> ty for the answer. I now understand that the only time that you can
> get an reliable mesurment is before any fermentation starts.

Not completely true. The amount of alcohol during fermentation is not very
high, and it will not influence the measurement very much. You can do
measurements during fermentation to see how everything is going, but the
lower the SG the more incorrect the measurement, but the max difference will
be no more than about 10%.

Rutger

I never learned to use mine rgat way while making wine 'cuz i just don't
care that much about a couple of percentage points where taste is more
important.  So I kind of went a different way..  I bought some 195proof raw
graiin spirits and did a reading on a sample.  Then added 10% water at a
time to get control readings.  Science often is not all that complex....
specially when craft  and art is the objective... .  Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rutger" <rutgerr@...>
To: <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: Is the scale on my hydrometer correct?


>
> > ty for the answer. I now understand that the only time that you can
> > get an reliable mesurment is before any fermentation starts.
>
> Not completely true. The amount of alcohol during fermentation is not very
> high, and it will not influence the measurement very much. You can do
> measurements during fermentation to see how everything is going, but the
> lower the SG the more incorrect the measurement, but the max difference
will
> be no more than about 10%.
>
> Rutger
>
>
>
> New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
> FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
>
> ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
> FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Ive got a recipe for Bourbon whiskey and it calls for cracked rye
(unmalted).  My question is, is this just the rye seed cracked?
Also where is a good place to find on the net a good place  to buy
rye.

Thanks Pat

Sorry, some of the guys who have responded before me know far more
than I.  However, as a newbee I recall making many mistakes about
using hydrometers for beer/wine and spirits.  Are you looking for a
finished %alch reading of spirit or are you just checking your
fermenting batch?  The beer/wine hydrometer works great for checking
a finished fermentation which should reduce in number from 1.10+ to
below 1.0 (correct my example?).  A totally different hydrometer is
needed for measuring %alc after distillation.  Just wanted to make
sure we were all on the same page this did not seem obvious as I
started out.

So starting with a higher specific gravity in the ferment and
reducing to .999 shows that alchol has been produced in the
fermentation process.  The begining specific gravity (before
fermentation) reading is a good estimate of the result alc% for
beer/wine but depends on ingredients (am I right guys?).  To measure
at .99 is an end reading this is just a means for knowing your
fermentation is done.  I just wait for the bubbling to stop...

Sorry if I read your question wrong, but it sounded like you were
looking for a actual %alc reading, you need a seprate spirits
hydrometer for this.

http://www.foodsubs.com/GrainRye.html
http://www.mngrain.com/rye.html

your local grocery store.  Look for rye flour used for baking. The
grain has already been rolled and milled.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "pwghrn" <pwghrn@y...> wrote:
> Ive got a recipe for Bourbon whiskey and it calls for cracked rye
> (unmalted).  My question is, is this just the rye seed cracked?
> Also where is a good place to find on the net a good place  to buy
> rye.
>
> Thanks Pat

I bought a hydrometer while away on holiday, 560 km to self
brew store.
It has specific gravity, potential alcohol, percent sugar.
the question, Is 0% percent sugar and 0% potential alcohol
supposed to
be equal to 1.000 S.G.?
If so how do you get the S.G. of .990 that I read about in
posts?
.990 = -1.25% potential alcohol
------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
The potential alcohol probably relates more to wine than
spirits, wine will have more unfermentable sugars and most
will stop at around 1.000 wheras spirit washes ( sugar
based ) should ideally have no unfermentable sugars. The
Potential scale is a guide when STARTING a wash/wine so that
sugar can be added untill the potentil % of your yeast is
reached. With wine you would soak the fruit in water to
dissolve the sugars within the fruit , read the scale on the
hydrometer relating to sugar per litre and then work out how
much sugar to add to achieve the alc% you require, normally
12 > 15 % for wine. A reading of .990 with 8kg of sugar in a
25 L wash should yeild around 17 > 18%. If you record your
SG before adding yeast ( after a THOROUGH stir ) then check
again after fermenting, take the difference and divide by 7.
36 ( have heard various figures but this seems to work out
about right) this should give yourAPROX alcohol content E.G
start at 1.090  (aprox 6  ks of sugar made up to
25L)......end at .990 you have a difference of 100,
100 divided by 7.36  gives aprox 13.5 % alc which is close
to the 14% that many turbos claim

Mark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

TY all for the help
the reason I was asking is that my wash had stuck for the second time.
The first was the first night i started the wash (8 kg to 25 lt water
with 8kg turbo) i decided that by following the directions and adding
all the sugar at one time was the problem.
My answer was red star active dry yeast from the store. I thought that
if there was already nutrients in the wash from first turbo adding
another turbo may turn product blue when distilled, and im cheep :).
also I was hoping that some of the turbo yeast survived and would revive.
Things were going good before I left for holiday. ( wash bubbling away
. temp of wash was 79* f.
while away i thought i would get a specific gravity  hydrometer to
check
the finished wash for sugar because of my messed up start.
Stall 2 was when I got home and my furnace had gone out.
temp indoors was 36*f, temp of wash 54*f. I warmed up the wash in the
bathtub to 60*f and got a S.G. of about 1.038. I then warmed it up to
84*f and waited nothing much seamed to happen for about 20 hours
but now there seems to be some action again, so I am hoping for a
better S.G. # .
If not should I distill this out and remix what is left to recover the
sugar? or are there other options like add more water (to lower alc.
content  add sugar and repitch yeast).

