Sounds like the voice of experiance. The grain is the issue.We are agreed.

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, leaking pen <itsatrap@...> wrote:
>
> I find purple heart works best with slow cutting action.  Its not so much
> the hardness, as the shape of the grain and the way it splinters.  Truly
> cutting tools as opposed to abbrading tools work best.  Keep you lathe speed
> high and your pressure light. Also, finish with cabinet scrapers and not
> sandpaper for an amazing finish.
>
> On Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 4:42 PM, erik_mage <dragonwyck@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi, Not knowing the skill level of our viewers I like to err on the side of
> > safety. I do very little turning but I have a BIG mouth and like to express
> > my experiances . I have found that purple heart doesn't even like the
> > circular saw. Throwing rather large sharp splinters. So I recomend using
> > finer cutting impliments as a safety precation.
> > I once actualy made a very sharp knife from purple heart. One of my
> > favorite woods.
> > To close , your stament is true purple heart can be turned. I would rather
> > not. But If I had to I would use a 4 1/2" power grinder as my cutting tool
> > then work down to various grit sandpaper or files.
> > Does this sound sensable?
> > ERIK
> >
> >
> > --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com <medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Erik;
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I would respectfully disagree with you regarding purpleheart. Yes, it
> > > is fairly hard, and I would not recommend it for a beginner. However,
> > > you can work it nicely with sharp tools and a light touch.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Kat;
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > For an endless supply if wood to convert to shavings as you learn, make
> > > friends with an arborist or two. Also, if you find you really like
> > > turning, look into joining the American Association of Woodturners
> > > (http://www.woodturner.org/). Some of the things people do on a lathe
> > > are just mindblowing.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Charles Joiner
> > >
> > > Explorer of Slippery Slopes since AS XVIII
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
[mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>]
> > On Behalf Of erik_mage
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:16 AM
> > > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com <medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: New here
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Happy to talk about some woods and finishes. Apple is nice. An unusual
> > > wood to try is Summac a wild tree or weed comes out a rainbow of green
> > > colors. You can't go wrong with cherry. Just don't us alot of stain.
> > > Stay away from Oak it was so over used in the 20th century that it can't
> > > help but look cheep or mass produced.
> > > Purple heart should be available in your area (shipped in from S.A.)
> > > This wood has a nicw chocolate color, or if handled just right it can
> > > have a purple grape color.
> > > I must warn purple heart is dangerous on a lathe. It has long needle
> > > like grain , VERY hard and splinters. You will need to use sanders and
> > > grinders in conjunction with a lathe. Never a sharp tool!
> > >
> > > Stick with cherry or maple if your are not an expert.
> > > Have fun ERIK 'mage Castle dragonwyck.
> > >
> > > --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
<mailto:medievalsawdust%40yahoogroups.com<medievalsawdust%2540yahoogroups.com>>
> > , "Crazy Cat Lady"
> >
> > > <brockenspectre@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi there! I'm Lady Kateryne Ferneley, of Caer Mear, Atlantia. A couple
> > > > Laurels enabled me into working on a pentathalon entry (probably
> > > because
> > > > they were sick of seeing yet another piece of Elizabethan clothing),
> > > and
> > > > my husband has something of a woodshop...
> > > >
> > > > Turns out I really, really like the lathe. I didn't need any more
> > > > hobbies, but what do you do?
> > > >
> > > > My first couple projects are a needlecase or several and an embroidery
> > > > frame from late Elizabethan England. I've got lots of questions about
> > > > tropical wood availability, finishes, corner treatments and so on and
> > > so
> > > > forth if you're willing to put up with me...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > -Kat Ferneley
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

Archery was a hoot today. The new big bow was set loose. Some of the arrows went
200' into the air. Shooting the 40 yard target was rather direct . Kettle(heavy
list ) was kind enough to take a few shots. Isenbart(archer) made good use of it
as well.
A very knowlageble man who builds a lot of bows said that This bow will finish
out at about 65#. This number disapoints me only in the slightest. Since I was
hoping for 80#. Optimisticaly I'm heading in the right direction. Next week The
bow maybe finished or broken!
Wish me luck.
ERIK 'mage

Goode Sir Baker,

Yes to both, in fact, two helpers and a large gravity table. But it is in
pieces. The canvas a 13 oz. and it's 12ft x 20ft. The walls are free hanging and
reach from one side of the doorway around the short side to the doorway on the
other side. So the flat-felled seams were just putting each color piece onto the
wall which grew longer as each piece was added, the pieces went through the
throat, not the whole wall. The top was the most trouble fitting through with it
complex angle joins.

