I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, and
subscriptions, go to http://www.liontales.com
Last-Minute Decision
Around 11:30 a.m. I decided it would be
fun to catch the 12:15 Shuttle for Vegas and return to LA in time for dinner.
Last-minute fares on the LA-Vegas run were only $50 higher each way than the
cheapest advance-purchase fares so I jumped in the white Pontiac, fortunately having
put the top down previously, and burned rubber to the airport. I drove up top
and turned left to gamble on the closest parking. Lot 1 was full but
fortunately lot 7 was open. There was a sign saying they were raising the rates
to $24/day in October. Yikes!
I drove around and around and didn’t see a
spot on the roof so I looked for the way down but I couldn’t find that either
so I headed for the exit. That ramp took me all the way down to the ground
where an attendant motioned me to the tollbooth. I waved my arms and asked,
“How do you get to the other levels?” He asked how long I was staying. “A few
hours.” He said it’s a two-hour max on the ground level but he figured I’d be
OK so I backed up and turned into the Do Not Enter. I found a spot after three
aisles, jumped out, and ran across the street and up the escalator. I went
through secret security and didn’t beep. I ran to gate 81, stood in a short
line, presented a spread hand of driver’s license, Sheraton Optima, and 1K
card, and said, “I’d like to get on this flight if possible.”
“Where were you before this?” asked the
agent. “In my living room.” “No, I mean what flight were you on.” “Oh, I wasn’t
on a flight.” “Oh, then you want to purchase
a ticket.” “Yes! I want to purchase a ticket!” “We can’t do that here. You have
to go to Customer Service.” She craned her neck to look across the corridor
behind me. “And it looks like they’ve got quite a line.” I thanked her and ran
to the secret Premier Executive checkin but they had a line too so I called the
1K number and explained the situation. Quick as a flash they sold me a ticket
to a later flight ($89.50) as I ran back to gate 81. They couldn’t sell me a
ticket to this flight because it was sold out so they sold me one on the later
flight so I could stand by.
There were a few people in line so I went
to the desk and butted in. “I got a ticket on flight 2560 so I can stand by
now.” The woman next in line looked at me and I waved my hand and said, “It’s
OK. I was here already.” She said, “It’s OK. I don’t mind.” Before you could say,
“Examine your options for other airlines,” I had a boarding pass in hand for
seat 12F.
I approached the gate. Two United
employees were leaning against the wall chatting. I walked up and one of them
said, “Hold on! You got to stick that in the machine!” I knew it was her job to
stick it in the machine, not lean against the wall chatting, so I pretended I
didn’t know how the machine worked and tried to stick it in the vent in the
back of the machine. “No! The other way!” So I turned the boarding pass around
and tried to stick the other end of it in the vent. Finally a third agent came
over, took my boarding pass, ripped the stub off, and handed it to me without
saying a word. So I made like I was going to stick the stub into the machine.
The blabbering leaning agent blabbered something else and I finally went into
the Jetway.
Flight attendants were all smiles but when
I entered I saw two empty seats so I went back. The fat blabbering leaning
agent scolded me. “You can’t keep boardin’ and de-boardin’ you know.” I ignored
her and asked the desk agent if I might have one of the empty First Class
seats. “People are already coming for those,” he said. “Are they 1K?” “They
paid for First.” I said oh OK and got back on the plane but soon after a
uniformed pilot came and took one of the seats. I wasn’t in the mood to wait
and see if it was a full lie or only a half lie so I went back to row 12.
Never having flown coach before in a
Shuttle, I didn’t realize that 12F was the plum of all plum seats, a window
with no seat in front of it. My seat opponents were a nice young couple from
San Luis Obispo, Calif., who had missed their connection to New Orleans because
of weather and were routed through Vegas with a 12-hour layover. Service in
Economy was exactly the same as service in First Class: one notch above
nonexistent. But the flight was on time and my butt could stand to be squeezed
for 42 minutes. I strode directly to Las Vegas Limousines and quickly got a
small Town Car to the MGM ($4 plus tip).
I found my way to the high-limit slot area
to play some video poker. There were only two of my favorite machines and one
guy was playing them both. He had a royal flush on one of them! He noticed me
and offered to cash out of one of them so I accepted. I noticed he was playing
very rapidly and with a lot of precision so I asked him to let me know if I
made any mistakes if he happened to be looking. He said he teaches all the time
but he’s not up for it today. Hmm. I was wondering who this guy was, because
there was a very well known guy who teaches video poker in Vegas. Sure enough!
It was Bob Dancer, whose name is on the excellent WinPoker program I had been
using to teach myself. We chatted for a while, I lost a bit, and then it was
time to go. I asked for a limo to the airport and had to pull teeth to get it.
MGM is the tightest with comps I’ve ever run across but they give
frequent-flyer miles.
The world’s nicest driver took me in a
gold stretch limo to the airport. I told him to just drop me in the middle and
I’d figure out what airline I was flying. United didn’t have a flight between
5:15 and 8:21 and frankly the 236 miles for the trip didn’t excite me so I
decided to go with the best carrier, National. The price was the same, $89.50.
I begged everyone once again for an upgrade but no dice. They wanted me to pay
$50, or $1.25/minute, so I passed. But I did get the catbird seat, 8D on the
757. I smiled once again at the First-Class stewards in their butler suits and
settled in for a nice flight. We waited on the ramp 45 minutes for LAX flow
control and then flew slowly home, arriving 20 minutes late at gate 61,
National’s only gate. I trotted to the car, paid $10 to get her out of hock,
and drove home to pick up Hunnybear for dinner.
We were meeting Paul at Trader Vic’s in
Beverly Hills. Paul was working for CNBC and I kept committing faux pas by
asking him how Larry King was doing and mentioning other celebrities that were
on other networks. I asked if he could introduce me to Soledad O’Brien, a
newscaster for MSNBC who’s on my list of five, but he didn’t know her either. Trader
Vic’s has the best rum drinks so Hunnybear and I shared a Scorpion Bowl. All
the appetizers were good—lettuce cups, Cho Cho beef, and spicy tuna roll—and
the BBQ New York Strip was perfect. As a rule I don’t eat dessert so everyone
else followed my lead. We said goodbye to Paul and we headed home to the
Marina.
I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, and
subscriptions, go to http://www.liontales.com
Three Bites for Seven Dollars
No longer fitting into either of the two
tuxedos I owned, I put together a makeshift one from black slacks and a black Jhane
Barnes jacket. I had a funky white dress shirt and a black bowtie but no clip-on
suspenders so I used the belt and slapped a cummerbund over it for camouflage.
Hunnybear drove me in the black Cabrio to Century City where I waited for
Barton to pick me up in the limousine.
Barton and Helen had thoughtfully stocked
the limo with wine and champagne in addition to the standard decanters of
liquor. Grant, Rhonda, and Nicole were already aboard so we just picked up
Richard, Brenda, and me and headed downtown. Rhonda was a TV actress herself,
having played the giggling shoe saleswoman in love with Al Bundy on Married with Children some years ago.
Barton, having directed a documentary that won three Emmys in his previous
life, was a member of the Academy and scored us the tickets.
Barry, our driver, weaved in and out of
lanes to get us to the front of the line at the Shrine Auditorium. It was not
quite 4 p.m. and the show didn’t start until five but they said they close the
doors at 4:30 so we hurried. We entered just to the left of the red-carpet area
where the celebrities come in, between two sizable stands for the crowds to
watch them enter. We saw Dennis Franz of NYPD
Blue come right up and talk to someone over the red velvet rope
separating us. Then the rope ended and we were right there, mixing with the
stars.
They closed the lobby bars just as we
arrived in an effort to get people seated but fortunately the bars were still
open on the second and third floors. Drinks were available for sale at the
usual prices and they had complimentary Red Bull, iced tea, and Evian. However,
if you just asked for bottled water you got the $3 Arrowhead rather than the
complimentary Evian. Unappetizing hors d’oeuvres were available at ridiculous
prices: $3 a bite or three bites for $7! But we didn’t come for the food. We
came for the spectacle!
The auditorium was well designed with
hardly a bad seat in the house. We had perfect lines of sight in the second
balcony and could even recognize some of the people sitting in the front row, our
friend Dennis Franz and The Sopranos
star James Gandolfini among them.
The three-hour ceremony itself was
probably better enjoyed on television than in person, especially since they
didn’t show the commercials to us, usually the most interesting part of the
show. But we didn’t care: we were dressed to the nines and mingling with the
beautiful people. Fortunately they kept the bar open the whole time. I went
down to the first-floor men’s room to see if I could stand next to somebody
famous but I didn’t recognize anyone. Finally it was over. We hustled down to
the lobby to stargaze as the nominees moved through the lobby to the Governor’s
ball. There we saw Jack Lemmon, one of the greats, who won an Emmy for Tuesdays with Morrie, and the two least
promiscuous girls from Sex in the City,
one of the only shows I’d watched in the last few years.
Our limo showed up and as we waited in traffic
Barton leaned out the window and got a Starbucks mint from the actor who play’s
Will’s boyfriend on Will and Grace.
Apparently waiting for limos is a good time to mix with stars. Some people just
rent a tux and go hang out pretending they’re waiting for a limo so they can
strike up conversations.
We tried to crash a few parties but were inadvertently
omitted from the guest lists, although we did see a young man with a replica
Emmy (with price tag still on the bottom) get into Morton’s with a good story.
Instead we headed to Mr. Chow’s, a small Beverly Hills Chinese eatery with
excellent food and service. We let the waiter order for us and really had only
a very few dishes before we cut him off. As a rule I don’t eat dessert and
everyone followed my lead. Richard grabbed the check before I could look at it
but I think it came to about $50 each including tip. They had a $25 minimum per
person!
The limo made the rounds and dropped us
all off after midnight. It was a memorable event for sure but underscored for
me the cardboard thinness of the façade of the television industry. It was an
event not designed to please its audience but rather designed for the audience
to please it, to concoct a spectacle for the world to believe. Host Garry
Shandling said not one word to us when the cameras were off, nor was there
entertainment of any form during the interminable commercial breaks. The most
interaction we had with the organizers of the event, other than being told were
to go, was the eternal lie of the live studio audience: the call for more and
more applause.
As always, though, the right company makes
for a great evening. Barton put together an all-star cast of characters for our
limo prowl through LA and it was a night none of us will soon forget. And we’ll
always be able to say we were there.
