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#15458 From: Scot Eddy <mister_eddy2003@...>
Date: Mon Dec 31, 2012 4:46 am
Subject: 2 methods of build a coffer
mister_eddy2003
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I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better to build the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece and cut the lid off as I would a cubical box?

If I do them separately I can clamp and glue the curved wood more efficiently, but with the one piece construction the lid and box are the same size and fit better.

Thoughts?

Grace and Peace,

Jovian

#15459 From: Jim Hart <conalohairt@...>
Date: Mon Dec 31, 2012 5:57 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] 2 methods of build a coffer
baronconal
Send Email Send Email
 
That really depends on how accurately you feel you can match the parts if made separately.

You have answered your own question you just have to decide which YOU can do better.

Your own skills are the decision making aspect.

Consider masking tape ( the blue kind ) as a way to hold parts together or bungee cords ( put wax paper under them 
where they might contact glue. ) as a flexible 'clamp'

On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 11:46 PM, Scot Eddy <mister_eddy2003@...> wrote:
 

I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better to build the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece and cut the lid off as I would a cubical box?

If I do them separately I can clamp and glue the curved wood more efficiently, but with the one piece construction the lid and box are the same size and fit better.

Thoughts?

Grace and Peace,

Jovian




--
Jim Hart
  Conal OhAirt

Aude Aliquid Digmun - dare something worthy

#15460 From: John LaTorre <jlatorre@...>
Date: Mon Dec 31, 2012 7:07 pm
Subject: Re: 2 methods of build a coffer
tentmeister
Send Email Send Email
 
Jovian wrote:
>   I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better
> to build the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece
> and cut the lid off as I would a cubical box?

When I built a similar box, I made the box and lid separately, and it
came out well enough. In your case, it might be wise to to the same. But
to ensure a decent fit, you might build the box first, insert a
snug-fitting plywood form into the top of the box to fix the geometry,
and then saw off the top of the box. Then you can attach the boards for
the top of the chest and plane them into the curve you want. Finally,
remove the insert. If all goes well, the geometry of the top shouldn't
have changed.

Johann von Drachenfels
West Kingdom

#15461 From: Scot Eddy <mister_eddy2003@...>
Date: Mon Dec 31, 2012 7:23 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] 2 methods of build a coffer
mister_eddy2003
Send Email Send Email
 

Yeah, I kinda did answer my own question. I did an earlier curved lid coffer the first way (separate pieces) I guess I'll try it as one whole piece.

As a side note, parchment paper (in the cooking section by the waxed paper) works better for glue management. I've reused parchment paper 5-6 times now and it still peels right off.

Grace and Peace,

Jovian



From: Jim Hart <conalohairt@...>
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] 2 methods of build a coffer

 
That really depends on how accurately you feel you can match the parts if made separately.

You have answered your own question you just have to decide which YOU can do better.

Your own skills are the decision making aspect.

Consider masking tape ( the blue kind ) as a way to hold parts together or bungee cords ( put wax paper under them 
where they might contact glue. ) as a flexible 'clamp'

On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 11:46 PM, Scot Eddy <mister_eddy2003@...> wrote:
 
I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better to build the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece and cut the lid off as I would a cubical box?

If I do them separately I can clamp and glue the curved wood more efficiently, but with the one piece construction the lid and box are the same size and fit better.

Thoughts?

Grace and Peace,

Jovian



--
Jim Hart
  Conal OhAirt

Aude Aliquid Digmun - dare something worthy



#15462 From: "i_griffen" <i_griffen@...>
Date: Tue Jan 1, 2013 5:30 am
Subject: Re: Two hand saws
i_griffen
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Garvin

Having experience sharpening and setting these Saws. It sounds to me there is no
set in the teeth and the raker teeth are too long and needs to br taken down.

Method to sharpen Saw, Measure height of Rakers (the rakers cleans the kerf as
you are cutting)to tooth height. Sharpen teeth, both sides. Recheck the profile
of the raker to tooth, the raker should be slightly shorter than the tooth. Once
this is done then set the teeth to make the kerf.

