I finally got around to tramming the head on my HF 33686, and had
to put about .020 shim on one side to get to within about .004 from
side to side. Not done tweeking yet, just wondering if that is fairly
normal or not. I'm sweeping about a 6" arc.
Paul in OKC

Someone on one of our forums posted a link to the Naval Electricity
and Electronics series from 1998 in downloadable pdf form. I got the
first part and got ready to go back and cant find the link. Would
like to do the mods but thought it would be nice to learn some basics
first. May send off list.
Ring a bell with anyone?
Thanks,
Steve

Is the counterweight concrete in a wastepaper basket? If so, what is
the size of the basket?
Beautiful job.
Rupert

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "kmslinda" <gerry@z...> wrote:
> I just completed my Z-Axis Counter Weight
> on my Wholesale Tool ZX-7045 (RF 45 Clone).
> The head now moves up & down very smoothly.
>
> I posted some photos in the WT-ZX7045 album.
>
> Gerry

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Rupert N. Evans" <r-evans4@u...>
wrote:
> Is the counterweight concrete in a wastepaper basket? If so, what
is
> the size of the basket?
> Beautiful job.
> Rupert

The plastic box is a Pro Plan plastic cat food container filled
with Quickete (about 1 & 1/2 80# bags). The weight is 120#. The
size of the container is 11 x 9 x 14 deep. The 5/16 eye bolts
are threaded into a 1/2 dia rod that goes thru the box. I installed
two 5/16 long nuts on the bottom of the eye bolts and extended
the threaded rod thru the bottom of the box. This held the
hardware in place while pouring the Quickete. I can also add
more weight if necessary to the bottom of the container. The
cables and pulleys are garage door parts from Home Depot. The
whole thing cost under 20 bucks minus the aluminum.

Gerry

Hi All,
Quick question, what is the diameter and pitch of the ACME screw on
your particular mill (x and y axis please)?  Please provide the model
number and manufacturer of your mill.  I am trying to determine if
there is a standard out there and what most of you all have.

Thanks much.

John

The HF 33686 has a 1" acme screw ..


----- Original Message -----
From: "camfambmw540" <jcameron@...>
To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:48 AM
Subject: [mill_drill] Size of ACME screw on your mill = ???


> Hi All,
> Quick question, what is the diameter and pitch of the ACME screw on
> your particular mill (x and y axis please)?  Please provide the model
> number and manufacturer of your mill.  I am trying to determine if
> there is a standard out there and what most of you all have.
>
> Thanks much.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

I bought a brand new clone 45. Then a Bridgeport.
Sold that 45 and kicking myself for getting it in the
first place. If you have the space for a full size
mill, by all means go for it.  When the machine is
in place it really doesn't take up a whole lot more
room than a M/D on a stand.

-Damon

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> Thanks for everyones thoughts on this. I am in Winston-Salem,NC. We
> have the furniture industry and a fair amount of auto racing nearby.
> I think you have convinced me to wait for a while anyway. Still
> thinking about an RF45 or clone too. The Bridgeport that went for
> 1800 at auction was a very nice looking machine, very clean and new
> looking, tho I don't know what year it was from. I have never used
> any mill, so I will continue to lurk and watch and learn.
> Steve
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "D Covey" <DCOVEY@D...> wrote:
> >
> > Kinda where you are at.  They can be a rare find in some parts of
> the
> > country ans as such seem to bring a higher price.
> >
> >      Dennis
> >
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...> wrote:
> > > Both of those prices are insane.  You should be able to get a
> > > full size knee machine for under $1800.  I landed a very
> > > clean '82 Bport 2J (varispeed) with power feed for much less
> > > than that.
> > >
> > > -Damon
> > >
> > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> > > > Thanks to everyone who responded re the weight of the
> Bridgeport.
> > I
> > > > have looked at another one and would like to solicit thoughts
> re
> > > > value and relative ease of resale.A fellow nearby has two
> mills,
> > a
> > > > Bridgeport M head from the 40's? that seems to be working
well.
> > MT2
> > > > taper, few collets, 6" vise and powerfeed on the left right
> axis
> > for
> > > > $1200. The other mill he is selling is a Jet from the early
> 70's
> > > > model 830 knee mill R8 with a few collets and vise for $1800.
> > Both
> > > > seem a little high, but I wonder if I am being unrealistic.
> Went
> > to
> > > > the auction mentioned earlier and one of the Bridgies went for
> > 1850,
> > > > a 2 hp series 1 j head. the other was missing a few handles,
> also
> > a
> > > j
> > > > head , and went for 800. thanks in advance for any thoughts
> > anyone
> > > > can give.
> > > > Steve

