Hello Sacker,
Actually, most use internal heating elements. Hot plates are fine,
but, you have to disable the thermostate so you get constant, steady
heat. Do not attemp this unless you are a bit of a sparky
(electriction). Many still use propane, it's easy, fast, easily
controlable, and potentially disatrous (would you put a pot of
gasoline on top of a fire and bring it to a boil?). I used to use
propane for a while, then I picked up a 1000 watt hot plate. Takes
longer to bring to a boil, but I feel (alittle) safer. If your
running a pot still, propane is an option, if your running a LM
(liquid Management), then it's pretty much out of the question
because the product is coming out hot and fumes could be floating
around. Good luck.
Tip one, Morgan


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sackerbill1" <jsshort1@n...>
wrote:
>
> OK is it really safe to use open flame to cook the mash or do the
> majority use electric hotplates?
>

I was e-mailed by a fellow member concerning how to create a pre-ban
absinthe, so here it is:

First of all I only have two batch stills. Ones made of borosilicate
glass with a one liter capacity in the receiver. The other is a
portuguese alembic with a 2.75 capacity. Both will create fine
absinthes. I like the borosilicate glass, because I can see
everything thats going on. Make sure in any still you use, that you
have a thermometer mounted in the still head to record vapour
temperatures.

The first step I take is to make grape spirits. Get about two liters
40 proof moderately priced brandy. With my stills I can get it to 85%
with two distillations. This step is important because the essential
oils we want to incorporate with the maceration will not infuse in
the alcohol with a percentage lower than 75%. Also were going to add
about 500ml distilled water to the charge in the still during
distillation, so after distillation you should be right about 68% or
higher, what pre-ban absinthe was marketed as.

Resources for herbs are many, however I recommend the freshest you
can get, which would be richters.com. However the elusive Artemisia
pontica[Roman wormwood] in its cut and sifted form can only be got by
one source that I know of which is cascade herbal supply, the website
for this is feeverte.com, under brewing resources.

Here is a recipe for one liter of suisse verte absinthe, you can do
the math for other volumes. All herbs are grinded in a coffee mill to
create more surface are for the alcohol to work on.

Artemisia absinthium, wormwood foliage and flowers, 25 to 30g
Pimpinella anisum, anise seed 45 to 50g
Foeniculum vulgare azoricum, florence fennel seed, 45 to 50g

These herbs are for the first maceration and subsequent distillation.

The herbs for the coloring or what makes it a verte absinthe are as
follows.

Artemisia pontica, roman wormwood foliage and flowers, 10g
Hyssopus officinalis, hyssop foliage, 10g
Melissa officinalis, lemon balm foliage, 5g

For this recipe were going to use 75cl of our 85% grape spirits, put
the grape spirits and your ground herbs for the distillation part in
your still or mother flask. Let macerate for twelve to twenty four
hours. Twelve hours is better. Leave the herbs in your mother flask,
or still during the distillation. If your still bumps, putting in a
couple of boiling stones or a couple of pieces of broken crockery
will help immensely, also add about 500ml of distilled water, and set
on your heat source. Water on in the condenser at 60c, distill until
you reach about 82c, and change the receiver. A couple of different
receivers during the process is advisable. Keep dumping the clear
runnings in you first receiver, around the mid 90s in C, your going
to notice the stream slowing down, be watchful for the faints around
now, which you will know when the distillate starts turning milky.
Stop the distillation here, and avoid the faints mixing with the
clear runnings. Let the distillate cool some what and grind your
coloring herbs. Add the herbs to your clear runnings, and put back on
your heat source. You want to heat your coloring herbs, but never to
the boiling point, when you can no longer hold your hand to the head
of the still take it off and let cool, filter, and bottle.

This absinthe is still raw but drinkable, it should taste like
medicine. Let it age for a couple of weeks to a month. Its definetley
an aquired taste. After a month or so its ready for drinking, and
should be diluted with water at a 1 to 4 ratio with a cube or two of
sugar. It should turn cloudy greenish white upon addition of water,
and have a very distinctive nose and mouthfeel. Keep in a green or
colored bottle or else the chlorophyll will oxidize out. Hope this
helps.

Trich

Thanks to all that gave comments. I do have a reflux still so I think
I'm gonna go with a hotplate. Does anyone have any recommendations for
a good hotplate at a good price?

Thanks

This is a reply to Sam's dilution question.  Yes, it is as easy as
you say below to cut the proof in half by doubling the solution
volume.

I got stuck trying to follow Rob's formula, but I'm sure it works.
The basic dilution formula is:

m1 x v1 = m2 x v2

Where m is concentration (you could use proof or % alcohol) and v is
volume.  This is really quite simple and I'll give you an example.
You may find it just as easy to get a high school kid to do the
calculation for you.

m1 is the starting concentration and v1 is the starting volume.  m2
is the final concentration and v2 is the final volume.  You will
always know three of these numbers and you solve for the fourth one.

