for instance regular, 3 row and 6 row,

CLR --  wish I had thought of that!  The Ad boasts it cleaning
ability -  Nice work steve !


  Cheers
  Jim

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <gufty4@y...> wrote:
> I tried the vinagar trick without any luck and I dont look to
kindly
> on the elbo grees method. Last night i soaked a test pice in CLR a
> standard kitchen cleaner. Within an hour all the green and black
crud
> was gone. the stuff worked wonders. I hope others find this usfull.

Thanks to Wal's recent post on the subject, I discovered why my
mashing process sometimes results in lower-than-expected yeilds for
me.

Even though the starch conversion happens for the most part around
150-155F, the mash needs to be held at(or at least pass-through) the
95-105F range in order to really break down the gummy structures of
the starch so that the enzymes can crack them.  For my last batch, I
didn't add the grains until 140F and the result was a ppg yeild of
only .022 instead of the expected .031 that I got with the previous
batch (which I added the grains at around 60F and heated slowly).

So to maximize your grain yeilds, always add the grains to cool water
and let them warm to 150F slowly.  The article I read suggested that
holding the mash at 100F for 20 minutes will usually result in
several points improvement in the yeild.  With the small batches we
are working with, every point counts.

Flaming_pinto


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
wrote:
> This is almost identical to my procedure except I don't add sugar
and
> I ferment and distill on the grain.
> I've had a few failed batches when I used only amalyse powdered
> enzymes from the local homebrew store.  I don't know whether the
> amalyse powder wasn't a proper mixture of the different types of
> enzymes, or if it was just dead.  I don't think many people buy the
> powdered enzymes so who knows how long it has been sitting on the
> shelf.  I have had good luck when using malted barley for the enzyme
> action.
> I usually cook my corn longer than 1 hour (at almost boiling).  I've
> used both cracked corn and fine meal.  The meal takes less cooking
and
> has better yield, but you can't strain it and you must ferment and
> distill on the grain. My boiler has electric elements and I haven't
> (as of yet) had any problems scorching a corn wash.  I use extra
water
> to help prevent this.
>
> The only trouble I've had with scorching is with a pears.  I ran
some
> pears through the sausage grinder and then fermented and
distilled.  I
> think the wash was thick enough that it wasn't 'self stirring' when
> heated, and the pear flesh seemed to be acting as an insulator.  A
bad
> combination.
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
> <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
> > I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me
> add
> > my two cents in here.
> >
> > I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
> the
> > brew shop) in the follwing ratio:
> >
> > 8 lbs corn
> > 3 lbs barley
> > 3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)
> >
> > You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out -
I
> > boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans.  Then you bring the temp
> > down to 150F and add the barley.  Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
> > (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the
liquid
> > off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
> > fermentor.  You can also brew on the grains and drain before
> > distilling.
> >
> > I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
> > molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast
(Red
> > Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk
> fermentation,
> > I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.
> >
> > Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak.  The stuff
> I
> > put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.
> >
> > Hope this helps.  I am in the process of brewing up some scotch
> using
> > all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row.  I can't wait
> to
> > see how this turns out after oaking.
> >
> > flaming_pinto
> >
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant
> info.
> > I
> > > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying
> something
> > > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
> > >
> > > Frank
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> > > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
> > letting
> > > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
> > comes
> > > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to
look
> > > for.
> > > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-
Hybird?
> > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > >  Frank

2-row generally has the lowest nitrogen content, therefore has more
convertable starch - that means more fermentable sugars and higher
alcohol yeild.

6-row has more husks on each seed and therefore contains much more of
the enzymes required to convert all the starches in a mash.


Usually, if you are mashing corn or other non-malted grains, you want
to add some 6-row for the enzymes.  If you are mashing all barley
(like I am at the moment) You want to use mostly 2-row for maximun
yeild, but also add some 6-row to ensure you have plenty of enzymes
for the conversion.

Flaming_pinto

Well, I think I have all my hardware in place, except for the drain
on the condenser. I had one bitch of a time coiling the copper
tubing to my liking so it had a continuous slope on it with no low
spots; I wanna make sure I collect ALL the good stuff. I ended up
shoe gooing it around a 2 gal planter pot, and this will sit in a 4
gal pail with some rocks and running water. This is my first go at
this so don't LYAO. I'm going to use a propane camp stove for my
heat. If the water test goes well then I'll run some homemade wine
through.

Some q's:
1. How far should the thermometer extend into the cooker - into the
vapour area or all the way down into the wash?
2. My cooker has about 2.5l of wash capacity. With a 15% wash, how
much of the heads should I expect? How much product per run?

