Skip to search.

Breaking News Visit Yahoo! News for the latest.

×Close this window

new_distillers · A discussion and information sharing list for new distillers. Especially suited to people new to home distilling of alcohol.

The Yahoo! Groups Product Blog

Check it out!

Group Information

  • Members: 5270
  • Category: Food and Drink
  • Founded: Mar 20, 2000
  • Language: English
? Already a member? Sign in to Yahoo!

Yahoo! Groups Tips

Did you know...
Hear how Yahoo! Groups has changed the lives of others. Take me there.

Messages

Advanced
Messages Help
Messages 43319 - 43348 of 43820   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Messages: Show Message Summaries Sort by Date ^  
#43319 From: Fredrick Lee <fredrick@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:09 am
Subject: Re: Grain Cokking Temp
AreoSpike
Send Email Send Email
 
The reason there are different temperatures for mashing grains is because, along with pH, each temperature range activates different enzymes. 

image.jpeg


If your grain has more starch or proteins you adjust the temp and pH accordingly, so you can extract more sugars. 


Remember that these enzymes will work at these temps only until they are denatured (this starts at about 75°C or 168°F). Once this occurs, you cannot turn the starches or proteins into sugar, and you're just wasting grains. 

Maltsters will typically provide a data sheet with the malt that you buy that will tell you how much protein, starch, distatic power, and many other characteristics of the grains. These numbers aren't fixed per se, and reading the sheet can tell you lots about your end flavor. 


This link should get you started with the malt sheet:


If your malt didn't come with one, ask for it. Malt we buy has a sheet stapled to each bag, or at least one for the pallet. You can also always look up the lot number and look online. If you don't know where your grain came from, you can spend about $125USD and have it analyzed in a lab. 



On Feb 18, 2013, at 4:42 PM, "last2blast" <last2blast@...> wrote:

 

What is the perfect temp to cook each grain or is there just one temp that will do for all grains.

I ask because I have seen many different temps listed.

Robert


#43320 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 3:41 pm
Subject: Re: distilling
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Alex,

Ok, if 1 cup is 8 fluid ounces (8 ounces of water) and the density of table sugar (sucrose) is 1.59, then 7 cups of sugar is (8)(1.59)(7)=~89 ounces, or 5 pounds 9 ounces of sugar (~5.56 lbs). 26 cups of water is (26)(8)=208 ounces or 1 gallon 2.5 quarts (1.63 gals), which is a bit more than the 4 liters of solution you say. So let's look at both amounts of water.

Guessing that mixing 5.56 lbs sugar with 1.63 gals will give a total volume of (very) roughly 2 gals, that's (5.56)/(1.63)=3.41 lbs/gal of sucrose/water. To look at that solution on brewer's terms, let's look at the density of that solution, which is how brewers predict what a fermentation will produce andhow it will behave. Since the numbers we all use for density are grams per milliliter (same as kilograms per liter) (5.56 lbs)/(2.2)=2.53kg of sugar. (1.63 gals water)(3.78 liters per gallon)=6.16 liters of water, which by definition weighs 6.16kg.

When we add the sugar to the water, we get 2.53 + 6.16 =  8.69kg total solution, which has a volume I guessed to be 2 gallons or (2 gals)(3.78 liters per gallon)=7.56 liters

The density will then be (again, very roughly) (8.69kg)(7.56 L)=1.15 kg/L, which is WAY on the high end of sugar concentration, right out at the bitter end of what a turbo yeast can do. At that, everything will have to be perfect for the ferment to work,and with the high-gravity strain on the yeast, it'll probably taste bad. Andtotal volume of  that's figuring my 2 gallons (7.56 liters) instead of the "bit more than 4 liters" that you either already have are are planning to have. Your 4 liters would put the density way off the charts, simply exploding the yeast cells by osmotic pressure right at the start.

To make your recipe work, either double the volume of the wash ot halve the amount of sugar.

I have no way of knowing what your tubing is made of, but what's really important for distillation is that the tubing is resistant to high-concentration high-temperature ethanol. What normally happens is that the hot ethanol leeches out the plasticizer in the tube (and puts it in your liquor) so you get bad tastes, questionable food safety, and brittle tubing. I know because I did it once.

Normally, brewers would use some combination of a table and a hydrometer to design a sugar wash. Even if you can't locate a hydrometer, here's a table from my book that will let you predict what's going to happen.
http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/GuideToWashNumbers.pdf

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits


<br>--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Regal Silva <regalsilva@...> wrote:<br>><br>> (A) My first try at distilling is using formula  7 cups white sugar, 26 cups water, 24  grams  baker's instant dry yeast  = to  4 lit. mash<br>> <br>> (B) During distillation stage of mash (4 lit) is it safe to use heat resistant  plastic hose to connect from distilling kettle to copper cooling coil.<br>>       My old Volkswagon car engine is fitted with this heat tolerating plastic tube & freely available in the market.   <br>>      Also for ease of handling, I prefer plastic hose -  more flexible arrangement than  copper tube.<br>> <br>> <br>> (C) In this 3rd world country access to correct information, equipment, ingredients are very hard to come by.   So look forward to your good advice.<br>> <br>> Alex<br>><br>

#43321 From: RLB <last2blast@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:18 am
Subject: Re: distilling
last2blast
Send Email Send Email
 
7 cups of sugar to a gal of water "0.0", wow! I thought 5 cups was a lot (2.4 cups of sugar equals a pound). You might have unused sugar in your wash.

I used 5 grams of of yeast in 5 gals wash. Yeast was placed in a cup of wash and allowed to grow as it was stirred.  Even 24 g of bakers yeast is to much.  Next time, place place 1 tbsp (7 g) of bakers yeast in a large cup of wash and let yeast grow before pitching.  I made all of the same mistakes that you just described.

Robert



From: Regal Silva <regalsilva@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 11:47 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] distilling

 
(A) My first try at distilling is using formula  7 cups white sugar, 26 cups water, 24  grams  baker's instant dry yeast  = to  4 lit. mash

(B) During distillation stage of mash (4 lit) is it safe to use heat resistant  plastic hose to connect from distilling kettle to copper cooling coil.
      My old Volkswagon car engine is fitted with this heat tolerating plastic tube & freely available in the market.   
     Also for ease of handling, I prefer plastic hose -  more flexible arrangement than  copper tube.

