Welp,

Ya you can try it on spin cycle, but if one of them jugs breaks I'd be a bit hesitent to use it again for your colored wash .  A 5 gallon paint bag put into a plastic bucket with holes punched in the bottom that drains into a collection thing might work just as well and save a few bucks in the long run...

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "goodneighbor69" <goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
>
> is there a way to centrifuge a wash to clear it? im thinking spin cycle
> of a washing machine with the drum modified to hold jugs.
>

Hey Rob,

Sorry if I was a bit abrupt in my reply without explaining futher - still getting over some New Year's Partying.  Didn't mean to cause any heart burn, but still think these links concerning mutated yeasts strains trying to  produce enzymes could be better discussed in the Alcohol Fuel group or Advanced Distillers.

Being a simple "traditional" type distiller, i dont think that corn starch is what we are trying to convert into a nice drinking whiskey or yeast assumable sugars.  My concept of using corn or corn meal or corn flakes is not for extracting dextrose (glucose), sucrose or fructose in a mash - but getting that nice corn flavor out along with the malt tones that come with using malted barley or LME/DME.

Corn starch is nothing but starch from the heart of the corn  - from the endosperm, or white heart, of the corn kernel.  This is basically flavorless and is one of the reasons it it used as a thickening agent in cooking:

"Cornstarch is often used as a binder in puddings and similar foods. Most of the packaged pudding mixes available in grocery stores include cornstarch. Cornstarch puddings can be made at home easily by using a double boiler. The most basic such pudding is made from milk, sugar, cornstarch and a flavoring agent.

Cornstarch can be used as a thickener in many recipes. Because cornstarch tends to form lumps when mixed with warm or hot water, it is best dissolved in cold water. It is also found in many gluten-free recipes."

If all one was trying to do is use enzymes (from experimental yeast strains or malt) to convert corn starch to simple sugars and wasting time mashing it - try using dextrose or inverting sucrose and make a simple sugar wash. 

Thinks I'll just stick with my corn meal, cracked corn or flaked maize.  Again my appologies.

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Macrobert" <macrobert@...> wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Responses inline....
>
>
>
> Dude:
>
> First off, I have no idea why you would post these links in the
> New_Distillers site...
>
> --In response to a member's post about fermenting using corn starch, just
> trying to show that info is out there--
>
> Your second link also has little to do with making human consumable
> ethanol, since your again talking about a strain of yeast
> (Saccharomycopsis fibuligera) that is used for sientific research.
>
> -- My apologies on that, as I was not aware of it--
>
> I dont think too many members here understand the phrase
> "respiration-deficient reccombiant Saccharomycese cerevisiae" but thank
> you for the info and try taking it to our friends at Alcohol Fuel:
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/alcoholfuel/ since these discussions
> have very little to do with making some nice smooth drinkin' hootch .
>
> -- Which is why I said "If you can understand the results.." and
> "..Hopefully, the more knowledgeable ones here can translate these
> results into practical answers.."--
>
> ---Snip--
>
> Like others here, I've been wondering about this myself, but in my case
> it came down to thinking that since the starches in the corn are what we
> want to convert, using corn starch with AG for the conversion would be a
> little less work than using cracked corn. Practical? Didn't know, but
> based on Harry's response (THANK YOU HARRY!!) I'd have to say no.
>
> My apologies on not saying originally what the post was about, and no
> problem on finding the info, I was just trying to give back alittle of
> the help I've gotten here.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Robbie Mac
> Sometime tinkerer and sometimes it even works....
>
> --
> Be Yourself @ mail.com!
> Choose From 200+ Email Addresses
> Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
>

Does anyone have anything to say, good or bad, about the EZ Strainer?

http://www.thecarycompany.com/containers/ez-strainers.html

Devilsbox

> Welp,
>
> Ya you can try it on spin cycle, but if one of them jugs breaks I'd
be a
> bit hesitent to use it again for your colored wash  [;)] .  A 5 gallon
> paint bag put into a plastic bucket with holes punched in the bottom
> that drains into a collection thing might work just as well and save a
> few bucks in the long run...
>
> Vino es Veritas,
>
> Jim aka Waldo.

