Thanks for the post and welcome aboard.  Is that a 26 or 30?  I can't
tell from the pictures.  If it is a 26 where did the sail number come
from since they did not make over about 170 of them?  What is the
hull number?  Where are you?  Please let us know.

Doug Young
Sgian Dubh N26 No. 14

Hi everybody, I am a proud owner of Niagara 26 hull 69, boat name
KifKif, registered in Canada (that why the number 34614), we are
located in Montreal, on the lake of two mountains, at Club Nautique
Deux-Montagne.  They're presently 6 Niagara 26 at the club.  My
father previously own a Shark for 10 year (hull #244) then we own
together an HR25 hull #71 for 12 years then we bought the Niagara in
1995.  I start sailing when I was 5 years old on the Shark.  We race
those boats 2 times a week in any condition and with a lot of fun.

I was very please to find this owner page and look forward to discuss
with all of you about one of the nicest boat around. :-)

(Excuse me in advance for my English spelling, I am better in French)

Many Niagara in my area (at least 4) experience problem with their
rudder/hull attachment (bracket), it broke... Do you know if it is a
common problem? If yes, where can a get replacement bracket for mine.

Daniel St-Onge

KifKif, N26 #34614 (hull #69)

Daniel

The rudder bracket failure is common on the Niagara 26's sailing on Lake
Winnipeg. Of the 4 on Lake Winnipeg, they have all experienced a failure
of the lower Gudgeon. I had mine refabricated by a local shop upgrading
the 10ga. x 1" to 1/4 X 1 1/2 for the lower and 3/16 x 1 for the upper.
The failure of the bracket can have catastrophic effects as the rudder
will twist sideways and typically mangle the upper gudgeon and twist the
shaft as well. Hope this helps.

Wolfe Smythe
Hot Chocolate
N-26 #30



Wolfe Smythe CET
Vice-President Logistics
Princess Auto Ltd.
PO Box 1005
Winnipeg, MB. R3C 2W7
Ph. (204) 654-5217
email: wolfe.smythe@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I wonder if anyone can tell me any major differences between the
two.  I'm looking at a 1988 Niagara and would appreciate any info.

Stan Naylor

Hi-Just "rejioned"(lost track of previous ID!) I have a 1967 Niagara 30
"Margarita" hull#03; any other N30 owners out ther . I am interested in any info
on the model- I understand that only a few were built in '67 & '68. She looks
much like a Shark' but with standing headroom and a little larger. We have been
sailing her for 4 seasons in Nova Scotia, done a little racing and she holds her
own well against the competition in ASPN handipapped racing. ANY info would be
appreciated.-Tony

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I know of used n26 dacron sails that are being sold off. Anyone
interested can contact me for phone number.

John,

Which sails?  What age? Where are they located?

I know there is a guy in Ottawa area looking for a used main.
Forget exactly who but I think he poted here.

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Full Tilt 2
Niagara 26 002
mike.hoyt@...
--- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, "ragingwind2003
<john.comeau@s...>" <john.comeau@s...> wrote:
> I know of used n26 dacron sails that are being sold off. Anyone
> interested can contact me for phone number.

see niagara 26 being  parted  out( n26#84)
http://www.boatforsale.org/class/default.asp


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Stan,

Although all the Niagara 26s are good boats, the earlier ones are
better but of course older.  There were three builders the best were
the first two Hiner and Gowman.  The last, Hulman, made some changes
to the boat which made it slower and it had more fiberglass
problems.  Even though they made the glass thicker it has more glass
problems.  The added weight also slowed the boat down.  There were
rigging changes too (eg no swepted back spreaders).

Doug Young
N26 #14

--- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, "jooee1
<naylor8462@r...>" <naylor8462@r...> wrote:
> I wonder if anyone can tell me any major differences between the
> two.  I'm looking at a 1988 Niagara and would appreciate any info.
>
> Stan Naylor

Doug,

My N26 #31 Hinterhoeller 1979 has straight spreaders and upper diamonds and
split shrouds, double chain plates, I believe this modification was to help in
pointing, although I am not sure this is the case, I wonder if swept back
spreaders would benefit me? perhaps is Richard H. could comment on this aspect.
When I was shopping for the N26 the Hinterhoeller model was finished nicer
inside and seemed to stand up better although maintenance has a lot to do with
this. I am planning to change the rudder fittings and rebed the stanchions this
year to circumvent any surprises, leaks etc.

