Hi Dan
    I saw your post about new electronics for your CNC and wondered what
you are using?  I need to replace the electronic on mine one of these
days and would like to hear what other people are using.
                                         Thanks
                                          Gary

carbuilder wrote:
>
> I guess after i get the new electronics on my cnc mill finished then probley
> that should be the next thing to handle for shop tool buys. I am going to by
> a bigger lathe and a pullmax but this will come as the next shop bought tool
> yes i am tired of burning up and the weld splater from the wire feed I want
> to get it where every thing is tig so much nicer looking also have you ever
> herd of a weld plain or something on that order I saw an add on one it is
> for taking off excess weld on plate stock welds no grinding buy the add, I
> will be checking into that also arent new tools for toys great in todays
> tecnology thanks Dan Pascoe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: hemirambler <jbarnes8@...>
> To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 9:58 AM
> Subject: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce
> yourselves!!!!!
>
> Hi Dan, In short YES.  The larger TIG machines will have a water
> valve (solenoid) that will only flow water (read "water" as coolant)
> when you are welding. So I guess some people might think you need a
> valve (solenoid) when in actuality you don't. To me it is one more
> thing to break. Personal preference I guess.
> All you really need is a water cooler, torch and lines. When bought
> new water coolers can be a tad expensive, however you can also make a
> cheap effective unit with a littel scrouging around. A lot of the
> older (industrial) coolers used a carbonator pump (easy to find) to
> circulate the coolant. I have even seen guys skip the radiator and
> simply use water circulated into large container of water. Some of
> the earlier industrial units skipped all that and simple hooked up
> the torch to  your tap water and didn't even bother to recycle it
> just let it drain out.
> For me I just picked up a used water cooler that I found on Ebay.
> These are normaly pretty reliable devices and if they do need work
> they are easy to fix. Mine had a bad fan, there was  thermal fuse
> that had blown - easy fix. I also ended up swapping in computer (ball
> bearing fan) for the factory one since they are far more reliable and
> use less current.
> Once you have a cooler all you need is a line set and torch.
>  I swaped the factory switch on mine for on that has a built in light
> so I would know for sure it was "ON"
> Depending on your particular welder it can also be a good idea to
> wire the cooler such that when the welder is on so is the cooler. I
> couldn't do this on mine because my current 220V (with a ground)
> power didn't have a neutral and my cooler was 110V (needs a neutral).
> SOme coolers are 220V so that may make a difference when you're
> looking.
>
> I probably babbled much of what you already knew but in case anyone
> else was curious I figured it couldn't hurt.
>
> Jacin in Ohio
>
> P.S. Hey Dan, ever welded so much that you were burning your hand to
> complete the weld???? I used to do that quite often with my air
> cooled torch. And too often that was on steel. Aluminum was nearly
> impossible unless it was thin sheet. I used to wear my arc welding
> gloves instead if the thin TIG gloves when TIG welding so it would
> give me a few extra seconds <smile>. Now I go at it and never give it
> a thought.......To me that was worth the couple hundred it cost me.
> For your 175 with water you would only be held back by what ever duty
> cycle your machine has. That's better than burned fingers <grin>
>
> -- In metalshapers@y..., "carbuilder" <carbuilder@n...> wrote:
> > Jacin can you convert a air cooled unit to water  cooled buy just
> buying a
> > new torch unit i have a 175 also i like the idea of a cooler torch
> to be
> > able to weld 1/8 or 1/4  stuff or do i have to get another machine
> thanks
> > Dan Pascoe
>
> If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish to maintain membership
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> and the text to be used on the Metalshapers web site, but you are in no way
> giving up any of your rights to your photos or wording. No content of this
> discussion group may be reproduced without written permission from the
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You could always stain the flames on.
               Gary

