Are you talking about a 50bmg bolt. If you are in the US you can make
any for your own use that conforms to the law. I have lots of IGS
files that can be used in CadCam programs to create tool paths for
CNC. Email me if you need them.

Thanks
Doc



--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@...> wrote:
>
> Nooo ...
> Though I would love ot make a CPS type receiver  .. i.e. BR Rifle .
> BUT .. The darn broaches for the bolt lug recesses are a killer in
price ..
> You know of any other way to do that ??
>
> Randy
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of bs23voe
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:01 PM
> To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Column deflections - calculations and results
>
> Randy are you making AK receivers.
>
> Doc
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Robert George" <roberttgeorge@>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > My cuts seem to be pretty precise, etc ..
> >
> > The tolerance of your work will depend on what you're making.
> >
> > The gunsmithing you described earlier (machining slots/holes in a
> > stamped receiver) doesn't require high tolerance. A steam engine will
> > require more precision, and a home-built turbine engine even more.
> >
> > I'm building the Phil Duclos air spindle, and the bore has to be
> > turned to a tolerance of +- 0.0002" (2 tenths).  It's a big
challenge,
> > and a lot of fun, but certainly atypical of the tolerances that I do.
> >
> > > More so than the milling texts say you will Get from the average
> > > Milling machine ..
> >
> > You won't get the level of accuracy from a Mill/Drill that you will
> > from a commercial machine in good condition, but it certainly will be
> > accurate enough for most hobby projects.
> >
> > I've found that one of the biggest challenges in being a self-taught
> > (hobby) machinist is determining how much tolerance is good enough.
> >
> > I'm an engineer (electrical) by trade, so I have the natural
> > inclination to overdesign things.  The tolerances section of the
> > Machinery's Handbook was a real eye opener to me -- especially
> > interference fitting (press fits, shrink fits,...) to install
> > bearings, swing arms, etc.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Mill drill
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Mill+drill&w1=Mill+drill&w2=Rong+fu&c=2
> &s=29&.sig=_QQgddbcCSNDbSgM_TXY9A>   Rong fu
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Rong+fu&w1=Mill+drill&w2=Rong+fu&c=2&s=
> 29&.sig=K9nM_WdtlKkpvp3EPjAeNg>
>
> ________________________________
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
> *  Visit your group "mill_drill
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill> " on the web.
>
> *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 	 mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
> ________________________________
>

Hey guys HF sold both Taiwanese and Chinese versions. So some of the
HF were top of the line too. I will share a story soon about the
reason for the two designs it is great.

Doc

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "accuratemike" <mike@...> wrote:
>
> I'm with Jake. My HF 9x20 was in good shape & adjustment out of the
> box. I have since fooled with it a little, not because I had to. I was
> using it the day I got home. I have seen a Jet too, and if I had spent
> a few hundred more to get it, I'd have been foolish. MIKE
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Robert George" <roberttgeorge@>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "jrd" <jrd@> wrote:
> > >
> > > As far as I know. Heard no complaints. I have a HF 9x20 and no
> > complaints.
> > >
> > > Jake
> >
> > The Grizzly and Jet 9x20's are *much* nicer than the 9x20's I've
> > seen at Harbor Freight.
> >
> > Same deal with the 4x6, 5x6 bandsaws.
> >
> > My Jet 5x6 bandsaw is made in Taiwan, I wouldn't be surprised if
> > their 9x20's are made in Taiwan as well.  Harbor Freight's 9x20's
> > are now all made in China (they used to be made in Taiwan).  Same
> > deal with the HF Mill/Drill -- they used to be made in Taiwan, but
> > are now manufactured in mainland China.
> >
> > The Grizzly and Jet machines are also a lot more expensive.
> >
> > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > >   From: Paul E. Zoba
> > >   To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> > >   Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 10:53 AM
> > >   Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Enco 105-1132 Mill Drill
> > >
> > >
> > >   Yes, it sure looks the same but I have not heard good things
> > about Harbor Freight.  Has your friend been satisfied with his
> > purchase?
> > >
> > >   jrd <jrd@> wrote:
> > >     Probably the same machine but I noticed the small difference
> > in x and y travel for less money. I have a friend that got his on
> > sale 2 months ago at HF for $600.
> > >     http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?
> > Itemnumber=33686
> > >
> > >     Jake
> > >       ----- Original Message -----
> > >       From: pez
> > >       To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> > >       Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:24 AM
> > >       Subject: [mill_drill] Enco 105-1132 Mill Drill
> > >
> > >
> > >       I am in the market for a Mill.  I bought a small Sherline
> > Lathe a
> > >       few months ago off of Craig's List and have really enjoyed
> > learning
> > >       about metal cutting.  I was considering the Sherline Mill
> > but
> > >       decided for the same money, I would like more power and more
> > >       capacity (larger parts).  I am not a model builder - I plan
> > to use
> > >       it for some gunsmithing work.  I have a free garage bay so I
> > have
> > >       the space for it.  I have an engineering degree (electrical)
> > so I am
> > >       enjoing learning...
> > >
> > >       I saw a 25 year old one of these Enco's for sale locally
> > (Seattle
> > >       area) but it had been stored in a car port and had weather
> > exposure
> > >       and so was a mess...  but I was impressed with the size and
> > weight
> > >       and the nice feel on the table movements.
> > >
> > >       This mill is currently on sale for a little over a
> > thousand.  I
> > >       would love to hear from people who have one and can talk
> > about the
> > >       quality and would also like to hear about other comparable
> > machines
> > >       for comparable money...
> > >
> > >       Thank You - Paul
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >   Paul E. Zoba
> > >   Woodinville,  WA 98077
> > >   Mobile: 206-920-8388
> > >   paul@
> > >
> > >
> > >   SPONSORED LINKS Mill drill  Rong fu
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -----------
> > >   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> > >
> > >     a..  Visit your group "mill_drill" on the web.
> > >
> > >     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >      mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> > of Service.
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -----------
> > >
> >
>

