>I do have another boiler also,this is used for preserving at home
>(fruit,sauces ect) and I have yet to talk the wife into letting me
>use it.
>Here in Australia it is sold under the brand name "VACOLA".
>It is about 30litres(6.5imp gals)in size and would be ideal for the
>next still I build. The heater is 1800w and has a large thermostat to
>control the heat.The only problem with it is it has an alluminium lid
>and I will have to get a s/steel one made up and that will cost quite
>a few bucks.
I've just built my new one on a Vacola. I'm using the original lid at this
stage. It only presses on, but with a strip of cotton rag between the pot
and the lid it seals reasonably (not totally) well. Nice too to have the
tap on the side to help drain it once finished.
Tony
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: scottvines@... [mailto:scottvines@...]
Verzonden: dinsdag 13 februari 2001 6:52
Aan: Rob van Leuven
Onderwerp: FW: [new_distillers] Re: stone/nixon v. stillmaker
Rob,
I built a Nixon/Stone still that uses a Liebig condenser (3/4" jacket
with 1/2" pass-through tubing). It screws onto the column and turns
out at about a 45-degree angle from vertical. I use inexpensive PTFE
thread tape to help seal the connection and to keep the angle of the
take-off valve at full vertical. It does not leak.
I like my still because it's open to the atmosphere, and I lightly
plug it with clean cotton to keep the lightest of vapors from
escaping. The benefits of this design are easy construction and
cleaning, and inherent safety. However, like everything in life,
there are some negatives. It is tall (almost eight feet), and it
wants to tip over if you use a pot with a relatively small diameter.
My pot is narrow, so I've had to stabilize my still with a wire
contraption until I can build a more permanent structure (i.e. wood
frame) or find a bigger pot. If you used a shorter condenser than
mine (mine is overkill), balance probably wouldn't be an issue.
Just thought you might like to know how I built my still. When you
get your new still built, please don't forget to post a description
at this site. I'm very interested in what you might be doing to
improve your Nixon/Stone design.
Regards,
Scott
Hi Scott,
very interesting; could you post some pics??? I'd like to know the length of
your condenser; my still has a 300 mm. long 28 mm. diam. coil condenser
(coil made out of 5 mm. soft copper break pipe), the cooling water has a lot
of trouble getting through, so I'm looking for a better alternative.
The improvement in the n/s still is actually in their latest book; it's
basically the "in-line" version. Nevertheless, there is always room for
improvement.
regards,
Rob
i am just starting out and i am going to have ago at
converting a 9lt ss fire extinguisher to a column
still.
Dimensions of fire extinguisher are approx. - 170mm
dia x 500mm high
threaded opening at top is about 30mm inside dia.
1. Will this be suitable for conversion to a reflux
still
2. What size column should i be looking at fitting to
the top.
3. Will the column work if it is wider than the base
opening of, in this case 30mm, say 60 or 100mm.
anyones thoughts appreciated
john
____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
Hello I'm back, I'm still looking for a good immersion or insert heater, that
dos'nt cost a arm and leg. I read all the post starting at the first of last
year when this site first started, and found only one posting about immersion
type heaters,but haven't heard about where to get them. I gave a industrial
heater under the brand name cromolox the acid test to see if it would stand up
to a acid base, I used hydrochoric acid to test it with, first it turned black,
then it leached down to a copper coating and the leaching process stopped.I
supose this kind of test is pretty harsh to test with, but I just don't want any
surprises later on.how does Incloy stand up? Does it stand up well to acid
conditions? If it does where can I buy one here in states? and how much do they
cost? Woud like to get a s.s. screw in insert heater, but don't where to get one
or how much they cost. Thanks George.
George,try an electro plating equipment supplier that is close to you.They
have all types of screw in heaters for the plating tanks in all kinds of
material.Regards Ken.
----- Original Message -----
From: <goldenshine65802@...>
To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 18 February 2001 15:23
Subject: [new_distillers] Screw in immersion heater
> Hello I'm back, I'm still looking for a good immersion or insert heater,
that dos'nt cost a arm and leg. I read all the post starting at the first of
last year when this site first started, and found only one posting about
immersion type heaters,but haven't heard about where to get them. I gave a
industrial heater under the brand name cromolox the acid test to see if it
would stand up to a acid base, I used hydrochoric acid to test it with,
first it turned black, then it leached down to a copper coating and the
leaching process stopped.I supose this kind of test is pretty harsh to test
with, but I just don't want any surprises later on.how does Incloy stand up?
