Geoff,
Sorry to take so long to get back to you. Finally got the camera out
and snapped some pics of my hitch design. Again, if any of the links
don't work just look for Wes' X on the photos page (there are also
some additional pictures of the hitch there that I didn't link to in
this post).
Here's a view of the hitch installed:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rootsradicals/photos/album/302938271/pic
/910409929/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
Note the rear fender placement in this picture if you're planning on
hooking up a trailer - it's rotated much lower than most people do
but you have to have it that low to keep the road muck of your little
one. I actually added that reflective triangle mainly to serve as a
mud flap extension.
Here's what the hitch setup looks like removed:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rootsradicals/photos/album/302938271/pic
/1374329296/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
Here's a closeup of the collar/spacer I used for my setup:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rootsradicals/photos/album/302938271/pic
/1662199036/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
I also thought of using a wooden dowel with a hole drilled through
it, or a rubber or plastic bushing of some sort, but these were the
first thing I saw at the hardware store that seemed to really fit the
bill.
This last picture is supposed to show the turning radius of a trailer
with the hitch mounted as I have it, but I think primarily it just
shows how dirty my garage is...oh well!
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rootsradicals/photos/album/302938271/pic
/1728383457/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
Bottom line, with this setup I've never come even close to binding
the trailer in
real-life riding. When I was pulling the trailer before the X I had
to pay a lot closer attention to how sharp I was turning (granted the
bike had a lot tighter turning radius back then too) and I would
occasionally hit the attachment arm with the back wheel.
Another note: Make sure and use self-locking nuts. I'm not sure if
it's 100% necessary, but I leave the assembly loose enough that the
hitch socket can rotate semi-freely. The chariot hitch design has a
pretty good range of motion, but I like to have the hitch able to
move rather than stressing the parts if such an occasion arises (say
a steep ditch). I've only had this approach back-fire on me 1 time
and that was when I had about 80-90 pounds of groceries in the back
of the chariot (which you aren't going to be able to do unless you've
had a custom bag made too) which put a lot of upward force on the
hitch (groceries hang behind the wheels which tries to send the hitch
skyward) and on the way home I noticed the trailer swerving badly
after a sizable bump. I stopped and found the hitch had rotated 180
degrees. I rotated it back to it's normal position and didn't have
any further trouble with it. Since then I've learned to pack the X
heavy and the trailer light (if I even have to use the trailer which
is probably less than 50% of my shopping trips).
--- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, "Geoff Cisler" <gcisler@...>
wrote:
>
> I personally would love to see some more pictures. I'm planning on
> using my chariot, once i finish up my bike build, and would be
> interested in seeing more specifics. and I got kind of lost in the
> verbal description, but it is 7am right now...
>
> geoff
> jamaica plain, ma
>