Hi Guys just mulling over the Intermittient Sour Mash Cycle recipe in
Smiley's Corn Whiskey book.  Has anyone out there tried this recipe and
if so what were the results like.  Any feedback will be very much
appreciated.  Regards thepatchworkdoll

I am facing the possibility that the amount of my wash will be
significantly below the normal amount I strip in my pot still.
(Usually I run three 6 gallon batches and after mixing the three and
watering down, I have about 6 gallons for final run.) To date I have
never run it less than 2/3 full.  Does anyone have any advice on how
low I can go and still get adequate distillation?  Are there any risks
of distilling a much smaller amount than the still was designed? Do I
need to worry about scortching as the volume is reduced?
Thanks,
Whack

i have about 3.5-4 gal. of low wines @ around 60% ABV. can i dilute
this with backset before spirit run for more flavor ?

The only concern would be if you had internal heating elements which
must be covered at all times.  External heating elements will not cause
a problem with scorching.  Ive used as little as 2 quarts in mine.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "whackfol" <whackfol@...> wrote:
>
> I am facing the possibility that the amount of my wash will be
> significantly below the normal amount I strip in my pot still.
> (Usually I run three 6 gallon batches and after mixing the three and
> watering down, I have about 6 gallons for final run.) To date I have
> never run it less than 2/3 full. Does anyone have any advice on how
> low I can go and still get adequate distillation? Are there any risks
> of distilling a much smaller amount than the still was designed? Do I
> need to worry about scortching as the volume is reduced?
> Thanks,
> Whack
>

Yes.  You can use the backset to dilute it (down to 30%) for flavors - i
do this with dunder for my rums too.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "goodneighbor69"
<goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
>
> i have about 3.5-4 gal. of low wines @ around 60% ABV. can i dilute
> this with backset before spirit run for more flavor ?
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thepatchworkdoll"
<peter.coleman20@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys just mulling over the Intermittient Sour Mash Cycle recipe in
> Smiley's Corn Whiskey book.  Has anyone out there tried this recipe and
> if so what were the results like.  Any feedback will be very much
> appreciated.  Regards thepatchworkdoll
>

It works with an adjustment here and there.  I just finished (a couple
of weeks ago) a 5 iteration version of the recipe. Just using
different grains. His recommendation for adding all of the backset
back to the next wash is a little much.  I only used a measured 2
gallons.  My fermentation times did not suffer and I felt like I got a
good product.
Until I fried 2 600 watt elements testing a low power distill on the
grains theory on the final run.
I used Corn meal, cracked wheat and cracked Rye.  Foaming was a pretty
big issue.  There would be well over a foot of head room in the boiler
and when the run was over and I removed the cap there would be foam
residue up to a few inches form the top.  Never puked, but be careful
on power input for stripping.
I think Riku also used this recipe around the same time.

Mason

Results as promised, just a little late...hehehe

I still have about 750ml of my cherry maceration (in three different
containers). I used Jim's method outlined above. As a side note I used
sweet cherries, not sour.
I broke some out over the weekend and it tasted great. Sweet, but not
overpowering. The color is a very deep red. We made some shots with
creme de cocoa and cherry, mixed 50/50. Even the girlfriend likes 'em.
We call 'em "Tootsie Pops" because, well, that is exactly what they
taste like!
Currently have 13 gallons of sugar wash fermenting and I will
definately set aside a couple of liters of spirits for more of the same
macerations. Also blueberry and blackberry unsing the same
method....mmmmm.

Mole
And you said I wouldn't make it 'till Christmas.......:)

In another thread you related your rye recipe.  I asked a final question. Did
you ferment
on the grains and then strain or strain then ferment.  The next entry changed
the topic
and you may not have seen it.  I appreciate your assistance.
Whack

Hey Baker and all,

Been thinking about your comments off and on.  Then remembered (believe it was Bali) that mentioned putting holes in the inlet pipe for the thumper.

