Jovian wrote:
>   I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better
> to build the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece
> and cut the lid off as I would a cubical box?

When I built a similar box, I made the box and lid separately, and it
came out well enough. In your case, it might be wise to to the same. But
to ensure a decent fit, you might build the box first, insert a
snug-fitting plywood form into the top of the box to fix the geometry,
and then saw off the top of the box. Then you can attach the boards for
the top of the chest and plane them into the curve you want. Finally,
remove the insert. If all goes well, the geometry of the top shouldn't
have changed.

Johann von Drachenfels
West Kingdom

Garvin

Having experience sharpening and setting these Saws. It sounds to me there is no
set in the teeth and the raker teeth are too long and needs to br taken down.

Method to sharpen Saw, Measure height of Rakers (the rakers cleans the kerf as
you are cutting)to tooth height. Sharpen teeth, both sides. Recheck the profile
of the raker to tooth, the raker should be slightly shorter than the tooth. Once
this is done then set the teeth to make the kerf.

When I used to sharpen Bucking and falling saws, I clamped therm to a 2x6 then
to a bench to keepthe teeth upright.then I would use a triangler file or a flat
file.

Iain Griffen

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavinkilkenny" <dukegavin@...> wrote:
>
> I bought a 42 inch saw off eBay and have been giving it some test runs.  Seems
to be a problem with it binding as soon as it gets past the depth of the teeth.
>
> Wondering if there is any advice from the crew about proper care and feeding
of such tools, and any tricks to their effective use.
>
> One thought I'm having is that it may need a bit of offset on the teeth- at
present it looks to be dead straight, with no offset.
>
> Gavin
>

You can also do a modified approach. Build the basic framing as one unit. Then
make the cuts to separate it but don't completely cut through all the sides.
Leave a several inches long tab of wood in the center of the sides to hold the
domed top in place.

Put your curved pieces on the top. Then finish the separation of the top and
bottom by sawing through the tabs.

Karin

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Scot Eddy  wrote:
>
> I want to make a curved lid coffer for a friend. Would it be better to build
the box and lid separately or should I build it in one piece and cut the lid off
as I would a cubical box?
>
> If I do them separately I can clamp and glue the curved wood more efficiently,
but with the one piece construction the lid and box are the same size and fit
better.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Grace and Peace,
>
> Jovian
>

I just joined the list as I am looking for plans for a triangle stool or
chair.  I see a picture in the images section of the one I am looking
for.  I know it is in one of these piles of books I have here but cannot
find it.

I was reminded of the chair during a recent viewing of the Hobbit". In
one scene in the Hobbit Hole just before the group leaves someone holds
up the chair.  It is on the left with most of it obscured by Gandolf's
head.  My grandson is deep into the series and one of those chairs in
his room beside his TARDIS bookshelf would put him beside himself.

So, anyone know where the plans for such a chair or stool can be found?

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

On 1/9/2013 9:50 AM, James Daily wrote:
>
> http://video.pbs.org/video/2270257698
>
> This page from the St. Thomas Guild has some pictures and discussion
> of a similar design:
>
> http://thomasguild.blogspot.com/2011/07/turned-triangle-stool.html
>
> Is that what you had in mind?

That's it.  It may have been a web site rather than a book.  I recently
(2 1/2 years ago) moved to the Ozarks and have spent the time turning a
pole barn into my dream shop.  Somewhere along the line I have lost some
books and web links.

Thanks for the links.

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

There is a fairly comprehensive DIY article on the Recreational
Medievalism site

http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Medieval.html
David Freeman = Cariadoc of the Bow

The site seems to have been reorganised, so you will have to get the
.pdf of the Miscellany & search that.

regards
Brusi of Orkney


On 10-Jan-13 2:42 AM, Don Bowen wrote:
> I just joined the list as I am looking for plans for a triangle stool or
> chair.  I see a picture in the images section of the one I am looking
> for.  I know it is in one of these piles of books I have here but cannot
> find it.
>
> I was reminded of the chair during a recent viewing of the Hobbit". In
> one scene in the Hobbit Hole just before the group leaves someone holds
> up the chair.  It is on the left with most of it obscured by Gandolf's
> head.  My grandson is deep into the series and one of those chairs in
> his room beside his TARDIS bookshelf would put him beside himself.
>
> So, anyone know where the plans for such a chair or stool can be found?
>

On 1/9/2013 10:13 AM, bsrlee wrote:
> http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Medieval.html
> David Freeman = Cariadoc of the Bow

Another good source, thank you.