Rob Elliott wrote:
>
> tim,
>    happy birthday!!! you're not to old for another
> project. a woody would be perfect (grin), although
> that leaves little room for painting flames (big
> grin).
>
> rob
>
> --- tkbowman <tkbowman@...> wrote:
> > Randy:
> >
> > I turned 57 today and I've found that life just
> > continues to get
> > better.  I bought and rode my first motorcycle at
> > 56, built an EW at
> > 56, learned of Metalshapers at 55, acquired a '63
> > 1/2 XL at 54, rode
> > my bicycle 200 miles from Seattle to Portland at 50,
> > 51, and 52, and
> > more that I can't remember! <grin>  Still working on
> > those
> > metalshaping skills, too.
> >
> > Tim in Burien
> > "He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep in
> > order to gain that
> > which he cannot lose"
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In metalshapers@y..., Terry Cowan <terry@m...>
> > wrote:
> > > Jim,
> > >
> > > You really are old...
> > >
> > > But I have to admit -- you really don't look it.
> > >
> > > The three turning points in my life were -- the
> > first time someone
> > called
> > > me "sir".
> > >
> > >
> > > when the eye doctor said "that's what happens when
> > you turn forty".
> > >
> > > And when my doctor said "your are in pretty good
> > shape for a man
> > YOUR AGE".
> > >
> > > I'm glad to hear that you are pumped up for
> > FormFest -- you will
> > enjoy it
> > > and learn a lot.
> > >
> > > Terry
> > >
> > >
> > > At 03:24 PM 8/31/02 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >Hi Randy,
> > > >   I turned 59 Monday, so I guess I need to pile
> > on Randy too
> > (grin).
> > > >Actually people I went to school with have aged,
> > but I have stayed
> > > >the same. That always gets a big laugh from my
> > wife. Anyways, this
> > > >old dog is ready to learn a bunch of new
> > metalshaping tricks. See
> > you
> > > >all in Huntsville.
> > > >Jim Russell
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >   Hi Rex,
> > > > >   Welcome to metalshapers! It's nice to see a
> > "latter 50's guy"
> > > >with such enthusiasm. I have spoken with many
> > guys your age while
> > > >doing metalshaping demo's for my 'ol buddy Gulley
> > and most of them
> > > >have the idea they're too old to learn. Nonsense,
> > I say. Jump right
> > > >in there and get the 'ol hands dirty!!!
> > > > >   You have a top notch group working on your
> > coupe. Can't wait
> > to
> > > >see it finished.
> > > > >   Randy
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > >ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
> >
> ><http://rd.yahoo.com/M=231282.2213026.3686935.1695105/D=egroupweb/S=1
> >
> 705062985:HM/A=1190494/R=0/*http://clickserve.cc-dt.com/link/click?
> > lid=41000000000411524>4732c11.jpg
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish
> > to maintain
> > membership
> > > >privileges -- simply edit your membership for "NO
> > EMAIL" at the
> > following link:
> > > ><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?
> >
> referer=1>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?referer=1
> > > >
> > > >To leave the group and discontinue all membership
> > privileges --
> > send an
> > > >e-mail to: metalshapers-unsubscribe@g...
> > > >
> > > >By posting photos and text here, you are giving
> > permission for the
> > photos
> > > >and the text to be used on the Metalshapers web
> > site, but you are
> > in no
> > > >way giving up any of your rights to your photos
> > or wording. No
> > content of
> > > >this discussion group may be reproduced without
> > written permission
> > from
> > > >the Metalshapers Association. Photo usage will
> > require permission
> > from the
> > > >owner of the photo.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> > > ><http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms
> > of Service.
> > >
> > >
> > > Terry Cowan
> >
> >
>
> =====
> Currently At Bat: '83 malibu wagon (aka the phantom 56)
> Pinch Hitting: '55 chev pu (it's really in purgatory)
> In The Dugout: '50 Ford 2dr, '37 & '39 Plymouth pu's, '68 Buick GS, '63
Skylark Convertable, '48 Plymouth Sedan.
> Roaming Wild & Guzzling Gas In The Outfield: '70 Chevy Radical Custom pu aka
"Chopp"
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
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>
> By posting photos and text here, you are giving permission for the photos and
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up any of your rights to your photos or wording. No content of this discussion
group may be reproduced without written permission from the Metalshapers
Association. Photo usage will require permission from the owner of the photo.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

-----Original Message-----
From: unklian [mailto:voicesinmyhead@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 9:09 PM
To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [metalshapers] Re: Carlisle or Hershey??ooopps!

Lets try again.When is Hershey?I know Carlisle is October 3-6 2002.-
http://www.carsatcarlisle.com/                                       
                                                                     
                                                                     
> --- In metalshapers@y..., "David Selko" <david@s...> wrote:
> > Hershey.  Carlisle is ok but has mostly bolt on stuff, lots of
> muscle car
> > stuff.  Hershey focuses on mostly older vehicles so there are no
> replacement
> > panels available so there are more vendors that deal with
> metalshaping at
> > Hershey.  I have seen Fay Butler there, Clay Cook, James Chapman
> (Martin
> > body hammers), and have tried to find several others that were
> supposed to
> > be there but do some wandering.  I did however meet Victor Yordy
at
> Carlisle
> > in the spring.
> >
> > I am going to Hershey.
> >
> > David Selko
> >   -----Original Message-----
> >   From: snotzalot [mailto:proosta@p...]
> >   Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 7:25 AM
> >   To: metalshapers@y...
> >   Subject: [metalshapers] Carlisle or Hershey??
> >
> >
> >   >From the metalshapers point of view, which is the better show
to
> >   attend, Carlisle or Hershey??
> >
> >   Paul R
> >
> >
> >         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >               ADVERTISEMENT
> >
> >
> >
> >   If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish to maintain
> membership
> > privileges -- simply edit your membership for "NO EMAIL" at the
> following
> > link:
> >   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?referer=1
> >
> >   To leave the group and discontinue all membership privileges --
> send an
> > e-mail to: metalshapers-unsubscribe@g...
> >
> >   By posting photos and text here, you are giving permission for
> the photos
> > and the text to be used on the Metalshapers web site, but you are
> in no way
> > giving up any of your rights to your photos or wording. No
content
> of this
> > discussion group may be reproduced without written permission
from
> the
> > Metalshapers Association. Photo usage will require permission
from
> the owner
> > of the photo.
> >
> >
> >   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.



