you might as well go
> out and buy a 5 lb. bag of yeast nutrients with DAP (9.95 at the
> brewing shop)

Hey jim thatīs cheap! where are you buying?!

Alex

Weekend Brewers in Richmond, VA -
http://www.weekendbrewer.com/beerwinechemicals.htm

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "castillo.alex2008"
<castillo.alex2008@...> wrote:
>
>
> you might as well go
> > out and buy a 5 lb. bag of yeast nutrients with DAP (9.95 at the
> > brewing shop)
>
> Hey jim thatīs cheap! where are you buying?!
>
> Alex
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
<jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Weekend Brewers in Richmond, VA -
> http://www.weekendbrewer.com/beerwinechemicals.htm
>
> Vino es Veritas,
> Jim.
>

WOW you guys have got is really good. Nice equiptment!

Hey Jim, excellent place for buying the yeast nutrients, very
affordable Iīm calling this people by monday (or maybe tomorrow, LOL)
itīs a real shame I woudnīt know about them before! I also see they
have the amylase enzyme and the pectic enzyme, which are used to
convert grain starch into fermentable sugars.  I know that first you
have to gelatinize the mashed grain, boiling it during some time
(which?) at a given temp. (60-70C) (How do you achive that only using
your stove?)What I donīt know is if you have to use one first
(which?) and later other and at what temp.  I also wonder if boiling
the mashed grain with some citric acid (kinda large?) will do the
same and later you just adjust the PH with baking soda to 5,cool the
mash, add the nutrients and pitch the yeast.

As always, your comments are... well I think that by now you are
aware of that cliche!LOL

Thanks,

Alex

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
<jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Weekend Brewers in Richmond, VA -
> http://www.weekendbrewer.com/beerwinechemicals.htm
>
> Vino es Veritas,
> Jim.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "castillo.alex2008"
> <castillo.alex2008@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > you might as well go
> > > out and buy a 5 lb. bag of yeast nutrients with DAP (9.95 at
the
> > > brewing shop)
> >
> > Hey jim thatīs cheap! where are you buying?!
> >
> > Alex
> >
>

Hey Jim,
Regarding your earlier post that mentioned Vegemite.
I have seen in many grocery stores a brand called Marmite.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmite
It too is expensive by some standards but I thought folks might be
interested in a US source for a possibly similar produce.  I will let
harry and the guys weigh in on if it is comparable or not.  I have
seen it in Publix and a few other stores but not wally world.

Mason

hi
as anyone will to tell there are two kinds of people in the world..
those who love vegemite and those who love marmite.
i'm one of those who love vegemite.
slough


-----Original Message-----
From: rye_junkie1 <rye_junkie@...>
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 30 May 2008 3:44 pm
Subject: [new_distillers] Re: homemade yeast nutrients






Hey Jim,
Regarding your earlier post that mentioned Vegemite.
I have seen in many grocery stores a brand called Marmite.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmite
It too is expensive by some standards but I thought folks might be
interested in a US source for a possibly similar produce. I will let
harry and the guys weigh in on if it is comparable or not. I have
seen it in Publix and a few other stores but not wally world.

Mason

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, SLOUGHVIEW@... wrote:
>
> hi
> as anyone will to tell there are two kinds of people in the world..
> those who love vegemite and those who love marmite.
> i'm one of those who love vegemite.
> slough
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rye_junkie1 <rye_junkie@...>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Fri, 30 May 2008 3:44 pm
> Subject: [new_distillers] Re: homemade yeast nutrients
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hey Jim,
> Regarding your earlier post that mentioned Vegemite.
> I have seen in many grocery stores a brand called Marmite.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmite
> It too is expensive by some standards but I thought folks might be
> interested in a US source for a possibly similar produce. I will let
> harry and the guys weigh in on if it is comparable or not. I have
> seen it in Publix and a few other stores but not wally world.
>
> Mason



Hello there, Vegemite is a yeast extract and Marmite is a meat extract
perhaps only Vegemite would be suitable as a yeast nutrient
Cheers..tippler

Hello there, Vegemite is a yeast extract and Marmite is a meat extract
> perhaps only Vegemite would be suitable as a yeast nutrient
> Cheers..tippler
>

I am pretty sure that I read a recipe in the sugar wash section on
home distiller that had marmite in the mash bill.  Does not make it
right but pretty sure it was there.

