medievalsawdust : Messages : 15480-15509 of 15737

Hal,

It looks like you and Rhys came to similar conclusions. Thank you for the picture and the tip about the length of the wedge.

-James

On Jan 26, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Gary Link <halraeburn@...> wrote:

I made this one for Pennsic almost 20 years ago(all hand made) and I've sold about a doz.(using a router) of them over the years. The feet are M/T jointed the cross pieces through T with a 6-8" vertical wedge.The wedge is critical, the length of the bearing service between the top and bottom cross pieces keep the Rack from racking side to side. It sets up and brakes down in minutes.

In Service
Hal

To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
From: dailyje@...
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:06:15 -0600
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping. I came across this design on lumberjocks

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/13589

any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet? I assume mortise and tenon. Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support. Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet? I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James

#15481

From: Dan Baker <LordRhys@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:57 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

lord_rhys_sca

I cheated, I have seen Hal's

Capten Rhys

On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 12:36 PM, James Daily <dailyje@...> wrote:

�

Hal,

�It looks like you and Rhys came to similar conclusions. �Thank you for the picture and the tip about the length of the wedge.�

-James

On Jan 26, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Gary Link <halraeburn@...> wrote:

�

I made this one for Pennsic almost 20 years ago(all hand made) and�I've�sold about a doz.(using a router) of them over the years. The feet are M/T jointed the cross pieces through T with a 6-8"�vertical�wedge.The wedge is critical, the length of the�bearing service between the top and bottom cross pieces keep the Rack from racking side to side. It sets up and brakes down in minutes.

In Service
Hal��

To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
From: dailyje@...
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:06:15 -0600
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

�

Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping. �I came across this design on lumberjocks

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/13589

any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet? �I assume mortise and tenon. �Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support. �Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet? �I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James

#15482

From: Julian Wilson <lhjw66576@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:37 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

lhjw66576

Yes, I couldn'r agree more.The wedge-locked tenon in a through-mortice is the classic period joint for furniture of the medieval Era, furniture which needs to be able to be flat-packed and transported on packhorses, or in Wains.
Matthew Baker,
who has now made a lot of flat-packing medieval-replica camp furniture for the SCA Populace in Europe, after fitting-out his own Camp..

From: Dan Baker <LordRhys@...>
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 26 January 2013, 18:23
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

I would mortise and tennon the legs into the feel, move the lower cross support down, and change the dowels to 1x2s do a through tennon on the sides and pin them with wedges, This would allow for easy packing, pull 4 wedges and it comes apart for packing.

-Capten Rhys

On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 12:06 PM, James Daily <dailyje@...> wrote:

Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping. I came across this design on lumberjocks

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/13589

any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet? I assume mortise and tenon. Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support. Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet? I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James

#15483

From: Avery Austringer <avery1415@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:38 am
Subject: Re: Camp Clothes Rack

avery1415

> any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet? I assume mortise and tenon.

To me this looks like a good place for a lap joint (like the one on the lower left, here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Woodworking-joint-lap.gif). If you cut it tight enough and use tusk tenons and wedges for your lower stretchers, you wouldn't even have to glue the feet to the posts - just let the tenon on the stretcher and the wedges lock them together.

I don't think it really matters where you put the lower stretcher - any arrangement for 4 arms and 4 connection points can rack if you stress it enough. If your camping spots tend to be nice and level and you're not too much of a clothes horse the shoulders on a lower stretcher would probably be sufficient to keep it from doing so - if you're really going to load this thing down and you keep ending up on slopes you're going to need some kind of angled brace.

Avery

#15484

From: "Laurie" <needlewitch@...>
Date: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:55 am
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

beattra

While the clothes rack I have isn’t as fancy as some, it came with my tourney chest. The top cross beam is tusk tenon like the others and the bottom goes through the handles on the sides of my chest. It will hold shirts and pants just fine, but because of the chest there isn’t enough space for dresses. No pictures at the moment because it is deep in winter storage.