TY all for the help
the reason I was asking is that my wash had stuck for the
second time.
The first was the first night i started the wash (8 kg to 25
lt water
with 8kg turbo) i decided that by following the directions
and adding
all the sugar at one time was the problem.
My answer was red star active dry yeast from the store. I
thought that
if there was already nutrients in the wash from first turbo
adding
another turbo may turn product blue when distilled, and im
cheep :).
also I was hoping that some of the turbo yeast survived and
would revive.
Things were going good before I left for holiday. ( wash
bubbling away
. temp of wash was 79* f.
while away i thought i would get a specific gravity
hydrometer to
check
the finished wash for sugar because of my messed up start.
Stall 2 was when I got home and my furnace had gone out.
temp indoors was 36*f,(2.5C) temp of wash 54*f.(12C) I
warmed up the wash in the
bathtub to 60*f (16C) and got a S.G. of about 1.038.
........................................................

I too have had this problem, not with adding the sugar ALL
at first but with the heat dropping below 18C/65F when only
1/2 to 3/4 of the way thru fermenting. Even after adding
more heat the yeast was VERY sluggish, My assumption was
that the alcohol allready produced had "pickled" the dormant
yeast  making it more or less useless even after reheating,
perhaps too pissed to want to work any more :-)
The initial sticking was more than likely due to too much
heat either when the turbo was added or too much heat in the
first 24 hours, the 8KG turbos will add LOTS of heat
themselves in this time, I have had a barrel add 10C/50F to
itself because the room was too warm. Personally I try and
keep the 8KG Turbos UNDER 28C/82F and OVER 20C/68F.    I
have found the ideal   ( STRESS my finding only)    temp to
add the Turbo is around 23C/75F when ambient room temp is
around the same, start warmer in a cool room OR cooler in a
warm room. WWW.stillspirits.com have some handy info sheets
to download regarding Turbos.

Mark
............................................................
............................................................
............................

   I then warmed it up to
   84*f and waited nothing much seamed to happen for about 20
hours
   but now there seems to be some action again, so I am
hoping for a
   better S.G. # .
   If not should I distill this out and remix what is left to
recover the
   sugar? or are there other options like add more water (to
lower alc.
   content  add sugar and repitch yeast).



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You are correct Jim. I should have said Brandy. In fact, considering
the inferior product which I understand was carried for ship's stores
of rum, a chance at officer's brandy would probably be a further
incentive for an illicit sip. Thanks for the history. If you haven't
read them you might enjoy O'Brian's Master and Commander series of
historical Navy novels. TOM


--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jimpuchai" <puchai4@o...> wrote:
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "b4atf" <tom00leigh@h...>
> wrote:
> > Hey Jim, British sailors still occasionally refer to "having one on
> > the admiral" when they mean just having a drink. The way I heard
> it,
> > when Nelson died they filled his casket with rum to preserve it
> during
> > the voyage back to England. Sailors being insatiable, then as now,
> the
> > crew used straws to suck up a drink through a crack in the lid
> > whenever they got a chance. Apparently the casket was bone dry by
> the
> > time they got home. I heard the phrase several times while I was in
> > the Navy but only learned the origin later. TOM
> >
>
> Hello Tom,
>
> It seems there are many references to this practice in literature
> going back hundreds of years. Most seem to be a story device
> designed to shock when the innocent consumers eventually find a body
> in the barrel.
> In the case of Lord Nelson, it does seem to have a firm founding in
> truth. However, it appears as though it may have been brandy from
> ships stores that was used. The imperative being the need to return
> him for a state funeral, rather than the more normal sea burial.
>
> If you know London, travelling down Wimbledon Broadway away from the
> common, the road bends right to become Nelson road. This is actually
> the site of Nelsons estate, where he lived with Lady Hamilton. From
> here he had  his stouches with the Lords of the Admiralty, partly
> over his ability to command, and partly defending his unusual
> domestic arrangements.
>
> Quite a lad,
> Jim.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "b4atf" <tom00leigh@h...>
wrote:
> You are correct Jim. I should have said Brandy. In fact,
considering
> the inferior product which I understand was carried for ship's
stores
> of rum, a chance at officer's brandy would probably be a further
> incentive for an illicit sip. Thanks for the history. If you
haven't
> read them you might enjoy O'Brian's Master and Commander series of
> historical Navy novels. TOM
>
>

Thank you.
I shall look out for them on my next tour of the areas excellent
used bookshops. I have been looking for a new direction in my
reading for a while. It seems that it is not too difficult to run
through all the authors you really wanted to read in your quieter
years.
Jim.