Went and looked at a couple of mills at a used machinery dealer
today. He had 3, a Bridgie, a gorton, and another that looked a lot
like the Bridgie (a supermatic or something like that I think). All
from the late 70's early 80's in very nice condition with 2 axis dro,
a heavy Kurt vice and a good holddown and collet set. Wants $3K for
my choice. Didn't seem too bad a value, but think I will keep
watching. My reason for looking at the smaller mills, ie ru45, is the
lighter weight and greater ease of dealing with the machine(750# vs
2000). It does seem that it takes about 5'x5' regardless.
Thanks,
Steve

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...> wrote:
>
> I bought a brand new clone 45. Then a Bridgeport.
> Sold that 45 and kicking myself for getting it in the
> first place. If you have the space for a full size
> mill, by all means go for it.  When the machine is
> in place it really doesn't take up a whole lot more
> room than a M/D on a stand.
>
> -Damon
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> > Thanks for everyones thoughts on this. I am in Winston-Salem,NC.
We
> > have the furniture industry and a fair amount of auto racing
nearby.
> > I think you have convinced me to wait for a while anyway. Still
> > thinking about an RF45 or clone too. The Bridgeport that went for
> > 1800 at auction was a very nice looking machine, very clean and
new
> > looking, tho I don't know what year it was from. I have never
used
> > any mill, so I will continue to lurk and watch and learn.
> > Steve
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "D Covey" <DCOVEY@D...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Kinda where you are at.  They can be a rare find in some parts
of
> > the
> > > country ans as such seem to bring a higher price.
> > >
> > >      Dennis
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...> wrote:
> > > > Both of those prices are insane.  You should be able to get a
> > > > full size knee machine for under $1800.  I landed a very
> > > > clean '82 Bport 2J (varispeed) with power feed for much less
> > > > than that.
> > > >
> > > > -Damon
> > > >
> > > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> > > > > Thanks to everyone who responded re the weight of the
> > Bridgeport.
> > > I
> > > > > have looked at another one and would like to solicit
thoughts
> > re
> > > > > value and relative ease of resale.A fellow nearby has two
> > mills,
> > > a
> > > > > Bridgeport M head from the 40's? that seems to be working
> well.
> > > MT2
> > > > > taper, few collets, 6" vise and powerfeed on the left right
> > axis
> > > for
> > > > > $1200. The other mill he is selling is a Jet from the early
> > 70's
> > > > > model 830 knee mill R8 with a few collets and vise for
$1800.
> > > Both
> > > > > seem a little high, but I wonder if I am being unrealistic.
> > Went
> > > to
> > > > > the auction mentioned earlier and one of the Bridgies went
for
> > > 1850,
> > > > > a 2 hp series 1 j head. the other was missing a few
handles,
> > also
> > > a
> > > > j
> > > > > head , and went for 800. thanks in advance for any thoughts
> > > anyone
> > > > > can give.
> > > > > Steve

Steve,

Don't forget the larger table size on the knee mills will require more floor
space.

As far as weight goes, it is easy (I've done it) to dismantle a Bridgeport
into manageable pieces and move it, then reassemble it.

Took 3 people 3 hours to tear down my Bridgeport, move it into my house,
down the basement steps, and reassemble into a working mill again.

Heaviest part of the Bridgeport is 720 lbs.  That is the column.  Everything
else is about half that weight or less.