Let's say your still puts out a liter of 90% alcohol and you want to
end up with 40% alcohol.  The above equation will look like this:

(90%) x (1 liter) = (40%) x v2

Divide both sides of the equation by 40% and it looks like this:

2.25 liters = v2

Here's the tricky part.  The final volume needs to be 2.25 liters
and your starting with one liter already, so you add 1.25 liters of
water to end up with 2.25 liters of 40% alcohol.  v2 is the FINAL
volume.  If you make the mistake of adding 2.25 liters of water
you'll end up with way less than 40% alcohol.

I know most people struggle with math, but the above formula will
always give you the measurement that you need.

Sam, notice that if you add one liter of water to the one liter of
90% alcohol in the above example, when you solve for v2 you will
come up with 45% alcohol.  Exactly half, as you suggested.

Glen






--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Sam Thomas
<bob_the_borg@y...> wrote:
>
> Is it as simple as taking... say a quart of 180  proof spirits and
adding a quart of distilled water to produce 90 proof  product?
Does it work like that?
>

This is a reply to Sam's dilution question.  Yes, it is as easy as
you say below to cut the proof in half by doubling the solution
volume.

I got stuck trying to follow Rob's formula, but I'm sure it works.
The basic dilution formula is:

m1 x v1 = m2 x v2

Where m is concentration (you could use proof or % alcohol) and v is
volume.  This is really quite simple and I'll give you an example.
You may find it just as easy to get a high school kid to do the
calculation for you.

m1 is the starting concentration and v1 is the starting volume.  m2
is the final concentration and v2 is the final volume.  You will
always know three of these numbers and you solve for the fourth one.

Let's say your still puts out a liter of 90% alcohol and you want to
end up with 40% alcohol.  The above equation will look like this:

(90%) x (1 liter) = (40%) x v2

Divide both sides of the equation by 40% and it looks like this:

2.25 liters = v2

Here's the tricky part.  The final volume needs to be 2.25 liters
and your starting with one liter already, so you add 1.25 liters of
water to end up with 2.25 liters of 40% alcohol.  v2 is the FINAL
volume.  If you make the mistake of adding 2.25 liters of water
you'll end up with way less than 40% alcohol.

I know most people struggle with math, but the above formula will
always give you the measurement that you need.

Sam, notice that if you add one liter of water to the one liter of
90% alcohol in the above example, when you solve for v2 you will
come up with 45% alcohol.  Exactly half, as you suggested.

Glen






--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Sam Thomas
<bob_the_borg@y...> wrote:
>
> Is it as simple as taking... say a quart of 180  proof spirits and
adding a quart of distilled water to produce 90 proof  product?
Does it work like that?
>

Sorry, my last paragraph should have read:

"Sam, notice that if you add one liter of water to the one liter of
90% alcohol in the above example, when you solve for m2 you will
come up with 45% alcohol.  Exactly half, as you suggested."

45 sounds close enough for me.

Glen <yonagy@...> wrote:          Sorry, my last paragraph should have
read:

   "Sam, notice that if you add one liter of water to the one liter of
   90% alcohol in the above example, when you solve for m2 you will
   come up with 45% alcohol.  Exactly half, as you suggested."






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm about to do a wash using Eight kg of dried malt which I've done before but
forgot to note whether I boiled the wash before adding the enzyme and yeast as I
do with beer.  What does everyone else do?  And, don't forget to make thorough
notes or you will be forced to ask foolish questions like this one!!   Blanikdog





"Most of the troubles of the world are caused by human beings". (Shakyamuni
Buddha)

SOARING, SAILING AND SKYDIVING web page
http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/cloudbase/
IRC server tessnet.cx


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Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced distillers and
am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Let's see some pictures of it.  Every tool has a function.


-----Original Message-----
From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of sonum norbu
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 12:37 AM
To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [new_distillers] Advanced Distillers


Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced distillers and
am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog

Not bad but a little incorrect. First off as an absinthe-tuer for
many many years I am about to embark upon making my first batch this
week. The site Feeverte.com is excellent but does not have a link to
cascade supply only an email and they no longer carry petit
wormwood, nor does anyone else. I have not yet aquired it but plan
on growing this coming year. If anyone else knows where to get Petit
(Roman) wormwood as a dried herb please let me and everyone else on
this forum know. I plan on making my absinthe and letting it be
until I can grow or find some Roman Wormwood. Secondly Florence
Fennel is Foeniculum dulce not the one mentioned in this article.
Good Luck to all. Also you should be using an indirect heat source
so as to not burn or scorch the herbs in the boiler, most common
place is using a double boiler.