Feliz aņo nuevo a todos!
(happy new year everyone)

Hey Jim as you stated:

"My concept of using corn or corn meal or corn flakes is not for
extracting dextrose (glucose), sucrose or fructose in a mash - but
getting that nice corn flavor out along with the malt tones that come
with using malted barley or LME/DME."

Comes to me the idea of doing a UJSSM with white sugar (not dextrose)
and adding some DME, but first Iīd like to know: does the traditional
UJSSM flavor (cracked corn + sugar and a neutral yeast, i.e.
distillerīs or EC-1118) really resembles a real whisky (or bourbon)
flavor? does it worth?

Alex

Sidenote:

UJ does not mention the addition of nutrients in this kind of wash; are
the nutrients contained in the corn enough to support the yeast or will
it be advisable to add some, or maybe the addition of it leads to off
flavors?

Alex

ive looked around and see that aquarium supplies stores sell down to
100 micron filter bags for under 10$ us . i think ill try one.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "goodneighbor69"
<goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
>
>  ive looked around and see that aquarium supplies stores sell down to
> 100 micron filter bags for under 10$ us . i think ill try one.
>
  Don't waste your time or money.  They're great for straining, not so
much for clearing wash

You cannot beat simply waiting for it to settle naturally.  Feel free
to add some clarifying agents (irish moss, bentonite, gelatine,
isinglass, whatever) but the addition of TIME is your best (and far
less expensive)  choice for clearing your wash.

Trid
-and this, coming from the consummate lover of gizmos and widgets

Clearing a wash is best done with time.  There are some expensive
filters and filter systems out there but for the Hobby distiller time
is your best friend.  I have been using Effervescent Irish Moss
tablets for a few months now with very good results.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/photos/album/1345793951/pic/2131294\
632/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
One of these dissolved in 6oz of hot water and poured in to a finished
ferment will cut a couple of days off the clearing time.  Even a turbo
wash.  Racking the wash into a carboy and Putting the wash in a cool
(below 60F colder the better)place helps as well.  If you are doing
grain washes, then anything with a pore size smaller than womens
stockings will clog so fast it will become useless after a few cups of
mash.  I have heard of people using pillow cases and maybe for
molasses or sugar washes they work but it will hold a grain mash back
for days.  Best I have found are those nylon paint strainer bags from
the H ware store.  A gallon of mash at a time and some gentle kneading
usually do the trick but it aint fast by any stretch.  Keep in mind
that a wash does not have to be perfectly clear although in my opinion
the clearer the better.  Lately I have been adding the Irish moss to
the feremnter and letting it settle for a couple of days then racking
directly to the boiler.  I haven't noticed any differences in flavor
of the final product.  Sometimes I have to let a wash sit for a week
or more though and at that point it gets racked to a carboy with a
airlock plugged into it.  Even then, after a few hours there will be a
noticeable size yeast cake formed on the bottom.

Mason

Hello Trid,
  And thanks for your reply,,
  Indeed I will give it a shot and post my results as well,
  I too was thinking kinda on your same line but hoped that someone
had already tried it,,
  On the flop side I may have to go with your style. I was planning on
using powder enzymes since I have 2 pounds of each.. Alpha and
Glucos..
   But After reading your reply there I am thinking maybe I should use
malt Just for the flavor aspect,,
  either way though I will let you know what I come up with if you do
the same,

  THanks very much And have a wonderfull day,,
NoNameDistiller..


