hi there my good friends
as i move to ferment bigger mashes
before i make a expensive mistakes
would a 600plus liter ferment behave same a a 200liter mash

would u add naything special
thanks for the advise

600 Liters hey?

Hope you bought a larger still then that little alembic you have lol.
As long as you add sufficient nutrients and yeast, it really should
ferment about the same.  If you think how the commercial guys do it -
fermenting 1000s of gallons at a time, the whiskey makers here do that
in less then 5 days.  Just think large scale - what type of fermenter
are you using for that much?  The commercial distillers have cooling
pipes running through their fermenters - you may also have to think
about that.

So Bossy, with your license are you planning on bottling your product
and selling it commercially?

JB. aka Waldo.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravo" <bravoseychelles@...>
wrote:
>
> hi there my good friends
> as i move to ferment bigger mashes
> before i make a expensive mistakes
> would a 600plus liter ferment behave same a a 200liter mash
>
> would u add naything special
> thanks for the advise
>

Another thing Bossy,

For large fermentations, they also use stirrers that keep the
fermentation in continuous motion..  If I remember right, you have a
commercial rum distillery in the Seychelles Islands - you should pay
them a visit and watch their operation - get some insight on a large
operation....

JB.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
wrote:
>
> 600 Liters hey?
>
> Hope you bought a larger still then that little alembic you have lol.
> As long as you add sufficient nutrients and yeast, it really should
> ferment about the same.  If you think how the commercial guys do it -
> fermenting 1000s of gallons at a time, the whiskey makers here do that
> in less then 5 days.  Just think large scale - what type of fermenter
> are you using for that much?  The commercial distillers have cooling
> pipes running through their fermenters - you may also have to think
> about that.
>
> So Bossy, with your license are you planning on bottling your product
> and selling it commercially?
>
> JB. aka Waldo.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravo" bravoseychelles@
> wrote:
> >
> > hi there my good friends
> > as i move to ferment bigger mashes
> > before i make a expensive mistakes
> > would a 600plus liter ferment behave same a a 200liter mash
> >
> > would u add naything special
> > thanks for the advise
> >
>

I have been searching the internet for info on mashing corn for distilling with
no luck.
Does corn need to be malted like barley or can it be ground up and mashed right
off the cob?
Can someone poing me in the right direction to a book or website?

   Thanks

hi again
if i was to use raw spring water for my ferment.
of course as nature insist there will be bad organism and good ones
now the question is
knowing that there is the bad microbacteria in there and i go ahead without
treating the water first
will the acid level that i will add kill them
will the yeast kill them or will they kill the yeast
and as teh alchohol start to produce will the co2 kill it or the alchohol level
which at the end should be around 12%-15%abv

which would be the best quemical to use to kill the bad guys at the very
begining so that i dont have to wory about that
remember its like 1000 liter mash
thanks
louis

hey waldo
yes i will be botteling and selling.
but it will be more of a new taste.  no aging at this stage.
i know it makes it better but im small scale im thinking 100 l a day
for now
as soon as i have pics of the new still i will share it with u .
yes i will be stirring for first 24 hours
about the heat control i have nor think much about that
maybe i shouls lol
i was thinking about stainless steel fermentors
but i was shock at the cost
could build a nice house lol
i think for now i will be fiberglass water tanks
what do u think any cons for that.i think on the heat exchange side it might
heat up more or correct me.
but all the rest will be stainlesss for the botteling and so on
the still will be copper made in south africa
if u have any good links that i can read up i would appreciate
thanks again
louis

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Another thing Bossy,
>
> For large fermentations, they also use stirrers that keep the
> fermentation in continuous motion..  If I remember right, you have a
> commercial rum distillery in the Seychelles Islands - you should pay
> them a visit and watch their operation - get some insight on a large
> operation....
>
> JB.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > 600 Liters hey?
> >
> > Hope you bought a larger still then that little alembic you have lol.
> > As long as you add sufficient nutrients and yeast, it really should
> > ferment about the same.  If you think how the commercial guys do it -
> > fermenting 1000s of gallons at a time, the whiskey makers here do that
> > in less then 5 days.  Just think large scale - what type of fermenter
> > are you using for that much?  The commercial distillers have cooling
> > pipes running through their fermenters - you may also have to think
> > about that.
> >
> > So Bossy, with your license are you planning on bottling your product
> > and selling it commercially?
> >
> > JB. aka Waldo.
> >
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravo" bravoseychelles@
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > hi there my good friends
> > > as i move to ferment bigger mashes
> > > before i make a expensive mistakes
> > > would a 600plus liter ferment behave same a a 200liter mash
> > >
> > > would u add naything special
> > > thanks for the advise
> > >
> >
>

