Thanks Stevo for your help,

It seems DSE don't have the BTA140-600 but I did find a mob called
Rockby Electronics in Melbourne have them for $7 dollars something.
It would be much safer to get it.

Cheers
Marc

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "stevolate" <stevolate@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Marc
>        I just found some info Mike N sent to me.
> My electronics guy agreed with Mike. His message below.
>
> One small modification you might consider though change the triac
you
> are using from a BT139-600 16amp to a BTA140-600. It has the same
> current and voltage rating, and is identical except in one
important
> respect it has internal ceramic insulation that prevents mains
voltage
> being connected to the metal backing tab. As the triac is attached
to
> the heat sink by this tab, this means that you will no longer have
a
> "live" heat sink, and your controller will be a lot safer to
handle.
>
> All the best,
> Mike N
>
>
>
> > Hi Stevo,
> >
> > Stevo I found it through the archives, where and when, don't
know.
> It's one
> > of the problems of a big data base.  Gees, sorry Stevo it's not
your
> fault.
> >
> > Drink just finisnhed
> > Marc
>

Cited for academic purposes only.

Source:  https://www.palgrave.com/foundations/lewis/pdfs/10lewisa.pdf

Slainte!

regards Harry

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Variance of Rules:

Well done! It took me a while but it was worth it. There were fewer
postings when I started, though. Even now I sometimes go back to do a
search on the old stuff. It's a valuable resource.

Cheers,
Lindsay.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gff_stwrt" <gff_stwrt@...> wrote:
>
>        I've finished reading the past messages; over twenty thousand
> of them!
> I think I'm getting an idea of what this is all about.
> The Baker
>

I caught the tail end of a news item on the local TV station last
night. Someone on the Sunshine Coast had a problem with their still
over the weekend resulting in a VERY large bang.  It completely
demolished a garden shed and the still ended up a couple of houses
away.
I don't know what went wrong but it is a good reminder to us all that
our hobby has some inherent dangers if the safety procedures are not
adhered to, particularly never leave a still unattended.

That's impressive....

Gotta wonder what happened to make an explosion...  I can understand
for those people who use gas burner to heat you could get a fire...
hmmm maybe a fire that then caused the gas tank to explode..???

I use electric and whilst we still obviously need to be careful, hot
flammable liquids is always a risk, it's much harder for something
like this to go wrong.

PS I bought a fire extinguisher after seeing how ethanol burns ie
almost invisible..  that way i only have to spray the entire area, not
hunt it down.



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "duds2u" <taylormc@...> wrote:
>
> I caught the tail end of a news item on the local TV station last
> night. Someone on the Sunshine Coast had a problem with their still
> over the weekend resulting in a VERY large bang.  It completely
> demolished a garden shed and the still ended up a couple of houses
> away.
> I don't know what went wrong but it is a good reminder to us all that
> our hobby has some inherent dangers if the safety procedures are not
> adhered to, particularly never leave a still unattended.
>

Hi Folks,

I checked out the archives of the local Sunshine Coast
newspaper, http://www.sunshinecoastdaily.com.au and
can't find any mention of it.

If it did happen, I wonder how they kept it out of the
local paper? Anyone know the local fire brigade staff,
as they'd almost certainly know about it.

Cheerz Wab

--- dtswk <ndistillers@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
That's impressive....

Gotta wonder what happened to make an explosion...  I
can understand
for those people who use gas burner to heat you could
get a fire...
hmmm maybe a fire that then caused the gas tank to
explode..???

I use electric and whilst we still obviously need to
be careful, hot
flammable liquids is always a risk, it's much harder
for something
like this to go wrong.

PS I bought a fire extinguisher after seeing how
ethanol burns ie
almost invisible..  that way i only have to spray the
entire area, not
hunt it down.