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "trich_peru"
<trich_peru@y...> wrote:
>
> I was e-mailed by a fellow member concerning how to create a pre-
ban
> absinthe, so here it is:
>
> First of all I only have two batch stills. Ones made of
borosilicate
> glass with a one liter capacity in the receiver. The other is a
> portuguese alembic with a 2.75 capacity. Both will create fine
> absinthes. I like the borosilicate glass, because I can see
> everything thats going on. Make sure in any still you use, that
you
> have a thermometer mounted in the still head to record vapour
> temperatures.
>
> The first step I take is to make grape spirits. Get about two
liters
> 40 proof moderately priced brandy. With my stills I can get it to
85%
> with two distillations. This step is important because the
essential
> oils we want to incorporate with the maceration will not infuse in
> the alcohol with a percentage lower than 75%. Also were going to
add
> about 500ml distilled water to the charge in the still during
> distillation, so after distillation you should be right about 68%
or
> higher, what pre-ban absinthe was marketed as.
>
> Resources for herbs are many, however I recommend the freshest you
> can get, which would be richters.com. However the elusive
Artemisia
> pontica[Roman wormwood] in its cut and sifted form can only be got
by
> one source that I know of which is cascade herbal supply, the
website
> for this is feeverte.com, under brewing resources.
>
> Here is a recipe for one liter of suisse verte absinthe, you can
do
> the math for other volumes. All herbs are grinded in a coffee mill
to
> create more surface are for the alcohol to work on.
>
> Artemisia absinthium, wormwood foliage and flowers, 25 to 30g
> Pimpinella anisum, anise seed 45 to 50g
> Foeniculum vulgare azoricum, florence fennel seed, 45 to 50g
>
> These herbs are for the first maceration and subsequent
distillation.
>
> The herbs for the coloring or what makes it a verte absinthe are
as
> follows.
>
> Artemisia pontica, roman wormwood foliage and flowers, 10g
> Hyssopus officinalis, hyssop foliage, 10g
> Melissa officinalis, lemon balm foliage, 5g
>
> For this recipe were going to use 75cl of our 85% grape spirits,
put
> the grape spirits and your ground herbs for the distillation part
in
> your still or mother flask. Let macerate for twelve to twenty four
> hours. Twelve hours is better. Leave the herbs in your mother
flask,
> or still during the distillation. If your still bumps, putting in
a
> couple of boiling stones or a couple of pieces of broken crockery
> will help immensely, also add about 500ml of distilled water, and
set
> on your heat source. Water on in the condenser at 60c, distill
until
> you reach about 82c, and change the receiver. A couple of
different
> receivers during the process is advisable. Keep dumping the clear
> runnings in you first receiver, around the mid 90s in C, your
going
> to notice the stream slowing down, be watchful for the faints
around
> now, which you will know when the distillate starts turning milky.
> Stop the distillation here, and avoid the faints mixing with the
> clear runnings. Let the distillate cool some what and grind your
> coloring herbs. Add the herbs to your clear runnings, and put back
on
> your heat source. You want to heat your coloring herbs, but never
to
> the boiling point, when you can no longer hold your hand to the
head
> of the still take it off and let cool, filter, and bottle.
>
> This absinthe is still raw but drinkable, it should taste like
> medicine. Let it age for a couple of weeks to a month. Its
definetley
> an aquired taste. After a month or so its ready for drinking, and
> should be diluted with water at a 1 to 4 ratio with a cube or two
of
> sugar. It should turn cloudy greenish white upon addition of
water,
> and have a very distinctive nose and mouthfeel. Keep in a green or
> colored bottle or else the chlorophyll will oxidize out. Hope this
> helps.
>
> Trich
>

I think you may be right. Its either the wheat or the yeast.

Had a look for flaked wheat and other brands of buscuits and they
all contain salt. One brand of biscuits Organic Vita Brits was 99%
wheat and salt. The flaked wheat such as 'wheaties' has all sorts of
additives.