Hi Bravo,
Spring water should be just fine and dandy. I use well water of doubtful quality
(almost undrinkable. I don't use it for dilution) with good results.
As you are look at 1000 litre ferments I would recommend getting a full water
test done. I got one for our new well (which has great tasting water) and I
think it is well worth the investment. I don't have the test results on me, but
I could find it if you are interested. It cost me about $200NZD and contained
information on metals (lead, iron, copper etc.), biological nasties (fecal
chloroforms, nitrates etc.) and softness, turbidity and the like.
The information about metals and nasties is good to know for any product. The
softness etc. is only really useful when brewing beer (hardness has a direct
affect on perceived bitterness).
My advice is that if you are getting serious, get a water test.
Regards,
Sid.

Hi again Bravo,
Like you I've been a bit hesitant to scale up over 200 litre ferments.
The three thinks that spring to mind are;
1) Heat. Might need a cooling coil but depends on abient temp and vessel. You
can get some idea of the heat generated from the yeast makers. Check out the
information on the Lammond website (might be getting a bit too technical)
2) Stirring. Easy to do and will make a big difference as you will have far less
surface area to volume ratio.
3) CO2 output. Having a few 600 litre bres working flat out in you garage could
start to become a real problem.

Hope this helps,
Sid.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravo" <bravoseychelles@...> wrote:
>
> hi there my good friends
> as i move to ferment bigger mashes
> before i make a expensive mistakes
> would a 600plus liter ferment behave same a a 200liter mash
>
> would u add naything special
> thanks for the advise
>

I have aquired some oak. If i want to age in oak, do I add this to the raw
neutral spirit or after the flavouring is added. Or at which stage does anyone
suggest

 
 
 
 
________________________________ 
 
  Whiskey is What Beer Wants to Be When it Grows Up

______________________

Your Car is German. Your Vodka is Russian. Your Pizza Italian. Your
Kebab is Turkish. Your Democracy is Greek. Your Coffee Brazilian.
Your Movies are American. Your Tea is Chinese. Your Shirt is Mexican.
Your Oil is Saudi Arabian. Your Electronics are Japanese. Your Numbers  are
Arabic, Your Letters are Latin. Your Cocaine is Colombian. And you
Complain that your Neighbor is an Immigrant?

_________________________

thanks guys,
i havedone a water test,
there are some nasties in there
but the norm nasties
only wanted to know if those nasties would do like the yeast and explode in
numbers when they see all the sex going on next to them
lol
the chemical contents are ok where metal is concern
thanks for the reply
if any body has some info about microbes reaction in a ferment
do they strive or die
would be glad to know

hi there
of course stainless steel fermenting tanks is the best
but 600l to 1000l tanks can get quite shaky on your bank details
lol
so if i resroted to fiberglass tanks which is local made and cost about 30 % of
a stainless steel tank
what would the cons be for using such material during fermentation or to the end
product taste
thanks
louis

So corn does not need to be malted like barley, you grind it add the
Amylase powder and mash like you would barley?





On 4/3/11, Ric Cunningham <wilypig@...> wrote:
> Corn does not have enough enzymes to convert starch to sugar. A source of
> enzymes must be added to the mash. Either a Amylase powder or 6 row malted
> barley will work. Using creamed corn from a can may not be a good idea. Look
> at the can label and see what all the ingredient are. If it is just corn
> water and salt then no problem. Do some research on a 'Cereal Mash' to see
> how to mash corn with barley. You need to gelatinize the corn before
> conversion.
>
> On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 1:29 AM, virgil hoskins
> <varminteater2003@...>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I started my drive for information after running across a link to
>> youtube,,
>> just type in moonshine in the search bar, and see what others have
>> uploaded
>> To share,,But,, I have not read or heard of cutting corn right off the
>> cob,
>> And right into a mash,, If anyone does find out the information and it
>> worked
>> I`d have to say i`ll be mixxing cans of CREAM CORN with with my corn meal
>> to experiment with,, hows that for a thought?
>> Virgil
>>
>>
>>
>> --- On *Fri, 4/1/11, Iker <Grandview06@...>* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Iker <Grandview06@...>
>> Subject: [new_distillers] Corn mash
>> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>> Date: Friday, April 1, 2011, 10:21 PM
>>
>>
>>
>> I have been searching the internet for info on mashing corn for distilling
>> with no luck.
>> Does corn need to be malted like barley or can it be ground up and mashed
>> right off the cob?
>> Can someone poing me in the right direction to a book or website?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> If you can make macaroni and cheese from a box, you can make a great beer.
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Bossy,
>
> Have heard of several commercial wine makers using fiberglass fermenters
> - one of them is Ventana Vineyards -

Here's the info you're looking for...