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "duds2u"
<taylormc@...> wrote:
>
> I caught the tail end of a news item on the local TV
station last
> night. Someone on the Sunshine Coast had a problem
with their still
> over the weekend resulting in a VERY large bang.  It
completely
> demolished a garden shed and the still ended up a
couple of houses
> away.
> I don't know what went wrong but it is a good
reminder to us all that
> our hobby has some inherent dangers if the safety
procedures are not
> adhered to, particularly never leave a still
unattended.
>






  New Distillers group archives are at
http://archive.nnytech.net/
  FAQ and other information available at
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--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "dtswk" <ndistillers@...>
wrote:
>
> That's impressive....
>
> Gotta wonder what happened to make an explosion...  I can
understand
> for those people who use gas burner to heat you could get a
fire...
> hmmm maybe a fire that then caused the gas tank to explode..???
>
> I use electric and whilst we still obviously need to be careful,
hot
> flammable liquids is always a risk, it's much harder for something
> like this to go wrong.
>
> PS I bought a fire extinguisher after seeing how ethanol burns ie
> almost invisible..  that way i only have to spray the entire area,
not
> hunt it down.



I don't wonder at all.  Gas or electric, they all go BOOM in the
right (or wrong) circumstances.  Check out what happened to my
friend Jim, an expert at demolishing sheds.  :-)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/20138


Slainte!
regards Harry

In a shed with gas heat and a leaking boiler It Will Go BOOM ! Ive seen it done
. Too little ventiation and not enough Give a Damn about leaks.= A serious
mess.Some of my buddies made their own still while drunk and ran 25 Lt of mash.
Only got 1 pint of product. The wall paper curled up that night. Luckily thats
the only thing that went wrong.

dtswk <ndistillers@...> wrote:  That's impressive....

Gotta wonder what happened to make an explosion...  I can understand
for those people who use gas burner to heat you could get a fire...
hmmm maybe a fire that then caused the gas tank to explode..???

I use electric and whilst we still obviously need to be careful, hot
flammable liquids is always a risk, it's much harder for something
like this to go wrong.

PS I bought a fire extinguisher after seeing how ethanol burns ie
almost invisible..  that way i only have to spray the entire area, not
hunt it down.



--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "duds2u" <taylormc@...> wrote:
>
> I caught the tail end of a news item on the local TV station last
> night. Someone on the Sunshine Coast had a problem with their still
> over the weekend resulting in a VERY large bang.  It completely
> demolished a garden shed and the still ended up a couple of houses
> away.
> I don't know what went wrong but it is a good reminder to us all that
> our hobby has some inherent dangers if the safety procedures are not
> adhered to, particularly never leave a still unattended.
>






New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org





   SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Shit Harry, I hope I remember that for a future life.  :))
......blanikdog

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Harry
   To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [new_distillers] Brainteaser answer
   Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 08:36:09 -0000

   [IMAGE]

   [IMAGE]

   Cited for academic purposes only.

   Source: https://www.palgrave.com/foundations/lewis/pdfs/10lewisa.pdf

   Slainte!

   regards Harry



   New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
   FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org





   SPONSORED LINKS
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   Culture club Organizational culture Distillers

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

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"Most of the troubles of the world are caused by human beings". (Shakyamuni
Buddha)

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sonum norbu" <blanik@...>
wrote:
>
> Shit Harry, I hope I remember that for a future life.  :))
> ......blanikdog



Heh, I thought that would get your attention.
The thing is, it also works in reverse, in that for the alcohol to be
cooled down, it must give up that heat.  This means it's easy to
calculate how much heat needs to be removed per hour from a known
quantity of vapour produced per hour.  (however you need to make calcs
using the latent heat of vaporization for that).  What can you do with
the info?  Design and build a condenser to remove that amount of heat,
of course.  No guesswork, no 'overkill'.  Job done.

If you want 2 condensers in a VM still, 1 for reflux & 1 for product
condensing & cooling, you can use calcs to design for both.  If you
want 1 reflux/product condenser in a LM still, just match your heat
source's output (BTU, or Watts) to the calcs for removing that heat
Then you can predict accurately how much juice you collect per hour
for any given reflux ratio and power input.  How do you judge the
size/amount of the heat input?  By calculating the amount of vapour
that input will produce, then calculating the speed of that vapour
volume in your proposed column diameter.  Too fast?  Either reduce the
heat input, or get a bigger diameter column.  This is what I mean when
I say that designing stills is all a matter of balance.  Done
correctly, power controllers, lots of coils/metal, big pumps etc
aren't necessary.  Thus costs of building and operation are reduced
considerably.