Geoff Harvey
N26 #31
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: garvock
   To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 3:23 PM
   Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] Re: Early model Niagara 26 vs Late
model 26 footer


   Stan,

   Although all the Niagara 26s are good boats, the earlier ones are
   better but of course older.  There were three builders the best were
   the first two Hiner and Gowman.  The last, Hulman, made some changes
   to the boat which made it slower and it had more fiberglass
   problems.  Even though they made the glass thicker it has more glass
   problems.  The added weight also slowed the boat down.  There were
   rigging changes too (eg no swepted back spreaders).

   Doug Young
   N26 #14

   --- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, "jooee1
   <naylor8462@r...>" <naylor8462@r...> wrote:
   > I wonder if anyone can tell me any major differences between the
   > two.  I'm looking at a 1988 Niagara and would appreciate any info.
   >
   > Stan Naylor


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Originally the 26's were built with aft swept shrouds and no jumpers.
The jumpers were added to improve headstay tension, hence pointing ability, by
effectively stiffening the top of the mast.
The problem with swept back shrouds is one of tuning.  The geometry is difficult
to explain in words so bear with me.
With the boat at the dock, relax the backstay and tighten upper and lower
shrouds until they have equal tension.  Now reef down on the backstay as much as
you dare.  As expected, the middle of the mast will bow forward and the tip aft.
As a result, the height of the upper shroud tangs has been reduced and moved
aft.  You will notice that whereas your lowers have become tighter, the uppers
have become quite slack.  If you do the same when sailing, the top 2/3 of the
mast will drop off to leeward and increase weather helm.
To some extent you can correct this by the way you tune your rig, but each
setting will work at a specific fore & aft bend, which may not be ideal for the
current wind conditions.
In-line spreaders significantly reduce this effect, so weather helm is reduced,
again improving upwind speed.  The downside is that the spreader tip has a
negative effect on the headsail.
If it were my boat, I'd leave the spreaders in line and leave the jumpers on.

Richard
Geoff Harvey wrote:
My N26 #31 Hinterhoeller 1979 has straight spreaders and upper diamonds and
split shrouds, double chain plates, I believe this modification was to help in
pointing, although I am not sure this is the case, I wonder if swept back
spreaders would benefit me? perhaps is Richard H. could comment on this aspect.
When I was shopping for the N26 the Hinterhoeller model was finished nicer
inside and seemed to stand up better although maintenance has a lot to do with
this. I am planning to change the rudder fittings and rebed the stanchions this
year to circumvent any surprises, leaks etc.




-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Harvey [SMTP:gharvey@...]
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 2:12 PM
To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] Re: Early model Niagara 26 vs
Latemodel 26 footer

  << File: ATT00000.htm >>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I agree that the jumpers must have been added.  Your boat is
definitely a Hinterhoeller.  They made all boats up to about 70.  I
had 39 and now I have 14.  The finish in side changed a few times,
esp. since the first few.  I know the guy with no. 2 and it is
nothing like 14 or 39.

As for the jumpers I would leave them too but I do not like the
spreaders not being swept back.  You will not be able to bring your
No. 1 head sail in as close and point as well.  All the Hulmans were
made like that and I have out pointed everyone I have met, although
it could be my sailing.  Ha!

