Skip to search.

Breaking News Visit Yahoo! News for the latest.

×Close this window

medievalsawdust · SCA and Medieval Woodworking

The Yahoo! Groups Product Blog

Check it out!

Group Information

? Already a member? Sign in to Yahoo!

Yahoo! Groups Tips

Did you know...
Message search is now enhanced, find messages faster. Take it for a spin.

Messages

Advanced
Messages Help
Messages 13002 - 13031 of 15720   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Messages: Show Message Summaries Sort by Date ^  
#13002 From: "erik_mage" <dragonwyck@...>
Date: Sun Aug 1, 2010 10:16 am
Subject: Re: New here
erik_mage
Send Email Send Email
 
Sounds like the voice of experiance. The grain is the issue.We are agreed.

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, leaking pen <itsatrap@...> wrote:
>
> I find purple heart works best with slow cutting action.  Its not so much
> the hardness, as the shape of the grain and the way it splinters.  Truly
> cutting tools as opposed to abbrading tools work best.  Keep you lathe speed
> high and your pressure light. Also, finish with cabinet scrapers and not
> sandpaper for an amazing finish.
>
> On Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 4:42 PM, erik_mage <dragonwyck@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi, Not knowing the skill level of our viewers I like to err on the side of
> > safety. I do very little turning but I have a BIG mouth and like to express
> > my experiances . I have found that purple heart doesn't even like the
> > circular saw. Throwing rather large sharp splinters. So I recomend using
> > finer cutting impliments as a safety precation.
> > I once actualy made a very sharp knife from purple heart. One of my
> > favorite woods.
> > To close , your stament is true purple heart can be turned. I would rather
> > not. But If I had to I would use a 4 1/2" power grinder as my cutting tool
> > then work down to various grit sandpaper or files.
> > Does this sound sensable?
> > ERIK
> >
> >
> > --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com <medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Erik;
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I would respectfully disagree with you regarding purpleheart. Yes, it
> > > is fairly hard, and I would not recommend it for a beginner. However,
> > > you can work it nicely with sharp tools and a light touch.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Kat;
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > For an endless supply if wood to convert to shavings as you learn, make
> > > friends with an arborist or two. Also, if you find you really like
> > > turning, look into joining the American Association of Woodturners
> > > (http://www.woodturner.org/). Some of the things people do on a lathe
> > > are just mindblowing.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Charles Joiner
> > >
> > > Explorer of Slippery Slopes since AS XVIII
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
[mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>]
> > On Behalf Of erik_mage
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:16 AM
> > > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com <medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: New here
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Happy to talk about some woods and finishes. Apple is nice. An unusual
> > > wood to try is Summac a wild tree or weed comes out a rainbow of green
> > > colors. You can't go wrong with cherry. Just don't us alot of stain.
> > > Stay away from Oak it was so over used in the 20th century that it can't
> > > help but look cheep or mass produced.
> > > Purple heart should be available in your area (shipped in from S.A.)
> > > This wood has a nicw chocolate color, or if handled just right it can
> > > have a purple grape color.
> > > I must warn purple heart is dangerous on a lathe. It has long needle
> > > like grain , VERY hard and splinters. You will need to use sanders and
> > > grinders in conjunction with a lathe. Never a sharp tool!
> > >
> > > Stick with cherry or maple if your are not an expert.
> > > Have fun ERIK 'mage Castle dragonwyck.
> > >
> > > --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
<mailto:medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%2540yahoogroups.com>>
> > , "Crazy Cat Lady"
> >
> > > <brockenspectre@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi there! I'm Lady Kateryne Ferneley, of Caer Mear, Atlantia. A couple
> > > > Laurels enabled me into working on a pentathalon entry (probably
> > > because
> > > > they were sick of seeing yet another piece of Elizabethan clothing),
> > > and
> > > > my husband has something of a woodshop...
> > > >
> > > > Turns out I really, really like the lathe. I didn't need any more
> > > > hobbies, but what do you do?
> > > >
> > > > My first couple projects are a needlecase or several and an embroidery
> > > > frame from late Elizabethan England. I've got lots of questions about
> > > > tropical wood availability, finishes, corner treatments and so on and
> > > so
> > > > forth if you're willing to put up with me...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > -Kat Ferneley
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

#13003 From: "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@...>
Date: Sun Aug 1, 2010 4:19 pm
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: New here
chuckp1066
Send Email Send Email
 

While the abrasive approach will work, in my experience you will achieve a superior result with a cutting tool.  Doing so requires the development of a light touch, sharp tools, and a heightened awareness of where the grain is running.

