Warning to all out there contemplating using galvanized materials in the
construction of a stil..... STAY AWAY FROM IT!!!!!!  Can cause Antimony
Poisoning.  (This may be why you no longer find drink coolers made with the
stuff!)

Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: <MtrcyclMon@...>
To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 1:41 PM
Subject: [new_distillers] Galvanized Steel or Iron.


> Hello,
>
> I've read through the backlog of messages and haven't found an answer
> on Galvanized Steel for a boiler.
>
> does anyone use one or know of the potential hazards?
>
>
> Any information would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>
>
>

How much sugar are you using ?  4L is ok if you're using say 5.5 to 6 kg,
but it might be that you need to stop collecting at around 3.5 to 3.7 L if
only using 5 kg sugar (typical bag size).  Otherwise you might simply be
diluting it too much by collecting too many tails.  eg stop sooner while the
purity is still higher.

But, anyhow, to improve the still a little bit, you can put some stainless
steel scrubbing pad in the column, and increase the cooling rate in the
cooling collar by inc the water flowrate.  Other than that, you're up for
replacing the column with one a bit taller, with better reflux control, and
decent packing.

Tony

if you decide to use a galvanised boiler for your still and decide to drink
the stuff , make sure that you have a prepaid funeral plan so your passing
away will not be a burden on the remaining family members.


>From: "Roger Ferguson" <referguson@...>
>Reply-To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Galvanized Steel or Iron.
>Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:24:20 -0800
>
>Warning to all out there contemplating using galvanized materials in the
>construction of a stil..... STAY AWAY FROM IT!!!!!!  Can cause Antimony
>Poisoning.  (This may be why you no longer find drink coolers made with the
>stuff!)
>
>Roger
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <MtrcyclMon@...>
>To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 1:41 PM
>Subject: [new_distillers] Galvanized Steel or Iron.
>
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I've read through the backlog of messages and haven't found an answer
> > on Galvanized Steel for a boiler.
> >
> > does anyone use one or know of the potential hazards?
> >
> >
> > Any information would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > -Tim
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Double Distillation, Why? How?

>Double Distillation, Why? How?

Why : to make the alcohol more pure - remove some more of the flavours &
smell, turn it into a neutral spirit.

How : clean out the pot still, and put the distillate back in for a second
time.  Pay a bit more attention this time - its going to boil a bit
quicker, and the vapours will be a bit more explosive.

or have a reflux column, and do the equivalent of up to 10 distillations in
a single pass.  This is how you get purities of 95%+ (ie right up near the
theoretical limit)

Tony

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: redmage@... [mailto:redmage@...]
Verzonden: dinsdag 30 januari 2001 2:23
Aan: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Onderwerp: [new_distillers] Reflux still


Hi all

I have a still spirit’s reflux still and I'm getting around 65-67% with 4
liters of spirit.

Are there any “simple” modifications that I can do to the still to get a
higher percentage?

Many thanks
Barry



Barry,
you're probable boiling your wash too hard; try gentle simmering.
there could also be improvement in your packing (use stainless steel pot
scrubbers)
at least you should be able to get 85-90%; if you want more (upto 96%) buy
or build a real reflux still like the Nixon/Stone design.
success,
Rob van Leuven

--- Tony & Elle Ackland
<Tony.Ackland@...> wrote: >
>Double Distillation, Why? How?
>
> Why : to make the alcohol more pure - remove some
> more of the flavours &
> smell, turn it into a neutral spirit.
>
> How : clean out the pot still, and put the
> distillate back in for a second
> time.  Pay a bit more attention this time - its
> going to boil a bit
> quicker, and the vapours will be a bit more
> explosive.
>
> or have a reflux column, and do the equivalent of up
> to 10 distillations in
> a single pass.  This is how you get purities of 95%+
> (ie right up near the
> theoretical limit)
>
> Tony
>
> Hi Tony and Elle, With patience and not trying to
rush the reflux a very pure taitless spirit can be
produced. Also if you work hard and make more than you
will be drinking you can lay it down and let it age
for the really smooth product for the discening
drinker regards ken
>