So that along with your larger U shaped airlock might be pictured like this - what you all think:  

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gff_stwrt" <gff_stwrt@...> wrote:

> Hi, Jim and all,
>
> I said in another post that my suggested device is a 'u' shape; and
> so is an airlock.
>
> But my device is much longer, maybe half a metre or more, and a
> physicist would call it an open-ended manometer.
> (I know because that's what zBob called it!)
>
> Perhaps I can illustrate the difference this way;
>
> you would have a similar analogy if you compared a handkerchief and a
> bedsheet.
>
> Each is made of woven cotton.
>
> (same material)
>
> Each is a rectangular piece of woven cotton.
>
> (same shape)
>
> And the size is different.
>
> But they are clearly different things and used for different
> purposes. You would neither blow your nose on a bedsheet nor sleep on
> a handkerchief. And each has a different name.
> You would not call a bedsheet a handkerchief.
>
> Does that make it less confusing?
>
> Regards,
>
> The Baker
>

(see picture in Jim's post, should be 34142 but
I won't try to look it up or I will probably
lose the whole damned thing)

Thanks, Jim, that's close to what I was thinking of.
  I had the idea but haven't tried it out; the diameter
  of the tube, the depth of the 'U' (maybe it could be
  as much as twice as 'long' as you have shown)and the
  amount of water you put in it; and perhaps the height
  of the thing relative to the height of the thumper,
  would be matters for trial and error.

It should smooth out the 'thumping' of the thumper,
  and in the form you have shown would act as a safety
  valve, protecting against explosion (over-pressure)
  and implosion (under-pressure, that is vacuum,
caused most likely by failure of the heat supply
to the boiler and the vapour condensing.
Or a sudden shower of rain on the boiler rapidly
cooling the vapour; so I'm tole!)


Try this out (CAREFULLY) by heating some water in a
can to get steam, then take it off the heat, whack
the lid on and spray it with water. The crumple
effect is spectacular and not what you would want
to happen to your still!
(Only likely to happen if you have a thumper,
otherwise the end of the condenser is open to
  the air anyway so unless your condenser tube
is too small....)


It acts as a safety valve because if there is
too much pressure the water is blown out of the tube
so that the system is open to the atmosphere and
the pressure is relieved. And in the case of vacuum in
the system the water in the tube is immediately sucked
into the system which is then open to the atmosphere,
and the pressure is equalized.

The whole thing is mainly applicable to a pot still,
of course, especially one with one or more doublers.

Regards,

The Baker



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
<jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Baker and all,
>
> Been thinking about your comments off and on.  Then remembered
(believe
> it was Bali) that mentioned putting holes in the inlet pipe for the
> thumper.
>
> So that along with your larger U shaped airlock might be pictured
like
> this - what you all think:
>
> Vino es Veritas,
>
> Jim aka Waldo.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gff_stwrt" <gff_stwrt@>
> wrote:
>
>
> > Hi, Jim and all,
> >
> > I said in another post that my suggested device is a 'u' shape;
and
> > so is an airlock.
> >
> > But my device is much longer, maybe half a metre or more, and a
> > physicist would call it an open-ended manometer.
> > (I know because that's what zBob called it!)
> >
> > Perhaps I can illustrate the difference this way;
> >
> > you would have a similar analogy if you compared a handkerchief
and a
> > bedsheet.
> >
> > Each is made of woven cotton.
> >
> > (same material)
> >
> > Each is a rectangular piece of woven cotton.
> >
> > (same shape)
> >
> > And the size is different.
> >
> > But they are clearly different things and used for different
> > purposes. You would neither blow your nose on a bedsheet nor
sleep on
> > a handkerchief. And each has a different name.
> > You would not call a bedsheet a handkerchief.
> >
> > Does that make it less confusing?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > The Baker
> >
>

Yes, I had flaked rye and cooked whole barley. That damn barley had
stayed whole and thus contributed very little to the taste making my
mash very thin in taste (only 0.8 kg rye was used). The endresult may
resemble Irish whiskey after oaking, as it is I do not consider it
drinkable. I did distill it with feints from grains whiskey so that
may have helped some.