#15485

From: chris carpenter <donat0@...>
Date: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:06 pm
Subject: hey

donat0

hey check this out http://msn.nbcnews.com-im7.net/finance/

chris

Reply | Messages in this Topic (1)

#15486

From: "Bill" <mcnutt@...>
Date: Sun Feb 3, 2013 5:35 pm
Subject: Essential Tools

billmcnutt

I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group.  If you were to develop
an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it?  Now, I know:  you can't know
what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And that's the
point.  As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu.  As in, "Master
William, can u . . . . ?"

Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going
to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a
good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on
hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.

#15487

From: James Daily <dailyje@...>
Date: Sun Feb 3, 2013 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Essential Tools

thedonatistc...

One of the points Chris Schwarz makes in The Anarchist's Tool Chest is that the essential list of tools was, historically, actually pretty short and has not changed much since.

"Joseph Moxon ... describes 44 kinds of tools necessary for joinery in "Mechanick Exercises" (1678). For some of these tools, you'd need several in different sizes (such as chisels), but for many of the tools that he described, a joiner would need only one (a workbench, axe, fore plane etc.).

Randle Holme's "Academie of Armory" (Book III, 1688) has approximately 46 different joinery tools explained in his encyclopedia."

I guess a question is, do you want a "tool box" or a "tool chest"? Because you can fit everything you need in a tool chest (according to Schwarz, anyway), but a tool box or tote would be more limited. A couple of other questions: would you be starting with logs, rough sawn lumber, or milled lumber? Do you care about finishing work (e.g. moulding, carving) or just joinery? If you can eliminate any categories of work then you can really pare down the list.

-James

On Feb 3, 2013, at 11:35 AM, "Bill" <mcnutt@...> wrote:

I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group. If you were to develop an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it? Now, I know: you can't know what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And that's the point. As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu. As in, "Master William, can u . . . . ?"

Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.

#15488

From: Avery Austringer <avery1415@...>
Date: Mon Feb 4, 2013 6:00 am
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

avery1415

Here's what I take if I'm going to a war to play with wood and how I hope to medievalize my kit before I die. Some of these are goals in the same way that "I want a pony" is a goal. Some of these are, "maybe by this years gulf wars" goals. Feel free to laugh at me behind my back. :)

Saws: Some flavor of rip saw and cross cut saw, a small back saw (for tenons), a gent's saw (for dovetails) and a turn saw I made for myself based on the Gramercy tools turnsaw here: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/more/bowsawdesign.html - my goal is to replace the plate rip and crosscut saws with frame saws.

Striking tools - a turned oak mallet, a large claw hammer and a tiny claw hammer. I'd like to replace my thoroughly modern large claw hammer with a strapped hammer of a similar size, and the oak mallet has taken some hits, but still has a few years on it.

Planes - one coffin smoother, a wooden horn plane scrub, a steel Stanley #5 and #7, a small wooden rabbet, a couple hollows and rounds, and a #45 I use pretty much exclusively as a plow plane. I'd like to replace all the iron planes with wooden, fill in my hollow and round collection to be a quarter set, get a real plow plane and a wider rabbet plane. I'd love to make some of these myself.

Chisels - a set of Fulton socket chisels 1/4 - 1 by quarters. A couple sash mortises and some matching swans neck chisels. I'd like to pick up a cheap 1/4" pig sticker mortise and not take my sash mortises to war.

Boring tools - A steel brace and a set of irwin augers (in sore need of cleanup and sharpening), a set of cheap modern gimlets. I 'd like to have a brace that can handle pyramid bits AND modern round bits so I don't feel the need to haul a modern rechargeable drill with me to wars. I'd like to make a set of wooden braces with permanently fit spoon bits and put turned wooden handles on the gimlets.

Measuring tools - a 2ft rule a la the Mary Rose, a couple wooden squares and a wooded bevel gauge (any angle you want as long as it's 30, 45 or 60 degrees). I also keep a tape measure in there. I'd need to make a wooden straight edge. and get a lump of chalk and a turned spool to go with it just because. A cheap marking knife and a couple pencils. An awl.

Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.

Next step after the frame saws is to redo my bench I think.

Avery

#15489

From: Anthony Spangler <anthonyspangler@...>
Date: Mon Feb 4, 2013 1:55 pm
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

frode_kettil...

Greetings!
I would ask also, what will you be making/demonstrating at the event?� If it's chests or beds or furniture, the previous responders answered better than I can, as I don't really demo furniture type items.� For making spoons, all I need are a hand or carving axe, a stump to chop on, a couple of knives, and maybe a scraper.� And a stool to sit on.� For something bigger, like solid body musical instruments (rebec, solid body fiddle, etc.), I'd add my shave horse, draw knives, and a couple of spoke shaves, some gouges and a mallet.� Throw in a wood bodied smoothing plane or two and it's all good.� For bowls and platters, something to hold the work piece, which could be a modification to the horse (something I'd like to do, but haven't, yet).
I guess my absolute minimum list would be axe, draw knife, shave, and stump.
YIS,
Frode

#15490

From: "sean14powell" <sean14powell@...>
Date: Mon Feb 4, 2013 3:11 pm
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

sean14powell

The replies here are very interesting because it's the opposite of where I would
have taken the request. I do woodworking in my shop for enjoyment and to build
something nice to keep for a long time. When I'm asked to do 'woodworking' at an
event it's usually short-notice and to FIX something not create something. The
fix is often temporary until the event is over and the project packed away to be
repaired before next year (or forgotten about until the next event).

I want to have:
Power drill and selection of bits.
A small selection of modern dry-wall screws and nails in various lengths.
The socket set from my car.
A basic hand-saw.
Hack-saw.
A modern claw-hammer.
Small pry-bar.
Screwdriver with interchangeable bits.
Leatherman or Swiss-army knife.
Slip-jaw pliers for emergency plumbing repairs.
Duct-tape.
End-nippers (for rivets).
Mini anvil. (Optional as many sites you can find a large rock or section of
curb)
Bag of zip-ties.
15' extension cord.

I don't worry about any of this looking medieval. It's all about 'Get er done!"
before the curtain goes up. If I want to play medieval woodworker then I'm
bringing a whole different set of tools that I really haven't collected yet.
Maybe one-day I will reach that level but not quite yet.

Sean

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Bill"  wrote:
>
> I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group.  If you were to
develop an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it?  Now, I know:  you
can't know what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And
that's the point.  As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu.  As in,
"Master William, can u . . . . ?"
>
> Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going
to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a
good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on
hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.
>

#15491

From: Chuck Phillips <chuck@...>
Date: Mon Feb 4, 2013 9:55 pm
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

chuckp1066

I think you’re headed in the right direction with this list. However, given the context of the request (Can you help make/fix this…) I would lean towards tools that can be brought out in the middle of an even and not break the ambience. To that end, here’s my list:

-Drawknife

-A couple of chisels that can get chipped without you weeping

-Block plane

-Screwdrivers, Phillips & flathead

-Some sort of hand saw, panel or back

-Turning/coping saw

-Eggbeater drill & bits (OOP, I know, but less of a mood-breaker than a power drill)

-Brace & bits if you might need larger holes

-Sharpening stones

-Measuring rule

-Marking knife

-Pencil

-Hammer

-A handful of clamps (F-clamps & handscrews)

-Glue

-Assortment of nails & screws

One thing to keep in mind: Don’t bring tools that can’t suffer an occasional small but of rust or rough usage. We all aim to preserve our tools, but things happen at a tourney.

Charles Joiner

The Caidan Lurker

From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sean14powell
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 7:11 AM
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

The replies here are very interesting because it's the opposite of where I would have taken the request. I do woodworking in my shop for enjoyment and to build something nice to keep for a long time. When I'm asked to do 'woodworking' at an event it's usually short-notice and to FIX something not create something. The fix is often temporary until the event is over and the project packed away to be repaired before next year (or forgotten about until the next event).

