Saw that on the HAMB a while ago;the story was that Goodguys
only made money on one big event per year,and that was enough
to support all the other events on the schedule.Of course,when
that one event gets rained out,the Bean Counters start to cry.



> I just happened to find this today. Looks like it was as of Nov
22nd.
> The Goodguys Vintage Drag Racing Association will no longer stage
> nostalgia drag race events at Famoso Raceway. The Goodguys/VRA and
the
> new lease holders of Famoso Raceway reached an agreement in which
Famoso
> Raceway will now conduct the event. Blake and Charles Bowser will
buy
> all of Goodguys' rights and interests in the March Meet and will
stage
> the March Meet themselves.
>
> The March Meet, left for dead in the late 1980's and early 1990s,
was
> resurrected by the Goodguys/VRA and enjoyed a tremendous resurgence
in
> recent years. "We built the March Meet into the world's largest
> nostalgia drag racing event and we're proud of that. It was our
biggie -
> the one event that meant everything to the Goodguys/VRA and the
> competitors. We are confident however; the ownership of Famoso
Raceway
> will take good care of the March Meet. The vintage drag racing
teams who
> brought so much excitement to Goodguys and the fans will still be
able
> to race at the March Meet for many years to come. We can't thank the
> racers enough for their professionalism and support over the
years."
>
> Goodguys/VRA will not promote any vintage drag races in the Western
US
> region in 2007 but will continue to stage vintage drag races at the
Hot
> Rod Nationals at Indianapolis Raceway Park as well as Friday Night
Drags
> at Seattle and Columbus.
>

I just happened to find this today. Looks like it was as of Nov 22^nd.

The Goodguys Vintage Drag Racing Association will no longer stage nostalgia drag race events at Famoso Raceway. The Goodguys/VRA and the new lease holders of Famoso Raceway reached an agreement in which Famoso Raceway will now conduct the event. Blake and Charles Bowser will buy all of Goodguys’ rights and interests in the March Meet and will stage the March Meet themselves.

The March Meet, left for dead in the late 1980’s and early 1990s, was resurrected by the Goodguys/VRA and enjoyed a tremendous resurgence in recent years. “We built the March Meet into the world’s largest nostalgia drag racing event and we’re proud of that. It was our biggie – the one event that meant everything to the Goodguys/VRA and the competitors. We are confident however; the ownership of Famoso Raceway will take good care of the March Meet. The vintage drag racing teams who brought so much excitement to Goodguys and the fans will still be able to race at the March Meet for many years to come. We can’t thank the racers enough for their professionalism and support over the years.”

Goodguys/VRA will not promote any vintage drag races in the Western US region in 2007 but will continue to stage vintage drag races at the Hot Rod Nationals at Indianapolis Raceway Park as well as Friday Night Drags at Seattle and Columbus.

Saw Jim Bailie's work in the new book from Thom Taylor:
Hot Rod & Custom Car Chronicle.
2 pages describing the work he did on Nadean,
with pictures of the finished car.

Didn't see much bare metal,mostly complete cars from big names.

$30 at Amazon.com and better book stores near you.
< http://tinyurl.com/skcaz >

----- Original Message -----

From: jvarnell@...

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 10:08 AM

Subject: RE: [metalshapers] English wheel (or kit)

My English wheel was built with out a kit.  All the parts came from Northern tool,  and Liberty metal.  The 2” by 8” top wheel is a caster that I chucked up in my lathe to straiten to flat surface.  The screw is a 2 ton trailer jack. The quick disconnect is hand made using flat stock and round bar.  The basic shape for the anvils I think I got on the web site but you can buy the anvils from on eBay.

You should try to build it your self.  Its fun.

------------------------------------------------------------------
John D. Varnell

---

From: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:metalshapers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n8mac_tinbender
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:15 PM
To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [metalshapers] English wheel (or kit)

I'm looking for the best English wheel (or kit) I can find for $500.
I'm a twenty-six year old sheetmetal worker with nine years of
experience who has never done any work with an English wheel-but I'm
looking to begin. Can anyone direct me to any resources on the net
where I might find what I'm looking for?