I took the backset and started a new serie of three using malt this
time, we'll see how it turns out.

Slainte, Riku


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:
>
> It works with an adjustment here and there.  I just finished (a
couple
> of weeks ago) a 5 iteration version of the recipe. Just using
> different grains. His recommendation for adding all of the backset
> back to the next wash is a little much.  I only used a measured 2
> gallons.  My fermentation times did not suffer and I felt like I
got a
> good product.
> Until I fried 2 600 watt elements testing a low power distill on the
> grains theory on the final run.
> I used Corn meal, cracked wheat and cracked Rye.  Foaming was a
pretty
> big issue.  There would be well over a foot of head room in the
boiler
> and when the run was over and I removed the cap there would be foam
> residue up to a few inches form the top.  Never puked, but be
careful
> on power input for stripping.
> I think Riku also used this recipe around the same time.
>
> Mason
>

Hi Guys ive a question about this water /pressure release system .
1) wont the vapor condense against the liquid in the U shape bend ??
and why couldn't you achieve the same thing by taking the U bend of the
bottom of the Thumper ,that way the pressure in the thumper can still
equalize in the U bend by using its own liquid ,the same as the
illustration but just of the bottom of the thumper tank .
And i reckon the inlet pipe to the thumper should have holes drilled in
it from about 3/4 of the way down and then turn at a 90 deg with a tube
the length of the thumper with a end cap and as many small holes as
possible drilled in it all the way around .
I actually have been playing with this at home using an air com pressure
and it dose seem to work well .
Just a thought
Regards Bali
---
>

Mason,

No problem, no frustration noticed.

Many thanks for the response. You're quite right in that my still
does not religiously follow the plans from Bokakob and that most of
my condensate falls straight back down the column as reflux and only
a small splash gets collected. However, that small splash can be up
to 1l per hour at 90+%.

In the original design, all the condensate falls into a 'pool' on
the take-off plate and then overflows back down the column as
reflux. Is it critical that there's a 'pool' of distillate at the
take-off point?
I'm assuming (please correct me if i'm wrong, i need to learn) that
whatever vapour has emerged at the top of the packing (assuming
appropriate heat input) is as pure as its going to get i.e. all the
separating/stripping has taken place in the packing. If so then
the 'pool' of distillate is not strictly necessary and is just a
method of controlling the output, and my still should produce the
same effect???

I've gone past the 'this works, use it' stage and am into the 'this
works - why?' stage.

Th reason i ask about flow rate is because i get up to 1l per hour
at 90+% on reflux - what would this go up to as a pot still? I'm
assuming again that in the middle of the run you're collecting
everything a fast as possible. Have i got this right?

Many thanks again.