I want to have:
Power drill and selection of bits.
A small selection of modern dry-wall screws and nails in various lengths.
The socket set from my car.
A basic hand-saw.
Hack-saw.
A modern claw-hammer.
Small pry-bar.
Screwdriver with interchangeable bits.
Leatherman or Swiss-army knife.
Slip-jaw pliers for emergency plumbing repairs.
Duct-tape.
End-nippers (for rivets).
Mini anvil. (Optional as many sites you can find a large rock or section of curb)
Bag of zip-ties.
15' extension cord.

I don't worry about any of this looking medieval. It's all about 'Get er done!" before the curtain goes up. If I want to play medieval woodworker then I'm bringing a whole different set of tools that I really haven't collected yet. Maybe one-day I will reach that level but not quite yet.

Sean

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" wrote:
>
> I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group. If you were to develop an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it? Now, I know: you can't know what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And that's the point. As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu. As in, "Master William, can u . . . . ?"
>
> Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.
>

#15492

From: "lorderec" <lorderec@...>
Date: Tue Feb 5, 2013 1:51 am
Subject: Re: Camp Clothes Rack

lorderec

Oh I have to show you what I made to solve this problem.  I fold my clothes like
medieval people. But my wife well u know.  So I build a cabon, a kufenschrank to
be exact, after some 14th century ones that st Thomas guild blogged about.  It
is completely enclosed, but folds up 6 inches flat for transport. Thin panels in
the sides and back to keeps the weight down, door with spot for mirror and all
-erec

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Laurie"  wrote:
>
> While the clothes rack I have isn't as fancy as some, it came with my
> tourney chest.  The top cross beam is tusk tenon like the others and the
> bottom goes through the handles on the sides of my chest.  It will hold
> shirts and pants just fine, but because of the chest there isn't enough
> space for dresses.  No pictures at the moment because it is deep in winter
> storage.
>

#15493

From: "lorderec" <lorderec@...>
Date: Tue Feb 5, 2013 2:05 am
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

lorderec

A GrEAT book!  His blog also has some interesting things, he recently finished a
Dutch tool chest for traveling and a portable bench top which you can see
here:http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/01/31/two-quick-notes-on-atlanta-and-tool\
s/

-Erec


--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, James Daily  wrote:
>
> One of the points Chris Schwarz makes in The Anarchist's Tool Chest is that
the essential list of tools was, historically, actually pretty short and has not
changed much since.
>
> "Joseph Moxon ... describes 44 kinds of tools necessary for joinery in
"Mechanick Exercises" (1678). For some of these tools, you'd need several in
different sizes (such as chisels), but for many of the tools that he described,
a joiner would need only one (a workbench, axe, fore plane etc.).
>
> Randle Holme's "Academie of Armory" (Book III, 1688) has approximately 46
different joinery tools explained in his encyclopedia."
>
> I guess a question is, do you want a "tool box" or a "tool chest"?  Because
you can fit everything you need in a tool chest (according to Schwarz, anyway),
but a tool box or tote would be more limited. A couple of other questions: would
you be starting with logs, rough sawn lumber, or milled lumber?  Do you care
about finishing work (e.g. moulding, carving) or just joinery?  If you can
eliminate any categories of work then you can really pare down the list.
>
> -James
>
>
> On Feb 3, 2013, at 11:35 AM, "Bill"  wrote:
>
> > I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group. If you were to
develop an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it? Now, I know: you can't
know what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And
that's the point. As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu. As in,
"Master William, can u . . . . ?"
> >
> > Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not
going to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out
what a good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I
need on hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.
> >
> >
>

