Skip to search.

Breaking News Visit Yahoo! News for the latest.

×Close this window

mill_drill · Bench mill/drills

The Yahoo! Groups Product Blog

Check it out!

Group Information

  • Members: 3633
  • Category: Crafts
  • Founded: Jan 4, 2001
  • Language: English
? Already a member? Sign in to Yahoo!

Yahoo! Groups Tips

Did you know...
Hear how Yahoo! Groups has changed the lives of others. Take me there.

Messages

Advanced
Messages Help
Messages 32386 - 32415 of 33194   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Messages: Show Message Summaries Sort by Date ^  
#32386 From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:32 pm
Subject: RE: Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)
dana_hague
Send Email Send Email
 
Strange... perhaps Yahoo isn't allowing direct linking any more?  Look for it in the files section, it is there.


At 09:16 PM 2/16/2013, Dan and Marlene Coleman wrote:
 

Link did not work for me.

 

Dan

 

From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dana_hague
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 7:08 PM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mill_drill] Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)

 

 

I uploaded "how to get screw from spindle.doc" to the files section:

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/GCsgUSGDmJl1wOXrCMP5vmjOJCcCQol1kW1UkaoQ2r6pMudhOC3bx3ORfnGeS715q6ttcW-U9hIkoAN7uAWOwiOh9z4KVl54/How%20to%20get%20screw%20from%20spindle.doc>

This was sent to me by the importer when I called asking on how to access the set screws in the spindle that ride in the collet's keyway. Apparently they get asked how to do it so often that they prepared this file.

The screw on mine was kind of shmushed (that's a technical term) making it hard to line the collet up on it. Although there's a slot in the quill (why?), you can't get to the screw from there; you have to take the spindle apart.

When I got mine apart, it wasn't even recognizable as a screw (if that's what indeed it was). It was filed flush, and staked in place with six centerpunch marks. I drilled it out, then put it all back together without putting a new screw in.



--
The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that
heralds new discoveries, is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather,
'hmm.... that's funny...'
--Isaac Asimov

#32387 From: Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:46 pm
Subject: RE: Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)
druid_noibn
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Dana,
 
Received notifation that you posted the file on the mii_drill site - got it .  Thanks, nice job.
 
Be well,
DBN  

--- On Sun, 2/17/13, Dana Hague <d-m-hague@...> wrote:

From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@...>
Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, February 17, 2013, 8:32 AM

Strange... perhaps Yahoo isn't allowing direct linking any more?  Look for it in the files section, it is there.


At 09:16 PM 2/16/2013, Dan and Marlene Coleman wrote:
 

Link did not work for me.

 

Dan

 

From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dana_hague
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 7:08 PM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mill_drill] Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)

 

 

I uploaded "how to get screw from spindle.doc" to the files section:

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/GCsgUSGDmJl1wOXrCMP5vmjOJCcCQol1kW1UkaoQ2r6pMudhOC3bx3ORfnGeS715q6ttcW-U9hIkoAN7uAWOwiOh9z4KVl54/How%20to%20get%20screw%20from%20spindle.doc>

This was sent to me by the importer when I called asking on how to access the set screws in the spindle that ride in the collet's keyway. Apparently they get asked how to do it so often that they prepared this file.

The screw on mine was kind of shmushed (that's a technical term) making it hard to line the collet up on it. Although there's a slot in the quill (why?), you can't get to the screw from there; you have to take the spindle apart.

When I got mine apart, it wasn't even recognizable as a screw (if that's what indeed it was). It was filed flush, and staked in place with six centerpunch marks. I drilled it out, then put it all back together without putting a new screw in.



--
The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that
heralds new discoveries, is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather,
'hmm.... that's funny...'
--Isaac Asimov

#32388 From: Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:53 pm
Subject: RE: Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)
mparkerlisberg
Send Email Send Email
 
The reason the link does not work is Yahoo uses short term links that disappear after a few minutes, you can only access that file from the files section:
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/files/>

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.

--- On Sun, 2/17/13, Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:

From: Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, February 17, 2013, 1:46 PM

 

Hi Dana,
 
Received notifation that you posted the file on the mii_drill site - got it .  Thanks, nice job.
 
