I have never experienced a problem with using WD-40, no explosions,
fires, etc, but I do not doubt it could be made to burn.  It has about
the same flash point (110 degrees F) as kerosene which is also used in
machining aluminum.  I most frequently apply WD 40 from a small
container using a small brush, but I have used a spray bottle to apply
it, especially if it involves machining something like a slot. In
which case I use a vacuum in one hand like I mentioned to not only
remove the chips (rather than compressed air that just blows them
everywhere), but also the vacuum has the effect of cooling the part
and the tool. The WD 40 provides lubrication. The combination of the
two allows slots to be machined without breakage of the end mill or a
poor finish on the workpiece. Your comment does remind me that I
should have a fire extinguisher in my shop. Thanks for the reminder.

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "dtornbom" <dtorn@...> wrote:
>
> --- If you are refering to WD40 keep in mind that WD40 is very
> flamable and could cause a explosion.
>
> A retired firefighter.>
>
> > A 1/16" end mill is pretty tiny. The smallest end mill I have used is
> > a 1/8", however I have yet to break one. On a long groove I would
> > suggest using a vacuum in one hand and a spray bottle of WE-40 in the
> > other using power feed of course. You may have to take two passes and
> > use a 2 flute end mill.
> >
>

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "xmanxmradio" <xman_charl@...> wrote:
>
> beware siegx3.pdf
>
> posted in files
>
> bolt holes do not align for the motor...need a new belt too.
>
> need grease on the gears
>
> taking out the spindle to check it, x,y, and z seem to be okay...
>
> xman
>


spindle is okay...putting everything back together now...

xman

Hey Everyone,
I just received an email from Grizzly saying that my G0484 Mill was
shipped 08/02. Cool

Very nice surprise because I was expecting it to be shipped sometime in
October.

Denis

I fixed up this junk vise and would like to hear opinions about the
color I painted it.

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/photos/view/52fa?b=5

You can kind of see how I leaded in some damage here:

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/photos/view/52fa?b=6&m=s&o=0

I had some other ideas as to how to go about repairing this damage (I
had a plate all cut out to weld in there) but then the thought struck
me to fill the holes in with lead.

I can save a fair amount of money with my HF  Inside Track Club card but be
aware of an unfair policy. I bought a 20 month  subscription but they don't
send you your Inside Track Club number for 6 to 8  weeks. Without the number you
can't use the card.

Customer service said  "there is nothing we can do about that". So you pay
for 20 months but really  only get 12 to 14 months. Sure doesn't make sense to
me.

If you choose to  buy the card, I suggest you call customer service a few
days later and ask them  for your number. It took two tries but eventually I got
a number that worked.

The 6 to 8 week wait is just for their catalog with your number printed  on
the back. If you shop on line, only the number is of value.

I still  plan to buy products from Harbor Freight but will be a bit more wary
in the  future.

Rick Sparber
rgsparber@...
web site:  http://rick.sparber.org




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
)

Any idea where we can order parts for the RF-30 mill?  I picked up a
used one at an auction and would like to go through it before i start
using it. Thanks!

Just finished this project and may be a bit OT but I thought since it
had a good bit of mill work that it might be interesting to the
group...after all we gotta use our tools for something!

This was in 3 issues of the Home Shop Machinist magazine from March to
July this year titled "The Finger Brake"

Actually it lets you use many/most of the tools in the shop, lathe,
welding, drilling/tapping, rotary table, etc. Well written, excellent
photos/drawings ... and a dang nice tool to add to your shop.

Typically with us HSM'ers, I modified the plans to suit what I had on
hand or access to --- the author used cold rolled plate, I cant get
that stuff, but the local scrap yard usually has a good supply of hot
rolled plate, so it was substituted -- and a few other alterations....

Sometimes the mag can go for many issues and not have anything worth
even looking at, and then about the time I threaten to cancel my
subscription it'll come out with several interesting projects....