#15494

From: "lorderec" <lorderec@...>
Date: Thu Feb 7, 2013 12:51 am
Subject: Re: Camp Clothes Rack

lorderec

Some pix of the cabon are here on my blog:
http://medievalgardening.blogspot.com

let me know what you think.
oh, and here is the St Thomas Guild, if you don't know them yet:
http://thomasguild.blogspot.com/

thanks,
-Erec

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "lorderec"  wrote:
>
> Oh I have to show you what I made to solve this problem.  I fold my clothes
like medieval people. But my wife well u know.  So I build a cabon, a
kufenschrank to be exact, after some 14th century ones that st Thomas guild
blogged about.  It is completely enclosed, but folds up 6 inches flat for
transport. Thin panels in the sides and back to keeps the weight down, door with
spot for mirror and all
> -erec
>
> --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Laurie"  wrote:
> >
> > While the clothes rack I have isn't as fancy as some, it came with my
> > tourney chest.  The top cross beam is tusk tenon like the others and the
> > bottom goes through the handles on the sides of my chest.  It will hold
> > shirts and pants just fine, but because of the chest there isn't enough
> > space for dresses.  No pictures at the moment because it is deep in winter
> > storage.
> >
>

#15495

From: conradh@...
Date: Thu Feb 7, 2013 7:06 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Camp Clothes Rack

conradh@...

> I don't think it really matters where you put the lower stretcher - any
> arrangement for 4 arms and 4 connection points can rack if you stress it
> enough.
>  If your camping spots tend to be nice and level and you're not too much
> of a
> clothes horse the shoulders on a lower stretcher would probably be
> sufficient to
> keep it from doing so - if you're really going to load this thing down and
> you
> keep ending up on slopes you're going to need some kind of angled brace.
>
> Avery

I've been going more and more to three-legged camp gear, just because even
level ground is often lumpy enough to produce this racking problem you
mention.  Besides racking strain on your joinery, four-legged items can be
just plain unstable, on ground where a three-legged item would be secure.
This can be an issue with something as tall as a clothes rack, especially
given how easy it is to snag the rack when removing something in a hurry.

I have no idea whether you could document a period example, but how about
using the tusk-tenon joinery to make a clothes rack with a triangular
footprint?  It could have lots more room on it, given that it would all
knock down and store flat, and be more stable; also the more open interior
would help in drying damp garb and gear.

It could be joined out of narrow boards, or turned--like an oversize
version of a three-legged stool, without a seat.

Ulfhedinn

#15496

From: "karincorbin" <karincorbin@...>
Date: Sat Feb 9, 2013 6:24 am
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

karincorbin

In my travel tool kit I wanted to have the ability to take a larger piece of
lumber and break it down as well as making precision cuts on smaller pieces of
lumber. So I chose a precision miter saw guide that fits into a very small box,
it guides a Japanese pull saw. There is a video for it on youtube if you want to
see it in action. But here is a link to a website about it. I got mine at
Hardwicks Hardware store in Seattle. It works great, pair it with a good saw and
you will be able to quickly make all kinds of things at events.
http://www.fine-tools.com/G-sawguide.html

The other thing I felt was needed for taking on large and small projects was a
lightweight folding sawhorse that was easy to store in a small area. I purchased
a Hide-a-horse and have been very pleased with it.
http://hideahorsefoldingsawhorses.com/

I can store it in a very small area when it is folded. I am making several
removable top plates that secure into threaded inserts in the top of the
sawhorse for it so I can mount various tools on it. It is very nice for taking
outside and sitting in a lawn chair while I do carving. You can see that
configuration in this photo from my blog.
http://karincorbin.blogspot.com/2012/06/power-strop-to-go.html

Note another essential tool kit item in that blog posting, a homemade honing
wheel for sharpening tools. I can even use it to resharpen scalpel blades to a
razor edge and as for sharpening carving tools, knives and chisels it works
great, no need to take any other sharpening equipment along unless you need to
regrind an axe. It is made from glued up layers of double thick mat board. It
works just fine in my cordless drill motor so I consider it another essential in
my road trip kit of tools.