The gravity was 1006 on the last batch which was what was required
in the recipe.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Robert Thomas
<whosbrewing@y...> wrote:
>
> Hi hypodyne,
> you've got two new variables in the recipe:
> 1. the biscuits
> 2. you.
> Since you can't miraculously turn into an expert the only thing to
do
> is use breakfast wheat. I'm not suggesting you do this large
scale, as
> you are trying to go affordable. However, if you do the recipe on a
> small scale with proper flaked wheat AND IT WORKS, then you have to
> conclude that the biscuits are the problem. If it doesn't work,
then
> you are not doing something right.
> by "work" I mean you get a reasonable starting gravity and a
reasonable
> finishing one during fermentation (I guess the recipe tells you
what to
> expect).
> If, when you've done that, the biscuits are the problem, then you
have
> two possibilities:
> 1. find a cheap source of flaked wheat (animal feed? local baker?)
> 2. crush up the biscuits and rinse with water to remove the salt
and
> quite likely sodium or potassium propionate preservative: then
give it
> a go. Don't do this before you do a minirun with proper wheat, as
if it
> fails you still don't know if it's you or the biscuits.
> Hope that helps,
> Cheers,
> Rob.
>
>
> --- hypodyne <hypodyne@y...> wrote:
>
> > I can do sugar washes and I dont like the quality.
> >
> > I dont have the exact wheat from that company as I am not in the
US.
> >
> > I am using the flaked wheat that is in biscuit form. If I use
flaked
> > wheat as in breakfast cereal then the cost will be twice that of
a
> > bottle of vodka.
> >
> > Yes I am following the recipe pretty much to the letter, as
close as
> > I can get anyway. Getting the PH spot on, measure the gravity,
> > Tempreture within +- a degree, etc.
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Robert Thomas
> > <whosbrewing@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi hypodyne,
> > > you won't find any better written recipe on the net
> > > (although for some reason your link didn't work for me
> > > this time. I have it on file).
> > > Make absolutely sure you are following it to the
> > > letter. You are definately using FLAKED wheat?
> > > feed/seed wheat is not a replacement, as it need so be
> > > gelatinised. The rooling/flaking process (between hot
> > > rollers) heats the starch up to gelatinise it. Raw
> > > wheat needs milling and then boiling to make the
> > > starch available. If you don't get a thick porridgy/
> > > wallpaper paste type mixture, you've got the wrong
> > > wheat.
> > > Also, dealing with wheat is a pain anyway. If it were
> > > my first attempt, I'd go for something easier like a
> > > sugar wash.
> > > Cheers,
> > > Rob.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- hypodyne <hypodyne@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Gday
> > > >
> > > > I have tried unsuccessfully for the 4th time to make
> > > > a wheat vodka
> > > > mash from this recipe
> > > > http://www.brewhaus.com/Wheat-Vodka-Recipe.pdf.
> > > >
> > > > Has anyone else got a wheat vodka recipe or point me
> > > > in the direction
> > > > of one. The recipes on Tony's site are a bit vague
> > > > for a beginner to
> > > > work from.
> > > >
> > > > A 40kg bag of wheat is $15 AU so would prefer it
> > > > from grain.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Rob.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Cheers,
> Rob.
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
>

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Robert Thomas
<whosbrewing@y...> wrote:
>
> Hi hypodyne,
> you won't find any better written recipe on the net
> (although for some reason your link didn't work for me
> this time. I have it on file).
> Make absolutely sure you are following it to the
> letter. You are definately using FLAKED wheat?
> feed/seed wheat is not a replacement, as it need so be
> gelatinised. The rooling/flaking process (between hot
> rollers) heats the starch up to gelatinise it. Raw
> wheat needs milling and then boiling to make the
> starch available. If you don't get a thick porridgy/
> wallpaper paste type mixture, you've got the wrong
> wheat.

Well I can crush and boil wheat. Not sure how, but how hard can it
be. For enzymes I could malt my own wheat from the same wheat or use
the malted barley.

See most of the recipes on Tony's site use bakers yeast. Need to add
a nutrient as well. Buying special yeast at 10 bucks a packet is not
really doing it for me.

> Also, dealing with wheat is a pain anyway. If it were
> my first attempt, I'd go for something easier like a
> sugar wash.
> Cheers,
> Rob.
>
>
> --- hypodyne <hypodyne@y...> wrote:
>
> > Gday
> >
> > I have tried unsuccessfully for the 4th time to make
> > a wheat vodka
> > mash from this recipe
> > http://www.brewhaus.com/Wheat-Vodka-Recipe.pdf.
> >
> > Has anyone else got a wheat vodka recipe or point me
> > in the direction
> > of one. The recipes on Tony's site are a bit vague
> > for a beginner to
> > work from.
> >
> > A 40kg bag of wheat is $15 AU so would prefer it
> > from grain.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Cheers,
> Rob.
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

Yes, but does your ball tearer still tear balls??

Cheers,
Lindsay.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sonum norbu" <blanik@o...> wrote:
>
> Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced distillers and
> am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> Surf the Web in a faster, safer and easier way:
> Download Opera 8 at http://www.opera.com
>
> Powered by Outblaze
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I have not ordered a. pontica from cascade herbal supply in some time. How did
you find out they no longer carry it? After buying from them I realized it was
much easier to grow it and harvest it myself.

I'm not the best in herbal nomenclature, names and subspecies being named, and
switched  all the time. I got the name from richters.com, where I purchase all
the herbs for absinthe, excepting a. absinthium, and a. pontica, which I grow
myself.