Andy




--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1"
<rye_junkie@...> wrote:
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Andy" <fit_dude42@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mason
> >
> > Thanks for the advice. I already have a small plate on the
bottom of
> > the coils to make the condensate fall down the middle of the
column
> > rather than the edges. My take-off catch plate doesn't extend
into
> > the column by anywhere near as much as the design shows though,
and
> > i know it affects the take-off rate but at 1l per hour at 90+%
i'm
> > not too concerned. But that's on a reflux still, not a pot still.
> > What sort of take-off rate does a pot still achieve? Does
everything
> > that goes up the column get collected? I'm assuming most of it
does,
> > in which case i'll need to extend either the coil plate or catch
> > plate so they're directly under each other.
> >
> > At the moment (if i just remove the packing) most of the
condensate
> > will fall straight back down the column, which i assume is no
good?
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Andy
>
> As I said in the other post.  For "True" pot still performance You
> want to cut back on the amount of reflux.  Most Pot stills built as
> pot stills have a little reflux action going on but nothing near
what
> your rig will have even with the packing out of it.  I understand
that
> you have a coil plate but the other problem is vapor condensating
on
> the coil housing walls.  You have said in the above post that the
take
> off plate does not extend very far.  So most of the condensed
vapor on
> the walls of the housing will by pass that plate on go on into the
> column/packing.  In a reflux column this helps but too much of this
> during a rum run and your going to loose valuable flavors.  You
have a
> couple of choices here.
> A: Step back and look at your design and try to incorporate a way
of
> eliminating "accidental" reflux.  You should control reflux with
the
> valve.  The link I gave you gives you the knowledge you need for
this
> and the info you have given me tell me the upper still head has
some
> issues that need to be resolved to make it both an efficient reflux
> still and pot column.
> B: Build a Pot Rig.  However this is not necessary.
> As for take off rate.  For a spirit run (from low wines) with the
> valve wide open for rum or whiskey what ever say around 1000 watts
> gives you.  Adjust your heat to around that liter/hour.Beware
though.
>  When your just starting out with Rums and Whiskeys low and slow is
> the way to go.
> If I seem frustrated it is not pointed at you.  I am having trouble
> finding the correct words today.  My fault.
>
> Mason
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "whackfol" <whackfol@...> wrote:
>
> In another thread you related your rye recipe.  I asked a final
question. Did you ferment
> on the grains and then strain or strain then ferment.  The next
entry changed the topic
> and you may not have seen it.  I appreciate your assistance.
> Whack
>

Sorry for the late reply Whack,  I have been pretty ill since Friday.
Fever,Dizzy,Sinus.  Better this morning.
I ferment on the grains and then Strain and distill.  The only thing I
recommend further is after straining let the wash settle in a carboy
for 24-48 hours to settle some more of the yeast sediment out.  Then
Rack and Distill.

Mason

does any body know of any designs for smaller stills than the half
barrel incorporating 2 and 3 inch, tube. i was hoping that 42mm and
54mm might be acceptable for the construction of valved reflux, and
using a smaller boiler as i can obtain these materials more easily and
cheaply than the imperial tubes and especially the fittings. as a
complete novice to distilling but not to home brew, any thing from the
more experienced will be welcomed to get me going!!!

So, I made up a malt rye brew
51% malted rye
28% 2 row barley
20% brewers grade corn syrup
44grams us-05 ale yeast

og 1.086
12 gallons

I am going to do a run with the PSII and do it as a pot. This will be
the first time I am using the PSII as a pot.

Can you give me some advice.. i.e do you run with packing in (if so
how much) how do you make your cuts, how many times do you runs these
though?...etc
I am a multi-award winning brewer so my processes are sound.

Thanks!

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rabeb25" <rabeb25@> wrote:
> >
> > So, I made up a malt rye brew
> > 51% malted rye
> > 28% 2 row barley
> > 20% brewers grade corn syrup
> > 44grams us-05 ale yeast
> >
> > og 1.086  Gravity is a little high for a whiskey but it will be OK.
> Shoot for 1.060.
> > 12 gallons
> >
> > I am going to do a run with the PSII and do it as a pot. This will be
> > the first time I am using the PSII as a pot.
> >
> > Can you give me some advice.. i.e do you run with packing in (if so
> > how much) how do you make your cuts, how many times do you runs these
> > though?...etc
> Run it without packing and no reflux.  As you say this is your first
> time pot stillin I would triple distill.  First run strip to 212F,
> second run take it to 203F third run make cuts as so:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/message/33810
> Jim this question comes up alot lately.  Can you post this link in the
> data base for easy finding
> until I can get a decent Pdf written on the subject.
> > I am a multi-award winning brewer so my processes are sound.
> Glad to have you along for the ride in this wonderful hobby, BUT,
> Prepare to be humbled.
> >
> > Thanks!
>
>
> Mason
Thansk for the reply!

Oh for sure, I am prepared, its just nice to have a background on
making the liquor to distill :) So at least I can get that out of the
way when troubleshooting.

I just kind of came up with the recipe on the fly, how does it compare
to things?