(C) In this 3rd world country access to correct information, equipment, ingredients are very hard to come by.   So look forward to your good advice.

Alex



#43322 From: RLB <last2blast@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:58 am
Subject: Re: Grain Cokking Temp
last2blast
Send Email Send Email
 
Looks like 165 F is the max temp. for amylase and start out with a higher pH 8.5 then return it to 5.7.  Thanks for the info.

Robert



From: Fredrick Lee <fredrick@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 1:09 AM
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Grain Cokking Temp

The reason there are different temperatures for mashing grains is because, along with pH, each temperature range activates different enzymes. 

image.jpeg


If your grain has more starch or proteins you adjust the temp and pH accordingly, so you can extract more sugars. 

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/images/b/be/PH_and_temp_enzyme_matrix.jpg

Remember that these enzymes will work at these temps only until they are denatured (this starts at about 75C or 168F). Once this occurs, you cannot turn the starches or proteins into sugar, and you're just wasting grains. 

Maltsters will typically provide a data sheet with the malt that you buy that will tell you how much protein, starch, distatic power, and many other characteristics of the grains. These numbers aren't fixed per se, and reading the sheet can tell you lots about your end flavor. 


This link should get you started with the malt sheet:

http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/bmg/noonan.html

If your malt didn't come with one, ask for it. Malt we buy has a sheet stapled to each bag, or at least one for the pallet. You can also always look up the lot number and look online. If you don't know where your grain came from, you can spend about $125USD and have it analyzed in a lab. 



On Feb 18, 2013, at 4:42 PM, "last2blast" <last2blast@...> wrote:

 
What is the perfect temp to cook each grain or is there just one temp that will do for all grains.

I ask because I have seen many different temps listed.

Robert




#43323 From: Brendan Keith <bkeith@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:04 pm
Subject: RE: Re: distilling
bkeith1886
Send Email Send Email
 
The problem with your calculation is that when you create a solution, the volume does not increase (your 1.63 gal. to 2 gal. assumption).
 
A simpler way to plan a simple sugar wash is, first, do it in metric, so if you wanted a wash of SG 1.10 and started with 3L of water (which weighs 3kg by definition), you would just need to add 0.3kg (x 2.2 = 0.66 lbs) of sugar.  Therefore, you now have 3.3kg of 'stuff' in a 3L volume.
 

--

Brendan Keith

bkeith@...

 

-----Original Message-----
From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tgfoitwoods
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:41 AM
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [new_distillers] Re: distilling

 

Alex,

Ok, if 1 cup is 8 fluid ounces (8 ounces of water) and the density of table sugar (sucrose) is 1.59, then 7 cups of sugar is (8)(1.59)(7)=~89 ounces, or 5 pounds 9 ounces of sugar (~5.56 lbs). 26 cups of water is (26)(8)=208 ounces or 1 gallon 2.5 quarts (1.63 gals), which is a bit more than the 4 liters of solution you say. So let's look at both amounts of water.

Guessing that mixing 5.56 lbs sugar with 1.63 gals will give a total volume of (very) roughly 2 gals, that's (5.56)/(1.63)=3.41 lbs/gal of sucrose/water. To look at that solution on brewer's terms, let's look at the density of that solution, which is how brewers predict what a fermentation will produce andhow it will behave. Since the numbers we all use for density are grams per milliliter (same as kilograms per liter) (5.56 lbs)/(2.2)=2.53kg of sugar. (1.63 gals water)(3.78 liters per gallon)=6.16 liters of water, which by definition weighs 6.16kg.

When we add the sugar to the water, we get 2.53 + 6.16 =  8.69kg total solution, which has a volume I guessed to be 2 gallons or (2 gals)(3.78 liters per gallon)=7.56 liters

The density will then be (again, very roughly) (8.69kg)(7.56 L)=1.15 kg/L, which is WAY on the high end of sugar concentration, right out at the bitter end of what a turbo yeast can do. At that, everything will have to be perfect for the ferment to work,and with the high-gravity strain on the yeast, it'll probably taste bad. Andtotal volume of  that's figuring my 2 gallons (7.56 liters) instead of the "bit more than 4 liters" that you either already have are are planning to have. Your 4 liters would put the density way off the charts, simply exploding the yeast cells by osmotic pressure right at the start.

To make your recipe work, either double the volume of the wash ot halve the amount of sugar.

I have no way of knowing what your tubing is made of, but what's really important for distillation is that the tubing is resistant to high-concentration high-temperature ethanol. What normally happens is that the hot ethanol leeches out the plasticizer in the tube (and puts it in your liquor) so you get bad tastes, questionable food safety, and brittle tubing. I know because I did it once.

Normally, brewers would use some combination of a table and a hydrometer to design a sugar wash. Even if you can't locate a hydrometer, here's a table from my book that will let you predict what's going to happen.
http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/GuideToWashNumbers.pdf

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits


<br>--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Regal Silva <regalsilva@...> wrote:<br>><br>> (A) My first try at distilling is using formula  7 cups white sugar, 26 cups water, 24  grams  baker's instant dry yeast  = to  4 lit. mash<br>> <br>> (B) During distillation stage of mash (4 lit) is it safe to use heat resistant  plastic hose to connect from distilling kettle to copper cooling coil.<br>>       My old Volkswagon car engine is fitted with this heat tolerating plastic tube & freely available in the market.   <br>>      Also for ease of handling, I prefer plastic hose -  more flexible arrangement than  copper tube.<br>> <br>> <br>> (C) In this 3rd world country access to correct information, equipment, ingredients are very hard to come by.   So look forward to your good advice.<br>> <br>> Alex<br>><br>


#43324 From: "damionpseudonym" <bloodpuddle@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:38 pm
Subject: More specific newbie questions:
damionpseudonym
Send Email Send Email
 
Back again with another raft of newb questions; fortunately they're much more
specific this time. Progress is being made (and I gotta say, it's all down to
this list and ZB's book... you're a rockstar dude, seriously...)

Okay, so, I made a "coffeepot" still using an erlenmeyer flask (had some issues
with a thermometer since the flask as a much narrower mouth than a coffee pot,
but that was taken care of by using an in-oven model). Turns out the much longer
lyne arm I built works out a treat for collection and a nice cool output.