If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish to maintain membership privileges -- simply edit your membership for “NO EMAIL” at the following link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?referer=1

To leave the group and discontinue all membership privileges -- send an e-mail to: metalshapers-unsubscribe@...

By posting photos and text here, you are giving permission for the photos and the text to be used on the Metalshapers web site, but you are in no way giving up any of your rights to your photos or wording. No content of this discussion group may be reproduced without written permission from the Metalshapers Association. Photo usage will require permission from the owner of the photo.


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

I turn 57 next month.  I go to a number of meetings with people that provide
services for the company I work for.  One of my much younger co-workers made
a comment to me after the meeting about the 'old fart' from the other
company.  I reminded him that I'm at least 15 years older than the 'old
fart' he was referring to.  He said 'sorry, I never think of you as old'.  I
said 'quite all right, I guess I don't either.' :-)

rex

----Original Message Follows----
From: "tkbowman" <tkbowman@...>
Reply-To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [metalshapers] Re: Aging metalshapers
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 19:58:01 -0000

Randy:

I turned 57 today and I've found that life just continues to get
better.  I bought and rode my first motorcycle at 56, built an EW at
56, learned of Metalshapers at 55, acquired a '63 1/2 XL at 54, rode
my bicycle 200 miles from Seattle to Portland at 50, 51, and 52, and
more that I can't remember! <grin>  Still working on those
metalshaping skills, too.

Tim in Burien
"He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep in order to gain that
which he cannot lose"



--- In metalshapers@y..., Terry Cowan <terry@m...> wrote:
  > Jim,
  >
  > You really are old...
  >
  > But I have to admit -- you really don't look it.
  >
  > The three turning points in my life were -- the first time someone
called
  > me "sir".
  >
  >
  > when the eye doctor said "that's what happens when you turn forty".
  >
  > And when my doctor said "your are in pretty good shape for a man
YOUR AGE".
  >
  > I'm glad to hear that you are pumped up for FormFest -- you will
enjoy it
  > and learn a lot.
  >
  > Terry
  >
  >
  > At 03:24 PM 8/31/02 +0000, you wrote:
  > >Hi Randy,
  > >   I turned 59 Monday, so I guess I need to pile on Randy too
(grin).
  > >Actually people I went to school with have aged, but I have stayed
  > >the same. That always gets a big laugh from my wife. Anyways, this
  > >old dog is ready to learn a bunch of new metalshaping tricks. See
you
  > >all in Huntsville.
  > >Jim Russell
  > >
  > > >
  > > >   Hi Rex,
  > > >   Welcome to metalshapers! It's nice to see a "latter 50's guy"
  > >with such enthusiasm. I have spoken with many guys your age while
  > >doing metalshaping demo's for my 'ol buddy Gulley and most of them
  > >have the idea they're too old to learn. Nonsense, I say. Jump right
  > >in there and get the 'ol hands dirty!!!
  > > >   You have a top notch group working on your coupe. Can't wait
to
  > >see it finished.
  > > >   Randy
  > >
  > >
  > >Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
  > >ADVERTISEMENT
  >
  ><http://rd.yahoo.com/M=231282.2213026.3686935.1695105/D=egroupweb/S=1
705062985:HM/A=1190494/R=0/*http://clickserve.cc-dt.com/link/click?
lid=41000000000411524>4732c11.jpg
  > >
  > >
  > >If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish to maintain
membership
  > >privileges -- simply edit your membership for "NO EMAIL" at the
following link:
  > ><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?
referer=1>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/metalshapers/join?referer=1
  > >
  > >To leave the group and discontinue all membership privileges --
send an
  > >e-mail to: metalshapers-unsubscribe@g...
  > >
  > >By posting photos and text here, you are giving permission for the
photos
  > >and the text to be used on the Metalshapers web site, but you are
in no
  > >way giving up any of your rights to your photos or wording. No
content of
  > >this discussion group may be reproduced without written permission
from
  > >the Metalshapers Association. Photo usage will require permission
from the
  > >owner of the photo.
  > >
  > >
  > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
  > ><http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.
  >
  >
  > Terry Cowan





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Terry, I'm thinking your heavier hammer might be the key.  I'm striking
pretty hard with the hammer I'm using, but have the feeling it's too
lightweight to make any progress.  Can you send a picture of your hammer?
Actually, I'd be interested in seeing pictures of anyone else's roughing
hammers to get some ideas.

