Skip to search.

Breaking News Visit Yahoo! News for the latest.

×Close this window

new_distillers · A discussion and information sharing list for new distillers. Especially suited to people new to home distilling of alcohol.

The Yahoo! Groups Product Blog

Check it out!

Group Information

  • Members: 5273
  • Category: Food and Drink
  • Founded: Mar 20, 2000
  • Language: English
? Already a member? Sign in to Yahoo!

Yahoo! Groups Tips

Did you know...
Message search is now enhanced, find messages faster. Take it for a spin.

Messages

Advanced
Messages Help
Messages 39518 - 39556 of 43821   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Messages: Show Message Summaries Sort by Date ^  
#39518 From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon Nov 1, 2010 8:08 am
Subject: File - Welcome All new Members - and How to
new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Send Email Send Email
 
Welcome all New Members,

This site contains much information and a multitude of members with
vast amounts of information. Please feel free to research and ask
questions.

Archived Messages may be accessed by typing key word(s) in the search
window at the top of this screen, or entering the actual message
number (also review Advanced Search Options).

The Files, Photos, Links and Database Sections are at the left of
this screen, and contain many resources available to members.

These include Links to the New Distiller's "Wiki" style Information
Base with topics related to Fermentation and Distilling.

In addition, you should consider reading through Tony Ackland's
Homedistillers site at: http://homedistiller.org/  This contains all
the information needed to start off.  Another great resource is Harry
Jackson's (the Owner of these sites) "The Alcohol Library", which contains
many books and articles on the topics of Distillation.  See:
http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/

The Database section contains the Information base with a quick
search by key word. Just copy and paste the link to your
browser address window.

This Information base relies on Members to expand the contents by
asking questions (even the most simple ones will be answered), and
request new additions to be made by posting, if a topic of interest
is not covered.

A printable report of all topics is also available.

Personal Files and Pictures may be uploaded (please keep to the
subjects of Fermentation and Distillation - or else they will be
deleted), in the Files and Photos sections also.  These will have to be
approved by a moderator.

Note: Please create your own Folder first before adding your pictures or
files. See Instructions to do this in those sections.

Enjoy and BE SAFE.

Thank you for joining us.

The Management.
(Harry Jackson -  Owner)
(Co-Moderators - Jameson Beam, Mason Jar Dixon (aka Rye Junkie), Riku, Trid and
ZB - Zymurgy Bob)

#39519 From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon Nov 1, 2010 8:08 am
Subject: File - Group-Policy.html
new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Send Email Send Email
 

Distillers & new_distillers Policy

Introduction:

Due to the ever-increasing worldwide activity in relation to spamming, hijacking, trolling, pornography redirection and other attacks,  it has become necessary to implement a Groups Policy and to reinforce basic posting procedures.   Members and Groups Management will all benefit from the increased security and streamlining of operations.

Your participation and continuation as a member of these groups is dependent on your acknowledgement and acceptance of the Policy.  Groups Management is confident the Policy and related guidelines are easy to follow and will make the groups a better information resource for all.  Some links within the content of this Policy will take you off this server.  Please use your browser's [back arrow] or [back button] to return here.

All new members will be sent a copy of these rules upon joining the groups.  On a monthly basis, a copy of these rules shall be posted in the messages list of the groups.  A copy of these rules shall remain in the files section for perusal.

 Thank you in advance for your co-operation.

        Regards

        Groups Management Team

 

 

About the Groups:

The existence of these Groups is for the purpose of facilitating the dissemination of relevant information pertaining to the hobby of home distillation of alcohol.  The Groups are not an accountable resource of any commercial business or entity.  The groups are a non-profit concern.  The groups remain entities in their own right.

 

General Guidelines:

Posting and emailing to these groups will broadly comply with the general usenet guidelines, in addition to the following specific rules ...

 

Rules of Engagement:

 

1.  PLAY NICE

This rule shouldn't need further explanation, but just in case, see rule 10.

2.  PLEASE SNIP

When replying, use only relevant content of the previous post in the thread.  Many people have to pay for bytes downloaded and 60 excess lines for a one or two word reply is rude.

3.  STAY ON-TOPIC

The topic is distilling and related issues.  Some latitude via general joviality & cameraderie is welcome and acceptable.

4.  STAY ON-SUBJECT

If the thread appears to be going way off-subject, please start a new thread.  This will give better results when searching archived posts.  The following subject change is the preferred method ... [Subject: NewSubject (was) Re: OldSubject].

5.  NO TROLLING

Members identifiable as engaging in trolling will be removed from the groups.  Please read the definition of troll as it pertains to these groups.

6.  NO SPAMMING

Members identifiable as engaging in spamming will be removed from the groups.  Please read the definition of  spam  as it pertains to these groups.

7.  NO ATTACHMENTS

Message attachments are automatically blocked from these groups.  Members wishing to upload files/photos are reminded of the temporary nature of uploads.  Said files are to be placed in the relevant sections of the groups filespace allocation.

8.  NO FLAME WARS

If a discussion is getting heated, take it to private email.

9.  NO ADVERTISING

Members who knowingly put commercial adverts in the body or signature lines of their posts or attempt to use the forums as a free advertising medium will be placed on moderated status until the breach is remedied.  Continual infringements will result in the member being removed and/or banned from the groups.  The policy of reciprocal linking to commercial sites via the links section is acceptable.  Contact management direct to arrange this, as the links section is closed to member editing.

10.  PLAY NICE

This rule shouldn't need further explanation, but just in case, see rule 1.