With Cornfed. Lots of bird doo-doo and the like on the roof. Use
distilled water to dilute spirits.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "CornFed (Randy)"
<cornfed15@h...> wrote:
> try an experiment.   Take one of the bottles that went cloudy when
> diluted with normal tap water.  Set it aside in a fairly cool room
> temperature place and see if the sediment wont settle out in a few
> days or a week's time.  Then you can pour the clear ethanol through
a
> paper filter to remove the sediment.  The cloudyness might be
simple
> hard water minerals in solution.
>
> If you remove -all- of the mineral content from your drinking
water,
> it wont be as nice tasting to drink.
>
> the water that drains off of your roof might be clear of chlorine
and
> minerals, but there is no way you should consider it sanitary.  You
> should boil that water before using it in ways that people will
> consume it.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Matthew Garner"
> <mgarner@c...> wrote:
> > the second alcohol i have done thsi time i increase packing to
> > produce 90% with 30cm drop from out put to afunel sitting in
> various
> > glass sprit bottles but when i water it down with tap water it
goes
> > clouldy this is with middle cuts how ever i also diluted samll
> > amounts say 300ml with water to fill my 700ml bottles the water
was
> > rain water i colled witha funnel dripping down from the guttering
1
> > of these 3 bottles i did this 2 was a almost perfecly clear the
> > other 2 were much less cloudy waht can i do to improve it do i
HAVE
> > to distillwater and use taht aas taht is major time drain

I can conclude my experiment with rice mash/distilling. I made two batches.



The first batch started with 2.2 lb cracked rice soaked and then steamed. After
it cooled I pulverized and sprinkled on top of rice two Chinese yeast balls. It
sat like that for a few days and rice turned into a puffy white mass resembling
dense oatmeal cereal with water. It was white and smelled intensely of “nail
polish removal solvent.” After that I sprinkled 5 g of high alcohol tolerance
distillers yeast on top of this mass and stirred well. Slowly the mass started
to produce liquid after a few days. Realizing that there was not enough water
absorbed by the rice while steaming, I added some water to the mass. It yielded
a mix of yellowish liquid and white residue after about one and a half weeks of
fermentation. I stirred the mix twice daily – in the morning and before the bed
time instead of prayers. Later, when the fermentation completed, it was a real
trouble separating white solids residue from sake (?). I managed somehow and
ended up with three 40 oz bottles of sake (?)
  which translates in approximately 3.5 liters. Placing these bottles in the
refrigerator helped to clear top most one third of each bottle. The bottom two
third of bottles still contained very fine white resedue (doburoku?).  The
liquid tasted pleasantly dry with slightly bitter rice overtones. I liked it.
There was a lot of alcohol in the first batch and I estimated that it was around
10%-12% abv.



The second batch started as 5 Lb of regular glutinous rice from local
supermarket which boiled to the point of complete saturation in much of water. I
used 20 quarts stainless steel stock pot from my still. After boiling it for
about an hour the rice was completely cooked and very soft. The excess of water
was drained, and rice was rinsed with cold tap water. After that another two
Chinese yeast balls were pulverized and stirred in the rice. The next morning I
sprinkled 5 g of high tolerance alcohol distillers yeast on top and stirred
again. Fermentation started almost immediately. Because the rice was completely
saturated with water, the yellowish liquid started to ooze after just a few
hours. Fermentation lasted about ten days and was vigorous with lots of hissing
and bubbling. The odd thing was that there was no “nail polish removal solvent”
smell. The second batch fermented in an open HDPE bucket. There was usual
problem straining the wash. Second was appeared to have less
  alcohol compared to the first one.



Losing my patience all two batches were merged into one and distilled.
Distillation went as usual with some heads and plenty of tails. As the result I
distilled the following breakout:

Fore-shots:   70 mL completely wasted down the drain

Heads:          100 mL left for the next batch stripping distillation

Main:            750 mL good alcohol scheduled for second careful distillation

Tails:            350 mL nasty after-smells left for the next batch stripping
distillation

Total:            1270 mL out of 7.2 Lb of rice



Conclusions:

sugar wash is easier and 95% abv alcohol is indistinguishable from rice alcohol
after my still

if I have no still I would make this for drinking on a regular basis

I am not sure if I was able to convert all rice and convert it efficiently. If
someone knows please estimate how efficient was this process. Cheers, Alex...






I can be wrong I must say
Cheers, Alex...



---------------------------------
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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gentelmen and Ladies,
     My wife's been making wine for many years now, in fact we have
about 50gals ready to bottle.  For a present, I purchased a
StillSpirits reflux still.  So far I've been very pleased with the
85% alcohol it puts out.
     I've been going over many web site trying to find definitive
answers, but decided it would be best just to ask people who have
been doing this for a while.

      Fusel Oils.  Whats the deal?  Are they bad?  Are they good?  Do
they flavor the distillate?  Do they cause madness and death?

The reflux still is producing high proof alcohol from plum and
blackberry wine, but is missing most of the fruit flavor.  What can I
do the retain the flavor of the fermented mash without keeping toxins
that may be present in the higher temp distillate?

