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  • Founded: Mar 20, 2000
  • Language: English
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#37245 From: "bbbob194713" <bbbob@...>
Date: Thu Nov 5, 2009 11:04 pm
Subject: Re: need a answer
bbbob194713
Send Email Send Email
 
How can i get the abv up on the wash i don't fully under stand how it works i
think it started out on 5-7%abv which i don't think is very high  thanks,,,bbbob



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bbbob194713" <bbbob@> wrote:
> >
> > I put in Masons cornflake wash with some stuff i had cleaned from a house i
box raisin bran and i box rice crispis tomatoe past and mollasses and the rest
of it but i put double yeast by mistake ,started with 1060sg i did not know how
to get it up any higher so i left it, the first day it went mad sacond day 1030
and now 3rd day 1000 and it is still moving how long should it take, and how
could i have got it any higher in sg i think it started about 7%abv total wash
was 40lts         2 x 20lt  thanks,,, bbbob
> >
>
>
> If it's down to 1000 it's done.  You better run it.  Rack it off the lees
first & use said lees to start your next mash.
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>

#37246 From: "vodkaman1976" <vodkaman1976@...>
Date: Thu Nov 5, 2009 11:47 pm
Subject: Persimmon Brandy Question
vodkaman1976
Send Email Send Email
 
Ok so tuesday night I mashed up all 20 pounds of persimmons. I added 6 gallons
water, 8lbs of sugar, 4 camden tablets, 2 tablespoons of acid blend, 1 tblspn
dap, and 2 crushed multi vitamins, and 2 packets of lalvin ec-1118. I aerated
the mixture for 30 minutes right off the bat. I went to check my SG but found my
hygrometer was broke in half, so I have no idea what my SG was. After 1 day I
added i more tblspn of dap and another pound of sugar. The 2nd day the fruit all
floated to the top and formed a firm cap. So i've been stirring the cap back
into the mix and aerating the mixture. My question is how long should I let this
thing ferment out? With no way to read my SG is there just a general time frame
like 5 days or does fruit take longer to complete a ferment?

#37247 From: Paul Smith <praxis178@...>
Date: Thu Nov 5, 2009 11:48 pm
Subject: Re: Re: need a answer
praxis178
Send Email Send Email
 
Start with more sugar (either as sugar or as flaked grain) in you mash and the wort will have a higher original gravity, but really for best results you want a lower initial ABV.
 
If you look up what the pro's use you would find that their washes are all around the 7-10%ABV mark for high quality Whiskey/Scotch. So your wash is right in the ball park, run it and enjoy the fruits of your labours. <grin>
 
P.

--- On Thu, 5/11/09, bbbob194713 <bbbob@...> wrote:

From: bbbob194713 <bbbob@...>
Subject: [new_distillers] Re: need a answer
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 11:04 PM

 

How can i get the abv up on the wash i don't fully under stand how it works i think it started out on 5-7%abv which i don't think is very high thanks,,,bbbob

--- In new_distillers@ yahoogroups. com, "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@ ...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@ yahoogroups. com, "bbbob194713" <bbbob@> wrote:
> >
> > I put in Masons cornflake wash with some stuff i had cleaned from a house i box raisin bran and i box rice crispis tomatoe past and mollasses and the rest of it but i put double yeast by mistake ,started with 1060sg i did not know how to get it up any higher so i left it, the first day it went mad sacond day 1030 and now 3rd day 1000 and it is still moving how long should it take, and how could i have got it any higher in sg i think it started about 7%abv total wash was 40lts 2 x 20lt thanks,,, bbbob
> >
>
>
> If it's down to 1000 it's done. You better run it. Rack it off the lees first & use said lees to start your next mash.
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>



Win 1 of 4 Sony home entertainment packs thanks to Yahoo!7. Enter now.

#37248 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 12:20 am
Subject: Re: Persimmon Brandy Question
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Couple of ways Vodka,

Keep stirring the cap on a daily basis - not vigorously - lightly to keep the CO2 cap on it.  Watch the bubbles.  They will start going from small ones to larger ones and the cap will start to dissapate.  These are called "dog bubbles' and will start becomming larger and slower. 