__________________________________________________
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

--- stroker@... wrote: > Can anybody tell me if
i can use a household light
> dimmer switch as a
> power controller for a 1000watt immersion heater. I
> found a 2000watt
> light dimmer switch which i would think is plenty
> big, but not really
> sure?. The dimmer switch is rated at 2000watt and
> has a rotary knob.
>
> Hi, Yes this dimmer should work fine. People tend
not to use them mainly because of the cost ie very
expensive I know the company in the UK that made these
2Kw ones stopped making them. There is a supplier of
a small all in one unit which you have to mount your
self they charge around 25 pounds for one.
regards ken
>


__________________________________________________
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

Hi All,

I am new to the group, what a group!!  I have a Euro Still, the 30
model which will hold 20 liters or so per batch.  My goal is to have
plenty of wash fermented to distill from.

Can I ferment in a 55 gallon drum, and then distill as needed?

Will I run into any problems making a wash so big?

Has any one tried this?

If any one can be of any guidence it would be great help!!!! Thanks

Thank-You,

John

hello all, I'm a very newbie and this is my first post!
I have 2 questions,
1. I know how the spirit came to be blue, but how do I get it out?
It's already been distilled twice.
2. I'm having a great deal of difficulty understanding the carbon
process, although have read thousands of pages about it (must be the
missing brain cells!) I'd like some help on exactly how musc of the
stuff to put in what, how long to leave it and how to differentiate
between the different types if they're not clearly labelled when I
buy them.
thanks, I hope someone can help me.
Narni.

I am trying to decide between these 2 column designs,
and would love to get some advice? I am leaning toward
the stone/nixon design, as it appears to be cheaper
and easier to construct.

If I go with the Nixon/Stone, are there any suggested
modifications?

If I were to go with the Stillmaker, would it be
better to modify the design so that I don't have
cooling pipes running through the top and bottom of
the still? Should I have both the cooling tubes
running through the top of the still, or the bottom.

Sorry for not being more concise, I would invariable
have misused the terms and misstated my questions. I
think it is best to just leave it open ended and
vague. Please all thoughts are welcome. I just don't
have the technical knowledge to evaluate which still
design is better.

Thanks for you help.

____________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

I question whether this would be a problem after all.  (I'm not
saying USE galvanized metal in a boiler, but I do question whether it
truly would be a problem).  (DISCLAIMER) By no means do I recommend
the use of toxic metals in the construction of a boiler, and the
argument I present here is hypothetical and for discussion in theory
only!

Unless I'm mistaken, it's Zinc which is used in galvanizing metal.
Trace amounts of zinc are present in certain yeast nutrients which
are routinely used in making beer and wine.  Even the lead free
solder used in the construction of most copper stills contains zinc.
People routinely ingest zinc when taking certain vitimins.  I am,
however, quite sure that zinc, like most metals, would be poisonous
in high enough concentrations.  In fact, I've heard stories of
batches of ahcoholic punch being mixed up in galvanized tubs with
acidic fruit juices and resulting in poisoning to the people who
consumed the punch.

Regardless, metal salts may leach into hot or acidic liquid, but they
are insoluable in steam.  If the zinc plating were to leach from the
boiler to the liquid, once the liquid was converted to steam in the
process of distillation, the metal salts would be left behind.
Theoretically, lead, cadmium, or chunks of any other non-radioactive
toxic metal could be tossed into the boiler itself without danger.
Distillation is used to purify water precisely BECAUSE of this
characteristic.  The only way I could forsee dissolved zinc salts
getting into the distillate from the boiler itself would be if a too
violent boil caused surging and liquid from the boiler burped into
the condenser.

A far greater danger would be hazardous metals used in the
condensation portion of the still where warm distillate could
dissolve metal salts that would remain in the liquid to be consumed.
The lead poisoning so frequently mentioned as a hazard of moonshine
consumption was caused by warm liquid distillate dissolving lead
salts from lead soldered auto radiator condensers and the like.

