mini-painter : Messages : 97752-97774 of 97774

He's gone

--- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, John Moher <mycenius@...> wrote:
>
> This is SPAM - it forwards to online scam shop for pharmaceuticals...
>
> 2009/12/10 James Bowens <ossos_minis@...>:
> > http://karaganovadutuh.blogspot.com
>
>
> Is there a moderator approving new posts by members to the group?
>
> This member needs to be banned...
>
> --
>
> John Moher - Auckland, New Zealand.
> http://wargaming.info/
>

#97773

From: John Moher <mycenius@...>
Date: Wed Dec 9, 2009 11:17 pm
Subject: Re: (unknown)

mycenius

Offline

This is SPAM - it forwards to online scam shop for pharmaceuticals...

2009/12/10 James Bowens <ossos_minis@...>:
> http://karaganovadutuh.blogspot.com


Is there a moderator approving new posts by members to the group?

This member needs to be banned...

--

John Moher - Auckland, New Zealand.
http://wargaming.info/

#97772

From: James Bowens <ossos_minis@...>
Date: Wed Dec 9, 2009 8:52 pm
Subject: (No subject)

ossos_minis

Offline

http://karaganovadutuh.blogspot.com

#97771

From: "singersr" <rsingers@...>
Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:51 pm
Subject: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

singersr

Offline

>I also swear by Master’s Brush Cleaner �" cleans and conditions
> natural Bristolbrushes.  My “main” brush is almost 5years old
> �" paints great, looks mostly new.

I second the recommendation for Masters brush cleaner.  I injured myself and had
to take a break from painting.  When I came back to it all my brushes were
stiff, even tho' I always clean them after use.

I thought I was going to have to completely replace them.  I bought some Masters
cleaner from and art store while I was getting a new 0 ( I like to swap between
two 0s while painting a mini).

The majority of the brushes cleaned up like new.  The ones that didn't I dropped
into my ultrasonic cleaner and then recleaned with the masters.  They came up
like new as well.

If you're going to buy good brushes then you should also get some Masters
cleaner.

#97770

From: Chris Moran <chris.moran@...>
Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:47 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

tsnake303

Online Now

On Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 1:41 PM, Paul <proethele@...> wrote:
> I got so frustrated with my results thinning & blending the craft paints, and
the poor quality of the brushes, that I threw everything into a closet and
forgot about it for two years. Later a friend convinced me to buy some Reaper &
Vallejo paints & Army Painter brushes (since moved on to Winsor & Newton Series
7), and the difference was night & day for me. More power to those who can work
with them (I wish I could get away with spending 20x less on my paint!) but the
extra cost is worth the decrease in frustration for me...
>

Did you switch both the paint and the brushes at the same time?
I can say that my biggest issues have mostly been to do with the
brushes. I take care of the brushes, but they never last as long as I
need... I like using 10/0, 20/0 and even 30/0 for details that I
cannot figure out how others are using 1 or 0 size brushes for, but
they don't last. The only issues I've had with some paint colors was
the obvious flakey texture they end up with when I thin them, but I've
decided I can live with it.

Chris
--
� c �h �r �i �s �. �m �o �r �a �n �@ �g �m �a �i �l �. �c �o �m
b �u �t � y �o �u � �k �n �o �w � �t �h �a �t � �a �l �r �e �a �d �y

Read my mind @ http://iamchrismoran.blogspot.com/

#97764

From: Gurth <gurth@...>
Date: Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:07 am
Subject: Re: Goblin Spider Rider

gurthisme

Offline

According to TitaniasWing@..., on 19-11-2009 22:40 the word on the
street was...

> There is no rule that says you have to prime black.

Unfortunately, most people brought up in the GW tradition don't seem to
look any further than what they're told by that company ...