I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, and
subscriptions, go to http://www.liontales.com
[Note: yesterday’s
column was incorrectly sent out with the wrong subject line. It should have
read, “Free Friday at the W LA, part 1”—QL]
I get the vaunted invite
I was up early, writing and checking
email, when my cell phone rang. It was Barton asking if I fit into my tux
because he had an extra ticket to tomorrow’s Emmy Awards for me. I said I’d
make do some how, thanked him, and started jumping up and down whooping and
hollering to Hunnybear that I was going (without her) to the Emmys!
Later, after I had showered and bandaged
all my bleeding parts, it was time to check out. The video checkout didn’t work
so we called down to the valet to bring the Pontiac around and then checked out
with the supermodel at the front desk. There were no phantom charges so we just
left the drinks, Internet, and parking on the Sheraton Optima card and went
down the waterfall steps to the curb. I handed the ticket to the valet who
found my car parked at the curb and pulled it around to us. The doorman loaded
our luggage into the back so I gave him a couple bucks in plain view of the
valet and let them work out how to share it.
We stopped at the Coffee Bean in Westwood,
across the street from Starbucks, for some coffee. The bouncy coeds staffing
the small shop looked like they didn’t need any more coffee today. We verified
with them that their wares were superior to Starbucks (“oh for sure!”) and
noticed a sign on the wall saying that it was quicker for them to roast beans
than to have them shipped from Seattle. We are waiting for Tully’s to open in
LA.
We drove to LAX to pick up Hunnybear’s
brother Carl. The crazy weather has vanished and it was once again a perfect
day in paradise. We parked in the Terminal 2 lot and walked up and over the skybridge
to the gates. This was home to Northwest as well as Air Canada. It was a
depressing, run-down terminal with non-functioning video monitors. We finally
found a working one to tell us to wait at gate 21. The monitor continued to
show “on time” even when the flight finally arrived a half-hour late. We
scooped up Carl and headed home.
I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, and
subscriptions, go to http://www.liontales.com
Girls dorm heh heh
I picked Hunnybear up at work in the white
Pontiac convertible and we drove to Westwood to check into the W Los Angeles.
It was cool and a bit cloudy in Southern California. Last night there were a
couple scattered showers. We flipped on the TV and every channel had a special
report on the “crazy weather” and how to protect yourself and your loved ones
from this rain. And I thought Steve Martin was exaggerating in LA Story. These people go nuts if there
are a few drops! They wouldn’t last an hour in Seattle.
From the outside, the W looked like a
concrete college dormitory with a big W slapped onto it as we pulled up. In
fact it had originally been a UCLA girls dormitory. What memories these walls
must have had. A team of the classic W black-garbed valets greeted us as we
arrived. I asked how much the valet parking was and the first one didn’t know
but the second one said $10. Not bad. The steps up to the lobby had very cool
waterfalls underneath them. The lobby interior was likewise cool with standard
W fun plush furniture and a staggered checkin desk staffed by a team of starlets.
I picked the best-looking one to check us in and she gave us a suite on the 12th
floor (out of 16). I asked if it was the best available room and she said yes.
We waited a long time for the elevator and then went up to our suite.
The décor was much like other Ws—black
painted furniture, plush sofas and chairs, and black-framed black-and-white
prints—although somehow the Seattle one still seemed nicer. The bedroom had the
fabled Heavenly-like bed (an actual king), There was one closet in the bedroom
and one bathroom in the front room. A minibar was stocked full of munchies,
high-end liquors, and the trademark W “intimacy kit.” A Platinum amenity
awaited us: three crisp Granny Smith apples and a half-liter bottle of water
along with the standard printed note from the general manager. I hooked up the
high-speed Interned access ($9.95), an old hand by now, and gave my email a
quick check before we went down to try out the lobby bar. We waited at least
five minutes for the elevator. It felt like I was back at school again.
The lobby bar was decorated very much like
Whisky Blue in the W New York. Like the W New York, they had no signature drink
here, unlike Seattle’s W which had the fabled Emerald Drop, so Hunnybear
ordered a Lemon Drop while I felt like a Beefeater martini. Prices were pretty
high for LA, around $10 a drink, but they were big drinks. My martini tasted
funny so I ate all the olives and then brought it back to the bar. I told one
bartender about it but he said policy was that they couldn’t fix other
bartenders’ mistakes. My bartender was talking to the manager at the register
for about five minutes, both their backs turned. Finally I began waving my arms
and a third bartender came over and repaired the damage. Meanwhile Tony and
Judy had arrived and she made them a couple of drinks as well. Tony nearly
tripped on an uprooted carpet on the way back to the table. He alerted a
passing busboy about it but he just stepped on it for a few seconds and
wandered off leaving a lawsuit waiting to happen.
Dinner was at Tanino, an Italian
restaurant within walking distance. We got seated immediately at a table near
the front and ordered an expensive bottle of Barbaresco, my favorite Italian
wine. They had Gaja for $168 but we went with one under $100. When Gaja was
being discovered back in the early eighties I went around to every Safeway in
greater Seattle and bought up every bottle I could find for dirt cheap. Then I
quit drinking for a couple years and at some point sold all my wine at a garage
sale for like $5 a bottle. Somebody got a real good deal, but I wish I had kept
that Gaja.
For starters I had a yummy beef carpaccio
with “capers capers”—at least that’s what the menu said, and there were quite a
few of them, like Little Caesar’s Pizza Pizza. They only had one veal chop so
Tony and I split it and a beef chop. Both were fabulous. Hunnybear gave me a
few tastes of excellent John Dory and Judy had a vegetarian pasta. As a rule I
don’t eat dessert but Tony ordered three so I just had a few tastes. Dinner
came to about $70 each before tip, but $25 of that was the wine.
We walked back to the dorm and headed up
to bed. There was quite a bit of street and hall noise but we had no problem
sleeping.
I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, and subscriptions,
go to http://www.liontales.com
I’m National, fly me!
I awoke again without the aid of the three
alarms I had set and used the video checkout. Local calls were 85¢ for the
first hour. I hustled downstairs and waited out in front of the Westin, sitting
on a concrete fence in the refrigerated gloom. At 7:20 I caught the late 7:10
Gray Line bus. There was no traffic to the airport so we got there in good
time. I headed for the 1K room and chatted with the angel for a few minutes, then
dialed up and read email. I told her how I missed the Seattle 1K room, a warm,
welcoming place staffed by angels who want to do special favors for their best
customers. Other 1K rooms around the country would do well to take whatever
Seattle has and bottle it.
My 737 to Los Angeles boarded on time. I
had seat 1D because the bulkhead aisles were taken. My seat opponent ate a
fruit plate and then snored through the remainder of the flight. I ordered the
sampler, which was quite good: a rosemary-topped frittata, a wedge of croque monsieur (grilled ham and cheese sandwich),
sausage, and fruit. Oddly, we had blackberries, a Seattle specialty, on the way
up to Seattle but not on the flight catered in Seattle. Seattleites think
blackberries are a weed and hack them to death constantly. They grow at an
unbelievable rate, though, and quickly return. But boy are they delicious.
There was no video on the 737 of course so I whipped out my laptop and used the
time to write. Service was great and the stewardess kept my decaf and water
refilled.
We landed early at LAX so I went to the
Red Carpet Club and read FlyerTalk. The 12:15 connecting Shuttle to Las Vegas
boarded on time but quickly developed a problem with the pressure framitz so
they announced a half-hour delay. Mechanics came on board complaining about
their lack of a contract and slowly replaced a unit that looked like it had
nothing whatsoever to do with pressure. It didn’t solve the problem so I went
out to the gate and had them rebook me on the 1:30 National Airlines 757.
I begged both the United agent and the
National agent for First Class but the best offer I got was to pay $50 for the
upgrade. If the flight had been a bit longer I would have done it but for a
40-minute flight I didn’t think so. The United agent was super nice and even
filled out and mailed a form for me to request credit for the original flight.
I had thoughtfully pre-joined National Comps (great name for a Vegas-based
airline’s frequent-flyer program) and gave my number. Since they do points for
dollars spent I have no idea what I’ll get for this flight. The program didn’t
look attractive to me because you have to spend $8000/year to make elite and
that’s tough to do just flying from LA to Vegas.
The National 757 was generous in legroom
but stingy in width. I wouldn’t have liked to fly much farther than we did in
that seat, especially with a chattering fat couple next to me. First Class, on
the other hand, looked exquisite. They had row after row of natural tan leather
seats and stewards dressed in fancy butler uniforms. The Economy flight
attendants wore polo shirts. I thought the distinction was a great idea. They
had video screens but did the safety announcement live anyway. Apparently they
show movies on longer flights with a headset-rental charge in Economy. They
gave a typical drink service but they had real peanuts instead of Krap-Snax™.
We arrived early in Vegas and I dashed to
Las Vegas Limousines to get a ride to Mandalay Bay ($4). My aim this afternoon
was to break the bank at the progressive $2 Deuces Wild video poker machines,
but instead I got a major hoovering. I strolled over to the high-limit slot
area to play a few rounds of $5 Deuces Wild. Theoretically, with perfect play
and counting the cash back, the house has a very small advantage at these
machines (about 0.5%). When you count the value of comps you can break even if
you are really hard core about learning the optimal playing strategy, which of
course most people aren’t. It remained to be seen if I was or not, but it fell
under my general mission statement of finding ways to be treated like a VIP.
I met a nice slot host there who noticed
all the money I had lost playing the $2 machine and comped me to a gourmet meal
for my very first time, not including the comp to Drai’s that Arnie had
procured at Barbary Coast. I asked for Red Square, one of several fabulous
restaurants at Mandalay Bay. No problem.
I played Pai Gow Poker for an hour before
dinner and made $22.50.
I cashed in my meager chips and walked
over to Red Square. “VIP table for one, please,” I said. “I have a comp
reservation.” Once again service and food were excellent. A short curvy
brunette in a cat suit with a small red square on the chest brought over some
bread but I waved it off with a smile. “As a rule I don’t eat bread,” I said. I
ordered the lobster martini appetizer ($19), which I didn’t get last time
because it wasn’t free, and the Roquefort New York steak. Both were superb,
although I had to request extra mustard remoulade for the lobster. It arrived
quite sparsely sauced, which is more than I can say for myself, having drowned
my sorrows in a Manhattan at the Pai Gow Poker table and then ordered a couple
of specialty vodkas here at Red Square. I started with the waitress’s
recommendation, the Scottish vodka Brilliant, which lived up to its name. Then
I returned to my favorite from last time, Charodei, from Russia. It was still
great. They had the chocolate indulgence but I passed since as a rule I don’t
eat dessert and I was at the top of my comp limit anyway.