If you're building a 'one-off' it doesn't matter so much, just follow
a known configuration that works.  But if you're building as a
business, or building one from scratch by your own design, then cost
and/or rebuild to fix mistakes are real issues.


Slainte!
regards Harry

I knew that!!!!.....blanikdog   :)

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Harry
   To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Brainteaser answer
   Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 01:38:43 -0000

   --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sonum norbu" <blanik@...>
   wrote:
   >
   > Shit Harry, I hope I remember that for a future life.  :))
   > ......blanikdog



   Heh, I thought that would get your attention.
   The thing is, it also works in reverse, in that for the alcohol to be
   cooled down, it must give up that heat.  This means it's easy to
   calculate how much heat needs to be removed per hour from a known
   quantity of vapour produced per hour.  (however you need to make
   calcs
   using the latent heat of vaporization for that).  What can you do
   with
   the info?  Design and build a condenser to remove that amount of
   heat,
   of course.  No guesswork, no 'overkill'.  Job done.

   If you want 2 condensers in a VM still, 1 for reflux & 1 for product
   condensing & cooling, you can use calcs to design for both.  If you
   want 1 reflux/product condenser in a LM still, just match your heat
   source's output (BTU, or Watts) to the calcs for removing that heat
   Then you can predict accurately how much juice you collect per hour
   for any given reflux ratio and power input.  How do you judge the
   size/amount of the heat input?  By calculating the amount of vapour
   that input will produce, then calculating the speed of that vapour
   volume in your proposed column diameter.  Too fast?  Either reduce
   the
   heat input, or get a bigger diameter column.  This is what I mean
   when
   I say that designing stills is all a matter of balance.  Done
   correctly, power controllers, lots of coils/metal, big pumps etc
   aren't necessary.  Thus costs of building and operation are reduced
   considerably.

   If you're building a 'one-off' it doesn't matter so much, just follow
   a known configuration that works.  But if you're building as a
   business, or building one from scratch by your own design, then cost
   and/or rebuild to fix mistakes are real issues.


   Slainte!
   regards Harry





   New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
   FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org





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   Culture club Organizational culture Distillers

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Buddha)

SOARING, SAILING AND SKYDIVING web page
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IRC server tessnet.cx

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and find myself at a
crossroads.

My immediate goal is the reliable production of good quality,
drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely flavored fruit
brandy.

It looks like the most direct way to achieve my first goal is a copper
pipe internal reflux still, about 4'x2", packed with pot scrubbers,
with a water jacketed condenser, and a good charcoal filter.  I'll use
a small electric pump to cycle swimming pool water through the
condenser.  For the pot, I'm planning on gas fired double boiler, the
main tank made from a 1/2 size stainless beer keg, and a sugar or HFCS
wash with a commercial turbo yeast.

But that looks like it's about useless for my ultimate goal.  Any
suggestions?  Would a valved reflux be a better compromise?  Or should
I just go to a large pot still and assume multiple runs?

If I were you I'd try building a modern cooling management still with
reflux condenser on top only (no through tubes in the packed area of
the column). It works very well for neutral spirits and can be used
efficiently to emulate those small brandy towers with couple of
plates. You can also make good whiskey with one of those and with
proper settings it will give in one run very similar results as a
double or tripple distillation in a potstill.

- Riku

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
<richardt2005@...> wrote:
>
> I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and find myself at a
> crossroads.
>
> My immediate goal is the reliable production of good quality,
> drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely flavored fruit
> brandy.
>
> It looks like the most direct way to achieve my first goal is a
copper
> pipe internal reflux still, about 4'x2", packed with pot scrubbers,
> with a water jacketed condenser, and a good charcoal filter.  I'll
use
> a small electric pump to cycle swimming pool water through the
> condenser.  For the pot, I'm planning on gas fired double boiler,
the
> main tank made from a 1/2 size stainless beer keg, and a sugar or
HFCS
> wash with a commercial turbo yeast.
>
> But that looks like it's about useless for my ultimate goal.  Any
> suggestions?  Would a valved reflux be a better compromise?  Or
should
> I just go to a large pot still and assume multiple runs?
>

Hello Board!