--
Gurth@... - http://www.understairs.nl | www.plasticwarriors.org
    Dat is zoveel beter dan domweg gelukkig zijn
-> Fearless Leader of shadowrn.understairs.nl * Triangle Virtuoso  <-
                -> kampioen in "herinneringen ophalen" <-
-> Incubated into the First Church of the Sqooshy Ball, 21-05-1998 <-

#97763

From: "RoninKelt" <deltadave@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:48 pm
Subject: Re: Shadows

roninkelt

Offline

Look at this as a good opportunity to learn color mixing.  Red and Blue can be
mixed with a tiny bit of green to make a decent black.  Warm blacks with more
red, cool blacks with more blue. Lighten your blue with a bit of white for
midtones, and use white with a bit of blue for highlights.

I'm assuming that your paint set is the primary colors - Red, Yellow, Green,
Blue and White at least.

--- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, "abethemad" <abethemad@...> wrote:
>
> I have a limited amount of paints (6 to exact) I base coated the figure
> (a troll axer from hordes) with the dark blue basecoat, unfortunately
> it is also my darkest colour and I don't have black. What is the best
> way to produce shadows. I was going to try and put more layers of the basecoat
> in the shadowed area. Really thinned down of course. Any suggestions,
> will this work?
>

#97762

From: TitaniasWing@...
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:41 pm
Subject: Re: Shadows

hjblush

Offline

What colors do you have?

Heather





-----Original Message-----
From: abethemad <abethemad@...>
To: mini-painter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, Oct 17, 2009 11:03 am
Subject: [mini-painter] Shadows





I have a limited amount of paints (6 to exact) I base coated the figure
(a troll axer from hordes) with the dark blue basecoat, unfortunately
it is also my darkest colour and I don't have black. What is the best
way to produce shadows. I was going to try and put more layers of the basecoat
in the shadowed area. Really thinned down of course. Any suggestions,
will this work?









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#97761

From: TitaniasWing@...
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:40 pm
Subject: Re: Goblin Spider Rider

hjblush

Offline

For game quality figs, you might try dry brushing white over the black primer
on the areas you are trying to get green.  It will save you some frustration
trying to cover the black and give you a heads up on your shading.

FYI - this is why I don't prime black, I don't like the way the colors turn out
over the black and it's too frustrating trying to see details and get everything
covered.  There is no rule that says you have to prime black.  My painting
improved dramatically once I stopped priming with black.

Heather





-----Original Message-----
From: KD8JSQ <michael@...>
To: mini-painter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, Nov 3, 2009 9:29 pm
Subject: [mini-painter] Goblin Spider Rider





Hello all.  This is my first post here.  I bought Warhammer Skull Pass some
weeks ago and the painting is coming along.  Right now I'm painting the Spider
Riders.  Man these are hard.  After a base coat of black I painted the fangs,
eyes of the spiders and now I'm painting the bodies of the goblins green.  I
believe I'm doing a wash as I'm not being concerned with the details right now. 
Just getting the thing green trying to make sure I get all the body parts.

Any suggestion would be incredibly helpful....

Michael









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#97760

From: "Jeff" <spaceghost61241@...>
Date: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:43 am
Subject: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

spaceghost61241

Offline

Welcome Erik,

*beware: long spiel*
Craft paints tend to have less pigment per volume, larger pigment particles and
filler material added when compared to higher quality miniature paints. This
isn't a matter of opinion, it's a matter of economics. Pigment costs money, with
some pigment costing significantly more than others (Natural vs. Synthetic,
Brilliant Primary colors vs. Earth tones). Raw pigments, as a general rule, are
not suitable for miniature painting as is because they're simply too coarse.
This requires grinding, which requires time and thus money. The finer the
particle size required, the more expensive it will be. Also, in order to avoid a
thick buildup, miniature paints require a higher concentration of pigment to
provide opaque coverage in fewer coats. Another factor to consider is that
miniature paints are specialty paints and thus are made in very small batches
when compared to other types of paint, which also raises their cost.

Does all of this justify their significantly higher costs? It depends on your
needs. Are you selling display pieces at a few hundred a pop, or are you just
slapping paint on your miniatures to save yourself the shame of fielding an
unpainted army at your local game store, or are you somewhere in between? For
most painters, I think they can get by just fine with craft paints.