Secondly, taste the stuff, when it changes from sweet to dry and a bit bitter (you can taste the acidity) its done.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

Heck, I broke mine last year and never bothered to replace it...;)


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "vodkaman1976" <vodkaman1976@...> wrote:
>
> Ok so tuesday night I mashed up all 20 pounds of persimmons. I added 6 gallons water, 8lbs of sugar, 4 camden tablets, 2 tablespoons of acid blend, 1 tblspn dap, and 2 crushed multi vitamins, and 2 packets of lalvin ec-1118. I aerated the mixture for 30 minutes right off the bat. I went to check my SG but found my hygrometer was broke in half, so I have no idea what my SG was. After 1 day I added i more tblspn of dap and another pound of sugar. The 2nd day the fruit all floated to the top and formed a firm cap. So i've been stirring the cap back into the mix and aerating the mixture. My question is how long should I let this thing ferment out? With no way to read my SG is there just a general time frame like 5 days or does fruit take longer to complete a ferment?
>


#37249 From: "vodkaman1976" <vodkaman1976@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 12:35 am
Subject: Re: Persimmon Brandy Question
vodkaman1976
Send Email Send Email
 
Will the cap fall on its own or just when I stir it back into the wash? I
mean when it's done working or will it always clump up to the top? Also as u
said taste it to see if it's done, when there is no more sweetness to the taste
it will be done? Sorry for the complete lack of knowledge on this but it is my
first fruit fermentation and its already a lot different from a sugar wash.

#37250 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 1:35 am
Subject: Re: Persimmon Brandy Question
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Consider the dynamics here Vodka.  As the yeast eats up the sugar and produces alcohol and CO2 during the stationary phase, the bubbles of CO2 cause the solids (in your case persimmon fruit) to rise to the top.  As the food (sugar in yeast lingo) is used up, the yeast will start to flocculate to bottom of the fermenter (called lees, which can be used to start a new fermentaion..). 

The CO2 gas will start becomming less and less as the yeast run out of food, and the bubbles will become bigger as the yeast scavage for food on the bottom, and the cap will also sink to the bottom and your fermentation will  start to clear.

As the sugar is used up, you taste buds will start to only taste the dryness, alcohol and acidity from the yeast fermentation.  If you can get a buzz from a cup of it, then you know its done......

Belive me - it works, a bit old fashioned way of testing, but works.  Learned these tricks from some ol' timer moonshiners who couldn't even pronounce that hydo- meter thingy....;).

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "vodkaman1976" <vodkaman1976@...> wrote:
>
>
> Will the cap fall on its own or just when I stir it back into the wash? I mean when it's done working or will it always clump up to the top? Also as u said taste it to see if it's done, when there is no more sweetness to the taste it will be done? Sorry for the complete lack of knowledge on this but it is my first fruit fermentation and its already a lot different from a sugar wash.
>


#37251 From: Bob Dobinns <bbbob@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 2:06 pm
Subject: Re: Re: need a answer
bbbob194713
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks for your comments, its nice to know you are doing it right it gos in the still tomorrow,Cant wait ,,,, bbbob



--- On Thu, 5/11/09, Paul Smith <praxis178@...> wrote:

From: Paul Smith <praxis178@...>
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: need a answer
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 3:48 PM

 

Start with more sugar (either as sugar or as flaked grain) in you mash and the wort will have a higher original gravity, but really for best results you want a lower initial ABV.
 
If you look up what the pro's use you would find that their washes are all around the 7-10%ABV mark for high quality Whiskey/Scotch. So your wash is right in the ball park, run it and enjoy the fruits of your labours. <grin>
 
P.