In THEORY, a zinc plated (galvanized) boiler should be safe to use. I
don't think I would want to use one in reality though!

Dissenting opinions welcomed!  I enjoy this kind of discussion!

Tar

--- In new_distillers@y..., "janpam ooms" <janpamooms@h...> wrote:
> if you decide to use a galvanised boiler for your still and decide
to drink
> the stuff , make sure that you have a prepaid funeral plan so your
passing
> away will not be a burden on the remaining family members.
>
>
> >From: "Roger Ferguson" <referguson@e...>
> >Reply-To: new_distillers@y...
> >To: <new_distillers@y...>
> >Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Galvanized Steel or Iron.
> >Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:24:20 -0800
> >
> >Warning to all out there contemplating using galvanized materials
in the
> >construction of a stil..... STAY AWAY FROM IT!!!!!!  Can cause
Antimony
> >Poisoning.  (This may be why you no longer find drink coolers made
with the
> >stuff!)
> >
> >Roger
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <MtrcyclMon@a...>
> >To: <new_distillers@y...>
> >Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 1:41 PM
> >Subject: [new_distillers] Galvanized Steel or Iron.
> >
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I've read through the backlog of messages and haven't found an
answer
> > > on Galvanized Steel for a boiler.
> > >
> > > does anyone use one or know of the potential hazards?
> > >
> > >
> > > Any information would be greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > -Tim
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
___
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com.

About 4 weeks ago I was surfin the net and came across the distilling
of booze.Within 1 week I had a still built and in operation.
Since then I have come across this site and others that have filled
my mind with so much info. that I dont know wether I am comming or
going.I have a couple of questions that I would like answers to.These
questions I will ask at the end of this post.
The still I built was from various designs I came across in the first
week and it seems to work ok.
I made it from a 8litre electric urn with a 1500 watt heater with a
thermostat.
The reflux column is made of s/steel 50mmx650mm high stuffed with
s/steel pot scrubbers and the condenser is aprox 30 cm long with the
cooling water from the tap going into the top of the condenser.

The first batch of wort to go in was 6 litres and produced 1200 mls
of spirit.
1)500mls   68%alc     tower temp at top   84.5  deg
2)500mls   60% "       "     "    "  "    89.0   "
3)200mls   40% "       "     "    "  "    90.0   "

The flow stopped at this stage.

The next 3 lots to go through were about the same and produced aprox
the same amounts. The temp of the spirit was 35deg out of the
condenser.

When the spirit was distilled the 2nd time things changed a fair bit.
I had 4250 mls of aprox 65% spirit which I added 1 litre of distilled
water to and started to distill it.These are the results.


1)500mls   85%alc      tower temp at top   77.5 deg  spirit 54deg
2)1000 "   85% "         "     "   "  "    78.5  "     "    48 "
3)500  "   75% "         "     "   "  "    80.0  "     "    39 "
4)500  "   70% "         "     "   "  "    83.5  "     "    34 "
5)500  "   65% "         "     "   "  "    87.0  "     "    32 "

I had to turn the temp down on the pot a little as the flow started
at a much lower temp.
This whole process took 75 minutes from start to finish.

The first question is,is the temp of the tower too high on the first
run distilling the wort?( if so how do I change that?)
And are the temps in the second run near what they should be?

The second is,should the tower be insulated and why?

                        Kind regards Jack Ricks
                          Mandurah West Aussie

Go to "www.partyman.se" and you should be able to get some info there.
I have a pvc pipe about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter and about 3 meters
in length. I fill it about 2/3 full with .5 to 1mm activated carbon used for
filtering liquids that I obtained from "Calgon Carbon Corporation" and I run
about 2 liters before changing the carbon.  I clamp two plain, ordinary
coffee filters on one end of the pipe, just in case you were wondering. The
end result is a crystal clear "sprite" (you know what I mean).  Keep your
filtering pipe clean.  You can easily see the carbon residue after each run
inside of the pipe.  Oh! Also, I throw away the first 10 to 20 cc or 2-4
teaspoons of the filtrate because it may have a bluish discoloration, but
that soon clears.  Good luck!