Ian Griffith (unklian) has posted a new message titled "Re: DIY Photo Etching.".

Posted: Sat, Dec 2nd, 2006 - 1:50PM

Another variation,this method should work a little faster. http://steampunkworkshop.[...]h.shtml		unklian

Bring your questions and comments:< http://www.metalshapers.org/chat/ >

Nothing to Buy,No Salesmen will call.

Admission,and parking are FREE.

You might want to look at the ewheel building seminar I did on the MetalMeet
site:

http://metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3370

Different approach...

Kerry Pinkerton
Imperial Wheeling Machines
http://wheelingmachines.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "n8mac_tinbender" <macfam77@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:14 PM
Subject: [metalshapers] English wheel (or kit)


I'm looking for the best English wheel (or kit) I can find for $500.
I'm a twenty-six year old sheetmetal worker with nine years of
experience who has never done any work with an English wheel-but I'm
looking to begin. Can anyone direct me to any resources on the net
where I might find what I'm looking for?



Introduce yourselves here:
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We now have the MSA Forums working. The forums will store our images and
will not be erased. The moderators of MSA would like for all "keeper" posts
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Just a quick reminder to Yahoo MSA members:

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One new feature is Member Search, where you can locate members based on several
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Kerry
          Excellent post on MM on E-wheel build,lots of great info there
that people can use in their own build.
       One question, on the use of mild steel bar stock for lower
anvils. Did it work well or ? .
   I used 4100 series for mine ,but i have always wondered how well
Mild steel would actually do in that situation.
  Thanks ,GordonB

 This visegrip mod is so handy I'm sure someone must make them, but for 20 min. work and a cheap set of visegrips you can make a set . They work so well  for tacking  small pieces at 90 deg. I thought I'd pass it along .

 

Jim Bailie

---

Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.

Jim that is an awesome idea.  I can't tell you how many time I can use
something like that because I will be too busy making a set (or 2 for
myself) thanks for shareing your good idea.


--- In metalshapers@yahoogroups.com, jimb1m@... wrote:
>
>  This visegrip mod is so handy I'm sure someone must make them, but
for 20 min. work and a cheap set of visegrips you can make a set . They
work so well  for tacking  small pieces at 90 deg. I thought I'd pass it
along .
>

> Jim Bailie
>
______________________________________________________________
__________
> Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-
leading spam and email virus protection.
>

I cross posted this idea , due credit given, to the MSA blacksmiths
group on yahoo.

Mike Graf

Thanks for the kind words Gordon.  I wrote it to help folks who want to
build their own.  I have no idea what the steel was.  I suspect 10xx.  When
I made my own anvils, I did notice that after some heavy use, the flats
would get 'flatter', ie wider as the metal was squeezed a bit.  This is one
of the reasons I suggest 4140 etc.

Unless you're really into machining as a hobby, imho, it's just not
effective to make your own rollers.  Hoosier Pattern, Custom Die and others
sell much better rollers than the typical guy can turn out in his home shop
and they will be concentric.  The problem (or maybe the saving grace) with
the typical 3 pieces of tubing and a trailer jack Ewheel is that they are so
flexible that an out of round anvil or upper doesn't really make much
difference, the frame just flexes a little more.  The stiffer the frame, the
more efficient it it and the better the rollers need to be.

That's my opinion anyway...everyone has at least one and mine is worth at
least twice what you paid to get it....  :)

Kerry Pinkerton
http://wheelingmachines.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Bartlett" <stingshp@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 8:07 PM
Subject: [metalshapers] Re: English wheel (or kit)


Kerry
          Excellent post on MM on E-wheel build,lots of great info there
that people can use in their own build.
       One question, on the use of mild steel bar stock for lower
anvils. Did it work well or ? .
   I used 4100 series for mine ,but i have always wondered how well
Mild steel would actually do in that situation.
  Thanks ,GordonB



Introduce yourselves here:
http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/cforums.cgi?forumid=108921644329407

We now have the MSA Forums working. The forums will store our images and
will not be erased. The moderators of MSA would like for all "keeper" posts
with good technical information and photos, be placed in the forums at the
MSA web site:
http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/cfdirectory.cgi?categoryid=9990091247057
The forum messages are also forwarded to this email group so you can get
them all emailed to you.