I have refluxed before a few timess, but just sugar washes. so this
should be a new learning experience!


>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:

> Jim this question comes up alot lately.  Can you post this link in the
> data base for easy finding
> until I can get a decent Pdf written on the subject.
>
> Mason
>


Maybe it's time the mods collated & updated, augmented (IOW overhauled)
the FAQ.  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/files/F.A.Q.

I'd do it but as you know I'm busier than a dog with two tails right
now.


Slainte!
regards Harry

Yes, but have to think about the best way - also have a few questions on Harry's new idea in the PMs - give me a bit of thinking time .  Been a few years since I've been out of IT management.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo. 

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" rye_junkie@
> wrote:
>
> > Jim this question comes up alot lately. Can you post this link in the
> > data base for easy finding
> > until I can get a decent Pdf written on the subject.
> >
> > Mason
> >
>
>
> Maybe it's time the mods collated & updated, augmented (IOW overhauled)
> the FAQ. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/files/F.A.Q.
>
> I'd do it but as you know I'm busier than a dog with two tails right
> now.
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>

On a sidenote Mason and Harry,

The Info base has the capability for all Mods (in addition to myself) to update and add entries.  I originally had it planned for anyone to add entries - but got worried beacuse of certain people (you know who...)...

I've been keeping every new entry or edit in both the Links file and the Database file - still doing some thinking here hehe.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

"rye_junkie1" rye_junkie@  wrote:

Jim this question comes up alot lately. Can you post this link in the data base for easy finding until I can get a decent Pdf written on the subject.

Mason

In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" gnikomson2000@  wrote:

Maybe it's time the mods collated & updated, augmented (IOW
overhauled)  the FAQ.    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/files/F.A.Q.

I'd do it but as you know I'm busier than a dog with two tails right
now.

 Slainte!
regards Harry

How many times can the copper mesh be used in the column for reflux ?

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "ttuckey" <ttuckey@...> wrote:
>
> How many times can the copper mesh be used in the column for reflux ?
>


At the Hobby level with proper care it should last a life time.
I never unroll it.  As some of the pieces/rolls start to darken in
color I will soak them in a hot water / citric acid solution.  This
brings them back looking new.  Some say it is not necessary and some
even say that clean shiny copper will cause problems such as blue
spirit. Never had a problem(yet).

Mason

From: rye_junkie1

To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 9:34 AM

Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Condenser X-flow 0r coil?

All of this was mainly for Doug if he decides to build. Doug, also see:
http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/BAPHS/index.htm
This is Harry's E book on the head. Page 13 is pretty important.
However i was unable to get it to print to scale so I drew it out in
Rhino(http://download.rhino3d.com/eval/?p=25) and was able to print to
scale that way. Unless you have a CNC mill this is by far the easiest
way to go.
Also see:
http://tinyurl.com/8c3xfa
Marc has a lot of good pics here documenting his X-flow build.
He went longer on His where as I stayed within a 1/4" on Harrys 1/4"
tube length spec.
Also see thread starting:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/message/32819

Mason
Those of you who download that Rhino eval will find it quite
a fun program to play with. And if you can pull off the student
cred very cheap as well.