Mason

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:
>
>  Hello there, Vegemite is a yeast extract and Marmite is a meat extract
> > perhaps only Vegemite would be suitable as a yeast nutrient
> > Cheers..tippler
> >
>
> I am pretty sure that I read a recipe in the sugar wash section on
> home distiller that had marmite in the mash bill.  Does not make it
> right but pretty sure it was there.
>
> Mason
>

Yep,  just checked.
Smudges recipe called for 100g in a 100 liter wash.

Mason

Hello, I put the burner under the pot today,just water,40L. 2.5Hours
later I still had only a heavy simmer there. Both jets full on (gas)or
propane as others call it. Seems I will have to have a shroud around
it and elevate the burner.There was a slight wind so the heat may have
been blown off to the sides.Mason this pot had a rubber seal between
the bolt down top plate and the pot itself. Could you direct me to
find where to get the info on how to make one of those silicon seals
and does that stuff handle hot steel at the top of the pot?. What
about thick cardboard? Would that do it? I learned the first of many
lessons today,do not put your ear close to the pot to hear if its
simmering.Its very tender hide on your ear!!!........Cheers....Tippler

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tippler106" <tippler106@...>
wrote:
>
>  Hello, I put the burner under the pot today,just water,40L. 2.5Hours
> later I still had only a heavy simmer there. Both jets full on (gas)or
> propane as others call it. Seems I will have to have a shroud around
> it and elevate the burner.There was a slight wind so the heat may have
> been blown off to the sides.Mason this pot had a rubber seal between
> the bolt down top plate and the pot itself.

Yes this is a good idea for sure, it will save you alot of gas and give
you better control when you need to simmer it softly for a few hours.

Could you direct me to
> find where to get the info on how to make one of those silicon seals
> and does that stuff handle hot steel at the top of the pot?.

If I understand correctly you can use kitchenor bathroom Silicone. you
put some vaseline on the side where you don't want it to stick apply
the silicone to the other and put them together for some time to cure.

I think this is something you would use if you have a rather large area
to fill. If you are talking about sealing a flange then prehaps a thin
slice of cork board is what you are looking for.


What
> about thick cardboard? Would that do it? I learned the first of many
> lessons today,do not put your ear close to the pot to hear if its
> simmering.Its very tender hide on your ear!!!........Cheers....Tippler
>

I have used 3mm thick insulation that I had left over from laying the
floor. It's silver on one side and the insulation is good enough that I
can stick my ear on the simmering pot. You really should find a way to
insulate the pot, this will save you alot of gas too.

Hi Tippler,

I also distill outside, but with electric.  One suggestion is not to use a shroud made of any fiberous material, otherwise you will have a "fire in the shroud" lol.  What I did was to mimic those propane fried turkey cookers that have a metal wind shield ring around them.

Just get a length of that roofing tin - the length depends on the circumference of your pot and burner, the height depends on going about 2/3rds to the height of your pot for insulation.

Make a circle with it, and get some small metal screws, tap them and screw it together, drill some small holes in the bottom for air intake, and a cutout for the propane hose - et Volia, a wind shield.

Regarding the silicon seal, there is no specific instructions in the Info base, but Harry set a posting about it:

"My views on silicone sealants is well known. I have personally used
the same seal on my boiler continually for 6 years without any
problem. Sherman I believe has done similar (think I saw a pic of
his somewhere).

However there are a couple of provisos...

1. Room Temp Vulcanizers (RTV's) are ok for boiler seals, but should
not be used above this level. IOW I don't recommend them where they
will contact high test alcohols or hot vapours. A better solution
for these (temp probe sealers, slip joint columns) is teflon tape
(plumber's thread tape, the white one).

2. Always use the correct type for your application.

For metals, use neutral cure silicone. I use Selleys Roof & Gutter
sealant, made for joins in metal guttering that carries rainwater for
drinking purposes (potable water).

The acetic cure types (smell like vinegar) used in fishtanks will
work, but because they are acid cure, they will corrode your metal
surfaces. On glass or ceramics (what they're meant for) they work
fine.

Nuetral cure silicones use alcohol as the active ingredient and are
used on Metal, painted surfaces, acrylics and "soft" plastics.