It may take a while to load, I dunno.  I'm having trouble getting anywhere except Yahoo tonight.  Seems half the internet is down?

Slainte!
regards Harry

thanks
what a releif to know tat its all good.
only i will make sure i use a foodgrade paint for the interior.
thanks again guy
what is your opinion on the quaetion of the water source in the tread before
is there specific bad bugs i should be ;looking out for in the test report
i know im sounding a bit specific and technical here
but there is no school here for these info
i hope and any info for me if food for the brain
have a good day
bossy

Wine

Potassium metabisulfite is a common wine or must additive, in which it forms sulfur dioxide gas (SO₂). This both prevents most wild microorganisms from growing, and it acts as a potent antioxidant, protecting both the color and delicate flavors of wine.

The typical dosage is 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfite per six-gallon bucket of must (yielding roughly 75 ppm of SO₂) prior to fermentation; then 1/2 tsp per six-gallon bucket (150 ppm of SO₂) at bottling.

Winemaking equipment is sanitized by spraying with a 1% SO₂ (2 tsp potassium metabisulfite per L) solution.

 Beer

Potassium metabisulfite is sometimes used in the brewing industry to inhibit the growth of wild yeasts, bacteria, and fungi. This is called 'stabilizing'. It is also used to neutralize chloramine that has been added to tap water at the source as a disinfectant. It is used both by homebrewers and commercial brewers alike. It is not used as much for brewing beer, because the wort is almost always boiled, which kills most microorganisms anyway. It can also be added to strike water (the water used to mash the barley) in order to remove chloramines which can cause phenolic off flavors in beer.

Is it possible to make a decent whiskey from a neutral spirit or mabe a brandy I
would like to do more with it then just making a vodka.

   Thanks

ok
i was reading and they say that there are 2 other ways that this can be done
1st buy a uv light sterilizer which your water pass through before reaching the
fermentors

2nd is to use a ozoniser
i think this might not be the best idea since ozoniser makes the water 03
correct me if im wrong please
03 will kill even the yeast

if anybody out there have used it then i welcome yor feedback
i just want to eliminate the need to rely on importing bags of chemicals every 3
or 6 months
thanks waldo for the advise
bossy

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Bravo,
>
> You can kill any nasties in both the water and on you mango fruits using
> potassium or sodium metabisulfite, which is a chemical added to the
> fermentation a day before the yeast is added.  This produces SO2 gas
> which will kill any bacterial.  It is used extensively in the wine
> industry for sterilizing a fermentation.  I believe potassium
> metabisulfite is the preferred one to use.
>
> Add this to your fermentation before you add your yeast and wait 24
> hours or so for the sulfer dioxide gas to escape before adding yeast.
>
> JB. aka Waldo.
>
> Wine
> Potassium metabisulfite is a common wine
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wine>  or must
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Must>  additive, in which it forms sulfur
> dioxide gas (SO2). This both prevents most wild microorganisms
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microorganism>  from growing, and it acts
> as a potent antioxidant <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant> ,
> protecting both the color and delicate flavors of wine.
>
> The typical dosage is 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfite per six-gallon
> bucket of must (yielding roughly 75 ppm of SO2) prior to fermentation;
> then 1/2 tsp per six-gallon bucket (150 ppm of SO2) at bottling.
>
> Winemaking equipment is sanitized by spraying with a 1% SO2 (2 tsp
> potassium metabisulfite per L) solution.
>   Beer
> Potassium metabisulfite is sometimes used in the brewing
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing>  industry to inhibit the growth
> of wild yeasts <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast> , bacteria
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacteria> , and fungi
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fungi> . This is called 'stabilizing'. It
> is also used to neutralize chloramine
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloramine>  that has been added to tap
> water at the source as a disinfectant. It is used both by homebrewers
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homebrewing>  and commercial brewers
> alike. It is not used as much for brewing beer
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer> , because the wort
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wort_%28brewing%29>   is almost always
> boiled, which kills most microorganisms anyway. It can  also be added to
> strike water (the water used to mash the barley) in  order to remove
> chloramines which can cause phenolic off flavors in  beer.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravo" <bravoseychelles@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > thanks guys,
> > i havedone a water test,
> > there are some nasties in there
> > but the norm nasties
> > only wanted to know if those nasties would do like the yeast and
> explode in numbers when they see all the sex going on next to them
> > lol
> > the chemical contents are ok where metal is concern
> > thanks for the reply
> > if any body has some info about microbes reaction in a ferment
> > do they strive or die
> > would be glad to know
> >
>

