well I am loking throuh the bussy bee flyer and seen they were on
sale $109.99 reg $199.00 I have all the pulleys and a 1hp 1750rpm
motor off my wood lathe now I need a is the two blocks.

keep the info coming.

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Lefebvre"
<rino_113@y...> wrote:
>
> well I am loking throuh the bussy bee flyer and seen they were
on
> sale $109.99 reg $199.00 I have all the pulleys and a 1hp
1750rpm
> motor off my wood lathe now I need a is the two blocks.
>
> keep the info coming.

Hello,
Nice to see some activity here. I've been collecting parts too.
Found a Ford 200 cu in 6 cylinder block I'm going to try and use.
Keep us posted on how your project goes.

Joe

At first look someone might chuckle, but this group has some great
potential. Engine blocks, heads, wheel bearings, etc. make great
structures and components to build machines with.  When I lived in
California one fellow I knew built a superb tool and cutter grinder
on top of a cast iron block.  He cast babbet bearings for the spindle
and cutter quill. He smoked the spindle and cutter quill with an
accetylene torch, poured the molten metal, and he had a setup that
was so vibration free, that it could easily compete with a 30,000
Japanese tool grinder. He used cast iron pieces from oil boiler
doors, wood stoves, etc. that he scavanged from an old scrap yard. He
put a nice sheet metal cabinet around it, and the end result looked
good enough to look commercial. The beauty of the old cast iron, was
that it never warped one whit. He used to do my resharps at his
grinding shop for all my long high helix end mills in 3/8ths and
1/2inch. The finish quality of his resharps exceeded that of the
brand new Japanese end mills I was buying in the late 80's.

In fact while writing this posting, I am also thinking of how to
build a reciprocating saw using a 94 inch bi-metal broke at the weld
to allow me to cut an engine block into a size that someone my age
could manage without a coronary.  You could also trim the rough edges
on the block for cosmetic purposes.

Just out of curiosity what model year and make engines still have
cast iron blocks?

This is going to be a fun group.

John

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" <kd6wd@c...>
wrote:
>
>
> At first look someone might chuckle, but this group has some great
> potential. Engine blocks, heads, wheel bearings, etc. make great
> structures and components to build machines with.  When I lived in
> California one fellow I knew built a superb tool and cutter grinder
> on top of a cast iron block.  He cast babbet bearings for the
spindle
> and cutter quill. He smoked the spindle and cutter quill with an
> accetylene torch, poured the molten metal, and he had a setup that
> was so vibration free, that it could easily compete with a 30,000
> Japanese tool grinder. He used cast iron pieces from oil boiler
> doors, wood stoves, etc. that he scavanged from an old scrap yard.
He
> put a nice sheet metal cabinet around it, and the end result looked
> good enough to look commercial. The beauty of the old cast iron,
was
> that it never warped one whit. He used to do my resharps at his
> grinding shop for all my long high helix end mills in 3/8ths and
> 1/2inch. The finish quality of his resharps exceeded that of the
> brand new Japanese end mills I was buying in the late 80's.
>
> In fact while writing this posting, I am also thinking of how to
> build a reciprocating saw using a 94 inch bi-metal broke at the
weld
> to allow me to cut an engine block into a size that someone my age
> could manage without a coronary.  You could also trim the rough
edges
> on the block for cosmetic purposes.
>
> Just out of curiosity what model year and make engines still have
> cast iron blocks?
>
> This is going to be a fun group.
>
> John



Hello John,
The listing I have shows that ford made the 300 inline 6 from 1965 to
1996 all of them iron as far as I know.

Joe

After gazing at the block and machine in the picture. It looks like
one of those unused cylinder bores could be used for a homebrew
shaper. Any one have any ideas?

John

John,

That is the whole point - to do multiple things.  I wouldn't be
surprised if he offered that option.

Bobby



On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 04:35:16 -0000, John Labutski <kd6wd@...> wrote:
>
>
> After gazing at the block and machine in the picture. It looks like
> one of those unused cylinder bores could be used for a homebrew
> shaper. Any one have any ideas?
>
> John
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

Hello semua,
Apa kabar?
Kenalkan saya anggota baru di milis ini.
Nama saya Luciana Abednego.
Teman2 biasa memanggil saya Lucy.
Terima kasih karena telah menerima saya menjadi anggota di milis ini.