As far as scorching my herbs, I know I should be using some kind of double
boiler still, or a cordial still, however I've never had any problem with
burning my herbs with the still capacities I use.

Trich


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cartierusm2004" <htcustom@h...> wrote:
>
> Not bad but a little incorrect. First off as an absinthe-tuer for
> many many years I am about to embark upon making my first batch this
> week. The site Feeverte.com is excellent but does not have a link to
> cascade supply only an email and they no longer carry petit
> wormwood, nor does anyone else. I have not yet aquired it but plan
> on growing this coming year. If anyone else knows where to get Petit
> (Roman) wormwood as a dried herb please let me and everyone else on
> this forum know. I plan on making my absinthe and letting it be
> until I can grow or find some Roman Wormwood. Secondly Florence
> Fennel is Foeniculum dulce not the one mentioned in this article.
> Good Luck to all. Also you should be using an indirect heat source
> so as to not burn or scorch the herbs in the boiler, most common
> place is using a double boiler.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "trich_peru"
> trich_peru@y... wrote:
> >
> > I was e-mailed by a fellow member concerning how to create a pre-
> ban
> > absinthe, so here it is:
> >
> > First of all I only have two batch stills. Ones made of
> borosilicate
> > glass with a one liter capacity in the receiver. The other is a
> > portuguese alembic with a 2.75 capacity. Both will create fine
> > absinthes. I like the borosilicate glass, because I can see
> > everything thats going on. Make sure in any still you use, that
> you
> > have a thermometer mounted in the still head to record vapour
> > temperatures.
> >
> > The first step I take is to make grape spirits. Get about two
> liters
> > 40 proof moderately priced brandy. With my stills I can get it to
> 85%
> > with two distillations. This step is important because the
> essential
> > oils we want to incorporate with the maceration will not infuse in
> > the alcohol with a percentage lower than 75%. Also were going to
> add
> > about 500ml distilled water to the charge in the still during
> > distillation, so after distillation you should be right about 68%
> or
> > higher, what pre-ban absinthe was marketed as.
> >
> > Resources for herbs are many, however I recommend the freshest you
> > can get, which would be richters.com. However the elusive
> Artemisia
> > pontica[Roman wormwood] in its cut and sifted form can only be got
> by
> > one source that I know of which is cascade herbal supply, the
> website
> > for this is feeverte.com, under brewing resources.
> >
> > Here is a recipe for one liter of suisse verte absinthe, you can
> do
> > the math for other volumes. All herbs are grinded in a coffee mill
> to
> > create more surface are for the alcohol to work on.
> >
> > Artemisia absinthium, wormwood foliage and flowers, 25 to 30g
> > Pimpinella anisum, anise seed 45 to 50g
> > Foeniculum vulgare azoricum, florence fennel seed, 45 to 50g
> >
> > These herbs are for the first maceration and subsequent
> distillation.
> >
> > The herbs for the coloring or what makes it a verte absinthe are
> as
> > follows.
> >
> > Artemisia pontica, roman wormwood foliage and flowers, 10g
> > Hyssopus officinalis, hyssop foliage, 10g
> > Melissa officinalis, lemon balm foliage, 5g
> >
> > For this recipe were going to use 75cl of our 85% grape spirits,
> put
> > the grape spirits and your ground herbs for the distillation part
> in
> > your still or mother flask. Let macerate for twelve to twenty four
> > hours. Twelve hours is better. Leave the herbs in your mother
> flask,
> > or still during the distillation. If your still bumps, putting in
> a
> > couple of boiling stones or a couple of pieces of broken crockery
> > will help immensely, also add about 500ml of distilled water, and
> set
> > on your heat source. Water on in the condenser at 60c, distill
> until
> > you reach about 82c, and change the receiver. A couple of
> different
> > receivers during the process is advisable. Keep dumping the clear
> > runnings in you first receiver, around the mid 90s in C, your
> going
> > to notice the stream slowing down, be watchful for the faints
> around
> > now, which you will know when the distillate starts turning milky.
> > Stop the distillation here, and avoid the faints mixing with the
> > clear runnings. Let the distillate cool some what and grind your
> > coloring herbs. Add the herbs to your clear runnings, and put back
> on
> > your heat source. You want to heat your coloring herbs, but never
> to
> > the boiling point, when you can no longer hold your hand to the
> head
> > of the still take it off and let cool, filter, and bottle.
> >
> > This absinthe is still raw but drinkable, it should taste like
> > medicine. Let it age for a couple of weeks to a month. Its
> definetley
> > an aquired taste. After a month or so its ready for drinking, and
> > should be diluted with water at a 1 to 4 ratio with a cube or two
> of
> > sugar. It should turn cloudy greenish white upon addition of
> water,
> > and have a very distinctive nose and mouthfeel. Keep in a green or
> > colored bottle or else the chlorophyll will oxidize out. Hope this
> > helps.
> >
> > Trich
> >
>

>   As far as scorching my herbs, I know I should be using some kind of double
> boiler still, or a cordial still, however I've never had any problem with
> burning my herbs with the still capacities I use.

aren't you straining out the marc (spent herbs) before distilling the
macerate?  If so, what exactly would be scorching?
--
jim

What's this advanced distillers? Another Yahoo newsgroup?