Please don't beat me up about this as it's a thought and I'm a beginner. Please
correct me if I am wrong though. Years ago there was no way to test water other
than location and plants around a well,creek,or any other type of water source.
People used to use untreated water to make their whiskey and find out what water
source tasted or worked the best. When they found good water they would stick to
it and I think some distilleries and beer makers still do. If you have the time,
resources, and patience to make several small batches from several sources, one
batch using chemicals, and using the identical recipe to find out what works and
tastes best. Almost like starting completely over I know.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Bravo,
>
> You can kill any nasties in both the water and on you mango fruits using
> potassium or sodium metabisulfite, which is a chemical added to the
> fermentation a day before the yeast is added.  This produces SO2 gas
> which will kill any bacterial.  It is used extensively in the wine
> industry for sterilizing a fermentation.  I believe potassium
> metabisulfite is the preferred one to use.
>
> Add this to your fermentation before you add your yeast and wait 24
> hours or so for the sulfer dioxide gas to escape before adding yeast.
>
> JB. aka Waldo.
>
> Wine
> Potassium metabisulfite is a common wine
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wine>  or must
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Must>  additive, in which it forms sulfur
> dioxide gas (SO2). This both prevents most wild microorganisms
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microorganism>  from growing, and it acts
> as a potent antioxidant <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant> ,
> protecting both the color and delicate flavors of wine.
>
> The typical dosage is 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfite per six-gallon
> bucket of must (yielding roughly 75 ppm of SO2) prior to fermentation;
> then 1/2 tsp per six-gallon bucket (150 ppm of SO2) at bottling.
>
> Winemaking equipment is sanitized by spraying with a 1% SO2 (2 tsp
> potassium metabisulfite per L) solution.
>   Beer
> Potassium metabisulfite is sometimes used in the brewing
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing>  industry to inhibit the growth
> of wild yeasts <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast> , bacteria
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacteria> , and fungi
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fungi> . This is called 'stabilizing'. It
> is also used to neutralize chloramine
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloramine>  that has been added to tap
> water at the source as a disinfectant. It is used both by homebrewers
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homebrewing>  and commercial brewers
> alike. It is not used as much for brewing beer
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer> , because the wort
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wort_%28brewing%29>   is almost always
> boiled, which kills most microorganisms anyway. It can  also be added to
> strike water (the water used to mash the barley) in  order to remove
> chloramines which can cause phenolic off flavors in  beer.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravo" <bravoseychelles@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > thanks guys,
> > i havedone a water test,
> > there are some nasties in there
> > but the norm nasties
> > only wanted to know if those nasties would do like the yeast and
> explode in numbers when they see all the sex going on next to them
> > lol
> > the chemical contents are ok where metal is concern
> > thanks for the reply
> > if any body has some info about microbes reaction in a ferment
> > do they strive or die
> > would be glad to know
> >
>

Iker,

There are plenty of different essences around for flavoring vodka.  They
use them a great deal in New Zealand.  Not sure about a "decent" whiskey
though.  Google "liquor flavoring essences" and you will get all
different brands.  Liquor Quik Essences has Jack Daniels flavors for
whiskey along with Jim Beam Bourbon.  Have never tried them though.

JB. aka Waldo.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Iker" <Grandview06@...> wrote:
>
> Is it possible to make a decent whiskey from a neutral spirit or mabe
a brandy I would like to do more with it then just making a vodka.
>
>   Thanks
>

Have you ever tried the Liquor Quik Essences?  Thought I heard some good things
about them.

JB.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Adam Fordham <bluwater2828@...> wrote:
>
> <p>I've tried some of the prestige brand and didn't like any of the whiskey or
Bourbon flavors. The Irish cream was good though.<br><br><br></p>
> <p>Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android</p>
>

Thanks JB

Do you need the flavoring or can you do it with oak chips and glucose?




On 4/4/11, jamesonbeam1 <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
> Iker,
>
> There are plenty of different essences around for flavoring vodka.  They
> use them a great deal in New Zealand.  Not sure about a "decent" whiskey
> though.  Google "liquor flavoring essences" and you will get all
> different brands.  Liquor Quik Essences has Jack Daniels flavors for
> whiskey along with Jim Beam Bourbon.  Have never tried them though.
>
> JB. aka Waldo.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Iker" <Grandview06@...> wrote:
>>
>> Is it possible to make a decent whiskey from a neutral spirit or mabe
> a brandy I would like to do more with it then just making a vodka.
>>
>>   Thanks
>>
>
>
>