Best of luck,
Doug

--- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, "Geoff Harvey"
<gharvey@c...> wrote:
> Doug,
>
> My N26 #31 Hinterhoeller 1979 has straight spreaders and upper
diamonds and split shrouds, double chain plates, I believe this
modification was to help in pointing, although I am not sure this is
the case, I wonder if swept back spreaders would benefit me? perhaps
is Richard H. could comment on this aspect. When I was shopping for
the N26 the Hinterhoeller model was finished nicer inside and seemed
to stand up better although maintenance has a lot to do with this. I
am planning to change the rudder fittings and rebed the stanchions
this year to circumvent any surprises, leaks etc.
>
> Geoff Harvey
> N26 #31
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: garvock
>   To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 3:23 PM
>   Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] Re: Early model Niagara
26 vs Late model 26 footer
>
>
>   Stan,
>
>   Although all the Niagara 26s are good boats, the earlier ones are
>   better but of course older.  There were three builders the best
were
>   the first two Hiner and Gowman.  The last, Hulman, made some
changes
>   to the boat which made it slower and it had more fiberglass
>   problems.  Even though they made the glass thicker it has more
glass
>   problems.  The added weight also slowed the boat down.  There
were
>   rigging changes too (eg no swepted back spreaders).
>
>   Doug Young
>   N26 #14
>
>   --- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, "jooee1
>   <naylor8462@r...>" <naylor8462@r...> wrote:
>   > I wonder if anyone can tell me any major differences between
the
>   > two.  I'm looking at a 1988 Niagara and would appreciate any
info.
>   >
>   > Stan Naylor
>
>
>         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>               ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>   niagarasailboatownerspage-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Guys

Welcome # 31. Hot Chocolate is # 30 and has swept back spreaders. Though a
bit tricky to adjust when setting up in the spring, I like the control I
have over mast bend and forestay tension. My Shark had jumper spreaders (
Diamond spreaders in some cultures) and swept back spreaders which stopped
the upper mast from twisting off as much. I would be interested in the
configuration dimensions for the jumper setup on the Niagara.

Thanks

Wolfe Smythe
Hot Chocolate
N-26 #30

Wolfe Smythe
Vice-President Logistics
Princess Auto Ltd.
PO Box 1005
Winnipeg, MB. R3C 2W7
Ph. (204) 654-5217
email: wolfe.smythe@...

--- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, Richard
Hinterhoeller <rhinterhoeller@h...> wrote:
> Originally the 26's were built with aft swept shrouds and no
jumpers.
> The jumpers were added to improve headstay tension, hence
pointing ability, by effectively stiffening the top of the mast.
> The problem with swept back shrouds is one of tuning.  The
geometry is difficult to explain in words so bear with me.
> With the boat at the dock, relax the backstay and tighten upper
and lower shrouds until they have equal tension.  Now reef down
on the backstay as much as you dare.  As expected, the middle
of the mast will bow forward and the tip aft.  As a result, the
height of the upper shroud tangs has been reduced and moved
aft.  You will notice that whereas your lowers have become
tighter, the uppers have become quite slack.  If you do the same
when sailing, the top 2/3 of the mast will drop off to leeward and
increase weather helm.
> To some extent you can correct this by the way you tune your
rig, but each setting will work at a specific fore & aft bend, which
may not be ideal for the current wind conditions.
> In-line spreaders significantly reduce this effect, so weather
helm is reduced, again improving upwind speed.  The downside
is that the spreader tip has a negative effect on the headsail.
> If it were my boat, I'd leave the spreaders in line and leave the
jumpers on.
>
> Richard

It is hard to add much to Richard's essay. Personal experience
from a decade of sailing #80 was that the "fastest" setup was to
tune kinda like the J24. I.e. we could set up the swept spreaders
to load the forestay, and then use the backstay for limited tension
help on the forestay and to further bend the spar to depower the
main in bigger air. One caviat is that when we cranked enough
tension in to start to bend the untapered spar, the head door
opening would start to narrow a bit... so a teak 1X2 was fitted at
the top as a "spreader bar" to counteract this. I determined the
the support post was deflecting down into the frp sole/interior
molding. I heard that some N-26's could develop a bit of crush in
the cabin top under the step, but I only saw this on #150, not a
Hinterhoeller boat.
I had a "two fingers" neutral helm until the rail went under -- I
could climb to weather over most 28 to 30 foot racer/cruisers in
local races. Then, with the great aft sections in our design, we
would run downwind at over 8 kts with perfect control -- a smaller
fractional chute is a wonderful thing!
The joke was, that when the following wave engulfed the prop on
the outboard and spun it, we were gettin' into "grin territory"...
Lordy, if only George had scalled to up to a 33 to 35 footer!
(I  love my Olson 34, but............)