When I used to sharpen Bucking and falling saws, I clamped therm to a 2x6 then
to a bench to keepthe teeth upright.then I would use a triangler file or a flat
file.

Iain Griffen

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavinkilkenny" <dukegavin@...> wrote:
>
> I bought a 42 inch saw off eBay and have been giving it some test runs.  Seems
to be a problem with it binding as soon as it gets past the depth of the teeth.
>
> Wondering if there is any advice from the crew about proper care and feeding
of such tools, and any tricks to their effective use.
>
> One thought I'm having is that it may need a bit of offset on the teeth- at
present it looks to be dead straight, with no offset.
>
> Gavin
>

#15463 From: Avery Austringer <avery1415@...>
Date: Wed Jan 2, 2013 7:02 am
Subject: Re: 2 methods of build a coffer
avery1415
Send Email Send Email
 
> I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better to
> build the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece and cut
> the lid off as I would a cubical box?
>
> If I do them separately I can clamp and glue the curved wood more
> efficiently, but with the one piece construction the lid and box are the
> same size and fit better.

Here's how I'd approach the problem:

Step 1 - Make the lid and body separately.  Use pegs and glue for assembly, not metal fasteners.  
Step 2 - Mount the hinges, line up the back as close to perfect as possible.
Step 3 - Use a smoothing plane to take any slop out of the front and sides so that everything lines up perfectly.  Feel smug.

I started doing this with the tongue and groove joinery on the fronts and backs of hutch style chests since there was always just enough slop in the joint to annoy me no matter which technique or how careful I was and then ran with it.  Now days people are impressed by the perfectly flush cut corners of things like Mastermyr boxes and somehow, despite all reason, assume that I'm cutting those boards to withing a 64th of an inch over a length of feet. (In fact, I cut 'em with an extra 1/16th or even 1/8th inch and plane them flush.)

If you decide to go this route, really think about the grain direction of things and where your excess is going to be to avoid tear out. Also, a smoothing plane with a decent camber (maybe a 1/64th or even 1/32nd of an inch) will make this process a little easier.

Avery

#15464 From: "karincorbin" <karincorbin@...>
Date: Tue Jan 8, 2013 12:13 am
Subject: Re: 2 methods of build a coffer
karincorbin
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You can also do a modified approach. Build the basic framing as one unit. Then
make the cuts to separate it but don't completely cut through all the sides.
Leave a several inches long tab of wood in the center of the sides to hold the
domed top in place.

Put your curved pieces on the top. Then finish the separation of the top and
bottom by sawing through the tabs.

Karin

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Scot Eddy  wrote:
>
> I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better to build
the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece and cut the lid off
as I would a cubical box?
>
> If I do them separately I can clamp and glue the curved wood more efficiently,
but with the one piece construction the lid and box are the same size and fit
better.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Grace and Peace,
>
> Jovian
>

#15465 From: Don Bowen <don.bowen@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2013 3:42 pm
Subject: Triangle stool
donb_cts_com
Send Email Send Email
 
I just joined the list as I am looking for plans for a triangle stool or
chair.  I see a picture in the images section of the one I am looking
for.  I know it is in one of these piles of books I have here but cannot
find it.

I was reminded of the chair during a recent viewing of the Hobbit". In
one scene in the Hobbit Hole just before the group leaves someone holds
up the chair.  It is on the left with most of it obscured by Gandolf's
head.  My grandson is deep into the series and one of those chairs in
his room beside his TARDIS bookshelf would put him beside himself.

So, anyone know where the plans for such a chair or stool can be found?

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

#15466 From: James Daily <dailyje@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2013 3:50 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
thedonatistc...
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I have not seen the movie, so I'm not sure if it's the same design, but Peter Follansbee was on The Woodwright's Shop recently to talk about a 17th century triangle stool design:


This page from the St. Thomas Guild has some pictures and discussion of a similar design:


Is that what you had in mind?


On Jan 9, 2013, at 9:42 AM, Don Bowen <don.bowen@...> wrote:

 

I just joined the list as I am looking for plans for a triangle stool or
chair. I see a picture in the images section of the one I am looking
for. I know it is in one of these piles of books I have here but cannot
find it.