Information about copyright policy for materials posted to this group can be
found here: http://metalshapers.org/copyright/index.htm

For those who do not get individual e-mails (with the images) -- you can
still get the images by subscribing to dailies at the following address:
http://gaudeteforge.com/mailman/listinfo/shadow_gaudeteforge.com

If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish to maintain membership
privileges -- simply edit your membership for "NO EMAIL" at the following
link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?referer=1


Yahoo! Groups Links

Kerry
       I figured something along those lines of "Mushing Out', pretty
much the same as the Plannishing Dies i made from M.S. .
      Having spent a good bit of time with my own lathe i figured i'd
make my own from #41xx  .Good Night , what a time eater and I'm really
not happy with the results . I took a cold hard look at manufactured
anvils ,price, material  and finish quality make them a pretty  fair
deal.
   In a conversation with Charles Fennen last night I really feel that
that my large E-wheel with equally large anvils  is just that "Too
Large ".
  With Ian's thoughts on Small Bench Wheel has me leaning for something
with better access to small panels i work on more than i figured when i
built the E-wheel in the first place . So this time I'll be buying
lower Anvils verus making them .
  Thanks for getting back to me Kerry, I guess everyone else is in the
Shop building something?
  GordonB

Kerry
I figured something along those lines of "Mushing Out', pretty
much the same as the Plannishing Dies i made from M.S. .
Having spent a good bit of time with my own lathe i figured i'd
make my own from #41xx .Good Night , what a time eater and I'm really
not happy with the results . I took a cold hard look at manufactured
anvils ,price, material and finish quality make them a pretty fair
deal.
In a conversation with Charles Fennen last night I really feel that
that my large E-wheel with equally large anvils is just that "Too
Large ".
With Ian's thoughts on Small Bench Wheel has me leaning for something
with better access to small panels i work on more than i figured when i
built the E-wheel in the first place . So this time I'll be buying
lower Anvils verus making them .
Thanks for getting back to me Kerry, I guess everyone else is in the
Shop building something?
GordonB

Ian Griffith (unklian) has posted a new message titled "Bench Top Wheel ?".

Posted: Wed, Dec 6th, 2006 - 10:07PM

After some discussion in the Saturday Night Metalshapers Chat, I thought I'd post a quick sketch of the rough concept. Nothing is written is stone at this point,as far as material sizes and exact layout. The idea was to make a frame,from offcuts,and pieces "too small to save". It has to be large enough,and stiff enough,to be practical; small enough to fit on a bench top. It would be nice if the bare frame was light enough to ship by courier. The horizontal,and vertical elements are 3/4" tubes. Vertical column is straight on the inboard side,tapered on back and both sides. Perhaps 6" sq at top and bottom,8" sq in the middle. Diagonals are 3/8". Compact lower adjuster,as outlined in an earlier post,with a custom 4" handwheel. Upper wheel is a 6" x 2" caster wheel. 30" tall,24" outside to outside. Suggestions welcome.		unklian
	Attached Files: bench_wheel_dim.jpg (9 kb)

Ian Griffith (unklian) has posted a new message titled "Re: Budget Bench Top Wheel ?".