> While I don't have the answer to this question, I really like it.
> I've actually considered the potential, but never put it to the
test.
>
> So, here's what I suggest (and I think I'm going to give it a whirl
> soon, too):  Make a combination mash of barley malt (6 row if you
can
> get it, but 2 row will do the trick) and your starch.  Now this is
> just an off-the-top-of-my-head starting point.  Dissolve one pound
of
> starch in cold water (cold is important)-maybe 2 gallons- and then
> heat up your starch water like you're heating water for mashing your
> barley.  When you reach your desired strike temp (say 165-ish) add
two
> pounds of malt.  Mash it like you do all-grain (sparging isn't
> necessary if you're wanting to ferment on the grain) and ultimately,
> test the gravity of some clarified wort to see what you've got.  You
> can also follow up with the iodine test to see if you have full
> conversion.
>
> No, it's not too fine to work, it's just a matter of being able to
get
> it completely dissolved in the water...that's why adding it to cold
> water first is important.  Starch by itself doesn't dissolve in hot
> water, it just lumps up.  If you get a nearly full conversion of the
> powdered starch, it simply becomes sugar and is dissolved in the
water
> and you could feasibly sparge it clear from your grain husks.
> However, the possibility of some going unconverted and coming
through
> into your wort is one reason it's not practical for beer brewing.
> Another handy bit - if you're fermenting on the grain, you just let
it
> cool naturally and the enzymes from the malt keep on working.
>
> Give it a shot, and when I get a chance to do the same, I'll toss my
> results out there for feedback as well.
>
> Happy starching :)
>
> Trid
>

ok, ill ask the obvious .. where do i find  Effervescent Irish Moss ?

and i think there must be a way to filter a wash. you can filter water
out of fuel with a small enough micron filter. these micron bag
filters keep aquariums crystal clear im sure they could clean a
wash.thay come all the way up to 55 gal. in size.   im going to try
both ways. ill let you know how it comes out.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "goodneighbor69"
<goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
>
>  ok, ill ask the obvious .. where do i find  Effervescent Irish Moss ?
>
> and i think there must be a way to filter a wash. you can filter water
> out of fuel with a small enough micron filter. these micron bag
> filters keep aquariums crystal clear im sure they could clean a
> wash.thay come all the way up to 55 gal. in size.   im going to try
> both ways. ill let you know how it comes out.
>

These are what I use but I get them at my LHBS.
http://www.homebrewit.com/aisle/p/CB7170A

Let us know how your quest for a filter goes.  I will stick with
time though.  I seem to have plenty of it as the reflux run I am doing
started some 30 hours ago and looks to have at least 3 more to go.

Mason

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "goodneighbor69"
> <goodneighbor69@> wrote:
> >
> >  ok, ill ask the obvious .. where do i find  Effervescent Irish Moss ?
> >
> > and i think there must be a way to filter a wash. you can filter water
> > out of fuel with a small enough micron filter. these micron bag
> > filters keep aquariums crystal clear im sure they could clean a
> > wash.thay come all the way up to 55 gal. in size.   im going to try
> > both ways. ill let you know how it comes out.
> >
>
> These are what I use but I get them at my LHBS.
> http://www.homebrewit.com/aisle/p/CB7170A
>
> Let us know how your quest for a filter goes.  I will stick with
> time though.  I seem to have plenty of it as the reflux run I am doing
> started some 30 hours ago and looks to have at least 3 more to go.
>
> Mason


To add to my comments,  Before I started using Irish Moss to aid
clearing,  I would simply cool the wash best I could.  In the winter
its easy,  I just took the carboy or fermenter out to my uninsulated
Shop.  If I knew it would get into the 30's I would set the carboy
outside the shop on Saw horses covered with a sheet.  Looked like I
was just covering a plant to keep it from frost bite.  Next day when I
got home from work it was usually settles out nicely.  In the summer
its a little tougher but I found if I set the carboy on the AC floor
vent it speeds up the process pretty good.  I am looking for a cheap
refrigerator that would hold a carboy.  One will show up soon in one
of the local swap papers.  I also saw a pretty cool idea on some guys
website for beer fermenting.  He had built a insulated plywood closet
in his garage.  It had a small space heater mounted in the bottom to
control the higher temps and a small AC window unit for the lagering
phase.  The Dude was really into his brewing.

Mason

this go around ill do the Irish moss and cold storage. im from new
england and can do cold storage right now lol.