Marv

On 3/5/04 12:11 AM, "Steve" <swh@...> wrote:

> Went and looked at a couple of mills at a used machinery dealer
> today. He had 3, a Bridgie, a gorton, and another that looked a lot
> like the Bridgie (a supermatic or something like that I think). All
> from the late 70's early 80's in very nice condition with 2 axis dro,
> a heavy Kurt vice and a good holddown and collet set. Wants $3K for
> my choice. Didn't seem too bad a value, but think I will keep
> watching. My reason for looking at the smaller mills, ie ru45, is the
> lighter weight and greater ease of dealing with the machine(750# vs
> 2000). It does seem that it takes about 5'x5' regardless.
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...> wrote:
>>
>> I bought a brand new clone 45. Then a Bridgeport.
>> Sold that 45 and kicking myself for getting it in the
>> first place. If you have the space for a full size
>> mill, by all means go for it.  When the machine is
>> in place it really doesn't take up a whole lot more
>> room than a M/D on a stand.
>>
>> -Damon
>>
>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
>>> Thanks for everyones thoughts on this. I am in Winston-Salem,NC.
> We
>>> have the furniture industry and a fair amount of auto racing
> nearby.
>>> I think you have convinced me to wait for a while anyway. Still
>>> thinking about an RF45 or clone too. The Bridgeport that went for
>>> 1800 at auction was a very nice looking machine, very clean and
> new
>>> looking, tho I don't know what year it was from. I have never
> used
>>> any mill, so I will continue to lurk and watch and learn.
>>> Steve
>>>
>>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "D Covey" <DCOVEY@D...> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Kinda where you are at.  They can be a rare find in some parts
> of
>>> the
>>>> country ans as such seem to bring a higher price.
>>>>
>>>>      Dennis
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...> wrote:
>>>>> Both of those prices are insane.  You should be able to get a
>>>>> full size knee machine for under $1800.  I landed a very
>>>>> clean '82 Bport 2J (varispeed) with power feed for much less
>>>>> than that.
>>>>>
>>>>> -Damon
>>>>>
>>>>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
>>>>>> Thanks to everyone who responded re the weight of the
>>> Bridgeport.
>>>> I
>>>>>> have looked at another one and would like to solicit
> thoughts
>>> re
>>>>>> value and relative ease of resale.A fellow nearby has two
>>> mills,
>>>> a
>>>>>> Bridgeport M head from the 40's? that seems to be working
>> well.
>>>> MT2
>>>>>> taper, few collets, 6" vise and powerfeed on the left right
>>> axis
>>>> for
>>>>>> $1200. The other mill he is selling is a Jet from the early
>>> 70's
>>>>>> model 830 knee mill R8 with a few collets and vise for
> $1800.
>>>> Both
>>>>>> seem a little high, but I wonder if I am being unrealistic.
>>> Went
>>>> to
>>>>>> the auction mentioned earlier and one of the Bridgies went
> for
>>>> 1850,
>>>>>> a 2 hp series 1 j head. the other was missing a few
> handles,
>>> also
>>>> a
>>>>> j
>>>>>> head , and went for 800. thanks in advance for any thoughts
>>>> anyone
>>>>>> can give.
>>>>>> Steve
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Light weight is always an issue.
  If you only want to move the mill, get the 45. If you want
a rigid setup, then the b'port is the choice.

  Moving the mill makes the 45 look nice. But it's not like you
can lift 800lbs yourself, versus the 2000lbs for the Bridgeport.

Are you moving this into a basement, garage or what?