[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake003-1.jpg[/IMG]

----- Original Message -----

From: pacer8020

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 8:24 AM

Subject: [mill_drill] Nice Home Shop project -- sheet metal finger brake

Just finished this project and may be a bit OT but I thought since it
had a good bit of mill work that it might be interesting to the
group...after all we gotta use our tools for something!

This was in 3 issues of the Home Shop Machinist magazine from March to
July this year titled "The Finger Brake"

Actually it lets you use many/most of the tools in the shop, lathe,
welding, drilling/tapping, rotary table, etc. Well written, excellent
photos/drawings ... and a dang nice tool to add to your shop.

Typically with us HSM'ers, I modified the plans to suit what I had on
hand or access to --- the author used cold rolled plate, I cant get
that stuff, but the local scrap yard usually has a good supply of hot
rolled plate, so it was substituted -- and a few other alterations....

Sometimes the mag can go for many issues and not have anything worth
even looking at, and then about the time I threaten to cancel my
subscription it'll come out with several interesting projects....

[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBrake002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBrake004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBrake003-1.jpg[/IMG]

Nice job!!!! I too enjoy  "shop made" tools.dwa





>
> Just finished this project and may be a bit OT but I thought since it
> had a good bit of mill work that it might be interesting to the
> group...after all we gotta use our tools for something!
>
> This was in 3 issues of the Home Shop Machinist magazine from March to
> July this year titled "The Finger Brake"
>
> Actually it lets you use many/most of the tools in the shop, lathe,
> welding, drilling/tapping, rotary table, etc. Well written, excellent
> photos/drawings ... and a dang nice tool to add to your shop.
>
> Typically with us HSM'ers, I modified the plans to suit what I had on
> hand or access to --- the author used cold rolled plate, I cant get
> that stuff, but the local scrap yard usually has a good supply of hot
> rolled plate, so it was substituted -- and a few other alterations....
>
> Sometimes the mag can go for many issues and not have anything worth
> even looking at, and then about the time I threaten to cancel my
> subscription it'll come out with several interesting projects....
>
>
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake002.jpg
>
<http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBrake0\
02.jpg>[/IMG]
>
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake004.jpg
>
<http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBrake0\
04.jpg>[/IMG]
>
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake003-1.jpg
>
<http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBrake0\
03-1.jpg>[/IMG]
>
>

pacer,

I've been considering building one of those myself. I have it marked
as a future project. I would be interested in how yours performs. How
thick of steel you can bend with it?

Ed


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "pacer8020" <pace8@...> wrote:
>
>
> Just finished this project and may be a bit OT but I thought since it
> had a good bit of mill work that it might be interesting to the
> group...after all we gotta use our tools for something!
>
> This was in 3 issues of the Home Shop Machinist magazine from March to
> July this year titled "The Finger Brake"
>
> Actually it lets you use many/most of the tools in the shop, lathe,
> welding, drilling/tapping, rotary table, etc. Well written, excellent
> photos/drawings ... and a dang nice tool to add to your shop.
>
> Typically with us HSM'ers, I modified the plans to suit what I had on
> hand or access to --- the author used cold rolled plate, I cant get
> that stuff, but the local scrap yard usually has a good supply of hot
> rolled plate, so it was substituted -- and a few other alterations....
>
> Sometimes the mag can go for many issues and not have anything worth
> even looking at, and then about the time I threaten to cancel my
> subscription it'll come out with several interesting projects....
>
>
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake002.jpg[/IMG]
>
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake004.jpg[/IMG]
>
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/HSM%20metal%20brake/MetalBr\
ake003-1.jpg[/IMG]
>

Try Grizzly. I'm sure they do or have sold a RF-30 mill.

www.grizzly.com

Ed


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "ppwcanada" <mitch@...> wrote:
>
> Any idea where we can order parts for the RF-30 mill?  I picked up a
> used one at an auction and would like to go through it before i start
> using it. Thanks!
>

Replacement parts are cheaper from HF but you had better know the part
numbers yourself and be prepared to wait.  Grizzly has a MUCH more
helpful parts department, they will look things up for you and they
will get it to you faster.  Enco is useless for parts, IMHO, worst of
both worlds.