Karin

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Bill"  wrote:
>
> I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group.  If you were to
develop an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it?  Now, I know:  you
can't know what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And
that's the point.  As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu.  As in,
"Master William, can u . . . . ?"
>
> Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going
to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a
good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on
hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.
>

#15497

From: barondevin@...
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:56 am
Subject: Toolmaking Video

baron_devin

http://www.rts.ch/archives/tv/culture/suisse-au-fil-du-temps/3464421-les-outils-\
de-bois.html

Devin

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. So which do you prefer, silver or
gold?

#15498

From: Jerry Harder <geraldgoodwine@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:26 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

geraldgoodwine

On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:

Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.

I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period. Both hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood. Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as does Cinni (1400?'s) Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved. (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair. Is medieval glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it? I have a 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes on it that have been well received. BTW: Hide glue is water and heat soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both. Both were used in wood working and easy to make. Neither will glue bone but a mixture made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't spell "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.

#15499

From: Thylacine <thylacine@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:30 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

aldenbutler

I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide glue , I have never heard of the cheese lime glue and I have never made any. would definitely be interested in the info.

Thanks

Alden

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder <geraldgoodwine@...> wrote:

�

On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:
�

Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.

I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period.� Both hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood.� Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as does Cinni (1400?'s)� Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved. (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair.� Is medieval glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it?� I have a 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes on it that have been well received.�� BTW: � Hide glue is water and heat soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both.� Both were used in wood working and easy to make.� Neither will glue bone but a mixture made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't spell "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.

#15500

From: lists lists <aust.email.lists@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:58 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

austlists

I am quite curious about cheese lime glue as well. Please do post a link if you can. Thank you.

On 11/02/2013 8:30 PM, "Thylacine" <thylacine@...> wrote:

�

I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide glue , I have never heard of the cheese lime glue and I have never made any. would definitely be interested in the info.
Thanks

Alden

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder <geraldgoodwine@...> wrote:

�

On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:
�

Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.

I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period.� Both hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood.� Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as does Cinni (1400?'s)� Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved. (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair.� Is medieval glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it?� I have a 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes on it that have been well received.�� BTW: � Hide glue is water and heat soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both.� Both were used in wood working and easy to make.� Neither will glue bone but a mixture made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't spell "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.

#15501

From: Jim Looper <jimlooper@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:09 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Toolmaking Video

jimlooper1970

Is this legit, or a hacked email?

Lucien

----- Original Message -----
http://www.rts.ch/archives/tv/culture/suisse-au-fil-du-temps/3464421-les-outils-\
de-bois.html

Devin

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. So which do you prefer, silver or
gold?

#15502

From: Sean Powell <sean14powell@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:25 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Toolmaking Video

sean14powell

Well I don't speak Swiss/German and "rue du lac" is in Montreux Switzerland near Geneva and the French border but starting about 5 minutes in you see some nice old fashion joinery using hand-planes. I didn't have time to watch the whole 45 minute thing but there are probably some good techniques demonstrated in there.

YES the link could have used a better description but I don't think it's Spam or a trap or even a link to a nasty pr0n site if that's what you were worried about.

Sean

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 9:09 AM, Jim Looper <jimlooper@...> wrote:

�

Is this legit, or a hacked email?

Lucien

----- Original Message -----
http://www.rts.ch/archives/tv/culture/suisse-au-fil-du-temps/3464421-les-outils-de-bois.html

Devin

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. So which do you prefer, silver or gold?

#15503

From: Lynda Fjellman <lyndafjellman@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:48 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

lyndafjellman

There is a nice Compleat Anachronist that covers all the types of medieval glues.

http://sca.org/ca/issues.html

Ilaria

From: Thylacine <thylacine@...>
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 1:30 AM
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide glue , I have never heard of the cheese lime glue and I have never made any. would definitely be interested in the info.

Thanks

Alden

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder <geraldgoodwine@...> wrote:

On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:

Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.

