multimachine : Messages : 16485-16992 of 17327

#16485

From: "Pat" <rigmatch@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:31 pm
Subject: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

can you guys help with this?



Hi Gents



I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on

the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how

to make it 'mud-proof'



Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to

have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a

3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and

re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to

prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?



Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing

for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need

something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it

goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our

lives......Smack!)



Ideas?



Best Regards



Jeremmy

#16488

From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:18 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

xyrth

Send Email

Is the purpose compaction? �Why use dirt and water instead of just water?

I would build end caps for it out of wood, you could bolt a wheel hub to the wood an connect the wood to the drum ... possibly glue? �I guess you could also weld plate to the outside of the drum, but wood seems easier, and doesn't open the possibility of leaking liquid.

�- Adam

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Pat <rigmatch@...> wrote:

�

can you guys help with this?

Hi Gents

I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a 3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?

Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our lives......Smack!)

Ideas?

Best Regards

Jeremmy

#16489

From: BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:11 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

beglackin

Send Email

The problem I see is that a standard drum has pretty thin steel and unless the roller surface is completely replaced, the drum circumference will be destroyed long before work is done.

�

How about casting�6" wide concrete disks�(18-24" or so diameter) �that can be assembled on a wood or steel axle for compaction.� The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole.� The�square socket allows for installing greased wood bearing material�to ride on the axle (the disk does not touch the axle). If they get stuck in the dirt/mud, simply disassemble the unit and remove a piece at a time.� This would also allow for wider or narrower compaction profiles.� I have seen similar home made units here in PA on old farms in the equipment pastures....

�

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...> wrote:

�

Is the purpose compaction? �Why use dirt and water instead of just water?

I would build end caps for it out of wood, you could bolt a wheel hub to the wood an connect the wood to the drum ... possibly glue? �I guess you could also weld plate to the outside of the drum, but wood seems easier, and doesn't open the possibility of leaking liquid.

�- Adam

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Pat <rigmatch@...> wrote:

�

can you guys help with this?

Hi Gents

I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a 3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?

Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our lives......Smack!)

Ideas?

Best Regards

Jeremmy

#16490

From: BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:12 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

beglackin

Send Email

Correction

�

"The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole."

�

Should state

�

"The center of the form will have a square depression of 0.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole."

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 1:11 PM, BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...> wrote:

The problem I see is that a standard drum has pretty thin steel and unless the roller surface is completely replaced, the drum circumference will be destroyed long before work is done.

�
How about casting�6" wide concrete disks�(18-24" or so diameter) �that can be assembled on a wood or steel axle for compaction.� The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole.� The�square socket allows for installing greased wood bearing material�to ride on the axle (the disk does not touch the axle). If they get stuck in the dirt/mud, simply disassemble the unit and remove a piece at a time.� This would also allow for wider or narrower compaction profiles.� I have seen similar home made units here in PA on old farms in the equipment pastures....

�
On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...> wrote:

�

Is the purpose compaction? �Why use dirt and water instead of just water?

I would build end caps for it out of wood, you could bolt a wheel hub to the wood an connect the wood to the drum ... possibly glue? �I guess you could also weld plate to the outside of the drum, but wood seems easier, and doesn't open the possibility of leaking liquid.

�- Adam

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Pat <rigmatch@...> wrote:

�

can you guys help with this?

Hi Gents

I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a 3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?

Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our lives......Smack!)

Ideas?

Best Regards

Jeremmy

#16491

From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:14 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

xyrth

Send Email

Another option is to build the bearings so it can spin, put some sloppy grout in it and spin it until you've got a 1" coat all the way around the inside. �This should add some good strength, and won't have issues with adding water if you need more weight.�

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 10:12 AM, BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...> wrote:

�

Correction
�
"The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole."
�
Should state
�
"The center of the form will have a square depression of 0.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole."
On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 1:11 PM, BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...> wrote:

The problem I see is that a standard drum has pretty thin steel and unless the roller surface is completely replaced, the drum circumference will be destroyed long before work is done.

�
How about casting�6" wide concrete disks�(18-24" or so diameter) �that can be assembled on a wood or steel axle for compaction.� The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole.� The�square socket allows for installing greased wood bearing material�to ride on the axle (the disk does not touch the axle). If they get stuck in the dirt/mud, simply disassemble the unit and remove a piece at a time.� This would also allow for wider or narrower compaction profiles.� I have seen similar home made units here in PA on old farms in the equipment pastures....

�
On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...> wrote:

�

Is the purpose compaction? �Why use dirt and water instead of just water?

I would build end caps for it out of wood, you could bolt a wheel hub to the wood an connect the wood to the drum ... possibly glue? �I guess you could also weld plate to the outside of the drum, but wood seems easier, and doesn't open the possibility of leaking liquid.

�- Adam

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Pat <rigmatch@...> wrote:

�

can you guys help with this?

Hi Gents

I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a 3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?

Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our lives......Smack!)

Ideas?

Best Regards

Jeremmy

#16492

From: John Kiely <john_kiely@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:15 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

john_kiely

Send Email

I have seen a very rudimentary roller done here on a farm in Ireland and done not so long ago either.

It was done as follows.