Make your choice, spend your $$.

cheers,
c

On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 9:59 AM, Ed <ekadlec@...> wrote:
> Try Grizzly. I'm sure they do or have sold a RF-30 mill.
>
> www.grizzly.com
>
> Ed

If you care to replace your spindle bearings, I strongly suggest
accuratebearing.com.

I recently replaced them on an RF-30 I'm rebuilding for $37 shipped.
Their price was as good as any I was able to find anywhere on the web.
And, I called and spoke to a human, and had the order within 3 days.

If you do replace the spindle bearings, there are some tips I can pass
along, having just done it.

Thanks for the advice guys.  I found the manual on here which is
great!  Now i need to change a few worn parts.  Should be all the mill
i need...at least for now:)  Might look at a power feed option if it is
available.


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "ppwcanada" <mitch@...> wrote:
>
> Any idea where we can order parts for the RF-30 mill?  I picked up a
> used one at an auction and would like to go through it before i start
> using it. Thanks!
>

"lkasdorf", what are the tips and tricks, at sometime we are all going
to have to possible have to replace ours, any help would be
appreciated, thanks, Joe G.
>
> If you care to replace your spindle bearings, I strongly suggest
> accuratebearing.com.
>
> I recently replaced them on an RF-30 I'm rebuilding for $37 shipped.
> Their price was as good as any I was able to find anywhere on the web.
> And, I called and spoke to a human, and had the order within 3 days.
>
> If you do replace the spindle bearings, there are some tips I can pass
> along, having just done it.
>

Well I let the smoke out of my DM45 motor and it looks like a replacement is my only option ... only where to find em?   Nameplate sez YL90-L4 but all a search for that turns up is chinese manufacturers.

It is a 1.5 HP single phase motor running on 220VAC and, if I can find a good deal I would like to put a three phase and VFD on it.  In my searchings I came across several places calling it a D-90 frame but those seem scarce also...

Anybody else searched for motors for these square column mills??

 

Glenn

Hi, got a newbie here.

I just bought a ZAY7032G, Harbor Freight #42827 and it has the same
motor only in a 110v config. Mine was no good, draws 44a on start and
28a running no load right out of the box. I took some pics of the
wiring and made notes, removed the motor and retested it. Amperage was
the same with the motor sitting on a table. At least, hopefully, its
not a gearbox problem. Called HF support and they sent me another
motor right away so I know they have them. Anyway, I have been
researching this motor also and it seems that every factory in China
makes one, most of them are 220v and there are several frames
available. Some of them look like they maybe iron, mine has an
aluminum extrusion with cast aluminum ends. Mounts on 1 end with the
shaft sticking down into the gearbox.

I'm afraid to start mine back up because I don't think the original
wiring is right. HF emailed me a diagram but it is such a poor quality
.jpg that I can't read the small print clearly, however it shows that
it can be wired for 110 or 220 (wonder if the capacitors should be
different). I'm thinking that V2(brown) and V1(white) from the switch
might be swapped on the terminal block in the capacitor case.

  I'm not sure the switch is wired right either. I'm having a hard time
comprehending the diagrams in the manual, kinda cryptic because I
don't know how the switch works internally. The switch is a Kraus &
Naimer CA10. Has Forward, Off, Reverse with 12 terminals, many of
which are jumpered. Went to their website and there must be hundreds
of ways to wire it and I don't understand any of their wireless diagrams.

If anyone has one of these mills and is willing to open the covers on
the capacitor and switch boxes and take some pics I sure would
appreciate it. I'm thinking about going to HF and opening theirs up,
not sure how they would take that though.

This is my first mill and I sure would like to see it run. From
reading some of the posts here and at cnczone.com I'm beginning to
think that I should tear the gearbox and table apart and deburr/clean
everything up before using it. Comments welcome.