No , not a 50 BMG ..
And I was also asked offline about the legalities of making your own
receiver ..
The following is off the www.atf.treas.gov website ..

""  A7) Does the GCA prohibit anyone from making a handgun, shotgun or
	 rifle? [Back]


	 With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a nonlicensee
provided
	 it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing
	 firearms.
	 However, a person is prohibited from making a semiautomatic assault
	 weapon or assembling a nonsporting semiautomatic rifle or
nonsporting
	 shotgun from
	 imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a

	 tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machinegun

	 will not be
	 approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm
is
	 being made for a federal or state agency. [18 U. S. C. 922( o), (r),

	 (v), and 923, 27 CFR 178.39, 178.40, 178.41 and 179.105]
""

I believe you would also have to file a ATF 1 as well .. Though it didn't
say that
In the FAQ ..

	 Randy

-----Original Message-----
From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bs23voe
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 3:51 AM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Column deflections - calculations and results

Are you talking about a 50bmg bolt. If you are in the US you can make any
for your own use that conforms to the law. I have lots of IGS files that can
be used in CadCam programs to create tool paths for CNC. Email me if you
need them.

Thanks
Doc



--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@...> wrote:
>
> Nooo ...
> Though I would love ot make a CPS type receiver  .. i.e. BR Rifle .
> BUT .. The darn broaches for the bolt lug recesses are a killer in
price ..
> You know of any other way to do that ??
>
> Randy
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of bs23voe
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:01 PM
> To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Column deflections - calculations and
> results
>
> Randy are you making AK receivers.
>
> Doc
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Robert George" <roberttgeorge@>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > My cuts seem to be pretty precise, etc ..
> >
> > The tolerance of your work will depend on what you're making.
> >
> > The gunsmithing you described earlier (machining slots/holes in a
> > stamped receiver) doesn't require high tolerance. A steam engine
> > will require more precision, and a home-built turbine engine even more.
> >
> > I'm building the Phil Duclos air spindle, and the bore has to be
> > turned to a tolerance of +- 0.0002" (2 tenths).  It's a big
challenge,
> > and a lot of fun, but certainly atypical of the tolerances that I do.
> >
> > > More so than the milling texts say you will Get from the average
> > > Milling machine ..
> >
> > You won't get the level of accuracy from a Mill/Drill that you will
> > from a commercial machine in good condition, but it certainly will
> > be accurate enough for most hobby projects.
> >
> > I've found that one of the biggest challenges in being a self-taught
> > (hobby) machinist is determining how much tolerance is good enough.
> >
> > I'm an engineer (electrical) by trade, so I have the natural
> > inclination to overdesign things.  The tolerances section of the
> > Machinery's Handbook was a real eye opener to me -- especially
> > interference fitting (press fits, shrink fits,...) to install
> > bearings, swing arms, etc.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Mill drill
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Mill+drill&w1=Mill+drill&w2=Rong+fu&c=2
> &s=29&.sig=_QQgddbcCSNDbSgM_TXY9A>        Rong fu
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Rong+fu&w1=Mill+drill&w2=Rong+fu&c=2&s=
> 29&.sig=K9nM_WdtlKkpvp3EPjAeNg>
>
> ________________________________
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
> *      Visit your group "mill_drill
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill> " on the web.
>
> *      To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>       mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> *      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
> ________________________________
>