Acid cure silicone use acetic acid as the active ingredient and are
used on fired masonry such as tiles, porecelain, glass (except coated
or painted glass), Pvc class 2, timber or timber product and "hard
plastics".

Slainte!
regards Harry

To install it, you need to first apply it on your pot cover rim, then put vasoline on the pot rim (so it wont stick) and fit it.  Let dry and take the cover off.
Mark where the 2 fits meet for future reference.  Geoff gave an account of this:

"My answers are inline in your email
That is going to be useful, One question though

Have you done this
before,
Yes I've done this on my own milk churn boiler lid and it's
been on there for over 3 years now(it automatically gets cleaned and
sterilized every time I do a run)

and if so I just want to confirm that I will be putting the
Vaseline on both sides pot and lid,
No Jesse, only coat your pot/boiler rim with Vaseline, the
whole point of the Vaseline is to stop the aquarium silicon sealant
on the lid from sticking to the boiler/pot rim.

then after the stuff has dried,
then Take it apart very gently, and Now I have a Rubber that I can
take off and on when ever I want. correct...
No Jesse the rubber sealant stays stuck firmly to the lid this
way it stays unbroken. And with very little coaxing it does part
company from the pot/boiler and as I keep stressing with the silicon
staying stuck firmly to the lid all the time

Or does it stay with
the pot
No it stays stuck to the lid from this point on.

Other than that should I add some lube every time I heat it up.

Or do
I dry fit the lid when its time to make a run,

Yes correct Jesse you just dry fit the lid, when you have your
wash in there, being careful to line up your permanent marker pen
lines between the lid and pot then you know the rubber seal will line
up exactly the way it was made, don't forget the crocodile clips it
makes for a real air tight seal and for a good stable still
Geoff,"

Hope this helps.

Vino es Veritas,
Jim

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tippler106" <tippler106@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I put the burner under the pot today,just water,40L. 2.5Hours
> later I still had only a heavy simmer there. Both jets full on (gas)or
> propane as others call it. Seems I will have to have a shroud around
> it and elevate the burner.There was a slight wind so the heat may have
> been blown off to the sides.Mason this pot had a rubber seal between
> the bolt down top plate and the pot itself. Could you direct me to
> find where to get the info on how to make one of those silicon seals
> and does that stuff handle hot steel at the top of the pot?. What
> about thick cardboard? Would that do it? I learned the first of many
> lessons today,do not put your ear close to the pot to hear if its
> simmering.Its very tender hide on your ear!!!........Cheers....Tippler
>

Not quite right Tip,

Vegemite is made from pure yeast extract, while Marmite is made from
used Brewer's yeast after a fermentation.  Reason why some perfer one
over the other.

"Marmite (pronounced [/ˈmɑːmaɪt/]) is the name given to two
similar
food spreads, a British version produced in the United Kingdom and
South Africa and the other in New Zealand. Marmite is made from yeast
extract, a by-product of beer brewing, and is suitable for
vegetarians and vegans.

The British version of the product is a sticky, dark brown paste with
a distinctive, powerful flavour, which is extremely salty and savoury
with umami qualities, comparable to soy sauce. This distinctive taste
is reflected in the British company's marketing slogan: "Love it or
hate it." It is similar to the Australian Vegemite and Swiss Cenovis.
Bovril is a similar-looking spread made from beef extract.

The distinctive product was originally British, but a version with a
noticeably different taste has been manufactured in New Zealand since
1919, and this is the dominant version in New Zealand, Australia and
the Pacific Islands."

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.


Tippler Wrote:

> >  Hello there, Vegemite is a yeast extract and Marmite is a meat
extract
> > > perhaps only Vegemite would be suitable as a yeast nutrient
> > > Cheers..tippler

> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@>
> wrote:

> > I am pretty sure that I read a recipe in the sugar wash section on
> > home distiller that had marmite in the mash bill.  Does not make
it
> > right but pretty sure it was there.
> >
> > Mason
> >
>
> Yep,  just checked.
> Smudges recipe called for 100g in a 100 liter wash.
>
> Mason
>

Thanks Jim And Billy Turf, Great advise.I never considered cork board
or never thought of it. I have only 2-3 mm to take up so what better
gasket to use! I will slice some tin tomorrow and wrap it around the
pot to stop the wind. Unfortunately we have forecast really heavy rain
over the next 3 days so the next heat up may be delayed,but I can get
the malted corn into the fermenter and have the wash ready to go.
Thanks so much!. Cheers...........Tippler

