John,

Great question!  I'm in precisely the same position and was wondering the
same thing. I'm thinking of cutting some gears eventually.

-Joe


>From: "harterjohn" <harterj@...>
>Reply-To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
>To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?
>Date: Tue, 01 May 2007 06:21:48 -0000
>
>Hi all,
>I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 6" or an 8" rotary table
>for my RF-31. I don't have a specific project in mind yet - but I
>want to have the RT available for when I do!
>
>Gut feel tells me that "bigger is better", but I'd appreciate the
>views of the group on a couple of points:
>
>1) Will a typical 8" RT actually mount on the table of an RF-31, in
>both the horizontal and vertical modes, conveniently? (ie could I
>expect the table T-slots and RT mounting points to be "compatible")
>
>2) Given that "rigidity is everything", could I expect a similar
>precision/finish for a given part manufactured on a 6" or 8" RT
>(given that the part isn't oversized for the 6"). ie would the 8" RT
>necessarily produce better results, simply because it is
>more "solid".
>
>There is a big difference in the mass (and price!) of the 2 RTs, and
>I think the 6" would be big enough for the kind of work that I do,
>but I don't want to buy something that I have to "nurse along" in
>order to get good results! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
>
>regards,
>John in Australia
>

_________________________________________________________________
Interest Rates NEAR 39yr LOWS!  $430,000 Mortgage for $1,299/mo - Calculate
new payment
http://www.lowermybills.com/lre/index.jsp?sourceid=lmb-9632-19132&moid=14888

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Williams" <Joew94th@...>
wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Great question!  I'm in precisely the same position and was
wondering the
> same thing. I'm thinking of cutting some gears eventually.
>
> -Joe
>
>

Joe - wow, gear cutting! Might get there myself someday, but for now
I was thinking more along the lines of bearing pillow blocks and
covers.
Possibly some splined shafts - who knows!
I guess I'm keen to understand what the limitation of a 6" RT is.
Would it be safe to assume that I can cut a 3" radius slot? How about
4" radius, with suitable depth/rate? What is the limiting factor:
finish, precision, RT wear... So many questions, so little time!

regards,
John.

For me I decided on the 150mm RT.  When I looked at the 200mm unit in
the shop it was quite a bit bigger and it actually seemed a little
too big for the mill (RF-30).  But I guess it depends on what you
need to do with it.  Most of my cutting will be a lot less than a
150mm dia so the 150mm unit is fine.  The other thing is I am
assuming that I will be able to make adapter plate should the need
arise.

I did look into making one and found this site
http://www.hobbymechanics.com.au/rotarytables.htm
they sell the gears & plans but after adding up the cost it works out
just as cost effective to buy one.

H&F sell the 150mm RT for $359 and the 200mm for $559.  They are the
Vertex brand that seems to have good reports.

Looking at Ozemstore on eBay they sell a 150mm rt for $330.  But they
do not respond to emails so its impossible to get any information on
it.

McJing (www.mcjing.com.au) sell a 160mm RT for $375 and a 200mm RT
for $519.  I looked at both of them and from memory I think the store
price was $300 for the 160mm RT, but I might have that wrong. The RT
seemed fine but Vertix unit looked to be a better built product and
in my opinion worth the extra cost.

I probably didn't answer your question but this information my be of
some use to you.

Warren
(In Australia)


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "harterjohn" <harterj@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 6" or an 8" rotary table
> for my RF-31. I don't have a specific project in mind yet - but I
> want to have the RT available for when I do!
>
> Gut feel tells me that "bigger is better", but I'd appreciate the
> views of the group on a couple of points:
>
> 1) Will a typical 8" RT actually mount on the table of an RF-31, in
> both the horizontal and vertical modes, conveniently? (ie could I
> expect the table T-slots and RT mounting points to be "compatible")
>
> 2) Given that "rigidity is everything", could I expect a similar
> precision/finish for a given part manufactured on a 6" or 8" RT
> (given that the part isn't oversized for the 6"). ie would the 8"
RT
> necessarily produce better results, simply because it is
> more "solid".
>
> There is a big difference in the mass (and price!) of the 2 RTs,
and
> I think the 6" would be big enough for the kind of work that I do,
> but I don't want to buy something that I have to "nurse along" in
> order to get good results! Any thoughts would be greatly
appreciated!
>
> regards,
> John in Australia
>

Hi John

On Tue, 01 May 2007 18:02:30 +0800, harterjohn <harterj@...>
wrote:


>> Great question!  I'm in precisely the same position and was
> wondering the same thing. I'm thinking of cutting some gears eventually.
>>
>> -Joe
>>
>>
>

> I guess I'm keen to understand what the limitation of a 6" RT is.
> Would it be safe to assume that I can cut a 3" radius slot?