--- On Thu, 5/11/09, bbbob194713 <bbbob@y7mail. com> wrote:

From: bbbob194713 <bbbob@y7mail. com>
Subject: [new_distillers] Re: need a answer
To: new_distillers@ yahoogroups. com
Received: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 11:04 PM

 

How can i get the abv up on the wash i don't fully under stand how it works i think it started out on 5-7%abv which i don't think is very high thanks,,,bbbob

--- In new_distillers@ yahoogroups. com, "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@ ...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@ yahoogroups. com, "bbbob194713" <bbbob@> wrote:
> >
> > I put in Masons cornflake wash with some stuff i had cleaned from a house i box raisin bran and i box rice crispis tomatoe past and mollasses and the rest of it but i put double yeast by mistake ,started with 1060sg i did not know how to get it up any higher so i left it, the first day it went mad sacond day 1030 and now 3rd day 1000 and it is still moving how long should it take, and how could i have got it any higher in sg i think it started about 7%abv total wash was 40lts 2 x 20lt thanks,,, bbbob
> >
>
>
> If it's down to 1000 it's done. You better run it. Rack it off the lees first & use said lees to start your next mash.
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>



Win 1 of 4 Sony home entertainment packs thanks to Yahoo!7. Enter now.



Get more done like never before with Yahoo!7 Mail. Learn more.

#37252 From: "Kevin" <healeykb3@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 9:49 pm
Subject: New condenser pics in photos
healeykb3
Send Email Send Email
 
I am trying to wrap a double helix for my reflux condenser, can anyone advise on
how to achieve something similar to what is being shown in the newest photos
here? Size of tubing? Right size pipe for form? Heat applied? I am trying to
squeeze the condenser into a 2" stainless sanitary tube 16" long, 2" being the
outside diameter. All insight welcome.

#37253 From: "rumrunner1616" <meriwetherdistilleries@...>
Date: Sat Nov 7, 2009 7:48 pm
Subject: Charter
rumrunner1616
Send Email Send Email
 
Hey there, any of you down south boys have a recipe for charter?  I've heard of
it but I don't really know exactly what it is.  From what I understand it's
kissing cousins with standard corn whiskey.  Thanks in advance!

#37254 From: "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 5:18 am
Subject: Re: Charter
gnikomson2000
Send Email Send Email
 
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rumrunner1616"
<meriwetherdistilleries@...> wrote:
>
> Hey there, any of you down south boys have a recipe for charter?  I've heard
of it but I don't really know exactly what it is.  From what I understand it's
kissing cousins with standard corn whiskey.  Thanks in advance!
>


A quick search turned up this...
http://tinyurl.com/ygzsmt2


Slainte!
regards Harry

#37255 From: "stooret" <stooret@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 4:30 pm
Subject: Distilling Meed Anyone?
stooret
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi All

So my friend gave me 5gal of two year old meed to distill and i dont know what
to do? It tastes good if you like meed i dont really but i cant imagine the
distillate being any good either... Has anyone tried this and what is called
other than silly

Thanks' yall
Stooret

#37256 From: "dsmith1997" <dsmith1997@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 5:45 pm
Subject: Bokabob as a pot still?
dsmith1997
Send Email Send Email
 
Greetings, I have a bokabob design relux unit, 1.5" x 42" unit and
I want to make some flavored stuff. I seen other posts
that mention you can use the bokabob as a pot still by
just removing the packing. Is this true? Any other
requirements? I do have a small pot still made from a
pressure cooker but the boiler is only a gallon size or
so. I'd rather use the bokabob unit if it's possible?

Comments?, Thanks, Duane

#37257 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 10:17 pm
Subject: Re: Bokabob as a pot still?
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Yes Duane,

There's several postings on people using the boka as a pot still - heres one:

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

Re: Building the bokabob

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "stavjen" <eutherian@...> wrote:
>
> I am going to build a still and due to the advice I've been given the
> bokabob seems to be the best way to go as I will only be producing
> neutral spirtis.

I originally ran mine as a reflux only making neutral. I then
discovered the beauty of pot stilling and have only done that since
then . Just take most of the packing out and run it wide open


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "dsmith1997" <dsmith1997@...> wrote:
>
> Greetings, I have a bokabob design relux unit, 1.5" x 42" unit and
> I want to make some flavored stuff. I seen other posts
> that mention you can use the bokabob as a pot still by
> just removing the packing. Is this true? Any other
> requirements? I do have a small pot still made from a
> pressure cooker but the boiler is only a gallon size or
> so. I'd rather use the bokabob unit if it's possible?
>
> Comments?, Thanks, Duane
>


#37258 From: "rumrunner1616" <meriwetherdistilleries@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 10:33 pm
Subject: Re: Charter
rumrunner1616
Send Email Send Email
 