I was reminded of the chair during a recent viewing of the Hobbit". In
one scene in the Hobbit Hole just before the group leaves someone holds
up the chair. It is on the left with most of it obscured by Gandolf's
head. My grandson is deep into the series and one of those chairs in
his room beside his TARDIS bookshelf would put him beside himself.

So, anyone know where the plans for such a chair or stool can be found?

--
Don Bowen AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html



#15467 From: Don Bowen <don.bowen@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2013 4:06 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
donb_cts_com
Send Email Send Email
 
On 1/9/2013 9:50 AM, James Daily wrote:
>
> http://video.pbs.org/video/2270257698
>
> This page from the St. Thomas Guild has some pictures and discussion
> of a similar design:
>
> http://thomasguild.blogspot.com/2011/07/turned-triangle-stool.html
>
> Is that what you had in mind?

That's it.  It may have been a web site rather than a book.  I recently
(2 1/2 years ago) moved to the Ozarks and have spent the time turning a
pole barn into my dream shop.  Somewhere along the line I have lost some
books and web links.

Thanks for the links.

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

#15468 From: bsrlee <bsrlee2@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2013 4:13 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
bsrlee
Send Email Send Email
 
There is a fairly comprehensive DIY article on the Recreational
Medievalism site

http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Medieval.html
David Freeman = Cariadoc of the Bow

The site seems to have been reorganised, so you will have to get the
.pdf of the Miscellany & search that.

regards
Brusi of Orkney


On 10-Jan-13 2:42 AM, Don Bowen wrote:
> I just joined the list as I am looking for plans for a triangle stool or
> chair.  I see a picture in the images section of the one I am looking
> for.  I know it is in one of these piles of books I have here but cannot
> find it.
>
> I was reminded of the chair during a recent viewing of the Hobbit". In
> one scene in the Hobbit Hole just before the group leaves someone holds
> up the chair.  It is on the left with most of it obscured by Gandolf's
> head.  My grandson is deep into the series and one of those chairs in
> his room beside his TARDIS bookshelf would put him beside himself.
>
> So, anyone know where the plans for such a chair or stool can be found?
>

#15469 From: Don Bowen <don.bowen@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2013 4:42 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
donb_cts_com
Send Email Send Email
 
On 1/9/2013 10:13 AM, bsrlee wrote:
> http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Medieval.html
> David Freeman = Cariadoc of the Bow

Another good source, thank you.

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

#15470 From: Lynda Fjellman <lyndafjellman@...>
Date: Thu Jan 10, 2013 12:06 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
lyndafjellman
Send Email Send Email
 
Here are plans for this stool/chair in a book called Master Pieces, making furniture from paintings by Richard Ball and Peter Campbell. pub 1983
The premise of the book is strange, and so are some of the pieces in the book but it is one of my go to books when I need a bit of stretching.
I am going to make one(or several) of those triangle stools one of these days.  There doesn't seem to be anything inherently difficult about them.
Ilaria

--- On Wed, 1/9/13, Don Bowen <don.bowen@...> wrote:

From: Don Bowen <don.bowen@...>
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, January 9, 2013, 7:42 AM

 

I just joined the list as I am looking for plans for a triangle stool or
chair. I see a picture in the images section of the one I am looking
for. I know it is in one of these piles of books I have here but cannot
find it.

I was reminded of the chair during a recent viewing of the Hobbit". In
one scene in the Hobbit Hole just before the group leaves someone holds
up the chair. It is on the left with most of it obscured by Gandolf's
head. My grandson is deep into the series and one of those chairs in
his room beside his TARDIS bookshelf would put him beside himself.

So, anyone know where the plans for such a chair or stool can be found?

--
Don Bowen AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html


#15471 From: conradh@...
Date: Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:16 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
conradh@...
Send Email Send Email
 
You won't be sorry--measuring and working with 120 degree angles instead
of 90 takes some getting used to, and springing the last tenons in can
take another pair of hands sometimes, but it's worth it for the way they
sit on uneven ground that would badly rack a four-legged chair.