Best,
Loren
N-26 # 80, ten years

Daniel,

I have Hull # 16 and also had the same problem with my rudder.
Unfortunately I was winning a long distance race at the time it broke,
(1 mile to the finish). Needless to say, I DNF'd. Anyway, I had a new
one fabricated at a metal shop. I also replaced the upper one as
well. I went to a 2" x 1/4" piece of stainless.

I beleive your boat was originally owned by Richard Hinterhoeller and
it was one of the last or the last one built by Hinterhoeller Yachts.
You should have a lot of fun with it. I've owned mine for 21 years.

Martin Mckenzie
Wave Walker
N-26 #16

--- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, wolfe.smythe@p...
wrote:
> Daniel
>
> The rudder bracket failure is common on the Niagara 26's sailing on
Lake
> Winnipeg. Of the 4 on Lake Winnipeg, they have all experienced a
failure
> of the lower Gudgeon. I had mine refabricated by a local shop
upgrading
> the 10ga. x 1" to 1/4 X 1 1/2 for the lower and 3/16 x 1 for the
upper.
> The failure of the bracket can have catastrophic effects as the
rudder
> will twist sideways and typically mangle the upper gudgeon and
twist the
> shaft as well. Hope this helps.
>
> Wolfe Smythe
> Hot Chocolate
> N-26 #30
>
>
>
> Wolfe Smythe CET
> Vice-President Logistics
> Princess Auto Ltd.
> PO Box 1005
> Winnipeg, MB. R3C 2W7
> Ph. (204) 654-5217
> email: wolfe.smythe@p...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

With the continuuing drop in Lake Erie water levels, I think its time
for a depth meter. Any suggestions or recommendations (through hull,
brand etc.)? Thanks

Gareth Parfitt
N26 #12
Dawn Treader

I have a raymarine ST60 series depthfinder on my n35. It has a through hull
transducer.  It works fine.
Fred Sellers

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Gareth Parfitt
   To: Niagara Sail Boat Owners
   Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 3:16 PM
   Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] Depth Meter


   With the continuuing drop in Lake Erie water levels, I think its time
   for a depth meter. Any suggestions or recommendations (through hull,
   brand etc.)? Thanks

   Gareth Parfitt
   N26 #12
   Dawn Treader


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

thanks Fred. I've got some gift certificates burning a hole in my
Christmas stocking.

Fred Sellers wrote:

>  I have a raymarine ST60 series depthfinder on my n35. It has a
> through hull transducer.  It works fine.
> Fred Sellers
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Gareth Parfitt
>   To: Niagara Sail Boat Owners
>   Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 3:16 PM
>   Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] Depth Meter
>
>
>   With the continuuing drop in Lake Erie water levels, I think its
> time
>   for a depth meter. Any suggestions or recommendations (through hull,
>
>   brand etc.)? Thanks
>
>   Gareth Parfitt
>   N26 #12
>   Dawn Treader
>
>
>         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>               ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>   niagarasailboatownerspage-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
                         ADVERTISEMENT


>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gareth

I installed a new Raytheon ST40 Bidata (Depth and Speed) system in Hot
Chocolate last year. To put in the new Knotlog I had to reduce the diameter
of the thruhull opening previously occupied by my SR mariner transducer. I,
as most others I'm sure are reluctant to drill any more holes in the bottom
of a boat than necessary. I installed the thruhull for the depth transducer
without drilling any holes. I epoxied it to the inside of the hull in the
forward compartment under the V-berth. A friend of mine that owns Infinity
N-26 # 90 subsequently did an identical installation. both are working
perfectly and no additional holes are required. The nice feature of this
installation is that it is ahead of the Keel and directly in the centerline
so it gives the best read. ( Note: words of wisdom from another cruiser: a
depthsounder only confirms what the Keel has already told you)

The installation process.