    Many sites not only recommend, but state as a requirement that I
filter with active carbon.  In fact, the retailer storngly
recommended I purchace one.  The problem is I have to water the
distillate down to 50% for the carbon to work.  Well now, this
defeats the purpose of producing high proof alcohol.  Is carbon
filtration necessary to produce a non-toxic liquor?

   As I have yet to find any diffinative answers on the net so far, I
apprieciate any answers or opinions you may be able to give
reguarding my questions.  I look forward to hearing from you and
participating on this board in the future.

Boiling under pressure for tomorrow night,
    Ray

Ray here are answers what I think are close to reality:


Fusel Oils.  What’s the deal? NOT MUCH – THEY ARE THERE TO STAY

Are they bad? YES IN LARGE QUANTITIES

Are they good? DEPENDS WHAT YOU ARE MAKING

Do they flavor the distillate? VERY BADLY IN LARGE QUANTITIES

Do they cause madness and death? MAYBE IN LARGE QUANTITIES BUT YOU REALLY HAVE
TO WORK HARD ON THIS ONE.

What can I do the retain the flavor of the fermented mash (USE POT STILL OR
REMOVE PACKING MATERIAL) without keeping toxins that may be present in the
higher temp distillate? CUT OUTPUT SHORT OF REACHING HIGH TEMPERATURE

Is carbon filtration necessary to produce a non-toxic liquor? NO IF THE MIDDLE
CUT IS SELECTED CORRECTLY.



Cheers, Alex.


ray_goering <rgoering@...> wrote:Gentelmen and Ladies,
     My wife's been making wine for many years now, in fact we have
about 50gals ready to bottle.  For a present, I purchased a
StillSpirits reflux still.  So far I've been very pleased with the
85% alcohol it puts out.
     I've been going over many web site trying to find definitive
answers, but decided it would be best just to ask people who have
been doing this for a while.

      Fusel Oils.  Whats the deal?  Are they bad?  Are they good?  Do
they flavor the distillate?  Do they cause madness and death?

The reflux still is producing high proof alcohol from plum and
blackberry wine, but is missing most of the fruit flavor.  What can I
do the retain the flavor of the fermented mash without keeping toxins
that may be present in the higher temp distillate?

    Many sites not only recommend, but state as a requirement that I
filter with active carbon.  In fact, the retailer storngly
recommended I purchace one.  The problem is I have to water the
distillate down to 50% for the carbon to work.  Well now, this
defeats the purpose of producing high proof alcohol.  Is carbon
filtration necessary to produce a non-toxic liquor?

   As I have yet to find any diffinative answers on the net so far, I
apprieciate any answers or opinions you may be able to give
reguarding my questions.  I look forward to hearing from you and
participating on this board in the future.

Boiling under pressure for tomorrow night,
    Ray






New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org

ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org




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I can be wrong I must say
Cheers, Alex...



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gentelmen and Ladies,
       My wife's been making wine for many years now, in fact
we have
   about 50gals ready to bottle.  For a present, I purchased
a
   StillSpirits reflux still.  So far I've been very pleased
with the
   85% alcohol it puts out.
       I've been going over many web site trying to find
definitive
   answers, but decided it would be best just to ask people
who have
   been doing this for a while.

        Fusel Oils.  Whats the deal?  Are they bad?  Are they
good?  Do
   they flavor the distillate?  Do they cause madness and
death?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
``
   Fusel Oils is a general term for the crap that comes
across after the ethanol has been distilled, with some
stills an oil slick forms on the top of the alcohol. They
are also what flavours commercial gin,rum,whisky etc. They
give you a headache

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

   The reflux still is producing high proof alcohol from plum
and
   blackberry wine, but is missing most of the fruit flavor.
What can I
   do the retain the flavor of the fermented mash without
keeping toxins
   that may be present in the higher temp distillate?
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
   Remove the cooling tube that supplies water to the
condenser around the collum out  of the centre  of the lid.
remove OR leave the marble/ packing depending on personal
taste over several distillations.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~

      Many sites not only recommend, but state as a
requirement that I
   filter with active carbon.  In fact, the retailer storngly
   recommended I purchace one.  The problem is I have to
water the
   distillate down to 50% for the carbon to work.  Well now,
this
   defeats the purpose of producing high proof alcohol.  Is
carbon
   filtration necessary to produce a non-toxic liquor?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~
   Most people will recomend carbon filtering unless
producing 95+% alc , it removes any unwanted odours/flavours
from the alcohol (pour a bottle of commercial rum whisky etc
thru carbon and you will get clear unflavoured alcohol
(vodka)), most will also recomend filtering at or below for
the carbon to be more effective, which isnt to say it doesnt
work at all above , it just  works below 50%. Personally I
too would recomed carbon filtering if when using that
particular still, sone pot scrubber up the collum should
improve the taste.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


     As I have yet to find any diffinative answers on the net
so far, I
   apprieciate any answers or opinions you may be able to
give
   reguarding my questions.  I look forward to hearing from
you and
   participating on this board in the future.