 

Charles Joiner

 

From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of erik_mage
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 4:42 PM
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: New here

 

 

Hi, Not knowing the skill level of our viewers I like to err on the side of safety. I do very little turning but I have a BIG mouth and like to express my experiances . I have found that purple heart doesn't even like the circular saw. Throwing rather large sharp splinters. So I recomend using finer cutting impliments as a safety precation.
I once actualy made a very sharp knife from purple heart. One of my favorite woods.
To close , your stament is true purple heart can be turned. I would rather not. But If I had to I would use a 4 1/2" power grinder as my cutting tool then work down to various grit sandpaper or files.
Does this sound sensable?
ERIK

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@...> wrote:
>
> Erik;
>
>
>
> I would respectfully disagree with you regarding purpleheart. Yes, it
> is fairly hard, and I would not recommend it for a beginner. However,
> you can work it nicely with sharp tools and a light touch.
>
>
>
> Kat;
>
>
>
> For an endless supply if wood to convert to shavings as you learn, make
> friends with an arborist or two. Also, if you find you really like
> turning, look into joining the American Association of Woodturners
> (http://www.woodturner.org/). Some of the things people do on a lathe
> are just mindblowing.
>
>
>
> Charles Joiner
>
> Explorer of Slippery Slopes since AS XVIII
>
>
>
> From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of erik_mage
> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:16 AM
> To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: New here
>
>
>
>
>
> Happy to talk about some woods and finishes. Apple is nice. An unusual
> wood to try is Summac a wild tree or weed comes out a rainbow of green
> colors. You can't go wrong with cherry. Just don't us alot of stain.
> Stay away from Oak it was so over used in the 20th century that it can't
> help but look cheep or mass produced.
> Purple heart should be available in your area (shipped in from S.A.)
> This wood has a nicw chocolate color, or if handled just right it can
> have a purple grape color.
> I must warn purple heart is dangerous on a lathe. It has long needle
> like grain , VERY hard and splinters. You will need to use sanders and
> grinders in conjunction with a lathe. Never a sharp tool!
>
> Stick with cherry or maple if your are not an expert.
> Have fun ERIK 'mage Castle dragonwyck.
>
> --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com> , "Crazy Cat Lady"
> <brockenspectre@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi there! I'm Lady Kateryne Ferneley, of Caer Mear, Atlantia. A couple
> > Laurels enabled me into working on a pentathalon entry (probably
> because
> > they were sick of seeing yet another piece of Elizabethan clothing),
> and
> > my husband has something of a woodshop...
> >
> > Turns out I really, really like the lathe. I didn't need any more
> > hobbies, but what do you do?
> >
> > My first couple projects are a needlecase or several and an embroidery
> > frame from late Elizabethan England. I've got lots of questions about
> > tropical wood availability, finishes, corner treatments and so on and
> so
> > forth if you're willing to put up with me...
> >
> > Thanks!
> > -Kat Ferneley
> >
>


#13004 From: "erik_mage" <dragonwyck@...>
Date: Mon Aug 2, 2010 1:01 am
Subject: Big Archery bows
erik_mage
Send Email Send Email
 
Archery was a hoot today. The new big bow was set loose. Some of the arrows went
200' into the air. Shooting the 40 yard target was rather direct . Kettle(heavy
list ) was kind enough to take a few shots. Isenbart(archer) made good use of it
as well.
A very knowlageble man who builds a lot of bows said that This bow will finish
out at about 65#. This number disapoints me only in the slightest. Since I was
hoping for 80#. Optimisticaly I'm heading in the right direction. Next week The
bow maybe finished or broken!
Wish me luck.
ERIK 'mage