Be well,
DBN  

--- On Sun, 2/17/13, Dana Hague <d-m-hague@...> wrote:

From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@...>
Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, February 17, 2013, 8:32 AM

Strange... perhaps Yahoo isn't allowing direct linking any more?  Look for it in the files section, it is there.


At 09:16 PM 2/16/2013, Dan and Marlene Coleman wrote:
 

Link did not work for me.

 

Dan

 

From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dana_hague
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 7:08 PM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mill_drill] Jet 15-18 spindle screw removal (file)

 

 

I uploaded "how to get screw from spindle.doc" to the files section:

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/GCsgUSGDmJl1wOXrCMP5vmjOJCcCQol1kW1UkaoQ2r6pMudhOC3bx3ORfnGeS715q6ttcW-U9hIkoAN7uAWOwiOh9z4KVl54/How%20to%20get%20screw%20from%20spindle.doc>

This was sent to me by the importer when I called asking on how to access the set screws in the spindle that ride in the collet's keyway. Apparently they get asked how to do it so often that they prepared this file.

The screw on mine was kind of shmushed (that's a technical term) making it hard to line the collet up on it. Although there's a slot in the quill (why?), you can't get to the screw from there; you have to take the spindle apart.

When I got mine apart, it wasn't even recognizable as a screw (if that's what indeed it was). It was filed flush, and staked in place with six centerpunch marks. I drilled it out, then put it all back together without putting a new screw in.



--
The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that
heralds new discoveries, is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather,
'hmm.... that's funny...'
--Isaac Asimov


#32389 From: "uhmgawa" <uhmgawa@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:13 pm
Subject: Re: new article: Cutting Corners
uhmgawa
Send Email Send Email
 
--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
> This article, intended for those new to the hobby of metal working, explains
> how to make a punch which cuts round corners in thin plastic sheet.

I've always used a lowly nail clipper to take the edge off
square corners of plastic sheet.  Although the cut arc isn't
exactly tangent to the sheet it does a nice job of getting a
gentle radius on the corners.  If you have a considerable
number to cut, a jig can be milled from a scrap of 12mm solid
surface countertop with the clipper mounted at a 45* extending
into the corner.  I've never actually worn out a clipper in
this application but replacements are inexpensive.

#32390 From: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
Date: Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:17 pm
Subject: RE: Re: new article: Cutting Corners
rgsparber
Send Email Send Email
 
Interesting solution to the problem of cutting corners.

Thanks,

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of uhmgawa
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 1:13 PM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mill_drill] Re: new article: Cutting Corners



--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
> This article, intended for those new to the hobby of metal working,
> explains how to make a punch which cuts round corners in thin plastic
sheet.

I've always used a lowly nail clipper to take the edge off square corners of
plastic sheet.  Although the cut arc isn't exactly tangent to the sheet it
does a nice job of getting a gentle radius on the corners.  If you have a
considerable number to cut, a jig can be milled from a scrap of 12mm solid
surface countertop with the clipper mounted at a 45* extending into the
corner.  I've never actually worn out a clipper in this application but
replacements are inexpensive.




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

#32391 From: "dana_hague" <d-m-hague@...>
Date: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:06 am
Subject: Tramming a Jet 15
dana_hague
Send Email Send Email
 
So I just bought a 1986 vintage JND-15 at a flea market and after manhandling it
on and off of my truck and hoisting it onto the stand I knew it was off...
checking with a dial indicator showed about .017" between the high and the low
side.  Anyway, I measured the variation with the indicator attachments I
happened to have on hand, then laid it out on the CAD on my laptop, and happy
coincidence... the double jointed indicator bar I had to chuck in the collet put
the indicator on a 6.5" diameter... which is as close to the corner to corner
diameter (6.36) of my column base bolt pattern as makes no difference.