A concrete pipe was obtained through which a square piece of wood was put. The corners of the square block of wood touched the inside circumference of the Concrete pipe. There was a hole drilled through the entire length of the wood and a round, and greased wooden shaft was inserted through for an axle. A wooden frame was then made to rest on the axle and the whole lot was pulled by a very modern John Deere. To add weight a number of empty but square pesticide containers were mounted on the frame but above the roller. These were filled with the correct amount of water for the appropriate weight.

This is how I saw it done but I am sure any variation on this theme could be done. For instance cast Iron hubs could be used instead of a big humk of wood.

The frame could easily have been made of Angle Iron? Or you could use some 1.5" plastic pipe for bearings for the wood? Or even you could add removable wheels such as car tyres for transport on the road.

Taking this to it's most simple incarnation is again a concrete pipe with a nylon rope through its center. Tie the rope off in a circle and hang it on the hitch of your tractor (Or individual pulling it). It won't last long but it's good enough for a small garden.

This isn't I suppose far removed from Brian's suggestion but I have seen this in operation and only 10 years ago too.

John Kiely (IRL)

From: BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

Correction

"The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole."

Should state

"The center of the form will have a square depression of 0.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole."

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 1:11 PM, BRIAN GLACKIN <glackin.brian@...> wrote:

The problem I see is that a standard drum has pretty thin steel and unless the roller surface is completely replaced, the drum circumference will be destroyed long before work is done.

How about casting 6" wide concrete disks (18-24" or so diameter) that can be assembled on a wood or steel axle for compaction. The center of the form will have a square depression of 1.5 inches on either side with a smaller through hole. The square socket allows for installing greased wood bearing material to ride on the axle (the disk does not touch the axle). If they get stuck in the dirt/mud, simply disassemble the unit and remove a piece at a time. This would also allow for wider or narrower compaction profiles. I have seen similar home made units here in PA on old farms in the equipment pastures....

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...> wrote:

Is the purpose compaction? Why use dirt and water instead of just water?

I would build end caps for it out of wood, you could bolt a wheel hub to the wood an connect the wood to the drum ... possibly glue? I guess you could also weld plate to the outside of the drum, but wood seems easier, and doesn't open the possibility of leaking liquid.

- Adam

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Pat <rigmatch@...> wrote:

can you guys help with this?

Hi Gents

I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a 3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?

Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our lives......Smack!)

Ideas?

Best Regards

Jeremmy

#16494

From: "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...>
Date: Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:52 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

sirdave144

Send Email

On 11/30/2012 10:31 AM, Pat wrote:

I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof' Basically, the drum is to be filled with a mixture of dirt and water so as to have variable weights (by removing water in very difficult sections) Possibly a 3 inch pipe to go through the center of the drum (as the axle) then we try and re-weld closed the 2 holes (top and bottom) we had cut open for the axle to prevent the mud-slurry mix from leaking out?
Next problem. The actual axle assembly. we can't use "U" bolts (as we're doing for the manual roller) to connect the 'yoke' assembly to the drum, but need something strong enough to make this roller workable and not a death trap if it goes "rogue" (the image of bowling pins and the gang & I running for our lives......Smack!)
Ideas?

First of all, making it mud PROOF is difficult, a set of bearings and seals, however, would help do the trick. Adding a labyrinth in front of the rubber seal might also help.

Is there any reason the axle must go all the way through? Stubs into wells would be pretty simple and safe. Another trick is to put a tube completely through the drum and weld it on both ends, this makes a mud-proof hole into which axles and bearings can be placed. Again, the mud inside can't get at it. The bearings can be cast-in-place Babbitt or pressed in place bronze. There is no chance this will go over a few hundred RPM, probably a few dozen RPM.

As to U bolts, if you build a good mount (look at an older "live axle" car), and use strong U bolts (4 of them), the end result is quite strong. Look carefully at the spring perch and note the hole in the middle and the bolt head sticking out of the leaf springs. That tends to hold 3,000 pounds pretty well.

Another thought, weld plates to the ends, weld automotive wheels to the plates, press studs (or weld them) into the wheels and use standard automotive front axle stubs to mount things, with nuts on the back side.

In any of the latter cases, the mud is inside and can't get out.

Dave 8{)

--

"The first method for estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at the men he has around him."
Niccolo Machiavelli

NOTE TO ALL:
When forwarding emails, please use only "Blind Carbon Copy" or "Bcc" for all recipients. Please "delete" or "highlight & cut" any forwarding history which includes my email address! It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world! Erasing the history helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and viruses from being propagated.

THANK YOU!

#16499

From: Shannon DeWolfe <sdewolfe@...>
Date: Sat Dec 1, 2012 2:53 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

s.dewolfe

Send Email

I am a bit late to the game but here is my two cents worth...

Rather than passing an axle through the barrel, I would make stub axles.

The axles and bearings could be made of wood. There were wheels long

before there were steel axles.

The ends of a barrel are thin metal. I don't think they would stand up

to stress concentrated in a small area. But, a plywood plate would

distribute the stress and that should work. Mount the axle stub to the

plywood plate and mount the plate to the barrel ends. How to do that? I

am not sure. Perhaps tack weld six or eight bolts, head against the

barrel end, drill the plywood to fit, nut the plywood to the barrel

ends. If you have adhesive, add that too.