Yeah, I saw the "Old Charter" in my search.  I don't think that's what I'm
looking for.  The way it was described to me it seemed it was a type of booze
rather than a brand name.  Made by home distilling, corn whiskey entrepreneurs. 
The gent who clued me in is from N. Carolina, maybe that will help shine some
light.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rumrunner1616"
<meriwetherdistilleries@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey there, any of you down south boys have a recipe for charter?  I've heard
of it but I don't really know exactly what it is.  From what I understand it's
kissing cousins with standard corn whiskey.  Thanks in advance!
> >
>
>
> A quick search turned up this...
> http://tinyurl.com/ygzsmt2
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>

#37259 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 11:03 pm
Subject: Re: Charter
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 

Hey Rum,

Harry, being one of the most "down south" boys around here, (although me thinks Ken Mc. has him beat living in New Zealand), is correct.

Myself, just living in southern Virgini, has never tasted Old Charter. But hear its a decent Bourbon, although it doesn't have quite the recognition of the big name brands like Jim Beam, Evan Williams, Wild Turkey, and Maker's Mark with the good ol' boys around these parts.

I wouldn't quite consider it as a "kissing cousin" to corn whiskeys around here, but instead,  it being a Kentucky Bourbon, would make it the father of corn whiskeys...  Bourbon was the first corn whiskey made in America when Bourbon county stretched from Tennessee to Kentucky and included most of Virginia.

Bourbon as you might know is the National drink of USA and as such is under strict federal guide lines on its manufacture.  Check out their distillery - Buffalo Trace, which is a well known Bourbon at:  http://www.buffalotrace.com/  also read up on Bourbon at: http://www.greatbourbon.com/proof.aspx

Unfortunately, as with most commercial liquors, you will not be able to get the exact recipe for it.  Closest your going to come is that unlike Maker's Mark, which contains corn, barley and wheat, they use corn, rye and barley in theirs....  See Below.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo. 

The Grain

Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is expertly crafted in the time-honored tradition unique to bourbon. Buffalo Trace begins with the finest Kentucky and Indiana corn, selected rye, and superior malted barley. Together, these grains represent our unique mash bill–a trade secret known only by those craftsmen responsible for producing this highest-quality whiskey.

Upon delivery the grains undergo a general visual inspection for any obvious abnormalities. Bushel weight is then checked to ensure the grain demonstrates the proper baseline characteristics. Finally, a sample of the grain is tested in the distillery laboratory to determine if it meets Buffalo Trace's rigid standards for moisture levels and chemical balance.
 

The Milling

To prepare the newly received grains for the mashing process, they must first be carefully milled to exactly the right specifications. Grains at Buffalo Trace are milled with a hammer mill using a screen that only allows particles of milled grain as large as 10/64 of an inch in diameter through. In our experience, we have found that this size screen, called a #10, lets more of the true grain through to be part of the mash without compromising the integrity of the mash itself. The next larger screen would allow whole kernels of rye and barley through, and the next smaller screen would create too fine a grain, causing the mash to become too thick.
 

The Mash

Mashing water–fresh and rich with minerals from its natural filtration through Kentucky limestone–is heated in a steam-generated pressure cooker. Once the water reaches the proper temperature, the corn is cooked under pressure until it is ready for rye to be added. After the addition of the rye, a malted barley slurry is added to the mixture, which allows its activated enzymes to turn the starch from the cooked grains into a soluble sugar. The new mixture is, at this point, a sweet mash.
 

Fermentation

This part of the process takes place in our 12 fermenters – with each fermenter holding 89,962 gallons; they are the largest in the industry. After the mash has cooled, yeast is added with a small amount of the previously fermented and distilled mash, also known as sour mash. The sugar present in the mash feeds the yeast to produce alcohol and carbon dioxide. The uniquely rich nutrients of the pure Kentucky limestone water used in this process also enrich the yeast. Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey undergoes a natural fermentation lasting anywhere from three to five days.
 

