear 4 on a Speedhub, and therefore
its max anti-torque is approximately only 50% of crank input (based on Rohloff's
figures), but that's still a great deal of force to resist and I would guess not
healthy to count on just the dropouts against the flats to do the job.
>
> If you're interested in seeing Rohloff's anti-torque numbers, check page 25 of
their downloadable manual here:
http://www.rohloff.de/uploads/media/Benutzerinfo_en.pdf
>
>  - Nate
>
>
> --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "jtrops" <jtrops@> wrote:
> > It looked like the flats of the Nuvinci axle mated very nicely into the
freeradical dropouts, and that it would have prevented any axle rotation without
the no-turn washer, or the vertical dropout kit.
>

<snipped>
I'm looking for suggestions to make myself ultra-visible on my bike at
night. I've seen folks riding with some really bright
front/rear/flashing/solid lights, but I'm not sure where to start
looking.
</snipped>

A quick thought re: flashing headlights...if you ride at all in the
dark on trails with other cyclists, PLEASE don't use flashing mode on
your headlights. For me personally, brilliant flashing lights coming
out of the darkness are totally disorientating. I've almost ridden
myself into a ditch a few times because of riders going the other
direction with flashing headlights.

Elaine Nelson
http://card.elainenelson.org/

Great suggestions! Thanks, everyone for taking the time.
My Xtra build is in under way... excited to hit the road this week!
-Stacey

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "Stacey" <staceylmelis@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm looking for suggestions to make myself ultra-visible on my bike at night.
I've seen folks riding with some really bright front/rear/flashing/solid lights,
but I'm not sure where to start looking.
> Budget-friendly, rechargeable, compact are preferred.
> Thanks for your expertise!
> Stacey
>

Want to thank everyone for advice about frozen brakes, especially the link
explaining why it happens and how to fix it. I am adhd so doing what was in the
link a little more than I could handle, but the MacGyver in me knew there had to
be a way to dry out the casing.
So, I brough the bike in the house and took the top and bottom of the casing and
took a can of compressed air with the straw inserted and blew it in the casing
and what do you know?
This morning at 26 degrees no problems with my brakes.
Thanks again appreciate everyone here.
Beth

If I may add a brief plug for home-made lights again -- whether you go with a
dynamo (more expensive) or batteries (cheaper, more hassle), if you build your
own, adding "low beams" (amber, located and/or aimed lower) costs as little as
$15 -- a double-throw switch, an LED, a lens, a P-clamp, and a scrap of aluminum
angle stock (I use two, not just one).

David

On 2011-01-25, at 9:28 AM, Vik Banerjee wrote:

> +100 - I ride a dark MUP to and from home every evening and it's harsh when
folks with multiple flashing lights are coming the other way.  When I meet my GF
downtown for dinner I'lll sometimes pass 20+ commuter cyclists heading home and
it feels like I'm either at a rave or in a CIA interrogation...LMAO!
>
>
> safe riding,
>
> Vik

Hi,
I am from Colombia. I lived in Berkeley for two years and I am planning to visit
it again with my wife before leaving for Australia where I will do a PhD in
Urban Ecology.
During my time in east bay I loved all xtracycles I saw in the its street,
however I never owned one.
We will be in Berkeley from February 11th to the 20th and I was wondering where,
if possible, I can borrow an xtracycle from somebody. My wife has never been in
Berkeley and we would love to ride together on an xtracycle instead of driving.
Thanks in advance,

Hi all,
The archives had some chain threads, but I couldn't find any that addressed
this...

Working on my conversion, ran into a few snags. The donor bike is a 2007ish
Rockhopper with non-stock components: 9 speed cluster, Deore rear derailleur,
unknown front derailleur (maybe Deore), MTB triple on front.

The main problem right now is chain clearance- rubbing on the chainstay and
sometimes on the special nuts, depending on the gear. I shortened the chain a
bit (measured w/ big-to-big +2 links), which didn't help enough to be a
solution. We played a bit with the FreeRad alignment, but I'm using the
FAP/kickstand plate clamp arrangement since there's no chainstay bridge, so it
seems like there isn't much room to fudge there.

I'm reluctantly ready to call Terracycle to order the Idler... before I shell
out the $100 I thought I'd see if anyone had other suggestions.

The other thing is the lower chain- does that huge length of chain bounce around
a lot when riding? I looked at the Glamour Shots :) of various Xtras here and
nobody seems to have any chain "support". Is it just fine as is?

I also have a lot of chain rubbing with the front derailleur- may just have to
replace that, although maybe it will resolve if I can get the chain up a bit
higher.

Thanks for your insight! I appreciate the expertise here...
Stacey

FWIW, During my first conversion I found myself into this exact
same spot with my mountain bike. Even though I'd already shortened
the chain my LBS took two more links out and suddenly I could hit
all my gears.