Of course.


> How about 4" radius, with suitable depth/rate? What is the limiting
> factor:
> finish, precision, RT wear... So many questions, so little time!

The limiting factor is only a practical limitation. That is, how easy is
it to set up and execute a machining procedure.

The limiting radius that can be produced on a 6" table is in theory about
the distance between your milling cutter and the mill's column.

Of course you could not in a practical sense using a 6" RT, cut such a
radius as 12" on a 1" thick steel plate 24" in diameter, however something
in 1" thick aluminium about 12" diameter does not seem too impractical.

These things *can* be done with the required diligence and care in setting
up. Don't feel limited by the tool in use but DO BE extremely aware of
PRACTICAL limitations, if you have ANY doubt about something you want to
do, then either DON'T DO IT or seek advice first. :D

HTH


--
Kind Regards

Peter Sanders

How far are you from Charlotte, NC ? Wholesale tool has a store there.
http://www.wttool.com/info-exec/view/store_locations/    I have the
deluxe Zay7045 from them.   Dave

>Roy: I don't get the Enco flyer. Could you please provide the model
>number so I can check it out in their catalog?

Thanks.
Jack

>Hi Gang,
>
>The new Enco flyer I received today has their square column mill/drill
>on sale with free shipping. Am about to bite and order one but hate to
>spend that much without ever seeing one. Anyone know where/how I can
>look at one somewhere near the East Tennessee area??
>
>Sale price with the stand is $1,649.95. Have also been looking at Top
>Tech from Penn Tool Company, and Lathemaster (presently out of stock).
>Would appreciate comments/opinions regarding these three brands and
>their relative pros & cons.
>
>Thanks,
>Roy
>
>

I'm considering moving up from my Grizzly round-column mill to an
RF-31. I'd appreciate opinions pro and con from current users.
Has any user felt the need to upgrade from that machine?
Thanks, Jack

good luck on the enco, they are always on backorder.  I tried
getting one a few times, told me they were on order for June.  I
went with the 3-phase grizzly 519 and picked up a VFD for $200 and
love it.





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "roylpopecharternet" <rlpope@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> The new Enco flyer I received today has their square column
mill/drill
> on sale with free shipping. Am about to bite and order one but
hate to
> spend that much without ever seeing one. Anyone know where/how I
can
> look at one somewhere near the East Tennessee area??
>
> Sale price with the stand is $1,649.95. Have also been looking at
Top
> Tech from Penn Tool Company, and Lathemaster (presently out of
stock).
> Would appreciate comments/opinions regarding these three brands and
> their relative pros & cons.
>
> Thanks,
> Roy
>

the 8" is too big for anything but large work that would tax the '31
anyway.  By the time you mount a chuck on it (I always seem to use
one for rotary work) it will be over 8" high, maybe 9".





--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Williams" <Joew94th@...>
wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Great question!  I'm in precisely the same position and was
wondering the
> same thing. I'm thinking of cutting some gears eventually.
>
> -Joe
>
>
> >From: "harterjohn" <harterj@...>
> >Reply-To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> >To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?
> >Date: Tue, 01 May 2007 06:21:48 -0000
> >
> >Hi all,
> >I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 6" or an 8" rotary
table
> >for my RF-31. I don't have a specific project in mind yet - but I
> >want to have the RT available for when I do!
> >
> >Gut feel tells me that "bigger is better", but I'd appreciate the
> >views of the group on a couple of points:
> >
> >1) Will a typical 8" RT actually mount on the table of an RF-31,
in
> >both the horizontal and vertical modes, conveniently? (ie could I
> >expect the table T-slots and RT mounting points to
be "compatible")
> >
> >2) Given that "rigidity is everything", could I expect a similar
> >precision/finish for a given part manufactured on a 6" or 8" RT
> >(given that the part isn't oversized for the 6"). ie would the 8"
RT
> >necessarily produce better results, simply because it is
> >more "solid".
> >
> >There is a big difference in the mass (and price!) of the 2 RTs,
and
> >I think the 6" would be big enough for the kind of work that I do,
> >but I don't want to buy something that I have to "nurse along" in
> >order to get good results! Any thoughts would be greatly
appreciated!
> >
> >regards,
> >John in Australia
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Interest Rates NEAR 39yr LOWS!  $430,000 Mortgage for $1,299/mo -
Calculate
> new payment
> http://www.lowermybills.com/lre/index.jsp?sourceid=lmb-9632-
19132&moid=14888
>

>Roy: I don't get the Enco flyer. Could you please provide the model
>number so I can check it out in their catalog?