The Distillation Process

The fermented mixture, or beer, complete with solids, enters the top of the beer still and descends through plates, similar to those in a coffee percolator. Steam, pumped in from the bottom of the still, encounters the falling beer, creating an alcohol-rich vapor. The vapor is then recondensed and passed through a second still, known as a doubler, to create a crystal clear liquid that, by law, can be no more than 160 proof, or 80% alcohol by volume. For Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, however, the final liquid is removed from the doubler at a significantly lower proof in order to preserve more of the flavor and characteristics of the grains. This liquid, which is commonly referred to as raw spirit or "white dog," is then entered into newly charred, virgin white oak barrels. Consistent with our desire to optimize flavor and characteristics of the grains, we enter the white dog into the barrels at 125 proof.
 

The Barrels

Before Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is placed into barrels, the barrels themselves undergo a rigid inspection. Barrels to be used for Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey must be made of naturally aged, "center ring" wood from trees typically 70 to 80 years old. This center ring falls between the outer ring, called sapwood, and the core of the tree. Our standards for wood selection are more expensive, but they make for a finer whiskey. Also, the grain of the wood is inspected for coarseness. Very fine wood grain results in immature whiskey that is weak and less flavorful. Grain that is too coarse leads to an excessive wood taste. Barrels also are reviewed for broken or cracked staves and open joints. As a result of these criteria, Buffalo Trace Distillery has the highest rejection rate of barrels in the industry.
 

The Aging

While every step of the production process is important, Buffalo Trace Distillery believes the aging process is the greatest factor in producing truly outstanding whiskey. The Distillery's best whiskey comes from aging in Warehouses C, I and K, and only on selected floors. For instance, the fourth and fifth floors of Warehouse C and the fourth through sixth floors of Warehouses I and K produce the distillery's finest whiskey. These floors represent the middle floors in each of the warehouses and have the greatest temperature changes in the course of a year–the key to reaching full maturity and producing a balanced whiskey. Warehouses C, I and K also are rick warehouses constructed from large wood beams and surrounded by a brick shell. Each of the warehouses has an earthen floor, which best allows nature to do its part in the aging process and produce truly outstanding whiskey. Additionally, steam pumped throughout the warehouses during the extreme cold of winter compensates for the dramatic drops in temperature and gives the whiskey additional cycles in and out of the wood.
 

The Selection

Only the best bourbon produced by the distillery is bottled as Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. Approximately 30-35 barrels of aged whiskey are selected from the middle floors of Warehouses C, I and K. Samples from these barrels are reviewed by the distillery's tasting panel. If any one taster rejects a sample, the barrel it represents will not be used for Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. Only the barrels of approved bourbon samples (usually no more than 25-30 barrels) will be married and bottled as Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey.
 

The Filtration

Whiskey from selected barrels is married and passed through a chill filtration process, lowering the temperature of the bourbon to below 30"F (-1ºC). This process ensures that more of the color and flavor naturally present in the bourbon is maintained than does filtering through activated charcoal. The bourbon is then reduced to 90 proof, its bottling proof (45% ABV), using water that has undergone reverse osmosis filtration. Buffalo Trace Distillery was the first distillery to use this process, which is regarded as a benchmark within the industry for producing the highest quality bourbon. Reverse osmosis water begins as pure Kentucky limestone water that is placed in a tank containing a double-sided filter. This filter is cycled through the water, removing all the minerals and producing the purest form of water obtainable.

No other colors or flavors are added to the final product, a claim only bourbon, among all whiskeys, can make. Buffalo Trace's proprietary bottles are then carefully filled, corked and sealed by hand, and then packed for limited distribution.
 

The Taste

Light bronze in color with streaks of gold, Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey bears a complex aroma of vanilla, mint, and molasses. Its taste is pleasantly sweet and contains notes of brown sugar and spice that give way to oak and leather. The long and dry finish has significant depth. When enjoyed with water, flavors of toffee, dark fruit and anise are revealed.
 