Did you do this against a sandbag?  If so, what's the media in your sandbag?

This is very helpful as are the other suggestions that came across.  This is
a great group!

I won't be able to proceed for a week because I'm out of town now, but happy
to carry on discussion while I'm on the road.

rex


----Original Message Follows----
From: Terry Cowan <terry@...>
Reply-To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Started bowl project/need input
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 10:47:01 -0500

Rex,

Attached is the beginning of a 10.5 inch 19 gauge AK bowl.

As John said -- Hitting a little harder may help you -- I probably hit
harder than you have. I also concentrated more in the center to form more
pronounced ruffles. I cheated a little by using a heavy steel roughing
hammer, which took about 1/4 the hits you made.

Anyway -- the ruffles are what you are after. You can hammer the ruffles
into themselves and shrink the metal from either side. I find that I have
better luck compressing ruffles on the inside of the bowl -- as opposed to
placing the bowl over a stake and working them from the outside -- but
either works.

So Rex, you might try working more in the center and hitting a little
harder --- to get some good ruffles going.

Take a few more whacks and show what you come up with.

This is a very good-start-to-finish project that we can all participate in.
I'll post it all on the we site.

If anyone else would like to make a bowl with us (beginner or pro) --
please jump in and give us some hints. I don't claim to be a pro at this --
I know just enough to be dangerous -- so I'm certainly open to suggestions
and corrections too.

Terry



At 07:40 AM 8/31/02 -0700, you wrote:
  >I thought I posted this yesterday and just realized that it didn't
register
  >on the list so I'll try again.  Attached are two pictures showing the
start
  >of my bowl hammering.  As you can see it's taking the form of a scoop
rather
  >than the form of a bowl.  This is the same problem I had the first time I
  >tried it.  I make my first strike in the center and spiral out as I've
heard
  >and read.  Any clues?  The metal is 10.5" diameter and the mallet is about
  >2".
  >
  >thanks in advance...rex
<< tc1.jpg >>




_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com

A friend of mine is putting together a system for me it is the same  person
who did my shoptask machine I am thinking about marketing kits  for the tree
machines. It will be another 2 or 3 weeks before i get all the stuff
$$$$$$$$ but it will be a full 3 axis knee mill remind me in a few weeks an
i will keep you posted Dan Pascoe
----- Original Message -----
From: GD <hpbygd@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce
yourselves!!!!!