>From: hinarn@...
>Reply-To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [new_distillers] blue spirit/carbon
>Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 03:14:55 -0000
>
>hello all, I'm a very newbie and this is my first post!
>I have 2 questions,
>1. I know how the spirit came to be blue, but how do I get it out?
>It's already been distilled twice.
>2. I'm having a great deal of difficulty understanding the carbon
>process, although have read thousands of pages about it (must be the
>missing brain cells!) I'd like some help on exactly how musc of the
>stuff to put in what, how long to leave it and how to differentiate
>between the different types if they're not clearly labelled when I
>buy them.
>thanks, I hope someone can help me.
>Narni.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Hi Frank,I started with a Labmaster unit and only ran it 3 times as
purchased before I made a Nixon/Stone tower to replace the origonal one.The
Quality of the end product now is truly outstanding,I made my tower out of
50mm.316 S/S tube,1250mm.high and have had the condenser coil Tin plated to
stop any tarnishing from the vapour.From a 25 lt.wash I get9 lts of
spirit,4to5lts @ 95%+,I stop collecting at 85o and the average for the whole
run is93%.Happy hunting.
Regards Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Hammond" <frankhammond2000@...>
To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 31 January 2001 15:00
Subject: [new_distillers] stone/nixon v. stillmaker


> I am trying to decide between these 2 column designs,
> and would love to get some advice? I am leaning toward
> the stone/nixon design, as it appears to be cheaper
> and easier to construct.
>
> If I go with the Nixon/Stone, are there any suggested
> modifications?
>
> If I were to go with the Stillmaker, would it be
> better to modify the design so that I don't have
> cooling pipes running through the top and bottom of
> the still? Should I have both the cooling tubes
> running through the top of the still, or the bottom.
>
> Sorry for not being more concise, I would invariable
> have misused the terms and misstated my questions. I
> think it is best to just leave it open ended and
> vague. Please all thoughts are welcome. I just don't
> have the technical knowledge to evaluate which still
> design is better.
>
> Thanks for you help.
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>
>

i  have been distilling for 3 years now with pots and pans
now right up to my own reflux @ 93 %
and have always fermented in 30 liter brew tubs
if you stuff up a brew in one of these it costs you arond 20 aus dollars

stuff up a 44 gallon drum and it cost u $$$$$ (dont no how much)
the size is hard to move and store and keep cool during early fermentation

my way is not the only way but it is an easy way
and if u brew a 44 gallon drum u will only need to distill once
a year ( hahaha)
and half the fun in this hobby/sport is tinkering with your still

----------
> From: rastabusin_nc@...
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [new_distillers] Green, & Anxious!
> Date: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 10:30
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am new to the group, what a group!!  I have a Euro Still, the 30
> model which will hold 20 liters or so per batch.  My goal is to have
> plenty of wash fermented to distill from.
>
> Can I ferment in a 55 gallon drum, and then distill as needed?
>
> Will I run into any problems making a wash so big?
>
> Has any one tried this?
>
> If any one can be of any guidence it would be great help!!!! Thanks
>
> Thank-You,
>
> John
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>

Jack do u have cooling pipes going through the tower
to adjust the heat of the tower vapour and to
reflux the vapour?

check out tonys web sight for picks and links
he posts here often

sounds like you are on the right track but maybe temp
was to high first run
running at above 90 deg u are just using a pot still type still i reckon

i built my own reflux design copying from a few different stills
and get 93%  but the temp in the top of the tower never goes
over 79 deg  if i control the water carefully
and when it does (tails) i turn it off and chuck it out
out of 30 liters (to runs in my 17 liter pot) i get 9   750mls @ 40%
after watering down for 16 aus dollars (then have to filter and flavour and
store)
it takes me 5 hours to distill 17 liters