 

Signature Lines Policy:

Signature lines are generally acceptable when used in replies to posts made on the lists, however they must conform to the following guidelines:

 

1. Please keep signature lines to a maximum of five (5) lines.

A sig file of no more than three (3) lines is preferred. [example #1]

 

2. Sig files may contain site URLs, but they may NOT include advertising of any kind. (see examples)

 

3. Sig files may NOT contain affiliate links of any kind, including links to hosting reseller programs, MLMs, paid browsing or e-mail programs, etc. (see examples)

 

4. Sig files should NOT contain meaningless disclaimers as to the content or opinions expressed in the e-mail. If you are posting from a company address that requires such a disclaimer to be appended, we suggest you either use the FPlist page at yahoogroups.com to post your list messages, or sign-up for an account at one of the many free providers and use this for posting to the list. (see examples)

 

5. Vendors may not post advertisements to the list for their products under any circumstances. (see examples)

 

6. Members should use good judgment in composing their signatures and should contact the list owner if there is any question about the format or content : see examples

 

 

7. If your signature line does not conform to these guidelines, one of the list moderators may contact you to suggest how you may change it to be in compliance with guidelines. If your "default" sig line does not conform to the above guidelines, we suggest you create an alternate signature file to use when posting to this list.

 

Examples:

Example #1 - Acceptable:

Can anyone tell me why my still doesn't do XYZ? TIA.

regards

Joe Blow

http://www.joes-stills.com

 

End Example #1

 

Example #2 - NOT acceptable:

Can anyone tell me why my still doesn't do XYZ? TIA.

regards

Joe Blow

WebMaster Joe's Magic Moonshine Site

Can't find Product A, B or C?  We have squillions to choose from. Visit us at http://www.joes-stills.com.

 

Get paid for reading e-mail. Sign-up at http://latest-email-scam.com/1234?id=joeblow

 

The opinions expressed in this email are solely those of the author and do not reflect the corporate views of joes-stills.com. This mail is personal and confidential and not meant for use by anyone but the recipient.

 

End Example #2

 

Variance of Rules:

Groups Management reserves the right to vary or alter these rules without prior notice.  All members will be advised of changes via a special notice mailout to the member's last recorded email address in the records database.  The onus of compliance with the rules and currency of email adresses rests with the member.

Disputing the Rules:

In all cases of dispute regarding the rules and/or their application, correspondence shall be private and between the member and Groups Management.  No other form of correspondence will be entered into.


#39520 From: "Pete H" <thursty2@...>
Date: Mon Nov 1, 2010 11:26 am
Subject: Re: whirlpool clearing of wash
thursty2
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks for the link Mav.

I have plenty of time on my hands but a lack of change in my pockets.
Using the fridge to clarify a beer ferment works a treat, but the poor old
fridge can only accommodate either 2 post mix kegs (19ltrs each) or one 25 ltr
fermenter. I prefer to have cold beer on tap. ;^)

---------------------------

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "mav" <mavnkaf@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Pete H" <thursty2@> wrote:
> >
> > My simple washes - sugar and yeast, are always cloudy on completion of
fermentation. Has anyone on this list experimented with "whirlpooling"?
> >
> > It is a very easy process to start and maintain a whirlpool, but I was
hoping some-one may have tried it and has some result to report.
> >
> > My thinking, for extended whirlpooling (say 5 to 10 minutes) is to use a
fishpond pump, then let the wash settle before drawing (or pumping) off the
clarified wash.
> >
> > I'm also thinking that a fermenter with a bowl shaped 'trap" in the bottom
would assist in capturing the trub/lees.
> >
> > All comments welcome.
> >
> .....................................................
>
>
> Hi Pete, if your serious about separating yeast/ debris quickly from the wash
and got some dollars to spare, this is the web site for you;)  You can do the
DIY if dollars are short.  Some guy's have similar unit from wood lathes as
well.
>
> http://www.absolutecentrifuge.com/
>
> Finings work ok with secondary racking if you have time on your side. Or use
Harry's suggestion by making space in the fridge for your wash vessel to drop
the yeast in a cold chill filtering concept.
>
> What you decide on will be dictated by need and affordability.  In my case, I
have more time than money so you can guess what technique I use.  It's only a
hobby for me but I depend on good results!!
>
> Cheers
> Marc
>

#39522 From: "missouri_bootlegger" <siscoweb@...>
Date: Thu Nov 4, 2010 9:20 pm
Subject: Dried Molasses
missouri_boo...
Send Email Send Email
 
Has any one ever used dried molasses? the feed store where I get molasses for my
brew ( I use the molasses that is sold for attracting deer) was out but they had
some dried molasses so I thought I would give it a try it is 35% sugar (as
invert)

Normally I use  gal molasses (85 brix) to 20 lbs of sugar and +-10 gal of water
adjusted to 1.080 sg, 3tlbs Dap and  cup distillers yeast

I have 50 pounds of it and 50 pounds of sugar and two 15 gal fermenters any
ideas

#39527 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Fri Nov 5, 2010 10:56 pm
Subject: Re: Dried Molasses
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 
Boot,

Never used dry molasses, Maby Harry, the rum expert can help ya out.