I've done a couple brandy runs using a large amount of red wine I had handy. The
first was 1000ml and the next was 1500ml. I got roughly 9 to 11 ounces from each
run. Chucked the heads and tails and wound up with 6 ounces kept from the 1000ml
run and 8 ounces kept from the 1500ml run. I strongly suspect that I should have
tossed more heads, as my results have a definite tang to them that is not
something I want to consume.

As far as heat went though, when I cranked the burner (electric hotplate,
restaurant grade), the temp went straight to 89-90 and hovered there until I was
on ounce 5 or 6, then it climbed steadily until it got to about 98 - 99,
whereupon I stopped as the distillate was starting to smell and taste like a wet
dog. When I would attempt to drop the heat to prevent it hitting 90 so fast, the
drip rate would plummet to nil. The wine also stayed at a steady gentle boil. I
had no puking since the flask is quite tall, but I'm still concerned about the
temp.

So here's the questions:

1: What am I doing wrong with temp? More patience? Is it subject to altitude?
(NorCal coastal where I am..) The temperature graph in he book was a ramp, mine
seems to be more of a cliff with a line.

2: Since the temp was so at-variance with what's in ZB's book, how else do I
estimate ABV? Should I just go get a hydrometer before I go any further? Kinda
leaning that direction, and there's a lovely brew shop nearby that stocks them.

3: My output is VERY harsh. Is this normal? Compared to commercial brandy it's
obviously overproof, which is fine, but is the aging what proves all the warmth
and mellow tones? At this point I'm assuming I screwed up my cuts and going
forward from there. I am also noticing it tastes strongly of raisins, for
"brandy" distilled from red wine, is this normal or is the raisin flavor
something else entirely?

4: I have no intention of diluting at this point, is that step something that is
required, or can I collect and start to age without it?

5: Can I take what I've got now, put it back in which the wine I have left, and
re-distill it to remove the heads I should have removed before? I know I can put
the tails back in, but can I do the same with the current product, or is it a
writeoff?

6: Are my input <--> output ratios normal? I had 1100ml of leftovers from a the
1500ml run.

Thanks a bunch.
DeePseudo

#43325 From: "cookin_e85" <skyraider2012@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:14 pm
Subject: new to this hobby
cookin_e85
Send Email Send Email
 
But I have READ a TON.... I purchased a nixon stone offset head still and have
it sitting atop a 15.5 gal keg as the pot.  this reflux still has 2 ports for
temp probes... I have a guide to the approx temps and such for the cuts.. (Taste
smell and touch will be the determining factor) however.. one port at the top of
the condensor coil and one port at the top of the column...

My 1st question is... Where to take the readings for the cuts? top of the column
or top of the condensor ?

there is a ton of info out there for a pot still but not a lot or this offset
head one.  I may have to do this trial and error which is fine... But any
information would be greatly appreciated... I have not fired it up yet at all...
I will be running my first clean up run in the next few days 50/50 vinegar/water
x 2 then a simple sugar mash just to push out alcohol  to finish out the
cleaning process...

At the moment I have no cooling on the output just the condensor, what are your
guys thoughts on this? since its a reflux its already condensed so no real need
for the external cooling?

Any input or an idiots guide to this type would be awesome...


Thanks

#43326 From: RLB <last2blast@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:30 pm
Subject: Re: distilling
last2blast
Send Email Send Email
 
Alex

There are many ways of creating a good sugar wash.  When my experiments started, I used only what was in my kitchen with no fancy equipment.

I drink Arizona Tea, so it was natural to start with their 128 oz jug, but what surprised me is that those jugs hold 152 oz., which is perfect for 1 gal sugar wash.  Here is how my sugar wash was produced:  Clean jug well with dish soap and a quart of water.  Place cap on top and shake very well.  Empty and rinse well.  Place upside down on a dish rack for at least 2 hrs.  Place 16 cups of hot water (around 140 F) in jug.  Add 4 cups of sugar, 1 tbsp. non-iodine salt., 2 tbsp. lemon juice.  I toss in a multivitamin for some nutrients, but you need 1 tbsp of nitrogen fertilizer.  You could wait until some yeast dies so that it produces its own nitrogen or you could ask a farmer or buy it from garden store.  I purchased 1 lb. of DAP from a brew shop 80 miles from my home.  All of that is placed in the hot water filled jug and shaken with cap on to mix well and to aerate wash.

Fill a large clean glass half way with your mixed sugar wash, and allow it to cool.  I use 18 oz thin plastic cups because heat is transferred easily, so you can tell when its lukewarm to the touch.  Place 1 tbsp of yeast in that cup, and use your hand to move cup in a circle motion until yeast is mixed with wash.  Place a paper towel or clean cloth over the cup.  Every 10 min swirl the yeast.  You can pitch the yeast once your main wash has cooled to 85 F, or you can swirl your yeast all day and pitch it before you go to sleep.  The more yeast you have in your cup the faster it will convert sugar to alcohol.

Normally, I pitch my swirled yeast an hour later, and my wash instantly produces CO2.  You don't really need an airlock, but they are very handy.  You can make an airlock, or you could leave the cap snug and releasing pressure every few hours.  I made at least 10 - 1 gal. batches without an airlock.  Great thing about Arizona jugs is you can see its bubbles through the plastic.

Robert           



From: Regal Silva <regalsilva@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 11:47 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] distilling

 
(A) My first try at distilling is using formula  7 cups white sugar, 26 cups water, 24  grams  baker's instant dry yeast  = to  4 lit. mash

(B) During distillation stage of mash (4 lit) is it safe to use heat resistant  plastic hose to connect from distilling kettle to copper cooling coil.
      My old Volkswagon car engine is fitted with this heat tolerating plastic tube & freely available in the market.   
     Also for ease of handling, I prefer plastic hose -  more flexible arrangement than  copper tube.

(C) In this 3rd world country access to correct information, equipment, ingredients are very hard to come by.   So look forward to your good advice.

Alex



#43327 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:36 pm
Subject: Re: distilling
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Sorry, Brendan, but it doesn't work that way. I'll admit I was guessing on the amount the volume changed, but here's proof that it does change, and significantly.