good luck with future runs




----------
> From: secondhandjack@...
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [new_distillers] 1st Timer at distilling
> Date: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 4:49
>
> About 4 weeks ago I was surfin the net and came across the distilling
> of booze.Within 1 week I had a still built and in operation.
> Since then I have come across this site and others that have filled
> my mind with so much info. that I dont know wether I am comming or
> going.I have a couple of questions that I would like answers to.These
> questions I will ask at the end of this post.
> The still I built was from various designs I came across in the first
> week and it seems to work ok.
> I made it from a 8litre electric urn with a 1500 watt heater with a
> thermostat.
> The reflux column is made of s/steel 50mmx650mm high stuffed with
> s/steel pot scrubbers and the condenser is aprox 30 cm long with the
> cooling water from the tap going into the top of the condenser.
>
> The first batch of wort to go in was 6 litres and produced 1200 mls
> of spirit.
> 1)500mls   68%alc     tower temp at top   84.5  deg
> 2)500mls   60% "       "     "    "  "    89.0   "
> 3)200mls   40% "       "     "    "  "    90.0   "
>
> The flow stopped at this stage.
>
> The next 3 lots to go through were about the same and produced aprox
> the same amounts. The temp of the spirit was 35deg out of the
> condenser.
>
> When the spirit was distilled the 2nd time things changed a fair bit.
> I had 4250 mls of aprox 65% spirit which I added 1 litre of distilled
> water to and started to distill it.These are the results.
>
>
> 1)500mls   85%alc      tower temp at top   77.5 deg  spirit 54deg
> 2)1000 "   85% "         "     "   "  "    78.5  "     "    48 "
> 3)500  "   75% "         "     "   "  "    80.0  "     "    39 "
> 4)500  "   70% "         "     "   "  "    83.5  "     "    34 "
> 5)500  "   65% "         "     "   "  "    87.0  "     "    32 "
>
> I had to turn the temp down on the pot a little as the flow started
> at a much lower temp.
> This whole process took 75 minutes from start to finish.
>
> The first question is,is the temp of the tower too high on the first
> run distilling the wort?( if so how do I change that?)
> And are the temps in the second run near what they should be?
>
> The second is,should the tower be insulated and why?
>
>                        Kind regards Jack Ricks
>                          Mandurah West Aussie
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>

i just thought it would be cheap to get a 44 gallon drum
and set it up
i tried with a brew bucket 30 liters and used lots of ice
(energy to make ice was waste ful and a big job)
size of 44 kept in shade depending on where u live would
cool for a while ( i live in a hot place 40 deg in the shade and all my
ice goes into my scotch and dry :-)

----------
> From: Johno Oz <OzBrickie@...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Water circulation query?
> Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 10:10
>
> am I missing something?
> 44 gallons
> do I really need such a reservoir? I plan on cooling it.
> My 351 running straight LPG only uses 10 litres! How can a fractionating
> column at 78 C need 200 plus?
>
>
> >From: "leeham collins" <leeham@...>
> >Reply-To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> >To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Water circulation query?
> >Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 06:46:05 +1000
> >
> >i have tried the reservoir idea with my spirts unlimited pot still and
> >works
> >ok but u have to watch the temp of the cooling water
> >
> >i dont use a res on my reflux  as it uses a lot less water and i run it
> >into the yard
> >to water the grass
> >
> >tonys idea about the water slightly warmer in the colum is a good one
thats
> >
> >how i run mine and get 93%
> >
> >how big a reserviour are u planing??????
> >i reckon no smaller than a 44 gallon drum to make things easy
> >but will you tip it out once finished???
> >try running the cooling water in to a bucket to see how much u need per
min
> >and caculate the usage??
> >
> >----------
> >From: Oz <OzBrickie@...>
> >To: New Distillers <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: [new_distillers] Water circulation query?
> >Date: Saturday, January 27, 2001 9:10
> >
> >I am recirculating my coolant and was wondering if there is any
> >disadvantages to running water in one circuit through condenser and
column?
> >My condenser is 500mm long, 25mm discharge with 37mm jacket. Column has
> >12.5mm pipe in a "U" at the top.Unlike some I have the condenser running
at
> >45 deg. away from the column to avoid heat from an external heat
source.I
> >plan on dropping esky coolers in the reservoir.
> >If one curcuit is ok which direction should it flow?
> >Can anyone suggest whether my design is sound as Im a first timer and
have
> >amalgamated my construction plan on the theory put forward in this group
> >and the excellent Kiwi Distiller web site.
> >
> >thanks
> >Johno
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>

>Can I ferment in a 55 gallon drum, and then distill as needed?
>Will I run into any problems making a wash so big?