Thanks.
Jack

>Hi Gang,
>
>The new Enco flyer I received today has their square column mill/drill
>on sale with free shipping. Am about to bite and order one but hate to
>spend that much without ever seeing one. Anyone know where/how I can
>look at one somewhere near the East Tennessee area??
>
>Sale price with the stand is $1,649.95. Have also been looking at Top
>Tech from Penn Tool Company, and Lathemaster (presently out of stock).
>Would appreciate comments/opinions regarding these three brands and
>their relative pros & cons.
>
>Thanks,
>Roy
>
>

>Hi Gang,
>
>The new Enco flyer I received today has their square column
mill/drill
>on sale with free shipping. Am about to bite and order one but hate
to
>spend that much without ever seeing one. Anyone know where/how I can
>look at one somewhere near the East Tennessee area??
>
>Sale price with the stand is $1,649.95. Have also been looking at
Top
>Tech from Penn Tool Company, and Lathemaster (presently out of
stock).
>Would appreciate comments/opinions regarding these three brands and
>their relative pros & cons.
>
>Thanks,
>Roy


I have purchased an RF45 from Enco a couple of years ago for $1395
with free ship.  It is an attactive deal!  Forget the stand they are
light for usage either construct one out of 2 x 2 tubing steel.  Or
pay a welder to do it.  Neither stand comes with levelers so order
4.  Nothing is more discouraging than having machine stand and no
levelers. Quality of unit was average.  I tore it apart for a
CNC converion IH style.  Head interior was clean of sand and shavings
and gears were well done.  I have run that unit at 4,000 rpm with a
motor change and VFD.  So I really needed to know that head was
clean.

Think very seriously about square column, square column, square column.

SQUARE COLUMN

Regards
Phil


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "John Dinan" <jdinan@...> wrote:
>
> I'm considering moving up from my Grizzly round-column mill to an
> RF-31. I'd appreciate opinions pro and con from current users.
> Has any user felt the need to upgrade from that machine?
> Thanks, Jack
>

Thanks, Phil. I'll turn my attention to a square column.
Jack

----- Original Message -----

From: Joe Williams

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 9:15 AM

Subject: [PHISHING]: RE: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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John,

Great question! I'm in precisely the same position and was wondering the
same thing. I'm thinking of cutting some gears eventually.

-Joe

>From: "harterjohn" <harterj@bigpond.net.au>
>Reply-To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
>To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?
>Date: Tue, 01 May 2007 06:21:48 -0000
>
>Hi all,
>I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 6" or an 8" rotary table
>for my RF-31. I don't have a specific project in mind yet - but I
>want to have the RT available for when I do!
>
>Gut feel tells me that "bigger is better", but I'd appreciate the
>views of the group on a couple of points:
>
>1) Will a typical 8" RT actually mount on the table of an RF-31, in
>both the horizontal and vertical modes, conveniently? (ie could I
>expect the table T-slots and RT mounting points to be "compatible")
>
>2) Given that "rigidity is everything", could I expect a similar
>precision/finish for a given part manufactured on a 6" or 8" RT
>(given that the part isn't oversized for the 6"). ie would the 8" RT
>necessarily produce better results, simply because it is
>more "solid".
>
>There is a big difference in the mass (and price!) of the 2 RTs, and
>I think the 6" would be big enough for the kind of work that I do,
>but I don't want to buy something that I have to "nurse along" in
>order to get good results! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
>
>regards,
>John in Australia
>

__________________________________________________________
Interest Rates NEAR 39yr LOWS! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,299/mo - Calculate
new payment
http://www.lowermybills.com/lre/index.jsp?sourceid=lmb-9632-19132&moid=14888

Hello all,

I am thinking about buying this gadget, http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html ,

hoping that besides center/edge finding it might help to locate the head after moving it up or down. Does anybody actually use it? Is it really that good and accurate as they claim? Any advice would be appreciated.