Posted: Wed, Dec 6th, 2006 - 10:18PM

Part of the idea,in this design,is to make a complete English Wheel without specialized machining,and use a minimum of purchased parts. Upper and lower yokes will bolt in place. Small handwheels are available on Ebay,cheap. But the hole in the handwheel influences the size of the screw for the adjuster.I'll make one from scratch.		unklian

Ian,
  Nice idea for a bench wheel.I like the truss configuration. If you
replaced the 3/4" tubes with maybe 2-1/2"wide  x 1/8" thick strap, you
would essentially get an octet truss with some of the triangles hidden
in the plane of the strap. This would make the frame way moe stiffa
and eliminate twist. I think the task of welding might actually be
easier too.
   Frank

Frank
  Soon as i saw his drawing i thought of your design Frank .The truss
work has always intriged me . I guess i read about Bucky Fuller to
much .
    I'm working on a Old Skool Chopper right now for a customer . I'll
start on the Sissy Bar tomorrow which is the only real metalwork of
interest here . I'll do a quick write up/pics in a couple of days .
GordonB

I'm assuming the frame won't be stiff enough as designed,
so I've got some .062" sheet to wrap it in.

I could make the whole thing from just .062"sheet,
but that wouldn't be stiff enough either,without
making the frame MUCH bulkier.

The other option is to step up to heavier plate,
instead of tubes;which might be a better idea for
a "U-Weld Kit".All the parts would be pre-cut,and
numbered,just a matter of tacking and welding.




>  Ian,
>  Nice idea for a bench wheel.I like the truss configuration. If you
> replaced the 3/4" tubes with maybe 2-1/2"wide  x 1/8" thick strap, you
> would essentially get an octet truss with some of the triangles hidden
> in the plane of the strap. This would make the frame way moe stiffa
> and eliminate twist. I think the task of welding might actually be
> easier too.
>   Frank
>

Kerry Pinkerton (pinkertonkap) has posted a new message titled "Re: Bench Top Wheel ?".

Posted: Thurs, Dec 7th, 2006 - 8:40AM

I had a very similar design drawn up a few years back. In considering it, I decided the welding and cutting all the angles would be more trouble than it was worth. The small machines we build from 5x3x3/16" rectangular tubing are 23" throat. This tubing is readily available and not expensive. The Model 23B is already very stiff, cutting the frame down to a 19" throat (24" to back of frame)would make it very stiff...up from 10 to 15 on Richard Fergusons stiffness scale. Moving up to 6x3x1/4 moves it up to 42.7 which is VERY, VERY stiff! By contrast 4x4x1/4" is 8.2. Kerry Pinkerton Imperial Wheeling Machines http://wheelingmachines.com		pinkertonkap

Richard Ferguson (raferguson) has posted a new message titled "Re: Bench Top Wheel ?".

Posted: Thurs, Dec 7th, 2006 - 11:48AM

My reaction is that it looks like a lot of pieces to fit together, a lot of time. If you are looking at the aesthetics, it is hard to beat the frames made of two flame or plasma cut C-shaped pieces and then weld in flat bar between them, but it is a lot of welding. You could build a frame from 3 or 4 pieces of tubing, and keep the time down. I am fortunate to have a local steel shop that will cut me 5 feet of something if that is what I need. 20 feet of 3 by 5 by 3/16 would weigh about 200 pounds, so I would guess that 20 feet might cost $100 or so. Kerry made some good suggestions about tubing sizes. If you use a new design, then you don't know how stiff it will turn out, unless you have sophisticated analytical tools. A good reason to copy an existing design that you know is good, or use my spreadsheet to calculate the stiffness of a simple tubing frame. Adding metal until it feels right assumes that you have enough experience to know how it should feel, but is a reasonable approach if you have enough experience to know what you want. There are a lot of bench top wheels out there with very limp frames, including most of the commercial wheels. Richard		raferguson

My 24" wheel frame needed a .008" shim to get the alignment correct.
Sulpy's 48" wheel needed .012" shim,IIRC.  Maybe I got lucky.

Bolting the yokes on makes alignment much easier.



> A way around all the welding is to bolt the two C frames together.
This is also eliminates the alignment issues that come with all the
welding.  The Hoosier Pattern e-wheel uses this approach and it work
great.
>
> Howard Booster
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>