________________________________

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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .


________________________________

Can anyone point me to a mill-drill that has the following features, if you own one please  tell me how you like it and why you choose that one.   I am looking for a mill to complement my new 9x20 lathe.   I have not seen any of these sized mills in person which would be helpful that's why I would like something comparable to my lathe.

1. A square column with dovetail
2. 3 phase motor (to achieve variable speed)
1. which VFD would you recommend
3. optional powered downfeed (easily added on or purchased with mill installed)
4. optional powered x-axis (easily added on, plug and play)
5. Good seller support

I am really torn between the X3 (for variable speed)  and the ZAY7045L but the ZAY doesn't have 3ph w/VFD.  

How expensive and difficult would it be to convert the ZAY to variable speed. 

How expensive and difficult to add powered downfeed and x-axis to the X3.

The IH mill is really pushing the price tag envelope with none of the above features as standard.

Thanks,

Fred

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "jer29_11_13" <fconte@...> wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone point me to a mill-drill that has the following
features, if
> you own one please  tell me how you like it and why you choose
that one.
> I am looking for a mill to complement my new 9x20 lathe.   I have
not
> seen any of these sized mills in person which would be helpful
that's
> why I would like something comparable to my lathe.
>
>     1. A square column with dovetail
>     2. 3 phase motor (to achieve variable speed)
>
>     1. which VFD would you recommend
>     2. optional powered downfeed (easily added on or purchased
with mill
> installed)
>     3. optional powered x-axis (easily added on, plug and play)
>     4. Good seller support
>
> I am really torn between the X3 (for variable speed)  and the
ZAY7045L
> but the ZAY doesn't have 3ph w/VFD.
>
> How expensive and difficult would it be to convert the ZAY to
variable
> speed.
>
> How expensive and difficult to add powered downfeed and x-axis to
the
> X3.
>
> The IH mill is really pushing the price tag envelope with none of
the
> above features as standard.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
I am curious to know why you want to start with 3 phase with VFD.
Most people who have gone this route did so because they have belt
driven machines and didn't want to keep changing belts (it's a real
pain) or because the motor they had died and needed replacing
anyway. On a lathe being able to wind up the speed when facing a
large diameter is useful, the large diameter requires a low speed,
as you aproach the centre a higher speed can be used. Changing speed
when milling doesn't seem necessary. Modern gearheads have
reasonable ranges for most work. Noise is not an issue with most of
these machines and intermittent cuts which is what you get from most
milling operations would mean that cogging from a single phase or dc
motor will not show up. By intermittent I am refering to the fact
that with a multi flute cutter the individual edges are in contact
with the workpiece intermittantly. Boring is one of the few examples
of non-intermittent cutting jobs on the mill.

If you want powered downfeed it is available but usualy at a price.
Adding your own is something many people have done for themselves,
only requires a geared down motor driving the fine downfeed and a
suitable clutch for manual operation if you want it. Lots of
pictures and info available in groups and on the net. I think the
drives used for the x axis could be made to do the job as well, they
have the reversing variable speed needed and a clutch, just need a
mounting and linkage. If you have a lathe and a mill this is easy.

I have 3 different VFDs all bought on the basis of low price and
they all worked fine out of the box. Changing parameters is easy on
most, just make sure it is one with buttons for doing this, some
require an add on panel to change them.

X axis drive can be bought for most machines, some vendors will fit
it for a price if you ask them but save money and do it yourself.

Martin

Carl,
  I haven't read alot of positive things about the G0519 Mill, perhaps
you have, if so let me know...