-Damon


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> Went and looked at a couple of mills at a used machinery dealer
> today. He had 3, a Bridgie, a gorton, and another that looked a lot
> like the Bridgie (a supermatic or something like that I think). All
> from the late 70's early 80's in very nice condition with 2 axis
dro,
> a heavy Kurt vice and a good holddown and collet set. Wants $3K for
> my choice. Didn't seem too bad a value, but think I will keep
> watching. My reason for looking at the smaller mills, ie ru45, is
the
> lighter weight and greater ease of dealing with the machine(750# vs
> 2000). It does seem that it takes about 5'x5' regardless.
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...> wrote:
> >
> > I bought a brand new clone 45. Then a Bridgeport.
> > Sold that 45 and kicking myself for getting it in the
> > first place. If you have the space for a full size
> > mill, by all means go for it.  When the machine is
> > in place it really doesn't take up a whole lot more
> > room than a M/D on a stand.
> >
> > -Damon
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> > > Thanks for everyones thoughts on this. I am in Winston-
Salem,NC.
> We
> > > have the furniture industry and a fair amount of auto racing
> nearby.
> > > I think you have convinced me to wait for a while anyway. Still
> > > thinking about an RF45 or clone too. The Bridgeport that went
for
> > > 1800 at auction was a very nice looking machine, very clean and
> new
> > > looking, tho I don't know what year it was from. I have never
> used
> > > any mill, so I will continue to lurk and watch and learn.
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "D Covey" <DCOVEY@D...>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Kinda where you are at.  They can be a rare find in some
parts
> of
> > > the
> > > > country ans as such seem to bring a higher price.
> > > >
> > > >      Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <damonfg@y...>
wrote:
> > > > > Both of those prices are insane.  You should be able to get
a
> > > > > full size knee machine for under $1800.  I landed a very
> > > > > clean '82 Bport 2J (varispeed) with power feed for much
less
> > > > > than that.
> > > > >
> > > > > -Damon
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> > > > > > Thanks to everyone who responded re the weight of the
> > > Bridgeport.
> > > > I
> > > > > > have looked at another one and would like to solicit
> thoughts
> > > re
> > > > > > value and relative ease of resale.A fellow nearby has two
> > > mills,
> > > > a
> > > > > > Bridgeport M head from the 40's? that seems to be working
> > well.
> > > > MT2
> > > > > > taper, few collets, 6" vise and powerfeed on the left
right
> > > axis
> > > > for
> > > > > > $1200. The other mill he is selling is a Jet from the
early
> > > 70's
> > > > > > model 830 knee mill R8 with a few collets and vise for
> $1800.
> > > > Both
> > > > > > seem a little high, but I wonder if I am being
unrealistic.
> > > Went
> > > > to
> > > > > > the auction mentioned earlier and one of the Bridgies
went
> for
> > > > 1850,
> > > > > > a 2 hp series 1 j head. the other was missing a few
> handles,
> > > also
> > > > a
> > > > > j
> > > > > > head , and went for 800. thanks in advance for any
thoughts
> > > > anyone
> > > > > > can give.
> > > > > > Steve

Hi,
-
I've got a Sears "Drill Bit Grinding Attachment" Model No. 351.252920 I wan=
t to setup and use. I recently bought it at the local Sears store. It is sim=
ilar to the U.S. General item , probably made by them but with the SEARS log=
o added.
-
I used one of these units years ago in a tool room I was working in and wit=
h very good results. It was used on the side of the wheel not on the periphe=
ry. We freehand rough ground the drills first, then used this little fixture=
  to get balanced cutting edges. I don't care to blow up and disintergrate a =
wheel. Does anybody here know what wheel to use?
-
I was thinking of calling NORTON and picking their brains.
-
Sears' 2002-2003 catalog designates Catalog Number 64536 as their wheel to =
get (a 60 grit, 6" dia. x 1" thick wheel) but that wheel is no longer availa=
ble via their catalog or to Sears.com as neither is the fixture in their rec=
ent 2004/2005 catalog.
-
Looks like Drill Doctor® took over their previous line.
-
Thanks in advance.
-
Kurt
{:{
-
(Sorry if equal signs get added into text, it is not deliberate by me. It i=
s a Yahoo! / WEBTV incompatability issue. At my Yahoo! Group I edit them out=
  before the final OK to post them.)

I just bought a Homier 03988, where all the info on the outside of
the box is in inches.  However, the X and Y dials are calibrated 0 to
2.5 per turn.  I assume this means it is a metric machine although I
don't recall this being mentioned by other Homier purchasers.

I would prefer to work in inches so what would be the best way to do
that on this machine?

John

One rotation of the handwheel would be .0039" which is close enuf to 40 thou
as to make little difference. No machinist I know goes strictly by the
graduations on the wheels.  They all measure twice & cut once.
Mert

MertBaker@...
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <moran03@...>
To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: [mill_drill] Homier 03988 -- Metric ??