       Best Location for Transducer
    Float the boat in a known depth of water.
    Connect the instrument  to the transducer.
    Fill a ziplock bag with water
    place the Ziplock bag with water on the hull where you anticipate the
    transducer will mount.
    (this takes 2 people) place the transducer on the bag and have someone
    read the display. when you get a good read this will be the location to
    epoxy in the transducer. (note: mine read exact depth and required no
    offset)

       The Preparation
    Buy some modeling clay at the dollar store, or swipe it from some kid.
    Build a dam with the modeling clay at the installation location high
    enough to contain a puddle of epoxy that will house the diameter of the
    flange on the transducer.
    Wrap the transducer tightly in stretch wrap (will be removed later)
    Mix up enough epoxy to fill the space defined by the dam to a level that
    will allow the flange to make an impression in the puddle, but not
    enough to cover the flange.
    Pour in epoxy ( avoid any air bubbles as they will adversely effect the
    accuracy and performance), Set the wrapped transducer into the puddle
    and brace it so it can't shift. Once the epoxy is cured the transducer
    is removed. This results in an impression of the transducer flange. The
    epoxy will probably shrink a bit, this is the reason the transducer is
    not glued  one step.
    If you're unsure of the ability for the transducer to read a this point
    you can fill the impression with water and retest as in step 5 - Best
    Location.

       Final Installation
     Brace yourself here is the final installation.
    Mix up another puddle of epoxy and pour into the impression ( again
    eliminate air bubbles) squeeze the transducer into the epoxy puddle to
    expel any air. brace in place until the epoxy cures.
    That's it, you're done and no additional holes in the boat.
    Turn on the instrument and go sailing.

       Additional Tips
    Use regular marine epoxy not fast cure. Fast cure epoxy may trap air
    bubbles
    When locating the transducer select a spot where loose gear can't fly
    around and impact the device.
    Once the transducer is installed additional epoxy can be poured to cover
    the flange for extra security.



Good Luck.

Wolfe Smythe

Hot Chocolate
N-26 #30

Wolfe Smythe
Vice-President Logistics
Princess Auto Ltd.
PO Box 1005
Winnipeg, MB. R3C 2W7
Ph. (204) 654-5217
email: wolfe.smythe@...

Sorry All

The instructions didn't email in a very clear format. I have attached a
"Microsoft  Word Version" to this email.

(See attached file: Depth Transducer Installation.doc)

Wolfe Smythe
Vice-President Logistics
Princess Auto Ltd.
PO Box 1005
Winnipeg, MB. R3C 2W7
Ph. (204) 654-5217
email: wolfe.smythe@...

----- Forwarded by Wolfe Smythe/PAL on 03/03/2003 08:56 AM -----

                       Wolfe Smythe
                                                To:     
niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
                       03/03/2003 08:43         cc:
                       AM                       Subject: Re: [Niagara Sail Boat
Owners Page] Depth Meter
                                                (Document link: Wolfe Smythe)




Gareth

I installed a new Raytheon ST40 Bidata (Depth and Speed) system in Hot
Chocolate last year. To put in the new Knotlog I had to reduce the diameter
of the thruhull opening previously occupied by my SR mariner transducer. I,
as most others I'm sure are reluctant to drill any more holes in the bottom
of a boat than necessary. I installed the thruhull for the depth transducer
without drilling any holes. I epoxied it to the inside of the hull in the
forward compartment under the V-berth. A friend of mine that owns Infinity
N-26 # 90 subsequently did an identical installation. both are working
perfectly and no additional holes are required. The nice feature of this
installation is that it is ahead of the Keel and directly in the centerline
so it gives the best read. ( Note: words of wisdom from another cruiser: a
depthsounder only confirms what the Keel has already told you)

The installation process.

       Best Location for Transducer
    Float the boat in a known depth of water.
    Connect the instrument  to the transducer.
    Fill a ziplock bag with water
    place the Ziplock bag with water on the hull where you anticipate the
    transducer will mount.
    (this takes 2 people) place the transducer on the bag and have someone
    read the display. when you get a good read this will be the location to
    epoxy in the transducer. (note: mine read exact depth and required no
    offset)

       The Preparation
    Buy some modeling clay at the dollar store, or swipe it from some kid.
    Build a dam with the modeling clay at the installation location high
    enough to contain a puddle of epoxy that will house the diameter of the
    flange on the transducer.
    Wrap the transducer tightly in stretch wrap (will be removed later)
    Mix up enough epoxy to fill the space defined by the dam to a level that
    will allow the flange to make an impression in the puddle, but not
    enough to cover the flange.
    Pour in epoxy ( avoid any air bubbles as they will adversely effect the
    accuracy and performance), Set the wrapped transducer into the puddle
    and brace it so it can't shift. Once the epoxy is cured the transducer
    is removed. This results in an impression of the transducer flange. The
    epoxy will probably shrink a bit, this is the reason the transducer is
    not glued  one step.
    If you're unsure of the ability for the transducer to read a this point
    you can fill the impression with water and retest as in step 5 - Best
    Location.