I have jars of both the English Marmite and the Australian clone
Vegemite - both are yeast extracts. For distillers it would be cheaper
to use spent brewers yeast from health stores.
wal
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tippler106" <tippler106@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, SLOUGHVIEW@ wrote:
> >
> > hi
> > as anyone will to tell there are two kinds of people in the world..
> > those who love vegemite and those who love marmite.
> > i'm one of those who love vegemite.
> > slough
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rye_junkie1 <rye_junkie@>
> > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Fri, 30 May 2008 3:44 pm
> > Subject: [new_distillers] Re: homemade yeast nutrients
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hey Jim,
> > Regarding your earlier post that mentioned Vegemite.
> > I have seen in many grocery stores a brand called Marmite.
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmite
> > It too is expensive by some standards but I thought folks might be
> > interested in a US source for a possibly similar produce. I will let
> > harry and the guys weigh in on if it is comparable or not. I have
> > seen it in Publix and a few other stores but not wally world.
> >
> > Mason
>
>
>
> Hello there, Vegemite is a yeast extract and Marmite is a meat extract
> perhaps only Vegemite would be suitable as a yeast nutrient
> Cheers..tippler
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tippler106" <tippler106@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim And Billy Turf, Great advise.I never considered cork board
> or never thought of it. I have only 2-3 mm to take up so what better
> gasket to use! I will slice some tin tomorrow and wrap it around the
> pot to stop the wind. Unfortunately we have forecast really heavy rain
> over the next 3 days so the next heat up may be delayed,but I can get
> the malted corn into the fermenter and have the wash ready to go.
> Thanks so much!. Cheers...........Tippler
>

Gaskets can be made of cork. A skirt you need to make of something like
roofing tin. Soomething metal at least. I was out looking through scrap
yesterday at the metal dealer, there's always lots of great stuff up
there. an old round sink with the botom cut out would make for a nice
skirt.

For 2-3mm I think you will need to make a gasket of silicone or RTV. I
have got a gap about that big on mine too. right now it's got a big
rubber thingy on it, but it's not very good. I have some bathroom
sealent that I am goign to put on it instead sometime before my current
wash is done.

Hi,

The cost of a simple sugar recepie is a few kilos of sugar, some
nutreints and some good yeast, or a package of turbo yeast.
It's probibly more expensive to buy a package of turbo yeast. If you
look at the numbers you will probibly come out to arount 6-8dollars
per 25Liters of 18% alcohol, I don't know how many US, or British
gallons that is sorry. You put the ingredients all together and 6-10
days later it's ready.

Wine is going to be 12 to 14% so you are going to spend more time,
and gas or electricity boiling, that's gonna cost money too. If you
buy turbos and take good care it is supposed to be possible to get
23% out of them. This is going to save alot of time cooking weak wine
and you'll get like twice as much alcohol out of the wine.

The cheapest way to do things is usually to do it yourself, this
isn't an exception.

Billy


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "pussycataprilia" <try.it@...>
wrote:
>
> maybe this is what I should have asked for.
> Residual wine. I am not looking to buy a finished quality wine.
> On the other hand I am not looking to distill and make my own
whiskey
> Vodka and rum because of a cost savings.
> If I calculated how much I have already spent and what I need to
still
> purchase to do this well, I would be saving money if I buy Hanger 1
or
> any other top shelf booze made from any Micro distiller.   [;)]
>
> So from a pure cost basis, picking up bulk wine or residual wine at
any
> cost saves me so much time from boiling fermenting etc... and then
> trying to get the same quality batch so that I can get enough low
wines
> to distill again... well... from a cost basis I am saving money by
> saving time...
>
> Besides, I have a 19 Gallon boiler and only the ability to make 25
> liters of wash at a time... so If I can get 19 gallons of a residual
> wine I can run off alcohol fast then re distill to a neutral alcohol
> much more quickly, efficiently and consistently
>
> So, with all that said... I will look into the local brew house and
our
> breweries locally and see what I can come up with.
>
> Thanks for the idea

I use a fish pump and clear hose along with a circular piece of 1/4
copper tubing with holes punched into it to aerate my wash. When I was
setting up the aerator I noticed a red tint to the clear hose.