JB.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "missouri_bootlegger"
<siscoweb@...> wrote:
>
> Has any one ever used dried molasses? the feed store where I get
molasses for my brew ( I use the molasses that is sold for attracting
deer) was out but they had some dried molasses so I thought I would give
it a try it is 35% sugar (as invert)
>
> Normally I use  gal molasses (85 brix) to 20 lbs of sugar and +-10
gal of water adjusted to 1.080 sg, 3tlbs Dap and  cup distillers
yeast
>
> I have 50 pounds of it and 50 pounds of sugar and two 15 gal
fermenters any ideas
>

#39529 From: "babyboomer" <maccacaravans@...>
Date: Sat Nov 6, 2010 11:10 am
Subject: new member big hi from australia
jillross2000
Send Email Send Email
 
hi first i like say hi to all , i am very new to this so wondering somone can
advise. i wanting to distill lavandra to harvest the oil i have been looking at
2 units one is pot sytem and other is reflux sytem what are the advantages and
disavanges of this and suitablity to the essential oils they are both stainless
steel

#39530 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Sat Nov 6, 2010 12:54 pm
Subject: Re: new member big hi from australia
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Hi Boomer,

Love the name - lots of us around here (but we  getting old lol)..  For distilling fragrant oils and stuff, you dont want to go the refux route.  Reflux stills perform many distillations in a single run.

What you want is a simple pot still with a small boiler.  Actually you can distill essence with just a tea kettle, some small diameter flexible copper tubing and a simple bucket condenser.

You can read up on distilling theory and see all kinds of designs on Tony's Homedistiller's site at http://www.homedistiller.org/  Read thru the intro and theory/design sections and come back with any answers.

Welcome aboard and good luck.

JB aka Waldo.

Note- if ya need any good rum recipes in the future, we could help also ROTF>  ;)

 


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "babyboomer" <maccacaravans@...> wrote:
>
> hi first i like say hi to all , i am very new to this so wondering somone can advise. i wanting to distill lavandra to harvest the oil i have been looking at 2 units one is pot sytem and other is reflux sytem what are the advantages and disavanges of this and suitablity to the essential oils they are both stainless steel
>


#39531 From: justin webster <mail@...>
Date: Sat Nov 6, 2010 11:57 pm
Subject: bicarb question
j_r_webster
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi chaps,
I've been googling but not finding much info on the effect of bicarb on the
likes of rum and whiskey.
I understand the benefits with respect to ethyl acetate but should I be
concerned about losing or ruining some of the more desirable flavours?

and I'm still not quite sure about quantities - should I aim for a specific pH?
does 6 sound right?
and if so - should I be adjusting with citric acid in order to get a specific
quantity of bicarb in there?

cheers,
justin

#39533 From: joe framer <framers8@...>
Date: Mon Nov 8, 2010 3:08 pm
Subject: files section
t_framer
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi all,  I have been following the group for several weeks but I can not access the files section on the website. Is there anything special I need to do to get full access.   Joe Framer


#39534 From: Christopher Bedwell <eukanubaau@...>
Date: Mon Nov 8, 2010 3:53 pm
Subject: Calculating alcohol by packet measurements ?
eukanubaau
Send Email Send Email
 
Guys, just a quick question... I put down a sugar/yeast wash yesterday according
to the packet instructions...

It's a new Zealand still spirits turbo yeast, the 'recipe' called for 21L water
@ 40c and 6 kg white sugar ( I used castor ), total makes 25L

Given this is simple X + Y = Z, is there an online calculator where i can
calculate what the sg should be based on this info ?

I misplaced my hydrometer and couldn't hold off on putting this batch down...

- chris

Sent from my iPhone

#39535 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Mon Nov 8, 2010 6:08 pm
Subject: Re: Calculating alcohol by packet measurements ?
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

There is a calculator in Tony's site at http://www.homedistiller.org/wash-sugar.htm

This assumes a straight 51% conversion of sugar to alcohol, which is considered high by some distillers.

If you look at http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm  this will give you some tables with different alcohol levels based on different calculations.  Sometimes its hard to say how much alcohol is converted without chemical analysis,  due to:

 "Potential Alcohol levels vary on the source. This is because the actual quantity of alcohol produced is dependant on the individual yeast strain and fermentation environment. Some sugar is also used by the yeast for growth and production of other compounds, and some alcohol escapes with the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. The theoretical yield of alcohol from sugar due to alcoholic fermentation (glucose is converted by yeast to ethanol and carbon dioxide) is 51.1% by weight (65 %/volume). However, with these considerations it is closer to 47% by weight (59 %/volume). Jackisch notes that for "red grapes from hot areas" the yield is closer to 43% by weight (54 %/volume) (Modern Winemaking by Philip Jackisch, Cornell University Press, 1985)."

JB.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Bedwell <eukanubaau@...> wrote:
>
> Guys, just a quick question... I put down a sugar/yeast wash yesterday according to the packet instructions...
>
> It's a new Zealand still spirits turbo yeast, the 'recipe' called for 21L water @ 40c and 6 kg white sugar ( I used castor ), total makes 25L
>
> Given this is simple X + Y = Z, is there an online calculator where i can calculate what the sg should be based on this info ?
>
> I misplaced my hydrometer and couldn't hold off on putting this batch down...
>
> - chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>


#39536 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Mon Nov 8, 2010 6:19 pm
Subject: Re: files section
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 
Joe,

We have been keeping people on moderated status since there has been
some incedents of spamming from hackers that have been using regular
member names.  This should have no impact on your ability to view files.

Please let us know what type of problems you are having.

Thanks,

JB.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, joe framer <framers8@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,  I have been following the group for several weeks but I can
not access the files section on the website. Is there anything special I
need to do to get full access.   Joe Framer
>

#39537 From: "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...>
Date: Mon Nov 8, 2010 7:48 pm
Subject: Re: files section
gnikomson2000
Send Email Send Email
 
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Joe,
>
> We have been keeping people on moderated status since there has been
> some incedents of spamming from hackers that have been using regular
> member names.  This should have no impact on your ability to view files.
>
> Please let us know what type of problems you are having.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JB.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, joe framer <framers8@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,  I have been following the group for several weeks but I can
> not access the files section on the website. Is there anything special I
> need to do to get full access.   Joe Framer
> >
>


You gotta be signed in to view files/photos.