> Hi Dan
>    I saw your post about new electronics for your CNC and wondered what
> you are using?  I need to replace the electronic on mine one of these
> days and would like to hear what other people are using.
>                                         Thanks
>                                          Gary
>
> carbuilder wrote:
> >
> > I guess after i get the new electronics on my cnc mill finished then
probley
> > that should be the next thing to handle for shop tool buys. I am going
to by
> > a bigger lathe and a pullmax but this will come as the next shop bought
tool
> > yes i am tired of burning up and the weld splater from the wire feed I
want
> > to get it where every thing is tig so much nicer looking also have you
ever
> > herd of a weld plain or something on that order I saw an add on one it
is
> > for taking off excess weld on plate stock welds no grinding buy the add,
I
> > will be checking into that also arent new tools for toys great in todays
> > tecnology thanks Dan Pascoe
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: hemirambler <jbarnes8@...>
> > To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 9:58 AM
> > Subject: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce
> > yourselves!!!!!
> >
> > Hi Dan, In short YES.  The larger TIG machines will have a water
> > valve (solenoid) that will only flow water (read "water" as coolant)
> > when you are welding. So I guess some people might think you need a
> > valve (solenoid) when in actuality you don't. To me it is one more
> > thing to break. Personal preference I guess.
> > All you really need is a water cooler, torch and lines. When bought
> > new water coolers can be a tad expensive, however you can also make a
> > cheap effective unit with a littel scrouging around. A lot of the
> > older (industrial) coolers used a carbonator pump (easy to find) to
> > circulate the coolant. I have even seen guys skip the radiator and
> > simply use water circulated into large container of water. Some of
> > the earlier industrial units skipped all that and simple hooked up
> > the torch to  your tap water and didn't even bother to recycle it
> > just let it drain out.
> > For me I just picked up a used water cooler that I found on Ebay.
> > These are normaly pretty reliable devices and if they do need work
> > they are easy to fix. Mine had a bad fan, there was  thermal fuse
> > that had blown - easy fix. I also ended up swapping in computer (ball
> > bearing fan) for the factory one since they are far more reliable and
> > use less current.
> > Once you have a cooler all you need is a line set and torch.
> >  I swaped the factory switch on mine for on that has a built in light
> > so I would know for sure it was "ON"
> > Depending on your particular welder it can also be a good idea to
> > wire the cooler such that when the welder is on so is the cooler. I
> > couldn't do this on mine because my current 220V (with a ground)
> > power didn't have a neutral and my cooler was 110V (needs a neutral).
> > SOme coolers are 220V so that may make a difference when you're
> > looking.
> >
> > I probably babbled much of what you already knew but in case anyone
> > else was curious I figured it couldn't hurt.
> >
> > Jacin in Ohio
> >
> > P.S. Hey Dan, ever welded so much that you were burning your hand to
> > complete the weld???? I used to do that quite often with my air
> > cooled torch. And too often that was on steel. Aluminum was nearly
> > impossible unless it was thin sheet. I used to wear my arc welding
> > gloves instead if the thin TIG gloves when TIG welding so it would
> > give me a few extra seconds <smile>. Now I go at it and never give it
> > a thought.......To me that was worth the couple hundred it cost me.
> > For your 175 with water you would only be held back by what ever duty
> > cycle your machine has. That's better than burned fingers <grin>
> >
> > -- In metalshapers@y..., "carbuilder" <carbuilder@n...> wrote:
> > > Jacin can you convert a air cooled unit to water  cooled buy just
> > buying a
> > > new torch unit i have a 175 also i like the idea of a cooler torch
> > to be
> > > able to weld 1/8 or 1/4  stuff or do i have to get another machine
> > thanks
> > > Dan Pascoe
> >
> > If you do not wish to receive e-mails but do wish to maintain membership
> > privileges -- simply edit your membership for "NO EMAIL" at the
following
> > link:
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I am going to the welding store next week to ck into the torch $$$$ thanks
Dan Pascoe
----- Original Message -----
From: <butchduke@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce
yourselves!!!!!


Dan !!
    You can also get a pump from the pet stores for fish tanks & drop in a 5
gal. bucket. they work well & I am using one for my spot welder.
                             Butch
----- Original Message -----
From: hemirambler <jbarnes8@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 9:58 AM
Subject: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce
yourselves!!!!!


Hi Dan, In short YES.  The larger TIG machines will have a water
valve (solenoid) that will only flow water (read "water" as coolant)
when you are welding. So I guess some people might think you need a
valve (solenoid) when in actuality you don't. To me it is one more
thing to break. Personal preference I guess.
All you really need is a water cooler, torch and lines. When bought
new water coolers can be a tad expensive, however you can also make a
cheap effective unit with a littel scrouging around. A lot of the
older (industrial) coolers used a carbonator pump (easy to find) to
circulate the coolant. I have even seen guys skip the radiator and
simply use water circulated into large container of water. Some of
the earlier industrial units skipped all that and simple hooked up
the torch to  your tap water and didn't even bother to recycle it
just let it drain out.
For me I just picked up a used water cooler that I found on Ebay.
These are normaly pretty reliable devices and if they do need work
they are easy to fix. Mine had a bad fan, there was  thermal fuse
that had blown - easy fix. I also ended up swapping in computer (ball
bearing fan) for the factory one since they are far more reliable and
use less current.
Once you have a cooler all you need is a line set and torch.
  I swaped the factory switch on mine for on that has a built in light
so I would know for sure it was "ON"
Depending on your particular welder it can also be a good idea to
wire the cooler such that when the welder is on so is the cooler. I
couldn't do this on mine because my current 220V (with a ground)
power didn't have a neutral and my cooler was 110V (needs a neutral).
SOme coolers are 220V so that may make a difference when you're
looking.

I probably babbled much of what you already knew but in case anyone
else was curious I figured it couldn't hurt.

Jacin in Ohio

P.S. Hey Dan, ever welded so much that you were burning your hand to
complete the weld???? I used to do that quite often with my air
cooled torch. And too often that was on steel. Aluminum was nearly
impossible unless it was thin sheet. I used to wear my arc welding
gloves instead if the thin TIG gloves when TIG welding so it would
give me a few extra seconds <smile>. Now I go at it and never give it
a thought.......To me that was worth the couple hundred it cost me.
For your 175 with water you would only be held back by what ever duty
cycle your machine has. That's better than burned fingers <grin>

-- In metalshapers@y..., "carbuilder" <carbuilder@n...> wrote:
> Jacin can you convert a air cooled unit to water  cooled buy just
buying a
> new torch unit i have a 175 also i like the idea of a cooler torch
to be
> able to weld 1/8 or 1/4  stuff or do i have to get another machine
thanks
> Dan Pascoe





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----- Original Message -----

From: butchduke@...