From the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, a 30 Brix sucrose solution has a density of 1.129 kg/L, so that a liter of that solution has a mass of 1129 grams. By Wikipedia's definition, "One degree Brix is 1 gram of sucrose in 100 grams of solution and represents the strength of the solution as percentage by weight (% w/w)."  Therefore the mass of sucrose in that liter is (30/100)1129, or 338.7 grams of sucrose.

Since the mass of the water is everything that isn't the mass of the sucrose, in that solution, the water has a mass of 1129-338.7=790.3 grams of water. By definition, that water has a volume (assuming 4 C) of 790.3 ml, but the total volume of our original liter is 1,000 ml. 790.3 ml of water plus 338.7 grams of sucrose give us a whole liter of solution, way more than just the water.

Yes, it would have been way simpler to solve a problem in grams and liters, but the problem was stated in cups, gallons, and liters, so I had to convert.

I'll stick by my numbers that the problem as originally stated specified a solution almost certainly too concentrated to ferment.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits



<br>--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Brendan Keith <bkeith@...> wrote:<br>><br>> The problem with your calculation is that when you create a solution, the<br>> volume does not increase (your 1.63 gal. to 2 gal. assumption).<br>> <br>> A simpler way to plan a simple sugar wash is, first, do it in metric, so if<br>> you wanted a wash of SG 1.10 and started with 3L of water (which weighs 3kg<br>> by definition), you would just need to add 0.3kg (x 2.2 = 0.66 lbs) of<br>> sugar. Therefore, you now have 3.3kg of 'stuff' in a 3L volume.<br>> <br>> <br>> --<br>> <br>> Brendan Keith<br>> <br>> bkeith@...<br>> <br>> <br>> <br>> -----Original Message-----<br>> From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com]<br>> On Behalf Of tgfoitwoods<br>> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:41 AM<br>> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com<br>> Subject: [new_distillers] Re: distilling<br>> <br>> <br>> <br>> <br>> Alex,<br>> <br>> Ok, if 1 cup is 8 fluid ounces (8 ounces of water) and the density of table<br>> sugar (sucrose) is 1.59, then 7 cups of sugar is (8)(1.59)(7)=~89 ounces, or<br>> 5 pounds 9 ounces of sugar (~5.56 lbs). 26 cups of water is (26)(8)=208<br>> ounces or 1 gallon 2.5 quarts (1.63 gals), which is a bit more than the 4<br>> liters of solution you say. So let's look at both amounts of water.<br>> <br>> Guessing that mixing 5.56 lbs sugar with 1.63 gals will give a total volume<br>> of (very) roughly 2 gals, that's (5.56)/(1.63)=3.41 lbs/gal of<br>> sucrose/water. To look at that solution on brewer's terms, let's look at the<br>> density of that solution, which is how brewers predict what a fermentation<br>> will produce andhow it will behave. Since the numbers we all use for density<br>> are grams per milliliter (same as kilograms per liter) (5.56<br>> lbs)/(2.2)=2.53kg of sugar. (1.63 gals water)(3.78 liters per gallon)=6.16<br>> liters of water, which by definition weighs 6.16kg.<br>> <br>> When we add the sugar to the water, we get 2.53 + 6.16 = 8.69kg total<br>> solution, which has a volume I guessed to be 2 gallons or (2 gals)(3.78<br>> liters per gallon)=7.56 liters<br>> <br>> The density will then be (again, very roughly) (8.69kg)(7.56 L)=1.15 kg/L,<br>> which is WAY on the high end of sugar concentration, right out at the bitter<br>> end of what a turbo yeast can do. At that, everything will have to be<br>> perfect for the ferment to work,and with the high-gravity strain on the<br>> yeast, it'll probably taste bad. Andtotal volume of that's figuring my 2<br>> gallons (7.56 liters) instead of the "bit more than 4 liters" that you<br>> either already have are are planning to have. Your 4 liters would put the<br>> density way off the charts, simply exploding the yeast cells by osmotic<br>> pressure right at the start.<br>> <br>> To make your recipe work, either double the volume of the wash ot halve the<br>> amount of sugar.<br>> <br>> I have no way of knowing what your tubing is made of, but what's really<br>> important for distillation is that the tubing is resistant to<br>> high-concentration high-temperature ethanol. What normally happens is that<br>> the hot ethanol leeches out the plasticizer in the tube (and puts it in your<br>> liquor) so you get bad tastes, questionable food safety, and brittle tubing.<br>> I know because I did it once.<br>> <br>> Normally, brewers would use some combination of a table and a hydrometer to<br>> design a sugar wash. Even if you can't locate a hydrometer, here's a table<br>> from my book that will let you predict what's going to happen.<br>> http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/GuideToWashNumbers.pdf<br>> <br>> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller<br>> <http://www.kelleybarts.com/zymurgy-bob-books/making-fine-spirits/> Making<br>> Fine Spirits<br>> <br>> <br>> <br>--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Regal Silva regalsilva@<br>> wrote:<br>><br>> (A) My first try at distilling is using formula 7 cups<br>> white sugar, 26 cups water, 24 grams baker's instant dry yeast = to 4<br>> lit. mash<br>> <br>> (B) During distillation stage of mash (4 lit) is it<br>> safe to use heat resistant plastic hose to connect from distilling kettle<br>> to copper cooling coil.<br>> My old Volkswagon car engine is fitted<br>> with this heat tolerating plastic tube & freely available in the market.<br>> <br>> Also for ease of handling, I prefer plastic hose - more flexible<br>> arrangement than copper tube.<br>> <br>> <br>> (C) In this 3rd world<br>> country access to correct information, equipment, ingredients are very hard<br>> to come by. So look forward to your good advice.<br>> <br>> Alex<br>><br><br>><br>

#43328 From: "Becool Stayslinky" <becoolstayslinky@...>
Date: Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:28 am
Subject: Re: Wheat Mash
becoolstaysl...
Send Email Send Email
 
Oats   52-64 C
Buckwheat    60-85 C

One other thing about commercial enzymes - they are formulated for different
temperature ranges, some will work at very high temperatures.  The alpha amylase
that I use denatures around 160 but it will work at 185 just long enough to
reduce the viscosity to where the mash is easier to work with, but it is done
for within a few minutes.

