Distillers & new_distillers Policy

Introduction:

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All new members will be sent a copy of these rules upon joining the groups.  On a monthly basis, a copy of these rules shall be posted in the messages list of the groups.  A copy of these rules shall remain in the files section for perusal.

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About the Groups:

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Signature Lines Policy:

Signature lines are generally acceptable when used in replies to posts made on the lists, however they must conform to the following guidelines:

1. Please keep signature lines to a maximum of five (5) lines.

A sig file of no more than three (3) lines is preferred. [example #1]

2. Sig files may contain site URLs, but they may NOT include advertising of any kind. (see examples)

3. Sig files may NOT contain affiliate links of any kind, including links to hosting reseller programs, MLMs, paid browsing or e-mail programs, etc. (see examples)

4. Sig files should NOT contain meaningless disclaimers as to the content or opinions expressed in the e-mail. If you are posting from a company address that requires such a disclaimer to be appended, we suggest you either use the FPlist page at yahoogroups.com to post your list messages, or sign-up for an account at one of the many free providers and use this for posting to the list. (see examples)

5. Vendors may not post advertisements to the list for their products under any circumstances. (see examples)

6. Members should use good judgment in composing their signatures and should contact the list owner if there is any question about the format or content : see examples

7. If your signature line does not conform to these guidelines, one of the list moderators may contact you to suggest how you may change it to be in compliance with guidelines. If your "default" sig line does not conform to the above guidelines, we suggest you create an alternate signature file to use when posting to this list.

Examples:

Example #1 - Acceptable:

Can anyone tell me why my still doesn't do XYZ? TIA.

regards

Joe Blow

http://www.joes-stills.com

End Example #1

Example #2 - NOT acceptable:

Can anyone tell me why my still doesn't do XYZ? TIA.

regards

Joe Blow

WebMaster Joe's Magic Moonshine Site

Can't find Product A, B or C?  We have squillions to choose from. Visit us at http://www.joes-stills.com.

Get paid for reading e-mail. Sign-up at http://latest-email-scam.com/1234?id=joeblow

The opinions expressed in this email are solely those of the author and do not reflect the corporate views of joes-stills.com. This mail is personal and confidential and not meant for use by anyone but the recipient.

End Example #2

Variance of Rules:

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Base with topics related to Fermentation and Distilling.

In addition, you should consider reading through Tony Ackland's
Homedistillers site at: http://homedistiller.org/  This contains all
the information needed to start off.  Another great resource is Harry
Jackson's (the Owner of these sites) "The Alcohol Library", which contains
many books and articles on the topics of Distillation.  See:
http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/

The Database section contains the Information base with a quick
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Enjoy and BE SAFE.

Thank you for joining us.

The Management.
(Harry Jackson - Co-Owner)
(Jameson Beam1 - Co-owner)
(Co-Moderators - Mason Jar Dixon (aka Rye Junkie), Riku, Trid and ZB - Zymurgy
Bob)

Hello everyone I'm new to the site and the hobby.  I have a copper still 6 gal
pot with slobber box that I just used for this first time and it worked great. 
I have been reading about thumpers or doublers and thought it would be a good
idea to have one. My slobber box goes in one side and straight out the other
with just ghd bottom cut off of the tubing.  I was thinking of just cutting it
and putting a new piece bending down to the bottom. The bottom is cone shaped
with valve think that maders. Any help would bd great thanks everyone

Erik


Newbie
KGC sentinel

A friend of mine gave me 300L of a strong belgian beer he makes at 10%abv that
has an off taste and a little contaminated but not vinegary yet.  Has anyone had
success of distilling  hopped beer into a neutral spirit?  I have a 50L wood
fired potstill for first runs and a 2inch  4 foot tall LM from Smiley' book for
the spirit run. Any ideas?

Does anyone have a good source for brass/copper threaded caps? I dug up an old
pot still that has a threaded opening of 5 13/16". I'm trying to come up with a
cap to make it functional again.