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 10:16 PM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce yourselves!!...

Robert!!

   There are two lines for the spot welder. one line for in & one for return. I got one of the bigger pumps that had enough pressure to push the water through the line. Take a clean 5 gal bucket with a lid & cut a hole in the top of the lid to allow for the lines & power cord to come through. Add water & you are off to the races ( GRIN )!!!!!!!!!!

                                         Butch

----- Original Message -----

From: steweld@...

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 7:21 PM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce yourselves!!...

Butch how did you use the fish tank pump on you spot welder? Do you have any PICS or a discription?  Thanks

Robert Stewart

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Rex ck out the hammers on my web page www.creativebillet.com. they work
great Dan Pascoe
----- Original Message -----
From: Rex Smith <rex@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 6:58 AM
Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Started bowl project/need input


Terry, I'm thinking your heavier hammer might be the key.  I'm striking
pretty hard with the hammer I'm using, but have the feeling it's too
lightweight to make any progress.  Can you send a picture of your hammer?
Actually, I'd be interested in seeing pictures of anyone else's roughing
hammers to get some ideas.

Did you do this against a sandbag?  If so, what's the media in your sandbag?

This is very helpful as are the other suggestions that came across.  This is
a great group!

I won't be able to proceed for a week because I'm out of town now, but happy
to carry on discussion while I'm on the road.

rex


----Original Message Follows----
From: Terry Cowan <terry@...>
Reply-To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Started bowl project/need input
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 10:47:01 -0500

Rex,

Attached is the beginning of a 10.5 inch 19 gauge AK bowl.

As John said -- Hitting a little harder may help you -- I probably hit
harder than you have. I also concentrated more in the center to form more
pronounced ruffles. I cheated a little by using a heavy steel roughing
hammer, which took about 1/4 the hits you made.

Anyway -- the ruffles are what you are after. You can hammer the ruffles
into themselves and shrink the metal from either side. I find that I have
better luck compressing ruffles on the inside of the bowl -- as opposed to
placing the bowl over a stake and working them from the outside -- but
either works.

So Rex, you might try working more in the center and hitting a little
harder --- to get some good ruffles going.

Take a few more whacks and show what you come up with.

This is a very good-start-to-finish project that we can all participate in.
I'll post it all on the we site.

If anyone else would like to make a bowl with us (beginner or pro) --
please jump in and give us some hints. I don't claim to be a pro at this --
I know just enough to be dangerous -- so I'm certainly open to suggestions
and corrections too.

Terry



At 07:40 AM 8/31/02 -0700, you wrote:
  >I thought I posted this yesterday and just realized that it didn't
register
  >on the list so I'll try again.  Attached are two pictures showing the
start
  >of my bowl hammering.  As you can see it's taking the form of a scoop
rather
  >than the form of a bowl.  This is the same problem I had the first time I
  >tried it.  I make my first strike in the center and spiral out as I've
heard
  >and read.  Any clues?  The metal is 10.5" diameter and the mallet is about
  >2".
  >
  >thanks in advance...rex
<< tc1.jpg >>




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----- Original Message -----

From: John M Buchtenkirch

To: A metal shapers group

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 6:54 AM

Subject: [metalshapers] Pullmax pneumatic tool lifts

Jon,  the pneumatic tool lift is just a air cylinder that raises and lowers the upper tooling instead of the hand leaver that most Pullmaxes have.  I think it's kind of neat because it allows you to keep both hands on the panel when the tooling drops down and starts reforming your panel.  If you have ever done Pullmax work you know that sometimes the forming operations cause the panel to vibrate severely and when that happens the more hands holding the panel the better off you are.  I forgot to mention that the pneumatic tool lift is operated by a foot pedal that can be moved to different positions on the floor which can be helpful with larger panels.  ~  John Buchtenkirch

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----- Original Message -----

From: Ben & Cathy

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 7:28 AM

Subject: [metalshapers] more tupperware pictures (Sabre)

Enjoy

 

 

Ben

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From: George Crittenden

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 7:28 AM

Subject: [metalshapers] Questions

Group

 

I only became a member a little while back and I am a neebie to metalshaping except for press brake work.Health problems has forced me to sell my half of my machine shop but I still run the business and have access to all the equipment. I had started an album of the shop on the website but all this health stuff has had me down.