Hi Alex and a Very Happy New Years to you also,

Your questions bring up some interesting points.  I really cannot consider my concoctions as true whiskey or even "real" Bourbon (Thou shall not use that name in Vain :):) being America's National alcoholic beverage by an act of Congress (congress = opposite of progress).

The commercial Bourbon makers here are governed by strict laws which state that no additives other then grains and yeast may be used, then mashed with no sugar added - 55% of which must be corn, with the rest being barley malts, rye or wheat depending on the distiller.  After distillation, nothing may be done to it either, exept put in new 55 gallon American Oak charred kegs and aged for a minimum of 2 years (Tennessee Whisk(e)y may be put thru the Lincoln County process though).  The same holds true - no added sugars - for Irish and Scotch makers in the old Country.

Since us Nano-distillers may bend, be above, below or side step laws (otherwise I wouldn't be posting here), many including myself do not abide by the no sugars added law.  The reason Dave - Uncle Jesse calls his a "Simple Sour Mash" method is because there is no cooking or mashing required since sugar is added.

Now i have done some mashing with diastatic malts in my corn whiskeys, but for the small amount of sugars converted in a mash (about 7-8%), this does not give a very good yield for us small scale distillers.  Now at the risk of being labelled a heritic by the purist all grain distillers around here, I basically now just use grains and malt (usually from LME)  for flavors and dont go through the mashing process.  Instead, i use inverted sugar to bring the mash ABV up to about a 12 - 14% with little loss of the corn/malt flavors in my pot still.  Nor do I worry too much about aging my "white dawg".  As the song goes - the good ol' boys around here still drink their whiskey white .   As Gooseeye also stated in one of his inimitable postings:

"if you blendin for taste after strong backin taste save
when clears an take likker down with that adds a wee little bit it
stretchs volume an flaver. ole boys i no aint much on corns but if
they chargein it you can bet they got a sack of suger in it."
Translation: take some feints and add back to stretch the volume and flavors - the ol' boys dont add much corn but increase the ABV by adding sugars.

Also, yes i do add nutrients in addition to following the UJSSM method such as DAP or Miracle-Gro along with some boiled trub.  While malt and corn do have some nutrients, it still does not hurt to add some more nitrogen and nutrients for a nice fast ferment.

But to answer your final question - yes my white dawg likker passes very well (and following Dave's UJSSM) amoung the good 0l' boys down here and if aged for a while, it would make a nice tasting Bourbon.....

Vino es Veritas,

Jim aka Waldo.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "castillo.alex2008" <castillo.alex2008@...> wrote:
>
>
> Sidenote:
>
> UJ does not mention the addition of nutrients in this kind of wash; are
> the nutrients contained in the corn enough to support the yeast or will
> it be advisable to add some, or maybe the addition of it leads to off
> flavors?
>
> Alex

Feliz aņo nuevo a todos!
(happy new year everyone)

Hey Jim as you stated:

"My concept of using corn or corn meal or corn flakes is not for
extracting dextrose (glucose), sucrose or fructose in a mash - but
getting that nice corn flavor out along with the malt tones that come
with using malted barley or LME/DME."

Comes to me the idea of doing a UJSSM with white sugar (not dextrose)
and adding some DME, but first Iīd like to know: does the traditional
UJSSM flavor (cracked corn + sugar and a neutral yeast, i.e.
distillerīs or EC-1118) really resembles a real whisky (or bourbon)
flavor? does it worth?