Slainte!
regards Harry
http://distillers.tastylime.net

#39538 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Mon Nov 8, 2010 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: bicarb question
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Justin,

Sorry to be so slow getting back to you.

Firstly, I'd never use bicarb in any flavored-spirit run, like
whisk(e)y, brandy or rum. What you have seen correctly as suppression of
ethyl acetate formation is in fact uppression of all ester formation,
and much of the flavor and/or nose of any good liquor is in its ester
profile. In rum there are specifically 2 esters that together are called
"rum oil", and using bicarb will lose you all that flavor.

Second, I'd never use bicarb in a first run, a beer-stripping run, even
if I were aiming for a tasteless spirit. The bicarb can raise the pH
enough to make the nitrogen compounds in your wash, mostly from yeast
nutrients, react wiht the copper in your still, especially in the
column, to make Schweizer's reagent, a blue copper ammonia complex that
colors your spirit blue. And no-one wnats to drink copper compounds.

Only use bicarb on the second (or more) still run, so there can be no
nitrogen compounds in the wash.

Don't worry about pH in a low-wines run; chasing pH can make you crazy
and mess up a good wash. I use about a quarter cup in a 15-gallon still
charge. It's certainly overkill, but it hurts nothing, and is simply an
excess reagent in the reaction.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster <mail@...> wrote:
>
> Hi chaps,
> I've been googling but not finding much info on the effect of bicarb
on the likes of rum and whiskey.
> I understand the benefits with respect to ethyl acetate but should I
be concerned about losing or ruining some of the more desirable
flavours?
>
> and I'm still not quite sure about quantities - should I aim for a
specific pH? does 6 sound right?
> and if so - should I be adjusting with citric acid in order to get a
specific quantity of bicarb in there?
>
> cheers,
> justin
>

#39541 From: "Bruce" <blrott@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 2010 10:10 am
Subject: corn
blrott
Send Email Send Email
 
just acquired reflux still. would like to make corn wiskey. this is what i have
firgured out so far. would like to have  people let me know if i am on the right
track. sprout corn to root size of approx 2in. let corn dry. remove root. grind
corn in meal. place meal in fermenter. add boil water. add yeast. let ferment.
strain. place remaining fluid in fermenter and distill. would like comment.
thanks. blrott. real new to distilling.

#39542 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 2010 4:01 pm
Subject: Re: corn
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Hello Bruce,

Welcome aboard to the real distillers' world.   Wish I could tell ya your right on the money, but whatever book your reading or wherever you got that information from - throw it away.....

First off, corn whiskey is distilled in pot stills or reflux stills that have been de-refluxed with the packing taken out and run in pot still fashion, or as Ian Smiley states - in a low seperation mode where there are not so many distillations going on in a single run.  This is critical if you want to maintain the corn and grain flavors without ending up with a neutral alcohol.

Secondly,  malted corn (or trying to malt your own corn) does not have anywhere near the enzyme power or cabability (called diastatic power) to convert starches to sugars that 6 row or 2 row malted barley has.   You'll be much better of just buying a couple of pounds of malted barley instead of wasting your time trying to malt your own corn...

Thirdly, the technique of mashing the grains to convert the starch chains to sugars using the alpha and beta enzymes in malted barley, does not require boiling at all, but letting the grains steep in water that is no hotter then around 170 F for an hour or more.  This is called the Saccharification Rest. Any temps over 170 F will distroy the enzymatic activity.

Finally, you never add yeast to a fermentation that is hotter then around 78 F.  The yeast we use works best in the mid-70 F range....

Before you begin your first journey into distilling, I would definitly take some time and read thru Tony Ackland's Homedistillers site at http://www.homedistiller.org/  Especially the theory, introduction and the section on malting and mashing grains...  This will explain all about the enzyme activity in breaking down starch chains and how the different amalyse enzymes work. 

To be honest with ya, as a beginner, I would first start off with a simple sugar wash, like a MUM wash, or if you want to try a corn likker recipe, go with a non-cook type recipe like the famous Uncle Jesse's Simple Sour Mash Recipe *UJSSM  which many beginners have started with at http://wiki.homedistiller.org/index.php/Uncle_Jesse's_Simple_Sour_Mash_Method 

But please before you attempt an all grain mashing experience, please do some reading and get an better understanding of this process.  Will save you and us all a hell of alot of headaches - believe me my friend, I speaketh from experience...... ;)

JB.  aka Waldo aka Moderator.



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce" <blrott@...> wrote:
>
> just acquired reflux still. would like to make corn wiskey. this is what i have firgured out so far. would like to have people let me know if i am on the right track. sprout corn to root size of approx 2in. let corn dry. remove root. grind corn in meal. place meal in fermenter. add boil water. add yeast. let ferment. strain. place remaining fluid in fermenter and distill. would like comment. thanks. blrott. real new to distilling.
>


#39543 From: Michael Sisco <siscoweb@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 2010 4:21 pm
Subject: Re:corn
missouri_boo...
Send Email Send Email
 
 
this link will tell you all you want to know about grain mashes
 
I have been distilling about a year and I am working doing all grain mashes but haven't been sucsessful with one yet
 
I use the UJSSM recipe that is the link below
 


#39544 From: justin webster <mail@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 2010 8:58 pm
Subject: Re: Re: bicarb question
j_r_webster
Send Email Send Email
 
thanks,
can you name the two esters you're talking about here?
is one Isobutyl Propionate?