I will second what Heather suggested and recommend the Folk Art Artists'
Pigments. The only thing to take into consideration is that some of the colors
have poor opacity and poor coverage. If memory serves me correctly, Napthol
Crimson, Alizarin Crimson, True Burgundy, Asphaltum and Dioxazine Purple are the
worst offenders. Oddly enough, the yellows have good coverage, especially
Turner's Yellow and Medium Yellow. While this line may not have the color
selection of the Apple Barrel or regular Folk Art lines, color mixing will not
be a problem as they are single pigment paints. In my experience, I have noticed
that the color of these paints can change noticeably from drying initially to
drying completely over a period of weeks, losing some vibrancy. This happens to
some degree with all paint, but I found it more of an issue with the Artists'
Pigment line. While I wouldn't use these for my display work, I have no issue
using them on gaming pieces.

That's my 2 cents, and then some.

Jeff

--- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, "Erik" <kakita_kentei@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm new to the group, but I've been a gamer/painter for years. I
> have used a lot of different brands of paint in that time.
>
> I used to love the Armory paints, because of the diverse ranges of
> colors they had. Wish they hadn't stopped production.
>
> However, recently I chose to get back into painting, and I had a
> limited budget. I looked around a local Arts & Crafts store (AC
> Moore) and found Plaid's Apple Barrel colors and Folk Art colors. I
> also found these at Wal-Mart.
>
> Of specific note I found their gel blending medium and pearlescent
> white to be fairly handy. They also make sealers.
>
> At US$1.49 per 2 ounce bottle, they seemed to be a reasonable price.
>
> I bought some and tried them and got reasonable results. Have anyone
> here tried these?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Erik
>

#97759

From: "abethemad" <abethemad@...>
Date: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:03 pm
Subject: Shadows

abethemad

Offline

I have a limited amount of paints (6 to exact) I base coated the figure
(a troll axer from hordes) with the dark blue basecoat, unfortunately
it is also my darkest colour and I don't have black. What is the best
way to produce shadows. I was going to try and put more layers of the basecoat
in the shadowed area. Really thinned down of course. Any suggestions,
will this work?

#97758

From: "KD8JSQ" <michael@...>
Date: Wed Nov 4, 2009 2:29 am
Subject: Goblin Spider Rider

micisa_enter...

Offline

Hello all.  This is my first post here.  I bought Warhammer Skull Pass some
weeks ago and the painting is coming along.  Right now I'm painting the Spider
Riders.  Man these are hard.  After a base coat of black I painted the fangs,
eyes of the spiders and now I'm painting the bodies of the goblins green.  I
believe I'm doing a wash as I'm not being concerned with the details right now. 
Just getting the thing green trying to make sure I get all the body parts.

Any suggestion would be incredibly helpful....


Michael

#97757

From: "Joe" <acmegadgetfactory@...>
Date: Sun Nov 1, 2009 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

acmegadgetfa...

Offline

I have to agree with you.  I've been painting for about 30 years (mainly the
mass production armies for gaming).  I've done somewhere between 3000 and 4000
figures.  I use mostly Polly Scale, Vallejo, plus a few other hobby paints
(mainly to get a specific shade or effect).  For me, technique matters more than
the cost of the paint.  What I use works with MY technique.  I probably wouldn't
know what to do with artists oils.

That  being said, I really have to admire the results and effects that I've seen
with some of the professional painters.  Next year at Origins I plan on spending
some time in the painting events trying to learn to do better.

A year or so ago I bought a DBA army painted by someone who was a lot better
than I was.  I studied his work and have improved mine somewhat.  I hope to
improve more.  I may be an old dog, but I can learn some new tricks.


--- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, "Mr.Y" <raysr_579@...> wrote:
>> I think that this discussion is, for the most part, coming from those of
> you who paint a low volume of very high quality work; meaning several
> miniatures a week that are outstanding pieces. On the other hand, there
> are folks, like me, who plod along getting little lead armies ready for
> battle, later today I will complete the basing of the fifty or so minis
> I finished sealing last night. My best quality is no where near the
> artful pieces you produce.
>
> Now having said that, I do find that there are certainly differences in
> the various brands of paint. On my table is a various array of eight
> different brands of both craft and miniature paints, from Craft Smart to
> Vallejo (and a few pots of somewhat old Howard Hues). I had to
> `learn' to use the miniature paints after starting off with the
> craft paints.
>
> In the end though, the bottom line comes as what results do you, the
> painter, achieve using the paints.
>
> For budding mass producers, like me, those differences don't really
> matter. Pop it on the palette, thin as needed, and slap it on. For the
> diorama / single piece artist, I can see where those differences would
> come into play. BUT! You don't have to have miniature paints to
> achieve excellent results. I go back to Steve's original statement:
>
> "There are a few minis painters who are at a level where I think the
> more expensive paint may be worth 20 times as much as Americana, but if
> you're just starting out, I don't think it will make a lick of
> difference. The techniques you employ make much more difference than the
> paint. I'd rather spend more on brushes and a good wet palette (I'd
> NEVER go back to dry palette) than on paints."
>
> This is true, unless you are at that level, then as Heather said:
>
> "I paint professionally.............. I know that they are "old
> school" it's what I learned with - they just don't work for me now."
>
> Robert Y.
>
>
> --- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hamilton <billwerk@> wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, Oct 21, 2009 at 10:33 PM, Steve Myers seomarketer@ wrote:
> > > Heather,
> > > While I'm glad you found a paint that you like, I have to say that
> my
> > > experience doesn't mirror your own.  I have tried various paint
> lines which
> > > claim that they're specially formulated for miniatures.  This
> includes
> > > Reaper, Citadel, and others.  I spend a lot on miniatures, so I
> really
> > > didn't mind spending more on paints than I do now.  In side-by-side
> > > comparison of miniature paint vs. good quality craft paint, in
> practice, I
> > > just didn't see any real difference in results.
> > >
> >
> > I haven't used every paint out there; mainly Citadel, Vallejo and
> > various craft paints.  I've found the Vallejos I purchased (from a
> > local hobby store) to not be thinnable or mixable at all.  Even with
> > the bottles of mixed colors (tans and browns and such) I have to stir
> > them every time I want to load the brush because the pigments separate
> > out that quickly.  With some I can watch it happen.
> >
> > I expect the paints are all much the same, and the differences people
> > are seeing are due to transport and storage issues long before we
> > bought them.  If they've sat in a truck overnight in freezing weather,
> > or in the heat of the day under a blazing sun, the paints are likely
> > to be ruined due to the abuse and the end users will have all sorts of
> > problems.  Since this is likely to happen to a single delivery rather
> > than all deliveries, one person sees brand X fail while someone else
> > sees brand Y fail, and both generalize based on their experience.
> >
> > --
> > -Bill Hamilton
> >
>

#97756

From: "Mutt" <muttman111@...>
Date: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:10 pm
Subject: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

muttman111

Offline

I have used the Plaid folk art paints with some great success, be it that they
can be a little thicker than Citedel or Reaper master series. If you add a drop
of water one at a time till you get the desired thickness. As long as you put a
varnish on the mini after it dries there should be no problem with flaking. Just
my opinion but one from someone whom has to drive an hour to get to the closest
hobby shop.

#97755

From: "Paul" <proethele@...>
Date: Sun Oct 25, 2009 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

proethele

Offline

I know some people are able to achieve great results with craft paint (all the
miniatures featured on Steve's website are far better than anything I could do),
but I just can't get 'em to work for me - maybe I just didn't get a good brand
(most of the ones I bought were Anita's, I think).  When I decided to try
painting minis, I read through Steve's entire site and followed everything to a
"T" - The ONLY piece of advice that wasn't outstanding in my opinion was "buy
craft paint & a cheap pack of assorted nylon brushes if you're just starting
out".  I got so frustrated with my results thinning & blending the craft paints,
and the poor quality of the brushes, that I threw everything into a closet and
forgot about it for two years.  Later a friend convinced me to buy some Reaper &
Vallejo paints & Army Painter brushes (since moved on to Winsor & Newton Series
7), and the difference was night & day for me.  More power to those who can work
with them (I wish I could get away with spending 20x less on my paint!) but the
extra cost is worth the decrease in frustration for me...

--- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, Steve Myers <seomarketer@...> wrote:
>
> Many miniature painters will try to convince you that only miniature paints
> work if you want decent results.  Don't believe them.  It's not like they're
> trying to get you to buy their paints or anything.... :P
> Do the math.  I buy Americana paints for $.77 each when they go on sale
> (frequently) at Hobby Lobby.  My local hobby shop sells miniature paint for
> almost 5 times as much.  Then, realize that the Americana paints are 2 oz.
> containers, while the minis paints are .5 oz, 4 times as much.  So a little
> multiplication tells you that mini paints cost 20 times as much as craft
> paints.
> All of the miniatures at www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com, my hobby site,
> were painted with craft paint. (GASP!  True confessions.)  There are a few
> minis painters who are at a level where I think the more expensive paint may
> be worth 20 times as much as Americana, but if you're just starting out, I
> don't think it will make a lick of difference.  The techniques you employ
> make much more difference than the paint.  I'd rather spend more on brushes
> and a good wet palette (I'd NEVER go back to dry palette) than on paints.  I
> love the fantastic selection that Americana gives.
> In my experience, minis paints do cover a little better than a good quality
> craft paint can.  However, since better minis painters almost always thin
> their paint, that seems to matter less, from what I've seen.  I have tried
> to force myself to convert to minis paints, but just can't sacrifice the
> selection and price for slightly better coverage.  IMHO, if you prime
> properly, coverage is often less of a big deal.
> BTW, if you have flow problems with hobby paints, add a drop of liquid
> dishwashing fluid to the water you thin with and use with your wet palette.
>  It breaks the surface tension and paint washes work MUCH better, even with
> cheap paint.
> As always, your results may vary, so go with what works best for you.
>
> Take Care!
> -Steve Myers
> seomarketer@...
> (801) 282-2778
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:21 PM, <dnscox@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > i use these wal-mart paints and hobby lobby paints almost exclusivly and
> > have great results thining and flowing are important but the results can be
> > nearly as good as the pro paints probably as good if i were a better painter
> > sealers on the otherhand i would go with something different vallejo or one
> > i fouund at hobby lobby is Liquitex soluvar matte final picture varnish for
> > canvas painting over acryls new to the site hope to post some minis soon
> > hope this helps --- In
mini-painter@yahoogroups.com<mini-painter%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > mysticwolfstds@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm not an expert mini painter, only completed one mini to date and have
> > two
> > > others started but I've painted other things for years. For mini painting
> >
> > > I've been using mini specific paints, with craft paints used on bases
> > only.
> > > I've always kept a good supply of craft paint on hand for the various
> > things I
> > > do and I've found Anita's paints to cover just as well as the others and
> > that
> > > I can pick up for 3 for $1 when on sale at AC Moore. They have a great
> > color
> > > selection and don't cost near as much as the other brands. :)
> > >
> > > Rambling here. I use Reaper Master Series Paints to paint minis and I
> > have a
> > > few Vallejo paints in my paint box as well. Haven't had the opportunity
> > to
> > > purchase any of the others yet but I like these two brands. My sister
> > uses
> > > mostly GW mini paints with lots of craft paints included as her budget
> > doesn't
> > > always allow the purchase of mini specific paints. I've read of others
> > that use
> > > craft paints as well as mini specific paints. I guess it's really up to
> > the
> > > individual and how well they can work the paints. I've been dying to try
> > out
> > > my oils but just haven't had the right work area since I moved and I have
> > no
> > > where pet proof to have those types of projects.
> > >
> > > Tracey
> > >
> > > In a message dated 3/26/2008 11:15:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > kakita_kentei@ writes:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm new to the group, but I've been a gamer/painter for years. I
> > > have used a lot of different brands of paint in that time.
> > >
> > > I used to love the Armory paints, because of the diverse ranges of
> > > colors they had. Wish they hadn't stopped production.
> > >
> > > However, recently I chose to get back into painting, and I had a
> > > limited budget. I looked around a local Arts & Crafts store (AC
> > > Moore) and found Plaid's Apple Barrel colors and Folk Art colors. I
> > > also found these at Wal-Mart.
> > >
> > > Of specific note I found their gel blending medium and pearlescent
> > > white to be fairly handy. They also make sealers.
> > >
> > > At US$1.49 per 2 ounce bottle, they seemed to be a reasonable price.
> > >
> > > I bought some and tried them and got reasonable results. Have anyone
> > > here tried these?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Erik
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Tracey Bartone
> > >
> > > **Race the wind my friend and carry my hopes and dreams with you for you
> > are
> > > my inspiration**
> > >
> > > **One that races the wind, two that call to the moon and one that soars
> > far
> > > above. I walk a guided path.**
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
> >
> > > Home.
> > > (
> >
http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom000300\
00000001
> > )
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> -
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