Anyway, shimming the column base by the indicator readings at the 45 locations
brought me into perfect alignment within .001" (↓.0005) (after fixing my
mistake of adding when I should have been subtracting, but I digress).  Sure
simplified the math!  So if you don't happen to have a set like mine that just
happens to be the right length, make your tramming bar the length of the
diagonal radius of your bolt hole pattern, and tramming is simple .

#32392 From: David Van Mill <nomous69@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:11 am
Subject: Need some more advice.
nomous69
Send Email Send Email
 
Does anyone know anything about a bench mill made by Johansson. I don't know any more than that. There is one for sale not far from my house.
 
Is this a brand that I should consider looking at or should I stay away from this manufacturer?
 
Thanks,
David / nomous69

#32393 From: Mike Roberts <griz9729@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:15 am
Subject: Re: Need some more advice.
griz9729
Send Email Send Email
 
A quick internet check says this is the same mill as the Clausing 8520.  Pretty tiny based on the specs.
 
Mike Roberts
From: David Van Mill <nomous69@...>
To: "mill_drill@yahoogroups.com" <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 4:11 PM
Subject: [mill_drill] Need some more advice.
 
Does anyone know anything about a bench mill made by Johansson. I don't know any more than that. There is one for sale not far from my house.
 
Is this a brand that I should consider looking at or should I stay away from this manufacturer?
 
Thanks,
David / nomous69

#32394 From: Jerome Kimberlin <kimberln@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:08 am
Subject: Re: Need some more advice.
jkimberln
Send Email Send Email
 
On 2/18/2013 4:11 PM, David Van Mill wrote:
Does anyone know anything about a bench mill made by Johansson. I don't know any more than that. There is one for sale not far from my house.
 
Is this a brand that I should consider looking at or should I stay away from this manufacturer?

Take a look at:   http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing%20vertical/index.html     These small milling machines are highly desirable and generally cost a lot more than you would think because of that.  Otherwise, if the size fits the scope of your intended use, buy it.  They are a good mill.  Nothing you should stay away from.  I'd say they are better than an equivalent 'made in China'  mill.  Take a good look at the slop; on the lead screws and run-out on the spindle, etc. etc. just like you would on any used machine.

JerryK

#32395 From: David Van Mill <nomous69@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:44 am
Subject: Re: Need some more advice.
nomous69
Send Email Send Email
 
Called on the Mill and it was already gone, so I will keep looking.
Thanks for the information!!
David / NOMOUS69

From: Jerome Kimberlin <kimberln@...>
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Need some more advice.
 
On 2/18/2013 4:11 PM, David Van Mill wrote:
Does anyone know anything about a bench mill made by Johansson. I don't know any more than that. There is one for sale not far from my house.
 
Is this a brand that I should consider looking at or should I stay away from this manufacturer?
Take a look at:   http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing%20vertical/index.html     These small milling machines are highly desirable and generally cost a lot more than you would think because of that.  Otherwise, if the size fits the scope of your intended use, buy it.  They are a good mill.  Nothing you should stay away from.  I'd say they are better than an equivalent 'made in China'  mill.  Take a good look at the slop; on the lead screws and run-out on the spindle, etc. etc. just like you would on any used machine.JerryK

#32396 From: philr_77378@...
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:22 am
Subject: Re: Need some more advice.
philr_77378
Send Email Send Email
 
David,
Good deals disappear quick.  I used to use one of those in a test lab I worked in, and it was pretty good, but it's a small knee mill, rather than an actual bench mill.  Learn everything you can up front, so you can move quick. I recently had some good references bookmarked, and I will try to find those again and send them to you.  One in particular, had some good tips on what to look for when buying a used mill.   That web site you were referred to by Jerome is an excellent resource.  Someone did quite a public service by cataloging all those machines.
Phil R


From: David Van Mill <nomous69@...>
To: "mill_drill@yahoogroups.com" <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Need some more advice.

 
Called on the Mill and it was already gone, so I will keep looking.
Thanks for the information!!
David / NOMOUS69

From: Jerome Kimberlin <kimberln@...>
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Need some more advice.
 
On 2/18/2013 4:11 PM, David Van Mill wrote:
Does anyone know anything about a bench mill made by Johansson. I don't know any more than that. There is one for sale not far from my house.
 