Thanks......JJ

Bier schnapps?

http://www.probrewer.com/resources/distilling/schnapps.php

wal

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...> wrote:
>
> I only have experience with 2 kinds of hopped beer distillation, and
> they match what Nicodeamus says. As a demonstration for the book, I
> distilled small amounts of American lager (probably Bud), and had no
> objections to the very light hop flavor in the distillate.
>
> When I distilled a holiday ale my son had brewed (and didn't like) the
> distillate hop flavor was fairly strong and unpleasant to my tastes.
> Admittedly, my son is kinda heavy-handed with hops. I just don't know
> about the Belgian
>
> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits
> <http://kelleybarts.com/MFS.html>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Kevin M <nicodeamous@> wrote:
> >
> > I have distilled several batches using left-over keg beer and made
> decent whiskey with it.
> >
> > I had read past posts which stated that the hop aroma /oils would come
> through and cause an unsatisfactory product (and may contaminate the
> still)
> >
> > However i did not detect any hop aroma after 2 passes (strip & final)
> through my still (although I was using Budweiser which i don't think has
> much of a hop profile to speak of).
> >
> > I don't recall Belgian style beers as being too hoppy (as compared to
> say a double IPA) so I might suggest doing a stripping run in your pot
> still and check if there is objectionable odor coming through.
> >
> > KM
> >
>

You'll get very little alcohol from such a small wash.  Not enough to work with.
Minimum wash should be 20 litres or more.  Start your learning journey in the
files section.  Mason's instructions is a good place to begin...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/files/Mason%20Jar%20Dixon%20-%20Rye\
%20Junkie/


Slainte!
regards Harry
Admin
===========================

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, regal de silva <silvax321@...> wrote:
>
> As a beginner, I wanted to follow the easier step of getting
> alcohol via freezing the mash in the refrigerator.  Out of the 2 liter mash,
as a trial, I used only
> 1 liter of the mash to freeze but results were disappointing.  The total mash
was frozen.  There was hardly separation of ice and
> alcohol.
>  
> The formula used was : 3-1/2 cups white sugar, 2 liters of
> water and 12 grams of instant dry yeast (used for making bread) Sugar was
> dissolved in lukewarm water, and the yeast dissolved separately in a pan with
> lukewarm water till yeast was dissolved, thereafter added the yeast in the pan
> to the container with the sugar/water.
> An improvised fermentation lock was used to prevent outside
> air getting into the ferment container. Left for 8 days by which time
fermentation
> has stopped.  However the fermentation
> (wash) was cloudy, yellowish color  and
> sweet tasting. (This formula given  by  Zero)
>  
>  
> I tried the above method two times &  could not get good results.  Now I am
on my third trial and after 8 days
> the fermentation appears to have stopped but I will allow it to stand for
> further 3 weeks! Before I start the freezing method.
>  
> I will venture to the distillation process in the not too
> distant future.  I accessed your site for
> information but these are two complicated for a beginner.  Sugar and
baker’s yeast is available, so its
> very helpful if some experienced guy will publish the step by step method of
> obtaining the correct mash ready for distillation and or freezing. The process
> must be clearly written.  
>  
> If I can get quarter liter of alcohol from 2 liter mash I
> will be more than happy.  This is dirt
> cheap than the legal bottled stuff which are prohibitively taxed & hence
> expensive.
>  
> Help in this matter will be greatly appreciated as home made will save a big
dent in my purse! 
>

I am in the market for new and more efficient equipment and really like the 8
gallon, 2", duel purpose tower from Mile High.  However I am intrigued by the
Turbo 500 Still - it has lots of interesting features.  I would like to know if
anyone has one of these and what they think of it.  Thanks.  Alli

I have had my T-500 for almost a year now. I find it very simple to use, and
have made many successful distillations. It works extremely well as long as you
use it according to the instructions provided. In other words, don't try to use
it as a pot still, as some have tried to do.  My favorite mash is Birdwatchers.
It's listed on the tried and true recipe section.