#13005 From: "joceannora" <joceannora@...>
Date: Mon Aug 2, 2010 5:10 am
Subject: Re: You sewed a "GP Medium" on a domestic machine? - was SCA sewing, and other skills,
joceannora
Send Email Send Email
 
Goode Sir Baker,

Yes to both, in fact, two helpers and a large gravity table. But it is in
pieces. The canvas a 13 oz. and it's 12ft x 20ft. The walls are free hanging and
reach from one side of the doorway around the short side to the doorway on the
other side. So the flat-felled seams were just putting each color piece onto the
wall which grew longer as each piece was added, the pieces went through the
throat, not the whole wall. The top was the most trouble fitting through with it
complex angle joins.

We learned as the years passed. The pole gromets were replaced with stronger
leather fittings, the walls needed ties to attach to the top (done with
stitching reinforced d-rings onto the top every several feet). The household
refuses to retire it. They too much like the way it glows from the giant hanging
candelabra which lights it in the darkness of night.

I will never embark on making another unless I become feeble in my old age.

Thank you, I'm impressed we blew your hat off! I almost couldn't hear your
praise over the sound of my own awsomeness! 8]

Jocea




> Gentle Lady Joceannora,
>  that must have been a real struggle - it looks to be about the size of what
the US Military call a "GP Medium". I have an ex-British-military [NAAFI] one of
14oz. canvas, which is 14ft x 22ft footprint,  -  it must be all of 40 years old
now.  Having had experience sewing large Sails in my late teens and early 20's, 
- I'd hate to have to try sewing anything that large without the use of a Sail
Loft, a "helper", - and some form of "gravity table" infeed and outfeed.
> My hat's off to you and your Lord, my Lady.
>
> I've not had the opportunity to drive too many of what you call "pickuyps" and
ther Aussies call "Utes". Until recently, that vehicle-type didn't have
substantial popularity in the |UK.
>
> In service to the Current Middle Ages,
>  Matthewe Baker,
>  West Dragonshire, Drachenwald
>

#13006 From: julian wilson <smnco37@...>
Date: Mon Aug 2, 2010 2:16 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: You sewed a "GP Medium" on a domestic machine? - was SCA sewing, and other skills,
smnco37
Send Email Send Email
 
My lady Joceannora,
thank you for your reply. Just in case any members of the SCA are reading this List - and I'm sure that some do, - I am too old too learn the Society's fighting style, and therefore will never be KSCA, and do not merit the Title "SIR" - though I do most sincerely appreciate your courtoisie in making the assumption. You do me too much honour..
 
In service to the Current Middle Ages, and given under my hand at the Manor of St. Germayns in the Anglo-Norman Isle of Jersey
Lord Matthewe Baker,
 a humble veteran.

--- On Mon, 2/8/10, joceannora <joceannora@...> wrote:

From: joceannora <joceannora@...>
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: You sewed a "GP Medium" on a domestic machine? - was SCA sewing, and other skills,
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, 2 August, 2010, 6:10

 
Goode Sir Baker,

Yes to both, in fact, two helpers and a large gravity table. But it is in pieces. The canvas a 13 oz. and it's 12ft x 20ft. The walls are free hanging and reach from one side of the doorway around the short side to the doorway on the other side. So the flat-felled seams were just putting each color piece onto the wall which grew longer as each piece was added, the pieces went through the throat, not the whole wall. The top was the most trouble fitting through with it complex angle joins.

We learned as the years passed. The pole gromets were replaced with stronger leather fittings, the walls needed ties to attach to the top (done with stitching reinforced d-rings onto the top every several feet). The household refuses to retire it. They too much like the way it glows from the giant hanging candelabra which lights it in the darkness of night.

I will never embark on making another unless I become feeble in my old age.