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn N" <sleykin@...> wrote:
>
> Well I let the smoke out of my DM45 motor and it looks like a
replacement is my only option ... only where to find em?   Nameplate
sez YL90-L4 but all a search for that turns up is chinese manufacturers.
> It is a 1.5 HP single phase motor running on 220VAC and, if I can
find a good deal I would like to put a three phase and VFD on it.  In
my searchings I came across several places calling it a D-90 frame but
those seem scarce also...
> Anybody else searched for motors for these square column mills??
>
> Glenn
>

You might look here:

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/metric_B5_Flange_mount.htm

Alan

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn N" <sleykin@...> wrote:
>
> Well I let the smoke out of my DM45 motor and it looks like a
replacement is my only option ... only where to find em?   Nameplate
sez YL90-L4 but all a search for that turns up is chinese manufacturers.
> It is a 1.5 HP single phase motor running on 220VAC and, if I can
find a good deal I would like to put a three phase and VFD on it.  In
my searchings I came across several places calling it a D-90 frame but
those seem scarce also...
> Anybody else searched for motors for these square column mills??
>
> Glenn
>

Well I let the smoke out of my DM45 motor and it looks like a replacement is my only option ... only where to find em?   Nameplate sez YL90-L4 but all a search for that turns up is chinese manufacturers.

It is a 1.5 HP single phase motor running on 220VAC and, if I can find a good deal I would like to put a three phase and VFD on it.  In my searchings I came across several places calling it a D-90 frame but those seem scarce also...

Anybody else searched for motors for these square column mills??

 

Glenn

----- Original Message -----

From: Glenn N

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:20 AM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Replacement motors? DM-45

From what I have found out on my DM45, the 110 volt version has 4 wires from the switch to the motor and the 220 volt version has only 3 wires.

I feel your frustration as I have struggled with the switch and wiring a bit before this as I was originally going to run it on 110 and would have had to re-wire the switch and motor jumpers.  I decided it was simpler to just run a 220 circuit for it.

 

This is what I was sent when I asked about wiring it for 110Volt...

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/AIGfSAVUO29Ee-zn3TJ5j-tITJuxDzJqQz84bYWbaosXvcJZlC4Wt1-B5DA6rg-0eoWvYBFfPUtUICmxSL3iS4SRUphk/Wire.jpg

 

In the group files section ..

 

----- Original Message -----

From: kidharris

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 4:39 AM

Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Replacement motors? DM-45

Hi, got a newbie here.

I just bought a ZAY7032G, Harbor Freight #42827 and it has the same
motor only in a 110v config. Mine was no good, draws 44a on start and
28a running no load right out of the box. I took some pics of the
wiring and made notes, removed the motor and retested it. Amperage was
the same with the motor sitting on a table. At least, hopefully, its
not a gearbox problem. Called HF support and they sent me another
motor right away so I know they have them. Anyway, I have been
researching this motor also and it seems that every factory in China
makes one, most of them are 220v and there are several frames
available. Some of them look like they maybe iron, mine has an
aluminum extrusion with cast aluminum ends. Mounts on 1 end with the
shaft sticking down into the gearbox.

I'm afraid to start mine back up because I don't think the original
wiring is right. HF emailed me a diagram but it is such a poor quality
.jpg that I can't read the small print clearly, however it shows that
it can be wired for 110 or 220 (wonder if the capacitors should be
different). I'm thinking that V2(brown) and V1(white) from the switch
might be swapped on the terminal block in the capacitor case.

 I'm not sure the switch is wired right either. I'm having a hard time
comprehending the diagrams in the manual, kinda cryptic because I
don't know how the switch works internally. The switch is a Kraus &
Naimer CA10. Has Forward, Off, Reverse with 12 terminals, many of
which are jumpered. Went to their website and there must be hundreds
of ways to wire it and I don't understand any of their wireless diagrams.