Salam sukses,
Luciana Abednego.

=====================================================================
Seorang mojang Bandung menghasilkan ribuan $US hanya dari internet!
Baca hasil interview & kiat2nya di :
http://AyoPensiunMuda.com
=====================================================================

Greetings Fellow Members,

Last week I received an e-mail advertisement (I thought from ENCO) for
an inexpensive, small tool post.  I saved the e-mail (I thought) where
I could easily find it when it needed it.  Now I need it and I can't
find where I put it.

If anyone can help, please tell me who was selling it so I can go back
to work on my DIY lathe so I can finish my DIY tube bender so I can
complete my DIY TIG with High-Freque.

This message will be published on lots of groups so please understand.

Best regards,
David Lee

Hello Pat,

Congratulations on a fine job! I like your system for adjusting the
preload on your spindle bearings. It is very simple and I am sure that
it works well. I intend to build a larger version of my "Engine Mill"
and will use your spindle design. I also plan to build a vertical
milling attachment for my next machine.

It would be great if you could post some photos of the lathe turning
between centers and drilling from the tailstock.

I hope that you are doing well with the sales of your CD.

G.A. Ewen

George, starting your project anytime soon? It would be great if you could give
this group a boost and document your project. I have an old copy of Pat's Video
and I think I'm missing a few details, but I'm about ready to give it a go.
Group, any thoughts on engine blocks to look for?
Paul L

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Paul Liebenberg
<lovemountain@s...> wrote:
> George, starting your project anytime soon? It would be great if
you could give this group a boost and document your project. I have
an old copy of Pat's Video and I think I'm missing a few details,
but I'm about ready to give it a go.
> Group, any thoughts on engine blocks to look for?
> Paul L

Hi Paul,
I probably won't start this project untill mid summer. I may build
the vertical milling attachment first and try it on my 1999 "Engine
Mill" in order to work out any design problems before I start on the
bigger better machine.

If you want to see the documentation of my first build you can
contact The Village Press and ask them for a copy of "Build
the "Engine Mill" from the Feb/Mar 2002 edition of Machinist's
Workshop.

George

Look at the Ford straight 6.  Common, cheap, and heavy.  I saw a Dodge
Cummings diesel block a while back and thought that it might work well,
but it made the Ford block look light.

Mike

Certified heathen and reformed pacifist

http://www.p1800s.com

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005, Paul Liebenberg wrote:

> George, starting your project anytime soon? It would be great if you could
give this group a boost and document your
> project. I have an old copy of Pat's Video and I think I'm missing a few
details, but I'm about ready to give it a go.
> Group, any thoughts on engine blocks to look for?
> Paul L
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
___________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>  *  To visit your group on the web, go to:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/
>      
>  *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>     multimachine-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>      
>  *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>

I apologize to everyone for my poor attention to the group. My wife
found that she had breast cancer several months ago and I'm 69 years
old and not in the best of health myself. Our home business
(rigmatch.com) has turned into a 16 hour a day job and is killing us
slowly.

That said, the MultiMachine really works well.

The spindle runs out just .001" even though it was machined on another
lathe. My current project is improve on this by building a simple
thread chasing device that will let the spindle be finish machined on
the MultiMachine itself. A little more work on this and the machine
should be able to cut almost any kind of external thread. I got the
idea for this from a reprint of a 1910 Scientific American article  in
the Lindsay book catalog that came out about 6 weeks ago.

My other project is to improve on the way the vertical slide is
located horizontally. As silly as it looks, the current setup (see
pictures) works fine. It is easy to raise the 400 lb.table .0001"at a
time  I am the first to admit that using the unfinished edges of the
1/2" x 12" plate to locate the slide turns a lot of people off. I'll
put up a crude (what else from me!) drawing of a way to fix this in a
few days. I could not think up an easy way to do this until I realized
that dovetails were not necessary since the outboard jack forces the
vert. slide against  the big engine block

I'll put up some pictures of it turning between centers and also using
the tailstock drill in a week or so if no other disasters happen.

Hello George

I lost my copy of the HSM that had your Engine Mill
article but it was what got me started on my quest to
build a multifunction machine tool that anybody can
afford.