BC

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB <last2blast@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks BC
>
> You blew me away with high amylose had no clue until I wiki'ed it.  If you
ever run across Gelatinization temperature for buckwheat and oats, I will be a
happy camper.
>
> Robert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: Becool Stayslinky <becoolstayslinky@...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 8:26 PM
> Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Wheat Mash
>
>
>  
> This might be of interest from the alcohol textbook:
>
> Gelatinization temperature ranges of various feedstocks
>
> Corn
> Standard                62-72 C            ( 144-162 F )
> High amylose 1       67->80 C          ( 153-176 F )
> High amylose 2       67->80  C         ( 153-176 F )
> Barley                         52-59 C              ( 126-138 F )
> Rye                             57-70 C              ( 135-158 F )
> Rice (polished)             68-77 C              ( 154-171 F )
> Sorghum (milo)             68-77 C             ( 154-171 F )
> Wheat                             58-64 C            ( 136-147 F )
>
> This is the cooking temperature that you hold for an hour or so to hydrate the
starch molecules so that they enzymes can work on them. In my cooking procedure
I bring 7 gallons of water to a boil, turn off the heat and add 20 pounds of
finely ground wheat, with a little bit of enzyme mixed through the last few
pounds to make the mix more stirrable.  After all the grain is mixed in, the
temperature is at about 180-185, well above the required temp for cooking wheat,
but doesn't hurt it and speeds up the hydration of the starches. I it let stand
for about an hour, mixing occasionally before moving to the liquefaction step
where the alpha amylase enzyme is used.
>
> BTW- I make up the rest of the liquid content in the mash by adding ice blocks
to bring the temp down in the subsequent steps.
>
> BC
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "allibugger"  wrote:
> >
> > White Bear,
> > The recipe called for heating the water to 165 degrees, turning off the
heat, pitching the wheat and letting it cool to 85 degrees before pitching the
yeast.  I don't know if that is what you call cooking it or not.  I did not
grind the wheat.  Thanks.  Alli
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, White Bear  wrote:
> > >
> > > Alli-
> > >   With a lot of grain mashes there will be some floating, this is
normal.  This is called "the cap"  Wheat being so fiberous will have the
tendency to do this more if you are using whole or cracked wheat.  Try to get
ground wheat or grind your own.  The cap will soon waterlog and things will
settle down after a while.  Just keep stirring the cap into the mash and try
varying the grind on your next batch.  Did you cook the mash before pitching
the yeast?
> > > WB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > >  From: allibugger
> > > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 2:21 PM
> > > Subject: [new_distillers] Wheat Mash
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > > Howdy All,
> > >
> > > Reading the recent questions/answers regarding mashing processes, I have a
question.  I have tried several corn based recipes and am now experimenting with
a flaked wheat vodka recipe.  I notice after the yeast is pitched and the top is
put on the fermenter, the wheat floats to the top and somewhat dries out.  This
also seems to slow down the fermentation process - when I take the top off and
still it well, the bubbling picks up for a while until the wheat floats back up.
Is this a problem or just how it works?  Thanks
> > > Alli
> > >
> >
>

#43329 From: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
Date: Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:12 am
Subject: Re: Small Volume Hobby Size Distiller
s_carlosalberto
Send Email Send Email
 
YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LA VIDA


De: "cnapier@..." <cnapier@...>
Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: jueves, 7 de febrero de 2013 1:30
Asunto: Re: [new_distillers] Small Volume Hobby Size Distiller

 
Awesome hobby.....

I have a 2 gallon pot still......from ebay....figured I'd go small to learn.

Two sugar/cornmeal runs later.........

Make plenty of mistakes........Almost think I understand the basics.

After 3.5 gallons of wash.............20 oz's of something....

:)

I love it





From: RLB <last2blast@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, February 6, 2013 10:02:34 PM
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Small Volume Hobby Size Distiller

 
My last stripping run acquired 2 qts. of heads, hearts, and tails, and my pot still is 2.5 gal.  7.5 gal should give you around 2 gal., 30 gal around 7 gal.  Going bigger will get you noticed by the wrong people so be careful.  They are watching and don't like it when they don't get their tax money.

Robert 



From: Chuck <mcr2207@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Small Volume Hobby Size Distiller

 
Very Funny Ben

I started with a 7.5 gallon and am now building a 30 Gal  Already thinking it might be too small.

Cheers



From: ben marks <nebskram@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 7:08 AM
Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Small Volume Hobby Size Distiller

 
SEND IT BACK AND GET A BIGGER ONE!

 
 ...ben
 
 
________________________________ 
 
  Whiskey is What Beer Wants to Be When it Grows Up
______________________
 
Your Car is German. Your Vodka is Russian. Your Pizza Italian. Your
Kebab is Turkish. Your Democracy is Greek. Your Coffee Brazilian.
Your Movies are American. Your Tea is Chinese
. Your Shirt is Mexican.
Your Oil is Saudi Arabian. Your Electronics are Japanese. Your Numbers  are

Arabic, Your Letters are Latin. Your Cocaine is Colombian. And you
Complain that your Neighbor is an Immigrant?
_________________________



To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
From: sir_mudduck@...
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 00:58:15 +0000
Subject: [new_distillers] Small Volume Hobby Size Distiller

 
I just recieved my small but functional unit. THe main chamber holds .7 liters. Does any one have expierance with this size device. Maybe some tips or tricks to save me some of the growing pains?









#43330 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:01 pm
Subject: Re: More specific newbie questions:
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Hey Damion,
<br>--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "damionpseudonym" <bloodpuddle@...> wrote:<br>><br>> Back again with another raft of newb questions; fortunately they're much more specific this time. Progress is being made (and I gotta say, it's all down to this list and ZB's book... you're a rockstar dude, seriously...)<br>>

Thanks(shuffle, blush) I'm glad it's working.