-Bill

On Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 04:43:45PM -0000, Stacey wrote:
> Hi all,
> The archives had some chain threads, but I couldn't find any that addressed
this...
>
> Working on my conversion, ran into a few snags. The donor bike is a 2007ish
Rockhopper with non-stock components: 9 speed cluster, Deore rear derailleur,
unknown front derailleur (maybe Deore), MTB triple on front.
>
> The main problem right now is chain clearance- rubbing on the chainstay and
sometimes on the special nuts, depending on the gear. I shortened the chain a
bit (measured w/ big-to-big +2 links), which didn't help enough to be a
solution. We played a bit with the FreeRad alignment, but I'm using the
FAP/kickstand plate clamp arrangement since there's no chainstay bridge, so it
seems like there isn't much room to fudge there.
>
> I'm reluctantly ready to call Terracycle to order the Idler... before I shell
out the $100 I thought I'd see if anyone had other suggestions.
>
> The other thing is the lower chain- does that huge length of chain bounce
around a lot when riding? I looked at the Glamour Shots :) of various Xtras here
and nobody seems to have any chain "support". Is it just fine as is?
>
> I also have a lot of chain rubbing with the front derailleur- may just have to
replace that, although maybe it will resolve if I can get the chain up a bit
higher.
>
> Thanks for your insight! I appreciate the expertise here...
> Stacey
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> You're getting this message because you signed up to be an Xtracycle roots
radical.
>
> To Post a message, send it to:    rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> ride to believe.Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
--
-=| Bill Swingle - unfurl@...

I got my Nuvinci hub today on a donor bike, and took it around the block.  Wow. 
It's really cool.  I can't wait to get it on the Dummy.  I am waiting for some
small parts before I can swap it over.

Interestingly, when I called Fallbrook for the vertical dropout kit they wanted
to make sure I had the N171, and not the N360 because the N360 isn't approved
for vertical dropouts.  So, I guess I got the right hub in the end anyway.  I
can't imagine that I couldn't make the new hub work, but it's moot considering
that the price of the n171 (about $100) made it the only choice for me right
now.

The N360 is compatable and approved for use with vertical dropouts and does not
require a fitting kit... from http://www.fallbrooktech.com/08_bike_FAQ.asp

"Can a NuVinci CVP be installed in an existing bicycle?

Yes..
Hubs are available with either 32 or 36 spoke holes but only for a 135mm
dropout.  Normal installation is in a horizontal dropout.  Installation of the
N171 model in a vertical dropout requires an adapter and a chain tensioner. The
N360 model does not require an adapter.

Fallbrook recommends that the N171 model of the NuVinci CVP be installed only in
a comfort or cruiser bicycle.  The N360 model is suitable for installation in a
number of other bicycle types. "

--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "jtrops" <jtrops@...> wrote:
>
> I got my Nuvinci hub today on a donor bike, and took it around the block. 
Wow.  It's really cool.  I can't wait to get it on the Dummy.  I am waiting for
some small parts before I can swap it over.
>
> Interestingly, when I called Fallbrook for the vertical dropout kit they
wanted to make sure I had the N171, and not the N360 because the N360 isn't
approved for vertical dropouts.  So, I guess I got the right hub in the end
anyway.  I can't imagine that I couldn't make the new hub work, but it's moot
considering that the price of the n171 (about $100) made it the only choice for
me right now.
>

> FWIW, During my first conversion I found myself into this exact
> same spot with my mountain bike. Even though I'd already shortened
> the chain my LBS took two more links out and suddenly I could hit
> all my gears.

Ditto.

My reading of the Shimano install manual was to run the chain over big-to-big,
cinch it as tight as possible and then add the minimum 1 link pair to get the
right slack.

It worked perfectly on my FreeRad conversion - Raleigh Amazon steel MTB
conversion, see http://goo.gl/Te53w - and has worked on all my other bikes too.

*BUT* I will admit to some clatter of the FreeRad chain when it is slack and not
being ridden; when the chain is slack and not under tension the chain does
clatter a little on the drive-side chain stay, eg: when you are pushing the
bike.

However, the clatter happens atop the protective shim that was there atop the
original bike for the same purpose, and the chain does not rub when ridden
because the tension lifts it up.

So I'm happy.

	 -a

That makes a lot more sense.  Why would you make an "improved" hub without
considering the need for vertical dropouts?  I'd bet that the customer service
rep that I talked to mistook the lack of an N360 vert. kit with it not being
compatible.

Anyway, my hub will be running on the dummy sometime next week.


--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "bty456398" <r.bushill@...> wrote:
>
> The N360 is compatable and approved for use with vertical dropouts and does
not require a fitting kit... from http://www.fallbrooktech.com/08_bike_FAQ.asp
>
> "Can a NuVinci CVP be installed in an existing bicycle?
>
> Yes..
> Hubs are available with either 32 or 36 spoke holes but only for a 135mm
dropout.  Normal installation is in a horizontal dropout.  Installation of the
N171 model in a vertical dropout requires an adapter and a chain tensioner. The
N360 model does not require an adapter.
>
> Fallbrook recommends that the N171 model of the NuVinci CVP be installed only
in a comfort or cruiser bicycle.  The N360 model is suitable for installation in
a number of other bicycle types. "
>
> --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "jtrops" <jtrops@> wrote:
> >
> > I got my Nuvinci hub today on a donor bike, and took it around the block. 
Wow.  It's really cool.  I can't wait to get it on the Dummy.  I am waiting for
some small parts before I can swap it over.
> >
> > Interestingly, when I called Fallbrook for the vertical dropout kit they
wanted to make sure I had the N171, and not the N360 because the N360 isn't
approved for vertical dropouts.  So, I guess I got the right hub in the end
anyway.  I can't imagine that I couldn't make the new hub work, but it's moot
considering that the price of the n171 (about $100) made it the only choice for
me right now.
> >
>

I had more problems with my chain before my conversion, now no problems. But I
had my LBS put everything together. I don't have any problems with bouncing
chain problems or anything else.

Beth Aiton
Athletic Director
STMS