Thank you, I'm impressed we blew your hat off! I almost couldn't hear your praise over the sound of my own awsomeness! 8]

Jocea

> Gentle Lady Joceannora,
>  that must have been a real struggle - it looks to be about the size of what the US Military call a "GP Medium". I have an ex-British-military [NAAFI] one of 14oz. canvas, which is 14ft x 22ft footprint,  -  it must be all of 40 years old now.  Having had experience sewing large Sails in my late teens and early 20's,  - I'd hate to have to try sewing anything that large without the use of a Sail Loft, a "helper", - and some form of "gravity table" infeed and outfeed.
> My hat's off to you and your Lord, my Lady.
>
> I've not had the opportunity to drive too many of what you call "pickuyps" and ther Aussies call "Utes". Until recently, that vehicle-type didn't have substantial popularity in the |UK.
>
> In service to the Current Middle Ages,
>  Matthewe Baker,
>  West Dragonshire, Drachenwald
>


#13007 From: Megan Shogren <brockenspectre@...>
Date: Mon Aug 2, 2010 3:10 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] New World woods brought to Europe?
brockenspectre
Send Email Send Email
 
Aha!  Well, almost.  Take a look at the stool- second picture from the bottom.  "Rosewood and Brazilian Padoukwood, c. 1580"  Now, if only they'd been specific about its origin, whether it was colonial or European...  The article talks about the timber trade briefly, but I was looking for primary sources.
 
The V&A also has an Italian box with mahogany inlay (16th century)
 
There are a bunch of other inlaid items, but most are inlaid with ebony or rosewood or padouk, which can't be definitively pinned down as New World.  There's a German cabinet c.1600 that mentions an inlay of "tulip-wood"- intriguing in that two of three modern uses refer to American trees- tulip poplar and the Brazilian Dalbergia decipularis, and the third refers to an Australian tree (which I would imagine we could rule out).
 
-Kat Ferneley


#13008 From: "Chuck Belitz" <cbelitz@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 7:11 pm
Subject: Greek Fire
belitz36268
Send Email Send Email
 
Has anyone developed a workable
formula for Greek Fire to be launched
from your siege engines?
Sir Karl von Belitz

 

#13009 From: nelsonhaynes@...
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 7:34 pm
Subject: Greek Fire
appelgarthe
Send Email Send Email
 
From what I have heard, the formula for Greek fire has been lost for all time. It's a shame.
 
Master Nigel

#13010 From: leaking pen <itsatrap@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 7:42 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
the_leaking_pen
Send Email Send Email
 
I thought there was pretty conclusive evidence that it was distilled naptha and limestone dust?

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:34 PM, <nelsonhaynes@...> wrote:
 

From what I have heard, the formula for Greek fire has been lost for all time. It's a shame.
 
Master Nigel



#13011 From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 7:51 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
wyrdwynd
Send Email Send Email
 
im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....


now ive done mine own rendition < not original but combustably fun...in a quarry mind you though >...with shaved several bars of lux soap, blend of alcohol and lamp oil and kerosene< ive used cigarette lighter fluid too> cant rember the formula...gotta look it up in my Henley's

have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!



--- On Tue, 8/3/10, nelsonhaynes@... <nelsonhaynes@...> wrote:

From: nelsonhaynes@... <nelsonhaynes@...>
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 3:34 PM



From what I have heard, the formula for Greek fire has been lost for all time. It's a shame.
 
Master Nigel




#13012 From: Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 7:55 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
littleaiden
Send Email Send Email
 
I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:

From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM

 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....




#13013 From: Colleen Vince <42vince@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 7:59 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
mary_ostler
Send Email Send Email
 
Its some sort of chemical fire.... water will just spread the fire. Better to try to smother the fire with sand.



On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...> wrote:
 

I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:

From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM


 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....






--
Mary Ostler    
Apprentice to Mistress Agnes Cresewyke
Lions Gate Game Marshal
www.maryostler.com

#13014 From: froggie_910@...
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 8:01 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
froggie_910
Send Email Send Email
 
Ooo. Glass!!
From: Colleen Vince <42vince@...>
Sender: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:59:52 -0700
To: <medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire

 

Its some sort of chemical fire.... water will just spread the fire. Better to try to smother the fire with sand.