 <br>> Okay, so, I made a "coffeepot" still using an erlenmeyer flask (had some issues with a thermometer since the flask as a much narrower mouth than a coffee pot, but that was taken care of by using an in-oven model). Turns out the much longer lyne arm I built works out a treat for collection and a nice cool output.<br>> <br>> I've done a couple brandy runs using a large amount of red wine I had handy. The first was 1000ml and the next was 1500ml. I got roughly 9 to 11 ounces from each run. Chucked the heads and tails and wound up with 6 ounces kept from the 1000ml run and 8 ounces kept from the 1500ml run. I strongly suspect that I should have tossed more heads, as my results have a definite tang to them that is not something I want to consume.<br>>
On the wine I distilled in the book, I only reserved 4 ounces out of ~1500 ml.
 <br>> As far as heat went though, when I cranked the burner (electric hotplate, restaurant grade), the temp went straight to 89-90 and hovered there until I was on ounce 5 or 6, then it climbed steadily until it got to about 98 - 99, whereupon I stopped as the distillate was starting to smell and taste like a wet dog. When I would attempt to drop the heat to prevent it hitting 90 so fast, the drip rate would plummet to nil. The wine also stayed at a steady gentle boil. I had no puking since the flask is quite tall, but I'm still concerned about the temp.<br>>
Your first mistake was trying to control the head temperature by varying the heat input. You just turn the heat on high until you are almost at the boil and then turn it down to where it's just a simmering boil. Its boiling point will be whatever physics and the various liquid condentration in your wash say it will be, unless you turn the heat down so far that heat loss (bad, on this tiny still) stops your wash from boiling, and then head temp plummets. Admittedly, if you have the heat way up, liquid will evaporate faster, and the ABV will change faster, and the head temp will also change faster.
 <br>> So here's the questions:<br>> <br>> 1: What am I doing wrong with temp? More patience? Is it subject to altitude? (NorCal coastal where I am..) The temperature graph in he book was a ramp, mine seems to be more of a cliff with a line.<br>>

After it starts boiling, just hold it at a simmer and let it take care of its own temperature.
 <br>> 2: Since the temp was so at-variance with what's in ZB's book, how else do I estimate ABV? Should I just go get a hydrometer before I go any further? Kinda leaning that direction, and there's a lovely brew shop nearby that stocks them.<br>>
Sooner or later, you'll want a "Proof and Traille" hydrometer, specifically for testing the ABV of already-distilled spiirits (it won't work at all on your wash). If you ever get to Redding, find Jay at NorCal Brewing Solutions. He's used to working with distillers and has lots of knowledge and good stuff.
 <br>> 3: My output is VERY harsh. Is this normal? Compared to commercial brandy it's obviously overproof, which is fine, but is the aging what proves all the warmth and mellow tones? At this point I'm assuming I screwed up my cuts and going forward from there. I am also noticing it tastes strongly of raisins, for "brandy" distilled from red wine, is this normal or is the raisin flavor something else entirely?<br>>
First off, your undiluted spirit is probably 130 proof, and yes, by the sound of it, you have some heads in there. Diluting is not "required" as such, but most people will, just so the spirit is drinkable.
 <br>> 4: I have no intention of diluting at this point, is that step something that is required, or can I collect and start to age without it?<br>> <br>> 5: Can I take what I've got now, put it back in which the wine I have left, and re-distill it to remove the heads I should have removed before? I know I can put the tails back in, but can I do the same with the current product, or is it a writeoff?<br>>
In distilling, almost nothing is ever a writeoff; you can alsways re-distill. Instead of throwing away the heads and tails, which have lots of ethanol and flavor in them (but still throw away that first sample, the foreshots), save them and combine the outputs of 2 or 3 runs, load all that back into the still, and then do a spirit run. With the increased wash ABV, you'll see longer gentler temperature curves, and you'll have more time to make your cuts. Do yourself a favor and don't try to make the cuts (at first) while the still is running. Air out the distillate and make the cuts the next day or 2.
 <br>> 6: Are my input <--> output ratios normal? I had 1100ml of leftovers from a the 1500ml run.<br>>
Your output seems to be in the ballpark.
 <br>> Thanks a bunch.<br>> DeePseudo<br>><br>
You're very welcome. (You'd have had this sooner but the damned Yahoo reply ate the first one)

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits


#43331 From: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 1:35 am
Subject: Re: Re: leak sealing
s_carlosalberto
Send Email Send Email
 
YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LA VIDA


De: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
Para: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>; AA-24heures-partages Modérateur <AA-24heures-partages-proprietaire@...>
Enviado: sábado, 9 de febrero de 2013 1:16
Asunto: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

 
yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida


De: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: domingo, 3 de febrero de 2013 22:40
Asunto: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

 
I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
>
> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe around main or lyme arm...will post pics asap....thanks...
>






#43332 From: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:35 am
Subject: Re: first wash ?
s_carlosalberto
Send Email Send Email
 
YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LAVIDA


De: ahandyman59 <rdh2059@...>
Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: sábado, 9 de febrero de 2013 4:03
Asunto: RE: [new_distillers] first wash ?

 
The stuff “left over” is pretty much fertilizer to your lawn, garden, etc. Anything that loves very slight acid ph will absolutely love it.
 
From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chris
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 8:40 AM
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [new_distillers] first wash ?
 
 
Ahoy Ahoy All,

My first sugar/Turbo Classic wash is done fermenting (I think). No more bubbles in the airlock. Question is, do I need to use the Turbo clear to clear it up or can I just turn off the heat and let it settle on it's own? I didn't use the carbon. Also, can I pour what ever's left over from ferment and distilling on my lawn/flower beds or is it to nasty? Any advise would be helpful.

FNG
Chris



#43333 From: RLB <last2blast@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 6:10 am
Subject: Re: first wash ?
last2blast
Send Email Send Email
 
Unless you stripe all of the ethanol from your wash you will kill your grass.

Robert



From: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>; Cristina Sapariuc <crissu.tina@...>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] first wash ?

 
YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LAVIDA


De: ahandyman59 <rdh2059@...>
Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: sábado, 9 de febrero de 2013 4:03
Asunto: RE: [new_distillers] first wash ?

 
The stuff “left over” is pretty much fertilizer to your lawn, garden, etc. Anything that loves very slight acid ph will absolutely love it.
 
From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chris
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 8:40 AM
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [new_distillers] first wash ?
 
 
Ahoy Ahoy All,

My first sugar/Turbo Classic wash is done fermenting (I think). No more bubbles in the airlock. Question is, do I need to use the Turbo clear to clear it up or can I just turn off the heat and let it settle on it's own? I didn't use the carbon. Also, can I pour what ever's left over from ferment and distilling on my lawn/flower beds or is it to nasty? Any advise would be helpful.