#97754

From: "silenzzzz" <freddy.lea@...>
Date: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:48 pm
Subject: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

silenzzzz

Offline

i have tried many of the higher end paints and all i can say they offer is a
little better coverage ... even when thinned ... (something about the pigment
size and quantity) ... but i rarely use it .. most of the times it is the .50
containers from the local Hobby Lobby for me ...

--- In mini-painter@yahoogroups.com, Steve Myers <seomarketer@...> wrote:
>
> Many miniature painters will try to convince you that only miniature paints
> work if you want decent results.  Don't believe them.  It's not like they're
> trying to get you to buy their paints or anything.... :P
> Do the math.  I buy Americana paints for $.77 each when they go on sale
> (frequently) at Hobby Lobby.  My local hobby shop sells miniature paint for
> almost 5 times as much.  Then, realize that the Americana paints are 2 oz.
> containers, while the minis paints are .5 oz, 4 times as much.  So a little
> multiplication tells you that mini paints cost 20 times as much as craft
> paints.
> All of the miniatures at www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com, my hobby site,
> were painted with craft paint. (GASP!  True confessions.)  There are a few
> minis painters who are at a level where I think the more expensive paint may
> be worth 20 times as much as Americana, but if you're just starting out, I
> don't think it will make a lick of difference.  The techniques you employ
> make much more difference than the paint.  I'd rather spend more on brushes
> and a good wet palette (I'd NEVER go back to dry palette) than on paints.  I
> love the fantastic selection that Americana gives.
> In my experience, minis paints do cover a little better than a good quality
> craft paint can.  However, since better minis painters almost always thin
> their paint, that seems to matter less, from what I've seen.  I have tried
> to force myself to convert to minis paints, but just can't sacrifice the
> selection and price for slightly better coverage.  IMHO, if you prime
> properly, coverage is often less of a big deal.
> BTW, if you have flow problems with hobby paints, add a drop of liquid
> dishwashing fluid to the water you thin with and use with your wet palette.
>  It breaks the surface tension and paint washes work MUCH better, even with
> cheap paint.
> As always, your results may vary, so go with what works best for you.
>
> Take Care!
> -Steve Myers
> seomarketer@...
> (801) 282-2778
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:21 PM, <dnscox@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > i use these wal-mart paints and hobby lobby paints almost exclusivly and
> > have great results thining and flowing are important but the results can be
> > nearly as good as the pro paints probably as good if i were a better painter
> > sealers on the otherhand i would go with something different vallejo or one
> > i fouund at hobby lobby is Liquitex soluvar matte final picture varnish for
> > canvas painting over acryls new to the site hope to post some minis soon
> > hope this helps --- In
mini-painter@yahoogroups.com<mini-painter%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > mysticwolfstds@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm not an expert mini painter, only completed one mini to date and have
> > two
> > > others started but I've painted other things for years. For mini painting
> >
> > > I've been using mini specific paints, with craft paints used on bases
> > only.
> > > I've always kept a good supply of craft paint on hand for the various
> > things I
> > > do and I've found Anita's paints to cover just as well as the others and
> > that
> > > I can pick up for 3 for $1 when on sale at AC Moore. They have a great
> > color
> > > selection and don't cost near as much as the other brands. :)
> > >
> > > Rambling here. I use Reaper Master Series Paints to paint minis and I
> > have a
> > > few Vallejo paints in my paint box as well. Haven't had the opportunity
> > to
> > > purchase any of the others yet but I like these two brands. My sister
> > uses
> > > mostly GW mini paints with lots of craft paints included as her budget
> > doesn't
> > > always allow the purchase of mini specific paints. I've read of others
> > that use
> > > craft paints as well as mini specific paints. I guess it's really up to
> > the
> > > individual and how well they can work the paints. I've been dying to try
> > out
> > > my oils but just haven't had the right work area since I moved and I have
> > no
> > > where pet proof to have those types of projects.
> > >
> > > Tracey
> > >
> > > In a message dated 3/26/2008 11:15:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > kakita_kentei@ writes:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm new to the group, but I've been a gamer/painter for years. I
> > > have used a lot of different brands of paint in that time.
> > >
> > > I used to love the Armory paints, because of the diverse ranges of
> > > colors they had. Wish they hadn't stopped production.
> > >
> > > However, recently I chose to get back into painting, and I had a
> > > limited budget. I looked around a local Arts & Crafts store (AC
> > > Moore) and found Plaid's Apple Barrel colors and Folk Art colors. I
> > > also found these at Wal-Mart.
> > >
> > > Of specific note I found their gel blending medium and pearlescent
> > > white to be fairly handy. They also make sealers.
> > >
> > > At US$1.49 per 2 ounce bottle, they seemed to be a reasonable price.
> > >
> > > I bought some and tried them and got reasonable results. Have anyone
> > > here tried these?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Erik
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Tracey Bartone
> > >
> > > **Race the wind my friend and carry my hopes and dreams with you for you
> > are
> > > my inspiration**
> > >
> > > **One that races the wind, two that call to the moon and one that soars
> > far
> > > above. I walk a guided path.**
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
> >
> > > Home.
> > > (
> >
http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom000300\
00000001
> > )
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> -
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