   Boiling under pressure for tomorrow night,
      Ray


   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~``

   MARK

   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`




   New Distillers group archives are at
http://archive.nnytech.net/
   FAQ and other information available at
http://homedistiller.org

   ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
   FAQ and other information available at
http://homedistiller.org





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Terms of Service.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I just wanted to confirm my understanding of a stripping run. This is the
first run through the still which 'strips' the wash down to a semi-pure
spirit. This spirit is then run through the still for a second time to get
the best result. Is this correct? I have built an EL still.

Also, can I just follow the basic procedure below for both runs or are there
special things I need to be aware of?

Thanks in advance.


Adam



> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, BOKAKOB <bokakob@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > As requested the procedure to run EL type still. Please note that
> > this applies to all reflux stills. The quantity is oriented toward
> > what seemingly appears to be standard 5 gal (20 liters) batch at
> > concentration just about 14%-16% abv
> > >
> > >    Setup everything tight and secure after pouring the wash in
>the
> > still boiler
> > >    Have extinguisher for chemical fires handy (some sort of
>rating
> > A, B or C)
> > >    Start heating. It is a long process and may require more than
>an
> > hour.
> > >    After you feel the column is hot at half height turn on
>cooling
> > water
> > >    Reduce heat as the thermometer will show 78*C, very often it
> > will surge past this mark.
> > >    Keep on reducing the heat until temperature will start falling
> > below 78*C
> > >    At this point note the heat setting and increase the heat that
> > the temperature is steady 78*C or very near this mark plus-minus
>half
> > degree.
> > >    Start tinkering with cold water by reducing the flow. Watch
>the
> > thermometer to keep 78*C and reduce water flow until it is very
> > little and pretty warm/hot. Usually it is an almost dripping or
>just
> > a little bit more with a thickness of a match. Watch 78*C
> > temperature, and if it is constant you have arrived at the point
> > where you start collecting the heads. Wait 10 minutes.
> > >    Open the needle valve just to allow dripping. Collect first
> > 100mL at a rate one drip per second. Dispose of it anyway you like –
>
> > that is garbage and I call it "Foreshots."
> > >    Next keep collecting "Heads." It is usually (in my case) about
> > 20% of alcohol to be produced, say one liter (please do your own
> > elementary math).
> > >    After this stage start collecting "Main cut" in a series of
> > small bottles. It should be approximately 50% of total alcohol to
>be
> > in the mash. Keep it.
> > >    Keep on collecting "Tails" until the temperature starts
>climbing
> > above 90*C. This should go in the next batch for redistilling.
> > >    Clean equipment and you may want to re-use 30% of wash
>leftovers
> > in the boiler for the next batch. Dissolving sugar there at this
>time
> > when the wash is hot seems to be a fine idea.
> > >
> > > This is very basic directive.
> > >
> > > Why not all the members collaborate on this skeleton and add
>little
> > things that need to be mentioned? Cheers, Alex…
> > >
> > >
> > > painlyss <tooltwister@h...> wrote:I built an eliptical design
> > compound still from BOKABOB. Can someone write a procedure on how
>to
> > run it? Like 1.turn on heat 2.bring to boil... something easy to
> > understand and just general to get stared. I have read many sites
>and
> > got The Compleat Distiller but still am too new to understand all.
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I can be wrong I must say
> > > Cheers, Alex...

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--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "The Ooz" <theooz@h...> wrote:
>
> I just wanted to confirm my understanding of a stripping run. This
is the
> first run through the still which 'strips' the wash down to a semi-
pure
> spirit. This spirit is then run through the still for a second
time to get
> the best result. Is this correct? I have built an EL still.
>
> Also, can I just follow the basic procedure below for both runs or
are there
> special things I need to be aware of?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Adam
>
>
>
> > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, BOKAKOB <bokakob@y...>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > As requested the procedure to run EL type still. Please note
that

Snipped ========================================


Hello Adam,
The procedure is essentially the same to strip with the EL.
Couple of points. Leave out the packing. Collect everything until
the vapour temperature over the wash reaches perhaps 98C. Run with
your needle valve full open. Adjust water flow  and heat input so
that you are not losing product out of the top vent, and also not
getting vapour out of the needle valve.
It sounds complicated but really isn't. Just run things up a bit at
a time until you start blowing vapour, then back off a little until
it stops. You should get perhaps 50 to 100ml a minute if you have
enough heat.

You may want to consider making a simple stripping head. This can be
nothing more than a connection to the boiler designed to lead the
vapour into a liebig condenser of about one metre length. Can be
quicker and easier to manage than using the EL for stripping.

Cheers,
Jim

Mark,
   I too am new at this.  If you don't have the mechanical skill (like
I) a good still can be purchased in the US.
   I got mine through F.H. Stienbarts in Portland, OR.  It was $300
for the boiling pot and condenser, but what your paying for is the
condenser.  You can put the reflux condenser on up to a 5gal (25L)
pot, so its a good investment.
   One word of advice.  Distilling is still illegal here in the U.S.,
so the people at Stienbarts want to help you but you gotta know the
lingo.  When you call (get the # off the net) ask about ordering
the "Essential Oil Extractor".  They'll know what you're talking
about.  Its kinda like the bongs that say "for tobacco use only".