I've been reading the messages and learning about distilling alcohol
to drink for a while now.

I've started to look for sources of materials to build my still and
admit i'm having real problems!

Is there anyone in the UK that knows of some sources of copper tubing
and fittings? It seems i can only order 3metres of 75mm tubing at
£48+VAT per metre. Only needing about 30cm is a pain. I suppose i
could build lots of stills!?!?!

Thanks for any input!

Boe.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc"
<abbababbaccc@...> wrote:
>
> If I were you I'd try building a modern cooling management still
with
> reflux condenser on top only (no through tubes in the packed area
of
> the column).

I can't quite picture it from your description.

Something like a 4 foot column with the upper 1/3 packed, and that
part with a couple of cooling coils around the outside of the tower?

Hi, Riku. Why recommend a CM system rather than LM or VM? I have moved
from CM to VM and know I would never go back to CM. Messing with water
flows is just too depressing to contemplate!

Cheers,
Lindsay.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc"
<abbababbaccc@...> wrote:
>
> If I were you I'd try building a modern cooling management still with
> reflux condenser on top only (no through tubes in the packed area of
> the column). It works very well for neutral spirits and can be used
> efficiently to emulate those small brandy towers with couple of
> plates. You can also make good whiskey with one of those and with
> proper settings it will give in one run very similar results as a
> double or tripple distillation in a potstill.
>
> - Riku
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
> <richardt2005@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and find myself at a
> > crossroads.
> >
> > My immediate goal is the reliable production of good quality,
> > drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely flavored fruit
> > brandy.
> >
> > It looks like the most direct way to achieve my first goal is a
> copper
> > pipe internal reflux still, about 4'x2", packed with pot scrubbers,
> > with a water jacketed condenser, and a good charcoal filter.  I'll
> use
> > a small electric pump to cycle swimming pool water through the
> > condenser.  For the pot, I'm planning on gas fired double boiler,
> the
> > main tank made from a 1/2 size stainless beer keg, and a sugar or
> HFCS
> > wash with a commercial turbo yeast.
> >
> > But that looks like it's about useless for my ultimate goal.  Any
> > suggestions?  Would a valved reflux be a better compromise?  Or
> should
> > I just go to a large pot still and assume multiple runs?
> >
>

No, a regular 1 meter packed column and a reflux coil on top of that (+
a reflux spreader/collar). Then from above that reflux coil you have
connection to a product condenser. Many of those old CM designs have
through pipes at the packing area and that makes them both inefficient
and difficult to disassemble.

- Riku

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
<richardt2005@...> wrote:
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc"
> <abbababbaccc@> wrote:
> >
> > If I were you I'd try building a modern cooling management still
> with
> > reflux condenser on top only (no through tubes in the packed area
> of
> > the column).
>
> I can't quite picture it from your description.
>
> Something like a 4 foot column with the upper 1/3 packed, and that
> part with a couple of cooling coils around the outside of the tower?
>

Using VM for flavored spirits is quite difficult since there's very
little tails. The LM tends to have problems with valves not holding
adjustments. If they hold adjustment the RR is constant throughout
the run which is not what happens in a potstill / short brandy
column. With CM the RR increases some towards the end giving better
emulation of the "real thing". The issue here was to have a rig that
can produce neutral spirits and be good for flavored spirits - thus
CM. If you do flavored spirits with CM you should have a small
constant amount of cooling for the reflux condenser - ie. no messing
with water flows. Also, using constant cooling (ambient air cooling
as an example) and power control gets rid of those water flow
problems.

For just neutral spirits ARC and VM are your best choices, depending
on the level of automation you want.