I actually went ahead and tried 4 desertspoons of bicarb in my spirit run and the results were pretty good.
admittedly it was a bit of a weird experimental batch which I was expecting to taste foul so I thought I'd just give it a crack.
I'll avoid it in my good stuff.

cheers,
justin

On 9/11/2010, at 9:39 AM, tgfoitwoods wrote:

 

Justin,

Sorry to be so slow getting back to you.

Firstly, I'd never use bicarb in any flavored-spirit run, like
whisk(e)y, brandy or rum. What you have seen correctly as suppression of
ethyl acetate formation is in fact uppression of all ester formation,
and much of the flavor and/or nose of any good liquor is in its ester
profile. In rum there are specifically 2 esters that together are called
"rum oil", and using bicarb will lose you all that flavor.

Second, I'd never use bicarb in a first run, a beer-stripping run, even
if I were aiming for a tasteless spirit. The bicarb can raise the pH
enough to make the nitrogen compounds in your wash, mostly from yeast
nutrients, react wiht the copper in your still, especially in the
column, to make Schweizer's reagent, a blue copper ammonia complex that
colors your spirit blue. And no-one wnats to drink copper compounds.

Only use bicarb on the second (or more) still run, so there can be no
nitrogen compounds in the wash.

Don't worry about pH in a low-wines run; chasing pH can make you crazy
and mess up a good wash. I use about a quarter cup in a 15-gallon still
charge. It's certainly overkill, but it hurts nothing, and is simply an
excess reagent in the reaction.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster <mail@...> wrote:
>
> Hi chaps,
> I've been googling but not finding much info on the effect of bicarb
on the likes of rum and whiskey.
> I understand the benefits with respect to ethyl acetate but should I
be concerned about losing or ruining some of the more desirable
flavours?
>
> and I'm still not quite sure about quantities - should I aim for a
specific pH? does 6 sound right?
> and if so - should I be adjusting with citric acid in order to get a
specific quantity of bicarb in there?
>
> cheers,
> justin
>



#39545 From: "Glen - BetGear" <glen@...>
Date: Tue Nov 9, 2010 10:05 pm
Subject: RE: Re: bicarb question
glenc64
Send Email Send Email
 

Hi,

 

According to a post I’ve read somewhere (most likely home distiller), if you’re using bicarb, then it should be left in the low wines to infuse for 3-4 days before running through the still.

 

Cheers

 

Glen.

 

From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of justin webster
Sent: 09 November 2010 20:58
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: bicarb question

 

 

thanks,

can you name the two esters you're talking about here?

is one Isobutyl Propionate?

 

I actually went ahead and tried 4 desertspoons of bicarb in my spirit run and the results were pretty good.

admittedly it was a bit of a weird experimental batch which I was expecting to taste foul so I thought I'd just give it a crack.

I'll avoid it in my good stuff.

 

cheers,

justin

 

On 9/11/2010, at 9:39 AM, tgfoitwoods wrote:



 

Justin,

Sorry to be so slow getting back to you.

Firstly, I'd never use bicarb in any flavored-spirit run, like
whisk(e)y, brandy or rum. What you have seen correctly as suppression of
ethyl acetate formation is in fact uppression of all ester formation,
and much of the flavor and/or nose of any good liquor is in its ester
profile. In rum there are specifically 2 esters that together are called
"rum oil", and using bicarb will lose you all that flavor.

Second, I'd never use bicarb in a first run, a beer-stripping run, even
if I were aiming for a tasteless spirit. The bicarb can raise the pH
enough to make the nitrogen compounds in your wash, mostly from yeast
nutrients, react wiht the copper in your still, especially in the
column, to make Schweizer's reagent, a blue copper ammonia complex that
colors your spirit blue. And no-one wnats to drink copper compounds.

Only use bicarb on the second (or more) still run, so there can be no
nitrogen compounds in the wash.

Don't worry about pH in a low-wines run; chasing pH can make you crazy
and mess up a good wash. I use about a quarter cup in a 15-gallon still
charge. It's certainly overkill, but it hurts nothing, and is simply an
excess reagent in the reaction.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster <mail@...> wrote:
>
> Hi chaps,
> I've been googling but not finding much info on the effect of bicarb
on the likes of rum and whiskey.
> I understand the benefits with respect to ethyl acetate but should I
be concerned about losing or ruining some of the more desirable
flavours?
>
> and I'm still not quite sure about quantities - should I aim for a
specific pH? does 6 sound right?
> and if so - should I be adjusting with citric acid in order to get a
specific quantity of bicarb in there?
>
> cheers,
> justin
>

 


#39546 From: Harry <gnikomson2000@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:54 am
Subject: Library additions
gnikomson2000
Send Email Send Email
 

 

The aim of this book is to describe chemical and biochemical aspects of winemaking that are currently being researched. The authors have selected the very best experts for each of the areas.
The first part of the book summarizes the most important aspects of winemaking technology and microbiology. The second most extensive part deals with the different groups of compounds, how these are modified during the various steps of the production process, and how they affect the wine quality, sensorial aspects, and physiological activity, etc. The third section describes undesirable alterations of wines, including those affecting quality and food safety. Finally, the treatment of data will be considered, an aspect which has not yet been tackled in any other book on enology. In this chapter, the authors not only explain the tools available for analytical data processing, but also indicate the most appropriate treatment to apply, depending on the information required, illustrating with examples throughout the chapter from enological literature.
In Production section
 
 
 
 


 

 

 



Published in 1809, this book is now a window to history. If you are a home-brewer it is a fascinating bit of Americana, written at a time when home brewing was considered a necessity as well as a god given right. These were not “moonshine” or “hillbilly” stills for making rotgut corn whiskey. They were carefully made devices important for the economny of the times. The style of vocabulary is somewhat archaic to our minds, but it shows the literacy of language in bygone times. A good read and an accurate portrayal of distilling life in that era.