 

Technical Facts

Spirit Type: Bourbon
Region of Origin: Franklin County, Kentucky
Recipe: Corn, Rye, and Barley. Exact specification is proprietary.
Corn: Kentucky and Indiana
Rye: North Dakota, South Dakota and Minnesota
Barley: North Dakota, South Dakota and Minnesota
Milling Screen: #10
Water: Kentucky limestone with reverse osmosis process
Distillation: Double distilled using a beer still and a doubler
Barrel-Entry Proof: 125
Barrel Size: 53 liquid gallons; 66.25 original proof gallons
Evaporation Loss During Maturation: Approximately 33%
Barrel Selection: 25-30 barrels
Proof: 90
Alcohol Content: 45% (ABV)


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rumrunner1616" meriwetherdistilleries@ wrote:
> >
> > Hey there, any of you down south boys have a recipe for charter? I've heard of it but I don't really know exactly what it is. From what I understand it's kissing cousins with standard corn whiskey. Thanks in advance!
> >
>
>
> A quick search turned up this...
> http://tinyurl.com/ygzsmt2
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>


#37260 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 11:26 pm
Subject: Re: Charter
jamesonbeam1
Send Email Send Email
 
Rum,

It then must be a local nicname for something with corn, probably rye
also.  Ask your friend to be a bit more specific.  Never hear of
anything other then Charter Bourbon next door here in Virgini.

JB.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rumrunner1616"
<meriwetherdistilleries@...> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I saw the "Old Charter" in my search. I don't think that's what
I'm looking for. The way it was described to me it seemed it was a type
of booze rather than a brand name. Made by home distilling, corn whiskey
entrepreneurs. The gent who clued me in is from N. Carolina, maybe that
will help shine some light.

#37261 From: "Eddie" <hphaeww@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 2:20 am
Subject: Are these links still available??
hphaeww
Send Email Send Email
 
I was going through old posts (2000's) and came across several links that are no
longer available.  Does anyone know if this information can still be recovered
from another site??
_____________________________________________________________

   I'm using a 10 litre soup pan with a stillmaker still and it works fine; have
a look at: http://www.ozemail.com.au/~azamith/
             Go to the link "well-built stills" and you'll see my first still in
the second picture and my stillmaker still in numbers six and seven.
             Also look at:
             http://www.geocities.com/kiwi_distiller/
             under "photo's\modern stills"; where you can also read some of my
comments on the stills.
____________________________________________________________

thanks
ew

#37262 From: "stooret" <stooret@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 2:51 pm
Subject: What should i use for my seal on the still?
stooret
Send Email Send Email
 
HI all

I use a rye and wheat paste to seal now any other suggestions?

Stooret

#37263 From: Peat Reek <peatreek@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 3:38 pm
Subject: pot o-ring material
peatreek
Send Email Send Email
 
I am tired of cleaning the flour paste residue off my pot and lid after a run.  It took about 3 minutes to clean the pot yesterday, then another 10 to get the hard flour residue off.  I am going to order some o-ring cord from a local distributor.  They have both silicone and viton available, sold by the foot.  The silicone is 50 durometer, the softest viton is 70.  While I think either will work just find to seal my lid, I was wondering which material would be better to use from a hot alcohol perspective?  The silicon is $0.39/foot where the viton is $1.62 per foot.  I need less than ten, though I would want to make two, just to have a spare.  Anyone have an opinion? 


#37264 From: "stooret" <stooret@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 4:30 pm
Subject: Re: pot o-ring material
stooret
Send Email Send Email
 
I have used silicon before but when it heated up it stuck to the pot and came
apart when i tried to open.  I was useing NSF silicon from a tube that i made a
large even bead around the lid lip though not a rope thing.

Stooret

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Peat Reek <peatreek@...> wrote:
>
> I am tired of cleaning the flour paste residue off my pot and lid after a
run.  It took about 3 minutes to clean the pot yesterday, then another 10 to get
the hard flour residue off.  I am going to order some o-ring cord from a local
distributor.  They have both silicone and viton available, sold by the foot. 
The silicone is 50 durometer, the softest viton is 70.  While I think either
will work just find to seal my lid, I was wondering which material would be
better to use from a hot alcohol perspective?  The silicon is $0.39/foot where
the viton is $1.62 per foot.  I need less than ten, though I would want to make
two, just to have a spare.  Anyone have an opinion? 
>

#37265 From: Peat Reek <peatreek@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 5:47 pm
Subject: Re: Re: pot o-ring material
peatreek
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Maybe I'm just being cheap, but a difference of $1.23 per foot and I was considering it.  The feedback I've gotten is that if I can afford the Viton, that is the stuff to use.  For an additional $12, I guess that's the way to go.