I signed the bill, left a cash tip, got my
luggage out of hock, and asked the bellman to call the casino host and order me
a limo to the airport. I should have reserved it in advance but I’m still
learning from the Master. It took a couple minutes to approve it but soon I was
on my way. I asked the driver to take me to the zero level so I could go
directly to the gate. I didn’t have a five so I tipped him $10 and I had a new
best friend.
I stopped by the Prickly Pear for a frozen
Patron margarita and then lost another $60 at my traditional video-poker machine.
It was finally time to board the Shuttle home to LA for the last leg of this
journey. I had seat 1D on the 737 and sat next to another 1K, a retired
executive from TRW who now consulted on government contracts. The flight was
quick and we landed 15 minutes early! Hunnybear was nevertheless waiting for me
at the secret place and whisked me home through the beautiful moist California
night. I was glad to be home.
I woke up in my Tropicana penthouse
relatively painlessly a few minutes before four and hopped in the shower. The
water pressure was terrible and they had one of those gizmos hooked up to it to
make the water come out faster by adding air to it. It was still terrible. Not
a bad room though and a great view. Maybe the water pressure was better on
lower floors.
I had some time before checkout so I
decided to play some $5 video poker. I hit five of a kind and broke the bank
for a $250 profit. I did great this trip in video poker but terrible at the Pai
Gow Poker table. I went to check out and that short stint at the $5 machine had
credited me with another $19 in comps so the room only ended up costing $40 for
the two nights. I probably earned a few more dollars in cashback too but I
didn’t have time to check.
I grabbed a taxi to the airport ($8
including tip) and found a zoo at the United checkin. I guessed a lot of people
were flying back early to go to work after the holiday weekend. I waited a few
minutes in the First Class/Premier line and checked in with the agent who asked
for two 500-mile certs for the LA-Seattle portion. On my way to the gate I
played a little Monopoly and hit two bonus rounds for a $75 profit. My flight
was boarding as I got to the gate so I didn’t play any Deuces Wild on my
traditional machine but instead wheeled down the Jetway and settled into 1D on
the 737 Shuttle. The early-morning desert scenery was utterly spectacular! I
enjoyed the flight and as usual the flight attendants on this particular run
were friendly and helpful.
We landed on the south side of LAX for a
change, which meant we didn’t have to taxi forever to get to gate 85. I had a
little time so I checked email in the Red Carpet Club but I passed on the
biscotti because I was feeling good after low-carbing yesterday. The 757 to
Seattle was at gate 68A, far away, and by the time I got there they were
boarding all rows so I turned left and took seat 1B. There was just enough room
left in the overhead bins to place my stuff.
Service was good. The video program was
the same one Hunnybear and I saw on the ill-fated flight 1111 on Sunday
including the horrible That ’70s Show
which I didn’t watch again but instead fired up my Toshiba laptop and wrote.
Breakfast was a choice of fruit plate or sampler. I took the latter, which had
a spinach-polenta concoction, a sausage, home fries, and two silver-dollar
pancakes. It was a little too high-carb for my pleasure but tasted good.
We vectored farther north than usual
landing in Seattle and turned final over Ballard. It was overcast and 60. The
North Satellite subway was under construction and I weaved my way through
obstacles heading for the escalators. I decided to take the Gray Line bus to
the Westin ($14 round trip) rather than $60 worth of taxis. When the bus
stopped at the Four Seasons Olympic I decided to walk the rest of the way just
to stretch my legs. It was only five blocks to the Westin and I was on wheels
so I enjoyed the cool moist air.
I went in the back entrance to the Westin
and headed for the incredibly opulent private Starwood Preferred Guest checkin,
a private marble room with a private clerk, an attractive blonde German girl.
She had me upgraded to the Preferred Guest floor but I asked if any suites were
available. She checked for me and found a suite that could be made up of
adjoining rooms on the 19th floor but told me the view was poor. I
decided to try it anyway. Unfortunately, although the two rooms were adjoining,
they were not adjoining each other but instead the two rooms on either side of
them. So I went back down and instead asked if any guest offices were available
since I wanted to print something out from my laptop. She found me one with a
city view on the 23rd floor so I took it. It was very nice and the view
was OK but the Lake Union and Puget Sound views are nicer. I didn’t really care
too much so I unpacked and got ready to head out. No Platinum amenity this trip
but I may have faked them out with the room switch.
I needed to get to the new ballpark where
the Microsoft 25th anniversary celebration was being held so I
walked to First Avenue and then turned south. At each bus stop I looked up the
street and saw no buses in sight so I kept walking. I got all the way to
Pioneer Square before a bus came so I took it the last two stops to the
ballpark. Buses in downtown Seattle are free during the daytime but they don’t
run with enough frequency to be a dependable form of transportation.
The celebration and party were nostalgic
and reassuring for me. Bill Gates gave a great speech recounting the history of
the company and then gave a glimpse into the future showing a very cool demo of
the forthcoming XBox video-game unit and reiterating that he was betting the
company on the .NET architecture. Traditionally, every year at the company
meeting Bill promises that the company will continue to give its employees free
Coke forever. He showed a chart that indicated Microsoft spent more money on
free Coke last year than total revenues were when I started with the company in
1981. I sat up in the Mariners owners box with old friends for awhile and
caught up with others of the first 100 employees, many of whom were still
there. Comedian Sinbad did a hilarious routine lampooning the corporate
culture. I didn’t stay for Cheap Trick but instead headed back to the Westin to
see Kevin and a very pregnant Lara.
We had the concierge make reservations at
Icon Grill for us and had drinks in the lobby bar while we caught up. Icon
Grill was great as always. They served a complimentary salmon-cake appetizer
because the Westin concierge made the reservation for us. I had the New York
Steak, which arrived way overcooked but was quickly replaced with a rare one.
As a rule I don’t eat dessert but they had a hot-fudge sundae to die for so we
split just one. Roni arrived in time for dessert and helped us out but we still
didn’t come close to finishing. The thing must be made with a quart of ice
cream. With a very reasonably priced bottle of my favorite wine, the
Willakenzie Pierre Leon Pinot Noir (Oregon) for $52, the bill came to under
$170 for the three of us.
Kevin and Lara had a long ferry ride and
drive home so we bid them farewell and Roni helped me walk my dinner off before
she headed back home. I went up, set three alarms for 7 a.m., and had as
Heavenly a sleep as can be expected minus one Hunnybear.
Dawn from the 22nd floor of the
Tropicana was a stunning pastiche of mountain, shadow, and black pyramid.
Hunnybear had made haircut appointments for the both of us at Bally’s for 10
a.m. so we walked there in the perfect morning air, stopping at Starbucks for a
mild blend and at the new Aladdin to poke our heads into the casino. Hunnybear
thought it was well done and it was quite a bit nicer without the crowds there.
I bet the Aladdin management doesn’t think so though.
Our two stylists were waiting for us but
the price had gone up because of the high cost of prices. We proceeded with our
haircuts anyway. Naturally I finished first so I went up and played a couple
hands of Pai Gow Poker to no avail. Hunnybear snuck up from behind and gave me
a bear hug so I cashed out and we walked through the passageway to Paris for an
early lunch.
The plan was to have lunch at Mon Ami
Gabi, which Arnie the Compmeister recommended highly although he failed to tell
me how to eat there without paying for it. We had to wait 15 minutes for it to
open so we played some Chairman of the Board Monopoly. Hunnybear hit the bonus
game for the first time and had an incredible run, hitting property after
property. Since she didn’t know what to expect she had no idea that she was
doing so well, collecting several monopolies and cashing out for $69 on her $5
investment.
We got in line and when the restaurant
opened at 11:30 got seated right on the rail overlooking the Strip and
Bellagio. A French deliveryman on a bicycle rode by and called up to us, “Bonjour, mes ami!” Hey, wazzup? We both
had the brie omelet which was very good and came with a baguette and two
triangles of perfectly buttered toast. The baguette for some reason was served
with shredded carrots, which Hunnybear liked but I though tasted like orange dirt.
At noon the gorgeous Bellagio fountain show fired up, accompanied by Copeland’s
“Variations on a Shaker Melody.” (“’Tis a gift to be simple”). We had a great
view through the palm trees in the median of the Strip. Lunch came to under $25
for the two of us. Sorry, Arnie.
We walked back to Tropicana to play some
Pai Gow Poker but they had the stupid rule that only lets a player bank once
every six hands so we went to play video poker instead. It was just as well
because it was the only thing I could win at this trip. I hit a wild royal and
cashed out for a modest profit.
It was time to hit swim-up blackjack, the
reason we stayed at the Trop. Today was the last day of the season it would be
open. We changed into our bathing costumes and headed down to the beautiful
pool, certainly the jewel of the hotel. The stakes were higher than usual
because it was a holiday weekend. One table was $5-$25 and the other was
$3-$25, both played with what appeared to be eight-desk shoes with about 70%
penetration. I started off small and couldn’t hit anything. Then I bet the
maximum for a few hands and continued getting hoovered. I sipped my free $200
margarita while Hunnybear enjoyed a Gilligan’s Island, made with Malibu rum,
pineapple juice, and cranberry juice. When we had been beaten badly enough we
dried off and went upstairs.
I wanted to play some serious Pai Gow
Poker so we went to MGM Grand to try to get a good game together. Hunnybear
went off to play Monopoly while I continued getting the vacuum treatment. I had
had enough so we crossed the skybridge back to the Trop, changed into our nice
clothes, packed up Hunnybear’s things, and took the Excalibur tram over to
Mandalay Bay to play a little more before dinner. No luck. I dropped some more
and declared my unconditional surrender as it was time for our early
reservations at Rumjungle.
Rumjungle spells their name with a
lower-case “r” but I think that’s affected so I don’t. As we approached, two
attractive girls in ankle-length black coats trimmed with faux snow-leopard fur
greeted us. We got a primo table by one of the waterfalls. Service was
excellent. The manager came by several times to ask how we were doing and even
cleared a plate himself. I ordered the signature fire pit dinner, similar to
the churrascaria we had had in New York Friday night. Waiters came by with meat
on skewers and dished out all I could eat, which in this case was one helping
of everything. The pork and chicken were best. Hunnybear ordered a coconut-curry
beef satay appetizer that was out of this world and a Hawaiian Caesar salad.
Next time I’ll try some of the other intriguing dishes instead of the fire pit.
After dinner the place turns into a nightclub and at 11 there is a show with
flaming stuff. A receipt from dinner gets you into the VIP line for the club.
