Yikes! How about supplies usable only for high alcohol content brews?

Also, Tony, How can I change this subscription to the "new distillers
digest"?

Thanks,
Esjay


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ackland, Tony (CALNZAS)" <Tony.Ackland@...>
To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 11:47 PM
Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Legal implications of ordering a still online.


> > Has anyone ever heard of the ATF knocking on people's doors after
> > getting a customer list from a still supplier?
>
> Yes, it happened several times last year.
>
> Tony
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
> FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

not likley, unless you ordered say 25 pounds of yeast a month,

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Johnson" <esjay@m...>
wrote:
> Yikes! How about supplies usable only for high alcohol content
brews?
>
> Also, Tony, How can I change this subscription to the "new
distillers
> digest"?
>
> Thanks,
> Esjay
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ackland, Tony (CALNZAS)" <Tony.Ackland@c...>
> To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 11:47 PM
> Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Legal implications of ordering a
still online.
>
>
> > > Has anyone ever heard of the ATF knocking on people's doors
after
> > > getting a customer list from a still supplier?
> >
> > Yes, it happened several times last year.
> >
> > Tony
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
> > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >

> Also, Tony, How can I change this subscription to the "new distillers
> digest"?

Change your subscriptions by sending a blank email to ...
new_Distillers-digest@yahoogroups.com - Daily Digest
new_Distillers-normal@yahoogroups.com - Individual messages
new_Distillers-nomail@yahoogroups.com - No email (good if going away on holiday)

Tony

i want to make a still and make my own liquor, where do i start

TRY DOING A BIT OF RESEARCH - THEN COME BACK AND ASK A FEW MORE SPECIFIC
QUESTIONS
http://homedistiller.org         is a good start


   i want to make a still and make my own liquor, where do i start


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about letting
it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes comes
from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look for.
Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird? Thanks

  Frank

You might first try a batch using malted barley from your local
homebrew store.  This has all the enzymes you'll need to convert the
starch in your corn to sugar.  6-row barley has more enzymes (someone
correct me if I'm wrong here.  I never can clearly remember if it's
2-row or 6-row).  The malted barley will make up something like 15 to
20% of your grains.  I've never tried malting my own corn.  Sounds
like a lot of trouble.
I think ALL types of corn contain starch, and therefore can be used to
make alcohol.  I think the reason for picking non-hybrid type is for
better flavor.  Some of the hybrids may actually have better alcohol
yield (more of the weight is in starch rather than husk or whatever
else).  I use an old breed called "yellow dent".  It has a good flavor
when eaten as corn-on-the-cob.  It also makes very good meal and
cornbread.

If you malt your own corn, you probably won't be able to have it
milled.  It will be too wet and will bog the mill.  The best bet here
is to use one of those hand powered sausage grinders that clamps onto
your countertop.  I've used one to crack dry corn.  It should work
even better on the softer wet corn.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
<headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about letting
> it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes comes
> from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
for.
> Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
Thanks
>
>  Frank

Hi,
I don't want to alarm you (there may be no need) but vinegar isn't
something you want to taste in your mash. You know how they make
vinegar? (well in the oldendays) let a wine,cider etc be infected
with a micro organisn called Mycoderma aceti basically it converts
alcohol into acetic acid...
  Don't panic at this stage I would let it fully ferment then taste
it again if there is a strong vinegar taste /smell you might have a
problem.
  I just went to taste my fermenting mash + mine tastes pretty bad
too.
good luck
  Jim


Chonder wrote:
> I been fermenting a batch of cornmeal/sugar/yeast/nutrients for 5
> days.  It started with an oeschlemeter reading of 80, and has
> successively dropped to now 45.  It still bubbles every second or
> so, and the pH is below 6, but it tastes very sweet/puky/and
> vinegary.  Am I on the right track?  This is my first ferment with
> anything but turbo/sugar and it behaved much differently.

Hi Steve,
  when I was building my still I picked up some used dirty copper
after trying everything vinegar soaks/ mechanical
attachments /nitric acid baths - I found I was never happy with it I
don't know how bad yours are but even after cleaning mine were still
dirty looking I ended up just looking harder for 2nd hand un-used
pipe
good luck though!

Jim




  "Steve" <gufty4@y...> wrote:
> I have just finished my first wash and as of yet have not started
a
> still. I have gathered some second hand 1.5 inch copper tube for
my
> first attempt. I was wondering if anyone new of an easy way to
clean
> out the green gunk from the inside. I would prefer a chemical
method
> as it seems to be quite tenacious.