On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Trevor Payne <littleaiden@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM


 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....






--
Mary Ostler    
Apprentice to Mistress Agnes Cresewyke
Lions Gate Game Marshal
www.maryostler.com


#13015 From: "Royce" <rcetlin@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 9:02 pm
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
martiel01
Send Email Send Email
 

I guess I’m just more concerned that there be an ABC fire extinguisher on the engine.  Greek Fire + Wood = Bad juju.

 

Now, on the slightly more “doing it just because” side…

 

I would go for something like Napalm (naptha flakes soaked in gas basically) or white phosphorus to re-create the effect.   Each one has its own control issues, especially the willy pete.

 

Anyone else care to add more fuel to the fire?

 

Bercilak

 

 

From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of froggie_910@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 1:01 PM
To: Medieval Sawdust
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire

 

 

Ooo. Glass!!


From: Colleen Vince <42vince@...>

Sender: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:59:52 -0700

To: <medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com>

ReplyTo: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire

 

 

Its some sort of chemical fire.... water will just spread the fire. Better to try to smother the fire with sand.

 

 

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...> wrote:

 

I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:


From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM

 

 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....

 




--
Mary Ostler    
Apprentice to Mistress Agnes Cresewyke
Lions Gate Game Marshal
www.maryostler.com


#13016 From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 9:10 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
wyrdwynd
Send Email Send Email
 
no it did increase just didnt sink or go out, floated

have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!



--- On Tue, 8/3/10, Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...> wrote:

From: Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 3:55 PM



I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:

From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM

 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....







#13017 From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 9:11 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
wyrdwynd
Send Email Send Email
 
okay, sand buckets...

have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!



--- On Tue, 8/3/10, Colleen Vince <42vince@...> wrote:

From: Colleen Vince <42vince@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 3:59 PM



Its some sort of chemical fire.... water will just spread the fire. Better to try to smother the fire with sand.



On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...> wrote:
 

I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:

From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM


 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....






--
Mary Ostler    
Apprentice to Mistress Agnes Cresewyke
Lions Gate Game Marshal
www.maryostler.com




#13018 From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Date: Tue Aug 3, 2010 9:11 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
wyrdwynd
Send Email Send Email
 
heheh...i failling miserable okay,m,, marshmallows and sticks then...

have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!



--- On Tue, 8/3/10, froggie_910@... <froggie_910@...> wrote:

From: froggie_910@... <froggie_910@...>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: "Medieval Sawdust" <medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 4:01 PM



Ooo. Glass!!
From: Colleen Vince <42vince@...>
Sender: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:59:52 -0700
To: <medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire

 

Its some sort of chemical fire.... water will just spread the fire. Better to try to smother the fire with sand.




On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Trevor Payne <littleaiden@ yahoo.com> wrote:
 

I believe Greek fire become MORE combustable with the addition of water didn't it?

bucket brigade?  No I don't think so.

Aiden


"Those who beat their swords into plowshares plow for those who didn't"
--Benjamin Franklin--

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire
To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 2:51 PM


 

im more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???....me thinks we need to invest in a  " Ye Ode Bucket Brigade"....






--
Mary Ostler    
Apprentice to Mistress Agnes Cresewyke
Lions Gate Game Marshal
www.maryostler. com




#13019 From: chris carpenter <donat0@...>
Date: Wed Aug 4, 2010 5:02 pm
Subject: (No subject)
donat0
Send Email Send Email
 
Well Aqa, guess there is no longer any doubt as to how your hamsters caught on fire... question is, do they really yodel when you light them up?? 
 
Donat0


#13020 From: "ErikB" <bairdec@...>
Date: Wed Aug 4, 2010 6:44 pm
Subject: Re: Greek Fire
baird.erik
Send Email Send Email
 
That sounds like red phosphorus- water will smother white phosphorus.