Barra

> Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced distillers and
> am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog

In absinthe distillation the herbs are left in the charge of the
still, that is why you use a double boiler, cordial still, so your
herbs never come in contact with direct heat.

Trich


-- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, jim mcdonald <multiflorum@g...>
wrote:
>
> >   As far as scorching my herbs, I know I should be using some
kind of double
> > boiler still, or a cordial still, however I've never had any
problem with
> > burning my herbs with the still capacities I use.
>
> aren't you straining out the marc (spent herbs) before distilling
the
> macerate?  If so, what exactly would be scorching?
> --
> jim
>

>   In absinthe distillation the herbs are left in the charge of the
>   still, that is why you use a double boiler, cordial still, so your
>   herbs never come in contact with direct heat.

curious why that would be.  I'm an herbalist, and know a quite a bit
about the particulars of extraction and solvency of various herb's
constituents.  All of the volatiles from the herbs infused in the
alcohol are rather quickly extracted.  Leaving the marc in the
tincture while its being distilled will result in the extraction of
different compounds (due to the heating), and the breakdown of some of
the compounds (also due to the heat)... it's kind've like a soxhlet
extraction, but the volatiles are being seperated from the rest of the
extraction, and the other compounds will not distill over into your
final product.

Do you know that there's a reason for this other than "that was what
they used to do?"  I'd be interested.

Also, of note:  the bright green color of traditional absinthe comes
from using some fresh (as in "not dried") herbs durnig the coloring.
When old recipes call for, "green anise", for example, that's not a
kind of anise, that's a reference to it being fresh.  In fresh plants,
the chlorophyl is extracted almost immediately in an alcoholic
menstrum.

This is of note, as well, because an ounce of green anise is not the
same quantity as an ounce of dried anise.
--
jim

Yes.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/

Cheers,
Lindsay.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Barra" <barra64@z...> wrote:
>
> What's this advanced distillers? Another Yahoo newsgroup?
>
> Barra
>
> > Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced
distillers and
> > am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog
>

No your not supposed to strain out the herbs before distilling you are
supposed to leave them in, hence the double boiler.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, jim mcdonald <multiflorum@g...>
wrote:
>
> >   As far as scorching my herbs, I know I should be using some kind
of double
> > boiler still, or a cordial still, however I've never had any
problem with
> > burning my herbs with the still capacities I use.
>
> aren't you straining out the marc (spent herbs) before distilling the
> macerate?  If so, what exactly would be scorching?
> --
> jim
>

Hi, wanted to share some info and maybe get some?  I'm
restoring a 80 gal still from the early 1800's and
have to build the top also.

    I've made a lot of contacts and heard a lot of
advice....(?) but after several months, and some false
starts, we're moving on...

    I found a man who does aircraft restoration,
(shaped body parts) and he has agreed to help -using
his planthing hammer, and english wheel...
    The top (after much research), is to be a ball
approx twenty inches that fits into a 15inch neck and
will have an eight inch outlet, to receive a swan
neck/elephant truck about three feet long.
    Just got the copper in today...040. ga, SOFT
copper. and hope to get it to him tommorrow.   the
three x 8 foot sheet was $275.00
    I plan on using a 6" plastic trap, cutting it
length wise and mounting it in plaster to get the
rough shape of the top neck turn...

    as far as the rest of the diminishing tube I think
we can just wing it...can't imagine the oldsters had
much more to work with.

    One guy suggested using a kids ball from Wally
world, and making a plaster/or concrete mould (Lined
with Leather?) to hammer out the rough shape for the
ball...it would still be in three pieces
-riveted...-and soldered...

    OK I've babbled on, but thought you'd like some
input...
guess I might build a cardboard mock up to see how
pleasant the dimensions look before jumping it too
hard...
    Wishing you well and good luck, hope you ENJOY the
travel on this one...I certainly have.... Please let
me know how your making out, as I will be happy to do
the same....

Thom....western Pa, as marshal7002@...