I am better now.  I was at 22 deg C and went and put a heatpad and
blanket around the carbuoy.  Took it up to 28deg and that speeded
the yeast up considerably.  It sp gr. has dropped from 1045 to 1010
in the last 2 days, and it is getting a dryer, less vinegarry
taste.  Thanks to all.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "watertrade2003"
<james1@w...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I don't want to alarm you (there may be no need) but vinegar isn't
> something you want to taste in your mash. You know how they make
> vinegar? (well in the oldendays) let a wine,cider etc be infected
> with a micro organisn called Mycoderma aceti basically it converts
> alcohol into acetic acid...
>  Don't panic at this stage I would let it fully ferment then taste
> it again if there is a strong vinegar taste /smell you might have
a
> problem.
>  I just went to taste my fermenting mash + mine tastes pretty bad
> too.
> good luck
>  Jim
>
>
> Chonder wrote:
> > I been fermenting a batch of cornmeal/sugar/yeast/nutrients for
5
> > days.  It started with an oeschlemeter reading of 80, and has
> > successively dropped to now 45.  It still bubbles every second
or
> > so, and the pH is below 6, but it tastes very sweet/puky/and
> > vinegary.  Am I on the right track?  This is my first ferment
with
> > anything but turbo/sugar and it behaved much differently.

I don't know about the inside of the tubing, The Vinegar soak might
do the trick, but a new scotchbrite pad and a little elbo grease
does a dandy Job on copper pipe and fittings!!

Wil,

Ain't Yeast Ranching a Hoot!!

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "watertrade2003"
<james1@w...> wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>  when I was building my still I picked up some used dirty copper
> after trying everything vinegar soaks/ mechanical
> attachments /nitric acid baths - I found I was never happy with it
I
> don't know how bad yours are but even after cleaning mine were
still
> dirty looking I ended up just looking harder for 2nd hand un-used
> pipe
> good luck though!
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
>  "Steve" <gufty4@y...> wrote:
> > I have just finished my first wash and as of yet have not
started
> a
> > still. I have gathered some second hand 1.5 inch copper tube for
> my
> > first attempt. I was wondering if anyone new of an easy way to
> clean
> > out the green gunk from the inside. I would prefer a chemical
> method
> > as it seems to be quite tenacious.

PLACE CRACKED GRAIN INTO A COOKING POT, add 1/2 tsp. for each 3-5
gal,cook at 150F (no hotter) for 45min. to 1 hr. stir a few times
while cooking, the amylase will convert the starches to sugar for the
mash (wort) amylase can be purchased at most brew stores.

If I may throw in my two cents.  As I understand it malted corn would not have
enough enzyme to convert all of the starch present.  You would need to add
malted barley to get a good conversion. All corn has starch and produce about
the same % alcohol per bushel. The seed companies are now beginning to breed
high starch corn for the fuel alcohol plants. The % gain in alcohol is like 3%
more than regular corn. They are new and as yet not available

Try malting your own barley.  All you need is a refrigerator top, oven and a few
cooky sheets. Use the malt green and you don't even need the oven. It is fairly
easy and I have found a lot cheaper than buying pre-malted. I prefer the taste
and I think the enzyme % is stronger. Selection is limited by location. I get
mine from local farmers. Farmer will sell for pennies per pound or like $1.50
(US) a bushel. That's 3 cents a pound for 48 lbs or 22 Kg per bushel for barley.
And think they have a heck of a good deal

I malted some corn once and made beer.  I deeply regret not writing down the
recipe because it was some of the best beer I ever made.

Ludwig
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 06:08:54
From: "nanosleep" <nanosleep@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Cc:

>You might first try a batch using malted barley from your local
>homebrew store.  This has all the enzymes you'll need to convert the
>starch in your corn to sugar.  6-row barley has more enzymes (someone
>correct me if I'm wrong here.  I never can clearly remember if it's
>2-row or 6-row).  The malted barley will make up something like 15 to
>20% of your grains.  I've never tried malting my own corn.  Sounds
>like a lot of trouble.
>I think ALL types of corn contain starch, and therefore can be used to
>make alcohol.  I think the reason for picking non-hybrid type is for
>better flavor.  Some of the hybrids may actually have better alcohol
>yield (more of the weight is in starch rather than husk or whatever
>else).  I use an old breed called "yellow dent".  It has a good flavor
>when eaten as corn-on-the-cob.  It also makes very good meal and
>cornbread.
>
>If you malt your own corn, you probably won't be able to have it
>milled.  It will be too wet and will bog the mill.  The best bet here
>is to use one of those hand powered sausage grinders that clamps onto
>your countertop.  I've used one to crack dry corn.  It should work
>even better on the softer wet corn.
>
>
>--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
><headcavedin@y...> wrote:
>> Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about letting
>> it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes comes
>> from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
>for.
>> Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
>Thanks
>>
>>  Frank
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
>FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>



____________________________________________________________
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
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all the info. i have found states corn has 60-70% convertable starch
whitch is equal to about 6-7 pounds
of sugar that is convertable to alc. amylase will get all ths sugars
out ....................