>
> I just bought a Homier 03988, where all the info on the outside of
> the box is in inches.  However, the X and Y dials are calibrated 0 to
> 2.5 per turn.  I assume this means it is a metric machine although I
> don't recall this being mentioned by other Homier purchasers.
>
> I would prefer to work in inches so what would be the best way to do
> that on this machine?
>
> John
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>   a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
>   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
>
>   b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>   mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>   c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>

For those of you interested, I just installed
a Mitutoyo ADS-2 DRO on my Wholesale Tool ZX7045
mill (RF-45 Clone). There are some photos in
the WT-ZX7045 folder. A DRO sure makes life a
lot easier, no more counting turns!!! I got
it from Penn Tool for $599 and free freight.

Gerry

Yes, this will go into a basement. Has to go thru a double door. I
will have to drive it around to the basement across grass, get it
unloaded onto the slab under the deck and then get it thru the std
doors and resetup. My buddy has a small tractor with a bucket on the
front that we can use to lift parts onto dollies on the slab.
Would probably put it back together with a chain hoist attached to
the ceiling or see if I can borrow an engine hoist.
Thanks,
Steve

> Are you moving this into a basement, garage or what?
>
> -Damon

Good deal!   Yes, a GRO will change your life.  :-)

Marv

On 3/7/04 10:37 PM, "kmslinda" <gerry@...> wrote:

> For those of you interested, I just installed
> a Mitutoyo ADS-2 DRO on my Wholesale Tool ZX7045
> mill (RF-45 Clone). There are some photos in
> the WT-ZX7045 folder. A DRO sure makes life a
> lot easier, no more counting turns!!! I got
> it from Penn Tool for $599 and free freight.
>
> Gerry
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

John-
The brute force method would be to change the lead screws and lead nuts
as well as the dials.
Seems like the better move would be to use a DRO.  Check out the
ShumaTech DRO at his web
site http://www.shumatech.com/dro/ and at the group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ShumaTech/
Mike

>I would prefer to work in inches so what would be the best way to do
>that on this machine?
>
>

My Homier 03988 mill's table moves 2.5mm = 0.0984 per turn.  The
machine is still in my garage awaiting its move to the basement but I
used an indicator to verify the 0.0984/turn.

I have not used a mill previously and had assumed that I could use
the handwheels to lay out bolt holes fairly precisely, sort of like a
CAM with me as the servo.  Looks like I'll need to use indicators
when I do this.  Perhaps the money I saved buying the Homier will now
be spent on readouts...

My Homier 7x12 has the slight error you mention, where 40 on the dial
is actually 0.03937.  I operate the lathe as you suggest by measuring
frequently and using successive approximations, where each
approximation is smaller as I approach the target size.  Since the
distances involved are generally small this approach works fine.

The percentage error with the mill is the same but the distances are
greater and I expect the measurements to be more difficult to make so
successive approximation will be a bit harder.

I guess my pre-conception of how I would utilize the mill will now
require some adjustment :-)

John





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "mertbaker" <MertBaker@p...> wrote:
> One rotation of the handwheel would be .0039" which is close enuf
to 40 thou
> as to make little difference. No machinist I know goes strictly by
the
> graduations on the wheels.  They all measure twice & cut once.
> Mert
>
> MertBaker@p...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John" <moran03@e...>
> To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 8:19 PM
> Subject: [mill_drill] Homier 03988 -- Metric ??
>
>
> >
> > I just bought a Homier 03988, where all the info on the outside of
> > the box is in inches.  However, the X and Y dials are calibrated
0 to
> > 2.5 per turn.  I assume this means it is a metric machine
although I
> > don't recall this being mentioned by other Homier purchasers.
> >
> > I would prefer to work in inches so what would be the best way to
do
> > that on this machine?
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
> ------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >   a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
> >
> >   b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >   mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >   c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> >
> >

20 dollar digital dro's mounted on the table takes all the guesswork out
:O)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <moran03@...>
To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:12 AM
Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Homier 03988 -- Metric ??