Alex

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Trid" <triddlywinks@> wrote:
> >
one as well.  However I will be using enzyme
> powder in place of malt.  Will use normal mashing method though.
The
> stuff is pretty cheap so that makes it easier to play with.
>
> Mason
>

Yes sir,,
  I  saw that one as well,..
It was pretty cool.  Sure would have like to have that Batch after
they were done with it, Could have added a few bricks of enzymes and
went to town,/
     Umm.. while I have you here Mason, I've seen that your pretty
skilled your self,   So could you maybe give me an estimated guess of
how much water to start out with per lets say 2 pounds,
    I almost started mine a few minutes ago, But I can't decide what
to start out with,   I don't want to over dilute the mash,
   But with that show in mind,  Wouldn't I want to have a stiff mash
like that to start, Then add Malt or enzymes,   then after that It
should thin out a bit if I am thinking correctly..     anyways Sorry
to be a pest,  this one is a new one one myself, And I'm not wanting
to screw it up the first time around,  Even though I know that's what
its all about.  But as soon as I get up the nerve it will be done.
And I'll post my results,     (Really My hold up is, I am not sure
how much room it will consume, Can't decide weather to break out the
big 15 gallon pot. Or if I can use my 20 quart pot, I know 2 pounds
of starch isn't going to grow to fill the 15 gallons, But I for sure
don't want to get kicked out of my kitchen by the wife for over
boiling in the smaller one, LOL    either way, We will get it done
somehow, Thanks for all you guy's help on this one, I thought for
sure I was going to get the ol Dram award for this topic.
NoName

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
<jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Mason,
>
> Just remeber that corn starch, while it should be mixed with cold
water,
> is mostly used for a food thickener - especially in chinese cooking
(one
> of my favorites) and also for puddings, etc...
>
> The minute you start heating it up, expect a nice thick mush LoL.  I
> would just stick with your regular corn meal and such...
>
> (note: also remember who we are talking too  [;)]  [:D]  [:)]
[:x] )
>
> Vino es Veritas,
>
> Jim aka Waldo *the lost one"
>

Thanks You too Jim,
  I didn't catch this post/reply before repling back to masons post.
with that said, Mason I suppose I am good and don't need any
measurements,  By the looks of it Corn starch isn't going to be a
good source of sugars. But rather a tasty pudding,LOL  any how Thanks
for all the information you guys Gave.
      NoName
(am I out of place or a drag to the group. If so kindly ask and I
will resign,) (Not sure if that last comment was for me, but if it
was,then I am not trying to intrude anymore than I have,)

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nonamedistiller"
<nonamedistiller@...> wrote:

>     Umm.. while I have you here Mason, I've seen that your pretty
> skilled your self,   So could you maybe give me an estimated guess of
> how much water to start out with per lets say 2 pounds,
>    I almost started mine a few minutes ago, But I can't decide what
> to start out with,   I don't want to over dilute the mash,
>   But with that show in mind,  Wouldn't I want to have a stiff mash
> like that to start, Then add Malt or enzymes,   then after that It
> should thin out a bit if I am thinking correctly..     anyways Sorry
> to be a pest,  this one is a new one one myself, And I'm not wanting
> to screw it up the first time around,  Even though I know that's what
> its all about.
> NoName
>

No golden Dram from me.  This one is interesting to me as well but as
for your question of where to start, I dont have a real good idea
myself.  For me though,  I picked up a pound today and will try it
tomorrow.  I will start with that to 2 gallons of water and go from
there.  If the SG is too high I will add more water.  Too low and I
would need to add more corn starch.  Either way I have an answer to
post.  As you say,  "thats what its all about".

Mason
Either that or the Hokey Pokey.
Reflux run Over 35 hours.  Yeah,  thats a long time.

Hey Jim,

Thanks for your reply.

Now some 7 pounds of cracked corn, 10 pounds of white sugar, some
nutrients and a good yeast strain sounds like a plan to follow to me.
Letīs give a chance to that Danstil 493 or even better to my last
sachet of Prestigeīs WD with AG "for oldtimesī sake" as Humphrey Bogart
said.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "goodneighbor69"
<goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
>
> is there a way to centrifuge a wash to clear it? im thinking spin
cycle
> of a washing machine with the drum modified to hold jugs.
>


Hi goodneighbor69, The cheapest and most efective centrifuge thats
available is the spinning bowl type from simple centrifuge dot com.

http://tinyurl.com/simplecentrifuge

I've already spoke to them about filtering yeast from a wash / wort
and filtering molasses.  They say they have already sold units to
beer makers to remove the yeast.  For molasses, they said either heat
it up like how they do it for WVO, (wast vegi oil), or dilute it
before putting it though the centrifuge.  They say it will filtre any
liquid down to 1 micron?