By now it was time to send Hunnybear to
the airport for her five-star United Shuttle flight home so we retrieved her
bags from the bell desk and I put her into a cab, telling the driver to take
this precious package to United Airlines. I stayed in Vegas to get the first
flight out to Seattle in the morning.
It was only 7:30 so I thought I’d try the
Pai Gow at MGM Grand again so I walked over and tried to find a good game. I
played for a good three hours but couldn’t put anything together. I decided to
go back home to the Trop to play another half-hour of video poker before my
double-cashback bonus expired. I hit a five-of-a-kind and a wild royal one
after the other and cashed out up a couple hundred. I got a generous cashback
bonus and my first room might comped so that added almost another couple
hundred in value to eat into my Pai Gow Poker losses. Late, I went up to bed
and told the wake-up-call-o-matic to ring me at (ouch) 4 a.m.
I used the video checkout to pay the
incidentals for our Free Friday and Saturday as the W had already checked me
out and in again from the first two nights prepaid on Expedia. We got a $2/night
“suite tax” tacked on to pay for the great public services in the City of New
York. We went down in front and the black-T-shirted doorman offered us a
limousine to LaGuardia for $35, which we took in preference to the
ever-more-cramped New York taxis. We climbed in and I said, “La Guardia
airport, driver, and step on it!” Tires squealed and Hunnybear and I were
thrown against the side as the car accelerated around the corner. “I was just
kidding!” I screamed. Geez. I say that all the time but it never had any effect
till now. The driver took us via the Queensboro Bridge and got us there in 15
minutes in light traffic.
There was no line anywhere to be seen at
the United counter so we checked in at the regular checkin hoping our certs
would not be collected. The hope was in vain although the agent was pleasant
enough. We went around back to the Red Carpet Room and waited for our flight.
The soft drinks here were those little tiny cans that you get in Europe. In
fact, the Diet Coke was called Coke Light. Snacks here were a choice of red
apples or black Oreos. While I was there I asked the angel to move exactly the
same flight I had asked the 1K desk to move for me the other day and been
refused. She moved it with no problem and no charge, reminding me that United
had waived the $75 change fee for the rest of September. I thanked her and got
my new itineraries printed out.
We headed up to gate C10 to board the 727
in time to hear the smashing of ice. We had seats 1A and B, my favorite.
Sitting behind us were two people marked on the manifest as VIPs. I snuck a
look and it turned out the guy was chairman of a company bearing his name. I
guess they must buy a lot of tickets. Service was excellent. It was a 90-minute
flight but had a menu and full lunch. We had a choice of steak or turkey for
our entrée and we both chose the steak, which arrived medium well. Dessert was
Eli’s praline cheesecake but I passed since as a rule I don’t eat dessert and
besides I don’t like cheesecake. Hunnybear ate hers though. The flight arrived
in Chicago early, which didn’t help us because we had a long connection. It
docked at gate E2, about a mile from our next flight which was at C21. We made
the trek and then settled in the Terminal C Red Carpet Club right next to the
747 about to leave for Frankfurt at gate C18.
Flight 1111 was a 757 with the old leather
seats but fitted with Empower ports except they weren’t turned on. Hunnybear
and I turned left and settled into seats 1A and B. It was a very light flight
with several empties in First Class and almost no one in Economy Plus. The
flight attendants were exceptionally nice. One saw me about to hang up my coat
and wouldn’t hear of it so she hung it up herself. We sat in a huge queue and
then finally took off. I was waiting for the seatbelt sign to go off so I could
ask for the Empower to be turned on when I heard over channel 9, “United 1111,
we need to return to Chicago.” “Uh, roger, right turn or left turn?” “Uh, right
turn.” Then the captain’s voice same over the PA system. There was a fault
light on for the spoiler. They gave him a procedure for fixing it but it came
on again. He didn’t want to stare at that light for three hours in the air to
Vegas so he decided to return to Chicago.
The atmosphere was a little tense. Since
the pilot did not declare an emergency or ask for special assistance at ORD I
assumed things were in good shape. The landing felt a little fast but that
might have just been imagination. We taxied to gate B7 where we were told to
turn right and head for B3, where another plane awaited us. We did that. The
posted departure time was 6:10, a two-hour-and-forty-five-minute delay from our
original schedule.
The replacement was another 757 with
leather seats but no Empower. We boarded quickly through door 1 and waited while
the food and baggage were transferred. The stewardess told me that First Class
would be getting all new food but coach was OK because it was all refrigerated.
We once again sat in line to take off but finally did. Since it was a different
airplane I think everybody was pretty relaxed. They showed the movie, Love and Basketball by Spike Lee, soon
after take off. Hunnybear and I both liked it a lot. It was very romantic and
realistic. This was a snack flight so we got a single-page menu with a choice
of ribs and chicken. I had the ribs, which was actually one very good rib.
Hunnybear enjoyed the chicken. A steward walked through the aisle passing out
$25 vouchers for our trouble.
We landed 2:45 late, not surprisingly, and
took the tram to the main terminal where we headed straight to Las Vegas Limo
for a $4/person ride to the Tropicana. We shared a car with a couple going to
Circus Circus and a kvetchy lady laden with lots of baggage going to her home.
The driver took the tunnel, I suppose to avoid arriving at the Tropicana on the
wrong side of the street. There was a lot of traffic this holiday weekend. We
checked in with no line but all the great views north up the Strip were gone so
we settled for a top-floor room with a great view of Excalibur, Luxor, and
Mandalay Bay. Two negatives about this hotel: no feather pillows and outrageous
local phone charges of 15¢/min. after the first half hour for $1.
We walked around the hotel and I showed
Hunnybear the excellent pool where we would be playing swim-up blackjack
tomorrow. It was the reason we stayed here. We walked across the street to MGM
Grand and had something to eat at Emeril’s. We shared a half-dozen Washington
State oysters and a pound of spicy shrimp. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but
Emeril’s has a very delicious banana cream pie so we split just one piece.
Dinner came to $50 or so for the excellent food. We walked over to the lion
habitat and looked at the cubs sleeping above us on the Plexiglas, then we
headed back to the Trop. We both joined the Winners Club and they were having a
special double cashback bonus so I played a half-hour of video poker, losing
$100 but qualifying for a free T-shirt. Tired after a long day, we went up to
bed around midnight.
We did some shopping on Fifth Ave. before
lunch. The St. John’s store had a nice little bar set up with Perrier and
cookies so we camped out there for awhile then headed over to Elizabeth Arden’s
Red Door but her cookies weren’t as good so we jumped in a cab and headed
downtown. We ended up at Soho Kitchen, where we had some yummy hummus. We kept
ordering cucumbers and the waiter kept bringing celery. There didn’t seem to be
any way to resolve the paradox so we peered out over the piles of celery and
ordered a couple grilled-chicken salads for the girls, which arrived with at
least four chicken breasts apiece. I had Oriental chicken which was good but
the hummus was expanding in my stomach and I needed exercise.
After lunch we walked around the Bowery
and shopped for light bulbs, then made it over to the handbag district so
Hunnybear and Teresa could each get a few new purses. They made some lovely
selections and then we strolled over to Mulberry St. where the street had been
closed off to form a pedestrian mall. Hunnybear and I wanted some major
exercise to compensate for our gustatory excesses so we walked the three miles
back to the hotel up Third Ave. while Jeffrey and Teresa took a cab. We cleaned
up and headed over to the Marriott Marquis, where we met Catman and Michael for
pre-theater drinks.
The show tonight was The Music Man, one of the greatest shows
ever written and immortalized in the perfect movie version starring Robert
Preston and Richie Cunningham. There wasn’t much they could do to improve on
the movie, which I would recommend in preference to seeing this production—not
that it was bad, but it was merely a good performance of a great show. As
always the orchestra was flawless. The lead, played by Craig Bierko, was a
clone of Preston’s Harold Hill, and the voice of Rebecca Luker as Marian the
librarian was superb, although acting-wise she didn’t come close to Shirley
Jones’s classic portrayal of the guarded, innocent beauty. Other than that, the casting suffered from
mediocrity. No one came close to Buddy Hackett’s memorable Marcellus Washburn
and most of the children were played by actors five or 10 years older than
their supposed characters. We had third-row seats but upgraded ourselves to the
leftmost seats in the front row when no theater employees arrives to fill them.
After the show we took cabs to Smith &
Wollensky, where we met RichG and looked for our waiter friend Jerry. The main
dining room was closed and Jerry was done for the night but we got a table at
the Grill around the corner and had some OK steaks served by a fairly
incompetent waiter. After trying the location in Chicago and this one it will
probably be awhile before I go back. We bid everyone goodbye, walked the short
block to the W and settled in for the evening.
I checked my email and found a message
from Microsoft. Apparently they were inviting me to a big 25th-anniversary
party up in Seattle on Tuesday because they were honoring their first 100
employees, which I was one of. They apologized for the late notice. It was
pretty darn late but I booked a full-fare ticket from Vegas to Seattle for $328
and extended my Vegas stay overnight Monday because it was $200 cheaper than
the full fare from LA. I called United to switch my return from Vegas to
Wednesday but they gave me a song and dance about rules and regulations so I
thanked the agent for the information and hung up. I guess the flexibility they
were showing during the labor troubles has evaporated.
I went down to the front desk at the W New
York once more to see if they had any better rooms available. They did have
another corner suite with a different layout but the same small bed and a
strong smell of chlorine throughout the entire floor so I passed. I walked a
few blocks to 53rd St. and met Jeffrey and Teresa for lunch at
Brasserie, a former 24-hour restaurant now converted into a trendy French
place. A video camera took snapshots of everyone who enters and rotated their
images into a bank of monitors over the bar. I had tuna salad Niçoise, which
was great except that I expected the tuna to be rare and it was cooked
traditionally. We met two of Jeffrey’s friends from the National Speakers
Association there and they gave us tips on shows as it was their policy to see
everything. The waitress stared me right in my bloated face and asked if I
wanted dessert. I asked if she had any heroin. She said she didn’t personally
and I allowed as how it might be possible to inject the dessert directly into
my veins then.
We settled on Saturday Night Fever as the last-minute show for tonight and
headed to the concierge at the Waldorf-Astoria Hilton to get tickets. We waited
for her to get off the phone and she referred us to the theater desk. They
offered us second row mezzanine for $139/ticket and we passed because we like
to sit up close in the orchestra. Jeffrey called a scalper friend who came
through for us with seventh row center but when I got back to the room I
checked Ticketmaster on line and found that eighth row center was available at
face value. I didn’t realize last-minute tickets were available through
Ticketmaster so it’s good to know.