Larry

I have the 8" on my RF 45 and it is about as big as I would want to go on this
machine.  I have had it a few months and haven't really used it yet.  I am
thinking the 6" would have been a better choice for me.  The weight is a real
consideration and I really think the practicle differenc in function is small.
HTH
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "harterjohn" <harterj@...>
To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:21 PM
Subject: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?


Hi all,
I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 6" or an 8" rotary table
for my RF-31. I don't have a specific project in mind yet - but I
want to have the RT available for when I do!

Gut feel tells me that "bigger is better", but I'd appreciate the
views of the group on a couple of points:

1) Will a typical 8" RT actually mount on the table of an RF-31, in
both the horizontal and vertical modes, conveniently? (ie could I
expect the table T-slots and RT mounting points to be "compatible")

2) Given that "rigidity is everything", could I expect a similar
precision/finish for a given part manufactured on a 6" or 8" RT
(given that the part isn't oversized for the 6"). ie would the 8" RT
necessarily produce better results, simply because it is
more "solid".

There is a big difference in the mass (and price!) of the 2 RTs, and
I think the 6" would be big enough for the kind of work that I do,
but I don't want to buy something that I have to "nurse along" in
order to get good results! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

regards,
John in Australia




Yahoo! Groups Links

Yeah .. and failing all else be sure to go with a square column mill :)  The 31
is still a round column.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Burman" <philip.burman@...>
To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 8:57 AM
Subject: [mill_drill] Re: RF-31 opinions


Think very seriously about square column, square column, square column.

SQUARE COLUMN

Regards
Phil


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "John Dinan" <jdinan@...> wrote:
>
> I'm considering moving up from my Grizzly round-column mill to an
> RF-31. I'd appreciate opinions pro and con from current users.
> Has any user felt the need to upgrade from that machine?
> Thanks, Jack
>





Yahoo! Groups Links

I have a 6" Phase II on my RF31, and I wouldn't want a bigger one I don't
think.  I have found that ingenuity and imagination are very important
aspects of using a rotary table, at least as important as size at this
(early) point in my machining experience.  This group has helped me with
both of those things.  Buy the "T'-nuts, assorted threaded studs, and flange
nuts from McMaster Carr to fit, if you need to.

Wade


----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn N" <sleykin@...>
To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?


>I have the 8" on my RF 45 and it is about as big as I would want to go on
>this machine.  I have had it a few months and haven't really used it yet.
>I am thinking the 6" would have been a better choice for me.  The weight is
>a real consideration and I really think the practicle differenc in function
>is small.
> HTH
> Glenn
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "harterjohn" <harterj@...>
> To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:21 PM
> Subject: [mill_drill] What size Rotary Table for my RF-31?
>
>
> Hi all,
> I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 6" or an 8" rotary table
> for my RF-31. I don't have a specific project in mind yet - but I
> want to have the RT available for when I do!
>
> Gut feel tells me that "bigger is better", but I'd appreciate the
> views of the group on a couple of points:
>
> 1) Will a typical 8" RT actually mount on the table of an RF-31, in
> both the horizontal and vertical modes, conveniently? (ie could I
> expect the table T-slots and RT mounting points to be "compatible")
>
> 2) Given that "rigidity is everything", could I expect a similar
> precision/finish for a given part manufactured on a 6" or 8" RT
> (given that the part isn't oversized for the 6"). ie would the 8" RT
> necessarily produce better results, simply because it is
> more "solid".
>
> There is a big difference in the mass (and price!) of the 2 RTs, and
> I think the 6" would be big enough for the kind of work that I do,
> but I don't want to buy something that I have to "nurse along" in
> order to get good results! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
>
> regards,
> John in Australia
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Larry: I bought a laser edge finder with this exact application in
mind. My cheap mill is a round-column one and I find myself having to
adjust the height of the head in mid project rather frequently.

I didn't buy the one on your link, though.

The first step in using mine is to bring the laser beam onto the axis
of a spindle. One does this by drilling a mark in a plate and then
adjusting four thumb screws to bring the laser beam onto that dot.

Unfortunately, this adjustment is so hair-trigger that, on the two
occasions that I've carried out this process, I found that the result
was not reproducible.

Being a man of limited patience, I parked the gadget in the drawer
until I am in the mood to try again.