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ludwig Kirsch"
<cannonfire54@l...> wrote:
> If I may throw in my two cents.  As I understand it malted corn
would not have enough enzyme to convert all of the starch present.
You would need to add malted barley to get a good conversion. All
corn has starch and produce about the same % alcohol per bushel. The
seed companies are now beginning to breed high starch corn for the
fuel alcohol plants. The % gain in alcohol is like 3% more than
regular corn. They are new and as yet not available
>
> Try malting your own barley.  All you need is a refrigerator top,
oven and a few cooky sheets. Use the malt green and you don't even
need the oven. It is fairly easy and I have found a lot cheaper than
buying pre-malted. I prefer the taste and I think the enzyme % is
stronger. Selection is limited by location. I get mine from local
farmers. Farmer will sell for pennies per pound or like $1.50 (US) a
bushel. That's 3 cents a pound for 48 lbs or 22 Kg per bushel for
barley. And think they have a heck of a good deal
>
> I malted some corn once and made beer.  I deeply regret not writing
down the recipe because it was some of the best beer I ever made.
>
> Ludwig
> --
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
>
> DATE: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 06:08:54
> From: "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Cc:
>
> >You might first try a batch using malted barley from your local
> >homebrew store.  This has all the enzymes you'll need to convert
the
> >starch in your corn to sugar.  6-row barley has more enzymes
(someone
> >correct me if I'm wrong here.  I never can clearly remember if it's
> >2-row or 6-row).  The malted barley will make up something like 15
to
> >20% of your grains.  I've never tried malting my own corn.  Sounds
> >like a lot of trouble.
> >I think ALL types of corn contain starch, and therefore can be
used to
> >make alcohol.  I think the reason for picking non-hybrid type is
for
> >better flavor.  Some of the hybrids may actually have better
alcohol
> >yield (more of the weight is in starch rather than husk or whatever
> >else).  I use an old breed called "yellow dent".  It has a good
flavor
> >when eaten as corn-on-the-cob.  It also makes very good meal and
> >cornbread.
> >
> >If you malt your own corn, you probably won't be able to have it
> >milled.  It will be too wet and will bog the mill.  The best bet
here
> >is to use one of those hand powered sausage grinders that clamps
onto
> >your countertop.  I've used one to crack dry corn.  It should work
> >even better on the softer wet corn.
> >
> >
> >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> ><headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> >> Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
letting
> >> it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
comes
> >> from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
> >for.
> >> Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
> >Thanks
> >>
> >>  Frank
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
> >FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos
Mail!
> http://login.mail.lycos.com/r/referral?aid=27005