It's strange but at my advanced age I realize that
machine tools are about all that I believe in. The
lathe, shaper and mill built the foundation of our
current standard of living and there is no reason why
a cheap and easy to build multipurpose tool could not
help the 500 million people that need simple water
pumps or the billion people who live on a dollar a day
or less.

Thanks for getting a crazy old man started.

Pat Delany

--- george_ewen <george_ewen@...> wrote:
>
> --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Paul Liebenberg
>
> <lovemountain@s...> wrote:
> > George, starting your project anytime soon? It
> would be great if
> you could give this group a boost and document your
> project. I have
> an old copy of Pat's Video and I think I'm missing a
> few details,
> but I'm about ready to give it a go.
> > Group, any thoughts on engine blocks to look for?
> > Paul L
>
> Hi Paul,
> I probably won't start this project untill mid
> summer. I may build
> the vertical milling attachment first and try it on
> my 1999 "Engine
> Mill" in order to work out any design problems
> before I start on the
> bigger better machine.
>
> If you want to see the documentation of my first
> build you can
> contact The Village Press and ask them for a copy of
> "Build
> the "Engine Mill" from the Feb/Mar 2002 edition of
> Machinist's
> Workshop.
>
> George
>
>
>
>




__________________________________
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I think it's great that you took the idea a step further. Your machine
looks very well done. I am sure that anyone getting your CD will be
very satisfied with the outcome of thier efforts to build it.

I have photos of my Engine Mill doing various opperations that show
it's versatility. If you like I can post them here in the photo
section.

George

George

Send anything that you have! My pictures are a little
slow because every every time that I try to photograph
a new function some old function needs some kind of
change. After 2 years I should be used to this.

Pat


--- george_ewen <george_ewen@...> wrote:
>
> I think it's great that you took the idea a step
> further. Your machine
> looks very well done. I am sure that anyone getting
> your CD will be
> very satisfied with the outcome of thier efforts to
> build it.
>
> I have photos of my Engine Mill doing various
> opperations that show
> it's versatility. If you like I can post them here
> in the photo
> section.
>
> George
>
>
>
>



__________________________________
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Yahoo! Personals - Better first dates. More second dates.
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I have posted some photos of my milling machine at work.

George

george
in the article you had in machinist's workshop magazine for the engine
mill you used ball bearings instead of angle bearings. Im wondering
how well they have held up over time. Im in the middle of making my
mill from a 300 ford 6 cyl.block i was thinking of turning down brake
disks on my lathe for the spindle housing. thanks rick.b

I have had no problems with the bearings in my machine. I think that
you can use whatever kind of bearings you like. Just make sure that
you have a good tight fit on the spindle shaft.

George

Hello,
Anyone care to jump in and comment about what cross slide table to
get ??
Enco has the small table (#201-2826) on sale for $68.95. 12 inch
long, 5 and 1/2
inches wide, 8 inch longitudinal travel, 5 inch cross travel. The
bigger table is $119.95
on sale (#201-2536) 18.5 inches long, 6 inches wide, 11 inch
longitudinal travel, 7.5
inch cross travel.
I don't want to be too cheap, but I am trying to do this on a budget.
Pros and cons ?
Thanks, Joe

Hello,
I'm looking at putting together my machine using a rear hub and
spindle from a
Honda car. Double row angular contact bearing in the hub and then I
plan to use a
addition bearing at the crank journal side.

There are several different bearing layout possibilities.  The Atlas
MFC tabletop
milling machine uses tapered roller bearings. You can see the spindle
design on the
Clausing website.

Keep me posted on your progress Rick, I'm interested in seeing what
other people
are coming up with.

Thanks for posting additional pictures of you mill George, can't wait
to see the
verticle head.

Thanks, Joe

----- Original Message -----

From: joe

To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 8:35 PM

Subject: [multimachine] What table should I get ??