> My Homier 03988 mill's table moves 2.5mm = 0.0984 per turn.  The
> machine is still in my garage awaiting its move to the basement but I
> used an indicator to verify the 0.0984/turn.
>
> I have not used a mill previously and had assumed that I could use
> the handwheels to lay out bolt holes fairly precisely, sort of like a
> CAM with me as the servo.  Looks like I'll need to use indicators
> when I do this.  Perhaps the money I saved buying the Homier will now
> be spent on readouts...
>
> My Homier 7x12 has the slight error you mention, where 40 on the dial
> is actually 0.03937.  I operate the lathe as you suggest by measuring
> frequently and using successive approximations, where each
> approximation is smaller as I approach the target size.  Since the
> distances involved are generally small this approach works fine.
>
> The percentage error with the mill is the same but the distances are
> greater and I expect the measurements to be more difficult to make so
> successive approximation will be a bit harder.
>
> I guess my pre-conception of how I would utilize the mill will now
> require some adjustment :-)
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "mertbaker" <MertBaker@p...> wrote:
> > One rotation of the handwheel would be .0039" which is close enuf
> to 40 thou
> > as to make little difference. No machinist I know goes strictly by
> the
> > graduations on the wheels.  They all measure twice & cut once.
> > Mert
> >
> > MertBaker@p...
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John" <moran03@e...>
> > To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 8:19 PM
> > Subject: [mill_drill] Homier 03988 -- Metric ??
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I just bought a Homier 03988, where all the info on the outside of
> > > the box is in inches.  However, the X and Y dials are calibrated
> 0 to
> > > 2.5 per turn.  I assume this means it is a metric machine
> although I
> > > don't recall this being mentioned by other Homier purchasers.
> > >
> > > I would prefer to work in inches so what would be the best way to
> do
> > > that on this machine?
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------
> > ------
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >   a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > >   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
> > >
> > >   b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >   mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >   c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

I bought one Friday at the sale in Lynchburg VA. I have it apart cleaning it out
(was fairly grit free) and a quick look came out 5 turns for 10cm IIRC. But I
will check the lead screw carefully and get back later this eve. Mine has 0-4
marks on the handles I was going to figure it out later as to what that actually
meant.

There is a big disconnect between the makers and importers of all these chiense
machines, if you are going to ask for inch machines be willing to pay a bit
extra for inch screws or just leave them all metric, I can deal with it.

Caution if you try to take the handles off be warned there is a roll pin under
the label, the nut on the end doesnt actually hold the handle on, duh!

FYI They do occasionally have the big mill/dill with the mt3 spindle on the
trucks in small quanitys. I just missed one, you have to ask the boss of the
show, the lackys never put them out.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: John <moran03@...>
Sent: Mar 8, 2004 10:12 AM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Homier 03988 -- Metric ??

My Homier 03988 mill's table moves 2.5mm = 0.0984 per turn.  The
machine is still in my garage awaiting its move to the basement but I
used an indicator to verify the 0.0984/turn.

I have not used a mill previously and had assumed that I could use
the handwheels to lay out bolt holes fairly precisely, sort of like a
CAM with me as the servo.  Looks like I'll need to use indicators
when I do this.  Perhaps the money I saved buying the Homier will now
be spent on readouts...

My Homier 7x12 has the slight error you mention, where 40 on the dial
is actually 0.03937.  I operate the lathe as you suggest by measuring
frequently and using successive approximations, where each
approximation is smaller as I approach the target size.  Since the
distances involved are generally small this approach works fine.

The percentage error with the mill is the same but the distances are
greater and I expect the measurements to be more difficult to make so
successive approximation will be a bit harder.

I guess my pre-conception of how I would utilize the mill will now
require some adjustment :-)

John





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "mertbaker" <MertBaker@p...> wrote:
> One rotation of the handwheel would be .0039" which is close enuf
to 40 thou
> as to make little difference. No machinist I know goes strictly by
the
> graduations on the wheels.  They all measure twice & cut once.
> Mert
>
> MertBaker@p...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John" <moran03@e...>
> To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 8:19 PM
> Subject: [mill_drill] Homier 03988 -- Metric ??
>
>
> >
> > I just bought a Homier 03988, where all the info on the outside of
> > the box is in inches.  However, the X and Y dials are calibrated
0 to
> > 2.5 per turn.  I assume this means it is a metric machine
although I
> > don't recall this being mentioned by other Homier purchasers.
> >
> > I would prefer to work in inches so what would be the best way to
do
> > that on this machine?
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
> ------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >   a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
> >
> >   b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >   mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >   c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> >
> >





Yahoo! Groups Links

I originally posted part of this as a reply to the 03988 thread oops.
Here it is with more info.

http://www.homier.com/itemdetail.asp?i=03989&c=11

I bought one Friday at the sale in Lynchburg VA. I have it apart
cleaning it out (was fairly grit and red china grease free).