that is 6-7 lbs sugar per 10 lbs. corn

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash" <corn_wash@y...>
wrote:
> all the info. i have found states corn has 60-70% convertable
starch
> whitch is equal to about 6-7 pounds
> of sugar that is convertable to alc. amylase will get all ths
sugars
> out ....................
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ludwig Kirsch"
> <cannonfire54@l...> wrote:
> > If I may throw in my two cents.  As I understand it malted corn
> would not have enough enzyme to convert all of the starch present.
> You would need to add malted barley to get a good conversion. All
> corn has starch and produce about the same % alcohol per bushel.
The
> seed companies are now beginning to breed high starch corn for the
> fuel alcohol plants. The % gain in alcohol is like 3% more than
> regular corn. They are new and as yet not available
> >
> > Try malting your own barley.  All you need is a refrigerator top,
> oven and a few cooky sheets. Use the malt green and you don't even
> need the oven. It is fairly easy and I have found a lot cheaper
than
> buying pre-malted. I prefer the taste and I think the enzyme % is
> stronger. Selection is limited by location. I get mine from local
> farmers. Farmer will sell for pennies per pound or like $1.50 (US)
a
> bushel. That's 3 cents a pound for 48 lbs or 22 Kg per bushel for
> barley. And think they have a heck of a good deal
> >
> > I malted some corn once and made beer.  I deeply regret not
writing
> down the recipe because it was some of the best beer I ever made.
> >
> > Ludwig
> > --
> >
> > --------- Original Message ---------
> >
> > DATE: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 06:08:54
> > From: "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
> > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> > Cc:
> >
> > >You might first try a batch using malted barley from your local
> > >homebrew store.  This has all the enzymes you'll need to convert
> the
> > >starch in your corn to sugar.  6-row barley has more enzymes
> (someone
> > >correct me if I'm wrong here.  I never can clearly remember if
it's
> > >2-row or 6-row).  The malted barley will make up something like
15
> to
> > >20% of your grains.  I've never tried malting my own corn.
Sounds
> > >like a lot of trouble.
> > >I think ALL types of corn contain starch, and therefore can be
> used to
> > >make alcohol.  I think the reason for picking non-hybrid type is
> for
> > >better flavor.  Some of the hybrids may actually have better
> alcohol
> > >yield (more of the weight is in starch rather than husk or
whatever
> > >else).  I use an old breed called "yellow dent".  It has a good
> flavor
> > >when eaten as corn-on-the-cob.  It also makes very good meal and
> > >cornbread.
> > >
> > >If you malt your own corn, you probably won't be able to have it
> > >milled.  It will be too wet and will bog the mill.  The best bet
> here
> > >is to use one of those hand powered sausage grinders that clamps
> onto
> > >your countertop.  I've used one to crack dry corn.  It should
work
> > >even better on the softer wet corn.
> > >
> > >
> > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> > ><headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> > >> Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
> letting
> > >> it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
> comes
> > >> from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
> > >for.
> > >> Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
> > >Thanks
> > >>
> > >>  Frank
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
> > >FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos
> Mail!
> > http://login.mail.lycos.com/r/referral?aid=27005

On my 2" pipe, I ziptied a couple of stainless steel scrubbers(or
other abrasive) to a dowel rod and it's just like cleaning a gun
barrel.  The vinegar soak and some of the vinegar/salt/baking soda
paste does okay for me.  There are commercial copper cleaning
chemicals in the housewares section of the grocery usually, it does
a good job, but rinse well.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <gufty4@y...> wrote:
> I have just finished my first wash and as of yet have not started
a
> still. I have gathered some second hand 1.5 inch copper tube for
my
> first attempt. I was wondering if anyone new of an easy way to
clean
> out the green gunk from the inside. I would prefer a chemical
method
> as it seems to be quite tenacious.

All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant info. I
don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying something
diffrent, ya know? Thanks again

Frank



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
<headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about letting
> it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes comes
> from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
for.
> Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
Thanks
>
>  Frank

Do you folk have any special way of cleaning your scrubber pads? I
use Copper pads and boil them for a time with a little Bleach. Then I
rinse really well. My column and pot I take to the car wash with me.

  Frank

I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me add
my two cents in here.

I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from the
brew shop) in the follwing ratio:

8 lbs corn
3 lbs barley
3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)

You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out - I
boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans.  Then you bring the temp
down to 150F and add the barley.  Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
(this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the liquid
off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
fermentor.  You can also brew on the grains and drain before
distilling.

I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast (Red
Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk fermentation,
I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.

Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak.  The stuff I
put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.

Hope this helps.  I am in the process of brewing up some scotch using
all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row.  I can't wait to
see how this turns out after oaking.

flaming_pinto


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
<headcavedin@y...> wrote:
>
> All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant info.
I
> don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying something
> diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
>
> Frank
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
letting
> > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
comes
> > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
> for.
> > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
> Thanks
> >
> >  Frank

I shove mine down over the dish prongs in the dish washer and hold
them in place with rubber bands,  then just wash them as usual.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
<headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> Do you folk have any special way of cleaning your scrubber pads? I
> use Copper pads and boil them for a time with a little Bleach.
Then I
> rinse really well. My column and pot I take to the car wash with
me.
>
>  Frank

I tried the vinagar trick without any luck and I dont look to kindly
on the elbo grees method. Last night i soaked a test pice in CLR a
standard kitchen cleaner. Within an hour all the green and black crud
was gone. the stuff worked wonders. I hope others find this usfull.

FYI, the amylase you buy in the brew supply shops as a powder is made
to clear the starch-haze out of a beer wash during fermentation.  By
itself it does a very poor job of converting starches during a
mashing phase because it only attacks the short-chain sections of the
starch and can't break the bonds to get at the rest of the molecule.
Your best bet is to use some 6-row barley, as it contains plenty of
the right kind of amylase to fully convert the corn sugars.  You
could add some of the powdered enzyme as extra insurance if you like.