Hello,
Anyone care to jump in and comment about what cross slide table to
get ??
Enco has the small table (#201-2826) on sale for $68.95. 12 inch
long, 5 and 1/2
inches wide, 8 inch longitudinal travel, 5 inch cross travel. The
bigger table is $119.95
on sale (#201-2536) 18.5 inches long, 6 inches wide, 11 inch
longitudinal travel, 7.5
inch cross travel.
I don't want to be too cheap, but I am trying to do this on a budget.
Pros and cons ?
Thanks, Joe

Joe
The larger table seems like it is less likely to
chatter. Maybe its the difference in weight or the
size of the leadscrew. BUT BUT - ENCO shipped mine in
the original Chinese packaging that had just 1/2" of
foam protecting the crossfeed knob. Result was a bent
knob and a broken nut on the acme screw. They don't
stock replacement parts. I'm using mine brazed up
until I eventually lap the dovetails and replace both
acme screws and nuts with recirculating ball screws.

Grizzly has the same table and they may package it
better if you ask.

Pat

--- joe <jalign@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> Anyone care to jump in and comment about what cross
> slide table to
> get ??
> Enco has the small table (#201-2826) on sale for
> $68.95. 12 inch
> long, 5 and 1/2
> inches wide, 8 inch longitudinal travel, 5 inch
> cross travel. The
> bigger table is $119.95
> on sale (#201-2536) 18.5 inches long, 6 inches wide,
> 11 inch
> longitudinal travel, 7.5
> inch cross travel.
> I don't want to be too cheap, but I am trying to do
> this on a budget.
> Pros and cons ?
> Thanks, Joe
>
>
>
>



__________________________________
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Joe
Do you have any pictures of a Honda hub. Don't forget
that you may want to use some kind of a drawbar.

Pat

--- joe <jalign@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I'm looking at putting together my machine using a
> rear hub and
> spindle from a
> Honda car. Double row angular contact bearing in the
> hub and then I
> plan to use a
> addition bearing at the crank journal side.
>
> There are several different bearing layout
> possibilities.  The Atlas
> MFC tabletop
> milling machine uses tapered roller bearings. You
> can see the spindle
> design on the
> Clausing website.
>
> Keep me posted on your progress Rick, I'm interested
> in seeing what
> other people
> are coming up with.
>
> Thanks for posting additional pictures of you mill
> George, can't wait
> to see the
> verticle head.
>
> Thanks, Joe
>
>
>
>



__________________________________
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Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
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If anyone could post pictures of the rear and side of a multimachine it
would be helpful
catfish.

I am just starting to gather parts for a MM.
Some where in a topic I saw information about using a front spindle
for a MM, but I am unable to find it again [I've started putting
putting any information that might remotely be useful in a file.]
Would anyone remenber where this is?
Thanks
catfish.

The more travel the better.  One thing that you might look for is a used
American X Y table.  I found a Palmgren that is very tight listed in the
paper.  Cost less than the shipping on the Enco table and should last
twice as long.

Mike


On Mon, 11 Apr 2005, joe wrote:

>
> Hello,
> Anyone care to jump in and comment about what cross slide table to
> get ??
> Enco has the small table (#201-2826) on sale for $68.95. 12 inch
> long, 5 and 1/2
> inches wide, 8 inch longitudinal travel, 5 inch cross travel. The
> bigger table is $119.95
> on sale (#201-2536) 18.5 inches long, 6 inches wide, 11 inch
> longitudinal travel, 7.5
> inch cross travel.
> I don't want to be too cheap, but I am trying to do this on a budget.
> Pros and cons ?
> Thanks, Joe
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
____________________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>  *  To visit your group on the web, go to:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/
>      
>  *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>     multimachine-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>      
>  *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>

Catfish,

I think I suggested using a Ford Escort front spindle.  If that looks
too small - then go to a Taurus - but the junkyard will probably
charge more.  The Lincoln Continentals that were front wheel drive may
be even bigger.

But you really need to check with the guys who have built one.  They
will have better advice.

Bobby

On Apr 10, 2005 10:00 PM, catfish7251 <cleon@...> wrote:
>
>
> I am just starting to gather parts for a MM.
> Some where in a topic I saw information about using a front spindle
> for a MM, but I am unable to find it again [I've started putting
> putting any information that might remotely be useful in a file.]
> Would anyone remenber where this is?
> Thanks
> catfish.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

I'll try to put some up tommorow.

Pat


--- catfish7251 <cleon@...> wrote:
>
> If anyone could post pictures of the rear and side
> of a multimachine it
> would be helpful
> catfish.
>
>
>
>



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/