#97753

From: George Bachman <gamerviix@...>
Date: Tue Oct 20, 2009 12:22 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art paint lines?

gamerviix

Offline

I use craft paints for about 80% of any given miniature.
For a nice black I use Model Master Aircraft Interior Black - from Testors -
flows nice and yields a soft sheen.
For a bright chrome type finish I go with Testors silver - or some other brand.
I've found silver craft paints don't has the shine I like.
So for a few aspects I use paints that require your brush to be cleaned with
thinner.
For almost everthing else I use craft paints.
I still have some trouble with solid white or solid yellow colors - they always
seem a little translucent or weak to me, so I end up just using those colors for
edge details and the like.
Craft colors, for me, provide a deep color.
Price is a big factor as well.

George B
Maryland

________________________________
From: Steve Myers <seomarketer@...>
To: mini-painter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, October 19, 2009 6:42:19 PM
Subject: Re: [mini-painter] Re: Opinions on Plaid's Apple Barrel and Folk Art
paint lines?

�
Many miniature painters will try to convince you that only miniature paints
work if you want decent results. Don't believe them. It's not like they're
trying to get you to buy their paints or anything.... :P
Do the math. I buy Americana paints for $.77 each when they go on sale
(frequently) at Hobby Lobby. My local hobby shop sells miniature paint for
almost 5 times as much. Then, realize that the Americana paints are 2 oz.
containers, while the minis paints are .5 oz, 4 times as much. So a little
multiplication tells you that mini paints cost 20 times as much as craft
paints.
All of the miniatures at www.how-to-paint- miniatures. com, my hobby site,
were painted with craft paint.. (GASP! True confessions. ) There are a few
minis painters who are at a level where I think the more expensive paint may
be worth 20 times as much as Americana, but if you're just starting out, I
don't think it will make a lick of difference. The techniques you employ
make much more difference than the paint. I'd rather spend more on brushes
and a good wet palette (I'd NEVER go back to dry palette) than on paints. I
love the fantastic selection that Americana gives.
In my experience, minis paints do cover a little better than a good quality
craft paint can. However, since better minis painters almost always thin
their paint, that seems to matter less, from what I've seen. I have tried
to force myself to convert to minis paints, but just can't sacrifice the
selection and price for slightly better coverage. IMHO, if you prime
properly, coverage is often less of a big deal.
BTW, if you have flow problems with hobby paints, add a drop of liquid
dishwashing fluid to the water you thin with and use with your wet palette.
It breaks the surface tension and paint washes work MUCH better, even with
cheap paint.
As always, your results may vary, so go with what works best for you.

Take Care!
-Steve Myers
seomarketer@ gmail..com
(801) 282-2778

On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:21 PM, <dnscox@hotmail.. com> wrote:

>
>
> i use these wal-mart paints and hobby lobby paints almost exclusivly and
> have great results thining and flowing are important but the results can be
> nearly as good as the pro paints probably as good if i were a better painter