I Made my lyne arm about 24" long at around 30 degrees. Thx to corn
wash for the suggestion about cork - it was easy to get the
thermometer in.

Results posted later. Along with more questions I'm sure.

Sol.

Stripped a wash last night and another this AM,  Making my first
REAL reflux run with about 2 gallons of low wines diluted with H2O.
After collecting 225ml of Foreshots and heads,  Started the hearts,
So far 600ML of very clear Non smelly (Well it smells like ethanol)
liquid,  I have been smelling/tasting it often off the back of a
spoon and it has an almost unprecievable odor,  I tried a shot of
pure a while ago,  No discernable flavor other than a distinct
warming of the inside of my mouth, but from the mouth down all I
could feel was HOT!  WOO HOO!! I think I may have the real thing
here FINALLY!!

One thing puzzles me,  I know everyone is different but the pure
stuff has a little bit of a sweet smell,  is that normal??

I can answer the thermo question for you.

I have a 6qt pot still and what I have found with the thermometer is
that the difference in temperature between having it all the way down
in the wash (close to the bottom of the pot) and all the way up near
the top in the steam is only 2-3F degrees difference.  I personally
stick mine in so that it is about an inch from the bottom of the pot
down in the wash and it works well for me.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bcsolitarydrinker"
<bcsolitarydrinker@y...> wrote:
> Well, I think I have all my hardware in place, except for the drain
> on the condenser. I had one bitch of a time coiling the copper
> tubing to my liking so it had a continuous slope on it with no low
> spots; I wanna make sure I collect ALL the good stuff. I ended up
> shoe gooing it around a 2 gal planter pot, and this will sit in a 4
> gal pail with some rocks and running water. This is my first go at
> this so don't LYAO. I'm going to use a propane camp stove for my
> heat. If the water test goes well then I'll run some homemade wine
> through.
>
> Some q's:
> 1. How far should the thermometer extend into the cooker - into the
> vapour area or all the way down into the wash?
> 2. My cooker has about 2.5l of wash capacity. With a 15% wash, how
> much of the heads should I expect? How much product per run?
>
> I Made my lyne arm about 24" long at around 30 degrees. Thx to corn
> wash for the suggestion about cork - it was easy to get the
> thermometer in.
>
> Results posted later. Along with more questions I'm sure.
>
> Sol.

So dumb me bought a pressure cooker with no rubber ring. Bring 'er
up to temp and it's steaming like crazy. However, I am happy to
report that my condenser starting dripping cool water after about 2
minutes of water boiling. And that was without any water in the
condenser.

I whipped out and returned the cooker, and lo and behold there was
one the same size but in ss, so I snagged it. Different hole on the
top but nothing a little home handywork didn't fix. So now I'm
waiting for my silicone to dry on the modified lid, and am
leakproofing my condenser. Wash has almost fermented out completely -
  I'll be checking the sg tonight.

Later dudes. Sol.

welcome to the club, mate. don't get drunk though
while distilling. it does taste sweet... that is why I
like it. BTW, next step is to make a screwdriver with
good orange juice and 95% pure abv.... It ain't gonna
taste like crap in the bars...

=====

I can be wrong I must say
Cheers, Alex...
A


__________________________________
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

Hang in there Sol,  I made my 1st reflux run today.  It's worth the
wait to get it right!!  I have a shot of 94% sitting here warming an
ice cube as I type.  It's good to be Da-King. :oD

Thanx Alex, and thanks for your Excellent design!! (SR) Works
great!!  Started the run @ 78*  and sat there solid as a rock most
of the afternoon till the tails started coming in.  Got 64 oz of
hearts B4 I collected the tails..

Now to try some of those Fruit Liquer Recipes...


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, BOKAKOB <bokakob@y...> wrote:
> welcome to the club, mate. don't get drunk though
> while distilling. it does taste sweet... that is why I
> like it. BTW, next step is to make a screwdriver with
> good orange juice and 95% pure abv.... It ain't gonna
> taste like crap in the bars...
>
> =====
>
> I can be wrong I must say
> Cheers, Alex...
> A
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

1. Vapour area. You don't want to know what temp the wash is, just the
vapour.
2. About 375ml pure as driven snow but if it's a pot still you'll only
get about 40% roughly so anywhere between 800 and 1000ml depending on
how well it runs. You may need to distill a couple of times to get a
good strong product.
Check out www.homedistiller.org for better info on running it.

Message: 18
    Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2003 16:45:29 -0000
    From: "bcsolitarydrinker" <bcsolitarydrinker@...>
Subject: Water testing today

you need to keep track of your vapor temperature.