A few pounds of 6-row barley at the brew-supply shop will only cost
you a dollar or two more than buying the powdered enzyme but will
make a world of difference in the finished product.  Make sure you
have the barley cracked before bring it home.

Flaming_pinto



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash" <corn_wash@y...>
wrote:
> PLACE CRACKED GRAIN INTO A COOKING POT, add 1/2 tsp. for each 3-5
> gal,cook at 150F (no hotter) for 45min. to 1 hr. stir a few times
> while cooking, the amylase will convert the starches to sugar for
the
> mash (wort) amylase can be purchased at most brew stores.

hi all i got my top part of my still done now i need is the cook
boiler. were the best way to get one for free or some thing that
affordable not out stght in eather copper staneless steel and holds
15 to 25 gal's
  thans for any help
  some were in s.e. wisconsin

Start shopping ebay for a 15.5 Gal SS Beer keg...

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Shannon and michael"
<mandm60033@y...> wrote:
> hi all i got my top part of my still done now i need is the cook
> boiler. were the best way to get one for free or some thing that
> affordable not out stght in eather copper staneless steel and
holds
> 15 to 25 gal's
>  thans for any help
>  some were in s.e. wisconsin

For full conversion you need alpha-amylase, beta-amylase and gluco-
amylase. Malted barley might not have the gluco-amylase which is
added to get a dry beer and remove unconverted starches. Correct me
if I am wrong.
Wal
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
<flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
> FYI, the amylase you buy in the brew supply shops as a powder is
made
> to clear the starch-haze out of a beer wash during fermentation.
By
> itself it does a very poor job of converting starches during a
> mashing phase because it only attacks the short-chain sections of
the
> starch and can't break the bonds to get at the rest of the
molecule.
> Your best bet is to use some 6-row barley, as it contains plenty of
> the right kind of amylase to fully convert the corn sugars.  You
> could add some of the powdered enzyme as extra insurance if you
like.
>
> A few pounds of 6-row barley at the brew-supply shop will only cost
> you a dollar or two more than buying the powdered enzyme but will
> make a world of difference in the finished product.  Make sure you
> have the barley cracked before bring it home.
>
> Flaming_pinto
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash" <corn_wash@y...>
> wrote:
> > PLACE CRACKED GRAIN INTO A COOKING POT, add 1/2 tsp. for each 3-5
> > gal,cook at 150F (no hotter) for 45min. to 1 hr. stir a few times
> > while cooking, the amylase will convert the starches to sugar for
> the
> > mash (wort) amylase can be purchased at most brew stores.

Wal,
you are probably correct, all I know is that for our purposes, good
old malted barley is all the bourbon brewers or Kentucky and
Tennessee have needed to convert their cracked corn.  Most of them
don't malt their corn because the malted barley does a good enough
job without going to the trouble of malting all that corn.

Flaming_pinto


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@h...> wrote:
> For full conversion you need alpha-amylase, beta-amylase and gluco-
> amylase. Malted barley might not have the gluco-amylase which is
> added to get a dry beer and remove unconverted starches. Correct me
> if I am wrong.
> Wal
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
> <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
> > FYI, the amylase you buy in the brew supply shops as a powder is
> made
> > to clear the starch-haze out of a beer wash during fermentation.
> By
> > itself it does a very poor job of converting starches during a
> > mashing phase because it only attacks the short-chain sections of
> the
> > starch and can't break the bonds to get at the rest of the
> molecule.
> > Your best bet is to use some 6-row barley, as it contains plenty
of
> > the right kind of amylase to fully convert the corn sugars.  You
> > could add some of the powdered enzyme as extra insurance if you
> like.
> >
> > A few pounds of 6-row barley at the brew-supply shop will only
cost
> > you a dollar or two more than buying the powdered enzyme but will
> > make a world of difference in the finished product.  Make sure
you
> > have the barley cracked before bring it home.
> >
> > Flaming_pinto
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash"
<corn_wash@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > PLACE CRACKED GRAIN INTO A COOKING POT, add 1/2 tsp. for each 3-
5
> > > gal,cook at 150F (no hotter) for 45min. to 1 hr. stir a few
times
> > > while cooking, the amylase will convert the starches to sugar
for
> > the
> > > mash (wort) amylase can be purchased at most brew stores.