FNG
Chris





#43334 From: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:24 pm
Subject: Re: time question
s_carlosalberto
Send Email Send Email
 
SOBERANIA ALIMENTARIA Y ACCESSO A LA SALUD POR EL DERECHO DE LOS PUEBLOS A ALIMENTARSE Y EJERCER SU SOBERNAIA ALIMENTARIA EN EL SALON EVA PERON MUNICIPIO DE LOMAS DE ZAMORA PROVINCIA DE BUENOS AIRES MANUEL CASTRO 220 PRIMER PISO


De: RLB <last2blast@...>
Para: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Enviado: martes, 5 de febrero de 2013 17:17
Asunto: Re: [new_distillers] time question

 
1/2 tubing will make you happier, but for a good lesson test both.

Robert



From: Ricky R. <rrogers10@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:10 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] time question

 
ok I haven't run my my pressure cooker yet,but I have to ask this first...right now its a 16 quart with 3/8 copper tubing on it,as I'm on a budget...going through some of my shed I found a piece of 1/2 inch..how much would this increase my collection times ? gotta ask..thanks also for all the help I have been receiving lately too,most helpful






#43335 From: Gerard Kenney <kenneygerard@...>
Date: Fri Feb 22, 2013 2:36 pm
Subject: (No subject)
kenneygerard
Send Email Send Email
 
I would like to be able to send messages to members.

#43336 From: "Donnie" <streetroddonnie@...>
Date: Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:40 pm
Subject: ok
streetroddonnie
Send Email Send Email
 
I just tried a banana mash just 5 gal, thank god it was in my shower about
1:00am a big boom brought me up out of the bed lol I had banana mash all over
the bath room what whint wrong added no shugar and used on pack of yeast the
brew store give me what tha hell man ????????

#43337 From: Jim Graves <jimbull34@...>
Date: Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:10 pm
Subject: Re: ok
jimbull34
Send Email Send Email
 
Did you have it in a sealed, air tight, container?  Even with an airlock on it, the bananas produced too much gas for the airlock.  I don't know why everyone is sealing their mash's and putting airlocks on them.  I have made wine and booze for 45 years and never, NEVER, sealed a container and airlocked.  The mash needs air (oxygen) in order to function.  The airlocks are used after primary fermentation in the secondary fermentator to keep it from exploding, like yours did.  Try it in an open top container with just a towel over it...
 
James D. Graves
Ravenwood Solutions, llc.
251-533-8569

From: Donnie <streetroddonnie@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 1:40 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] ok

 
I just tried a banana mash just 5 gal, thank god it was in my shower about 1:00am a big boom brought me up out of the bed lol I had banana mash all over the bath room what whint wrong added no shugar and used on pack of yeast the brew store give me what tha hell man ????????




#43338 From: self.adhesive@...
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:32 am
Subject: Re: ok
girlguidebis...
Send Email Send Email
 
wow what a thought banana everywhere


 

I just tried a banana mash just 5 gal, thank god it was in my shower about 1:00am a big boom brought me up out of the bed lol I had banana mash all over the bath room what whint wrong added no shugar and used on pack of yeast the brew store give me what tha hell man ????????


#43339 From: Jeff Kimble <jeff@...>
Date: Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:35 pm
Subject: Re: ok
jeffkimblelv
Send Email Send Email
 
Nothing went wrong..

Next time leave more head space and use a different air-lock. I use a 1/2" vinyl hose into a bucket of water.. I've mopped many ceilings before doing both of those.



#43340 From: RLB <last2blast@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:59 am
Subject: Re: ok
last2blast
Send Email Send Email
 
I kind of wonder why we use airlocks too!  I watched a Seagram vid and they had a 10,000 gal vats room that were wide open.  Moonshines never seem to use them either.  My first guess would be wild yeast and bacteria.  Years ago, I made a sugar wine that was 19 abv and my containers were never sealed and used an airlock.  I will say one thing about using an airlock is that it keeps the odor down if you live in an apartment building.

In my next experiment, I will test 5 gal. airlock sugar wash verses 5 gal sugar wash with a cover loosely placed on top.  I am waiting for warmer weather before using grains,so my windows can stay open 24/7

Robert 



From: Jim Graves <jimbull34@...>
To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] ok

 
Did you have it in a sealed, air tight, container?  Even with an airlock on it, the bananas produced too much gas for the airlock.  I don't know why everyone is sealing their mash's and putting airlocks on them.  I have made wine and booze for 45 years and never, NEVER, sealed a container and airlocked.  The mash needs air (oxygen) in order to function.  The airlocks are used after primary fermentation in the secondary fermentator to keep it from exploding, like yours did.  Try it in an open top container with just a towel over it...
 
James D. Graves
Ravenwood Solutions, llc.
251-533-8569

From: Donnie <streetroddonnie@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 1:40 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] ok

 
I just tried a banana mash just 5 gal, thank god it was in my shower about 1:00am a big boom brought me up out of the bed lol I had banana mash all over the bath room what whint wrong added no shugar and used on pack of yeast the brew store give me what tha hell man ????????






#43341 From: Rich Hays <emnrich2@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 2:02 am
Subject: Re: ok
emnrich2
Send Email Send Email
 
So what recipe did you use for your banana mash?

Sent from my iPad

#43342 From: Damion Pseudonym <bloodpuddle@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 3:26 am
Subject: Re: ok
damionpseudonym
Send Email Send Email
 
Yeah, I gotta say, I kinda really wish this one came with pictures....

On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 5:32 PM, <self.adhesive@...> wrote:

wow what a thought banana everywhere



I just tried a banana mash just 5 gal, thank god it was in my shower about 1:00am a big boom brought me up out of the bed lol I had banana mash all over the bath room what whint wrong added no shugar and used on pack of yeast the brew store give me what tha hell man ????????




--
---------------------------------------------------------------
I am riding in the Aids Life Cycle SF ---> LA ride this year, Please Consider Helping!

#43343 From: "last2blast" <last2blast@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:16 am
Subject: Quality Spirits
last2blast
Send Email Send Email
 
As a test, I purchased 200 ml of the cheapest vodka from a local liqueur store
as a base for my first finish run.  Now I have a good idea what not to keep as
drinkable spirits.  That one small sip gave me a headache, so it has to be heads
that was nasty stuff.