The only thing that your wash temperature will tell you is when all
of the ethanol is distilled off.  A wash with an ethanol content will
boil at a lower temperature than one with a pure water content. So
when the temp raises to 100 degrees C you have got all that your
going to get out if the pot.

you also should take into account foaming.  if foam covers your
thermometer, the reading will be that of the wash and not the vapor.

grain washes and fermented fruits tend to foam up alot.  that is the
reason for the reccomendation to only fill the boiler half to 2/3
full.

if foam enters your small diameter tubing, the chance of blockage and
resultant pressure build up can be very dangerous.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bcsolitarydrinker"
<bcsolitarydrinker@y...> wrote:
> Well, I think I have all my hardware in place, except for the drain
> on the condenser. I had one bitch of a time coiling the copper
> tubing to my liking so it had a continuous slope on it with no low
> spots; I wanna make sure I collect ALL the good stuff. I ended up
> shoe gooing it around a 2 gal planter pot, and this will sit in a 4
> gal pail with some rocks and running water. This is my first go at
> this so don't LYAO. I'm going to use a propane camp stove for my
> heat. If the water test goes well then I'll run some homemade wine
> through.
>
> Some q's:
> 1. How far should the thermometer extend into the cooker - into the
> vapour area or all the way down into the wash?
> 2. My cooker has about 2.5l of wash capacity. With a 15% wash, how
> much of the heads should I expect? How much product per run?
>
> I Made my lyne arm about 24" long at around 30 degrees. Thx to corn
> wash for the suggestion about cork - it was easy to get the
> thermometer in.
>
> Results posted later. Along with more questions I'm sure.
>
> Sol.

i have found, and this will be old news to some, the lower the heat
and slower the drip the purer the spirit even with a pot still, other
input welcome

Harley,

It has been some time since you have posted.  I hope it is not due
to our exchanges on this forum.  I value your input as much as
anyone.  Our exchanged posts got a bit abrasive, I regret that.
However mine were not meant in any way to drive you off.  If I
offended you in any way, I hope you will accept my humble and
sincere apologies.  I look forward to your input on the many
subjects that are addressed here...

William.....

Slow is good on reflux,  I ran a batch today,  Barely boiling,
about enough heat to simmer a pot of Pintos.   #3 on the stove
top..  Got about 5 pints of really pure stuff off it.  Condenser
water changed about 3X during the Batch...   Im sold on slower is
better :oD

Wil

Ain't Yeast Ranching A Hoot!!!!

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash" <corn_wash@y...>
wrote:
> i have found, and this will be old news to some, the lower the
heat
> and slower the drip the purer the spirit even with a pot still,
other
> input welcome

Yes, I am a newbie.
My first introduction to distillation was the document that I
purchased about the Nixon/Stone "fractional distiallation" device.
It seems most people prefer the "reflux" distillation technique, but
I see no difference in the design of the two devices. Is the
difference in the technique used? It would seem that a person could
achieve the same results with the same device without the long time
period for equilibrium as specified for a "fractional" device.
A person would rather have a 4 hour distillation session than a 30
hour session. So is there any real difference between the "reflux
design" and the Nixon/Stone "fractional design"?
Thank you

slower to a dergree, say 400mL per hour. i consider it to be slow. the upper
limit for non industrialist i would say is around 800 mL / hour.

Wil <wbg_us@...> wrote:Slow is good on reflux,  I ran a batch today, 
Barely boiling,
about enough heat to simmer a pot of Pintos.   #3 on the stove
top..  Got about 5 pints of really pure stuff off it.  Condenser
water changed about 3X during the Batch...   Im sold on slower is
better :oD

Wil

Ain't Yeast Ranching A Hoot!!!!

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash" <corn_wash@y...>
wrote:
> i have found, and this will be old news to some, the lower the
heat
> and slower the drip the purer the spirit even with a pot still,
other
> input welcome


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I can be wrong I must say
Cheers, Alex...
A


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yo  Alex!!

Thanks again for a great design!!  (on subject)  Slow is good!!

That SR Design works great man,  No orange juice yet,  But 3 glasses
with Cranberry and Im about F***** out of my mind!!!  LOL  Gonna
save some for apple Liquer for Fam. and friends for X-mas,  Won't
they B surprised!!!!!!

Thanks again Alex for your advice and guidance....

Wil

Ain't Yeast Ranching A Hoot!!!

the 'fractional' still is better described as a compound still.   I
will use the term overhead condensor.

the real differences between them is how the different designs handle
and control reflux and product offtake.