Erik Baird

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:
>
> no it did increase just didnt sink or go out, floated
>
> have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!
>
>
>

#13021 From: "Chuck Belitz" <cbelitz@...>
Date: Wed Aug 4, 2010 8:32 pm
Subject: Greek Fire ... again
belitz36268
Send Email Send Email
 
wyrdwynd@... said, "I'm more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???"
 
This "gentlelord" is not at all "pissed off." It's just that we play rough in my group.
 
I appreciate the suggestions so far. But, I have a LOT of Army experience with flame throwers, flame bombs, flame tanks, flame fougasses, nuclear simulators, and other fun applications for thickened fuel. I used to mix 300 gallons at a time. I have the belief, though, that Greek Fire was, for lack of a better word, "thicker" than napalm. And, I expect that it was less volatile than napalm too. I wouldn't want to hand light a napalm projectile. So, I'm still looking for a better receipe. Or, at least, one that has been tested. Any more thoughts?
Sir Karl

#13022 From: leaking pen <itsatrap@...>
Date: Wed Aug 4, 2010 8:35 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire ... again
the_leaking_pen
Send Email Send Email
 
i wouldnt say so, since it was blown by hand out of tubes as well, right?

On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 1:32 PM, Chuck Belitz <cbelitz@...> wrote:
 

wyrdwynd@... said, "I'm more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???"
 
This "gentlelord" is not at all "pissed off." It's just that we play rough in my group.
 
I appreciate the suggestions so far. But, I have a LOT of Army experience with flame throwers, flame bombs, flame tanks, flame fougasses, nuclear simulators, and other fun applications for thickened fuel. I used to mix 300 gallons at a time. I have the belief, though, that Greek Fire was, for lack of a better word, "thicker" than napalm. And, I expect that it was less volatile than napalm too. I wouldn't want to hand light a napalm projectile. So, I'm still looking for a better receipe. Or, at least, one that has been tested. Any more thoughts?
Sir Karl


#13023 From: Jim Looper <jimlooper@...>
Date: Wed Aug 4, 2010 10:58 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire ... again
jimlooper1970
Send Email Send Email
 

It may have been thicker, but have no way to know.

Also, you could completely seal the projectile/container if it was made of ceramic of a sort. Just soak the taper/fuse in the material and tie it around. When the projectile bursts, the mixture would be ignited.

 

Lucien



I do not count as a credible source.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Belitz" <cbelitz@...>
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 4, 2010 4:32:36 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Greek Fire ... again

wyrdwynd@... said, "I'm more worried about who pissed this gentlelord off,..... greek fire..???.. from a seige machine ...???"
 
This "gentlelord" is not at all "pissed off." It's just that we play rough in my group.
 
I appreciate the suggestions so far. But, I have a LOT of Army experience with flame throwers, flame bombs, flame tanks, flame fougasses, nuclear simulators, and other fun applications for thickened fuel. I used to mix 300 gallons at a time. I have the belief, though, that Greek Fire was, for lack of a better word, "thicker" than napalm. And, I expect that it was less volatile than napalm too. I wouldn't want to hand light a napalm projectile. So, I'm still looking for a better receipe. Or, at least, one that has been tested. Any more thoughts?
Sir Karl

#13024 From: AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...>
Date: Thu Aug 5, 2010 4:07 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] (unknown)
wyrdwynd
Send Email Send Email
 
hell hath no fury like a hamster on charbroil...


wouldnt you be todeling too if yer kibbles were apark...????

have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!



--- On Wed, 8/4/10, chris carpenter <donat0@...> wrote:

From: chris carpenter <donat0@...>
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] (unknown)
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 4, 2010, 1:02 PM



Well Aqa, guess there is no longer any doubt as to how your hamsters caught on fire... question is, do they really yodel when you light them up?? 
 
Donat0





#13025 From: "Chuck Belitz" <cbelitz@...>
Date: Thu Aug 5, 2010 4:51 pm
Subject: Greek fire - honest man
belitz36268
Send Email Send Email
 
Lucien said, " I do not count
as a credible source."
Ahhh, an humble and honest
man!!!  Such a rare find!   ;-)
 
Sir Karl

#13026 From: Jim Looper <jimlooper@...>
Date: Fri Aug 6, 2010 12:17 am
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Greek fire - honest man
jimlooper1970
Send Email Send Email
 

Heh... Glad you like.