If the one in your link has the beam on axis as it arrives, then I
say go for it.  If it doesn't, then await the opinion of a user.
I hope this helps.
Jack

>Hello all,
>
>I am thinking about buying this gadget,
><http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html>http://www.lasercenteredgefinde\
r.com/main.html
>,
>
>hoping that besides center/edge finding it might help to locate the
>head after moving it up or down. Does anybody actually use it? Is it
>really that good and accurate as they claim? Any advice would be
>appreciated.
>
>Larry
>

Hello all,

I am thinking about buying this gadget, http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html ,

hoping that besides center/edge finding it might help to locate the head after moving it up or down. Does anybody actually use it? Is it really that good and accurate as they claim? Any advice would be appreciated.

Larry

I have an idea I am about to proceed building which I hope will keep
my vise indication intact when I move the head.  My plan is to
fashion a piece of material and attach it on the back side of the
solid jaw where you would attach one of those adjustable vise
stops.  Then locate, drill, and ream a 1/2" hole in the middle of
this piece while it is attached to the vise.  Then take a piece of
1/2" steel rod that is a nice tight slip fit for the hole diameter,
and is as straight as I can hope to find or make. The rod will need
to be long enough to allow me to insert it into a collet and then
lower the quill and insert the rod into the hole and still have
enough length to allow for movement up/down and still keep
it "indexed" in the hole, and hopefully allowing only vertical
movement with no lateral movement.  Then unlock the head and crank
it up/down allowing the rod to hold the head at the correct position
while movong it up/down, and then re-locking the head.

As with all of my ideas, they always sounds good in this conceptual
stage, but I am sure there will be some unforeseen snafu which will
tilt the whole idea which I have not yet realized.  So any and all
suggestions and comments are welcomed.

LJ

----- Original Message -----

From: Glenn N

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 9:42 PM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Laser Center/Edge finder

I prefer my junkbox edgefinder built from a piece of PC copperclad board a battery and an led.  I can use the tool I plan to make the cut with to touch off the top or sides and dial in the dro for any location I want.  I use a single sided board with a ground wire attached to the mill so I can touch off on nonconductive material as well as metals.

The only low point I see with using the laser pointer is having to change tooling to use it.

YMMV

Glenn

----- Original Message -----

From: larry_zigler

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:41 AM

Subject: [mill_drill] Laser Center/Edge finder

Hello all,

I am thinking about buying this gadget, http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html ,

hoping that besides center/edge finding it might help to locate the head after moving it up or down. Does anybody actually use it? Is it really that good and accurate as they claim? Any advice would be appreciated.

Larry

Hello,
I have my RF30 home now. Its in real nice shape, only dusty and dirty
from sitting and not being used for a few years, 6-8 years I would
guess from the previous owners description.

It has particles of steel and grime in the bed slots and yellowing film
on the post and so on. What "cleaner" or "solution" do you suggest I
use to clean up?

The only need for quick replacement is the power cord. It has turned
hard and cracked in some places. Will do this after the cleaning.

Thanks, Mac

I get most of my stuff from Wholesale Tool, (including my mill/drill), and have had no complaints with the quality for the price, or availability. Fortunately, I have a WT in my city, so everything is over the counter, so I cannot comment on their mail order.

Get their catalog - it has most everything you could need.

 

Conrad in Houston.

I have been using the laser edge finder as my primary edge finder for
several months now.  My view of it is that it is a very convenient
tool.  Yes, you have to change tools, but I also use the TTS system
which makes changes easy.  Stick it in, turn it on, and move the x and
y as needed to find the edge or center.

However, I would not classify it as a high accuracy tool.  The spot
size needs to be a few mils for you to see it and then it is up to
interpretation exactly where the center is.  You probably can get
within 2 or 3 mils without much trouble.  The polarizer helps, but I
doubt the repeatability is as good as other edge finders.

Tips to get better accuracy.  for a sharp edge, position the spot so
it is half on and half off the part.  Use blue layout dye to enhance
the contrast.  Scribe a line or cross through the dye to define a
interior point- the spot noticeably brightens as it crosses the scribe
line.

Lastly - Buy lots of batteries.  Unfortunately, I have a tendency to
forget to turn it off and you can guess what happens.

Final words - great convenience but OK accuracy

John


--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "larry_zigler" <larry_zigler@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am thinking about buying this gadget,
> http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html
> <http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html>  ,
>
> hoping that besides center/edge finding it might help to locate the head
> after moving it up or down. Does anybody actually use it? Is it really
> that good and accurate as they claim? Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Larry
>