 
 
In Historical section.  Enjoy !!!



Slainte!
regards Harry 
Owner :         Y! new_distillers    Y! Distillers    The Alcohol Library    
Forums Info:  FAQ    Policy    Settings   Web Access  Trading Post

 

#39547 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:52 pm
Subject: Re:corn
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks Michael for backing up my observations.  But what problems have
you been running into doing an all grain mash?  After all, it aint
rocket science.. lol.  Please let us know and maybe we can help.

JB.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Michael Sisco <siscoweb@...>
wrote:
>
> http://homedistiller.org/wash-grain.htm
>
> this link will tell you all you want to know about grain mashes
>
> I have been distilling about a year and I am working doing all grain
mashes but haven't been sucsessful with one yet
>
> I use the UJSSM recipe that is the link below
>
>
http://www.homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/Uncle_Jesse%27s_Simple_Sour_\
Mash_Method
>

#39548 From: "JerryM" <jkmccull@...>
Date: Wed Nov 10, 2010 10:58 pm
Subject: Backsweeting - a wine question
jkmccull
Send Email Send Email
 
In November, 2009 I fermented 5 gals white zinfadel wine. After the fermentation
had stopped, I tranferred the wine to a an air-locked glass carboy for aging. I
racked it every 5 weeks until April, 2010. I had my significant other taste the
wine and she thought its was too sour. So I added sugar to match to her taste.
Between April, 2010 and July 2010, I racked the wine twice. I bottled the wine
around the first part of August, 2010 and stored it in a wine rack I made in my
den.

Since the bottling, I have had 4 bottles blow thier corks and drain thier
contents on my den carpet. I have had 7 other bottles show an indication that
they were going to blow but I managed to save them.

I thought with the racking and 9 months in the carboy, the restart of the
fermentation would not occur. What did I do wrong?

#39549 From: "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 12:31 am
Subject: Re: Backsweeting - a wine question
gnikomson2000
Send Email Send Email
 
Fermentation...it ain't over 'till it's over Jerry.

Seriously I know bugger all about winemaking.  But there's plenty on here who
do.  Our mod Jim is one.  There's also a heap of books in the Library you could
refer to.  But at a guess I'd say you need to pasteurise your wine before
bottling, to kill any yeasts, particularly if you've added a sweetener (sugar is
a yeast food & growth item).

I did a quick google and found this...


How to Kill Wine Yeast
By Anna Roberts, eHow Contributor
updated: January 14, 2010

Yeast is a necessary component in wine-making, but at a certain point, the yeast
fermentation must be stopped. When fermentation is finished, some yeast still
remains in the wine. If it is not killed before bottling, it can result in
further fermentation, turning your hard work to vinegar, breaking bottles or
blowing corks. There are four ways to kill the wine yeast to stop fermentation.

Instructions.

1
Let the yeast starve. In this method, you simply let the yeast consume all of
the sugar until there is nothing left to eat, at which point it simply starves.
This will produce a dry wine. To get a sweet wine, stop fermentation sooner,
before all the sugar has been converted. You may also sweeten the wine again
after all the yeast is dead, without fear of restarting fermentation.

2
Heat the wine to 150 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 minutes. The yeast cannot survive
this pasteurization process. Be aware that the cooking method of killing yeast
can yield unpredictable changes to the taste of the wine.

3
Add sulfites or sorbates (usually Campden tablets and potassium sorbate) to the
wine. This is how commercial wines are usually stabilized, but keep in mind that
some people are allergic to sulfites. Use one crushed Campden tablet per gallon
of wine. Use a half teaspoon of potassium sorbate per gallon of wine.

4
Let the alcohol kill the yeast. Yeast can only live in an environment with a
certain amount of alcohol. Wine yeasts in particular can only survive up to
about 6 or 8 percent alcohol.
.

Read more: How to Kill Wine Yeast | eHow.com
http://www.ehow.com/how_5867337_kill-wine-yeast.html#ixzz14vfAQUxM


HTH

Slainte!
regards Harry
http://distillers.tastylime.net

#39550 From: "waljaco" <waljaco@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:40 am
Subject: Re: bicarb question
waljaco
Send Email Send Email
 
If you want ethyl acetate you add acetic acid (vinegar). It reacts with the
ethyl alcohol. Vodka distillers also add bicarbonate I guess to neutralize any
excess acid (?). But is ethyl acetate desirable?
wal


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster <mail@...> wrote:
>
> Hi chaps,
> I've been googling but not finding much info on the effect of bicarb on the
likes of rum and whiskey.
> I understand the benefits with respect to ethyl acetate but should I be
concerned about losing or ruining some of the more desirable flavours?
>
> and I'm still not quite sure about quantities - should I aim for a specific
pH? does 6 sound right?
> and if so - should I be adjusting with citric acid in order to get a specific
quantity of bicarb in there?
>
> cheers,
> justin
>

#39551 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:29 pm
Subject: Re: bicarb question
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Justin,

Isobutyl propionate is one of the rum oils, and for the life of me, I can't find
the other. Sorry.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller (evidently simpler than usual)