If you are a newbie to distillation like myself, I would suggest that you go out
and sample the cheapest spirits you can find as a means of knowing what you
don't want to produce from your still.

Robert

#43344 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:09 pm
Subject: Re: ok
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
I think it's because so many of us started as winemakers and brewers, where it's important that whatever you bottle and put away for a while, at 4-14%ABV, needs to be pretty sanitary, and the smaller the fermenter (the hobbyists 5 or 6 gallons as opposed to a commercial 3,000 or 5,000 gallon) is harder to keep sanitary.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB <last2blast@...> wrote:
>
> I kind of wonder why we use airlocks too!  I watched a Seagram vid and they had a 10,000 gal vats room that were wide open.  Moonshines never seem to use them either.  My first guess would be wild yeast and bacteria.  Years ago, I made a sugar wine that was 19 abv and my containers were never sealed and used an airlock.  I will say one thing about using an airlock is that it keeps the odor down if you live in an apartment building.
>
> In my next experiment, I will test 5 gal. airlock sugar wash verses 5 gal sugar wash with a cover loosely placed on top.  I am waiting for warmer weather before using grains,so my windows can stay open 24/7
>
> Robert 
>
>
>
>
----snip----

#43345 From: "Donnie" <streetroddonnie@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:56 pm
Subject: thanks for all the help on my banana mess,
streetroddonnie
Send Email Send Email
 
thanks you all, but let me git back on track here im not new at this but I am
old school corn whiskey not corn meal, and barly scotch, and evan shugar shine
is all I no im 9th gen, shiner just wanted to try something new and it bit me in
the ass LOL, but hey on other hand smells good LMFAO!!!!!!

#43346 From: Alex Netherton <blueridgediscovery@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:07 pm
Subject: Re: Quality Spirits
danetherton2000
Send Email Send Email
 
Remember that vodka is a "grain" spirit, from some unnamed grain, or even potatoes; moonshine, for the "real thing" (not cola) is made of corn, sometimes with a bit of rye for spice or wheat for smoothness. Most of the s&*t seen on the Discovery Channel "Moonshiners" is "sugar whiskey" or "sugar jack", that is made from sugar, water, and yeast. Vodka can be made this way.

There is, after all, a tradition that can be kept alive here, or at least revived, the making of "old time Mountain Dew" which was only one of many names. Others were "Sweet Spirits of cats a fightin'", "Panther P___s", "Bust head", "Stump Hole", "Stump Water" and many more. The product of a well run Mountain still was clear as spring water, had a sweet scent of flowers, fresh corn, and maybe smoke, if they dried the malted grain over a fire or in the smokehouse. The taste was smooth for some makers, fiery for others (some liked a "bite", which led some makers to add lighter fluid, methanol, lye and other chemicals, which could get the moonshiner killed if discovered, and could kill customers), and had flavor profiles that varied from sweet corn to smoky, to, some said "flowery", depending on the makeup of the mash - some used honey in it.

There is a good old book called "Mountain Spirits" that can be found on Amazon that tells a lot about it.
Alex Netherton
Blue Ridge Discovery

On 2/23/2013 3:16 AM, last2blast wrote:
 

As a test, I purchased 200 ml of the cheapest vodka from a local liqueur store as a base for my first finish run. Now I have a good idea what not to keep as drinkable spirits. That one small sip gave me a headache, so it has to be heads that was nasty stuff.

If you are a newbie to distillation like myself, I would suggest that you go out and sample the cheapest spirits you can find as a means of knowing what you don't want to produce from your still.

Robert



#43347 From: Jim Graves <jimbull34@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:21 pm
Subject: Re: Quality Spirits
jimbull34
Send Email Send Email
 
Please make sure you let you product set overnight, uncovered (just a cloth over it) before you judge your end result.  I am running now and get in a 12 gal batch, about a quart of heads, three quarts hearts and the tails I stopped at 40% and got thee quarts of them.  A very destinctive smell from each of the three.  Today after letting them set over night, there is very little odor, smell, scent what ever you want to call it and a very destinctive taste between them.  I mix them all back together and make apple pie and it is running around 110-115% and boy is it GOOD!

Moral of the story is: don't be to quick to say something is not up to your standards, and if it isn't, lower your standards!!!!!
 
James D. Graves
Ravenwood Solutions, llc.
251-533-8569

From: last2blast <last2blast@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2013 1:02 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] Quality Spirits

 
As a test, I purchased 200 ml of the cheapest vodka from a local liqueur store as a base for my first finish run. Now I have a good idea what not to keep as drinkable spirits. That one small sip gave me a headache, so it has to be heads that was nasty stuff.

If you are a newbie to distillation like myself, I would suggest that you go out and sample the cheapest spirits you can find as a means of knowing what you don't want to produce from your still.

Robert




#43348 From: "StephenA" <skarnold74@...>
Date: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:47 pm
Subject: stuck wash
skarnold74
Send Email Send Email
 
I apologize in advance if this is a little wordy.

I'm fermenting a cracked corn and rye wash with 8 lbs of sugar in 5 gallons of
water. I'm on my 8th day with it and the airlock only lets out a bubble every 25
seconds (been that way now for the last 6 days). SG is 1.08 and still tastes
sugary as hell. I'm using reverse osmosis water and started with 2 packets of
champaign yeast. I'm on my 3rd run. 1st 2 washes i didnt even know to check SG
before and after. got me some equipment and decided to get a little more
aggressive with my wash. this is my 2nd wash using RO water. 1st went ok but in
retrospect probably still had a lot of sugar in it. I confess I didnt rehydrate
my yeast at 1st, did some more reading and decided to add another packet of
champaign yeast after rehydrating it for 30 min and adding sugar and letting it
foam. added the new rehydrated yeast about 4 days ago. doesnt seem to have
helped much. Any way I can get it going again? any ideas what to do different?
if my problem was dry yeast, shouldnt adding a yeast starter have helped?

Messages 43319 - 43348 of 43820   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Add to My Yahoo!      XML What's This?

Copyright 2010 Yahoo! Inc. All rights reserved.
Privacy Policy - Terms of Service - Guidelines NEW - Help