Is this a brand that I should consider looking at or should I stay away from this manufacturer?
Take a look at:   http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing%20vertical/index.html     These small milling machines are highly desirable and generally cost a lot more than you would think because of that.  Otherwise, if the size fits the scope of your intended use, buy it.  They are a good mill.  Nothing you should stay away from.  I'd say they are better than an equivalent 'made in China'  mill.  Take a good look at the slop; on the lead screws and run-out on the spindle, etc. etc. just like you would on any used machine. JerryK



#32397 From: "Paul" <pdolb@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:22 pm
Subject: RE: Need some more advice.
tinapalian
Send Email Send Email
 

Fyi ….there is a yahoo forum  for the  clausing 8520 mill ,,,,, check out  “clausing  lathe and mill group”

 


From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Van Mill
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 8:44 PM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Need some more advice.

 

 

Called on the Mill and it was already gone, so I will keep looking.

Thanks for the information!!

David / NOMOUS69

 

From: Jerome Kimberlin <kimberln@...>
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Need some more advice.

 

On 2/18/2013 4:11 PM, David Van Mill wrote:

Does anyone know anything about a bench mill made by Johansson. I don't know any more than that. There is one for sale not far from my house.

 

Is this a brand that I should consider looking at or should I stay away from this manufacturer?

Take a look at:   http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing%20vertical/index.html     These small milling machines are highly desirable and generally cost a lot more than you would think because of that.  Otherwise, if the size fits the scope of your intended use, buy it.  They are a good mill.  Nothing you should stay away from.  I'd say they are better than an equivalent 'made in China'  mill.  Take a good look at the slop; on the lead screws and run-out on the spindle, etc. etc. just like you would on any used machine.JerryK


#32398 From: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:22 pm
Subject: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
rgsparber
Send Email Send Email
 

This article, intended for those new to our hobby of metalworking, explains how you can drill a hole with a hexagonal cross section. I provide all needed dimensions for a ” hex bit plus the math enabling you to drill any size polygon.

 

If you are interested, please see

 

http://rick.sparber.org/dhh.pdf

 

Your comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

 

For the full index of my articles, see rick.sparber.org.

 

Rick


#32399 From: Jerry Durand <jdurand@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:29 pm
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
jerry_durand...
Send Email Send Email
 
"This is of a "  ???  Bad form to have a typo in the first few words. :)


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

#32400 From: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:34 pm
Subject: RE: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
rgsparber
Send Email Send Email
 
Jerry,

Thanks for catching it. I have uploaded the correction.

http://rick.sparber.org/dhh.pdf


Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry Durand
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:29 AM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole

"This is of a "  ???  Bad form to have a typo in the first few words. :)


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

#32401 From: Mark Bennett <mwaynebennett@...>
Date: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:19 pm
Subject: RE: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
mwaynebennett
Send Email Send Email
 
Way cool.

Thanks,

Mark


To: valleymetal@yahoogroups.com; mill_drill@yahoogroups.com; smithy-machines@yahoogroups.com; 3_in_1_Lathe_Mill_Drill@yahoogroups.com
From: rgsparber@...
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 10:22:04 -0700
Subject: [mill_drill] new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole

 

This article, intended for those new to our hobby of metalworking, explains how you can drill a hole with a hexagonal cross section. I provide all needed dimensions for a hex bit plus the math enabling you to drill any size polygon.

 

If you are interested, please see

 

http://rick.sparber.org/dhh.pdf

 

Your comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

 

For the full index of my articles, see rick.sparber.org.