I build 1/4 scale replicas of front engine dragsters and have had some one else do the body work but it has never satisfied me as I am a perfectionist and want to learn to do it myself.Bearing in mind that I am working on 1/4 scale items I am looking for suggestions on tools and materials to use for the bodywork.

I am going to order the plans for the E-Wheel that was made at wheelfest as soon as I can but was wondering if it is small enough for my type projects. Is there any others out there that is better suited to my work?

This health thing has put a very large dent in my finances but I will make a come back and am determined to learn the art of metalshaping that so many of you are so good at.

 

Thanks

 

George Crittenden

 

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----- Original Message -----

From: steweld@...

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 9:48 PM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] LOUVER DIE NEEDED FOR P-9 PULLMAX

Dan I will be getting a set of louver die for a P3 in about a week I will let you know maybe we could do some trade out.

Robert Stewart

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George,

I've had a look at your album before - nice models!  Sorry to hear
about your health - we most often take good health for granted.

Here's a link to plans for a small wheel which might be good
for your purposes:

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/12ewheel.html

I think Frank Sr. & Jr. (the authors) are now members of MSA.

Gary Paudler made a small practise wheel from a large C-clamp.
It too might work for you.  Look for message 9117 in the Yahoo
archives - may already be gone.

And, Doug Rasmussen mocked up a wheel on a horizontal mill - from
a couple of old bearings.  You can't get much more frugal than
that.  <smile>  It's discussed in message 8080; if it's still in
the archives.

With your background and ability, these ideas are sure to spark
some new twist.  Let us know what you end up with.


Graham

---------------------------------------------------------------------
George Crittenden wrote:
>
> Bearing in mind that I am working on 1/4 scale items I am looking
> for suggestions on tools and materials to use for the bodywork.
> I am going to order the plans for the E-Wheel that was made at
> wheelfest as soon as I can but was wondering if it is small enough
> for my type projects. Is there any others out there that is better
> suited to my work?

----- Original Message -----

From: carbuilder

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 11:15 AM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Questions

George go to my web page www.creativebillet.com  and ck out my little luigi ewheel it is about the size you need for you 1/4 scale bodys 24 in throat and i under stand the budget and health after four surgerys in a 14 month period my shoulder still hurts 24 hours a day but i refuse to let them cut again. I have to work or will be out on the street. Them i could not play with my tools bummerrrrr.  Dan Pascoe----- Original Message -----

From: George Crittenden

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 7:28 AM

Subject: [metalshapers] Questions

Group

 

I only became a member a little while back and I am a neebie to metalshaping except for press brake work.Health problems has forced me to sell my half of my machine shop but I still run the business and have access to all the equipment. I had started an album of the shop on the website but all this health stuff has had me down.

I build 1/4 scale replicas of front engine dragsters and have had some one else do the body work but it has never satisfied me as I am a perfectionist and want to learn to do it myself.Bearing in mind that I am working on 1/4 scale items I am looking for suggestions on tools and materials to use for the bodywork.

I am going to order the plans for the E-Wheel that was made at wheelfest as soon as I can but was wondering if it is small enough for my type projects. Is there any others out there that is better suited to my work?

This health thing has put a very large dent in my finances but I will make a come back and am determined to learn the art of metalshaping that so many of you are so good at.

 

Thanks

 

George Crittenden

 

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Hi George,
	 I just happened to be reading my email this morning and saw that Graham
posted a picture of the little C-clamp e-wheel that I built a couple of
years ago. I was also fortunate enough to be among the group that got
together to build Tom Lipton's design, and, just last night, I was
working on a side cover for my motorcycle and had a need to switch back
and forth between the two wheels.
	 Probably due to the very short throat, the C-wheel is noticeably stiffer
than the T-wheel. Of course the throat is also very limiting, maybe even
too small for 1/4 scale models.
	 Sorry, I never did a drawing for the little C-wheel, but if you like, I
could take it apart easily enough and post an "exploded view" that would
enable you to build one quite easily.

Gary

George,

It's good to hear from you. Sorry to hear you've been ill. I'm looking
forward to seeing more pics in your album.

Hang in there with the health thing. Several of our old geezers are having
a tough time with health problems now. I hope everyone heals up and gets
back to whacking metal soon.

As for your e-wheel -- Tom's design should work -- or you could even simply
scale everything down and use smaller wheels. In fact you would probably
want to rig up something especially for extra small and extra thin lower
wheels.

I hope you get to feeling better. Take two Aprins make four tucks and
hammer them down and call me in the morning. (smile)

Terry


At 10:28 AM 9/1/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Group
>
>I only became a member a little while back and I am a neebie to
>metalshaping except for press brake work.Health problems has forced me to
>sell my half of my machine shop but I still run the business and have
>access to all the equipment. I had started an album of the shop on the
>website but all this health stuff has had me down.