I measured the screw over 20 turns and it was 8 cm. So 4 mm a turn, so
that is why the "dials" are marked in 4 major divisions of 40 ticks in
all. Each "tick" is .1 mm then.

Yey its metric, and not one of those almost inch, metric things. There
is a big disconnect between the makers and importers of all these
Chinese machines, if you are going to ask for inch machines be willing
to pay a bit extra for inch screws or just leave them all metric, I can
deal with it.

Caution if you try to take the handles off be warned there is a roll pin
under the label, the nut on the end doesn't actually hold the handle on,
duh! I am going to try leaving out the single tooth lock washer and use
shimming and tightening the nuts to fine adjust the end play. you can
squeeze the roll pins and get a bit of adjustment range. I took one of
the labels off to get the table off.

At first I had lumpy belt-itis. I let it run for several hours, took the
belts off to let them cool. That about cured it.

The box and the ads said the motor was 3/4 hp, the motor plate says 1/2.
Not that big a deal really but they should get that right. The motor did
look nice inside and ran smooth. The spindle is MT2 BTW. The chuck looks
like a nice one, has a strange safety ring to hold the chuck on the
adapter.

Also you cant get the saddle off with out knocking out the cross feed
nut from its seat. If you have a open bottom stand be sure to catch it
when it falls. Putting that back with the unit sitting on the bench was
interesting to say the least.

The over all fit and finish I cant complain about for 200$. After
removing the "gluey" grease on the screws and a quick scrape to detail
the ways it moves real nice.

FYI They do occasionally have the big mill/dill with the mt3 spindle on
the trucks in small quantities. I just missed one, you have to ask the
boss of the show, the lackeys never put them out.

Mark

At 2000 lbs consider yourself lucky, A K and T 2CH I was wanting and a
good deal weighs 4700 actual. and its not a lot bigger than a BP. But
its one rigid beast.

Mark

jcameron@... wrote:

> Check this out
> http://www.frugalmachinist.com/bpwts.html
>
> has all the weights of the individual parts of a BP series I
>
> Have fun....I just got mine a month ago...love her !!!!!
>
> John
> Chicago Burbs
>
>
> Quoting Steve <swh@...>:
>
>
>>Does anyone know the approximate weight of the Bridgeport series 1
>>knee mill. Have a chance to get one, and want to know if I can get it
>>home.
>>Thanks,
>>Steve
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi Mark,

Look here for a pretty painless y axis travel improvement for your 03989
$199.99 drill mill.

Maybe you can follow this link, but you may have to cut and paste, and you
do have to be a member.

<http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/homiershoptools/lst?.dir=/Easy+Y-Axis+
Travel+Gains+for+03989&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yaho
o.com/>

Mike Nash

Hi,

  does anyone know who sells motors for milling machines?

thanks

Seems like I saw a reprint of the bupers manual in Barnes and Noble
the other day.

     Dennis

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <swh@t...> wrote:
> Someone on one of our forums posted a link to the Naval
Electricity
> and Electronics series from 1998 in downloadable pdf form. I got
the
> first part and got ready to go back and cant find the link. Would
> like to do the mods but thought it would be nice to learn some
basics
> first. May send off list.
> Ring a bell with anyone?
> Thanks,
> Steve

I ordered a large order a couple of weeks back and got the FS14 free
UPS shipping code to work-It is now expired and I need more
items...anybody know the current free shipping promo code??

Thanks,

Mike

NRS34 is good until the end of March, I believe.

--C.S.

>I ordered a large order a couple of weeks back and got the FS14 free
>UPS shipping code to work-It is now expired and I need more
>items...anybody know the current free shipping promo code??
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike

Hey MD veterans. I was wondering how to effectively and safely
secure my workpiece using the common clamping kit. I do not have a
vise, and dont plan to get one any time soon, and besides, this
square bar is about 13 inches long and 2 by 2 inches. I was told that
it would be clamped if I wanted to cut 1/8th inch slots along the
sides of it. 1 slot on each side, from end to end.