We learned as the years passed. The pole gromets were replaced with stronger
leather fittings, the walls needed ties to attach to the top (done with
stitching reinforced d-rings onto the top every several feet). The household
refuses to retire it. They too much like the way it glows from the giant hanging
candelabra which lights it in the darkness of night.

I will never embark on making another unless I become feeble in my old age.

Thank you, I'm impressed we blew your hat off! I almost couldn't hear your
praise over the sound of my own awsomeness! 8]

Jocea




> Gentle Lady Joceannora,
>  that must have been a real struggle - it looks to be about the size of what
the US Military call a "GP Medium". I have an ex-British-military [NAAFI] one of
14oz. canvas, which is 14ft x 22ft footprint,  -  it must be all of 40 years old
now.  Having had experience sewing large Sails in my late teens and early 20's, 
- I'd hate to have to try sewing anything that large without the use of a Sail
Loft, a "helper", - and some form of "gravity table" infeed and outfeed.
> My hat's off to you and your Lord, my Lady.
>
> I've not had the opportunity to drive too many of what you call "pickuyps" and
ther Aussies call "Utes". Until recently, that vehicle-type didn't have
substantial popularity in the |UK.
>
> In service to the Current Middle Ages,
>  Matthewe Baker,
>  West Dragonshire, Drachenwald
>

That sounds like red phosphorus- water will smother white phosphorus.

Erik Baird

--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, AqA WyrdWynd <wyrdwynd@...> wrote:
>
> no it did increase just didnt sink or go out, floated
>
> have at ye with a flock of flaming yodeling hamsters !!!
>
>
>

I am being self congradulatory. The Big bow has passed the tillering and is now
ready to shoot.The poundage is above 65# though not official just yet.
  Equaly so is a smaller bow I designed for Fiona. The draw is shortened to 24"
and has one hell of a kick. This bow may calm down after shooting for one day
but likely finish out about 40-45#. I hope to have a guest so please try to come
to our practice (fort edward NY USA)
ERIK 'mage Glenn linn EK
I still have a (practice bow) for sale @ $50 a couple more in the wings Just
email me if you want one.

On Aug 7, 2010 11:28 PM, "Conal O&apos;hAirt Jim Hart" <baronconal@...> wrote:

 

I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw 

a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.

I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too little 

and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...

Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me

a feel of what the market supports in value?

And I know the potential range of what I could find in both dealers and tools

is SO wide this is not an easy question.

I also do not want to take advantage of some one who does not know the 

value of what they have through my own ignorance. That would not sit well

with me if I found out that I did that....

 

Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

Aude Aliquid Dignum
' Dare Something Worthy '

Hi, The value of anything is only that which someone is willing to pay for it
nothing more and nothing less.
With that said. You likely are looking for tools to be used. Having been in many
antique sales (at least 2 per year) I keep and eye out for chisles and gouges.
If you are looking for planes there is no shortage.
Genneral rules to note:(my observations)
Planes easy.. you are going to be gouged! Planes are highly collectable. That is
good old fashion american or german ones. Be sure they have all of thier parts!
anywhere from $20 -$100.
If you're just looking for an old stanley $20- $30 These are hard to sell . If
the handle is made from wood less than that. Dealers would never let a rare tool
through thier hands with out looking it up.

Chisles; Always look for the lodest broken dark patina on chisles. Shorter
shanks are ok you might never use it up anyway. Once again 'dealers" look up
every piece . Times are hard these items are hard to sell. Think $10 per inch of
width but be sure you are buying only the highest grade of steel! either pre
1960's USA ,German or Swiss. New chisles in this grade cost about $100 each.
Look ing disorganized boxes of tools ( These have been set up just for you)
Likely you will find a bunch of modern chisles like buck or craftsman some
chinese. Only going for around $2 each. Chinese $1.