What could this be and how should I go about cleaning it out?

The best for last
BILL1BURP

Hello folks.

For the past few months I have been working the corn flake with corn
meal mesh. I have just finished my 4th mesh and I am getting
confortable with it.

I got about 2.5 gallons of water boiling. I am able to add the
processed corn flakes straight to the boiling water without it
clumping up. I then use about 3/4 of a gallon of cool water to mix my
corn meal into it and then pour that into my mesh pot. This is how I
can get the corn meal not to clump up.

When I do get it back up to boiling I will keep it at a slow boil for
about an hour. Then I take the pot and put it into my sink and add
cool water around the pot to cool it down. When I get it to 155F I
will put it back on the stove and add 1 pound of malted barley. After
just a few minutes the corn soup will thin out and get watery. I will
put the flame on low and hold it between 140F to 155F for about 45
minutes.

This time I got very little scorching at the bottom of the pan.

1 Box Corn Flakes 18 oz.
2 Pounds of Stone Milled Corn Meal
1 Pound of Malted Barley
7 Pounds of Sugar
3 Tablespoons of Distillers Nutrients
1.5 Gallons of backset
5 Gallons of filtered Water
2 Packets of EC-1118 Yeast 5ml each

I got an SG 1.070 at 81F + .002 = 1.072 SG

I have been trying prepare myself for a full grain mesh. What should
my next step be in preparing for a full grain mesh?


The best for last
BILL1BURP

Hey PussyCat,

Im sorry but have to disagree.  You said below your looking for
neutral alcohol.  To ferment out 25 liters of a sugar wash at 14% ABV
will giv you approx. 3.5 liters of 90% neutral alcohol.
The higest ABV any wine you can get is about 12% ABV.

All you will need for 25 liters of 14% ABV sugar wash is:

-6 Kilo white cane sugar (13 lbs)
-2 packets bakers yeast or brewers yeast
-3 or 4 tablespoons of yeast nutrient @ $2.00 per pound
-2 cups of oatmeal or grain for solids and protein.

In US dollars, this is:
sugar ~ $6.00
yeast - $0.75
nutrient ~ $0.15
oatmeal, corn, flour etc. ~ $0.20

Total cost about $7.10 for 3.5 liters of 180 proof neutral alcohol or
1 dollar per liter of 90 proof (not including heating expense).

Now try and find 25 liters of any wine for $7.00 US ...........

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "pussycataprilia" <try.it@...>

wrote:
maybe this is what I should have asked for.
Residual wine. I am not looking to buy a finished quality wine.
On the other hand I am not looking to distill and make my own whiskey
Vodka and rum because of a cost savings.
If I calculated how much I have already spent and what I need to
still purchase to do this well, I would be saving money if I buy
Hanger 1 or any other top shelf booze made from any Micro distiller.

So from a pure cost basis, picking up bulk wine or residual wine at
any cost saves me so much time from boiling fermenting etc... and
then trying to get the same quality batch so that I can get enough
low wines to distill again... well... from a cost basis I am saving
money by saving time...

Besides, I have a 19 Gallon boiler and only the ability to make 25
liters of wash at a time... so If I can get 19 gallons of a residual
wine I can run off alcohol fast then re distill to a neutral alcohol
much more quickly, efficiently and consistently

So, with all that said... I will look into the local brew house and
our breweries locally and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the idea


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "mstehelin" <mstehelin@...>
wrote:
>
> Pussy-etc,
> If You live in BC or Ontario you can go to the local U-brew and make
> them a deal. Give them 3 5 gallon slop buckets (with lids) that you
> exchange every week. They put the residue from their wine making in
> the buckets. Each bucket will contain 1/3 yeast sludge, 2/3 crap
wine.
> Usually a rosé. Good for large parties. Makes perfect Sangria. You
> can also use it for homemade wine vinegar. Maybe you might even
> distill it.
> If you do all of the above, the odd bottle of whatever-you-make
> given to the proprietor-and clean buckets- will facilitate future
> co-operation.
> Cheers
> M
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "pussycataprilia" try.it@
> wrote:
> >
> > I was looking for bulk wine... not necessarily good wine...
> > Basically if Vodka is a nuetral spirit then we need to pull the
alcohol
> > out of the wash.. in this case the wash would be the wine.
> >
> > With that said... the local wine brewery store knew of a guy that
was
> > buying second rate or bulk wine (not exactly sure) but he lost
contact
> > with the guy and has no idea where he was getting it...
> >
> > SO I wondered if anyone here has done this sort of thing and
where you
> > would get it or how you would go about it.
> >

No clue Bill,

Maybe comming from pump lubricant - just git some more of dat hose at
your local fish store :).