I made a hackingstock (hewing bench) with three legs last year, and I have
yet to find a camp or booth site where it isn't wonderfully solid.  I feel
secure using it for a stepstool, which I certainly wouldn't with anything
four-legged.

Ulfhedinn

#15472 From: Don Bowen <don.bowen@...>
Date: Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Triangle stool
donb_cts_com
Send Email Send Email
 
On 1/14/2013 12:16 PM, conradh@... wrote:
> You won't be sorry--measuring and working with 120 degree angles instead
> of 90 takes some getting used to, and springing the last tenons in can
> take another pair of hands sometimes, but it's worth it for the way they
> sit on uneven ground that would badly rack a four-legged chair.

That is one of the reasons for taking on this project, something new to
learn.  I am thinking of using small Oaks from my 40 acres of woods.
One more project in the queue.

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

#15473 From: "Peter Ellison" <pellison@...>
Date: Thu Jan 17, 2013 5:44 pm
Subject: Wooden Screw Thread update (link to pictures)
matrixrunner...
Send Email Send Email
 
I have finally figured out how make pictures and some text visible.

I dropped them on a blog:
http://scawoodprojects.woodpress.com/

A couple of posts that show the tooling and post that shows the final output mounted in a "Moxon Vice".

Overall the project was a success, if you want to see them in person I'll have them an an SCA event in Minnesota in Feb. 9th I'm teaching a class (teaching is a strong word, sharing what I learned would be a better term).  Also I'll be teaching a workbench class and a structural analysis class on cathedrals.

So at this point since I have made all of the screws that I will need for a while, still need to make a nut for a leg vice in a new workbench that is in process.

Moral of the story, if you want a vice screw, pay a nice person to make you one.  If you like adventure and think wood screws are really cool this is a doable project it just takes time.

Peter

#15474 From: "Chris" <igelkottinus@...>
Date: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:27 pm
Subject: Re: Wooden Screw Thread update (link to pictures)
igelkottinus
Send Email Send Email
 
Your link has a pretty funny typo!

Here's the one that works:

http://scawoodprojects.wordpress.com/

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Ellison"  wrote:
>
>
>
> I have finally figured out how make pictures and some text visible.
>
> I dropped them on a blog:
> http://scawoodprojects.woodpress.com/
>
> A couple of posts that
> show the tooling and post that shows the final output mounted in a
> "Moxon Vice".
>
> Overall the project was a success, if
> you want to see them in person I'll have them an an SCA event in Minnesota
> in Feb. 9th I'm teaching a class (teaching is a strong word, sharing what
> I learned would be a better term).  Also I'll be teaching a workbench
> class and a structural analysis class on cathedrals.
>
> So at this
> point since I have made all of the screws that I will need for a while,
> still need to make a nut for a leg vice in a new workbench that is in
> process.
>
> Moral of the story, if you want a vice screw, pay a
> nice person to make you one.  If you like adventure and think wood
> screws are really cool this is a doable project it just takes time.
>
> Peter
>

#15475 From: "karincorbin" <karincorbin@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:28 pm
Subject: Re: Triangle stool
karincorbin
Send Email Send Email
 
Here is a photo tutorial for you complete with the jigs for drilling the holes
for the stretchers. It is an excellent blog to subscribe to if you have not
visited it before.

http://thomasguild.blogspot.com/2011/07/turned-triangle-stool.html

Karin
--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Don Bowen  wrote:
>
> On 1/14/2013 12:16 PM, conradh@... wrote:
> > You won't be sorry--measuring and working with 120 degree angles instead
> > of 90 takes some getting used to, and springing the last tenons in can
> > take another pair of hands sometimes, but it's worth it for the way they
> > sit on uneven ground that would badly rack a four-legged chair.
>
> That is one of the reasons for taking on this project, something new to
> learn.  I am thinking of using small Oaks from my 40 acres of woods.
> One more project in the queue.
>
> --
> Don Bowen           AD0BR
> "A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve.
In solitude alone can he know true freedom."
> -Michel De Montaigne 1588
> http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html
>