If anyone has one of these mills and is willing to open the covers on
the capacitor and switch boxes and take some pics I sure would
appreciate it. I'm thinking about going to HF and opening theirs up,
not sure how they would take that though.

This is my first mill and I sure would like to see it run. From
reading some of the posts here and at cnczone.com I'm beginning to
think that I should tear the gearbox and table apart and deburr/clean
everything up before using it. Comments welcome.





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn N" <sleykin@...> wrote:
>
> Well I let the smoke out of my DM45 motor and it looks like a
replacement is my only option ... only where to find em?   Nameplate
sez YL90-L4 but all a search for that turns up is chinese manufacturers.
> It is a 1.5 HP single phase motor running on 220VAC and, if I can
find a good deal I would like to put a three phase and VFD on it.  In
my searchings I came across several places calling it a D-90 frame but
those seem scarce also...
> Anybody else searched for motors for these square column mills??
>
> Glenn
>



------------------------------------

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----- Original Message -----

From: Glenn N

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:20 AM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Replacement motors? DM-45

From what I have found out on my DM45, the 110 volt version has 4 wires from the switch to the motor and the 220 volt version has only 3 wires.

I feel your frustration as I have struggled with the switch and wiring a bit before this as I was originally going to run it on 110 and would have had to re-wire the switch and motor jumpers.  I decided it was simpler to just run a 220 circuit for it.

 

This is what I was sent when I asked about wiring it for 110Volt...

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/AIGfSAVUO29Ee-zn3TJ5j-tITJuxDzJqQz84bYWbaosXvcJZlC4Wt1-B5DA6rg-0eoWvYBFfPUtUICmxSL3iS4SRUphk/Wire.jpg

 

In the group files section ..

 

----- Original Message -----

From: kidharris

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 4:39 AM

Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Replacement motors? DM-45

Hi, got a newbie here.

I just bought a ZAY7032G, Harbor Freight #42827 and it has the same
motor only in a 110v config. Mine was no good, draws 44a on start and
28a running no load right out of the box. I took some pics of the
wiring and made notes, removed the motor and retested it. Amperage was
the same with the motor sitting on a table. At least, hopefully, its
not a gearbox problem. Called HF support and they sent me another
motor right away so I know they have them. Anyway, I have been
researching this motor also and it seems that every factory in China
makes one, most of them are 220v and there are several frames
available. Some of them look like they maybe iron, mine has an
aluminum extrusion with cast aluminum ends. Mounts on 1 end with the
shaft sticking down into the gearbox.

I'm afraid to start mine back up because I don't think the original
wiring is right. HF emailed me a diagram but it is such a poor quality
.jpg that I can't read the small print clearly, however it shows that
it can be wired for 110 or 220 (wonder if the capacitors should be
different). I'm thinking that V2(brown) and V1(white) from the switch
might be swapped on the terminal block in the capacitor case.

 I'm not sure the switch is wired right either. I'm having a hard time
comprehending the diagrams in the manual, kinda cryptic because I
don't know how the switch works internally. The switch is a Kraus &
Naimer CA10. Has Forward, Off, Reverse with 12 terminals, many of
which are jumpered. Went to their website and there must be hundreds
of ways to wire it and I don't understand any of their wireless diagrams.

If anyone has one of these mills and is willing to open the covers on
the capacitor and switch boxes and take some pics I sure would
appreciate it. I'm thinking about going to HF and opening theirs up,
not sure how they would take that though.

This is my first mill and I sure would like to see it run. From
reading some of the posts here and at cnczone.com I'm beginning to
think that I should tear the gearbox and table apart and deburr/clean
everything up before using it. Comments welcome.