Jeffrey and I went for a walk to
ameliorate our conditions. We walked uptown on Park Ave. but it didn’t go to
the park so we turned left and found it around 5th Ave. Bottled
water cost 50¢ more near the park than it did downtown—we paid $1.50 each. My
cell phone rang and it was Hunnybear arriving safely at JFK. The limo I had
reserved through my Starwood Platinum Concierge was there waiting for her with
a beautiful new black Town Car. We finished our walk and Hunnybear arrived at
the W. The limo driver said my card was declined so I called American Express
and they said it wasn’t declined but rather the merchant had rescinded the
purchase. So I gave the driver my card again so he could run it through but he
dropped the imprinting machine and my card fluttered to the ground, teetering
precariously on a subway grate like the one Marilyn Monroe stood over in The Seven Year Itch. I tried to grab it
but he beat me too it and fortunately didn’t lose it.
The bathrobe I had ordered earlier still
hadn’t come four hours later so I called three more times and it came in 45
minutes. I called the general manager but got voice mail and let him know about
the problems with the hotel. Hunnybear took one look at the bed and said,
“That’s not a queen!” I didn’t think so. The girl at the front desk said it was
an “East Coast” queen, which was six inches shorter and narrower than we were
used to. Hunnybear said she was from the East Coast and she’d never heard of
that. Come to think of it, I was from the East Coast too.
Just then Catman appeared so we went down
the steps to the lobby lounge but all the seats were taken so we stood around
vulching. The attractive wait staff pointedly ignored us until we glommed seats
but then a blonde in black zoomed over to us and took our orders within
seconds. LarryU came by and joined us and gave us some tips for flying out of
JFK. He invited us to meet him for a party in the Red Carpet Club the next
morning but we all passed.
We headed over to Times Square for the
show and left Catman and LarryU to their dinner at Sparks. We arrived with
plenty of time so we decided to have another drink at the rotating lobby bar at
the Marriott Marquis. We braved the man-eating elevators and had no trouble
finding a table. I grabbed one at the start of the view arc and Jeffrey asked
if we shouldn’t look for one with a better view, not realizing we were on a
turntable. I assured him the view would improve and in fact, with a 45-minute
rotation time it would be just time to go to the theater when we got to the end
of the view. We drank and watched the billboards as we were carried around one
of the most amazing places in the world.
We headed across 45th St. to
the Minskoff Theater and took our excellent seats, right in the center. I was
expecting a nice show but was blown away by the opening number, “Stayin’
Alive.” It helps a new show to have some of the best music of a decade as the
score. The play was pretty faithful to the movie and the choreography could not
have been better. The single-named Orfeh, playing Annette, had an amazing voice
and when she belted out “If I Can’t Have You” the audience let out an audible
sigh. A large cast of dancers and beautiful sets complete with cars traveling
the George Washington Bridge at night made this a joy to watch from start to
finish despite the show’s tragic ending. Highly recommended to any Bee Gees fans.
It was raining as we exited the show but
we walked the few blocks to 49th St. and turned left to reach
Churrascaria Plataforma. Having been here before we remembered the optimal
strategy for eating at this Brazilian barbecue where the waiters come around
with roasted meat on swords, carving it onto your plate until you cry “Tio”!
The secret is to ignore the huge buffet in the middle and eat only the sirloin
with maybe a little lamb if you like that, and the fried bananas they bring to
the table. Our waiter pooh-poohed the Duck Pond Oregon Pinot Noir I tried to
order and instead had us get a delicious Chilean Cabernet. After dinner they
came around with the dessert cart. I passed of course but had a few tastes of
Hunnybear’s tiramisu and Teresa’s chocolate mousse, both yummy.
By the time we finished the rain had
subsided and we walked the mile or so back to the W.
I went down to the front desk at the W New
York to ask if they had any bigger suites, maybe one with a queen-size bed in
it. On the way I noticed stains in the carpeting. The air conditioning in the
room wasn’t very good and even on the coldest setting it was a bit hot and
muggy. The mirror was missing in the half-bath in the front room of the suite
leaving circles of adhesive covering the wall where it once was. This was
clearly not the nicest hotel in the W chain.
The front desk told me that I actually had
a queen bed although I had a queen bed at home—the same brand in fact—and this
one seemed smaller. They also told me there was high-speed Internet access in
the room so I asked them to send up a cable as the phone lines weren’t very
amenable to data. It never arrived and later that afternoon I had to call
again.
I walked all the way to Javits Center at
39th and 11th just to get some exercise. When I got there
I was sweating prodigiously. New York at 80 degrees seemed hotter than Vegas at
100. I checked in at the press room and got my badge, passing a life-sized
poster of Jeffrey on the way. Some of the exhibitors at the trade show were
luring attendees to their booths by offering snacks. I passed on the
chocolate-chip cookies since as a rule I don’t eat dessert, but I sampled a
piña colada smoothie that was very good. We spent the afternoon schmoozing and
then walked to 9th Avenue to catch a taxi downtown.
As we stood just past the entrance to the
Lincoln Tunnel a cab without his sign lit slowed, rolled down his window, and
asked where we were going. We told him and he told us to hop in. This was the
smallest cab I’ve ever been in. I’m not quite 5' 10" but my knees were
pressed hard against the dividing panel. From the instant we started the guy
never shut up. He swore, swerved to hit potholes, and complained incessantly
that we were going to cause him to miss a 3:10 fare at the Javits Center. We
began to goad him on, telling him he was going a stupid way and he should have
cut across on 22nd St. When we arrived he turned the meter off two
blocks from our destination. It read $8. I was going to give him $10 but
Jeffrey insisted that he be rewarded with at least $12 so I gave him a $4 tip.
He yelled, “Come on, just pay me, I’m late!” took the money and sped off.
Lunch was at the famous Katz’s deli, where
Harry met Sally. This place was a real New York Institution but, to paraphrase
Woody Allen, who wants to eat in an institution? We didn’t see any actual
cockroaches but they would have been right at home here. When I finally got
waited on in the Byzantine cafeteria line, after being cut in on by half a
dozen people, I watched the unsmiling counterman make my Reuben. The meat was
first-rate but the rye bread was more like Wonder bread. They put a little
taste of what I was ordering up on the counter for me to munch on while I
waited, right next to a cup with dollars sticking out for tips. I got a Katz’s
brand bottle of water, which was so poorly manufactured that it was impossible
to open it without spilling it everywhere. When we went in they gave everyone a
ticket, on which the counterman wrote our orders so we could pay on the way out
(cash only). If you lost your ticket it was like a parking garage, you pay for
30 days worth of food or something. The sandwich was only $11.40 plus tax.
We took a much saner cab ride back to the
hotels and I caught up on email and FlyerTalk before dinner. We met under the
clock at the Waldorf and Michael arrived right on time so we walked over to
Maloney & Porcelli to cash in the rain check on free booze from last night.
Our friend took care of us and brought a free bottle of wine as well as a
goat-cheese pizza. I was still stuffed from doing nothing but eat my whole life
so I just had a few Bluepoint oysters. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but I had
a few bites of Teresa’s coconut cake which was excellent. We just loved our
maitre d’ so when we found out he waited tables at Smith & Wollensky’s on
weekends we decided to go there after the show on Saturday. This guy turned a
potential problem into three
meals.
After dinner we headed to Brooklyn to hang
out with Howard Bloom, whose new book Global
Brain had just come out. He never leaves his apartment, which is kind of an
intellectual salon these days, so we talked about everything for a couple hours
and then took a car service back to midtown. Jeffrey was tired because he’s old
but Michael and I had a drink in the lobby lounge. Then Michael went home. I
had planned to get one more Manhattan for the road but I got involved chatting
with a bicoastal couple about the Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey, which I have a
view of from my apartment, and one thing led to another. Soon we were joined by
Joe, a young, buff, tattooed Italian kid who was there with his cousin
celebrating his signing the rights to his life story to a book and movie deal.
He was a Wall Street broker who was being extorted by the Mafia. Joe found out
the male half of the bicoastal couple was turning 30 next week so he ordered a
birthday cheesecake and I had just one piece. I kept looking around in case any
wiseguys came in and gunned us all down but they didn’t so we just had three or
four more rounds and closed the place down around three.
Jeffrey and I had some business in New
York so I booked a flight down to coincide with a trade show he was speaking
at. This was my first use of the Vegas trick: frequently a flight from LA
through Vegas to the East Coast is cheaper than a nonstop flight. In this case
I saved $100 or so. When the United labor troubles were in full swing a kind
United angel offered to switch my convoluted itinerary to the nonstop so I
wouldn’t get stuck so I was now booked on the first flight out to JFK, flight
10. Hunnybear drove me half-asleep in her shiny black Cabrio to Terminal 7
where I went through secret security and headed for the 1K room to check in.
As usual the ladies there were cordial but
did me no special favors. My agent collected a North American upgrade cert and
laughed when I asked about a double upgrade. “Can’t your company buy you a
business-class ticket?” she asked. “Well, since I’m my company, I don’t think
so.” I asked her if she knew what the fare difference was. They just don’t get
it. I wheeled over to gate 75 and asked again about a double upgrade but the
agent said they would have to give a reason. I suggested how about “being nice”
but apparently that didn’t fly. Meanwhile I saw the other agent upgrading a
young woman whom I’m guessing was an employee or relative to First Class. I
asked about switching my seat to 10F or 11F, seeing as how I’d already see Where the Money Is twice before, but they
were already taken.
I reluctantly went on board the aging
767-200 and took my seat 5C, the middle bulkhead with a good view of the movie.
This aircraft had very old seats, which were wider and therefore more
comfortable than the newer ones. I asked an older German stewardess about
moving into one of the empty seats and she went and asked the gate agent who
said no. “Only for employees, eh?” I said. She replied that no, they like to
keep it to a maximum of 50% employees, or was it 75%? Anyway, she said, that’s
one of their few perks. Nice perk.
I moved over to 5A since I didn’t want to
watch the movie ant I was the only one in the whole row. I spent the entire
flight looking at the two empty seats in F and thinking about other airlines I
could fly. It’s amazing how much goodwill United burns with this policy. If
American came out tomorrow and said “Top elites get the best available seat on
all flights,” I’d think seriously about jumping ship.
They had complimentary newspapers on this
flight, the same ones they can’t seem to keep stocked in the Red Carpet Club
because the customers keep taking them. I was offered water or orange juice
before takeoff and took a water and asked for a decaf, which I got.