#15476 From: Dan Baker <LordRhys@...>
Date: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:51 pm
Subject: Arts and Sciences group on facebook
lord_rhys_sca
Send Email Send Email
 
This list has been fairly quiet, I started a cross kingdoms A&S
discussion group on facebook.  any A&S not just woodworking, you are
all welcome to come over and chat

MedievalArtsandSciences@...
http://www.facebook.com/groups/MedievalArtsandSciences/

-Capten Rhys

#15477 From: James Daily <dailyje@...>
Date: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:06 pm
Subject: Camp Clothes Rack
thedonatistc...
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping.  I came across this design on lumberjocks


any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet?  I assume mortise and tenon.  Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support.  Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet?  I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James

#15478 From: Dan Baker <LordRhys@...>
Date: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:23 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack
lord_rhys_sca
Send Email Send Email
 
I would mortise and tennon the legs into the feel, move the lower cross support down, and change the dowels to 1x2s do a through tennon on the sides and pin them with wedges,  This would allow for easy packing, pull 4 wedges and it comes apart for packing. 

-Capten Rhys

On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 12:06 PM, James Daily <dailyje@...> wrote:
 

Hi,


I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping.  I came across this design on lumberjocks


any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet?  I assume mortise and tenon.  Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support.  Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet?  I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James



#15479 From: Gary Link <halraeburn@...>
Date: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:27 pm
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack
haldoor
Send Email Send Email
 
I made this one for Pennsic almost 20 years ago(all hand made) and I've sold about a doz.(using a router) of them over the years. The feet are M/T jointed the cross pieces through T with a 6-8" vertical wedge.The wedge is critical, the length of the bearing service between the top and bottom cross pieces keep the Rack from racking side to side. It sets up and brakes down in minutes.

In Service
Hal  


To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
From: dailyje@...
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:06:15 -0600
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

 
Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping.  I came across this design on lumberjocks


any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet?  I assume mortise and tenon.  Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support.  Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet?  I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James


1 of 1 Photo(s)


#15480 From: James Daily <dailyje@...>
Date: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:36 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack [1 Attachment]
thedonatistc...
Send Email Send Email
 
Hal,

 It looks like you and Rhys came to similar conclusions.  Thank you for the picture and the tip about the length of the wedge. 

-James


On Jan 26, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Gary Link <halraeburn@...> wrote:

 

I made this one for Pennsic almost 20 years ago(all hand made) and I've sold about a doz.(using a router) of them over the years. The feet are M/T jointed the cross pieces through T with a 6-8" vertical wedge.The wedge is critical, the length of the bearing service between the top and bottom cross pieces keep the Rack from racking side to side. It sets up and brakes down in minutes.

In Service
Hal  


To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
From: dailyje@...
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:06:15 -0600
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

 
Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping.  I came across this design on lumberjocks


any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet?  I assume mortise and tenon.  Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support.  Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet?  I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James




#15481 From: Dan Baker <LordRhys@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:57 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack
lord_rhys_sca
Send Email Send Email
 
I cheated, I have seen Hal's

Capten Rhys

On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 12:36 PM, James Daily <dailyje@...> wrote:
 

Hal,

 It looks like you and Rhys came to similar conclusions.  Thank you for the picture and the tip about the length of the wedge. 

-James


On Jan 26, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Gary Link <halraeburn@...> wrote:

 

I made this one for Pennsic almost 20 years ago(all hand made) and I've sold about a doz.(using a router) of them over the years. The feet are M/T jointed the cross pieces through T with a 6-8" vertical wedge.The wedge is critical, the length of the bearing service between the top and bottom cross pieces keep the Rack from racking side to side. It sets up and brakes down in minutes.

In Service
Hal  


To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
From: dailyje@...
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:06:15 -0600
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack


 
Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping.  I came across this design on lumberjocks


any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet?  I assume mortise and tenon.  Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support.  Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet?  I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James





#15482 From: Julian Wilson <lhjw66576@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:37 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack
lhjw66576
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Yes, I couldn'r agree more.The wedge-locked tenon in a through-mortice is the classic period joint for furniture of the medieval Era, furniture which needs to be able to be flat-packed and transported on packhorses, or in Wains.
Matthew Baker,
who has now made a lot of flat-packing medieval-replica camp furniture for the SCA Populace in Europe, after fitting-out his own Camp..