Using time, chilling or finnings for settling the wash / wort is the
cheapest way as other members have already said.

Cheers
Marc

btw, I'm only a fan of this centrifuge product, I wish I had one!

OK, maybe a stupid question, but here goes anyway.  I made a wash or
mash or must today, whichever you want to call it.  In it are about 70
pounds of apples (mashed thoroughly), 30 pounds of sugar, quart of
blackstrap molasses (all natural), and probably 18-20 gallons of
water.  Well not actually water, I used about 12-14 gallons of water
and 6 gallons of left over "dander" I guess you call it from my last
batch.  This arrived at about 32-35 gallons of total wash.  Anyway,
question is, I just checked the wash with my hydrometer.  It has a SG
of around 1.050.  Meaning I am only going to arrive at about 7% of so
alcohol.  Surely I am doing something wrong here.  I know temp has
some bearing on measurements and the wash is still fairly warm.
Should I wait and take another reading tomorrow or should I go ahead
and plan on getting some more sugar in the wash?  Or is it possible
the sugar content in the mashed apples is not taken into account in
the reading?  Thanks in advance!!

its me again

sorry guys to cut your hot debate but im in the middle of buying my
first still
my mind was made up on that reflux and pot set alembic still
now the seller is advising instead to buy the bain maree version .
he says that using mostly fruit mash is beter to use bain mareee in
order to minimise the burning of the mash particles or part of the
fruits in the pot.
any body to help make up my mind
i realy would like to have the set though pot and reflux never thought
of the bain maree
but what is beter wins the day

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "John" <cls315@...> wrote:
>
> OK, maybe a stupid question, but here goes anyway.  I made a wash or
> mash or must today, whichever you want to call it.  In it are about 70
> pounds of apples (mashed thoroughly), 30 pounds of sugar, quart of
> blackstrap molasses (all natural), and probably 18-20 gallons of
> water.  Well not actually water, I used about 12-14 gallons of water
> and 6 gallons of left over "dander" I guess you call it from my last
> batch.  This arrived at about 32-35 gallons of total wash.  Anyway,
> question is, I just checked the wash with my hydrometer.  It has a SG
> of around 1.050.  Meaning I am only going to arrive at about 7% of so
> alcohol.  Surely I am doing something wrong here.  I know temp has
> some bearing on measurements and the wash is still fairly warm.
> Should I wait and take another reading tomorrow or should I go ahead
> and plan on getting some more sugar in the wash?  Or is it possible
> the sugar content in the mashed apples is not taken into account in
> the reading?  Thanks in advance!!

Nope, you're about on the money with the hydrometer reading.  In this
hobby, sugar is sugar, whether it's cane, fruit, or what have you.
All told, you have about 1 1/2 pounds of sugar per gallon of liquid.
In the total volume you have, one quart of molasses isn't going to add
a noticeable amount.  By doing the math, it looks as if your apples
add another 10ish gallons to the total volume.  Apples aren't really
that high in sugar if you're talking pulp and all.  1.050 sounds like
a perfectly reasonable gravity reading.

Also, for the sake of terminology, "mash" refers to step (and
ingredients) where the starches from grain is being converted to
fermentable sugars. After mashing, typically, we'll use "wort" if it's
going to be used for beer and "wash" if its ultimate destination is
the still. "Must" would be exclusively from fruit.  The catch-all for
all the rest would also fall into "wash."

Finally, just my own $.02:  Why waste the apples in a sugar/molasses
wash?  Why not make cider or at least a wash for making a nice apple
brandy with the apples and use the sugar and molasses for either rum
or a neutral spirit.  This is just me talking, but I can't see wasting
the flavor of the apples on neutral spirit...unless I totally botched
the apple spirit.