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "daddyman00126"
<daddyman00126@...> wrote:
>
> I use a fish pump and clear hose along with a circular piece of 1/4
> copper tubing with holes punched into it to aerate my wash. When I was
> setting up the aerator I noticed a red tint to the clear hose.
>
> What could this be and how should I go about cleaning it out?
>
> The best for last
> BILL1BURP
>

Hey Bill,

First step would be to learn how to spell M-A-S-H right, not mesh.;);)

Next, look up MASH or MASHING in the Info base and read up on it.
There are several steps required to mashing and using malted barley,
or you can use enzymes or diastatic malt extract.  It should be all
in there.

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "daddyman00126"
<daddyman00126@...> wrote:
>
> Hello folks.
>
> For the past few months I have been working the corn flake with
corn
> meal mesh. I have just finished my 4th mesh and I am getting
> confortable with it.
>
> I got about 2.5 gallons of water boiling. I am able to add the
> processed corn flakes straight to the boiling water without it
> clumping up. I then use about 3/4 of a gallon of cool water to mix
my
> corn meal into it and then pour that into my mesh pot. This is how
I
> can get the corn meal not to clump up.
>
> When I do get it back up to boiling I will keep it at a slow boil
for
> about an hour. Then I take the pot and put it into my sink and add
> cool water around the pot to cool it down. When I get it to 155F I
> will put it back on the stove and add 1 pound of malted barley.
After
> just a few minutes the corn soup will thin out and get watery. I
will
> put the flame on low and hold it between 140F to 155F for about 45
> minutes.
>
> This time I got very little scorching at the bottom of the pan.
>
> 1 Box Corn Flakes 18 oz.
> 2 Pounds of Stone Milled Corn Meal
> 1 Pound of Malted Barley
> 7 Pounds of Sugar
> 3 Tablespoons of Distillers Nutrients
> 1.5 Gallons of backset
> 5 Gallons of filtered Water
> 2 Packets of EC-1118 Yeast 5ml each
>
> I got an SG 1.070 at 81F + .002 = 1.072 SG
>
> I have been trying prepare myself for a full grain mesh. What
should
> my next step be in preparing for a full grain mesh?
>
>
> The best for last
> BILL1BURP
>

Hey Billy,

Turbo yeasts are made according the ABV you want to get.  If you look
at Gert Strand's page on Turbo yeasts in the Info base, there are 14%
Turbos, 18% Turbos, 20% Turbos and 23% Turbos.  Its just a question of
which type you want to buy.  But I have seen (along with Ken Mc.)
people having problems with the 23% Turbo yeast - it has to be done
just so.

Other then that, everything you said I totally agree with.

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "billy.turf" <billy.turf@...>
wrote:

---snip---
Wine is going to be 12 to 14% so you are going to spend more time,
and gas or electricity boiling, that's gonna cost money too. If you
buy turbos and take good care it is supposed to be possible to get
23% out of them. This is going to save alot of time cooking weak wine
and you'll get like twice as much alcohol out of the wine.

The cheapest way to do things is usually to do it yourself, this
isn't an exception.

Billy

Sorry I ve been away very busy the past week.... I just want to say
THANK YOU  to all who responded to answer my question, You all were
very informative.

I have a very heavy Alum Pot with Tight lid that will be very easy
for me to "lock down" and attach a column to. This will only be
for "testing", untill I can gather the required knowledge through the
practice of trial and errors.

Once again ,  Thank You for the information.