 

Rick



#32402 From: Jerry Durand <jdurand@...>
Date: Thu Feb 21, 2013 6:12 pm
Subject: Enco code
jerry_durand...
Send Email Send Email
 
Use Promo Code: RACE25 for Free UPS Ground Shipping on orders
of $49 or more! Hurry! Offer ends Monday, 2/25/13.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

#32403 From: john de ruiter <jdnow2001@...>
Date: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:11 am
Subject: john de ruiter
jdnow2001
Send Email Send Email
 
#32404 From: Jerry Durand <jdurand@...>
Date: Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:50 pm
Subject: plastic info
jerry_durand...
Send Email Send Email
 
If this link works right, it should give you a PDF file of properties
for all different plastics.  Even suggests the type of tool (HSS or
carbide) to machine it with.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8574KAC

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

#32405 From: John <jennasys@...>
Date: Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:57 am
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
jennasys
Send Email Send Email
 

Awesome.  I have a project where I need to make a single hex hole and this will work beautifully.  I had already planned on using a similar technique, but this spells out exactly what I need to do.  Thanks for posting it!

-John



--- On Tue, 2/19/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
Subject: [mill_drill] new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
To: valleymetal@yahoogroups.com, mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, smithy-machines@yahoogroups.com, 3_in_1_Lathe_Mill_Drill@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, February 19, 2013, 9:22 AM

 

This article, intended for those new to our hobby of metalworking, explains how you can drill a hole with a hexagonal cross section. I provide all needed dimensions for a ¼” hex bit plus the math enabling you to drill any size polygon.

 

If you are interested, please see

 

http://rick.sparber.org/dhh.pdf

 

Your comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

 

For the full index of my articles, see rick.sparber.org.

 

Rick


#32406 From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
Date: Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:57 am
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
rgsparber
Send Email Send Email
 
John,

Glad to be of service.  What size hex do you plan to drill?

Rick

On Feb 24, 2013, at 2:57 AM, John <jennasys@...> wrote:

Awesome.  I have a project where I need to make a single hex hole and this will work beautifully.  I had already planned on using a similar technique, but this spells out exactly what I need to do.  Thanks for posting it!

-John



--- On Tue, 2/19/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
Subject: [mill_drill] new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
To: valleymetal@yahoogroups.com, mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, smithy-machines@yahoogroups.com, 3_in_1_Lathe_Mill_Drill@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, February 19, 2013, 9:22 AM

 

This article, intended for those new to our hobby of metalworking, explains how you can drill a hole with a hexagonal cross section. I provide all needed dimensions for a ¼” hex bit plus the math enabling you to drill any size polygon.

 

If you are interested, please see

 

http://rick.sparber.org/dhh.pdf

 

Your comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

 

For the full index of my articles, see rick.sparber.org.

 

Rick


#32407 From: curtisleo@...
Date: Sun Feb 24, 2013 12:58 pm
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
curtis95033
Send Email Send Email
 
Another option is called a rotary broach. I had a job to make a few holes
andwas about to purchase one for the job. Customer decided to use some PEM
inserts.



n, February 24, 2013 3:57 am, Rick  Sparber wrote:
> John,
>
>
> Glad to be of service.  What size hex do you plan to drill?
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2013, at 2:57 AM, John <jennasys@...> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> Awesome.  I have a project where I need to make a single hex hole and
>> this will work beautifully.  I had already planned on using a similar
>> technique, but this spells out exactly what I need to do.  Thanks for
>> posting it!
>>
>> -John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- On Tue, 2/19/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
>> Subject: [mill_drill] new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
>> To: valleymetal@yahoogroups.com, mill_drill@yahoogroups.com,
>> smithy-machines@yahoogroups.com,
>> 3_in_1_Lathe_Mill_Drill@yahoogroups.com
>> Date: Tuesday, February 19, 2013, 9:22 AM
>>
>>
>> This article, intended for those new to our hobby of metalworking,
>> explains how you can drill a hole with a hexagonal cross section. I
>> provide all needed dimensions for a ¼” hex bit plus the math
>> enabling you to drill any size polygon.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you are interested, please see
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://rick.sparber.org/dhh.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Your comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any
>> one of us.
>>
>>
>>
>> For the full index of my articles, see rick.sparber.org.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

#32408 From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague@...>
Date: Sun Feb 24, 2013 1:17 pm
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
dana_hague
Send Email Send Email
 
I needed a 1/8" blind hex recently at work; the toolmaker used a similar approach but I believe he only drilled one central hole, then used a cutoff and sharpened bit of an allen wrench to broach it.  This was for a 1/4-80 adjusting screw on one of our production machines.  We talked about using a rotary broach but he wanted to try without it first and it worked great.