   I know I am a rookie, but I shure could use some help or
instruction on which pieces to use and where to place the clamps,
etc. I did a search on the net and got no details on this method. I
am sketchy to attempt a pass the way I have it clamped down right
now. I have the two largest triangular step pieces holding the two
largest clamps up, equal to the bars height. That is about 2 inches
high. Now these clamps are both on one side of the bar, because if
not, it would be in the way of machining the slot. My question is how
tight am I supposed to clamp this workpiece down? I took a hammer and
hit the work on one side with a nice little tap, medium tap I should
say, and it moves slightly. Is this normal??? I dont want to attempt
to cut the slot, and have the workpiece move. I need to slice a 1/8
inch wide slot, that is 1/8th of an inch deep. Oh I also need to ask
if I should take this cut in one pass, or take it in two passes, each
1/16th of an inch deep, to achieve my 1/8th inch depth requirement???
One last question that is related to my project here, how would I
make shure that the depth stays the same from start to finish of the
slot cutting operation? Would I just set up the workpiece, lightly
clamp, eyeball the lining up of everything, and with the machine off,
take a practice pass from start to end of workpiece? You know, with
the cutter "kissing" the work at the start and watching it as it
travels along the work and then to the end making shure it is still
kissing the surface?

   I hope I dont get flamed for asking such a beginner question. I
just need to start somewhere and want to learn the correct way to use
my machine. Someone please school me or send me a link on details of
how to hold a workpiece similar to what I have described. I did a
search on this board and came up on nothing relating to work holding
or clamping kits. Thanks in advance.

David

lopan1875 wrote:

>   Hey MD veterans. I was wondering how to effectively and safely
> secure my workpiece using the common clamping kit. I do not have a
> vise, and dont plan to get one any time soon, and besides, this
> square bar is about 13 inches long and 2 by 2 inches. I was told that
> it would be clamped if I wanted to cut 1/8th inch slots along the
> sides of it. 1 slot on each side, from end to end.

Sounds fair enough.

>   I know I am a rookie, but I shure could use some help or
> instruction on which pieces to use and where to place the clamps,
> etc. I did a search on the net and got no details on this method. I
> am sketchy to attempt a pass the way I have it clamped down right
> now. I have the two largest triangular step pieces holding the two
> largest clamps up, equal to the bars height.

You want to set the clamps so that the clamp part is just slightly angled down.


That is about 2 inches
> high. Now these clamps are both on one side of the bar, because if
> not, it would be in the way of machining the slot. My question is how
> tight am I supposed to clamp this workpiece down? I took a hammer and
> hit the work on one side with a nice little tap, medium tap I should
> say, and it moves slightly. Is this normal???

Tighten it more. Cutting forces can get pretty high. Are you using anything
between the table and your part to protect the table?

I dont want to attempt
> to cut the slot, and have the workpiece move. I need to slice a 1/8
> inch wide slot, that is 1/8th of an inch deep. Oh I also need to ask
> if I should take this cut in one pass, or take it in two passes, each
> 1/16th of an inch deep, to achieve my 1/8th inch depth requirement???

Cutting depth depends on many things. I would go closer to .020" per pass
and see how things feel.

> One last question that is related to my project here, how would I
> make shure that the depth stays the same from start to finish of the
> slot cutting operation? Would I just set up the workpiece, lightly
> clamp, eyeball the lining up of everything, and with the machine off,
> take a practice pass from start to end of workpiece? You know, with
> the cutter "kissing" the work at the start and watching it as it
> travels along the work and then to the end making shure it is still
> kissing the surface?

Do you have a Dial test indicator?

You are planning on cutting the slots along the top of the bar?

Does your bar need to be certain finished dimensions?

There is a lot going on here. I don't think I can do it justice in a single
e-mail. Hopefully some other guys can chime in and really take an honest
wack at your question.

>   I hope I dont get flamed for asking such a beginner question. I
> just need to start somewhere and want to learn the correct way to use
> my machine. Someone please school me or send me a link on details of
> how to hold a workpiece similar to what I have described. I did a
> search on this board and came up on nothing relating to work holding
> or clamping kits. Thanks in advance.
>
> David


Whereabouts are you at David? If you were near Iowa, I'd say stop by and I
can learn you up some things in a few hours :)