- Riku

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Lindsay Williams"
<lindsay.nz@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Riku. Why recommend a CM system rather than LM or VM? I have
moved
> from CM to VM and know I would never go back to CM. Messing with
water
> flows is just too depressing to contemplate!
>
> Cheers,
> Lindsay.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc"
> <abbababbaccc@> wrote:
> >
> > If I were you I'd try building a modern cooling management still
with
> > reflux condenser on top only (no through tubes in the packed area
of
> > the column). It works very well for neutral spirits and can be
used
> > efficiently to emulate those small brandy towers with couple of
> > plates. You can also make good whiskey with one of those and with
> > proper settings it will give in one run very similar results as a
> > double or tripple distillation in a potstill.
> >
> > - Riku
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
> > <richardt2005@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and find myself
at a
> > > crossroads.
> > >
> > > My immediate goal is the reliable production of good quality,
> > > drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely flavored
fruit
> > > brandy.
> > >
> > > It looks like the most direct way to achieve my first goal is a
> > copper
> > > pipe internal reflux still, about 4'x2", packed with pot
scrubbers,
> > > with a water jacketed condenser, and a good charcoal filter.
I'll
> > use
> > > a small electric pump to cycle swimming pool water through the
> > > condenser.  For the pot, I'm planning on gas fired double
boiler,
> > the
> > > main tank made from a 1/2 size stainless beer keg, and a sugar
or
> > HFCS
> > > wash with a commercial turbo yeast.
> > >
> > > But that looks like it's about useless for my ultimate goal.
Any
> > > suggestions?  Would a valved reflux be a better compromise?  Or
> > should
> > > I just go to a large pot still and assume multiple runs?
> > >
> >
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
<richardt2005@...> wrote:
>
> I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and find myself at a
> crossroads.
>
> My immediate goal is the reliable production of good quality,
> drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely flavored fruit
> brandy.

If your goal is brandy, my advice would be to set up a nice clean pot
still.  It's a simple start and it has the fewest parts, simplest
setup, and allows you to get started sooner without as many doohickeys
to assemble/locate/engineer. Do multiple runs if you're after a more
neutral spirit, but you can't beat a pot still for retaining the
flavors of the fruit wash/wine that you're starting with.

Trid

I had a still built as per Harrys design.He has put a lot of thought in this
design and I must say to him "THANKS FOR THE EFFORT" The crossflow condensor
works very well. I have a small pond pump recycling water from a 200 litre drum.
The flow of water through the tubes in the condensor is very easlily controlled
and the pump is not working hard at all.

I have also had made a mini still as per Alex,s design. I made up a double helix
cooling coil and have found the pump struggles a bit to maintain a good flow of
cooling water through 1/4 inch cooper tubing.

Both of these stills function well. I have a lot to learn on how to operate them
to their ultimate performance.. But if you are looking for a good easily
constructed still these are the ones I would be looking at. They both pump out
around 92 to 94% so what more do you want.

Vickypoint.

Lindsay Williams <lindsay.nz@...> wrote:    Hi, Riku. Why recommend a CM
system rather than LM or VM? I have moved
  from CM to VM and know I would never go back to CM. Messing with water
  flows is just too depressing to contemplate!

  Cheers,
  Lindsay.

  --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc"
  <abbababbaccc@...> wrote:
  >
  > If I were you I'd try building a modern cooling management still with
  > reflux condenser on top only (no through tubes in the packed area of
  > the column). It works very well for neutral spirits and can be used
  > efficiently to emulate those small brandy towers with couple of
  > plates. You can also make good whiskey with one of those and with
  > proper settings it will give in one run very similar results as a
  > double or tripple distillation in a potstill.
  >
  > - Riku
  >
  > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
  > <richardt2005@> wrote:
  > >
  > > I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and find myself at a
  > > crossroads.
  > >
  > > My immediate goal is the reliable production of good quality,
  > > drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely flavored fruit
  > > brandy.
  > >
  > > It looks like the most direct way to achieve my first goal is a
  > copper
  > > pipe internal reflux still, about 4'x2", packed with pot scrubbers,
  > > with a water jacketed condenser, and a good charcoal filter.  I'll
  > use
  > > a small electric pump to cycle swimming pool water through the
  > > condenser.  For the pot, I'm planning on gas fired double boiler,
  > the
  > > main tank made from a 1/2 size stainless beer keg, and a sugar or
  > HFCS
  > > wash with a commercial turbo yeast.
  > >
  > > But that looks like it's about useless for my ultimate goal.  Any
  > > suggestions?  Would a valved reflux be a better compromise?  Or
  > should
  > > I just go to a large pot still and assume multiple runs?
  > >
  >







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Frank
vickypoint2003@...