Good Luck,
   Ray

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <brewmaster411@y...>
wrote:
> Just joined. I've been brewing for 11 years (beer, wine, mead) and
> would like to try my hand at a still.
>
> Where's a good (and cheap) place to get a decent still?  Basic
> process, times, temps, etc.
>
> Any info would be appreciated and useful.

> I just wanted to confirm my understanding of a stripping run. This is the
> first run through the still which 'strips' the wash down to a semi-pure
> spirit. This spirit is then run through the still for a second
> time to get
> the best result. Is this correct? I have built an EL still.
>
> Also, can I just follow the basic procedure below for both runs
> or are there
> special things I need to be aware of?

You are right. Stripping means actually just on highest power double the
percentage, without looking at foreshots, heads and tails. They will be
separated on the second (or sometimes third) run. I have no experience with
any reflux column, i only own a old-style dutch potstill. Stripping is done
at 40 kW power (60 l mash in one hour to about 45%, leaving about 15 liters)
second run is done at 8,5 kW power in about 1,5 hours to 80%. Look in
photos - rutger for my still.

Rutger

http://www.atf.gov/faqs.htm  look under alcohol faq's    It says that
any purchase of a still larger than one gallon has to be reported to
the government.   While it is not likely that you will have a knock
on your door, it is not out of the realm of possibilities.

yes,  distilling essential oils is allowed by law, but calling the
device by another name doesnt change the fact that is is a
distillation appliance.  Use your own judgement about what you say to
who.

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "ray_goering" <rgoering@m...>
wrote:
> Mark,
>   I too am new at this.  If you don't have the mechanical skill
(like
> I) a good still can be purchased in the US.
>   I got mine through F.H. Stienbarts in Portland, OR.  It was $300
> for the boiling pot and condenser, but what your paying for is the
> condenser.  You can put the reflux condenser on up to a 5gal (25L)
> pot, so its a good investment.
>   One word of advice.  Distilling is still illegal here in the
U.S.,
> so the people at Stienbarts want to help you but you gotta know the
> lingo.  When you call (get the # off the net) ask about ordering
> the "Essential Oil Extractor".  They'll know what you're talking
> about.  Its kinda like the bongs that say "for tobacco use only".
>
> Good Luck,
>   Ray
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <brewmaster411@y...>
> wrote:
> > Just joined. I've been brewing for 11 years (beer, wine, mead)
and
> > would like to try my hand at a still.
> >
> > Where's a good (and cheap) place to get a decent still?  Basic
> > process, times, temps, etc.
> >
> > Any info would be appreciated and useful.

correct me if i am wrong but the term "Essential Oil Extractor" means
a pot still not a refluxer. 1st. you need to decide if you want a pot
still for flavor or a reflux unit for purity...

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "CornFed (Randy)"
<cornfed15@h...> wrote:
> http://www.atf.gov/faqs.htm  look under alcohol faq's    It says
that
> any purchase of a still larger than one gallon has to be reported
to
> the government.   While it is not likely that you will have a knock
> on your door, it is not out of the realm of possibilities.
>
> yes,  distilling essential oils is allowed by law, but calling the
> device by another name doesnt change the fact that is is a
> distillation appliance.  Use your own judgement about what you say
to
> who.
>
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "ray_goering"
<rgoering@m...>
> wrote:
> > Mark,
> >   I too am new at this.  If you don't have the mechanical skill
> (like
> > I) a good still can be purchased in the US.
> >   I got mine through F.H. Stienbarts in Portland, OR.  It was
$300
> > for the boiling pot and condenser, but what your paying for is
the
> > condenser.  You can put the reflux condenser on up to a 5gal
(25L)
> > pot, so its a good investment.
> >   One word of advice.  Distilling is still illegal here in the
> U.S.,
> > so the people at Stienbarts want to help you but you gotta know
the
> > lingo.  When you call (get the # off the net) ask about ordering
> > the "Essential Oil Extractor".  They'll know what you're talking
> > about.  Its kinda like the bongs that say "for tobacco use only".
> >
> > Good Luck,
> >   Ray
> >
> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Mark"
<brewmaster411@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > Just joined. I've been brewing for 11 years (beer, wine, mead)
> and
> > > would like to try my hand at a still.
> > >
> > > Where's a good (and cheap) place to get a decent still?  Basic
> > > process, times, temps, etc.
> > >
> > > Any info would be appreciated and useful.