> sealers on the otherhand i would go with something different vallejo or one
> i fouund at hobby lobby is Liquitex soluvar matte final picture varnish for
> canvas painting over acryls new to the site hope to post some minis soon
> hope this helps --- In mini-painter@ yahoogroups. com<mini-painter%
40yahoogroups. com>,
> mysticwolfstds@ ... wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm not an expert mini painter, only completed one mini to date and have
> two
> > others started but I've painted other things for years. For mini painting
>
> > I've been using mini specific paints, with craft paints used on bases
> only.
> > I've always kept a good supply of craft paint on hand for the various
> things I
> > do and I've found Anita's paints to cover just as well as the others and
> that
> > I can pick up for 3 for $1 when on sale at AC Moore. They have a great
> color
> > selection and don't cost near as much as the other brands. :)
> >
> > Rambling here. I use Reaper Master Series Paints to paint minis and I
> have a
> > few Vallejo paints in my paint box as well. Haven't had the opportunity
> to
> > purchase any of the others yet but I like these two brands. My sister
> uses
> > mostly GW mini paints with lots of craft paints included as her budget
> doesn't
> > always allow the purchase of mini specific paints. I've read of others
> that use
> > craft paints as well as mini specific paints.. I guess it's really up to
> the
> > individual and how well they can work the paints. I've been dying to try
> out
> > my oils but just haven't had the right work area since I moved and I have
> no
> > where pet proof to have those types of projects.
> >
> > Tracey
> >
> > In a message dated 3/26/2008 11:15:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > kakita_kentei@ ... writes:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm new to the group, but I've been a gamer/painter for years. I
> > have used a lot of different brands of paint in that time.
> >
> > I used to love the Armory paints, because of the diverse ranges of
> > colors they had. Wish they hadn't stopped production.
> >
> > However, recently I chose to get back into painting, and I had a
> > limited budget. I looked around a local Arts & Crafts store (AC
> > Moore) and found Plaid's Apple Barrel colors and Folk Art colors. I
> > also found these at Wal-Mart.
> >
> > Of specific note I found their gel blending medium and pearlescent
> > white to be fairly handy. They also make sealers.
> >
> > At US$1.49 per 2 ounce bottle, they seemed to be a reasonable price.
> >
> > I bought some and tried them and got reasonable results. Have anyone
> > here tried these?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Erik
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Tracey Bartone
> >
> > **Race the wind my friend and carry my hopes and dreams with you for you
> are
> > my inspiration* *
> >
> > **One that races the wind, two that call to the moon and one that soars
> far
> > above. I walk a guided path.**
> >
> >
> >
> > ************ **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
>
> > Home.
> > (
> http://home. aol.com/diy/ home-improvement -eric-stromer? video=15?
ncid=aolhom00030 000000001
> )
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>

-

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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