Does it stand up well to acid conditions? If it does where can I buy one
here in states? and how much do they cost? Woud like to get a s.s. screw in
insert heater, but don't where to get one or how much they cost. Thanks
George.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>
>
I live far from the cities and need to buy goods by the bulk. You
can't go anytime anywhere and buy what you please, most items apart
from food must be ordered in. Therefore I am asking if anyone would
know where in North America can I buy activated charcoal in
quantities of 10 to 20Kg. I can get it from sites on the internet
but
they are located in New Zealand and Australia They are expensive and
are only available in 100, 200, and 1Kg size. If anyone out there is
using something very reasonable and great results please let me know.
Thank you!
Hello,
The brew haus in Canado has charcoal through mail order, but I don't
know what kind of quantities they have.
www.brewhaus.com
They sell distillation specific supplies.
Good Luck,
Tim
Go to "Calgon Carbon Corporation!" You should have no problem finding what
you need there.
>From: flo-moe@...
>Reply-To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [new_distillers] Charcoal
>Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:26:07 -0000
>
>I live far from the cities and need to buy goods by the bulk. You
>can't go anytime anywhere and buy what you please, most items apart
>from food must be ordered in. Therefore I am asking if anyone would
>know where in North America can I buy activated charcoal in
>quantities of 10 to 20Kg. I can get it from sites on the internet
>but
>they are located in New Zealand and Australia They are expensive and
>are only available in 100, 200, and 1Kg size. If anyone out there is
>using something very reasonable and great results please let me know.
>Thank you!
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Hello,
I've been working on converting my stillmaster to a stone/nixon/type
still.
My cieling hight is limited so I've come up with a possible
solution. I though you guys (and gals) might be interested.
I made two concensers out of 1/2" tube (inner) and 3/4" tube
(outer). One condenser is 12" long and the other is 24" long.
I connected them to eachother with elbows and a screw-together
joint. I will connect them to the still with a screw-together
connecter. I am using the connectors that allow you to tighten the
joint at any angle for ease-of-assembly.
Anyway... What I wound up with is similar to an accordian. The two
consensers are at about a 45 degree angle from the ground. see
diagram:
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
\
\ __
\||
||
||
||
||
These angles are not as sharp as mine but you get the idea (mine is
shorter). The end result is nice. Being as the 12 inch condenser
hangs to one side and the 24" condenser can hang mostly on the other
side I can balance the condensers so that they don't try to tip the
still over. I also balanced them from front to back so they are
equal distance from the center of the column.
This overcomes the top-heavy nature of the typical design and makes
the still relatively stable, even full of colling water.
Another result (and my main intention) is that I can make it stable
without making the condenser go straight up, therefore decreasing the
overall height of the still.
Another advantage is that I can adjust the angles in case I move to a
house with bigger (or smaller) cielings.
I'll let you know how it works when I get the rest of the pieces.
Happy distilling,
Tim
Hello,
As I told you I am working on converting a stillmaster to a
stone/nixon-type still.
What kind of valve can I use? What kind of material should it be?
(stainless, copper, brass(!?!)), and finally where can I find one?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tim
The one I'm thinking of using next is here
http://www.blackwoods.co.nz/product_details.asp?part_no=00057341
Although it's only rated up to 90C I can't see it being a problem.
--- In new_distillers@y..., MtrcyclMon@a... wrote:
> Hello,
>
> As I told you I am working on converting a stillmaster to a
> stone/nixon-type still.
>
> What kind of valve can I use? What kind of material should it be?
> (stainless, copper, brass(!?!)), and finally where can I find one?
>
>
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
hi folks ive got my nixon stone column made all i need is the needle
valves, does anyone know where i can get them in the uk or
ireland...many thanks.....maurice.
I just finished my first run through my new all stainless steel
reflux still. The spirits was a very very clean 95+%. The boiler is a
10 gallon tank and the reflux column is 2" ID and 48" tall with
stainless steel pot scrubbers. I have two 2000W elements for fast
heat up. When the wash is up to temperature I can cut off one of the
element and can regulate the wattage on the second element to
maintain the correct temperature in the reflux column. This is my
second still and they work well. If you would like to see my first
still look on Tony Web site. ( Homer's Still )
Good Luck
Homer
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Can someone please tell me why the photos I posted or so large photos.
Homer
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
hi folks ive got my nixon stone column made all i need is the needle valves, does anyone know where i can get them in the uk or ireland...many thanks.....maurice.
Great site,....