Here is some good information on wood bearings. The technical data

should help you design a bearing that you can turn down on a temporary

lathe:

http://www.woodexbearing.com/engdata.php

Rather than trying to keep the bearings sealed from water and mud, I

would pack them full of grease before each use. Rope packing should

suffice to keep the grease in and the dirt out, I think.

Rather than making a simple yoke, make a rectangular frame. That is, a

barrel inside a frame. Mount the yoke to the frame rather than directly

to the axles. If the frame breaks free of the tractor, the frame will

rotate around and dig into the ground, stopping a rampaging roller! If

the barrel breaks free inside the frame, the frame contains it.

To prevent the barrel from drifting around inside the frame, make the

bearings and axles with thrust surfaces.

I would fill the roller with water. I see no need to put mud inside the

barrel. The weight can be adjusted by adding or removing water directly

through the bung hole. How would you remove mud?

Jeremmy, I stress that I have never done any of this!

Mr. Shannon DeWolfe

--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 56

year old fat man.

On 11/30/2012 9:31 AM, Pat wrote:

>

> can you guys help with this?

>

> Hi Gents

>

> I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is

> based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant

> quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

>

#16500

From: Pierre Coueffin <pcoueffin@...>
Date: Sat Dec 1, 2012 3:06 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

darkblood_

Send Email

My� grandfather was of the opinion that a strategically placed zerk fitting so you could pump in grease into the back of� the bearing with your grease gun, and have it flow through the bearing and out the exposed side goes a long way towards keeping crap out of your wheel bearings in adverse conditions.

A lot of the stuff he built had modified tapered roller bearings with grease channels added to the cup, so he could shoot grease through the bearing periodically without taking apart the machine, or even necessarily shutting it down.

#16501

From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
Date: Sat Dec 1, 2012 3:52 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

xyrth

Send Email

Exactly what I was thinking, Shannon, you did a much better job of explaining it.

On Dec 1, 2012 6:53 AM, "Shannon DeWolfe" <sdewolfe@...> wrote:

�

I am a bit late to the game but here is my two cents worth...

Rather than passing an axle through the barrel, I would make stub axles.

The axles and bearings could be made of wood. There were wheels long
before there were steel axles.

The ends of a barrel are thin metal. I don't think they would stand up
to stress concentrated in a small area. But, a plywood plate would
distribute the stress and that should work. Mount the axle stub to the
plywood plate and mount the plate to the barrel ends. How to do that? I
am not sure. Perhaps tack weld six or eight bolts, head against the
barrel end, drill the plywood to fit, nut the plywood to the barrel
ends. If you have adhesive, add that too.

Here is some good information on wood bearings. The technical data
should help you design a bearing that you can turn down on a temporary
lathe:

http://www.woodexbearing.com/engdata.php

Rather than trying to keep the bearings sealed from water and mud, I
would pack them full of grease before each use. Rope packing should
suffice to keep the grease in and the dirt out, I think.

Rather than making a simple yoke, make a rectangular frame. That is, a
barrel inside a frame. Mount the yoke to the frame rather than directly
to the axles. If the frame breaks free of the tractor, the frame will
rotate around and dig into the ground, stopping a rampaging roller! If
the barrel breaks free inside the frame, the frame contains it.

To prevent the barrel from drifting around inside the frame, make the
bearings and axles with thrust surfaces.

I would fill the roller with water. I see no need to put mud inside the
barrel. The weight can be adjusted by adding or removing water directly
through the bung hole. How would you remove mud?

Jeremmy, I stress that I have never done any of this!

Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 56 year old fat man.

On 11/30/2012 9:31 AM, Pat wrote:
>
> can you guys help with this?
>
> Hi Gents
>
> I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is
> based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant
> quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'
>

#16505

From: Phil Bascombe <pbascombe@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 3:53 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

pbascombe

Send Email

greetings

i built a roller out of a rolled sheet steel , 36 inch long with 24 in diameter, (similar to 200 liter drum )I used the 2 rear hubs from a front wheel drive car and two tires ,front wheel hubs ,bolt on type would work to .

i mounted the rear hubs on the inside of the frame I built to attach to the tractor , then mounted the tires to the hub

with the valve stems to the out side , remove air from tires ,pushed the tires into the tube (200 liter drum with ends removed ) , bolted frame and hub together , blew up tires and rolled away .... how ever this did very little for packing

or leveling , so i added a 45 gal drum and filled it with water . over 400 lbs weight still no great packing or leveling

add sheet of plastic to tire before assembly push into drum, then inflate, this should reduce mud infiltration

I drew a windows paint drawing to try and put a picture to words

just different options

Phil

From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 8:52:58 AM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

Exactly what I was thinking, Shannon, you did a much better job of explaining it.

On Dec 1, 2012 6:53 AM, "Shannon DeWolfe" <sdewolfe@...> wrote:

I am a bit late to the game but here is my two cents worth...

Rather than passing an axle through the barrel, I would make stub axles.

The axles and bearings could be made of wood. There were wheels long
before there were steel axles.