----- Original Message -----

From: balibootleg

To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 9:26 PM

Subject: [new_distillers] Spirit Run Results

well have just finished the spirit run on ujsm and the results are good.
I started with a volume of 18 ltr of low wines (39%abv) it produced
the following results with no feints added.
4ltrs of heads from 87%abv down to my cut at 81% abv for my Middle Run
as follows in collection bottles nums 1to 7
no1)500mls =81%abv
no2)500mls =80% abv
no3)500mls=79%abv
no4)500mls =76% abv
no5)500mls=73% abv
no6)500mls =71%abv
no7) 250mls =67% abv (this spirit sample had a distinct taste change
and i think it was the start of the tails ) unpleasant to say the least .
tails collected 2.5ltr ,finished the run with a still head temp of 95 c.
Collections num 2,3,4 are good
collection no 1 is a little sharp but still good and i think next time
i would keep more at this 81% abv as I discarded about 500mls to my
feints bottle maybe a mistake ????
Collections num 5 & 6 are ok ,they have more flavor and aim undecided
if i like it or not
collection no 7 had a really of taste so i am presuming thats, the
tails starting.
Over all ,collections from num 1 to 6 are good and am thinking about
mixing all together and then cutting it ,what would be your options on
this ????
Do these collections sound about right ???
And is it ok to keep the distillate around 81 to 82 %abv for drinking
??? The taste seems ok.
Id Like to thank all of you that have given me advice from start to
finish ,am sure i would not have gotten this far with out your help
guys ,Thanks heaps.
Ill be haven a drink tonight for sure :D
Regards Bali
PS . Ive started adding 100% backset now to the ujsm wash and its
going great with no PH adjustment 4 to 5 days fermentation time .Ill
let you know how that progresses , ive got 40 liters of wash to do
tomorrow and then a spirit run on that which ill add the feints to
from this last run .WOW its now getting exciting .

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Zapata Vive" <zapatavive@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Congrats!  Sounds good to me!  Definitely dilute it, my mouth goes
numb if I even just taste a few drops of 75%.

>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: balibootleg
>   To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 9:26 PM
>   Subject: [new_distillers] Spirit Run Results


And is it ok to keep the distillate around 81 to 82 %abv for drinking
??? The taste seems ok.

I think what Bali is asking here is would it be Ok to blend this
Higher ABV "heads cut" alcohol in with his middle cut for drinking
spirit.  The answer is,
Yes.  It is perfectly fine to do so.  The 80% "cut" is just a
guideline.  If you were to triple distill your product it would likely
run for the majority of the run above 80%.  As you do more and more
runs you will find that your nose tells you more about when to make
the cut.  The alcoholmeter may read 85% or 78% when you notice the
fruity smell of the heads start to dissipate.  You are the master
distiller.  Play with it.  At worst you'll have to back off an oz to
keep the morning headache at bay.  Remember that the bulk of the
flavor cogeners are in the Heads.  The absolute worse thing that could
happen is you mess it up and have to redistill the batch.  Maybe not a
bad thing though.  You may find yourself asking why would i drink XX
booze when for a little extra work on a triple I have something I
really like.  Take cost out of the equation (for the most part) and
you will find it frees/opens up the mind.

Mason

Can you recommend a good 1/4” needle valve for a still?
I am presently looking at 2 types:
A brass, inexpensive valve ($4.60) from Grainger:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6MM66
and a stainless steel Parker valve: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RAZ4
The expensive SS one has Teflon stem packing (PCTFE).  Is that OK with alcohol? 
Any problems with the cheap, brass one?
An earlier post recommended a brass stopcockvalve from  McMaster-Carr.com  (#
5049K4) but I want one that is not right angle and has a compression fitting at
each end.
Thanks,
Bill

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "billfitz49" <billfitz@...> wrote:
>
> Can you recommend a good 1/4” needle valve for a still?
> I am presently looking at 2 types:
> A brass, inexpensive valve ($4.60) from Grainger:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6MM66
> and a stainless steel Parker valve:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RAZ4
> The expensive SS one has Teflon stem packing (PCTFE).  Is that OK with
alcohol?  Any problems with the cheap, brass one?
> An earlier post recommended a brass stopcockvalve from  McMaster-Carr.com  (#
5049K4) but I want one that is not right angle and has a compression fitting at
each end.
> Thanks,
> Bill
>

I've been using the brass one for a year now.  Never had a problem.  When I
built my X flow head I installed one of these in 3/8" size on the LM take off. 
If your worried about the packing in the Brass one, its easy enough to just
remove it and wrap the upper stem/threads with teflon tape.  I also went with
brass on the gate valve for the VM side.  87 buck for a dippy SS valve is
robbery.

Mason