The most basic overhead condensor still is much easier to set up and
operate.  The vapor leaves the boiler and enters the packed section,
then it is routed to the overhead condensor where it is cooled to a
liquid and the flow reverses as 'reflux' or 'reflow'.  All reflow
goes past a valved opening where you have positive control over the
rate of offtake. Any flow that is not drawn off is returned to the
packed section by gravity.

To set it up, you fill your boiler and apply heat.  Turn on the
coolant supply to the single condensor.  Close the offtake valve.
When the column reaches temperature, adjust the offtake valve to your
desired rate.  How simple is that?

Of course, there are modifications and variations to each basic still
design.

The reflux still has a boiler and a packed section also.  The
difference is that it achieves reflux by having these coolant thru
tubes that stick through the column at various places.

You fill your boiler and apply heat.  Then you turn on coolant to the
tubes that supposedly knock back the water content in the vapor and
allow the ethanol content to pass by.  The amount of reflux is
controled by a series of valves to the different Tubes.  Once the
vapor gets past the thru tubes, it flows to the down-turned product
condensor.  The main control methods over the unit is by controlling
heat input and coolant flow or both at the same time.  This one will
keep ya fiddling.

The overhead condensor still is much easier and simpler to operate.
It also delivers a higher purity product with less hassle.

The reflux still will deliver high purity product only if you are
right on top of the controls and operation.

this subject was discussed extensively only a few months back on this
forum and the distillers forum.   http://www.infoarchive.net/   this
webpage has both forums archived with an excellant search engine.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "schwarzenduder"
<schwarzenduder@y...> wrote:
> Yes, I am a newbie.
> My first introduction to distillation was the document that I
> purchased about the Nixon/Stone "fractional distiallation" device.
> It seems most people prefer the "reflux" distillation technique,
but
> I see no difference in the design of the two devices. Is the
> difference in the technique used? It would seem that a person could
> achieve the same results with the same device without the long time
> period for equilibrium as specified for a "fractional" device.
> A person would rather have a 4 hour distillation session than a 30
> hour session. So is there any real difference between the "reflux
> design" and the Nixon/Stone "fractional design"?
> Thank you

u r most welcome

Wil <wbg_us@...> wrote:Yo  Alex!!

Thanks again for a great design!!  (on subject)  Slow is good!!

That SR Design works great man,  No orange juice yet,  But 3 glasses
with Cranberry and Im about F***** out of my mind!!!  LOL  Gonna
save some for apple Liquer for Fam. and friends for X-mas,  Won't
they B surprised!!!!!!

Thanks again Alex for your advice and guidance....

Wil

Ain't Yeast Ranching A Hoot!!!



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I can be wrong I must say
Cheers, Alex...
A


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

schwarzenduder wrote:
Subject: [new_distillers] Ahoy Mates! Reflux or Fractional, What is the
difference in hardware.

Yes, I am a newbie.
My first introduction to distillation was the document that I
purchased about the Nixon/Stone "fractional distiallation" device.
It seems most people prefer the "reflux" distillation technique, but
I see no difference in the design of the two devices. Is the
difference in the technique used? It would seem that a person could
achieve the same results with the same device without the long time
period for equilibrium as specified for a "fractional" device.
A person would rather have a 4 hour distillation session than a 30
hour session. So is there any real difference between the "reflux
design" and the Nixon/Stone "fractional design"?
Thank you
================
Welcome!
A "reflux design" is a packed column, so let's call it a "reflux still" to
differentiate it from an unpacked lyne arm from a pot still.  The purity you
get depends directly on two things: the length of the column and the power
you use. What yeu get at the top is your product.
A "fractional" device, call it an "overhead condenser device" as Corn
suggests, or a "compound still" as I prefer ... as it is a reflux still with
a second still on top ... is a packed column with a condenser and separator
on top that returns all that arrives at the top back to the column for
reprocessing.  The repeated redistilling of what you get at the top of the
packed column purifies the product even more, so you get a cleaner product.
It's a matter of preference at the end of the day.  I always recommend
beginners to start off with a reflux still as it is so easy to make, and
then progress by adding a condenser and separator on top so they can judge
for themselves what they prefer.