> I have used silicon before but when it heated up it stuck to the pot and came apart when i tried to open.  I was useing NSF silicon from a tube that i made a large even bead around the lid lip though not a rope thing.


#37266 From: "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 8:32 pm
Subject: Re: pot o-ring material
gnikomson2000
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--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Peat Reek <peatreek@...> wrote:
>
> Maybe I'm just being cheap, but a difference of $1.23 per foot and I was
considering it.  The feedback I've gotten is that if I can afford the Viton,
that is the stuff to use.  For an additional $12, I guess that's the way to go.
>
> > I have used silicon before but when it heated up it stuck to the pot and
came apart when i tried to open.  I was useing NSF silicon from a tube that i
made a large even bead around the lid lip though not a rope thing.
>


If you need any convincing, check out this...

http://www.smooth-on.com/gallery.php?galleryid=114


Slainte!
regards Harry

#37267 From: Peat Reek <peatreek@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 8:53 pm
Subject: Re: Re: pot o-ring material
peatreek
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Harry -
 
I'm not sure what you are getting at - do you think the Vytaflex is a Viton derivative?
 
P
> If you need any convincing, check out this...
> http://www.smooth-on.com/gallery.php?galleryid=114
 


#37268 From: "gnikomson2000" <gnikomson2000@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 9:31 pm
Subject: Re: pot o-ring material
gnikomson2000
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--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Peat Reek <peatreek@...> wrote:
>
> Harry -
>
> I'm not sure what you are getting at - do you think the Vytaflex is a Viton
derivative?
>
> P


What I'm getting at is there are lots of ways to make durable gaskets for
cooking pots.  The Info & videos on that site are very informative.

Oh, and for those who are squeamish about synthetics because they don't know the
meaning of the word 'inert', or just prefer 'au natural'...

Pressure type gaskets can be fashioned for most mating surfaces out
of...LEATHER.  Works a treat.

And the correct way to do flour paste seals is to use RYE flour...
http://www.copper-alembic.com/manufacturing/specs_sealing.php?lang=en

Adding a few drops of cold-pressed linseed oil to the rye mix is another good
tip.


Slainte!
regards Harry

#37269 From: "landrover_ffr" <sid.rains@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:31 am
Subject: Malt in Chistchurch (NZ)
landrover_ffr
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Hi,
I've got about 20kg of 6 row pale malt if anyone in the Christchurch NZ area
would like to have a play. Say $2.50/kg, but willing to barter ;)

It seems to convert well as a mug like me can get over 70% extraction efficiency
using a rolling pin grain mill and a kitchen sieve lauter tun. I bought a 30kg
bag and am just playing so more than happy to share some.

Regards,
Sid.

#37270 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: New condenser pics in photos
jamesonbeam1
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Hey Kevin,

Theres some pretty good instructions with pictures on Sherman's site - Artisian Distillers on how to wind a coil - see: http://www.artisan-distiller.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1689

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <healeykb3@...> wrote:
>
> I am trying to wrap a double helix for my reflux condenser, can anyone advise on how to achieve something similar to what is being shown in the newest photos here? Size of tubing? Right size pipe for form? Heat applied? I am trying to squeeze the condenser into a 2" stainless sanitary tube 16" long, 2" being the outside diameter. All insight welcome.
>


#37271 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:44 pm
Subject: Re: Distilling Meed Anyone?
jamesonbeam1
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Hi Stooret,

While not being a connoisseur of mead either, distilled mead has been around for a while.  Welsh mythology mentioned mead distilling back in the 4th and 5th centuries and is mentioned in in the "Mead Song" back in the 6th century.  See: http://www.celticmalts.com/journal.asp?cat=51&hierarchy=0|4|9

While theres only a few distillers of mead today,  Krupnik is a sweet Polish liqueur from mead and a version of this called "honey jack" can be made by partly freezing a quantity of mead and pouring off the liquid without the ice crystals (a process known as freeze distillation), in the same way that applejack is made.

In the US, Dolmen Distillery is a small artisan distillery specializing in mead liqour.  See: http://www.dolmen.arbre.us/index.html

I would just proceed with it as with any flavored brown stuff - strip it and then do a spirits run, making your cuts and mixing and matching to taste, then throw it on some oak.