You may have problems keeping it cool.  The yeast put out a fair bit of
energy while doing their business, and can overheat themselves.  Commercial
systems have cooling tubes through their fermenters to avoid this.
Hobbyist's can use say ice (toss in a couple of frozen 2L softdrink bottles
of ice) or an evaporative system (wet towels & a fan) to try and keep the
fermenter cool.  Smaller fermenters get around this by having a larger
surface area, relative to the amount of wash inside, over which to lose the
heat (and most actually need some form of heating to ensure it doesn't cool
too much!)

Once fermented, the wash should be OK for a couple of weeks, provided you
keep air out of it.  Air (oxygen) will encourage the alcohol to oxidise
(become vinegar).  Thus the dilemma of how to get the wash out, without
getting air in, particularly if you're doing say 5 gallon batches.  Maybe
some sort of arrangement using CO2 for kegging beer to purge it ?

Tony

On 31 Jan 01, at 4:00, Frank Hammond wrote:

> I am trying to decide between these 2 column designs,
> and would love to get some advice? I am leaning toward
> the stone/nixon design, as it appears to be cheaper
> and easier to construct.
I have built both. Go with the Stone/ Nixon you will not be sorry.  It is
a superior design based on sound theory. A particular strength is
the way it allows you to control the reflux ratio simply and accurately.
> If I go with the Nixon/Stone, are there any suggested
> modifications?
I have never felt modifications were needed and I like modifying
things.

Hi Narni
The cause of your problem is an excess of nutrient during the ferment, more
particularly an excess of Diamonium Phosphate which when not used up reacts with
the copper in your still and turns the alcohol blue, you will also find your
alcohol smells of Amonia. To fix the problem mix 50 gm of Citric Acid with 5 ltr
of the alcohol. The blue will precipitate out. pour the good alcohol off the
blue in the bottom carefuly and then redistil the spirit.
Regards
Ray

> Message: 7
>    Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 03:14:55 -0000
>    From: hinarn@...
> Subject: blue spirit/carbon
>
> hello all, I'm a very newbie and this is my first post!
> I have 2 questions,
> 1. I know how the spirit came to be blue, but how do I get it out?
> It's already been distilled twice.
> 2. I'm having a great deal of difficulty understanding the carbon
> process, although have read thousands of pages about it (must be the
> missing brain cells!) I'd like some help on exactly how musc of the
> stuff to put in what, how long to leave it and how to differentiate
> between the different types if they're not clearly labelled when I
> buy them.
> thanks, I hope someone can help me.
> Narni.
>
--
Ray Toms Moonshine Supplies, Taupo. New Zealand.
http://moonshine.co.nz
Home Brewing Equipment and Suppliers.
Specialists in all aspects of Home Distillation and Wine/Beer Making.

--- In new_distillers@y..., "Giles" <giles@p...> wrote:
> On 31 Jan 01, at 4:00, Frank Hammond wrote:
>
> > I am trying to decide between these 2 column designs,
> > and would love to get some advice? I am leaning toward
> > the stone/nixon design, as it appears to be cheaper
> > and easier to construct.
> I have built both. Go with the Stone/ Nixon you will not be sorry.
It is
> a superior design based on sound theory. A particular strength is
> the way it allows you to control the reflux ratio simply and
accurately.
> > If I go with the Nixon/Stone, are there any suggested
> > modifications?
> I have never felt modifications were needed and I like modifying
> things.

Hi Giles.
I've just built a stillmaker still but hav'nt done a run yet.
But will be shortly.
My question is..
Why don't you reccomend this type of still?.
Many thanks in advance.
Martin.....