I had the same thing with my EL still. I took some silcon radiator
hose (from a marine application I believe) that fit around the
outside diameter of the column, cut it to about 3 inches long,
slipped it over the joints and used hose clamps to secure it to the
column. No leaks and easy to remove for cleaning.
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "The Ooz" <theooz@h...> wrote:
> I am running my still for the first time. It's based on the EL
design. I'm
> just using water at this point to clean it out.
>
> When selecting the pieces for the project (all copper column) I had
to
> purchase the 'joining' pieces (not sure of the correct term) that
were
> slightly flared at each end. They are not a slightly larger piece
of pipe as
> shown on homedistiller.org. This makes them easier to sit over the
2inch
> pipe, but makes them harder to seal.
>
> It now seems that I have a leak at the two unsoldered ends of these
joining
> pieces. I'm not sure if there is a better solution, or whether I
should just
> use some thread tape wrapped around the end of the pipe prior to
assembly
> (this will be my choice in the short term).
>
> I've just uploaded an image to folder TheOoz and it's the only
photo there.
>
> Can anyone make suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Adam
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hot chart ringtones and polyphonics. Go to
> http://ninemsn.com.au/mobilemania/default.asp

Note - some fruits do not have much flavor!
Fruit flavor -
use more fruit - up to all fruit.
distill between 75-60%abv.
steep fruit in 65%abv and then redistill - 2-4kg fruit/litre alc.,
then dilute to 40-45%abv.
If you throw away the first 3% (about 100ml for a 20l wash) you will
eliminate methanol. Fusel alcohols have a BP higher than 92C.

Wal
--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "ray_goering" <rgoering@m...>
wrote:
> Gentelmen and Ladies,
>     My wife's been making wine for many years now, in fact we have
> about 50gals ready to bottle.  For a present, I purchased a
> StillSpirits reflux still.  So far I've been very pleased with the
> 85% alcohol it puts out.
>     I've been going over many web site trying to find definitive
> answers, but decided it would be best just to ask people who have
> been doing this for a while.
>
>      Fusel Oils.  Whats the deal?  Are they bad?  Are they good?
Do
> they flavor the distillate?  Do they cause madness and death?
>
> The reflux still is producing high proof alcohol from plum and
> blackberry wine, but is missing most of the fruit flavor.  What can
I
> do the retain the flavor of the fermented mash without keeping
toxins
> that may be present in the higher temp distillate?
>
>    Many sites not only recommend, but state as a requirement that I
> filter with active carbon.  In fact, the retailer storngly
> recommended I purchace one.  The problem is I have to water the
> distillate down to 50% for the carbon to work.  Well now, this
> defeats the purpose of producing high proof alcohol.  Is carbon
> filtration necessary to produce a non-toxic liquor?
>
>   As I have yet to find any diffinative answers on the net so far,
I
> apprieciate any answers or opinions you may be able to give
> reguarding my questions.  I look forward to hearing from you and
> participating on this board in the future.
>
> Boiling under pressure for tomorrow night,
>    Ray

You basically got it very right. Now is the time to do it. My advice is not to
get greedy, make conservative cuts and redistill the leftovers in the next
batch.

The Ooz <theooz@...> wrote:
I just wanted to confirm my understanding of a stripping run. This is the
first run through the still which 'strips' the wash down to a semi-pure
spirit. This spirit is then run through the still for a second time to get
the best result. Is this correct? I have built an EL still.

Also, can I just follow the basic procedure below for both runs or are there
special things I need to be aware of?

Thanks in advance.


Adam



> > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, BOKAKOB wrote:
> > >
> > > As requested the procedure to run EL type still. Please note that
> > this applies to all reflux stills. The quantity is oriented toward
> > what seemingly appears to be standard 5 gal (20 liters) batch at
> > concentration just about 14%-16% abv
> > >
> > > Setup everything tight and secure after pouring the wash in
>the
> > still boiler
> > > Have extinguisher for chemical fires handy (some sort of
>rating
> > A, B or C)
> > > Start heating. It is a long process and may require more than
>an
> > hour.
> > > After you feel the column is hot at half height turn on
>cooling
> > water
> > > Reduce heat as the thermometer will show 78*C, very often it
> > will surge past this mark.
> > > Keep on reducing the heat until temperature will start falling
> > below 78*C
> > > At this point note the heat setting and increase the heat that
> > the temperature is steady 78*C or very near this mark plus-minus
>half
> > degree.
> > > Start tinkering with cold water by reducing the flow. Watch
>the
> > thermometer to keep 78*C and reduce water flow until it is very
> > little and pretty warm/hot. Usually it is an almost dripping or
>just
> > a little bit more with a thickness of a match. Watch 78*C
> > temperature, and if it is constant you have arrived at the point
> > where you start collecting the heads. Wait 10 minutes.
> > > Open the needle valve just to allow dripping. Collect first
> > 100mL at a rate one drip per second. Dispose of it anyway you like –
>
> > that is garbage and I call it "Foreshots."
> > > Next keep collecting "Heads." It is usually (in my case) about
> > 20% of alcohol to be produced, say one liter (please do your own
> > elementary math).
> > > After this stage start collecting "Main cut" in a series of
> > small bottles. It should be approximately 50% of total alcohol to
>be
> > in the mash. Keep it.
> > > Keep on collecting "Tails" until the temperature starts
>climbing
> > above 90*C. This should go in the next batch for redistilling.
> > > Clean equipment and you may want to re-use 30% of wash
>leftovers
> > in the boiler for the next batch. Dissolving sugar there at this
>time
> > when the wash is hot seems to be a fine idea.
> > >
> > > This is very basic directive.
> > >
> > > Why not all the members collaborate on this skeleton and add
>little
> > things that need to be mentioned? Cheers, Alex…
> > >
> > >
> > > painlyss wrote:I built an eliptical design
> > compound still from BOKABOB. Can someone write a procedure on how
>to
> > run it? Like 1.turn on heat 2.bring to boil... something easy to
> > understand and just general to get stared. I have read many sites
>and
> > got The Compleat Distiller but still am too new to understand all.
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I can be wrong I must say
> > > Cheers, Alex...