The ends of a barrel are thin metal. I don't think they would stand up
to stress concentrated in a small area. But, a plywood plate would
distribute the stress and that should work. Mount the axle stub to the
plywood plate and mount the plate to the barrel ends. How to do that? I
am not sure. Perhaps tack weld six or eight bolts, head against the
barrel end, drill the plywood to fit, nut the plywood to the barrel
ends. If you have adhesive, add that too.

Here is some good information on wood bearings. The technical data
should help you design a bearing that you can turn down on a temporary
lathe:

http://www.woodexbearing.com/engdata.php

Rather than trying to keep the bearings sealed from water and mud, I
would pack them full of grease before each use. Rope packing should
suffice to keep the grease in and the dirt out, I think.

Rather than making a simple yoke, make a rectangular frame. That is, a
barrel inside a frame. Mount the yoke to the frame rather than directly
to the axles. If the frame breaks free of the tractor, the frame will
rotate around and dig into the ground, stopping a rampaging roller! If
the barrel breaks free inside the frame, the frame contains it.

To prevent the barrel from drifting around inside the frame, make the
bearings and axles with thrust surfaces.

I would fill the roller with water. I see no need to put mud inside the
barrel. The weight can be adjusted by adding or removing water directly
through the bung hole. How would you remove mud?

Jeremmy, I stress that I have never done any of this!

Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 56 year old fat man.

On 11/30/2012 9:31 AM, Pat wrote:
>
> can you guys help with this?
>
> Hi Gents
>
> I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is
> based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant
> quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'
>

1 of 1 Photo(s)

drum roller.bmp

#16506

From: "Pat" <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 6:04 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

Brilliant Idea! And a good lesson that Jeremmy's drum may not be enough weight

which correlates with my plowing experience.



Pat



--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Phil Bascombe <pbascombe@...> wrote:

>

> greetings

>  

>  i built a roller out of a rolled sheet steel , 36 inch long with 24 in

diameter, (similar to 200 liter drum )I used the 2 rear hubs from a front wheel

drive car and two tires ,front wheel hubs ,bolt on type would work to .

>  

> i mounted the rear hubs on the inside of the  frame I built to attach to the

tractor  , then mounted the tires to the hub

> with the valve stems to the out side , remove air from tires ,pushed

the  tires into the tube (200 liter drum with ends removed ) , bolted frame

and hub together , blew up tires and rolled away .... how ever this did very

little for packing  

> or leveling , so i added a 45 gal drum and filled it with water . over 400 lbs

weight still no great packing or leveling 

>  

> add  sheet of plastic to tire before assembly  push into drum, then inflate,

this should reduce mud infiltration

> I drew a windows paint drawing to try and put a picture to words

> just different options

>  Phil

>  

>  

>

> From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>

> To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 8:52:58 AM

> Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

>

>  

> Exactly what I was thinking, Shannon, you did a much better job of explaining

it.

> On Dec 1, 2012 6:53 AM, "Shannon DeWolfe" <sdewolfe@...> wrote:

>  

> >I am a bit late to the game but here is my two cents worth...

> >

> >Rather than passing an axle through the barrel, I would make stub axles.

> >

> >The axles and bearings could be made of wood. There were wheels long

> >before there were steel axles.

> >

> >The ends of a barrel are thin metal. I don't think they would stand up

> >to stress concentrated in a small area. But, a plywood plate would

> >distribute the stress and that should work. Mount the axle stub to the

> >plywood plate and mount the plate to the barrel ends. How to do that? I

> >am not sure. Perhaps tack weld six or eight bolts, head against the

> >barrel end, drill the plywood to fit, nut the plywood to the barrel

> >ends. If you have adhesive, add that too.

> >

> >Here is some good information on wood bearings. The technical data

> >should help you design a bearing that you can turn down on a temporary

> >lathe:

> >

> >http://www.woodexbearing.com/engdata.php

> >

> >Rather than trying to keep the bearings sealed from water and mud, I

> >would pack them full of grease before each use. Rope packing should

> >suffice to keep the grease in and the dirt out, I think.

> >

> >Rather than making a simple yoke, make a rectangular frame. That is, a

> >barrel inside a frame. Mount the yoke to the frame rather than directly

> >to the axles. If the frame breaks free of the tractor, the frame will

> >rotate around and dig into the ground, stopping a rampaging roller! If

> >the barrel breaks free inside the frame, the frame contains it.

> >

> >To prevent the barrel from drifting around inside the frame, make the

> >bearings and axles with thrust surfaces.

> >

> >I would fill the roller with water. I see no need to put mud inside the

> >barrel. The weight can be adjusted by adding or removing water directly

> >through the bung hole. How would you remove mud?

> >

> >Jeremmy, I stress that I have never done any of this!

> >

> >Mr. Shannon DeWolfe

> >--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a

56 year old fat man.

> >

> >On 11/30/2012 9:31 AM, Pat wrote:

> >>

> >> can you guys help with this?

> >>

> >> Hi Gents

> >>

> >> I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is

> >> based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant

> >> quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'

> >>

> >

> >

>

#16507

From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 6:30 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

xyrth

Send Email

It probably got skipped over, but my first question was the purpose of this drum. I didn't want to waste everybody's time with the below if it wasn't applicable, but seems like it is.