Fred

> If you want powered downfeed it is available but usualy at a
price.
> Adding your own is something many people have done for themselves,
> only requires a geared down motor driving the fine downfeed and a
> suitable clutch for manual operation if you want it. Lots of
> pictures and info available in groups and on the net. I think the
> drives used for the x axis could be made to do the job as well,
they
> have the reversing variable speed needed and a clutch, just need a
> mounting and linkage. If you have a lathe and a mill this is easy.
>
> Martin


Martin,

Thank you for such a detailed response!

Perhaps it's just me but I have looked at many of the DIY upgrades
that have been posted and find them lacking in detail, especially
for an extreme newbie like me.   Most don't have any drawings, do
not provide sources of materials needed, etc.

Aside from this and other forums I belong to if I get into trouble
making a mod. I'm on my own since I live out in the boonies of
central Florida and don't have any machinist type friends.   I am
just starting out in metalworking and am setting up a shop.   I have
a nice woodshop and welding equipment but want to get into
metalworking.

I realize that the extras cost but how much do you really save in
time and money?   The price difference of Lathemasters ZAY...FG
versus ZAY...L is $300, what is the cost for the individual parts,
time to find, tearing down and rebuilding the machine, etc. the same
goes for x-axis setup which is $239

If we're talking only saving $50-$100 is it worth it, or am I again
missing something?   Don't misunderstand I'm not loaded with $$$ but
my time is important and rather be making new stuff for which I
bought the equipment in the first place then be in the "machine kit
building hobby" as some folks like to do which is fine.

Fred

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@...> wrote:
>
> No , not a 50 BMG ..
> And I was also asked offline about the legalities of making your
> own receiver ..

I thought making (or finishing) your own receiver falls under the
ATF 80% rules?  I didn't think you needed an ATF license for the 80%
guns?

----- Original Message -----

From: jrd

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:15 AM

Subject: [mill_drill] Vise

Need a vise for my mini mill. I have tried several styles but have been disappointed so far.

 

I have been waiting for LMS to get their Kurt style 4" vise in but it looks like they may not carry it anymore (not 1755). It was the one that they compared to other companies vise and stated theirs was better. If anyone remembers.

 

I am now looking at this vise from enco.

 

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=DS425-7241

 

Anybody have any comments.

 

Jake

Randy

In the US with the ATF it is always good to write a letter to clarify
if you are not sure. They will reply in writing, and this is a cover
your backside document; when you receive the reply keep it for
reference. Do not make a move without knowing the laws, and always
perform your due diligence with the ATF. Here is what I have determined.

    Form 1 is not necessary for an individual who desires to make a
firearm for his only personal use. There is a lot of confusion about
the use of this form. Formerly, primarily used to make and register a
full auto firearm (no longer legal),  for producing a firearm with a
silencer built in, or for manufacturers to use introducing a new
firearm to the ATF that they plan to sell. The form is used as an
application to "make and register a firearm". There are no
requirements on a federal level by the ATF to register a home made
firearm. You can legally make a firearm for your own use, it must be
legal to own where you live, and you must by law be able to legally
own firearms. Be sure to check your local laws, as it must be legal to
own what ever you make.