Some years ago I needed a 1/4" hex hole; I bought a piece of female hex bushing (from Reid Took IIRC) and pressed (or brazed or welded, I forget) it into a round hole in the part.



At 07:58 AM 2/24/2013, curtisleo@... wrote:
 
Another option is called a rotary broach. I had a job to make a few holes
andwas about to purchase one for the job. Customer decided to use some PEM
inserts.

--
Instead of warning pregnant women not to drink, I think female alcoholics should be told not to f---.

#32409 From: "Dan Mauch" <dmauch@...>
Date: Sun Feb 24, 2013 3:55 pm
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
danmauch
Send Email Send Email
 

Years ago I worked in a machine shop and used a couple different methods. One method not mentioned so far was to drill a hole in the part the diameter of the distance across the flats Then we took a regular Allen wrench and ground the end flat making sure we did not get it hot enough to lose the temper. Then the tool would be chucked up on center and pressed into the hole. In fact that’s how many Allen cap screw hexes are formed. You can tell that they used this method when you look inside the hex and see the folder edges pressed to the bottom.

 

 

Dan Mauch

www.camtronics-cnc.com

dmauch@...

Stepper and servo motors

Kits, assembled and custom CNC using Gecko products.

 


#32410 From: "Dan Mauch" <dmauch@...>
Date: Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:40 pm
Subject: Re: new article: Drilling a Hexagonal Hole
danmauch
Send Email Send Email
 

I received the chip and installed.

Thanks for the great service.

Dan

 

Dan Mauch

www.camtronics-cnc.com

dmauch@...

Stepper and servo motors

Kits, assembled and custom CNC using Gecko products.

 


#32411 From: "olds7d442" <olds7d442@...>
Date: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:08 am
Subject: Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?
olds7d442
Send Email Send Email
 
I have a harbor freight mill/drill and I took out the quill and spindle to check
the bearings. The grease was old and the bearings are made in China. The
bearings are a tapered roller bearing part #'s 30206p5 and a 30207p5. I decided
to just replace them with a quality p5 tapered roller bearing with brand new
grease and call it a day. Well. I got to thinking, what if I was to replace
these with an angular contact bearing. The bearings I was looking at have the
exact same dimensions as the tapered bearings and are a 7206p4 and a 7207p4.
Here is a link to one of the bearings on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7207CYP4-Nachi-Angular-Contact-35x72x17-Abec-7-35mm-72mm\
-17mm-Ball-Ball-Bearings-/400241206925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d303c268d

The bearings are obviously a lot more expensive then the tapered roller bearing
and I was just wondering if:
1)I was wasting my money with this type of machine.
2)Is there a benefit to angular contact over the tapered bearings in my
application.
3)Has anyone ever done this on this machine before?
Any and all answers are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Frank

#32412 From: Mark Bennett <mwaynebennett@...>
Date: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:15 am
Subject: RE: Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?
mwaynebennett
Send Email Send Email
 
I cannot see the benefit. It would be like putting high performance tires on Yugo.

Mark


To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
From: olds7d442@...
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 03:08:12 +0000
Subject: [mill_drill] Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?

 
I have a harbor freight mill/drill and I took out the quill and spindle to check the bearings. The grease was old and the bearings are made in China. The bearings are a tapered roller bearing part #'s 30206p5 and a 30207p5. I decided to just replace them with a quality p5 tapered roller bearing with brand new grease and call it a day. Well. I got to thinking, what if I was to replace these with an angular contact bearing. The bearings I was looking at have the exact same dimensions as the tapered bearings and are a 7206p4 and a 7207p4. Here is a link to one of the bearings on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7207CYP4-Nachi-Angular-Contact-35x72x17-Abec-7-35mm-72mm-17mm-Ball-Ball-Bearings-/400241206925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d303c268d

The bearings are obviously a lot more expensive then the tapered roller bearing and I was just wondering if:
1)I was wasting my money with this type of machine.
2)Is there a benefit to angular contact over the tapered bearings in my application.
3)Has anyone ever done this on this machine before?
Any and all answers are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Frank



#32413 From: "olds7d442" <olds7d442@...>
Date: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:43 am
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?
olds7d442
Send Email Send Email
 
Mark,

Although I appreciate your answer, can you elaborate a little more to exactly
why you feel this way.