Ken
	 Some time back I built a Nixon/stone design using 50 mm S/S tube
with a 6mm copper condenser coil about 400mm long on there alternative
stillhead design (no bend).  I found that I could not condense all of the
steam rising and I was loosing product to the atmosphere  (Approx 2.6 mj /
Hour or .7 kw , output = 63 ml per min no reflux) , no matter how much
cooling water I threw at the condenser.  My assumption was that as I had
increased the tube size from there design of 30 - 35mm to 50mm. I was having
problems bringing the steam in contact with coil due to the larger internal
area in the 50mm tube.  I then changed the design to a  600 mm jacketed
condenser (35 mm bore) but still had problem with steam escaping out of the
top.  I eventually added 12 x 30mm S/S welsh plugs suspended on a 4mm S/S
rod inside the condenser to force the steam closer to the cooling surface
and this resolved my problem.

My question :
1. Have you experienced problems of ethanol vapour rising out of the top of
the stillhead
2. If yes how have you overcome this problem
3. Do you know what you energy input is (KW or Mj)
4. Can you let me know what your product output is ml/min (No Reflux)
5. What is the boiler temperature when you stop the run ( My interest here
is for the % of alcohol remaining in the boiler.  The reading would need to
be with a thermometer that you had calibrated against boiling water 100c)

I have concerns with the safety of the open still head design as there is a
chance of volatile vapours escaping from the top of the still head as well
as the product output is also hot and releasing vapours to the atmosphere
which could ignite or worse explode if the still was used in an enclosed
environment.
Are you others concerned with the escaping vapours or could this be my
previous experience has made me wary.

Mark

> -----Original Message-----
> From: klcampbell [SMTP:klcampbell@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, 31 January 2001 09:03 pm
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [new_distillers] stone/nixon v. stillmaker
>
> Hi Frank,I started with a Labmaster unit and only ran it 3 times as
> purchased before I made a Nixon/Stone tower to replace the origonal
> one.The
> Quality of the end product now is truly outstanding,I made my tower out of
> 50mm.316 S/S tube,1250mm.high and have had the condenser coil Tin plated
> to
> stop any tarnishing from the vapour.From a 25 lt.wash I get9 lts of
> spirit,4to5lts @ 95%+,I stop collecting at 85o and the average for the
> whole
> run is93%.Happy hunting.
> Regards Ken
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Hammond" <frankhammond2000@...>
> To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, 31 January 2001 15:00
> Subject: [new_distillers] stone/nixon v. stillmaker
>
>
> > I am trying to decide between these 2 column designs,
> > and would love to get some advice? I am leaning toward
> > the stone/nixon design, as it appears to be cheaper
> > and easier to construct.
> >
> > If I go with the Nixon/Stone, are there any suggested
> > modifications?
> >
> > If I were to go with the Stillmaker, would it be
> > better to modify the design so that I don't have
> > cooling pipes running through the top and bottom of
> > the still? Should I have both the cooling tubes
> > running through the top of the still, or the bottom.
> >
> > Sorry for not being more concise, I would invariable
> > have misused the terms and misstated my questions. I
> > think it is best to just leave it open ended and
> > vague. Please all thoughts are welcome. I just don't
> > have the technical knowledge to evaluate which still
> > design is better.
> >
> > Thanks for you help.
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> > or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>

I haven't yet run my Nixon/Stone condensor in reflux mode, but have used it
for "beer-stripping" - eg first pass of wash through a pot style still.  I
did this just by sitting the condensor on 20cm length of 1 inch pipe off the
top of the pot, with the valve fully open (no reflux).  I plan to do this to
say 3 x 20L washs, collecting about 6L off each at around 40-65% (eg hammer
it up to about 97.4C).  These will be combined to then be run through in
reflux mode.

But its given me a fairly good idea of how well it handles 1380 W power
input.