--- cartierusm2004 <htcustom@...> wrote:

> Thanks a lot. I think I might make quarter sections
> or eighth
> sections and mig weld them together and make a nice
> large bead for
> decoration and then weld a bottom plate on. It will
> sort of look
> like a pumpkin. It will definately have a bottom
> chamber to act as a
> double boiler.
>
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry"
> <gnikomson2000@y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com,
> "cartierusm2004"
> > <htcustom@h...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Howdy, I've got quite a few still already all
> home built and
> have
> > kegs
> > > as boiler but I wanted to make a nice gooseneck
> still all from
> > copper.
> > > Has anyone hammered out their own copper still?
> If so how would
> I
> > go
> > > about it. I have all the shop tools and build
> custom choppers
> from
> > > scratch(frames and tins from scracth), so I
> don't really need
> the
> > > skill just the instuction. Do I hammer it out
> and weld panels
> > > together? Just wondering how the professional
> still builders
> start
> > > out. Incidently I've asked before if you can
> weld stainless to
> > copper,
> > > and now wonder can copper be welded to copper
> with a MIG? If so
> is
> > it
> > > as simple as the correct wire and gas, if so
> which gas and wire?
> > Thanks
> > >
> > > P.S. This is not a project that's being done as
> a cost issue,
> it's
> > > purely a challenge situation.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Simple tinsmithing techniques work best.   Use
> sheet copper, tin
> the
> > joint tongue, double-folded lap joints, apply
> heated soldering
> iron
> > to seal as a sweated joint, strengthen with
> additional silver-
> solder
> > as a capillary joint if necessary.  Just like
> making the old-style
> > bread-baking tins, except you're using sheet
> copper, not tinplate.
> >
> > If you want to go the modern MIG etc. route, this
> may be useful...
> >
>
http://www.brazing.com/techguide/procedures/copper_welding.asp
> >
> >
> > Slainte!
> > regards Harry
> > Moderator
> >
>
>
>
>
>




__________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cartierusm2004"
<htcustom@h...> wrote:
>
> No your not supposed to strain out the herbs before distilling you
are
> supposed to leave them in, hence the double boiler.



There is much discussion in the archives on absinthe.  Go here...
http://www.taet.com.au/distillers.nsf
Click on "By Author" left of screen.
Enter "absinthe" (without quotes) in the search box.
194 hits.  That will get you started.


Slainte!
regards Harry
Moderator

Hello again, Sacker,
I bought mine at wally world. It's a single burner unit, 1000 or 1100
watts, I'm not sure which. Cost me about 10 usd. After heat loss (non-
insulated boiler, external heat source, ect.) works out to about 800
watts to the boiler. Slow, but makes good hooch. Again, you have to
bypass the thermostate inside ( call your sparky friend if you feel
unsure about doing it yourself). It's a 110 volt unit. Anougther way to
go is to salvage a burner out of an old electric stove, but you have to
build a sturdy tray for the boiler, isolated from the burner,
incorporating the reostate, yada yada yada. This would allow a quick
boil up, then you could turn it down to a slower boil. But, I babble.
You get the idea. Good luck.
Tip one, Morgan


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sackerbill1" <jsshort1@n...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks to all that gave comments. I do have a reflux still so I think
> I'm gonna go with a hotplate. Does anyone have any recommendations
for
> a good hotplate at a good price?
>
> Thanks
>

I am making straight sugar grain mash and wish to flavor it with
apples and I have even heard of peppermint being a fovorite in the
area. I am looking for help with this.I know I need to flavor it after
I run the wash but how do I do it and to what measurment so I don't
ruin the batch.  help..

I sure does!!!! :) blanikdog

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: "Lindsay Williams"
   To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Advanced Distillers
   Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 09:51:51 -0000

Yes, but does your ball tearer still tear balls??

Cheers,
Lindsay.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sonum norbu" <blanik@o...> wrote:
>
> Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced distillers and
> am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> Surf the Web in a faster, safer and easier way:
> Download Opera 8 at http://www.opera.com
>
> Powered by Outblaze
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org





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I think it is but I'm not really sure.

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Barra
   To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Advanced Distillers
   Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 10:21:25 +0100

What's this advanced distillers? Another Yahoo newsgroup?

Barra

> Jesus, I just had a look at some of the pics in Advanced distillers and
> am sooooo embarressed by my old ball-tearer still. blanikdog






New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org




------------------------------------------------------------------------

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

   *  Visit your group "new_distillers" on the web.