We took off on time. The stewardess
brought around biscotti (that and the newspapers are the only advantage in Business Class on this
“premium” flight over the normal two-class F service) and menus. Choices for
breakfast were quiche, French toast, or fruit plate. I chose the quiche, being
the least carbo-bomb of the three. It arrived dry and overdone with a rubbery
crust. They didn’t start the movie for an hour after takeoff. Why? After the
movie was a good episode of Frasier
followed by some Discovery Channel shows. An hour and 45 minutes before landing
they brought around the second meal, a deli plate. They’ve now removed all the
expensive elements of the deli cart that they serve in F, including roast beef,
salmon, and shrimp. What was left looked like Oscar-Meyer Luncheon Pak.
Amusingly, the menu specified “choice of” mustard or mayonnaise but they
actually brought both, in little plastic tubs right next to the paper tubes of
salt and pepper. There was a miniature box of excellent Godiva chocolates on
the tray. I had half a glass of a nice Médoc with lunch.
We landed a few minutes early despite the
pilot’s earlier warning that flight time would be longer than usual. The purser
wished us well and actually didn’t repeat the usual inane “wherever your final
destination may take you” and said instead, “wherever your travel plans may
take you,” which makes a lot more sense. My destination doesn’t take me
anywhere—I have to go to it.
I had neglected to arrange a limo to town
but fortunately the taxi line was not too long. A nice young man zoomed me
toward the City. Construction on the new Skytrain to JFK was going along well
with concrete pillars all along the Van Wyck Expressway. There was no traffic
at all until we hit town but then we sat in cross-town traffic for 15 minutes.
We were about to make a left turn from the second lane to get to the W but the
driver saw a cop giving a taxi a ticket for doing just that so he asked me if I
wouldn’t mind going up another two blocks. Since it was a flat fare I didn’t
mind.
Two events were going on: the US Open
Tennis Championship, which apparently had some people staying at the W because
there was an official marked van parked in front, and a Millennium Peace
Conference across the street at the Waldorf-Astoria. I was hoping Anna
Kournikova would be staying at the W since she was on my list of five. I looked
around the bar for her but then I realized she was too young to drink in the
land of the free. In Russia they wean them with Vodka.
A pleasant young doorman dressed in black
wheeled my luggage into the hotel for me. The W lobby was very attractive in
daytime, a light and sweeping space with the bar and lounge area to the right
and their famous club Whisky Blue off to the left. I was expecting the snooty
front-desk experience that so many had reported. Imagine my surprise when four
attractive young desk clerks dressed in black T-shirts all smiled broadly and
made eye contact with me as I arrived. I picked the short curvy brunette,
Alicia, and gave her my name and credit card. “Hmm,” she said. “We have you in
a corner suite, Mr. Lion, but I apologize that your room won’t be read for a
couple of minutes. Why don’t you have a drink at the bar on the house while you
wait?” I was stunned. What a superb experience! Clearly somebody at Starwood
had been reading Jeffrey Gitomer’s book, which is not surprising since I sent
them all copies. I went to the bar and ordered a Manhattan from the nice
bartender.
In a few minutes Alicia came over to bring
me my room key. I complimented her on the experience and she beamed. I finished
my drink then went up to my room. The signage in the halls was minimal and it was
difficult to find the room. I ended up having to go down a short flight of
stairs to get there. I did indeed have a suite: two tiny rooms with a full-size
(not queen) bed and 1.5 small bathrooms but a cool floor-level shower with
swivel head. The walls were painted cream with a ring of green leaves stenciled
12 inches below the ceiling. There was no high-speed Internet access.
I checked email and FlyerTalk and then
headed across the street to meet Jeffrey and Teresa under the famous clock at
the Waldorf. They were waiting for me so we went out to catch a cab to Little
Italy for dinner. Just as we found a vacant taxi a police van pulled out in
front of traffic, blocking the street. We climbed in the cab and the driver
started the meter. It ticked and ticked as we waited 10 minutes while traffic
was blocked. Finally a motorcade pulled up and parked in front of the
Inter-Continental next door. That really rankles me. In this country, why is
anyone so important that the public streets are blocked off to let them make
their way through the city? Unless, like, it was me or something. Then it would
be OK.
We arrived at Da Nico on Mulberry St. and
went through to the garden out back for outside seating. Our waiter took care
of us and brought us a bottle of excellent Chianti for under $30. Jeffery’s new
partner Andy joined us and we had a superb meal, my third within seven hours. I
started with beef carpaccio and had the recommended red snapper. Focaccia bread
was phenomenal. You have to work really hard to get a bad meal in New York.
After dinner we went back to the clock at
the Waldorf to meet a couple business associates for drinks and dessert. The
lobby was filled with spiritual and religious leaders here for the peace
conference so it was tough to find a place to sit down. There was an empty sofa
but someone had left some stuff there reserving it. Jeffrey said never mind, we
could take their seats because we knew they weren’t going to fight us for them.
So we did.
Our friends arrived and we walked a block
to Maloney & Porcelli, a steakhouse owned by the same group as TGI Friday’s
and Cité. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but they had profiteroles which are on
my list of five so I had them. They were OK but could have used more hot fudge
sauce. Teresa got a beautiful chocolate cake with a stamped chocolate cow atop
it, possibly in honor of the Cows on Parade event that used to be in Chicago
but is now in New York. After we finished our desserts and sat around awhile,
the manager came by and said, “Can I buy you all a drink at the bar?” When we
looked astonished, he continued, “I really need this table.” Another superbly
handled customer-service problem. Jeffrey congratulated him and game him a
card, saying he’d be mentioned in an upcoming column. We took a rain check on
the drinks.
Nobody was up for late-night partying so
we parted ways and I returned to my suite. There was a nice blue bottle of
sparkling Ty Nant water, my favorite, and a box of four miniature chocolates
waiting for me. I climbed into the Heavenly-like bed and slept like a dream.
Around nine I got a call from Arnie. He
said he’d heard through the grapevine that Tiger
Woods, Michael Jordan, and Shaquille O’Neal were going to come play in the
high-rolling Mansion Casino at MGM Grand in about a half-hour. I finished writing,
showered, and came down but they weren’t there yet. They never did show up by
the time we checked out. I used the video checkout, paid the $2 for two local
calls to the Internet, and went down to retrieve the red Mitsubishi Mirage from
valet hock.
Arnie drove us over to Aladdin to check
out the new casino and shopping mall. If there was a way to enter from the
Strip we missed it and had to cut through the Paris parking lot to get around
back. They wanted $2 plus tip for the valet so we self-parked and went into the
mall. Desert Passage was yet another Vegas mall with painted sky. Only about
half the spaces were occupied by open shops but the ones that were open were
nice, high-end boutiques and trendy places like Z Gallerie. Arnie and Gary
hopped on a bicycle-driven rickshaw for a free tour ($3 tip accepted with
gushing joy) while I walked briskly and had little difficulty keeping up. The
coolest store in Desert Passage was Build-a-Bear, where you get to design your
own teddy bear out of the materials provided. I was content with my Hunnybear
so I passed.
Eventually we found the casino. It had a
unique interior with lots of stairs and escalators but it was not exceptionally
large. There was only one Pai Gow Poker game going on for $10/hand and the
high-roller room ($25) was deserted. The lobby was nice and there was a
pleasant lounge on the upper level that looked like it had live music in the
evening. The other high-roller area, the London Casino, didn’t open till four
so we didn’t see it but apparently the dealers wear long gowns. My overall
sense of the place was cramped and noisy but there were some pretty sights and
at least it wasn’t a cookie-cutter knock-off.
All three of us climbed back in the
rickshaw for a ride back to the parking lot and this time I tipped the driver
$2. He was still beaming so I guess some people hadn’t been tipping him at all.
Arnie drove us through the back alleys to Barbary Coast and told the pit boss
we were here for lunch so we got a comp slip for three. We ordered a ton of
good Chinese food. They didn’t have anything but Merlot by the glass so I
ordered a bottle of Beaujolais listed at $12 on the menu. It was pretty decent
and I left most of the bottle. Arnie corked it and stuffed it in our sassy
waitress’s apron pocket as a tip. We left 10 bucks and I decided to play a
couple hands of video poker. I stuck $100 in a Deuces Wild machine and hit Max
Play. Well it was a $5 machine, five coins per hand, and three hands per play
for a total of $75 a press! I got an inside straight and drew to it. It hit on
two of the three hands for a win of 20 coins, a net profit of $25! I cashed out
quick.
It was 1:30 so we headed over to Desert
Inn to play the last few hands before they closed forever. It was sad. Even
sadder, we arrived to find the parking lot fenced off. We parked in the valet
lot as no valets were in sight. A news camera was set up in front of the hotel.
We approached the door but were told that it was already closed, apparently at
2 a.m. last night. We had the wrong information from the news media. We kissed
the old DI goodbye and tried to imagine a 40-acre lake with four new hotels
surrounding it. I hoped one of them would be a Starwood property.
We decided to finish up at Mandalay Bay. I
played a little Pai Gow Poker but there wasn’t a decent game going so I just
treaded water and ended up ahead a little more. It was a great trip
gambling-wise: all three of us won. After a couple hours it was time to head to
the airport so we fetched the car from valet parking and began the short drive
to the airport. On the way we drove right by the airplane graveyard and saw all
the decommissioned United DC-10s up close. We returned the car to Dollar, which
didn’t have the outdoor wireless devices, and waited five minutes for the shuttle.
It stopped at the desolate Terminal 2 to let off a dozen people who were flying
ATA. It looked scary.
Arnie showed me the secret way up to the
gates. I checked in and my upgrade came through but the flight was delayed 20
minutes so I played some more video poker and won another $50. What a trip! The
poker machines I play have a house advantage of only 1.1% with perfect play so
it’s not too bad. It costs me an average of 5-1/2¢ per pull—not bad
entertainment. Once again I broke the bank. I cashed out just in time to sprint
to the gate before they called Zone 1.
I had seat 1C, my old favorite. My seat
opponent was once again a beautiful woman in the fashion industry. She was
Italian and touring all her company’s US stores. I advised her to see Venice
Beach and the Getty Museum while in town and told her the Andiamo restaurant at
the Hilton where she was staying was good. Service was good once again although
the announcements were robotic and in that patented United schoolteacher tone.
A salient quote: “When the seatbelt sign is on, using the restroom is not an
option.” Hey doll—sometimes it’s the only
option, you know what I mean?.
We landed 20 minutes late. I took the
shuttle to secret parking, put the top down, paid the $14, and zoomed home to
my Hunnybear.