If you're looking for compaction, a smooth drum isn't the way to go.� You're better of "rolling" - the practice of using your tractor's tires to compact, no drum needed, but an extra ton or two of weight might cut down on multiple passes.� Just roll back and forth over the compaction area, shifting over 1/2 a tread each pass.

Force compacts - not weight.� Smooth drums are rarely used outside of asphalt, normal practice is to compact and then cut the dirt to grade.� Vibrator compactors are the tools of choice - which have a hydraulic counterweight inside the drum.� Imagine a 1 ton version of the vibrator in your cel phone, and you've got the idea.�

- Adam

On Dec 2, 2012 10:04 AM, "Pat" <rigmatch@...> wrote:

�

Brilliant Idea! And a good lesson that Jeremmy's drum may not be enough weight which correlates with my plowing experience.

Pat

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Phil Bascombe <pbascombe@...> wrote:
>
> greetings
>
> i built a roller out of a rolled sheet steel , 36 inch long with 24 in diameter, (similar to 200 liter drum )I used the 2 rear hubs from a front wheel drive car and two tires ,front wheel hubs ,bolt on type would work to .
>
> i mounted the rear hubs on the inside of the frame I built to attach to the tractor , then mounted the tires to the hub
> with the valve stems to the out side , remove air from tires ,pushed the tires into the tube (200 liter drum with ends removed ) , bolted frame and hub together , blew up tires and rolled away .... how ever this did very little for packing
> or leveling , so i added a 45 gal drum and filled it with water . over 400 lbs weight still no great packing or leveling
>
> add sheet of plastic to tire before assembly push into drum, then inflate, this should reduce mud infiltration
> I drew a windows paint drawing to try and put a picture to words
> just different options
> Phil
>
>
>
> From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
> To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 8:52:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem
>
>
> Exactly what I was thinking, Shannon, you did a much better job of explaining it.
> On Dec 1, 2012 6:53 AM, "Shannon DeWolfe" <sdewolfe@...> wrote:
>
> >I am a bit late to the game but here is my two cents worth...
> >
> >Rather than passing an axle through the barrel, I would make stub axles.
> >
> >The axles and bearings could be made of wood. There were wheels long
> >before there were steel axles.
> >
> >The ends of a barrel are thin metal. I don't think they would stand up
> >to stress concentrated in a small area. But, a plywood plate would
> >distribute the stress and that should work. Mount the axle stub to the
> >plywood plate and mount the plate to the barrel ends. How to do that? I
> >am not sure. Perhaps tack weld six or eight bolts, head against the
> >barrel end, drill the plywood to fit, nut the plywood to the barrel
> >ends. If you have adhesive, add that too.
> >
> >Here is some good information on wood bearings. The technical data
> >should help you design a bearing that you can turn down on a temporary
> >lathe:
> >
> >http://www.woodexbearing.com/engdata.php
> >
> >Rather than trying to keep the bearings sealed from water and mud, I
> >would pack them full of grease before each use. Rope packing should
> >suffice to keep the grease in and the dirt out, I think.
> >
> >Rather than making a simple yoke, make a rectangular frame. That is, a
> >barrel inside a frame. Mount the yoke to the frame rather than directly
> >to the axles. If the frame breaks free of the tractor, the frame will
> >rotate around and dig into the ground, stopping a rampaging roller! If
> >the barrel breaks free inside the frame, the frame contains it.
> >
> >To prevent the barrel from drifting around inside the frame, make the
> >bearings and axles with thrust surfaces.
> >
> >I would fill the roller with water. I see no need to put mud inside the
> >barrel. The weight can be adjusted by adding or removing water directly
> >through the bung hole. How would you remove mud?
> >
> >Jeremmy, I stress that I have never done any of this!
> >
> >Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
> >--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 56 year old fat man.
> >
> >On 11/30/2012 9:31 AM, Pat wrote:
> >>
> >> can you guys help with this?
> >>
> >> Hi Gents
> >>
> >> I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is
> >> based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant
> >> quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'
> >>
> >
> >
>

#16508

From: "myford100" <myford100@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 8:05 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

myford100

Send Email

It's going to depend on the land.  In the southwest corner of Missouri, USA,

you'll see very large smooth rollers probably made from oil pipe or something,

often filled with water after they get to the field.  When I asked, a farmer

explained that the rocks in the (not very exciting) soil came to the top and

every few years they'd use the rollers to push them back down.  They'd do this

in the fall and the freezing and thawing over the winter would loosen the soil

again.

This works for pastures or hay crops that are harvested multiple times over for

a few years before replanting.   Perhaps obviously, it wouldn't be as useful for

row crops such as corn or soybeans that have to be replanted every year.

Given that compaction isn't good for the roots of growing things, it may be that

smoothing down the surface is all that's wanted in his application.

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...> wrote:

>[snip]

> Force compacts - not weight.  Smooth drums are rarely used outside of

> asphalt, normal practice is to compact and then cut the dirt to grade.