   *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

   *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


------------------------------------------------------------------------



"Most of the troubles of the world are caused by human beings". (Shakyamuni
Buddha)

SOARING, SAILING AND SKYDIVING web page
http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/cloudbase/
IRC server tessnet.cx

--
_______________________________________________
Surf the Web in a faster, safer and easier way:
Download Opera 8 at http://www.opera.com

Powered by Outblaze


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, mr done <marshal7002@y...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, wanted to share some info and maybe get some?  I'm
> restoring a 80 gal still from the early 1800's and
> have to build the top also.
>
>    I've made a lot of contacts and heard a lot of
> advice....(?) but after several months, and some false
> starts, we're moving on...
>
>    I found a man who does aircraft restoration,
> (shaped body parts) and he has agreed to help -using
> his planthing hammer, and english wheel...
>    The top (after much research), is to be a ball
> approx twenty inches that fits into a 15inch neck and
> will have an eight inch outlet, to receive a swan
> neck/elephant truck about three feet long.
>    Just got the copper in today...040. ga, SOFT
> copper. and hope to get it to him tommorrow.   the
> three x 8 foot sheet was $275.00
>    I plan on using a 6" plastic trap, cutting it
> length wise and mounting it in plaster to get the
> rough shape of the top neck turn...
>
>    as far as the rest of the diminishing tube I think
> we can just wing it...can't imagine the oldsters had
> much more to work with.
>
>    One guy suggested using a kids ball from Wally
> world, and making a plaster/or concrete mould (Lined
> with Leather?) to hammer out the rough shape for the
> ball...it would still be in three pieces
> -riveted...-and soldered...
>
>    OK I've babbled on, but thought you'd like some
> input...
> guess I might build a cardboard mock up to see how
> pleasant the dimensions look before jumping it too
> hard...
>    Wishing you well and good luck, hope you ENJOY the
> travel on this one...I certainly have.... Please let
> me know how your making out, as I will be happy to do
> the same....
>
> Thom....western Pa, as marshal7002@y...




Hi Thom,
I'm pleased to see you're making progress.  It's a tad bigger
project than you first imagined, I'll wager.  ;-)
But think of the rewards!  The restoration story itself should be
worth reading (can I have 1st dibs on that?).  ;-)

I said once before you'd need to engage someone skilled it
coppercraft or similar, hence the English Wheel suggestion.  If you
want to stay with authenticity, you really need to look at this
project from a period perspective.  You'll need the tools and
techniques of the era, otherwise the project becomes somewhat less
in value.  What you're striving for is authentic replication.  There
is a book available from several sources called "The Art of
Coppersmithing", by John Fuller, Sr.. 327 Pages.  The blurb...


...Softbound. Now largely abandoned in favor of other materials,
copper was widely used in the last century for everything from the
making of kitchen utensils to roofing to plumbing materials.
Originally published in 1893, this work by John Fuller, Sr., who was
then one of the leading authorities in the copper industry,
addresses every aspect of this important metal. Beginning with an
historical overview of the use of copper, the author proceeds to a
review of ancient and modern methods of mining. Subsequent chapters
trace the development of copper working by smiths from the earliest
times to the then-modern era. In addition to the voluminous
information about hand work (including a thorough review of the
tools of the trade), there is a detailed overview of the use of
copper in every industry from brewing to ship building. Nearly 500
superb Victorian engravings accent this classic work. Whether you
are a modern metallurgist or a latter-day smith, this book will
surely enlighten and entertain. All ASTRAGAL PRESS Books Now 20% Off
Retail!...Now Just $22.00 (Regular Price: $27.50) (BK-0118)...

That one is available here... http://mjdtools.com/books/125383.htm
---------------------------------------

There is a version available on CD with 13 other metalworking titles
from The Sheetmetalworking Shop for a similar price...
http://tinyurl.com/d5o83
---------------------------------------

Just to give you an idea what's in the book, I have Chapter 2
online...
http://tinyurl.com/7ug4s

NOTICE:  I have no affiliation with any book vendor nor do I receive
any monetary or "in kind" reward.  I recommend this material purely
on the assumption that it may be suitable for the task at hand.  At
the very least it will be a nice read over a glass or two.


Slainte!
regards Harry
Moderator

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sonum norbu" <blanik@o...>
wrote:
>
> I think it is but I'm not really sure.



It's the partner site to this one.  We try to have 2 separate forums
for newbies & advanced distillers.  That way we can target people's
needs better.  Of course there's no reason why someone can't be a
member of both, just be mindful of the slight differences in the
dialog and etiquette.


Slainte!
regards Harry
Moderator

(BTW, I Mod both, much to the horror of some ;)   )

--- Harry <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:

> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sonum norbu" <blanik@o...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I think it is but I'm not really sure.

That's sweet, like sophomores talking about the seniors' classrooms!
Trust me, there's idiots on that group as well!
Like me!
Cheers,
Rob.

>
>
>
> It's the partner site to this one.  We try to have 2 separate forums
> for newbies & advanced distillers.  That way we can target people's
> needs better.  Of course there's no reason why someone can't be a
> member of both, just be mindful of the slight differences in the
> dialog and etiquette.
>
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
> Moderator
>
> (BTW, I Mod both, much to the horror of some ;)   )
>
>
>
>


Cheers,
Rob.




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