Good luck

Sent from my iPad

I'm sure you google it, you'd see a lot of concerns.  A few notes from the folks
at homedistiller.org forums, it has plastic parts (a big no no) and their
instructions to just ignore every single bit of knowledge about separations runs
counter to hundreds of years of experience.  there is no copper in the vapor
stream, and since they also push turbo yeasts, they probably want to sell you a
lot of carbon to get rid of the nasty flavors.

my take?  when New Zealand legalised home distilling, a chinese company rushed
in with this.  Now they have a warehouse full and keep advertising it.

I went to a local homebrew supplier.  first thing out the guy's mouth, turbo
yeast and that t500.  I left, figured I couldn't trust him or whatever else he
was selling.

do you really think you can make a 5 gal bucket of sugar water and end up
getting a gallon of anything drinkable without making cuts?

this sounds just like something you'd see during a late night movie sold by the
sham wow guy.

--- On Wed, 10/17/12, allibugger <allibugger@...> wrote:

> From: allibugger <allibugger@...>
> Subject: [new_distillers] Turbo 500 Still
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, October 17, 2012, 5:45 PM
> I am in the market for new and more
> efficient equipment and really like the 8 gallon, 2", duel
> purpose tower from Mile High.  However I am intrigued
> by the Turbo 500 Still - it has lots of interesting
> features.  I would like to know if anyone has one of
> these and what they think of it.  Thanks.  Alli
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>  New Distillers group archives are at http://www.taet.com.au/distillers.nsf/
>  FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     new_distillers-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>

There is a lot of information on www.stillsmart.co.uk and a fair few users on
the forums, worth a look.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "allibugger" <allibugger@...> wrote:
>
> I am in the market for new and more efficient equipment and really like the 8
gallon, 2", duel purpose tower from Mile High.  However I am intrigued by the
Turbo 500 Still - it has lots of interesting features.  I would like to know if
anyone has one of these and what they think of it.  Thanks.  Alli
>

OK...I'm in the process of making my own cap. One question I have, should I have
the cap discharge out the top, or out the side? I found a 6" dia copper bucket
that I'm going to modify to fit, so the top of the cap will be the flat bottom
of the bucket.

I have seen stills discharge out the top & out the side. Which do you think is
best, or does it really matter?

Thanks....JJ

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, virgil hoskins <varminteater2003@...>
wrote:
>
> Good morning JJ
> Well it looks like a high dollar fix to plug a hole that size,, would you be
willing to cut the threaded area
> out/ off and replate it with a 2in, threaded hole ?,, is the area rounded or
flat?
> if its flat you can have the hole tapped already before installing it,
> if it is a round area, the plate may have to be installed first then taped/
well or soldered in place
> to form with the curved area,, and i dont like the idea of using brass in a
still ,,copper or stainless only
> let us know what you come up with,,do you have a machine shop close to you?
> they will tap your 2in, hole pretty fast ,
> virgil
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: johnjab01 <johnjab01@...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 3:16 PM
> Subject: [new_distillers] Pot still cap
>
>  
> Does anyone have a good source for brass/copper threaded caps? I dug up an old
pot still that has a threaded opening of 5 13/16". I'm trying to come up with a
cap to make it functional again.
>
> Thanks......JJ
>

I use the Turbo 500, I can honestly say its the most efficient still I have come
across on the market.

I rarely respond to messages on this forum, I'm more of an observer but I
thought it would be important for me to let you know that making this purchase
will be a great move in your hobby.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "allibugger" <allibugger@...> wrote:
>
> I am in the market for new and more efficient equipment and really like the 8
gallon, 2", duel purpose tower from Mile High.  However I am intrigued by the
Turbo 500 Still - it has lots of interesting features.  I would like to know if
anyone has one of these and what they think of it.  Thanks.  Alli
>

I use a still that I fabricated from a 15 gallon beer keg. When I install the
still head, I use a cork gasket made from material that I bought at an
automotive parts store. The cork is thicker than most cork and is not cheap.

I have discoverd that after a run if the cork gasket drys out, it will shrink
and become un-usable. So to prevent that, I store the gasket in water. I have
tried tap water, distilled water and water with Clean-Pro(distillers
disinfectant). Eventually the gasket gets slimey. Does not smell, but it is
kinda of icky.