"Failure is never so frightening as regret"
Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you have the time and can access material,
why not build your still with two "heads", one a
simple pot still with worm for brandy, rum etc
and a VM/CM/LM your choice for clean spirits ?
I know this solution is not an option for all, but
it works for me
cheers
greg

--- Trid <triddlywinks@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
<richardt2005@...> wrote:
>
> I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and
find myself at a
> crossroads.
>
> My immediate goal is the reliable production of good
quality,
> drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely
flavored fruit
> brandy.

If your goal is brandy, my advice would be to set up a
nice clean pot
still.  It's a simple start and it has the fewest
parts, simplest
setup, and allows you to get started sooner without as
many doohickeys
to assemble/locate/engineer. Do multiple runs if
you're after a more
neutral spirit, but you can't beat a pot still for
retaining the
flavors of the fruit wash/wine that you're starting
with.

Trid





  New Distillers group archives are at
http://archive.nnytech.net/
  FAQ and other information available at
http://homedistiller.org





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and drink                                    Home
distilling                                    Culture

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But here's the catch, if you have CM system you can bypass the reflux
condenser and have in practise a potstill. Add/remove packing to fine
tune it to the internal reflux ratio (all potstills have internal
reflux, some designs quite a lot actually) that suits your flavored
drink style. No need for two heads as you can use one still in
several modes.

- Riku

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, greg tufts <gregtufts@...>
wrote:
>
>   If you have the time and can access material,
> why not build your still with two "heads", one a
> simple pot still with worm for brandy, rum etc
> and a VM/CM/LM your choice for clean spirits ?
> I know this solution is not an option for all, but
> it works for me
> cheers
> greg
>
> --- Trid <triddlywinks@...> wrote:
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "richardt2005"
> <richardt2005@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm starting to buy parts for my first still, and
> find myself at a
> > crossroads.
> >
> > My immediate goal is the reliable production of good
> quality,
> > drinkable ethanol.  My ultimate goal is intensely
> flavored fruit
> > brandy.
>
> If your goal is brandy, my advice would be to set up a
> nice clean pot
> still.  It's a simple start and it has the fewest
> parts, simplest
> setup, and allows you to get started sooner without as
> many doohickeys
> to assemble/locate/engineer. Do multiple runs if
> you're after a more
> neutral spirit, but you can't beat a pot still for
> retaining the
> flavors of the fruit wash/wine that you're starting
> with.
>
> Trid
>
>
>
>
>
>  New Distillers group archives are at
> http://archive.nnytech.net/
>  FAQ and other information available at
> http://homedistiller.org
>
>
>
>
>
>       SPONSORED LINKS
>                                                 Food
> and drink                                    Home
> distilling                                    Culture
>
>        Culture club
> Organizational culture
>    Distillers
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>     Visit your group "new_distillers" on the web.
>
>     To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> Terms of Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

Hello all

The other day I was going to distill 1 gal of low wines 40 abv in my 4
gal ss boiler. I put 4 10mm glass beads in the boiler and started the
run. After about 10min of collecting(2 drips/sec)I began having
massive vapor surges that blew right past the condenser and into the
air! The heat was absolute minimum and water flow at max and it made
no difference. After the 3rd surge I shut it down. Was this caused by
the extra space in the boiler from it being only 1/3 full? This was
the most unnerving experience. I am building a more capable condenser
no matter but would like to know the possible cause.

Thanks

S! Yukon

PS This was without my thumper in place.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Vickypoint <vickypoint2003@...>
wrote:
>
> I had a still built as per Harrys design.He has put a lot of thought
in this design and I must say to him "THANKS FOR THE EFFORT" The
crossflow condensor works very well. I have a small pond pump
recycling water from a 200 litre drum. The flow of water through the
tubes in the condensor is very easlily controlled and the pump is not
working hard at all.
>
> I have also had made a mini still as per Alex,s design. I made up a
double helix cooling coil and have found the pump struggles a bit to
maintain a good flow of cooling water through 1/4 inch cooper tubing.


Any link to Harry's or Alex's design?  (I'm sorry to have not read all
20,000 postings, there are whole rafts of resources that I haven't
found yet.)