I got a great comp deal in the mail from the MGM Grand so I booked an overnight trip to Vegas to meet Catman and the Arnie the Compmeister. Arnie and his brother Gary had received the same deal.I drove my white Pontiac convertible to the secret parking and took the shuttle to Terminal 7 in plenty of time for the first flight out. The line for United Shuttle checkin was snaking into the next terminal but there was nobody in the First Class/Premier 1K line so I made my way past a bass fiddle and weaved my way through the maze. An unsmiling male agent in a blue vest was typing away at his terminal so I wheeled up to him. “I’m not ready yet,” he said, quoting his Customer-Repellent manual verbatim. “I’ll wave you in when I’m ready.” Oh. OK. I wheeled back six feet and waited till he was ready. After 30 seconds he waved to me, still not smiling. “Hey!” yelled the lady at the front of the plebeian line, “I’m next.” “Ma’am, I’m servicing the First Class/1K line today.” “Does not matter!” She shouted. “Yes,” said the agent. “Yes it does matter.” He looked up at me with the barest hint of a smile. “I’m beating people up for you today.” I thanked him for his support and checked in.
I went through secret security and got beeped no matter how much metal I took out so they had to do me manually. They had security settings on high today. I stopped by the Red Carpet Club to pick up a Styrofoam cup of decaf and a couple of biscotti. They normally don’t like to put out too many biscotti because people just take them. Fortunately I had arrived in time to be the guy who takes them. I headed directly to gate 85. As I did, I saw happy, smiling pilots walking the other way, no doubt delighted they had come to agreement with United on their new contract. I passed a man shaking his head and saying to his wife, “I wouldn’t have picked United.” They’ve got a lot of PR work to do.
I was the first one on board and took seat 1C. The pilot was standing in the galley with a big grin, warmly greeting each passenger coming on board. “A lot of happy pilots today,” I said to him. “Yes,” he said. “I think we got what we wanted.” Good for you. My seat opponent was a beautiful tall woman who designed clothes and was heading to Vegas for a convention. She had been delayed three times yesterday by United. What little service there was on a Shuttle flight was delivered in a friendly and competent manner, which is all, I think, that anyone can really hope for. We arrived 10 minutes early.
Arnie’s flight was due to arrive at 10:05 so I had some time to play Deuces Wild. I hit a pat flush on the first hand and a pat five-of-a-kind on the second! The first session is an omen of the trip so I was happy about that. I kept playing and cashed out exactly even but the machine ran out of dollars. “Yes!” I shouted. “I broke the bank! Muhahahahahaha!” The change girl got on the phone and called for a refill. “What time is your flight?” she asked. “I’m picking someone up.” “About 10 minutes,” she said into the phone. Someone came and refilled the hopper and I was on my way.
I went down to baggage claim to see if the remote checkin for MGM Grand was open. It wasn’t, so I went back up through security to the C gates. The Compmeister was flying in from Phoenix with his brother Gary on Southwest. I had a few minutes so I played a little more Deuces Wild. This time I had a big losing streak but I hit a Wild Royal at the end and recovered all but $60. The old buzzard at the change booth counted out my money and instead of giving me the last $20 started counting ones. “Are you out of twenties?” I asked. “No. You want a twenty?” “Please.” He was obviously hustling tips.
The monitor still said 10:05 but the plane was nowhere in sight so I asked the nice Southwest agent when it was due. “10:17,” she said. “But the monitor still says 10:05.” “Those are the airport monitors. We have no control over those.” Really. Does the airport just tune in the radio to the flight delay channel? Who gives them the information if not Southwest? I didn’t believe it but didn’t make it an issue.
Finally Arnie and Gary arrived. Apparently there had been a medical emergency on the previous leg and the plane had diverted to Oklahoma City. I know that’s where I’d want to go if I had a medical emergency. I hear the hospital food is great there. The Comp brothers went to Dollar to rent a car on an $18.99 deal and I went to meet Catman. His United flight got in early too and we met at the tram stop in the main terminal and headed down to meet the boys. We took the shuttle to Dollar and piled into a tiny car and headed to MGM Grand.
Arnie looked for a front-desk manager that he knew to see about some comp upgrades. He wasn’t there but his boss was. She said the casino doesn’t like them giving comp upgrades on comp rooms but she did it anyway so all three of us got large Spa Suites with whirlpool baths. The Compmeister did it again. We said not a word but went straight down to play. I settled into the Pai Gow Poker pit and found a great game. I immediately lost the $75 in free chips I got as part of the comp package but hit a winning streak and built a nice cushion for the trip.
Our brunch reservations were for 1:20 at the Brown Derby but we showed up at one and munched on lamb chops while we waited. MileCrazy showed up a few minutes later and we got a nice round table near the food. I didn’t realize it was a buffet but it was a great one. Arnie requested some hot king-crab legs and we received a huge platter, steaming, with melted butter. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but come on. This buffet was world class and at $37.50 including Domaine Ste. Michelle was a pretty good deal compared to Bally’s $50 Sterling Brunch. The Compmeister entertained us with stories of past comps while Catman regaled us with plans for next year’s Catman-do-trois in New York.
We made plans to meet up with Catman and MileCrazy later. Gary decided to hit the Spa, which we had free admission to as part of our package, and Arnie and I headed for the pool. The new MGM pool is superb and has the longest Lazy River I’ve seen. We floated around under our own power taking in the sights and then Arnie found two abandoned inner tubes and grabbed them. “See?” he said. “I got those comped too?” “Arnie, that’s not a comp. That’s theft.” “Gray area,” he said. Regardless, we floated around a few more laps and then bestowed the tubes on some kids in case to throw the inner-tube police off our trail.
I changed and played some more Pai Gow Poker before we headed over to the Orleans for our show. We had Smothers Brothers tickets and picked them up at will call. Arnie had arranged comps for himself and Gary but I had to pay. “Tsk tsk,” I said. “Slipping.” But we sat down to play blackjack and the Compmeister went into action. Within 20 minutes we had a comp for dinner in the steakhouse, four rounds of four drinks at the show, and a credit-card refund for my ticket. Oh master, how could I ever have doubted you?
I lost my shirt at blackjack as usual and we headed into the show. As we had heard, the Smothers Brothers, in the 42nd year of their unique comedy-music act, were still great. They put on a first-class show and, when the crowd called for an encore, played “Michael, row the boat ashore” to ensure that nobody would ask for a second one.
We headed into the Canal St. steakhouse and had some excellent food. I tried the bone-in New York, which was quite good. The French onion soup was superb, as were the crab cakes I tasted from Arnie and the escargot Gary ordered. The menu is very reasonably priced even if we weren’t being comped and they had a great selection of inexpensive wines with a modest markup. I selected a bottle of Meridian Pinot Noir listed at $25. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but they had bananas Foster so I just had one. Catman and MileCrazy joined us for a few comp drinks at the end. I continued to be impressed with Coast properties and their great restaurants at modest prices.
We headed to Flamingo to take Catman home. Arnie and Gary played a little blackjack but the Pai Gow action was not great so I watched for a bit. A strung-out hooker sat down next to Arnie and we decided to get the heck out of there. What a dump this place had become.
We made plans to get together the next morning. I played a few more hours of Pai Gow Poker but didn’t get anywhere. I crashed around 2:30.
I awoke in the Sheraton North Houston to
the lilting strains of Debussy’s “Clair de Lune” and wrote for about an hour
before Paul came by for breakfast. He had spent the last nine months in Paris
but had now moved to Houston. We caught up over a decent buffet breakfast in
the Sheraton restaurant ($9.95) and then got so engrossed in talking that he
accompanied me to the airport. I checked out of the hotel and saw that I had no
local phone charges since I had been upgraded to Club level.
We boarded the Mercury Grand Marquis and
set Neverlost for the Hertz return. When we arrived I realized I had forgotten
to buy gas. That cost me $38. The rental itself was $19. Hertz had charged an
estimated $4.05/gallon for the gas. Outrageous. We took the shuttle on about a
20-minute ride to the United terminal and I checked in at the Premier/First
Class line even though there was no one in either line. The flight was on time
but my upgrade had not come through. The agent said my chances looked good
though. We headed to gate A11 to continue talking and sat next to a guy
studying for an Internet exam. I felt like turning to him and challenging him:
“OK, buddy: 127.0.0.1?” But I didn’t.
Then came the dreaded announcement, the
first one in my two years as a 1K: “For those passengers waiting for an
upgrade, the First Class cabin has checked in completely full.” I didn’t
believe my ears. I sidled up to the counter and said, “Did I hear that
correctly? First Class is full?” “I’m afraid so.” “No employees up there?”
“Uh…I don’t think so.” “Well, I’ll just hang around until the last minute in
case something magic happens.” As I scanned the waiting area for possible movie
stars, I rehearsed what I was going to say in case I walked onto the plane and
saw a platoon of uniformed flight attendants camped out in my jamboree. They
called all rows and I asked if any magic had happened. Nope. I hugged Paul
goodbye and steeled myself for a possible confrontation.
I turned right at the end of the Jetway
and saw eight Taiwanese businessmen filling all eight seats in First Class. It
turned out half the plane was full of passengers connecting to Taipei through
LAX. I took my seat in 4C, carefully chosen as always just in case. This was
the first time I ever had to use it though. I stood at my seat until the last
passenger boarded. Yes! Only a couple of empty seats on the plane, but the one
next to me was blocked out. I settled into the seat and my jaw dropped. The
legroom! The seat width and legroom in Economy Plus were comparable to a 767 in
First Class! Maybe this wasn’t going to be so bad.
Then came the other dreaded announcement. “Ladies and Gentlemen, your
flight attendants are primarily here for your safety.” Wonderful. If there’s an
emergency, I hope it doesn’t involve the flight attendants knowing how to cook
beef. Frankly I’d prefer flight attendants that were here primarily to make me happy. And what about those seats
that cost extra in Economy Plus and First Class? Are those extra safe? I sure
like sitting up there in those really safe seats. No, nice pretty Texas girls
who didn’t know a thing about anything but cooking and being sweet would be
fine. In the event of an emergency she could just wrinkle her nose and say, “Is
there a big strong man on board who could help li’l ol’ me open that big heavy
door for just a minute?”
Then, as seems to happen more often than
not, though, there was a problem with the entertainment system on the Airbus.