I am not sure if the slime is a problem, just seems unhealthy to me. Anyhow,
does anyone have any suggestions on a different gasket material or another way
to store the gasket that avoids the slime?

Neophrene and similar gasket material that I can find locally is too thin to get
a good seal.

Thanks

Hi. Could you freeze the cork? Also - dairy, wine and food industry plants often
have food-grade rubber to use to make custom gaskets and this rubber is often
quite thick. Might be worth looking into.

Paul

Thanks for the reply Virgil,

I played with the cap this weekend....I have it fitting nicely into the top of
the still. I figure that I will use a flour paste to seal it up before a run.

It looks kind of like a chimney cap/plug sticking out the top of the still. I
crimped the edge that fits in the still. I still need to hit the local hardware
store & see about a fitting to get vapors out. I was thinking of coming out the
top with a 90 degree copper flare fitting of some kind, which would then attach
to my 1/2" copper worm tube.

I just like the idea of coming out of the top, because it a flat surface & would
make it alot easier. Should I try to go with a large fitting & then neck it
down, or do you think the vapor would find it's way out of a 3/4" dia. opening?

To answer your question, I was planning on putting some vinegar & salt in the
pot & run it hard to clean anything that may have gotten in there over the last
30...50....100??? years.

I am going to leave the outside of the pot as-is. I dont want to polish off the
history of the still.

Thanks again for your help........JJ




--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, virgil hoskins <varminteater2003@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi JJ,, that great that you found your top, and your on your way again
> I was just a a shop tonight and seen a stainless steel dog water dish that
would have worked
> for a top,, so cool a copper pot sounds great ,, and for your question ,, your
beautiful antique pot
> pretty much had there liebig or steam cone/ or pipe came out the side to a
thump keg and then to a cooling coil
> and down into a barrel with water to cool the shine steam and then collected
in jars or jugs.
> just a good old family still.
> now as you look farther into our stills you`ll find different still tops for
different areas,,,
> none were streight up pipes like the new reflux stills we have today.
> my quetion back toyou is how are you going to clean your pot out before you
use it ,, and how?
> next ,, are you going to shine the outside as well or keep it antique?
> virgil
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: johnjab01 <johnjab01@...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 2:07 PM
> Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Pot still cap
>
>  
> OK...I'm in the process of making my own cap. One question I have, should I
have the cap discharge out the top, or out the side? I found a 6" dia copper
bucket that I'm going to modify to fit, so the top of the cap will be the flat
bottom of the bucket.
>
> I have seen stills discharge out the top & out the side. Which do you think is
best, or does it really matter?
>
> Thanks....JJ
>
> --- In mailto:new_distillers%40yahoogroups.com, virgil hoskins
<varminteater2003@> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning JJ
> > Well it looks like a high dollar fix to plug a hole that size,, would you be
willing to cut the threaded area
> > out/ off and replate it with a 2in, threaded hole ?,, is the area rounded or
flat?
> > if its flat you can have the hole tapped already before installing it,
> > if it is a round area, the plate may have to be installed first then taped/
well or soldered in place
> > to form with the curved area,, and i dont like the idea of using brass in a
still ,,copper or stainless only
> > let us know what you come up with,,do you have a machine shop close to you?
> > they will tap your 2in, hole pretty fast ,
> > virgil
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: johnjab01 <johnjab01@>
> > To: mailto:new_distillers%40yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 3:16 PM
> > Subject: [new_distillers] Pot still cap
> >
> >  
> > Does anyone have a good source for brass/copper threaded caps? I dug up an
old pot still that has a threaded opening of 5 13/16". I'm trying to come up
with a cap to make it functional again.
> >
> > Thanks......JJ
> >
>

has anyone tried the keg with the electric heating element

Thanks for the reply Virgil,

I responed to this once, but Yahoo must have glitched...

I have my cap about done. It looks like a chimney pipe cap/plug. sticking off
the top of the still. It came out fairly well, I cut the top rolled edge &
handle off & crimped the cut edge. I will use flour paste for a better seal
around the cap during the run.