Doc



--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@...> wrote:
>
> No , not a 50 BMG ..
> And I was also asked offline about the legalities of making your own
> receiver ..
> The following is off the www.atf.treas.gov website ..
>
> ""  A7) Does the GCA prohibit anyone from making a handgun, shotgun or
>  rifle? [Back]
>
>
>  With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a nonlicensee
> provided
>  it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing
>  firearms.
>  However, a person is prohibited from making a semiautomatic assault
>  weapon or assembling a nonsporting semiautomatic rifle or
> nonsporting
>  shotgun from
>  imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a
>
>  tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machinegun
>
>  will not be
>  approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm
> is
>  being made for a federal or state agency. [18 U. S. C. 922( o), (r),
>
>  (v), and 923, 27 CFR 178.39, 178.40, 178.41 and 179.105]
> ""
>
> I believe you would also have to file a ATF 1 as well .. Though it
didn't
> say that
> In the FAQ ..
>
>  Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of bs23voe
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 3:51 AM
> To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Column deflections - calculations and results
>
> Are you talking about a 50bmg bolt. If you are in the US you can
make any
> for your own use that conforms to the law. I have lots of IGS files
that can
> be used in CadCam programs to create tool paths for CNC. Email me if you
> need them.
>
> Thanks
> Doc
>
>
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@> wrote:
> >
> > Nooo ...
> > Though I would love ot make a CPS type receiver  .. i.e. BR Rifle .
> > BUT .. The darn broaches for the bolt lug recesses are a killer in
> price ..
> > You know of any other way to do that ??
> >
> > Randy
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of bs23voe
> > Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:01 PM
> > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Column deflections - calculations and
> > results
> >
> > Randy are you making AK receivers.
> >
> > Doc
> >
> > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Robert George" <roberttgeorge@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > My cuts seem to be pretty precise, etc ..
> > >
> > > The tolerance of your work will depend on what you're making.
> > >
> > > The gunsmithing you described earlier (machining slots/holes in a
> > > stamped receiver) doesn't require high tolerance. A steam engine
> > > will require more precision, and a home-built turbine engine
even more.
> > >
> > > I'm building the Phil Duclos air spindle, and the bore has to be
> > > turned to a tolerance of +- 0.0002" (2 tenths).  It's a big
> challenge,
> > > and a lot of fun, but certainly atypical of the tolerances that
I do.
> > >
> > > > More so than the milling texts say you will Get from the average
> > > > Milling machine ..
> > >
> > > You won't get the level of accuracy from a Mill/Drill that you will
> > > from a commercial machine in good condition, but it certainly will
> > > be accurate enough for most hobby projects.
> > >
> > > I've found that one of the biggest challenges in being a self-taught
> > > (hobby) machinist is determining how much tolerance is good enough.
> > >
> > > I'm an engineer (electrical) by trade, so I have the natural
> > > inclination to overdesign things.  The tolerances section of the
> > > Machinery's Handbook was a real eye opener to me -- especially
> > > interference fitting (press fits, shrink fits,...) to install
> > > bearings, swing arms, etc.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Mill drill
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Mill+drill&w1=Mill+drill&w2=Rong+fu&c=2
> > &s=29&.sig=_QQgddbcCSNDbSgM_TXY9A>        Rong fu
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Rong+fu&w1=Mill+drill&w2=Rong+fu&c=2&s=
> > 29&.sig=K9nM_WdtlKkpvp3EPjAeNg>
> >
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> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill> " on the web.
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> >       mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
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> > *      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service
> > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
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> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
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> *  Visit your group "mill_drill
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill> " on the web.
>
> *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 	 mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
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> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
> ________________________________
>

Robert

      To receiver is considered to be a gun, even if it is not
assembled into a functioning firearm. This being said if a receiver is
considered to be 80% complete or less it is a non gun item. You can
purchase an 80% receiver and build it into a legal gun with no federal
registration, or restrictions. You can also legally built it from raw
material too. Explore this link it has a wealth of information.


http://www.tanneryshop.com/MESSAGEBOARD.html

Doc




--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Robert George" <roberttgeorge@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" <Rswart1@> wrote:
> >
> > No , not a 50 BMG ..
> > And I was also asked offline about the legalities of making your
> > own receiver ..
>
> I thought making (or finishing) your own receiver falls under the
> ATF 80% rules?  I didn't think you needed an ATF license for the 80%
> guns?
>

Hello Jake:

 you rascal I hate to say I told you so but I told you so!!!!!!
I have the same vise but bought it at Discount_machinery. It fits my mill/Drill very well but is WAY too big for the mini.
I'm sure you will have a use for it. I took the rotary plate off and hung it on the wall. I don't know if I will ever use that.

George

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul E. Zoba

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:17 PM

Subject: [mill_drill] Mini Mill

So, I did it.  I found a Mini Mill yesterday on Craig's List and bought it.  Came with a nice home welded rolling work bench with plexiglass sides (to contain chips) and some assorted tooling, including a very nice precision vise from Little Machine Shop. 

 

Now I need to get it squared up.  Can anyone point me to a detailed set of instructions on how to go about this?  I have some machinist squares and a couple inexpensive dial indicators...  Thanks!

Paul E. Zoba
Woodinville,  WA 98077
Mobile: 206-920-8388
paul@...