Enjoy!
Mike N

Be careful with the high proof stuff.  Don't let the
idiots^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hyour friends get their hands on it.  There's
a good chance someone will get alcohol poisoning, or at least puke on
the rug.
I prefer to dilute down to around 100 proof before bottling.  It's
still got plenty of kick, but it's at the strength most people expect.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Wil" <wbg_us@y...> wrote:
> Stripped a wash last night and another this AM,  Making my first
> REAL reflux run with about 2 gallons of low wines diluted with H2O.
> After collecting 225ml of Foreshots and heads,  Started the hearts,
> So far 600ML of very clear Non smelly (Well it smells like ethanol)
> liquid,  I have been smelling/tasting it often off the back of a
> spoon and it has an almost unprecievable odor,  I tried a shot of
> pure a while ago,  No discernable flavor other than a distinct
> warming of the inside of my mouth, but from the mouth down all I
> could feel was HOT!  WOO HOO!! I think I may have the real thing
> here FINALLY!!
>
> One thing puzzles me,  I know everyone is different but the pure
> stuff has a little bit of a sweet smell,  is that normal??

Came across this web site that may be able to source botanicals for
those that are interested.
http://www.screamingseeds.com.au/welcome.html


Yours in Spirit


Robert






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi i just found were is the best plase to get a beer keg modfide?
how will i have to pay to have it down?
and what can i use to heat it i was planing to use wood?

  thank all from wisconsin

All I can say is Dazed&  Confused  But hang over free :o) this AM~~~


I think im still kinda drunk,  Went through about 1/2 pint of the
pure stuff last night(Like 6 shots)  Big deal!!   OL has been
laughing her ass off all morning @ me..

Oh Alex.  it works great in Cranberry Juice too!!  :oD


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
wrote:
> Be careful with the high proof stuff.  Don't let the
> idiots^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hyour friends get their hands on it.
There's
> a good chance someone will get alcohol poisoning, or at least puke
on
> the rug.
> I prefer to dilute down to around 100 proof before bottling.  It's
> still got plenty of kick, but it's at the strength most people
expect.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Wil" <wbg_us@y...> wrote:
> > Stripped a wash last night and another this AM,  Making my first
> > REAL reflux run with about 2 gallons of low wines diluted with
H2O.
> > After collecting 225ml of Foreshots and heads,  Started the
hearts,
> > So far 600ML of very clear Non smelly (Well it smells like
ethanol)
> > liquid,  I have been smelling/tasting it often off the back of a
> > spoon and it has an almost unprecievable odor,  I tried a shot
of
> > pure a while ago,  No discernable flavor other than a distinct
> > warming of the inside of my mouth, but from the mouth down all I
> > could feel was HOT!  WOO HOO!! I think I may have the real thing
> > here FINALLY!!
> >
> > One thing puzzles me,  I know everyone is different but the pure
> > stuff has a little bit of a sweet smell,  is that normal??

Ok, got my ss cooker happenin' last night with a water test - no
leaks anywhere. Finished up sealing my condenser and today my wash
is ready so I'm going for the real goods.

Thanks to all for the answers to my previous q's. Here's to well-
exercised elbows.

Sol.

Don't spend $1000 on a DVD Burner. Get our all-inclusive software right now and
within minutes you will be on  your way to copying any DVD video to a single,
standard CD. Get software now!! Free delivering!
http://www.geocities.com/elfrusramaantm

Ran a couple batches thru the cooker - yield seems to be almost
500ml per 3l batch. Worth it? YOU BET! Beautiful aroma, nice taste,
crystal clear, a little thick kinda like liquer, very nice indeed.

Today I run the rest and educate myself on storage and aging.

BTW, I read about putting salt in the wash just before cooking. Any
one tried this? With what results?

Sol.

When I was a kid, (well in my late teens) we used to get Everclear.
(thats 190 Proof grain to U guys Down Under)   It was so harsh you
could never drink a shot of the stuff straight...  Drinking my own
product is nothing like that.  Smooth as polished glass compared to
that,  Warming the mouth and burning the throat,  But in no way
harsh...  After sampling a bit over half a pint of reflux product
straight out of the condensor,  I have a few observations...


#1-Pure alcohol is not the rough, gaggy stuff that some liquors
are.  In fact it tastes pretty damn good..

#2-You have NO idea you drank too much till WAYYY Late!!  A little
DEFINATELY goes a long way!!  Try waking up @ 4AM in front of your
PC instead of in a warm bed where U should be!!

#3-The "Hangover" experience is a bit different,  U don't really
feel bad, just different.  Best way I can discribe it is "Helium
Head".

#4-Drinking your own made for $7 bucks a gallon is much more
rewarding than paying $20+ Bucks a Fifth for the gaggy stuff from
the local liquor store.

Got 2 new washes gurgling in the tub and have already started some
apple cinnimon and pear liquers.  Still got 2 16oz Bottles of pure
in the cubbard,  Life is Good!!