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster <mail@...> wrote:
>
> thanks,
> can you name the two esters you're talking about here?
> is one Isobutyl Propionate?
>
> I actually went ahead and tried 4 desertspoons of bicarb in my spirit run and
the results were pretty good.
> admittedly it was a bit of a weird experimental batch which I was expecting to
taste foul so I thought I'd just give it a crack.
> I'll avoid it in my good stuff.
>
> cheers,
> justin
>
> On 9/11/2010, at 9:39 AM, tgfoitwoods wrote:
>
> > Justin,
> >
> > Sorry to be so slow getting back to you.
> >
> > Firstly, I'd never use bicarb in any flavored-spirit run, like
> > whisk(e)y, brandy or rum. What you have seen correctly as suppression of
> > ethyl acetate formation is in fact uppression of all ester formation,
> > and much of the flavor and/or nose of any good liquor is in its ester
> > profile. In rum there are specifically 2 esters that together are called
> > "rum oil", and using bicarb will lose you all that flavor.
> >
> > Second, I'd never use bicarb in a first run, a beer-stripping run, even
> > if I were aiming for a tasteless spirit. The bicarb can raise the pH
> > enough to make the nitrogen compounds in your wash, mostly from yeast
> > nutrients, react wiht the copper in your still, especially in the
> > column, to make Schweizer's reagent, a blue copper ammonia complex that
> > colors your spirit blue. And no-one wnats to drink copper compounds.
> >
> > Only use bicarb on the second (or more) still run, so there can be no
> > nitrogen compounds in the wash.
> >
> > Don't worry about pH in a low-wines run; chasing pH can make you crazy
> > and mess up a good wash. I use about a quarter cup in a 15-gallon still
> > charge. It's certainly overkill, but it hurts nothing, and is simply an
> > excess reagent in the reaction.
> >
> > Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster <mail@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi chaps,
> > > I've been googling but not finding much info on the effect of bicarb
> > on the likes of rum and whiskey.
> > > I understand the benefits with respect to ethyl acetate but should I
> > be concerned about losing or ruining some of the more desirable
> > flavours?
> > >
> > > and I'm still not quite sure about quantities - should I aim for a
> > specific pH? does 6 sound right?
> > > and if so - should I be adjusting with citric acid in order to get a
> > specific quantity of bicarb in there?
> > >
> > > cheers,
> > > justin
> > >
> >
> >
>

#39552 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:31 pm
Subject: Re: Backsweeting - a wine question
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Jerry,

Unless you want to make champagne and put your zinfadel in champagne bottles, as Harry mentioned you must "stablize" the wine first and kill off the yeasts.  Stay away from the pasturization route since this method is mainly used in making kosher wines and tends to give it a "cooked" taste.

The standard way is  to add sorbate and metabisulfite (campden tablets) to prevent renewed fermentation, then sweeten to taste with sugar or a sugar syrup.  Below is a good method for back sweetening.

JB.

Sweeten Home Made Wine

Today I am going to talk about how to sweeten home made wine. Most of my fruit wine finishes very dry. When a wine is too dry, the only thing I can taste is the acid in the wine. I like to bring the fruit flavor out even in my dry wines. I am going to explain how I figure out how much sugar to add.

First be sure your wine is finished fermenting! This is very important. If you add sugar to a wine that is not finished, it will start fermenting again. If it happens to be in bottles when it starts up, it will pop the corks.

Second, I always stabilize my wine prior to sweetening. I do this to stop any residual yeast from starting to ferment again. I stabilize by adding Sorbate K and Campden Tablets (Potassium Metabisulfite). These two added together will stop the yeast from regrowing when the sweetener is added.

Now for the process. I draw a 750ml bottle of wine from the carboy and divide it among 4 wine glasses. This will make the math easier. One glass will not have any sugar add. This is the control glass, so I can compare this to the sweetened wine. In each of the other glasses I will add sugar in 1/4 teaspoon increments. So in glass 1 I will add 1/4 teaspoon of sugar, glass 2 will get 1/2 teaspoon of sugar and glass three will get 3/4 teaspoon of sugar.

Then I taste each glass of wine. I taste just enough wine to get an idea of the flavor profile. After the first tasting, I will add another batch of sugar to the wine. Since I am testing 3 glasses of wine, each with sugar in 1/4 tsp increments, I will add 3/4 teaspoon of sugar to each glass. 1/4 tsp plus 3/4 tsp, give a glass with 1 ts of sugar. adding 3/4 tsp. to each of the other glasses gives 1 1/4 tsp and 1 1/2 tsp respectfully. I then perform the tasting of each of the sweetened glasses again. I make sure to clean my palate each time with water between tastings.

If the second round does not produce the flavor I want, I will do this process a third time. After I know how much sugar is needed to bring out the flavor of the wine, I can calculate how much sugar to add to the 5 gallon carboy. Since I did this with 4 glasses of wine from 1 bottle, it is easy to do the math.

For instance, if 1 tsp. of sugar is needed for a glass of wine, I know I need 4 tsp. for one bottle of wine.  There are 25 bottles of wine per carboy, so 425=100 tsp of sugar for 5 gallons. There are 48 tsp in a cup, so I add just over two cups of sugar. (Note: This conversion works with a full carboy. If your carboy is not full, then you need to add a little less sugar. Wine Making is part art, so it doesn't have to be perfect. :)   )

That is how I determine how to sweeten a wine. I usually add just enough sugar to bring the fruit flavor out. But, if you prefer a sweeter wine, you can make that as well. That is the beauty of making you own wine!