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I can be wrong I must say
Cheers, Alex...



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You can also look at homebrewheaven.com and brewhaus.com for stills.  I also
started with the Essential Oil Extractor.  It is a great way to get started.
I think you are better off using stainless steel pot scrubbers instead of the
rasching rings they provide.  You can also insulate the column and purchase
braided clear hoses to replace the very flexible clear hoses that accomidate the
package.  I found that my hoses would kink and cause less water flow through
the condencer.  If you think you need a larger pot you can always cut the one
that comes with the extractor in half so that you still have the sealed
connection to the column.  Then purchase a 15 gal stainless brew pot, modify it
with
a few cuts and some welding, and begin cooking 50L+ batches.  If you find a
leak or two JB Weld works wonders.  Good Luck!  Chris


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I use my Essential Oil Extractor as a Reflux, but I think it can be a pot
still depending on how you set it up.  The directions explain to you how to set
it up for what you want.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@h...> wrote:
> Note - some fruits do not have much flavor!
> Fruit flavor -
> use more fruit - up to all fruit.
> distill between 75-60%abv.
> steep fruit in 65%abv and then redistill - 2-4kg fruit/litre alc.,
> then dilute to 40-45%abv.
> If you throw away the first 3% (about 100ml for a 20l wash) you
will
> eliminate methanol. Fusel alcohols have a BP higher than 92C.
>
> Wal

Thanks Wal,
    My concern is that, according to the charts I have, Propanol's
(rubbing alcohol)BP is 82C.  Is that safe to drink?

    I'm kinda confused as to the nature of the fusel oils.  Some
places say strip it out completely with carbon, others say its what
flavors the brew.  I've read the whiskey is both heads and tails.  I
thought the point was to ditch both because thay contained poison.
For the most part what I figured out is to strip all the methenol I
can out, and try to stop before I get too much fusels.  Should I be
testing my distillate on the family pets to see if its okay to drink?

   Let me get this stright,  if I do a primary "stripping run" in a
pot still configuration, dilute, and then reflux it, it will retain
flavor?  Won't it be still come out as neutral spirit with little to
no taste?  If I just made the high % distillate and then steeped it
in fruit would that absorb flavor?

    I've read things that say as much, but I was hoping to get people
who have actually done it.

Congeners..
Congeners are toxic substances created during the alcohol
fermentation process. When you drink alcohol, these toxins are
dispersed into your system as your liver breaks down the alcohol.
While congeners are not the sole cause of a hangover, they do seem to
contribute in some manner to the "quality" of the ensuing hangover
visit here for more info. http://www.all-about-
hangovers.com/html/congeners.html

--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "ray_goering" <rgoering@m...>
wrote:
> --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@h...>
wrote:
> > Note - some fruits do not have much flavor!
> > Fruit flavor -
> > use more fruit - up to all fruit.
> > distill between 75-60%abv.
> > steep fruit in 65%abv and then redistill - 2-4kg fruit/litre
alc.,
> > then dilute to 40-45%abv.
> > If you throw away the first 3% (about 100ml for a 20l wash) you
> will
> > eliminate methanol. Fusel alcohols have a BP higher than 92C.
> >
> > Wal
>
> Thanks Wal,
>    My concern is that, according to the charts I have, Propanol's
> (rubbing alcohol)BP is 82C.  Is that safe to drink?
>
>    I'm kinda confused as to the nature of the fusel oils.  Some
> places say strip it out completely with carbon, others say its what
> flavors the brew.  I've read the whiskey is both heads and tails.
I
> thought the point was to ditch both because thay contained
poison.
> For the most part what I figured out is to strip all the methenol I
> can out, and try to stop before I get too much fusels.  Should I be
> testing my distillate on the family pets to see if its okay to
drink?
>
>   Let me get this stright,  if I do a primary "stripping run" in a
> pot still configuration, dilute, and then reflux it, it will retain
> flavor?  Won't it be still come out as neutral spirit with little
to
> no taste?  If I just made the high % distillate and then steeped it
> in fruit would that absorb flavor?
>
>    I've read things that say as much, but I was hoping to get
people
> who have actually done it.

http://www.all-about-
> hangovers.com/html/congeners.html

This link doesn't work.

corrected link: http://tinyurl.com/2msvt

Please use this free service, it will help all in just two clicks.

Rutger

be sure to visit http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Moonshine_Makers/