Just curious about a few things,
I ran across this one tea kettle still,
http://www.dangerouslaboratories.org/moon1.html
if I use a 2qt tea kettle, how much of a run would I get before it's done & time
to re-fill?
Ok folks. I've got a wierd one for you. After running 4 batches
completely successfully with 90+% and no off colors or flavors, I ran
a batch yesterday. I collect my distillate in 1/2L batches and keep
them separate until I'm sure they are not contaminated with fusels.
At the end of the run, my last 1/2L looked slightly blue. I let it
sit and by today it is definately a light shade of blue and what's
more, all the rest of my distillate is too. The early distillate is
very light while the later is darker. After letting it sit, there
seems to be a sedimentary cloudiness collecting around the edge and
bottom of the glasses. Can anyone tell me what might be up? I have
done nothing to the still since my last batch (which was fine) except
to backflush it thoroughly with water.
I'm not going to touch it until I know i haven't invented a new
molecular form of cyanide. Thanks in advance to all the wise men (and
women) out there who know more than me.
- chris
Roy,
Thanks for the information on the web site.
I got a brass valve and did what they said to get the lead out. It
seems to have worked as the valve is now a pretty gold color.
The oxidation is a pain to remove though, so if anyone tries this, be
sure to not let the valve soak for to long.
-Tim
--- In new_distillers@y..., roy.g@i... wrote:
> If you're worried about using brass in your still go to the
following
> pages and have a read
> http://www.brewinfo.com/mybrewery97/mybrewery3.html
> http://www.geocities.com/kiwi_distiller/materials.htm
>
> --- In new_distillers@y..., MtrcyclMon@a... wrote:
> > The valve you mention is brass.
> >
> > Is brass okay to use??
> >
> > If so I can find them at the local hardware store.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tim
Hi Chris
Go to the Distillers group and search for these previous posts on the
subject 1314, 1315, 1316 and 1317
Regards
Roy
--- In new_distillers@y..., cummingsc@h... wrote:
> Ok folks. I've got a wierd one for you. After running 4 batches
> completely successfully with 90+% and no off colors or flavors, I
ran
> a batch yesterday. I collect my distillate in 1/2L batches and keep
> them separate until I'm sure they are not contaminated with fusels.
> At the end of the run, my last 1/2L looked slightly blue. I let it
> sit and by today it is definately a light shade of blue and what's
> more, all the rest of my distillate is too. The early distillate is
> very light while the later is darker. After letting it sit, there
> seems to be a sedimentary cloudiness collecting around the edge and
> bottom of the glasses. Can anyone tell me what might be up? I have
> done nothing to the still since my last batch (which was fine)
except
> to backflush it thoroughly with water.
>
> I'm not going to touch it until I know i haven't invented a new
> molecular form of cyanide. Thanks in advance to all the wise men
(and
> women) out there who know more than me.
>
> - chris
Hey there Tony
A couple of weeks ago you stated that you have built a
still attached to a Vacola boiler.
I have done now done the same and have a problem with it.
The top of the still is made on the same style as my first still(the
pics of it are in a previous post) and the problem I have is
controling the temp of the boiler.It seems to be too erratic on the
temp control.(the tower temp is up and down like a yoyo!) Do you use
the thermostat on the Vacola to control the boiler temp, or have you
a triac controller to do this? If so,have you made it yourself or
have you used one from another appliance.
I would appreciate any info you can supply regarding this problem
with the Vacola boiler.Do you have pics of your still?
Regards Jack
What or how is the best way to install a immersion
heating element into my 15L Stainless steel Stock
Pot??
I dont know where to start...HELP!!!
Many thanks Louie
_____________________________________________________________________________
http://invites.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Invites
- Organise your Mardi Gras party online!
Louie,
What sort of element have you got?
Is it one with a screw in boss ie. with rubber gasket and flange outside
boss and closest to wiring (connection)
and screws in from outside?,________
or is it one that has flange and gasket closest to element end which is
inserted from inside the pot and has a socket type nut that is screwed onto
the boss from outside and tightened up to bring the flange and gasket on the
inside hard up against the inside wall to create a seal ?
B.r., David
-----Original Message-----
From: Louie Belle <falconqueen@...>
To: new distiller <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, March 01, 2001 2:39 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] installing heating element
>What or how is the best way to install a immersion
>heating element into my 15L Stainless steel Stock
>Pot??
>
>I dont know where to start...HELP!!!
>
>Many thanks Louie
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
__
>http://invites.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Invites
>- Organise your Mardi Gras party online!
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>