> Vibrator compactors are the tools of choice - which have a hydraulic

> counterweight inside the drum.  Imagine a 1 ton version of the vibrator in

> your cel phone, and you've got the idea.

>

#16509

From: Wes Jones <wes@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 8:55 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

wesjones21

Send Email

At 01:30 PM 12/2/2012, you wrote:

>normal practice is to compact and then cut the dirt to grade.



Not that I have seen.  Normal is to bring the grade up in steps,

compacting each lift before adding more material.  Then grade the

last step off just slightly high.  When it's  compacted it'll be on

grade.  You have to know your materials and how much they compact per

unit of depth.



But the other way, to build high and cut to grade has you moving

material in and then wasting some.  It takes time and effort to move

each yard of material...which is $$$ out the window if you waste by

plan.  And then the last cut leaves the surface loose and needing to

be re-compacted.



Best, wes

#16510

From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 10:06 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

Have to find out for sure, but I think Jeremmy was told to build a roller from a drum. Really too thin material in my mind.

From: Wes Jones <wes@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

At 01:30 PM 12/2/2012, you wrote:
>normal practice is to compact and then cut the dirt to grade.

Not that I have seen. Normal is to bring the grade up in steps,
compacting each lift before adding more material. Then grade the
last step off just slightly high. When it's compacted it'll be on
grade. You have to know your materials and how much they compact per
unit of depth.

But the other way, to build high and cut to grade has you moving
material in and then wasting some. It takes time and effort to move
each yard of material...which is $$$ out the window if you waste by
plan. And then the last cut leaves the surface loose and needing to
be re-compacted.

Best, wes

#16511

From: John Kiely <john_kiely@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2012 10:19 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

john_kiely

Send Email

Sometimes you have to use what is to hand.

But agreed a simple standard drum would be too thin, so in that case you could fill it with concrete and fix a metal shaft through the center?

This would give the weight needed, an axle through the center, if metal is in short supply it need only go some of the way through and even if the outer metal skin starts to break and wear it shouldn't matter to much.

John Kiely (IRL)

From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
To: "multimachine@yahoogroups.com" <multimachine@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 10:06 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

Have to find out for sure, but I think Jeremmy was told to build a roller from a drum. Really too thin material in my mind.

From: Wes Jones <wes@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

#16512

From: tom wright <lectricman@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2012 1:16 am
Subject: RE: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

tawright1941

Send Email

With Mr. Kiely's "using what is at hand" in mind, bearings for his axles in the concrete filled drum could be made of hardwood blocks bored to fit the axles, whatever size they happened to be. They could be made with hand tools if necessary, and if a little rough would "wear in". Once in operation, however, the load stress at the low speeds this thing will be running will harden the bearing surface and give it a glaze-like surface. The harder the wood the better, of course. Hardwood bearings were often used in farm implements before manufactured bearings and synthetic materials became so widely available. I worked in an implement manufacturing plant in the 80's that was still using them in small limited applications because they "hadn't found anything competitive enough to make it worth changing." I have also seen them used as bearings for large wooden drums (10' dia. x 4' wide), but with thin plastic (nylon?) liners similar to the crank shells in an automotive engine. Just sayin'

To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
From: john_kiely@...
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2012 14:19:08 -0800
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

Sometimes you have to use what is to hand.

But agreed a simple standard drum would be too thin, so in that case you could fill it with concrete and fix a metal shaft through the center?

John Kiely (IRL)

Have to find out for sure, but I think Jeremmy was told to build a roller from a drum. Really too thin material in my mind.

From: Wes Jones <wes@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

#16974

From: "Pat" <rigmatch@...>
Date: Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:24 pm
Subject: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

His concrete is drying and he is now looking ahead for a solution to the chuck

back plate problem. He has no way of making a big piston metal casting nor

finding a big piece of cast iron. The best thing I can think of is to weld a

piece of shaft or heavy pipe to a round piece of steel, heat it up to red in a

big charcoal fire and then cover the whole thing with dirt and let it anneal a

few days. After that he will take a long bus trip to a real machine shop.



Better ideas needed!



Pat

#16975

From: Shannon DeWolfe <sdewolfe@...>
Date: Sat Apr 13, 2013 2:17 am
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

s.dewolfe

Send Email

Pat,

I don't know anything about anything but I don't think he needs to be

welding a plate to his spindle. Would not that cause the spindle to

bend? I know bends can be straightened but I would rather not bend my

spindle if I can help it.

How big is the lathe?

Throw over the ways?

Size of the spindle? Threaded nose? Through hole or solid?

Size of the chuck? Dimensions of the register?

How does the chuck mount?

These seem to me relative to the question of how to go about making a

backing plate.

As a start, how about a brake disk? Some disks are made as a unit

forming the disk, top hat, and bearing house all in one package. Some

are made to register on the axle end and are located by the wheel studs.

Either one might be made to work, the former by utilizing the entire

spindle and disk assembly from the donor car keyed or sleeved onto a

driving spindle and the latter by spot welding through the stud holes to

secure it to the axle flange and using the axle as the spindle.

If it is a really big lathe... mmmmmmm.... I don't know; anybody else

got an idea? Do you guys remember that David or someone mentioned using

floating axles from a big truck? I think it was David. I don't recall

how those axles are assembled but I do remember thinking that it would

work for a big lathe.