Good Luck.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

 --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "stooret" <stooret@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> So my friend gave me 5gal of two year old meed to distill and i dont know what to do? It tastes good if you like meed i dont really but i cant imagine the distillate being any good either... Has anyone tried this and what is called other than silly
>
> Thanks' yall
> Stooret
>


#37272 From: "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:12 pm
Subject: Re: Are these links still available??
jamesonbeam1
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Sorry Eddie,

Looks like those links are gonzzoes.  Why we encourage people to post
their pics on this site for posterity sake.  So unless Harry knows a way
to resurrect those sites, your sol...

Sorry.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Eddie" <hphaeww@...> wrote:
>
>
> I was going through old posts (2000's) and came across several links
that are no longer available. Does anyone know if this information can
still be recovered from another site??
> _____________________________________________________________
>
> I'm using a 10 litre soup pan with a stillmaker still and it works
fine; have a look at: http://www.ozemail.com.au/~azamith/
> Go to the link "well-built stills" and you'll see my first still in
the second picture and my stillmaker still in numbers six and seven.
> Also look at:
> http://www.geocities.com/kiwi_distiller/
> under "photo's\modern stills"; where you can also read some of my
comments on the stills.
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> thanks
> ew
>

#37273 From: "triddlywinks" <triddlywinks@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:37 pm
Subject: Re: pot o-ring material
triddlywinks
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Trid's quick-n-dirty pot gasket method:

1) Acquire your silicone of choice.  Personally, I'm ok with acetic cure
silicone (GE Silicone I, for example) but if you're not happy or comfortable
with that, go the extra mile for "neutral cure" aquarium silicone.  I don't have
any experience with other "gasket in a tube" products, so YMMV if you're
experimenting with something other than silicone.

2) On a flat surface at *least* as big as your pot lid, lay out some plastic
wrap/cling film/wax paper to cover an area slightly larger than your pot lid. 
It probably goes without saying, but overlap your sheets as opposed to butting
the edges together.

3) Make sure the surface of the lid's rim (where the gasket will be applied) is
clean and dust/oil free.

4) Apply a bead of your gasket goop to the rim of your lid.  It doesn't have to
be pretty, but it does have to make a complete ring.

5) Take your freshly gooped up lid and set it, goop side down, on to the surface
you covered in step 2 and squish it down until you see the goop emerge from the
edge...all the way around.  You can wipe away any big globs.

6) Walk away.  Don't come back to it for at least a day.

7) If a day hasn't passed, refer back to 6.

8) Unless it's a gasket material that specifically calls for a curing time of >
24 hours, go ahead and pick your lid up, peel off the plastic/wax paper, and
inspect your new seal.  You might find bubbles or voids where there should be
gasket material but isn't.  You might also find spots where the gasket is a
little too narrow to make good contact with the boiler.  Fill any holes with a
small dollop of goop and then repeat steps 2 through 6 once more to give your
seal a bit more thickness and to fill in any gaps or narrow spots.

9) When you're satisfied with the width and thickness of your seal, wait another
day or ten for it to cure more thoroughly (or more if the label info on your
gasket material says so).

10) Before you trim away any excess material, make sure it makes complete
contact with the rim of your boiler.

11) Do a water run to check for leaks (plus a little heat will contribute to the
curing of the goop).

Trid
-I'm going on 5+ years with my seal applied using this method.

#37274 From: "jazzdoren2k3" <jazzvandoren@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:45 pm
Subject: Re: MSUCM-More advice needed
jazzdoren2k3
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Ok, so I'm ready to head home and start this.  But, I'm still not sure I fully
understand.

I take 2 18ounce boxes of corn flakes, grind them up, boil them in 2 gallons of
water, pull it from the heat then add 5lbs of corn meal?  I dump all that into
my fermenter, then dissolve 7lbs of sugar into a separate 2 gallons of
water...add that to my fermenter...add tomato paste and epsom and miracle gro
and vitamins per MUM...then add water to a total of 5 gallons and proper
temperature...then aerate for 6 hours or so.  Ferment down to a 6-7% abv with
hydrometer, rack and settle (do I still use irish moss?), then distill.

Correct?

THANKS!
--The Mad Hatter

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