I am probably wrong. Malted barley contains alpha-amylase, beta-
amylase and beta-glucanase. It appears beta-glucanase (optimum temp.
45-50C) removes gum-like beta-glucans. It appears you can get
complete conversion with malted barley which can be tested -
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/ch14.html

Glucoamylase enzyme is made by the Aspergillus mould.

Wal
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
<flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
> Wal,
> you are probably correct, all I know is that for our purposes, good
> old malted barley is all the bourbon brewers or Kentucky and
> Tennessee have needed to convert their cracked corn.  Most of them
> don't malt their corn because the malted barley does a good enough
> job without going to the trouble of malting all that corn.
>
> Flaming_pinto
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@h...>
wrote:
> > For full conversion you need alpha-amylase, beta-amylase and
gluco-
> > amylase. Malted barley might not have the gluco-amylase which is
> > added to get a dry beer and remove unconverted starches. Correct
me
> > if I am wrong.
> > Wal
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
> > <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
> > > FYI, the amylase you buy in the brew supply shops as a powder
is
> > made
> > > to clear the starch-haze out of a beer wash during
fermentation.
> > By
> > > itself it does a very poor job of converting starches during a
> > > mashing phase because it only attacks the short-chain sections
of
> > the
> > > starch and can't break the bonds to get at the rest of the
> > molecule.
> > > Your best bet is to use some 6-row barley, as it contains
plenty
> of
> > > the right kind of amylase to fully convert the corn sugars.
You
> > > could add some of the powdered enzyme as extra insurance if you
> > like.
> > >
> > > A few pounds of 6-row barley at the brew-supply shop will only
> cost
> > > you a dollar or two more than buying the powdered enzyme but
will
> > > make a world of difference in the finished product.  Make sure
> you
> > > have the barley cracked before bring it home.
> > >
> > > Flaming_pinto
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash"
> <corn_wash@y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > PLACE CRACKED GRAIN INTO A COOKING POT, add 1/2 tsp. for each
3-
> 5
> > > > gal,cook at 150F (no hotter) for 45min. to 1 hr. stir a few
> times
> > > > while cooking, the amylase will convert the starches to sugar
> for
> > > the
> > > > mash (wort) amylase can be purchased at most brew stores.

I use stainless and I just throw them in the dishwasher (top rack).

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
<headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> Do you folk have any special way of cleaning your scrubber pads? I
> use Copper pads and boil them for a time with a little Bleach. Then I
> rinse really well. My column and pot I take to the car wash with me.
>
>  Frank

This is almost identical to my procedure except I don't add sugar and
I ferment and distill on the grain.
I've had a few failed batches when I used only amalyse powdered
enzymes from the local homebrew store.  I don't know whether the
amalyse powder wasn't a proper mixture of the different types of
enzymes, or if it was just dead.  I don't think many people buy the
powdered enzymes so who knows how long it has been sitting on the
shelf.  I have had good luck when using malted barley for the enzyme
action.
I usually cook my corn longer than 1 hour (at almost boiling).  I've
used both cracked corn and fine meal.  The meal takes less cooking and
has better yield, but you can't strain it and you must ferment and
distill on the grain. My boiler has electric elements and I haven't
(as of yet) had any problems scorching a corn wash.  I use extra water
to help prevent this.

The only trouble I've had with scorching is with a pears.  I ran some
pears through the sausage grinder and then fermented and distilled.  I
think the wash was thick enough that it wasn't 'self stirring' when
heated, and the pear flesh seemed to be acting as an insulator.  A bad
combination.



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
<flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
> I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me
add
> my two cents in here.
>
> I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
the
> brew shop) in the follwing ratio:
>
> 8 lbs corn
> 3 lbs barley
> 3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)
>
> You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out - I
> boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans.  Then you bring the temp
> down to 150F and add the barley.  Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
> (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the liquid
> off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
> fermentor.  You can also brew on the grains and drain before
> distilling.
>
> I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
> molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast (Red
> Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk
fermentation,
> I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.
>
> Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak.  The stuff
I
> put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.
>
> Hope this helps.  I am in the process of brewing up some scotch
using
> all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row.  I can't wait
to
> see how this turns out after oaking.
>
> flaming_pinto
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> >
> > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant
info.
> I
> > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying
something
> > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
> > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
> > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
> letting
> > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
> comes
> > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
> > for.
> > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
> > Thanks
> > >
> > >  Frank

for instance regular, 3 row and 6 row,