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Mark Bennett <mwaynebennett@...> wrote:
>
>
> I cannot see the benefit. It would be like putting high performance tires on
Yugo.
>
> Mark
>
> To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> From: olds7d442@...
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 03:08:12 +0000
> Subject: [mill_drill] Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       I have a harbor freight mill/drill and I took out the quill and spindle
to check the bearings. The grease was old and the bearings are made in China.
The bearings are a tapered roller bearing part #'s 30206p5 and a 30207p5. I
decided to just replace them with a quality p5 tapered roller bearing with brand
new grease and call it a day. Well. I got to thinking, what if I was to replace
these with an angular contact bearing. The bearings I was looking at have the
exact same dimensions as the tapered bearings and are a 7206p4 and a 7207p4.
Here is a link to one of the bearings on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7207CYP4-Nachi-Angular-Contact-35x72x17-Abec-7-35mm-72mm\
-17mm-Ball-Ball-Bearings-/400241206925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d303c268d
>
>
>
> The bearings are obviously a lot more expensive then the tapered roller
bearing and I was just wondering if:
>
> 1)I was wasting my money with this type of machine.
>
> 2)Is there a benefit to angular contact over the tapered bearings in my
application.
>
> 3)Has anyone ever done this on this machine before?
>
> Any and all answers are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Frank
>

#32414 From: Mark Bennett <mwaynebennett@...>
Date: Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:03 am
Subject: RE: Re: Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?
mwaynebennett
Send Email Send Email
 
I had a Foremost mill/drill and it had limitations regarding the precision of the ways, vibration, fit etc. It could do precision work but I cannot see how putting in high-end bearings would improve anything. I don't think that those bearings are the "weak link" so to speak. If the tapered roller bearings failed before their anticipated service life I might reconsider, but you did not mention that there were anything wrong with the old bearings.

Good luck,

Mark


To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
From: olds7d442@...
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 03:43:42 +0000
Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?

 
Mark,

Although I appreciate your answer, can you elaborate a little more to exactly why you feel this way.

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Mark Bennett wrote:
>
>
> I cannot see the benefit. It would be like putting high performance tires on Yugo.
>
> Mark
>
> To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> From: olds7d442@...
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 03:08:12 +0000
> Subject: [mill_drill] Harbor Freight Mill/Drill 33686 Bearing ?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have a harbor freight mill/drill and I took out the quill and spindle to check the bearings. The grease was old and the bearings are made in China. The bearings are a tapered roller bearing part #'s 30206p5 and a 30207p5. I decided to just replace them with a quality p5 tapered roller bearing with brand new grease and call it a day. Well. I got to thinking, what if I was to replace these with an angular contact bearing. The bearings I was looking at have the exact same dimensions as the tapered bearings and are a 7206p4 and a 7207p4. Here is a link to one of the bearings on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7207CYP4-Nachi-Angular-Contact-35x72x17-Abec-7-35mm-72mm-17mm-Ball-Ball-Bearings-/400241206925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d303c268d
>
>
>
> The bearings are obviously a lot more expensive then the tapered roller bearing and I was just wondering if:
>
> 1)I was wasting my money with this type of machine.
>
> 2)Is there a benefit to angular contact over the tapered bearings in my application.
>
> 3)Has anyone ever done this on this machine before?
>
> Any and all answers are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Frank
>



#32415 From: Ross Babcock <babcockmill@...>
Date: Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:23 am
Subject: Ross Babcock
babcockmill
Send Email Send Email
 
Messages 32386 - 32415 of 33194   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Add to My Yahoo!      XML What's This?

Copyright 2010 Yahoo! Inc. All rights reserved.
Privacy Policy - Terms of Service - Guidelines NEW - Help