And Pat, Jeremmy needs to find a way to cast aluminum. It is going to

prove invaluable to him as he proceeds. Using modern alloys (car wheels)

should make castings at least 3/4 as strong as any ferrous casting he

could possibly make. Is there no source of used oil to fuel a furnace?

No source of alloy?

Regards,

Mr. Shannon DeWolfe

--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 57

year old fat man.

On 4/12/2013 8:24 AM, Pat wrote:

>

> His concrete is drying and he is now looking ahead for a solution to

> the chuck back plate problem.

>

#16976

From: Shannon DeWolfe <sdewolfe@...>
Date: Sat Apr 13, 2013 2:53 am
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

s.dewolfe

Send Email

More ideas:



http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?p=234072



Scroll down to post # 91.



Another one:



http://www.homemadetools.net/backing-plate



This doesn't help Jeremmy very much but I thought it was too cool not to

share:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaqEBaXl-o0&feature=youtube_gdata



Who knows? Maybe it will help him. ;-)



Regards,



Mr. Shannon DeWolfe

--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 57

year old fat man.



On 4/12/2013 9:17 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:

>

> Pat,

>

> I don't know anything about anything

>

#16979

From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sat Apr 13, 2013 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

Many, Many thanks Shannon and everybody else. Jeremmy and his gang just have to learn casting to get anything done. Trouble is it is traditional over there to learn by watching somebody do it and he can't find anyone who can do it.

Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminum scrap.

Can anybody find some youtube lessons on 2 hole in the ground casting (or something similar)?

Pat

From: Shannon DeWolfe <sdewolfe@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

More ideas:

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?p=234072

Scroll down to post # 91.

Another one:

http://www.homemadetools.net/backing-plate

This doesn't help Jeremmy very much but I thought it was too cool not to
share:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaqEBaXl-o0&feature=youtube_gdata

Who knows? Maybe it will help him. ;-)

Regards,

Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 57 year old fat man.

On 4/12/2013 9:17 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:
>
> Pat,
>
> I don't know anything about anything
>

#16980

From: Pierre Coueffin <pcoueffin@...>
Date: Sat Apr 13, 2013 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

darkblood_

Send Email

He's a smart guy. �He never watched anyone build a multimachine before. �If he reads Gingery's first book through a couple of times I'm sure he can figure out how to cast aluminum.

On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 12:41 PM, Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:

�

Many, Many thanks Shannon and everybody else. Jeremmy and his gang just have to learn casting to get anything done. Trouble is it is traditional over there to learn by watching somebody do it and he can't find anyone who can do it.

#16981

From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sat Apr 13, 2013 10:18 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

Anyone have the URL for one?

Pat

From: Pierre Coueffin <pcoueffin@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

He's a smart guy. He never watched anyone build a multimachine before. If he reads Gingery's first book through a couple of times I'm sure he can figure out how to cast aluminum.

On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 12:41 PM, Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:

Many, Many thanks Shannon and everybody else. Jeremmy and his gang just have to learn casting to get anything done. Trouble is it is traditional over there to learn by watching somebody do it and he can't find anyone who can do it.

#16982

From: Shannon DeWolfe <sdewolfe@...>
Date: Sat Apr 13, 2013 11:30 pm
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

s.dewolfe

Send Email

I once saw a youtube video of two guys who melted a big pot of aluminum

over fire pit in the ground. I think the bellows was goat skin or ???

Anyway, when it was liquid they picked it up carried a few feet and

poured into another hole in the ground to solidify. I don't recall there

being any kind of mold in that hole. It came to my attention because

someone linked to it to show the complete lack of respect for molten

metal; they were both bear footed and bear handed. I will see if I can

find it tonight.



As far as learning by watching -- there are tons of videos on youtube

showing every process involved. Does Jeremmy not have access to youtube?

If not, I can probably capture a bunch on a thumb drive you can mail to him.



Regards,



Mr. Shannon DeWolfe

--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 57

year old fat man.



On 4/13/2013 2:41 PM, Pat Delany wrote:

> Many, Many thanks Shannon and everybody else. Jeremmy and his gang

> just have to learn casting to get anything done. Trouble is it is

> traditional over there to learn by watching somebody do it and he

> can't find anyone who can do it.

>

> Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminum

> scrap.

>

> Can anybody find some youtube lessons on 2 hole in the ground casting

> (or something similar)?

>

> Pat

>

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> *From:* Shannon DeWolfe <sdewolfe@...>

> *To:* multimachine@yahoogroups.com

> *Sent:* Friday, April 12, 2013 9:53 PM

> *Subject:* Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

>

> More ideas:

>

> http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?p=234072

>

> Scroll down to post # 91.

>

> Another one:

>

> http://www.homemadetools.net/backing-plate

>

> This doesn't help Jeremmy very much but I thought it was too cool not to

> share:

>

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaqEBaXl-o0&feature=youtube_gdata

>

> Who knows? Maybe it will help him. ;-)

>

> Regards,

>

> Mr. Shannon DeWolfe

> --I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I

> am a 57 year old fat man.