       Final Installation
     Brace yourself here is the final installation.
    Mix up another puddle of epoxy and pour into the impression ( again
    eliminate air bubbles) squeeze the transducer into the epoxy puddle to
    expel any air. brace in place until the epoxy cures.
    That's it, you're done and no additional holes in the boat.
    Turn on the instrument and go sailing.

       Additional Tips
    Use regular marine epoxy not fast cure. Fast cure epoxy may trap air
    bubbles
    When locating the transducer select a spot where loose gear can't fly
    around and impact the device.
    Once the transducer is installed additional epoxy can be poured to cover
    the flange for extra security.



Good Luck.

Wolfe Smythe

Hot Chocolate
N-26 #30

Wolfe Smythe
Vice-President Logistics
Princess Auto Ltd.
PO Box 1005
Winnipeg, MB. R3C 2W7
Ph. (204) 654-5217
email: wolfe.smythe@...



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am about to upgrade an old Garmin system and I have conflicting
advice.  Some argue a pc based system is best, others like the chart
plotters.

Opinions?

My wife bought me a Garmin GPS Map 76S. Lots of features, and I purchased
some pc software with it. I'm inclined to say that for cruising, a chart
plotter would be better.
   -----Original Message-----
   From: mcint0sh <mcint0sh@...> [mailto:mcint0sh@...]
   Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 10:55 PM
   To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] chart plotters


   I am about to upgrade an old Garmin system and I have conflicting
   advice.  Some argue a pc based system is best, others like the chart
   plotters.

   Opinions?


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In 1975, George Hinterhoeller of Niagara on the Lake Ontario Canada,
the designer of the immensely popular Shark daysailer, wanted an
affordable, overnight cruisable yet fast sailboat.

His design became the Niagara 26.  Some 170(?) boats were built in
all.  Three builders ultimately became involved.  Goman in Whitby
Ontario built ? boats.  Hallman in Goderich built ? boats.  And
Hinterhoeller's Niagara boat works built ? .

George passed away in 1999, but his legacy lives on. There are an
estimated ? Niagara 26's still sailing - mostly in Canada and the US
Northeast.

This site provides a resource for all Niagara owners - or would be
owners - to admire, equip, race, and cruise these well designed &
built sailboats - with special emphasis on the Niagara 26.

We have a new N26 member folks, Misty Morning.  Check out her folder
and give her a big weclome to the Niagara family.   Where is KYC and
who is her owner?  Tell us some more...how long have you had her?

Doug:

I love the effort you and others are putting into this group.  I hope
you don't mind me refining some of your information.

The lines plan for the Niagara 26 is dated January 8, 1978.  I know hull
#1 was launched in time for the Dockside Boat Show (mid September) and
I'm pretty sure it was 1978, although it might have been 1979.

Hinterhoeller Yachts built hulls 1 through 69.  The last two were custom
built by our Buyer, Jerry Woodhouse (hull 68) and myself (hull 69).

In the autumn of 1980, the tooling was shipped to Goman Boat Company in
Midland, Ontario, who produced 26's under sub-contract during the 1981
production season.

Goman subsequently took over all facets of marketing and production
until they fell on hard times.  At this juncture, Hallman Manufacturing
of Beamsville, Ontario, procured the tooling and produced a number of 26's.

Hopefully some owners of post 1980 boats can help us refine the hull
numbers and manufacturing dates.

Richard

garvock wrote:
> In 1975, George Hinterhoeller of Niagara on the Lake Ontario Canada,
> the designer of the immensely popular Shark daysailer, wanted an
> affordable, overnight cruisable yet fast sailboat.
>
> His design became the Niagara 26.  Some 170(?) boats were built in
> all.  Three builders ultimately became involved.  Goman in Whitby
> Ontario built ? boats.  Hallman in Goderich built ? boats.  And
> Hinterhoeller's Niagara boat works built ? .
>
> George passed away in 1999, but his legacy lives on. There are an
> estimated ? Niagara 26's still sailing - mostly in Canada and the US
> Northeast.
>
> This site provides a resource for all Niagara owners - or would be
> owners - to admire, equip, race, and cruise these well designed &
> built sailboats - with special emphasis on the Niagara 26.