I am still contemplating my vapor escape. I really want to come off the top of
the cap(bottom of bucket)because of the nice flate surface. I want to put a
copper 90 degree fitting coming out of it which will attach to the copper worm.
Do you think a 3/4" fitting out the top would suffice?

To answer your question. I plan on running the unit hard with vinegar & salt to
clean out any impurities that may have accumulated over the years. I plan on
leaving the copper as-is I dont want to polish off any history of the still,
just add more!

Thanks again..........John






--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, virgil hoskins <varminteater2003@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi JJ,, that great that you found your top, and your on your way again
> I was just a a shop tonight and seen a stainless steel dog water dish that
would have worked
> for a top,, so cool a copper pot sounds great ,, and for your question ,, your
beautiful antique pot
> pretty much had there liebig or steam cone/ or pipe came out the side to a
thump keg and then to a cooling coil
> and down into a barrel with water to cool the shine steam and then collected
in jars or jugs.
> just a good old family still.
> now as you look farther into our stills you`ll find different still tops for
different areas,,,
> none were streight up pipes like the new reflux stills we have today.
> my quetion back toyou is how are you going to clean your pot out before you
use it ,, and how?
> next ,, are you going to shine the outside as well or keep it antique?
> virgil
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: johnjab01 <johnjab01@...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 2:07 PM
> Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Pot still cap
>
>  
> OK...I'm in the process of making my own cap. One question I have, should I
have the cap discharge out the top, or out the side? I found a 6" dia copper
bucket that I'm going to modify to fit, so the top of the cap will be the flat
bottom of the bucket.
>
> I have seen stills discharge out the top & out the side. Which do you think is
best, or does it really matter?
>
> Thanks....JJ
>
> --- In mailto:new_distillers%40yahoogroups.com, virgil hoskins
<varminteater2003@> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning JJ
> > Well it looks like a high dollar fix to plug a hole that size,, would you be
willing to cut the threaded area
> > out/ off and replate it with a 2in, threaded hole ?,, is the area rounded or
flat?
> > if its flat you can have the hole tapped already before installing it,
> > if it is a round area, the plate may have to be installed first then taped/
well or soldered in place
> > to form with the curved area,, and i dont like the idea of using brass in a
still ,,copper or stainless only
> > let us know what you come up with,,do you have a machine shop close to you?
> > they will tap your 2in, hole pretty fast ,
> > virgil
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: johnjab01 <johnjab01@>
> > To: mailto:new_distillers%40yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 3:16 PM
> > Subject: [new_distillers] Pot still cap
> >
> >  
> > Does anyone have a good source for brass/copper threaded caps? I dug up an
old pot still that has a threaded opening of 5 13/16". I'm trying to come up
with a cap to make it functional again.
> >
> > Thanks......JJ
> >
>

JerryM,

I made a gasket for my boiler from a silicone strip held in place with silicone
adhesive/sealant.  I purchased both from McMaster Carr.

The silicone sealant, #732 Clear, comes in a tube, Catalog # 7587A37 and the
silicone strip, 1/8" thick, x 1/2" wide x 36" long, Catalog # 8417K12 are both
FDA Compliant, food safe.

I have had good luck with this combination.

Tom



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "JerryM" <jkmccull@...> wrote:
>
> I use a still that I fabricated from a 15 gallon beer keg. When I install the
still head, I use a cork gasket made from material that I bought at an
automotive parts store. The cork is thicker than most cork and is not cheap.
>
> I have discoverd that after a run if the cork gasket drys out, it will shrink
and become un-usable. So to prevent that, I store the gasket in water. I have
tried tap water, distilled water and water with Clean-Pro(distillers
disinfectant). Eventually the gasket gets slimey. Does not smell, but it is
kinda of icky.
>
> I am not sure if the slime is a problem, just seems unhealthy to me. Anyhow,
does anyone have any suggestions on a different gasket material or another way
to store the gasket that avoids the slime?
>
> Neophrene and similar gasket material that I can find locally is too thin to
get a good seal.
>
> Thanks
>

Go to www.McMaster.com. They have all types of rubbers and sizes. Its very easy to find what you want because the give examples for use of the material. And they have warehouse all over the place.