Enjoy!



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "JerryM" <jkmccull@...> wrote:
>
> In November, 2009 I fermented 5 gals white zinfadel wine. After the fermentation had stopped, I tranferred the wine to a an air-locked glass carboy for aging. I racked it every 5 weeks until April, 2010. I had my significant other taste the wine and she thought its was too sour. So I added sugar to match to her taste. Between April, 2010 and July 2010, I racked the wine twice. I bottled the wine around the first part of August, 2010 and stored it in a wine rack I made in my den.
>
> Since the bottling, I have had 4 bottles blow thier corks and drain thier contents on my den carpet. I have had 7 other bottles show an indication that they were going to blow but I managed to save them.
>
> I thought with the racking and 9 months in the carboy, the restart of the fermentation would not occur. What did I do wrong?
>


#39553 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:33 pm
Subject: Re: bicarb question
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Glen,

That might be, but since the reactions are sped up at higher temperatures, I
always figured most of what I want to happen will happen during heatup and
distillation. Of course, I've been wrong before.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Glen - BetGear" <glen@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> According to a post I've read somewhere (most likely home distiller), if
> you're using bicarb, then it should be left in the low wines to infuse for
> 3-4 days before running through the still.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Glen.
>
>
>
>----snip----

#39554 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:40 pm
Subject: Re: bicarb question
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 
Another oily alcohol (not really an ester) is Furfural found in the
tails that gives rum some if its flavor, according to some souces I have
read.

JB.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
wrote:
>
> Justin,
>
> Isobutyl propionate is one of the rum oils, and for the life of me, I
can't find the other. Sorry.
>
> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller (evidently simpler than usual)
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, justin webster mail@ wrote:
> >
> > thanks,
> > can you name the two esters you're talking about here?
> > is one Isobutyl Propionate?

#39555 From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:40 pm
Subject: Re: Backsweeting - a wine question
tgfoitwoods
Send Email Send Email
 
Jerry,

I think Harry's #3 is the easiest way to go. Wine-making and home-brewing shops
all stock "wine conditioner", a mixture of invert sugar for sweetening, and
potassium sorbate to stop the fermentation. It's both easy and effective.

No matter how much you rack, all it takes is one surviving yeast cell with an
urge to reproduce and some sugar, and you risk bottle bombs.

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
>
> Fermentation...it ain't over 'till it's over Jerry.
>
> Seriously I know bugger all about winemaking.  But there's plenty on here who
do.  Our mod Jim is one.  There's also a heap of books in the Library you could
refer to.  But at a guess I'd say you need to pasteurise your wine before
bottling, to kill any yeasts, particularly if you've added a sweetener (sugar is
a yeast food & growth item).
>
> I did a quick google and found this...
>
>
> How to Kill Wine Yeast
> By Anna Roberts, eHow Contributor
> updated: January 14, 2010
>
> Yeast is a necessary component in wine-making, but at a certain point, the
yeast fermentation must be stopped. When fermentation is finished, some yeast
still remains in the wine. If it is not killed before bottling, it can result in
further fermentation, turning your hard work to vinegar, breaking bottles or
blowing corks. There are four ways to kill the wine yeast to stop fermentation.
>
> Instructions.
>
> 1
> Let the yeast starve. In this method, you simply let the yeast consume all of
the sugar until there is nothing left to eat, at which point it simply starves.
This will produce a dry wine. To get a sweet wine, stop fermentation sooner,
before all the sugar has been converted. You may also sweeten the wine again
after all the yeast is dead, without fear of restarting fermentation.
>
> 2
> Heat the wine to 150 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 minutes. The yeast cannot
survive this pasteurization process. Be aware that the cooking method of killing
yeast can yield unpredictable changes to the taste of the wine.
>
> 3
> Add sulfites or sorbates (usually Campden tablets and potassium sorbate) to
the wine. This is how commercial wines are usually stabilized, but keep in mind
that some people are allergic to sulfites. Use one crushed Campden tablet per
gallon of wine. Use a half teaspoon of potassium sorbate per gallon of wine.
>
> 4
> Let the alcohol kill the yeast. Yeast can only live in an environment with a
certain amount of alcohol. Wine yeasts in particular can only survive up to
about 6 or 8 percent alcohol.
> .
>
> Read more: How to Kill Wine Yeast | eHow.com
http://www.ehow.com/how_5867337_kill-wine-yeast.html#ixzz14vfAQUxM
>
>
> HTH
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
> http://distillers.tastylime.net
>

#39556 From: "missouri_bootlegger" <siscoweb@...>
Date: Thu Nov 11, 2010 6:16 pm
Subject: Re:corn
missouri_boo...
Send Email Send Email
 
My biggest problem has been conversion rates the recipes say they get
1.070-1.090sg and I get 1.020-1.030sg I don't get much alcohol from a 5 gal
mash. So I have invested in a bigger pot and fermenter. I have done one 10 gal
mash using flaked wheat I got  1.034sg but used an old turbo the yeast was dead
and I got a bacteria in it while I was waiting for it to start I repitched it
but too late.  I had to throw it out.
   The sugar washes I have no problem with and I have been spending lots of time
getting better reflux distilling and pot distilling rum and JUSSM.
   I have a grinder and some corn now and I and going to do a corn mash next
week. I do have a question what recipe would you start with?

Thanks Michael

Messages 39518 - 39556 of 43821   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Add to My Yahoo!      XML What's This?

Copyright 2010 Yahoo! Inc. All rights reserved.
Privacy Policy - Terms of Service - Guidelines NEW - Help