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn N" <sleykin@...> wrote:
>
> Well I let the smoke out of my DM45 motor and it looks like a
replacement is my only option ... only where to find em?   Nameplate
sez YL90-L4 but all a search for that turns up is chinese manufacturers.
> It is a 1.5 HP single phase motor running on 220VAC and, if I can
find a good deal I would like to put a three phase and VFD on it.  In
my searchings I came across several places calling it a D-90 frame but
those seem scarce also...
> Anybody else searched for motors for these square column mills??
>
> Glenn
>



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/

<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/join
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Yeah it is when a few of their imported from the far east items
explode in your hands that you'll reevaluate your business
relationship with Harbor Garbage. Honestly when I look around I am
able to get high quality name brand tools at a fraction of what Harbor
Freight sells their merchandise for.


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, rgsparber@... wrote:
>
>
> I still  plan to buy products from Harbor Freight but will be a bit
more wary
> in the  future.
>
> Rick Sparber
> rgsparber@...
> web site:  http://rick.sparber.org
>
>
>
>

Where do you shop? I've never seen anyone beat  HF on price. I agree that
most places beat them on quality.

Rick  Sparber
rgsparber@...
web site: http://rick.sparber.org


In  a message dated 8/11/2008 12:30:28 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
pfrederick1@... writes:

Honestly when I look around I am
able to  get high quality name brand tools at a fraction of what Harbor
Freight sells  their merchandise for.




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
)

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <pfrederick1@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Yeah it is when a few of their imported from the far east items
> explode in your hands that you'll reevaluate your business
> relationship with Harbor Garbage. Honestly when I look around I am
> able to get high quality name brand tools at a fraction of what Harbor
> Freight sells their merchandise for.
>

Paul:

I'm always looking for a bargain. What are some of those "high quality
name brand tools [sold] at a fraction of what Harbor Freight sells
their merchandise for".  Do you shop at Enco?

Phil

"Let the buyer be ware" if the price is too good to be true, then its
proably a POS. Harbor Freight sales a lot of stuff, some good some junk.
Its up to the buyer to do "do dillagance"
I have the 12x36 HF Lathe & the HF Carbide Tool Grinder. The lathe is a
great machine, very accurate,very dependable( its a 04 model) 0
problems, the grinder is a great copy of a $1000 machine I payed $100
for it. I`ve had it a long time. If it were`nt for HF I might not have
either, their prices can not be beat!!!dwa




> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:mill_drill%40yahoogroups.com>, "Paul" <pfrederick1@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Yeah it is when a few of their imported from the far east items
> > explode in your hands that you'll reevaluate your business
> > relationship with Harbor Garbage. Honestly when I look around I am
> > able to get high quality name brand tools at a fraction of what Harbor
> > Freight sells their merchandise for.
> >
>
> Paul:
>
> I'm always looking for a bargain. What are some of those "high quality
> name brand tools [sold] at a fraction of what Harbor Freight sells
> their merchandise for". Do you shop at Enco?
>
> Phil
>
>

I'm with Phil....where do you get those deals?

Thanks
Rick in CO

--- Phil Teague <philteague@...> wrote:

> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Paul"
> <pfrederick1@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Yeah it is when a few of their imported from the
> far east items
> > explode in your hands that you'll reevaluate your
> business
> > relationship with Harbor Garbage. Honestly when I
> look around I am
> > able to get high quality name brand tools at a
> fraction of what Harbor
> > Freight sells their merchandise for.
> >
>
> Paul:
>
> I'm always looking for a bargain. What are some of
> those "high quality
> name brand tools [sold] at a fraction of what Harbor
> Freight sells
> their merchandise for".  Do you shop at Enco?
>
> Phil
>
>

I want to order (some) dovetail cutters but I am not sure which angles
to buy.

I own an Enco RF-45:

1. Does anyone know what the angle of the dovetail on the front of the
x axis is?

2. Which is the most common angle...60 degrees?

3. I've looked at the Grizzly cutters, can't find them on the Enco
site ???, can anyone suggest another vendor?

I want to cut an angle along both long edges of a 24" x 5/8" bar of AL,
what would be the best setup to accomplish this without having to move
the stock for one side (multiple passes, if needed are okay)

Thank you for your valued advice!

Fred