Paul

Work on a milling machine is most often held in a vise clamped onto the bed. To make features aligned with the edges of the stock, it's necessary to align the vise with the feed axes of the mill. To do this, mount the vise on the bed and secure it with T-bolts, but only lightly so as to permit adjustment of the orientation of the vise. Mount a dial indicator in the spindle of the machine with the probe facing away from you. Lower the spindle and run the bed of the table back until the fixed jaw of the vise is in contact with the indicator and further until the indicator registers one half of a revolution. Set the bezel to zero. Use the cross feed to run the indicator across the face of the vise. If the vise is squared, the indictor will remain at zero. If the dial indicator does not read zero, tap lightly with a soft hammer to realign the vise reduce the indicator reading to half of its previous value. Iterate this procedure until the dial indicator reads zero through the full travel across the face of the vise. Tighten down the T-bolts be careful not to change the vise orientation. Recheck the alignment of the vise

I hope this helps

 

T.H. Zabel
Zabel Publications
2400 Harvard Way #110
Reno, NV 89502
Publishers of Machinist Reference Library
See our web site at http://machinistinfo.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul E. Zoba

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:17 PM

Subject: [mill_drill] Mini Mill

So, I did it.  I found a Mini Mill yesterday on Craig's List and bought it.  Came with a nice home welded rolling work bench with plexiglass sides (to contain chips) and some assorted tooling, including a very nice precision vise from Little Machine Shop. 

 

Now I need to get it squared up.  Can anyone point me to a detailed set of instructions on how to go about this?  I have some machinist squares and a couple inexpensive dial indicators...  Thanks!

Paul E. Zoba
Woodinville,  WA 98077
Mobile: 206-920-8388
paul@...

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul E. Zoba

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:52 PM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Mini Mill

This helps, thanks.  Two questions:

1. how do you secure the Indicator into the spindle?  I have a TTC indicator with no other mounting accessories.  Do I need to make something to mount it to that can be chucked up?

 

2. how do I go about squaring the head to the table?

Metalworking Books <metalworking_books@hotmailcom> wrote:

Paul

Work on a milling machine is most often held in a vise clamped onto the bed. To make features aligned with the edges of the stock, it's necessary to align the vise with the feed axes of the mill. To do this, mount the vise on the bed and secure it with T-bolts, but only lightly so as to permit adjustment of the orientation of the vise. Mount a dial indicator in the spindle of the machine with the probe facing away from you. Lower the spindle and run the bed of the table back until the fixed jaw of the vise is in contact with the indicator and further until the indicator registers one half of a revolution. Set the bezel to zero. Use the cross feed to run the indicator across the face of the vise. If the vise is squared, the indictor will remain at zero. If the dial indicator does not read zero, tap lightly with a soft hammer to realign the vise reduce the indicator reading to half of its previous value. Iterate this procedure until the dial indicator reads zero through the full travel across the face of the vise. Tighten down the T-bolts be careful not to change the vise orientation. Recheck the alignment of the vise

I hope this helps

 

T.H. Zabel
Zabel Publications
2400 Harvard Way #110
Reno, NV 89502
Publishers of Machinist Reference Library
See our web site at http://machinistinfo.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul E. Zoba

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:17 PM

Subject: [mill_drill] Mini Mill

So, I did it.  I found a Mini Mill yesterday on Craig's List and bought it.  Came with a nice home welded rolling work bench with plexiglass sides (to contain chips) and some assorted tooling, including a very nice precision vise from Little Machine Shop. 

 

Now I need to get it squared up.  Can anyone point me to a detailed set of instructions on how to go about this?  I have some machinist squares and a couple inexpensive dial indicators...  Thanks!

Paul E. Zoba
Woodinville,  WA 98077
Mobile: 206-920-8388
paul@...

Paul E. Zoba
Woodinville,  WA 98077
Mobile: 206-920-8388
paul@...

----- Original Message -----

From: George Headley

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 1:16 PM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Vise

Hello Jake:

 you rascal I hate to say I told you so but I told you so!!!!!!
I have the same vise but bought it at Discount_machinery. It fits my mill/Drill very well but is WAY too big for the mini.
I'm sure you will have a use for it. I took the rotary plate off and hung it on the wall. I don't know if I will ever use that.