>

> On 4/12/2013 9:17 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:

> >

> > Pat,

> >

> > I don't know anything about anything

> >

>

>

>

>

#16983

From: Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...>
Date: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:24 am
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

squonkwater

Send Email

That's a problem here too.

You have to get up very early

to beat the professional scrappers.

Junked car wheels, lawn mower chassis, BBQ

other cast stuff are good sources.

Even aluminum tubing < lawn chairs, window frames>

can be alloyed with copper

to make a decent machinable alloy.

lance

++++

Pat, I have the Gingery series of books

somewhere.

I would donate them to you for mailing to

Africa. RSVP

++++

On Apr 13, 2013, at 7:30 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:

> Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminum
> scrap.
>

#16985

From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:36 am
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

Thanks for book offer. I have one also but sending stuff there is a real hassle. Getting the export code is extremely hard to do since the sequester.

Pat

From: Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

That's a problem here too.

You have to get up very early

to beat the professional scrappers.

Junked car wheels, lawn mower chassis, BBQ

other cast stuff are good sources.

Even aluminum tubing < lawn chairs, window frames>

can be alloyed with copper

to make a decent machinable alloy.

lance

++++

Pat, I have the Gingery series of books

somewhere.

I would donate them to you for mailing to

Africa. RSVP

++++

On Apr 13, 2013, at 7:30 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:

> Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminum
> scrap.
>

#16986

From: "Pat" <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:40 am
Subject: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

What makes it so damn hard is That I just can't get to the post office let alone

stand in line



--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:

>

> Thanks for book offer. I have one also but sending stuff there is a

real hassle. Getting the export code is extremely hard to do since the

sequester.

>

> Pat 

>

>

> ________________________________

>  From: Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...>

> To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 7:24 PM

> Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

>

>

>

>  

> That's a problem here too.

> You have to get up very early

> to beat the professional scrappers.

>

>

> Junked car wheels, lawn mower chassis, BBQ

> other cast stuff are good sources.

>

> Even aluminum tubing < lawn chairs, window frames>

> can be alloyed with copper

> to make a decent machinable alloy.

>

> lance

> ++++

>

> Pat, I have the Gingery series of books

> somewhere.

> I would donate them to you for mailing to

> Africa. RSVP

> ++++

> On Apr 13, 2013, at 7:30 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:

>

> > Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminum 

> >> scrap.

> >>

>

#16990

From: Simon Benjamins <simon_benjamins@...>
Date: Sun Apr 14, 2013 5:42 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

simon.benjamins

Send Email

Hello,

I don't know how this group feels about such a thing, or even what the legal status of such a thing is, but the Gingery books can be found as PDF files on the internet. I think I have downloaded them in the past, and I could probably find them somewhere on my hard disks if I where to search.

regards, Simon Benjamins

2013/4/14 Pat <rigmatch@...>

�

What makes it so damn hard is That I just can't get to the post office let alone stand in line

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for book offer. I have one also but sending stuff there is a real hassle. Getting the export code is extremely hard to do since the sequester.
>
> Pat
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...>

> To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 7:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem
>
>
>
>
> That's a problem here too.
> You have to get up very early
> to beat the professional scrappers.
>
>
> Junked car wheels, lawn mower chassis, BBQ
> other cast stuff are good sources.
>
> Even aluminum tubing < lawn chairs, window frames>
> can be alloyed with copper
> to make a decent machinable alloy.
>
> lance
> ++++
>
> Pat, I have the Gingery series of books
> somewhere.
> I would donate them to you for mailing to
> Africa. RSVP
> ++++
> On Apr 13, 2013, at 7:30 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:
>
> > Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminum
> >> scrap.
> >>
>

#16992

From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
Date: Sun Apr 14, 2013 6:45 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

rigmatch

Send Email

I have been careful to never download a Gingery book because of his importance in the things we do.

I would do it this one time because Jeremmy's family post office box is a 2 day round trip away and he has not been able to get to it in months. Much local mail gets stolen.

Pat

From: Simon Benjamins <simon_benjamins@...>
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem

2013/4/14 Pat <rigmatch@...>

What makes it so damn hard is That I just can't get to the post office let alone stand in line

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for book offer. I have one also but sending stuff there is a realÂ hassle. Getting the export code is extremely hard to do since the sequester.
>
> PatÂ
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...>

> To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 7:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem
>
>
>
> Â
> That's a problem here too.
> You have to get up very early
> to beat the professional scrappers.
>
>
> Junked car wheels, lawn mower chassis, BBQ
> other cast stuff are good sources.
>
> Even aluminum tubing < lawn chairs, window frames>
> can be alloyed with copper
> to make a decent machinable alloy.
>
> lance
> ++++
>
> Pat, I have the Gingery series of books
> somewhere.
> I would donate them to you for mailing to
> Africa. RSVP
> ++++
> On Apr 13, 2013, at 7:30 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:
>
> > Charcoal is available but there is no free or really cheap aluminumÂ
> >> scrap.
> >>
>

First | < Prev | | Last

< Prev Topic | Next Topic >

Yahoo! Groups

Breaking News Visit Yahoo! News for the latest.

The Yahoo! Groups Product Blog

Check it out!

Group Information

Yahoo! Groups Tips

Did you know...

Messages