 

Lucien

I do not count as a credible source.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Belitz" <cbelitz@...>
To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2010 12:51:29 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Greek fire - honest man

Lucien said, " I do not count
as a credible source."
Ahhh, an humble and honest
man!!!  Such a rare find!   ;-)
 
Sir Karl

#13027 From: "erik_mage" <dragonwyck@...>
Date: Sat Aug 7, 2010 3:06 pm
Subject: Big bow success Hickory over locust
erik_mage
Send Email Send Email
 
I am being self congradulatory. The Big bow has passed the tillering and is now
ready to shoot.The poundage is above 65# though not official just yet.
  Equaly so is a smaller bow I designed for Fiona. The draw is shortened to 24"
and has one hell of a kick. This bow may calm down after shooting for one day
but likely finish out about 40-45#. I hope to have a guest so please try to come
to our practice (fort edward NY USA)
ERIK 'mage Glenn linn EK
I still have a (practice bow) for sale @ $50 a couple more in the wings Just
email me if you want one.

#13028 From: Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart <baronconal@...>
Date: Sun Aug 8, 2010 3:27 am
Subject: info on valuing tools?
baronconal
Send Email Send Email
 
I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw 
a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.


I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too little 
and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...


Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me
a feel of what the market supports in value?

And I know the potential range of what I could find in both dealers and tools
is SO wide this is not an easy question.



I also do not want to take advantage of some one who does not know the 
value of what they have through my own ignorance. That would not sit well
with me if I found out that I did that....
 
Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

Aude Aliquid Dignum
' Dare Something Worthy '



#13029 From: Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...>
Date: Sun Aug 8, 2010 1:30 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] info on valuing tools?
jljonsn9663
Send Email Send Email
 

On Aug 7, 2010 11:28 PM, "Conal O&apos;hAirt Jim Hart" <baronconal@...> wrote:

 

I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw 
a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.


I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too little 
and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...


Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me
a feel of what the market supports in value?

And I know the potential range of what I could find in both dealers and tools
is SO wide this is not an easy question.



I also do not want to take advantage of some one who does not know the 
value of what they have through my own ignorance. That would not sit well
with me if I found out that I did that....
 
Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

Aude Aliquid Dignum
' Dare Something Worthy '



#13030 From: "erik_mage" <dragonwyck@...>
Date: Sun Aug 8, 2010 4:45 pm
Subject: Re: info on valuing tools?
erik_mage
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi, The value of anything is only that which someone is willing to pay for it
nothing more and nothing less.
With that said. You likely are looking for tools to be used. Having been in many
antique sales (at least 2 per year) I keep and eye out for chisles and gouges.
If you are looking for planes there is no shortage.
Genneral rules to note:(my observations)
Planes easy.. you are going to be gouged! Planes are highly collectable. That is
good old fashion american or german ones. Be sure they have all of thier parts!
anywhere from $20 -$100.
If you're just looking for an old stanley $20- $30 These are hard to sell . If
the handle is made from wood less than that. Dealers would never let a rare tool
through thier hands with out looking it up.

Chisles; Always look for the lodest broken dark patina on chisles. Shorter
shanks are ok you might never use it up anyway. Once again 'dealers" look up
every piece . Times are hard these items are hard to sell. Think $10 per inch of
width but be sure you are buying only the highest grade of steel! either pre
1960's USA ,German or Swiss. New chisles in this grade cost about $100 each.
Look ing disorganized boxes of tools ( These have been set up just for you)
Likely you will find a bunch of modern chisles like buck or craftsman some
chinese. Only going for around $2 each. Chinese $1.

Gouges and burins; Fairly cheep ones will be about $16 each on the retail
market. You can look hard for old wallnut handles or no handles at all. The
handle side should be cone shaped on gouges.OLD STEEL is the only thing you want
here. I have made a simple rule look for bits and pieces pay $1 for small ones
(1/4") $2 medium(1/2") No more than $5. If a dealer has some realy nice gouges
it is not uncommon to pay $20-$50 for them. These are charished items! Be sure
they are stamped by the manufacturer!These are the $100 ones I'm talking about.