George

----- Original Message -----

From: George Headley

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 1:16 PM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Vise

Hello Jake:

 you rascal I hate to say I told you so but I told you so!!!!!!
I have the same vise but bought it at Discount_machinery. It fits my mill/Drill very well but is WAY too big for the mini.
I'm sure you will have a use for it. I took the rotary plate off and hung it on the wall. I don't know if I will ever use that.

George

Jake: What is the general quality of your new vise? I know you said it had sharp edges but other than that does it seem pretty nice?

I am pretty well satisfied with mine and from the pictures you posted when you were making the decision I think we have the same unit. I have really put it thru the paces with some heavy milling on a 6X6X6 angle plate.Most of the milling was done holding the plate in the vise and it was a dream to work with.

 I did a stupid thing today, I had finished the project which is a column brace for the mini but the finished deminsions on one surface was about .001 off so I clamped it back down to the table just to take a shade off that edge. I guess I got impatient and didn't use but two clamps instead of the normal four.  You guessed it!  The cutter decided to take a left turn right into my part. One of the clamps decided to let go even though I was taking just a shade off the edge. I stopped the cut before it did much damage but it sure did hurt my feelings. I saw what a difference a dull endmill makes. It was cutting OK but had a lot more vibration than usual. I guess I'll not be in such a hurry next time.

Take care.

George

The March Hot Deals flyer has Enco's 45 clone on sale, $1495 base machine and $1645 w/stand.

Unfortunately no free shipping... :?(

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMPI?PMPANO=0333797&PMKBNO=1409&PMPAGE=13

Fred

From: George Headley

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 4:35 PM

Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Vise

Jake: What is the general quality of your new vise? I know you said it had sharp edges but other than that does it seem pretty nice?

I am pretty well satisfied with mine and from the pictures you posted when you were making the decision I think we have the same unit. I have really put it thru the paces with some heavy milling on a 6X6X6 angle plate.Most of the milling was done holding the plate in the vise and it was a dream to work with.

 I did a stupid thing today, I had finished the project which is a column brace for the mini but the finished deminsions on one surface was about .001 off so I clamped it back down to the table just to take a shade off that edge. I guess I got impatient and didn't use but two clamps instead of the normal four.  You guessed it!  The cutter decided to take a left turn right into my part. One of the clamps decided to let go even though I was taking just a shade off the edge. I stopped the cut before it did much damage but it sure did hurt my feelings. I saw what a difference a dull endmill makes. It was cutting OK but had a lot more vibration than usual. I guess I'll not be in such a hurry next time.

Take care.

George

----- Original Message -----

From: mikaelc

To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 6:56 PM

Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Vise

 

 

Look at some of the “precision toolmaker’s vises” ….. they are similar to what Sherline sells, but are of steel (instead of aluminum). They should be just about right for the smaller mills.

 

A friend of mine with a Sherline found one of the import rotary tables on sale and bought it some years back … 6-inch … and actually got it fitted on his Sherline! Needless to say, it was a bit large for the mill, bit it worked for what he wanted to use it for …

 

 

Mike

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jrd
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 5:18 PM
To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Vise

 

The quality doesn't seem to bad. Just what I expected. The edges are also dulled on all of it except the jaws, which are sharp. Pretty heavy too.

 

I wish someone would make a decent 4" or 5" vise that isn't so big.

 

Jake

 

---

Has anyone converted their Bench Mill/Drill to CNC?

If so - can you provide some pictures, sources, websites, etc?

Thanks a lot,

Joe

>
>
> Martin,
>
> Thank you for such a detailed response!
>
> Perhaps it's just me but I have looked at many of the DIY upgrades
> that have been posted and find them lacking in detail, especially
> for an extreme newbie like me.   Most don't have any drawings, do
> not provide sources of materials needed, etc.

I tend to agree with you w.r.t. $ versus time ... a lot of the stock
products, with careful shopping, are more economical than the time
required to build it yourself.  I would put the X-feed in that
category.  You can get one for ~$200.  You also avoid the boot strap
issues of trying to mill parts to modify the mill your building the
parts on.


> Aside from this and other forums I belong to if I get into trouble
> making a mod. I'm on my own since I live out in the boonies of
> central Florida and don't have any machinist type friends.   I am
> just starting out in metalworking and am setting up a shop.   I
have
> a nice woodshop and welding equipment but want to get into
> metalworking.