--- In niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com, garvock
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
> We have a new N26 member folks, Misty Morning.  Check out her
folder
> and give her a big weclome to the Niagara family.   Where is KYC
and
> who is her owner?  Tell us some more...how long have you had her?

The pictures of Misty Morning N26 #31 were taken on a cruise to the
Thousand Islands I docked at KYC Kingston Yacht Club for 2 nights a
lovely spot. My home club is SCBC Smugglers Cove Boat Club just
upstream from Niagara on the Lake, Ontario. #31 was built in 1979
and has some interesting wood work below, 3 cupboards where the
shelves normally are on each side and a sterio or small book
cupboard on the port side behind the door. I sailed a shark for many
years prior to the N26 and like the traveller position and single
handed capability. I have self tailing winches and harken furling
and there is a extra small hatch just behind the mast which is great
on hot days. I single handed from Niagara to Kingston with spinniker
most of the way hitting 8 knots frequenty straight downwind very hot
windy day the autohelm worked great and didnt mind my weight at the
shrouds. It was dark off Trenton so just used the 150 thru the ducks
to Kingston averaging 4.5 knots 24 hours straight! boy was I tired
hence my 2 nights at KYC. #31 has a OMC inboard and folding prop, I
have replaced the starter and ignition, impeller and exhaust hoses
and now works fine. There isnt a cutout for a outboard on the
transom so I reinforced with marine ply and bolted on a transom
plate which I can slide a small outboard motor bracket. I have a
Zodiac Cadet with 4 horse, 2 cylinder Johnson 37 lbs. In flat seas
the little johnson will power the boat at 4 knots just in case the
trustworthy OMC decides not to start etc. I will dig out some
interior pictures to post.I bought #31 in 1999 from a friend at SCBC
and there are 3 other niagara 26's at SCBC I believe one is #3 and
another is #69 Richard's old N26. Looking forward to some racing and
cruising this summer!

welcome misty morning! I suspect there will be some misty mornings in the
boat yard in Buffalo over the next few weeks as we prep Dawn Treader
(N26-12) for another year...
   -----Original Message-----
   From: garvock [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
   Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 1:29 AM
   To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] Welcome Misty Morning


   We have a new N26 member folks, Misty Morning.  Check out her folder
   and give her a big weclome to the Niagara family.   Where is KYC and
   who is her owner?  Tell us some more...how long have you had her?


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sell or buy the boats with other dealers in your city or across the
country.  Very easy to register.  Free membership.

   www.eboattrade.com/i/1

Hi Richard,
I was wondering if you can help
When decommisioning last year I noticed a kink in one of the stays.
It is about a 3 or 4 degree kink where it was probably poorly handled in the
rigging up prior to my purchasing last year.
Is there a way to correct the kink, or should I leave it alone.
Thanks Vinson Dynes





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Be very careful with this one, my friend!

It depends on what you mean by a kink.  Mike Quill can better talk to you on
this one, but when my mast got schmucked, the criteria was that is the metal
is distorted in any way you want to replace the stay.  If it is a gentle
bend with no distortion, you should be OK.  Over to you for rebuttal, Mike!

49 days to launch at NSC!  (no more gloating, Wolfe!)

Yikes ahoy!  David
--
            _/)
~~~~~~~~~


> From: "Vinson Dynes" <dynes_v@...>
> Reply-To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 17:35:42 +0000
> To: niagarasailboatownerspage@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Niagara Sail Boat Owners Page] RE: kinks in rod rigging
>
>
>
> Hi Richard,
> I was wondering if you can help
> When decommisioning last year I noticed a kink in one of the stays.
> It is about a 3 or 4 degree kink where it was probably poorly handled in the
> rigging up prior to my purchasing last year.
> Is there a way to correct the kink, or should I leave it alone.
> Thanks Vinson Dynes
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>
>
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>
>
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> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>



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