Clamps you can never have enough clamps.
$1.00 clamps 2"
$2.00 3-4" with a good solid tip on the screw (not pressed steel)
       for wood work chinese is okay but they are cheep and mar the
       wood so only $1.00 for them
$3.00 - $5.00 For any large clamp 6 - 10" These sell for about $13-30 brand new.

Pipe clamps with pipe I would say $5-$10 is a good price not great but more than
fair.

These are my opinions so I hope they help. My advice is to buy one quality
chisle from a noted dealer. Then scoure the 'garage sale section'
Good luck happy hunting ERIK the mage.
--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...> wrote:
>
> On Aug 7, 2010 11:28 PM, "Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart" <baronconal@...>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw
> a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.
>
>
> I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too
> little
> and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...
>
>
> Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me
> a feel of what the market supports in value?
>
> And I know the potential range of what I could find in both dealers and
> tools
> is SO wide this is not an easy question.
>
>
>
> I also do not want to take advantage of some one who does not know the
> value of what they have through my own ignorance. That would not sit well
> with me if I found out that I did that....
>
> Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
>
> Aude Aliquid Dignum
> ' Dare Something Worthy '
>

#13031 From: conradh@...
Date: Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:02 pm
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] info on valuing tools?
conradh@...
Send Email Send Email
 
On Sat, August 7, 2010 8:27 pm, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
> I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw
> a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.
>
>
> I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too
> little and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...
>
>
> Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me
> a feel of what the market supports in value?
>
Milord Baron: the "market" as represented by antique shows is the last
place one should look for tools!  Prices are greatly inflated there, by
collectors and by a tradition of "no bargains for outsiders".

Prices for insiders vary according to a whole bunch of trivial details, of
interest only to collectors.  An insider can occasionally get a reasonable
deal on what collectors call a "user"--meaning a tool that's only good for
shop use.  Even those prices run high by my standards.

There's not really a "market" for used tools in the usual sense of the
word, except for the hugely inflated antique market, where there are
indeed reference books, websites and grading standards.  However, these
grading standards are not based on quality of the steel or performance,
but on rarity and cosmetics.  From the point of view of someone who just
wants a good tool for good work, you definitely will _not_ get what you
pay for.

Bargains come from people who are cleaning out their basement, or getting
rid of the stuff Grandpa couldn't take with him. People who don't know
"market" prices and often don't even know what the tool is for.
Occasionally, a dealer will be in this situation, if they don't know tools
and only handle a few of them.  Restorers, of furniture, stoves and so on,
often find they have to buy a pallet of odds and ends at an estate auction
to get the chair or woodstove they actually want, and these people
sometimes have an interesting shelf or table of used tools at fair prices.
  (I got my wonderful Champion forge blower for thirty bucks that way, from
a stove restorer who didn't even know what it was.  She just knew she was
tired of stubbing her toe on the base of it.)

A "fair" price is hard to define under these conditions.  Blacksmiths are
a special case--around here at least, smiths seem to have a tradition of
tool prices not antique prices, and something of a fair standard market
can be found at tailgate sales during blacksmithing events.  For instance,
a blower like mine goes for 100-150 dollars, good anvils for 2-3 dollars
per pound, leg vises for 1-2 dollars a pound, and so on.

I don't know of any equivalent for woodworking tools, though I try to
apply the same principles when I happen to have some to sell.  Personally
I very rarely buy tools new or at antique stores.  Sooner than pay those
prices, I'll often make them up from scratch.  You'd be surprised how
often this is doable, and how good the tools can turn out to be.

Ulfhedinn

Messages 13002 - 13031 of 15720   Oldest  |  < Older  |  Newer >  |  Newest
Add to My Yahoo!      XML What's This?

Copyright © 2010 Yahoo! Inc. All rights reserved.
Privacy Policy - Terms of Service - Guidelines NEW - Help