Exactly what happened to me.  The dust from woodworking finally
became too much, and I switched to metal working.  I would never go
back, and do very little woodworking now. My most frequent project
today are repair parts for just about everyone I know...


> I realize that the extras cost but how much do you really save in
> time and money?   The price difference of Lathemasters ZAY...FG
> versus ZAY...L is $300, what is the cost for the individual parts,
> time to find, tearing down and rebuilding the machine, etc. the
same
> goes for x-axis setup which is $239

I'm skeptical about rebuilding a machine unless you have access to
another machine on which to make the parts.

>
> If we're talking only saving $50-$100 is it worth it, or am I
again
> missing something?   Don't misunderstand I'm not loaded with $$$
but
> my time is important and rather be making new stuff for which I
> bought the equipment in the first place then be in the "machine
kit
> building hobby" as some folks like to do which is fine.

Personally, I buy everything that isn't outrageously priced or needs
to be very accurate.  Therefore, I'm building a toolpost grinder ...
but I bought LOTS of other tooling.

------------------------------
As for your other questions, here's some input from the owner of a
Penn Tools DM-45 (gearhead, 700lb, dovetail column) and a HF 12x30
Lathe:

1) Dovetails --> settle for nothing less; just search the archives
for the endless debate on round versus dovetail.

2) 3phase + VFD --> Personally, I would not worry about variable
speed for two reasons.  (a) for home milling you can get enough
variability out of a gear-head mill, (b) you're not doing production
work so you can just slow down.  Setup will take 5X as long as the
cutting.  Asset utilization is not critical

3) X-axis feed --> I have one, it's useful for facing, but you can
live without it.  Make sure you get one that has a "fast jog"
feature to avoid aggravating traverse times.

4) Seller support -- I had no problem with Penn Tools, but also did
not need to ask for much either.

On spending your $, two points:

1) Personally, if I was debating a VFD, I would spend the same $ on
an X-Y-Z or X-Y-Quill DRO system.  A mill without a DRO is an order
of magnitude less useful than one with.  X-Y will cost you $500-$600
for a 30"X9" table.  Some lower (you assemble ShumaTech) and some
higher (Accurite). I  personally have a X-Y Mitutoyo capacitive
system, rock solid, two years old from Penn tools at $525. I also
have a quill Z-axis that cost me less than $50, but I can't remember
where I got it.

2) Remember that tooling will cost you about as much as your mill.
Your minimum set should include:

    a good vise with hold-down jaws
    clamp set
    R8 end-mill holders
       (personally, I don't like collets for end-mills .. they slip)
    end-mills -- at least one set, plus roughers
    parallels
    1-2-3 blocks
    measuring tools, in addition to what you already have, include:
          test indicator
          edge finder
          dial indicator for tramming the mill head
    over-under ream set
    counter sink
    Letter/number drill bit set
    a *good* drill chuck and R8 taper adapter
    decent carbide-tipped face mill

And that's before you get into the interesting stuff like solid
carbide end mills (fabulous beasts!), rotary tables (4th axis), sine
tables and v-blocks.  This list is endless.

Dan.

--- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "joecomunale1" <joecomunale@...>
wrote:
>
> Has anyone converted their Bench Mill/Drill to CNC?
>
> If so - can you provide some pictures, sources, websites, etc?
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> Joe
>

This is *the* home shop project, IMHO.  I have not done it --
insufficient time -- but there are 1 bazillion garage-shop suppliers
and 1.5 bazillion discussion streams.  For starters, search Yahoo for
the CAD_CAM* groups.  There are several.  Then look at these web sites:

www.industrialhobbies.com
www.stepperworld.com
http://www.yeagerautomation.com/ace.htm
http://www.maxnc.com/

I'm not recommending any of these places ... but they all have links
to other sites and those have other links and its ... well endless.
You'll find just about every variant in one night of searching.

Now ... PERSONAL OPINION ON ....

regardless of what you read, converting your machine will cost about
twice as much as anyone says it will.  Most of the CNC conversions
start with "I found these ball screws on eBay," and believe me ... its
a long way from eBay to CNC.  In addition, the software -- decent G-
code generator, step/direction driver, etc.  can exceed the cost of
the hardware.

... PERSONAL OPINION OFF ...

Please, no flames ....

Dan.





CAD_CAM_