I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period. Both hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood. Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as does Cinni (1400?'s) Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved. (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair. Is medieval glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it? I have a 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes on it that have been well received. BTW: Hide glue is water and heat soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both. Both were used in wood working and easy to make. Neither will glue bone but a mixture made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't spell "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.

#15504

From: "karincorbin" <karincorbin@...>
Date: Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:58 pm
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

karincorbin

Cheese glue makes a good mouse trap bait.

Karin

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, lists lists  wrote:
>
> I am quite curious about cheese lime glue as well. Please do post a link if
> you can. Thank you.
> On 11/02/2013 8:30 PM, "Thylacine"  wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide
> > glue , I have never heard of the cheese lime glue and I have never made
> > any. would definitely be interested in the info.
> > Thanks
> > Alden
> >
> > On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder wrote:
> >
> >> **
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>  Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit
> >> authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and
> >> sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of
> >> "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a
> >> pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an
> >> iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.
> >>
> >>   I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period.  Both
> >> hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood.
> >> Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as
> >> does Cinni (1400?'s)  Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved.
> >> (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks
> >> and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they
> >> look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that
> >> has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up
> >> that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair.  Is medieval
> >> glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it?  I have a
> >> 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes
> >> on it that have been well received.     BTW:   Hide glue is water and heat
> >> soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both.  Both were used
> >> in wood working and easy to make.  Neither will glue bone but a mixture
> >> made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't spell
> >> "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well
> >> but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>

#15505

From: barondevin@...
Date: Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:57 am
Subject: Re: Toolmaking Video

baron_devin

> > Is this legit, or a hacked email?
>
> YES the link could have used a better description but I don't think

Sorry, it was late and I wasn't thinking about that possibility.

It's a French documentary about a Swiss shop that still makes wood-bodied planes
and bowsaws, more or less by hand.

I skipped around, but saw enough interesting tools and techniques to think
others might be interested.

Devin

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. So which do you prefer, silver or
gold?

#15506

From: Avery Austringer <avery1415@...>
Date: Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:39 am
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

avery1415

>> A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit  authentic)...
>
>I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period.

Well, yeah, but mine is a plastic squeezy bottle of yellow aliphatic glue. It's
more like what they would have used in period than JB Weld, but If I were trying
to really go full on authentic, it would be a dead giveaway.

Avery

#15507

From: "gavinkilkenny" <dukegavin@...>
Date: Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:09 pm
Subject: Re: Essential Tools

gavinkilkenny

I would read an article on historic glues ;)

Gavin


--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "karincorbin"  wrote:
>
> Cheese glue makes a good mouse trap bait.
>
> Karin
>
> --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, lists lists  wrote:
> >
> > I am quite curious about cheese lime glue as well. Please do post a link if
> > you can. Thank you.
> > On 11/02/2013 8:30 PM, "Thylacine"  wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide
> > > glue , I have never heard of the cheese lime glue and I have never made
> > > any. would definitely be interested in the info.
> > > Thanks
> > > Alden
> > >
> > > On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder wrote:
> > >
> > >> **
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>  Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit
> > >> authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and
> > >> sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of
> > >> "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file,
a
> > >> pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an
> > >> iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.
> > >>
> > >>   I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period.  Both
> > >> hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood.
> > >> Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as
> > >> does Cinni (1400?'s)  Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved.
> > >> (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks
> > >> and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they
> > >> look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that
> > >> has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up
> > >> that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair.  Is
medieval
> > >> glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it?  I have a
> > >> 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes
> > >> on it that have been well received.     BTW:   Hide glue is water and
heat
> > >> soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both.  Both were
used
> > >> in wood working and easy to make.  Neither will glue bone but a mixture
> > >> made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't
spell
> > >> "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well
> > >> but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
>

#15508

From: Copernicus Skygazer <muck@...>
Date: Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:12 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Essential Tools

skepticphil

My apprentice has made cheese glue. You only have a couple of hours to use
it once made at most, and the stuff is amazingly strong when made right.
YIS
Phillipos the Skeptic