JohnS



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Mason Dixon <rye_junkie@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Hello JohnS and welcome to the Group.
> Although I have a personal aversion to AL in a still,  There are
some very experienced fellas here that
> swear by their AL Pressure cooker rigs and say there is no off or
metallic taste in their product.  I believe
> them and know they would not use them if they were harmful.
>
> Mason
>
> To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
> From: torch031@...
> Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 17:42:04 +0000
> Subject: [new_distillers] Hi, I am New to the Group...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>             Hi, My name is JohnS and I joined the group a little
while ago.  I
>
> remember my father making his own alcohol when I was a young lad
and
>
> even helped transformed a pressure-cooker into a still when I was
in
>
> Machine Shop in High School. (my father is from the East Coast of
>
> Canada)
>
>
>
> I have been doing alot of reading on your site and the wealth of
>
> information is remarkable!  I already had a basic understanding of
>
> making a still, but your stills are very much more effeicent.
>
>
>
> Question???
>
>
>
> Can an Alunimun pot be used for the kettle, or will it contaminate
>
> the spirits?   I have a nice large one with a locking lid, which I
>
> could easily convert for a still if it is safe to use.
>
>
>
> I will continue to do alot more reading and learning before I take
>
> the chance of poisoning myself or exploding the still ( I do like
the
>
> ideal of the enternal heating coil to reduce this risk! )
>
>
>
> Anyways... Thank you for having a very informitive group.
>
>
>
> JohnS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Give to a good cause with every e-mail. Join the i'm Initiative
from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?souce=EML_WL_
GoodCause
>

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the new_distillers
group.

   File        : /Ken Mc./Z Filter.pdf
   Uploaded by : goodyear1952 <km_services@...>
   Description : Ken Mc Set up for Z filter

You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,

goodyear1952 <km_services@...>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
<jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> The British version of the product is a sticky, dark brown paste with
> a distinctive, powerful flavour, which is extremely salty and savoury



Beware of putting anything too salty (Sodium Chloride) in your
fermentations.  Salt, even in relatively small amounts, will stop yeast
activity dead in its tracks!  Ask any baker (my previous life).

Just as an example, when I was baking, I made bread doughs with a total
mass of 42kg which contained 500g salt and 1kg compressed yeast.  If I
doubled the salt to 1kg inadvertantly (sometimes happens, nobody's
perfect) then the resulting dough refused to rise (no yeast activity)
and it had to be thrown out and made again.  Boss definitely NOT happy!

Slainte!
regards Harry

Thanks Jim

BILL1BURP

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
<jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Bill,
>
> First step would be to learn how to spell M-A-S-H right, not
mesh.;);)
>
> Next, look up MASH or MASHING in the Info base and read up on it.
> There are several steps required to mashing and using malted
barley,
> or you can use enzymes or diastatic malt extract.  It should be all
> in there.
>
> Vino es Veritas,
> Jim.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "daddyman00126"
> <daddyman00126@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello folks.
> >
> > For the past few months I have been working the corn flake with
> corn
> > meal mesh. I have just finished my 4th mesh and I am getting
> > confortable with it.
> >
> > I got about 2.5 gallons of water boiling. I am able to add the
> > processed corn flakes straight to the boiling water without it
> > clumping up. I then use about 3/4 of a gallon of cool water to
mix
> my
> > corn meal into it and then pour that into my mesh pot. This is
how
> I
> > can get the corn meal not to clump up.
> >
> > When I do get it back up to boiling I will keep it at a slow boil
> for
> > about an hour. Then I take the pot and put it into my sink and
add
> > cool water around the pot to cool it down. When I get it to 155F
I
> > will put it back on the stove and add 1 pound of malted barley.
> After
> > just a few minutes the corn soup will thin out and get watery. I
> will
> > put the flame on low and hold it between 140F to 155F for about
45
> > minutes.
> >
> > This time I got very little scorching at the bottom of the pan.
> >
> > 1 Box Corn Flakes 18 oz.
> > 2 Pounds of Stone Milled Corn Meal
> > 1 Pound of Malted Barley
> > 7 Pounds of Sugar
> > 3 Tablespoons of Distillers Nutrients
> > 1.5 Gallons of backset
> > 5 Gallons of filtered Water
> > 2 Packets of EC-1118 Yeast 5ml each
> >
> > I got an SG 1.070 at 81F + .002 = 1.072 SG
> >
> > I have been trying prepare myself for a full grain mesh. What
> should
> > my next step be in preparing for a full grain mesh?
> >
> >
> > The best for last
> > BILL1BURP
> >
>