----- Original Message -----

From: carbuilder

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 7:54 AM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce yourselves!!...

Thats awful hi tec sounding Butch I dont know weather i could figure that one out. That is about the same idea iwas thinking for the water pump just need a torch i think now after the mill is done. Will you be coming to monroe in october I will be in my usual place Dan Pascoe

----- Original Message -----

From: butchduke@...

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 10:16 PM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce yourselves!!...

Robert!!

   There are two lines for the spot welder. one line for in & one for return. I got one of the bigger pumps that had enough pressure to push the water through the line. Take a clean 5 gal bucket with a lid & cut a hole in the top of the lid to allow for the lines & power cord to come through. Add water & you are off to the races ( GRIN )!!!!!!!!!!

                                         Butch

----- Original Message -----

From: steweld@...

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 7:21 PM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Re: Come on new guys -- jump in and introduce yourselves!!...

Butch how did you use the fish tank pump on you spot welder? Do you have any PICS or a discription?  Thanks

Robert Stewart

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Gary
That would be great when you get a chance

Thanks

George

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Paudler" <atmo@...>
To: <metalshapers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Questions


Hi George,
I just happened to be reading my email this morning and saw that Graham
posted a picture of the little C-clamp e-wheel that I built a couple of
years ago. I was also fortunate enough to be among the group that got
together to build Tom Lipton's design, and, just last night, I was
working on a side cover for my motorcycle and had a need to switch back
and forth between the two wheels.
Probably due to the very short throat, the C-wheel is noticeably stiffer
than the T-wheel. Of course the throat is also very limiting, maybe even
too small for 1/4 scale models.
Sorry, I never did a drawing for the little C-wheel, but if you like, I
could take it apart easily enough and post an "exploded view" that would
enable you to build one quite easily.

Gary



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----- Original Message -----

From: JAKE KAZZZ

To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 12:05 PM

Subject: Re: [metalshapers] Questions

George sounds to me like you would be the perfect candidate for one of my mini-power hammers!

                                                                             Kasz

>From: "George Crittenden"

>Reply-To: metalshapers@yahoogroups.com

>To:

>Subject: [metalshapers] Questions

>Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:28:44 -0400

>

>BlankGroup

>

>I only became a member a little while back and I am a neebie to metalshaping except for press brake work.Health problems has forced me to sell my half of my machine shop but I still run the business and have access to all the equipment. I had started an album of the shop on the website but all this health stuff has had me down.

>I build 1/4 scale replicas of front engine dragsters and have had some one else do the body work but it has never satisfied me as I am a perfectionist and want to learn to do it myself.Bearing in mind that I am working on 1/4 scale items I am looking for suggestions on tools and materials to use for the bodywork.

>I am going to order the plans for the E-Wheel that was made at wheelfest as soon as I can but was wondering if it is small enough for my type projects. Is there any others out there that is better suited to my work?

>This health thing has put a very large dent in my finances but I will make a come back and am determined to learn the art of metalshaping that so many of you are so good at.

>

>Thanks

>

>George Crittenden

>

>

---

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Dan,
  Could these pictures be some of the info you are looking for?

Lower louvre die for Pullmax made from sketch provided by Fay Butler.

The top plate has a small hole drilled in it's underside for a detent ball.
You have right center and left positions. Posting 3 separate pics, second
shows die apart. Third underside.
  Ron Naida

Shouldered bolt holds top plate on and allows pivoting.
Ron Naida

shank portion of assembly bolts on. For use on different size machines.

  Ron Naida

Hey Jake,

I'd forgotten your mini-hammer.  Sorry I left you out of the 'idea bag'
re-post.  That's a cute little hammer.  If my memory (now, <grin>)
serves, you also have a 36" CP - no?  If so, how would you characterise
them both.  For instance, I'm wondering if the action is similar enough
in miniature that the mini could be used to gain some experience before
building a larger hammer.  Thinking maybe Gary's C-Wheel and your
S-Hammer might be good, cheap, ways for beginners to get a taste of
mechanised metal shaping.   Just thinking out loud. (thanks for the
quote, Jacin <smile>)


Graham

-------------------------------------------------------------------
JAKE KAZZZ wrote:
>
>I to build models but I work in 1/25th scale, and I came up with a
> mini power hammer using some parts from an old sewing machine.
> See the attached photo's it works great for thin steel and AL
> and copper and even brass.

Same photos lightened...

cool idea!



>Hi George I to build models but I work in 1/25th scale, and I came up with
>a mini power hammer using some parts from an old sewing machine. See the
>attached photo's it works great for thin steel and AL and copper and even
>brass.
>
>                                                           Kasz