From: Dan Baker <LordRhys@...>
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 26 January 2013, 18:23
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack

 
I would mortise and tennon the legs into the feel, move the lower cross support down, and change the dowels to 1x2s do a through tennon on the sides and pin them with wedges,  This would allow for easy packing, pull 4 wedges and it comes apart for packing. 

-Capten Rhys

On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 12:06 PM, James Daily <dailyje@...> wrote:
 
Hi,

I've been thinking about making a portable clothes rack for storing clothes while camping.  I came across this design on lumberjocks


any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet?  I assume mortise and tenon.  Also, I don't anticipate the lower dowel being used for anything except structural support.  Could it be moved lower, almost to the feet?  I worry if I did that it might have a tendency to rack.

Thanks,
James




#15483 From: Avery Austringer <avery1415@...>
Date: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:38 am
Subject: Re: Camp Clothes Rack
avery1415
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> any thoughts, particularly on how the uprights are joined to the feet? I assume mortise and tenon.

To me this looks like a good place for a lap joint (like the one on the lower left, here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Woodworking-joint-lap.gif).  If you cut it tight enough and use tusk tenons and wedges for your lower stretchers, you wouldn't even have to glue the feet to the posts - just let the tenon on the stretcher and the wedges lock them together.

I don't think it really matters where you put the lower stretcher - any arrangement for 4 arms and 4 connection points can rack if you stress it enough.  If your camping spots tend to be nice and level and you're not too much of a clothes horse the shoulders on a lower stretcher would probably be sufficient to keep it from doing so - if you're really going to load this thing down and you keep ending up on slopes you're going to need some kind of angled brace.

Avery

#15484 From: "Laurie" <needlewitch@...>
Date: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:55 am
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Camp Clothes Rack
beattra
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While the clothes rack I have isn’t as fancy as some, it came with my tourney chest.  The top cross beam is tusk tenon like the others and the bottom goes through the handles on the sides of my chest.  It will hold shirts and pants just fine, but because of the chest there isn’t enough space for dresses.  No pictures at the moment because it is deep in winter storage.


#15485 From: chris carpenter <donat0@...>
Date: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:06 pm
Subject: hey
donat0
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hey check this out http://msn.nbcnews.com-im7.net/finance/



chris

#15486 From: "Bill" <mcnutt@...>
Date: Sun Feb 3, 2013 5:35 pm
Subject: Essential Tools
billmcnutt
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I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group.  If you were to develop
an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it?  Now, I know:  you can't know
what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And that's the
point.  As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu.  As in, "Master
William, can u . . . . ?"

Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going
to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a
good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on
hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.

#15487 From: James Daily <dailyje@...>
Date: Sun Feb 3, 2013 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Essential Tools
thedonatistc...
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One of the points Chris Schwarz makes in The Anarchist's Tool Chest is that the essential list of tools was, historically, actually pretty short and has not changed much since.

"Joseph Moxon ... describes 44 kinds of tools necessary for joinery in "Mechanick Exercises" (1678). For some of these tools, you'd need several in different sizes (such as chisels), but for many of the tools that he described, a joiner would need only one (a workbench, axe, fore plane etc.).

Randle Holme's "Academie of Armory" (Book III, 1688) has approximately 46 different joinery tools explained in his encyclopedia."

I guess a question is, do you want a "tool box" or a "tool chest"?  Because you can fit everything you need in a tool chest (according to Schwarz, anyway), but a tool box or tote would be more limited. A couple of other questions: would you be starting with logs, rough sawn lumber, or milled lumber?  Do you care about finishing work (e.g. moulding, carving) or just joinery?  If you can eliminate any categories of work then you can really pare down the list.

-James


On Feb 3, 2013, at 11:35 AM, "Bill" <mcnutt@...> wrote:

 

I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group. If you were to develop an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it? Now, I know: you can't know what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And that's the point. As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu. As in, "Master William, can u . . . . ?"

Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.



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