So, I'm already on the road of experimentation with toasted oak for my
purposes here at home... but I'm having issues with color and flavor
still. I'm looking to emulate the dark-ish color of my Eagle Rare 10
year bourbon, basically, and sorta get near that flavor too, if not even
a bit more so. I'm got a few thumb sized chunks of white oak in the
bottle with 750mL of 47% corn spirit now, and it's definitely a good
*tan* color, but hardly noticeable when you pour it into a glass. I've
got the oak toasted at 450 degrees for 2.5 hours. It's dark colored
wood! Where am I missing out here? Is it a time thing? I've only had it
in there a week now.. does it really take that long for color formation?
Do I need more wood, is all? Darker still? I tried something different
this time by diluting to working strength and *then* putting the wood
in... which is something I didn't do on the other tests I've done, but
they didn't get any darker than this one is right now after several
weeks. Something else I'm not taking into consideration?

Mike

On Wed, 3 May 2006 11:37:29 -0700, you wrote:

>So, I'm already on the road of experimentation with toasted oak for my
>purposes here at home... but I'm having issues with color and flavor
>still. I'm looking to emulate the dark-ish color of my Eagle Rare 10
>year bourbon, basically, and sorta get near that flavor too, if not even
>a bit more so. I'm got a few thumb sized chunks of white oak in the
>bottle with 750mL of 47% corn spirit now<<<snip>>>

For that amount, you might try charring something like a 2"x4"x3/4"
block of white oak. Use your torch (really hot!!) and char the larger
(3"x4") sides - not the edges. Yes, turn them to deep charcoal,
cracked like an alligator skin.  LET IT COOL and toss it in.

You might want to throw in a couple pieces of dries apricot, and maybe
a smidge of vanilla bean, along with a tablespoon or so of heavy-toast
oak chips from the wine-making store.

I use the white oak for woody, charred flavor, the toasted chips for
extra color, and the rest for flavor complexity. I don't think you can
get the right color or taste without actual charred wood

Shake the jar once a week, every week for at least 6 months.

Hmm, maybe calculate how many jars you go through in 6 months, mix up
that many, and taste as you go along (keep tasting notes). I guarantee
the last jar will be the best!!   ;-))

DC

I use charred oak chunks.

chunks are about the size of your thumb, length and width.

charred with a plumbers torch till its black all over.

2 in each quart jar gives a tan color, 3 or 4 will darken it quite a
bit.

but the darker, the more oaky the flavor is.

2 is usually my preference.

leave it soaking 3 or 4 months. then filter thru a coffee filter.


cary




--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Eyre" <meyre@...>
wrote:
>
> So, I'm already on the road of experimentation with toasted oak
for my
> purposes here at home... but I'm having issues with color and
flavor
> still. I'm looking to emulate the dark-ish color of my Eagle Rare
10
> year bourbon, basically, and sorta get near that flavor too, if
not even
> a bit more so. I'm got a few thumb sized chunks of white oak in the
> bottle with 750mL of 47% corn spirit now, and it's definitely a
good
> *tan* color, but hardly noticeable when you pour it into a glass.
I've
> got the oak toasted at 450 degrees for 2.5 hours. It's dark colored
> wood! Where am I missing out here? Is it a time thing? I've only
had it
> in there a week now.. does it really take that long for color
formation?
> Do I need more wood, is all? Darker still? I tried something
different
> this time by diluting to working strength and *then* putting the
wood
> in... which is something I didn't do on the other tests I've done,
but
> they didn't get any darker than this one is right now after several
> weeks. Something else I'm not taking into consideration?
>
> Mike
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "boe_didley" <boe_didley@...>
wrote:

> Is there anyone in the UK that knows of some sources of copper tubing
> and fittings? It seems i can only order 3metres of 75mm tubing at
> £48+VAT per metre. Only needing about 30cm is a pain. I suppose i
> could build lots of stills!?!?!

Try checking out this link for your tube, it's 54mm/2"

http://www.bes.ltd.uk/nav_graf/frames_cat.htm

If you need any 54mm yorkshire equals i just MAY be getting some in a
day or so, drop me a line.