On Mon, 11 Feb 2013, Thylacine wrote:

>
>
> I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide glue ,
I have never heard of the cheese
> lime glue and I have never made any. would definitely be interested in the
info.
> Thanks
> Alden
>
> On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder <geraldgoodwine@...>
wrote:
>       �
>
>       On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:
>             �
>
> Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit
authentic), a water stone, a
> little galvanized pan to soak it in and sharpening jig, a scratch stock I
made, a rasp, some scrapers,
> a pair of "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular
file, a pair of end
> nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an iron hold down
and a dowel plate I made.
>
> I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period.� Both hide and
cheese-lime glue are
> completely period and used for wood.� Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells
how to make cheese lime glue
> as does Cinni (1400?'s)� Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved.
(Leaf glue is not made from
> leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks and cut in slices like bread, and
dried ) I cut mine into cubes
> and they look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case
that has everything for both I
> take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up that perfect medieval project
with a modern emergency repair.�
> Is medieval glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it?� I
have a 20-30 pg article written
> on medieval glue and have taught several classes on it that have been well
received.���� BTW: � Hide glue is
> water and heat soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both.�
Both were used in wood working
> and easy to make.� Neither will glue bone but a mixture made as a hot glue
will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?))
> (I probably didn't spell "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue
bone very very well but can
> still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

#15509

From: Sir David Vavreck <baethan1630@...>
Date: Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:15 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] glue - was Re: Essential Tools

baethan1630

Me, too.

I am currently in need of information on period heat-resistant glue for a project I am working on.

> --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, lists lists wrote:
> >
> > I am quite curious about cheese lime glue as well. Please do post a link if
> > you can. Thank you.
> > On 11/02/2013 8:30 PM, "Thylacine" wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > I would be interested in a copy of your article. While I have used hide
> > > glue , I have never heard of the cheese lime glue and I have never made
> > > any. would definitely be interested in the info.
> > > Thanks
> > > Alden
> > >
> > > On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:26 AM, Jerry Harder wrote:
> > >
> > >> **
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On 2/4/2013 12:00 AM, Avery Austringer wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Other stuff - Nails. A bottle of yellow glue (yeah, not the least bit
> > >> authentic), a water stone, a little galvanized pan to soak it in and
> > >> sharpening jig, a scratch stock I made, a rasp, some scrapers, a pair of
> > >> "contour planes" from Lee Valley a saw file or two, a small regular file, a
> > >> pair of end nippers and a small pair of pliers, a couple bench hooks, an
> > >> iron hold down and a dowel plate I made.
> > >>
> > >> I don't know where people get the idea that glue is not period. Both
> > >> hide and cheese-lime glue are completely period and used for wood.
> > >> Theophlis-(1100's) On Diverse Arts tells how to make cheese lime glue as
> > >> does Cinni (1400?'s) Hide and leaf glue can be stored dry redissolved.
> > >> (Leaf glue is not made from leaves but hide glue set up like knox blocks
> > >> and cut in slices like bread, and dried ) I cut mine into cubes and they
> > >> look like little jeweled caltrops) I have a kit in an old breef-case that
> > >> has everything for both I take to wars since I wouldn't want to mess up
> > >> that perfect medieval project with a modern emergency repair. Is medieval
> > >> glue enough of an enigma that I should post an article on it? I have a
> > >> 20-30 pg article written on medieval glue and have taught several classes
> > >> on it that have been well received. BTW: Hide glue is water and heat
> > >> soluble, cheese-lime glue is (once dry) resistant to both. Both were used
> > >> in wood working and easy to make. Neither will glue bone but a mixture
> > >> made as a hot glue will ("Mapa cavilcula"(800's?)) (I probably didn't spell
> > >> "Mapa cavilcula" right) and fish hide glue will glue bone very very well
> > >> but can still re-dissolve like any other hide glue.