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

You won't be sorry--measuring and working with 120 degree angles instead
of 90 takes some getting used to, and springing the last tenons in can
take another pair of hands sometimes, but it's worth it for the way they
sit on uneven ground that would badly rack a four-legged chair.

I made a hackingstock (hewing bench) with three legs last year, and I have
yet to find a camp or booth site where it isn't wonderfully solid.  I feel
secure using it for a stepstool, which I certainly wouldn't with anything
four-legged.

Ulfhedinn

On 1/14/2013 12:16 PM, conradh@... wrote:
> You won't be sorry--measuring and working with 120 degree angles instead
> of 90 takes some getting used to, and springing the last tenons in can
> take another pair of hands sometimes, but it's worth it for the way they
> sit on uneven ground that would badly rack a four-legged chair.

That is one of the reasons for taking on this project, something new to
learn.  I am thinking of using small Oaks from my 40 acres of woods.
One more project in the queue.

--
Don Bowen           AD0BR
"A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In
solitude alone can he know true freedom."
-Michel De Montaigne 1588
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

Your link has a pretty funny typo!

Here's the one that works:

http://scawoodprojects.wordpress.com/

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Ellison"  wrote:
>
>
>
> I have finally figured out how make pictures and some text visible.
>
> I dropped them on a blog:
> http://scawoodprojects.woodpress.com/
>
> A couple of posts that
> show the tooling and post that shows the final output mounted in a
> "Moxon Vice".
>
> Overall the project was a success, if
> you want to see them in person I'll have them an an SCA event in Minnesota
> in Feb. 9th I'm teaching a class (teaching is a strong word, sharing what
> I learned would be a better term).  Also I'll be teaching a workbench
> class and a structural analysis class on cathedrals.
>
> So at this
> point since I have made all of the screws that I will need for a while,
> still need to make a nut for a leg vice in a new workbench that is in
> process.
>
> Moral of the story, if you want a vice screw, pay a
> nice person to make you one.  If you like adventure and think wood
> screws are really cool this is a doable project it just takes time.
>
> Peter
>

Here is a photo tutorial for you complete with the jigs for drilling the holes
for the stretchers. It is an excellent blog to subscribe to if you have not
visited it before.

http://thomasguild.blogspot.com/2011/07/turned-triangle-stool.html

Karin
--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Don Bowen  wrote:
>
> On 1/14/2013 12:16 PM, conradh@... wrote:
> > You won't be sorry--measuring and working with 120 degree angles instead
> > of 90 takes some getting used to, and springing the last tenons in can
> > take another pair of hands sometimes, but it's worth it for the way they
> > sit on uneven ground that would badly rack a four-legged chair.
>
> That is one of the reasons for taking on this project, something new to
> learn.  I am thinking of using small Oaks from my 40 acres of woods.
> One more project in the queue.
>
> --
> Don Bowen           AD0BR
> "A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve.
In solitude alone can he know true freedom."
> -Michel De Montaigne 1588
> http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html
>

This list has been fairly quiet, I started a cross kingdoms A&S
discussion group on facebook.  any A&S not just woodworking, you are
all welcome to come over and chat

MedievalArtsandSciences@...
http://www.facebook.com/groups/MedievalArtsandSciences/

-Capten Rhys

I have a question for the collected wisdom of the group.  If you were to develop
an "event" tool box, what tools should go in it?  Now, I know:  you can't know
what tools you will need until you know what the task is at hand. And that's the
point.  As a woodworker, your last name tends to become Canu.  As in, "Master
William, can u . . . . ?"

Often the answer is "no," because I don't have my tools with me. I'm not going
to pack up the shop for every weekend event, but I'm trying to figure out what a
good, general purpose kit would be for SCA events so that I have what I need on
hand to help out or fix when I'm on site.