Gouges and burins; Fairly cheep ones will be about $16 each on the retail
market. You can look hard for old wallnut handles or no handles at all. The
handle side should be cone shaped on gouges.OLD STEEL is the only thing you want
here. I have made a simple rule look for bits and pieces pay $1 for small ones
(1/4") $2 medium(1/2") No more than $5. If a dealer has some realy nice gouges
it is not uncommon to pay $20-$50 for them. These are charished items! Be sure
they are stamped by the manufacturer!These are the $100 ones I'm talking about.

Clamps you can never have enough clamps.
$1.00 clamps 2"
$2.00 3-4" with a good solid tip on the screw (not pressed steel)
       for wood work chinese is okay but they are cheep and mar the
       wood so only $1.00 for them
$3.00 - $5.00 For any large clamp 6 - 10" These sell for about $13-30 brand new.

Pipe clamps with pipe I would say $5-$10 is a good price not great but more than
fair.

These are my opinions so I hope they help. My advice is to buy one quality
chisle from a noted dealer. Then scoure the 'garage sale section'
Good luck happy hunting ERIK the mage.
--- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...> wrote:
>
> On Aug 7, 2010 11:28 PM, "Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart" <baronconal@...>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw
> a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.
>
>
> I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too
> little
> and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...
>
>
> Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me
> a feel of what the market supports in value?
>
> And I know the potential range of what I could find in both dealers and
> tools
> is SO wide this is not an easy question.
>
>
>
> I also do not want to take advantage of some one who does not know the
> value of what they have through my own ignorance. That would not sit well
> with me if I found out that I did that....
>
> Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
>
> Aude Aliquid Dignum
> ' Dare Something Worthy '
>

On Sat, August 7, 2010 8:27 pm, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
> I've got a halfway descent monthly antique show near me that I saw
> a fair amount of tools at during my first visit.
>
>
> I'd like to pick up a few but I do not want to insult by offering too
> little and I do not want to get taken by an unscrupulous dealer...
>
>
> Anyone have a good suggestion for a general reference book to give me
> a feel of what the market supports in value?
>
Milord Baron: the "market" as represented by antique shows is the last
place one should look for tools!  Prices are greatly inflated there, by
collectors and by a tradition of "no bargains for outsiders".

Prices for insiders vary according to a whole bunch of trivial details, of
interest only to collectors.  An insider can occasionally get a reasonable
deal on what collectors call a "user"--meaning a tool that's only good for
shop use.  Even those prices run high by my standards.

There's not really a "market" for used tools in the usual sense of the
word, except for the hugely inflated antique market, where there are
indeed reference books, websites and grading standards.  However, these
grading standards are not based on quality of the steel or performance,
but on rarity and cosmetics.  From the point of view of someone who just
wants a good tool for good work, you definitely will _not_ get what you
pay for.

Bargains come from people who are cleaning out their basement, or getting
rid of the stuff Grandpa couldn't take with him. People who don't know
"market" prices and often don't even know what the tool is for.
Occasionally, a dealer will be in this situation, if they don't know tools
and only handle a few of them.  Restorers, of furniture, stoves and so on,
often find they have to buy a pallet of odds and ends at an estate auction
to get the chair or woodstove they actually want, and these people
sometimes have an interesting shelf or table of used tools at fair prices.
  (I got my wonderful Champion forge blower for thirty bucks that way, from
a stove restorer who didn't even know what it was.  She just knew she was
tired of stubbing her toe on the base of it.)

A "fair" price is hard to define under these conditions.  Blacksmiths are
a special case--around here at least, smiths seem to have a tradition of
tool prices not antique prices, and something of a fair standard market
can be found at tailgate sales during blacksmithing events.  For instance,
a blower like mine goes for 100-150 dollars, good anvils for 2-3 dollars
per pound, leg vises for 1-2 dollars a pound, and so on.

I don't know of any equivalent for woodworking tools, though I try to
apply the same principles when I happen to have some to sell.  Personally
I very rarely buy tools new or at antique stores.  Sooner than pay those
prices, I'll often make them up from scratch.  You'd be surprised how
often this is doable, and how good the tools can turn out to be.

Ulfhedinn