Irrespective of my own opinion, my input is that your numbers do come
out to a reasonable value.  Stick with what you have instead of adding
more sugar to boost the %abv in your wash.  You'll be done fermenting
sooner and off to making your hooch in short order if you don't try to
max out.  Less opportunity for the yeasties to get stressed and make
funky flavors or get stuck, too.

Happy stillin'
Trid

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bravoseychelles"
<bravoseychelles@...> wrote:
>
> its me again
>
> sorry guys to cut your hot debate but im in the middle of buying my
> first still
> my mind was made up on that reflux and pot set alembic still
> now the seller is advising instead to buy the bain maree version .
> he says that using mostly fruit mash is beter to use bain mareee in
> order to minimise the burning of the mash particles or part of the
> fruits in the pot.
> any body to help make up my mind
> i realy would like to have the set though pot and reflux never
thought
> of the bain maree
> but what is beter wins the day

aint sure what a bain maree is. is it a double boiler. some fruit
float an some sit if you chargein plumins so it mite be better if you
can cause you aint gonna be able to charge apple plumins without
scorchin. why aint you usein just juice. work it off then squeze.
what fruit yall usein. press aint got to be fancy could be a bucket
in an bucket with holes in the bottom an fill the top one with wet
sand/rocks for weight.

so im tole
>

Hey Parrot

The gravity is ok, but Iīd be much more concern about the nutrients,
seems to be ok in the minerals side (b/c of the molasses) but will
ferment faster if adding some source of nitrogen, to which I suggest
you to add about 2 cups of DAP or any other complete yeast nutrient you
may have handy.  Also is important the amount of yeast used, some 100
grams of distillerīs or bakerīs will be ok.  Finally, since you are
only after the appleīs flavor you may consider adding some pectinase to
your wash, a few of those brewhaus sachets containing the 3 enzymes
will go fine and youīll receive them about on time, if you began
yesterday and live in US.

Alex

P.D.  try next time to go after a calvados, wouldnīt be a waste of
fruit as now IMHO

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "John Chad Kinsey Sr."
<cls315@...> wrote:
>
> Well, I have not pitched the yeast yet and I do have yeast
nutrients I plan
> on using.  I was hoping for a little higher potential alcohol.  Is
there a
> scale somewhere or a formula to arrive at sugar percentage?  The
molasses
> was added for the minerals only, not for sugar or flavor.  I also
have added
> pectinase already.  I am thinking very seriously of adding some
more sugar.
> I wanted to arrive at about a 14% to 15% ABV.  And yes I have
champagne
> yeast which will handle it, six packets of it in fact, along with a
pound of
> yeast nutrients.  Thanks!

hier in likker you go the more it gonna want to warsh out the apple
sent an flaver an hotter it gonna get. thats in the middlein to hi
teens even cookin slow. if you invert your suger you can hold that
apple longer but only so much.you can get apple flaverin with
gylcerin to help take down that likker with but a ole likker dick
aint gonna be fooled an it hard to get a good name back.


so im tole
>
>
>
> No trees were harmed to send this message however an awful lot of
electrons
> were terribly inconvenienced.
>
>
>
>
>
> From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of castillo.alex2008
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 9:15 AM
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Conversion type question
>
>
>
>
> Hey Parrot
>
> The gravity is ok, but Iīd be much more concern about the
nutrients,
> seems to be ok in the minerals side (b/c of the molasses) but will
> ferment faster if adding some source of nitrogen, to which I
suggest
> you to add about 2 cups of DAP or any other complete yeast nutrient
you
> may have handy. Also is important the amount of yeast used, some
100
> grams of distillerīs or bakerīs will be ok. Finally, since you are
> only after the appleīs flavor you may consider adding some
pectinase to
> your wash, a few of those brewhaus sachets containing the 3 enzymes
> will go fine and youīll receive them about on time, if you began
> yesterday and live in US.
>
> Alex
>
> P.D. try next time to go after a calvados, wouldnīt be a waste of
> fruit as now IMHO
>
>
>
>
>
>
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