Cooling water was at 0.825 L per minute, heating from approx 10C ? (didn't
measure) up to an outlet temperature of 40C

My coil is approx 30mm outside diameter, and is sited in a 1.5 inch (36mm)
pipe - eg its very close to the walls of it.  Any loose vapour getting past
it would be doing so up the centre of the coil.  So to avoid that, I've put
a little bit of stainless steel scouring pad in the centre of the coil.

Distillate came through at around 50 mL/min.

No puffs of steam observed out the top.

The bottom 1/3 of the coil is now nice and shiny - eg only that portion
looks to be contacting any vapour.  I'd be happy to run it up to 2.5 kW
based on just that.

Doing a water/steam only run gave similar results.  This is the harder test
for it, as more energy is required to condense steam than to condense
alcohol.

Tony

Tony
	 I have assumed that you used 5 mm copper for the condenser coil.
This would give an internal diameter of 20 mm on the condenser. My original
design had an id of 38mm and this may have been the cause of my problem.
The steam could rise through the middle of the condenser without contacting
the condenser.  Maybe there a valuable lesson here in changing the design
from 1.5 inch to 2 inch tube.  You may need to add deflection plates to
direct the steam through the condenser.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ackland, Tony (CALNZAS) [SMTP:Tony.Ackland@...]
> Sent: Thursday, 1 February 2001 10:11 am
> To: 'new_distillers@yahoogroups.com'
> Subject: RE: [new_distillers] stone/nixon v. stillmaker
>
> I haven't yet run my Nixon/Stone condensor in reflux mode, but have used
> it
> for "beer-stripping" - eg first pass of wash through a pot style still.  I
> did this just by sitting the condensor on 20cm length of 1 inch pipe off
> the
> top of the pot, with the valve fully open (no reflux).  I plan to do this
> to
> say 3 x 20L washs, collecting about 6L off each at around 40-65% (eg
> hammer
> it up to about 97.4C).  These will be combined to then be run through in
> reflux mode.
>
> But its given me a fairly good idea of how well it handles 1380 W power
> input.
>
> Cooling water was at 0.825 L per minute, heating from approx 10C ? (didn't
> measure) up to an outlet temperature of 40C
>
> My coil is approx 30mm outside diameter, and is sited in a 1.5 inch (36mm)
> pipe - eg its very close to the walls of it.  Any loose vapour getting
> past
> it would be doing so up the centre of the coil.  So to avoid that, I've
> put
> a little bit of stainless steel scouring pad in the centre of the coil.
>
> Distillate came through at around 50 mL/min.
>
> No puffs of steam observed out the top.
>
> The bottom 1/3 of the coil is now nice and shiny - eg only that portion
> looks to be contacting any vapour.  I'd be happy to run it up to 2.5 kW
> based on just that.
>
> Doing a water/steam only run gave similar results.  This is the harder
> test
> for it, as more energy is required to condense steam than to condense
> alcohol.
>
> Tony
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> new_distillers-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>

>The steam could rise through the middle of the condenser
>without contacting the condenser.

correct - that's why I felt like putting in the scrubbers.  Thought that
they'd cool a little by being in contact with the coil, and just provide
something easily across the center for the vapour to contact & condense on,
but without compromising the basic safety feature of keeping the condenser
section basically open / at atmospheric pressure.

My only concern is if the stainless steel & copper are going to set up a wee
galvanic circuit and start corroding when wet .......


Tony

Anybody know where I can find the design and specs for the
Stone/Nixon?

Beginners question.


--- In new_distillers@y..., "Ackland, Tony (CALNZAS)"
<Tony.Ackland@c...> wrote:
>
> >The steam could rise through the middle of the condenser
> >without contacting the condenser.
>
> correct - that's why I felt like putting in the scrubbers.  Thought
that
> they'd cool a little by being in contact with the coil, and just
provide
> something easily across the center for the vapour to contact &
condense on,
> but without compromising the basic safety feature of keeping the
condenser
> section basically open / at atmospheric pressure.
>
> My only concern is if the stainless steel & copper are going to set
up a wee
> galvanic circuit and start corroding when wet .......
>
>
> Tony

Anybody know where I can find the design and specs for the
Stone/Nixon?


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