The daddy sitting in the bulkhead was congratulating himself on scoring such
great seats. I told him yes, those were very nice except you can’t see the
movie. His face fell. Sure enough, when they started the feature I heard
comments like, “It’s like looking at a negative.” I had more problems. None of
the seats in my row had any audio on any channel. And in the weirdest problem
yet, my channel selector skipped directly from channel 15 to 2, missing 1
entirely. The flight attendants brought spare headsets for my safety but it was
to no avail. Finally they restarted the movie since a couple other people in
Coach and the entire First-Class cabin had no audio. No dice. As a last resort
the purser offered to put the sound track on the PA system if no one objected.
No one did but she couldn’t figure out how to work it. If there’s an emergency
I hope it doesn’t involve knowing how to work the video system.
So I watched the video portion of the
movie, Center Stage, on and off.
It appeared to be about teenage girls wearing leotards, one of my favorite
subjects, so I was disappointed I didn’t get to hear the dialogue. I made it up
in my head. “Do you like my new leotard?” “Oh, yes, I like it very much. It’s a
nice color on you.” “Thank you. I was thinking of wearing it to the Prom.” “Oh,
definitely. It will go quite well with a corsage.”
The drink cart came around and they did a
stealth drink comp to compensate for the movie problems. In a stealth drink
comp they don’t announce that they’re giving away free drinks but if you order
one they don’t charge you. I’m not sure if it was just for me because I was 1K
or if they did it for the whole cabin but they included my seat opponent, a
minister from Oxnard, California, who finally asked for a beer after several
subtle hints from the stewardess. He was crowing to me about the benefits of
Silver Wings membership in conjunction with Oxnard Airport. Apparently Silver
Wings members get mileage-based fares that save lots of money when flying in
and out of boutique airports like that. He said he flew 100,000 miles last year
on United so I educated him a bit about those funny certificates that come in
the mail. We discussed whether we thought Jesus would accept an upgrade and
decided that it fell into the category of anointing his feet with precious oils
so it was probably OK if given freely.
Lunch was a cheeseburger recycled from
recalled Firestone SUV tires, served with tasteless onions on an overtoasted
bun, accompanied by Lays potato chips and a pickle. The stewardess thought some
of the entrees might be chicken but didn’t know how to tell them apart. If
there’s an emergency I hope it doesn’t involve being able to tell entrees
apart. Dessert was a tiny shortbread cookie, which I passed on since as a rule
I don’t eat dessert. The curtains were closed and I imagined the hushed
laughter, the clinking of champagne, the smell of fresh pheasant as the glass
is lifted by liveried waiters—
All too quickly the captain announced our
descent. I put away my toys and watched wistfully as the purser presented hot
towels to the First-Class passengers. That’s really the thing I miss the most,
I thought. And then she made my day. Quite unexpectedly, she ventured two steps
beyond the barrier, leaned in, smiled, and said only to me, “Would you like a hot towel, Mr. Lion?” Oh yes.
Yes indeed. Indeed I would.
The flight arrived at the gate 10 minutes
late although it was scheduled for 15 minutes early. There was a lot of traffic
on the ramp. Hunnybear was waiting at the secret place and we drove down to
Newport Beach to pick up Pluto, in town for a wedding himself. We found him,
parched and sweating, having attempted to walk “a couple blocks” in Orange
county.
We swung by the Westin South Coast Plaza
to take a look at the suite of rooms they had given him. The rooms had been
redone with nice new W-like furniture and Heavenly Beds, although the windows
in the hotel still had the scratchy film over them that I remembered from my
last stay there with Hunnybear. He had only bought one room but they gave him
three. Nice going, Pluto. We drove back to the Marina and showed Pluto our own
suite of rooms, then went for a walk up Venice beach before dropping Pluto off
at United for his flight back to Seattle.
Hunnybear and I took my white Pontiac
convertible up to Burbank to meet with the FlyerTalk gang for dinner at
Castaways. The part of Burbank near the foothills was very nice. We drove up a
winding road to this historic view restaurant that burned down a few years ago
and was completely rebuilt. Like most view restaurants, the food was awful, but
the company was great. Catman had shaved off his whiskers. We wished PremEx a
happy birthday and asked him what he was going to do. His response, of course:
“I’m going to Disneyland!”
The only thing that could have brought me to Houston in August was Danny and Jacey’s wedding. Hunnybear dropped me off at LAX in her black Cabrio convertible. I went to the 1K/First Class queue and watched as a Japanese family stood next to me at the mysterious Secondary Screening counter that no one was staffing. The father finally waved his ticket at one of the 1K agents and said “Special Screening?” The agent said, “Shuttle? Go down to the other end of the airport!” Confused, the man took his family and headed down to the Shuttle checkin. They were stopped by one of the red-vested line monitors and redirected to Secondary Screening but the man said the agent had sent them away so she let them go. Man, are they going to have some bad things to say about United when they get home.
Just then, a woman came to staff Secondary Screening but, having no customers because they were all checking in at Shuttle, she waved to me to come check in with her. She dutifully collected my certs and sent me to gate 66. Instead I went to the Red Carpet Club where the goodie basket was out of biscotti so I had to beg for some from the food-service staff. She first said they were out but then I asked if they had any more in back and she relented. “What kind you want?” she asked. “One of each,” I said. She brought out three. I ate one with a cup of decaf and saved the other two for the flight.
I arrived at gate 66 at the scheduled boarding time only to find a 757 at the gate where my Airbus 320 should have been. The crew was equally surprised. Just before departure time a beautiful blonde with bare midriff and extremely tight jeans arrived by herself and stood waiting. I wondered if she was a model—she looked familiar. After about five minutes the 757 pushed back but still no Airbus. Finally the plane arrived from the hangar and we boarded about five minutes before scheduled departure. We had a great flight attendant who did a preflight drink service instead of making the excuse that the flight was late like most of them do. It was a good thing, too, because the flight sat and sat and sat on the ground. The blonde took seat 1A. Normally I take 1B but lately I’d been avoiding bulkheads on Airbuses because of the short legroom and difficulty watching the movie screen so I was in 2C.
About a half-hour after scheduled departure the captain got on the PA and announced that they couldn’t find a push crew. Then the push crew showed up but they apparently “deferred a bonding strap.” I said loudly that they should do that kinky stuff on their own time. Then the captain said they had forgotten to put the fuel cap back on and they were looking for one. The lady in 3B said she thought she might have one in her purse. Meanwhile the blonde in 1A had whipped out a movie script and was studying it. I looked at her again. Oh no. Could it be? I couldn’t wait to get up and check the manifest.
Finally we took off, 61 minutes after scheduled departure time. As soon as the seatbelt sign was off I got up and nonchalantly looked at the manifest. Sure enough. Charlize Thieron, one of the hottest actresses in Hollywood, was sitting on my flight. I had been taken with her in That Thing You Do! And Trial and Error. Seat 1B stayed empty but I couldn’t very well move at this point. I told the flight attendant it was Charlize Thieron. She offered to make up a story to let me move into 1B like the audio wasn’t working but I thought that would be tacky. I spent the rest of the flight practicing video poker and rehearsing what I was going to say to Charlize Thieron.
(Suavely) “Excuse me. You’re a movie star, aren’t you? Allow me to introduce myself. Bond. James Bond.”
(Seductively) “Miss Thieron? Forgive the interruption, but I just had to tell you…I admire your work very much.”
(Groucho) “Hey, if I told you you made beautiful movies, would you hold them against me?”
Breakfast was a choice of fruit and cereal or carbo sampler. I had the sampler. Charlize Thieron didn’t have anything but a glass of orange juice. The movie was Where the Money Is with Paul Newman. I thought it would have been amusing if they had been showing one of Charlize Thieron’s movies such as Mighty Joe Youngor The Astronaut’s Wife. I had seen this one before on the 777 earlier in the month so I passed. The plane had laptop outlets but they were not turned on and apparently there was no switch on the video unit. Fortunately my battery lasted.
Charlize Thieron fell asleep but woke up to watch part of the movie. Being in the industry I guess she likes movies. I told the guy behind me that Charlize Thieron was on the plane.
We landed about 50 minutes late in Houston. The flight attendant apologized several times for the delay—the only one in the company totally blameless—and passed out bottles of wine to all the First-Class passengers, me first. Charlize Thieron took one too. When the seat belt sign went off I leapt out of my seat, determined to at least say something to the 25-year-old South African actress. She beat me out of the plane and I caught up with her outside the jetway. I was just about to open my mouth when she fell into the arms of a big buff boyfriend so I cast one last glance and headed onward.
The Hertz shuttle took about five minutes to show up but in the heat it felt like an hour. I was the only passenger so the driver made all the announcements to me personally. I had reserved a Taurus with Neverlost but there was a Mercury Grand Marquis waiting for me—an upgrade, I guess, but what a crappy car. The steering was mushy and the rear-view mirror bounced up and down the whole trip. I set the controls for Beaumont and headed to the wedding. I called Hunnybear and told her Charlize Thieron was on the plane. “Ooh,” she said, “She’s on your List of Five, isn’t she?” Yep.
Danny’s 22-year-old wife Jacey is one of the most beautiful women I’ve ever met, with a disposition to match. I asked Danny if he was nervous and he asked why would he be? He’s just glad she’s going through with it. The ceremony was brief and we adjourned to a great reception in the Holiday Inn Beaumont Plaza (Beaumont actually has two Holiday Inns) with surprisingly good food. The cake was phenomenal. I figure if you have a beautiful bride and a great cake the wedding is a success. I told Danny Charlize Thieron was on the plane with me and his eyes widened. “You know,” he said—and I interrupted. “She’s on your List of Five, isn’t she?” “Yep.”
I headed back to Houston to stay the night at the Sheraton North Houston by the airport. Neverlost got lost and took the stupidest route imaginable but I finally got there. They had upgraded me to the top floor, Club level, although the club was not open on weekends. It was an ordinary moderate hotel with a two-line phone and a desk. No amenity but surprisingly they had a bathrobe. $53/night. Did I mention Charlize Thieron?
Not expecting to see Kokonutz the next
morning, I was surprised to find him in the elevator lobby as I was returning
to my room to retrieve my forgotten cell phone. His presentation was finished
and we decided to hit the casino host to get some more comps. We wheeled our
luggage to the VIP-services office by the front desk. There were four clerks
there behind a huge counter. It looked like a very upscale travel agency. I
poured myself a cup of decaf from a silver urn while the clerk looked up our
accounts. She sent us across the casino to a different office that actually
said “casino host.” Apparently we weren’t quite VIP enough to deserve to be in
the plush room so we wheeled our bags across the casino.
The casino host office had low ceilings,
fluorescent lights, and several desks that mostly looked unlived in. A nervous
guy named Bob, who reminded me of the Dan Hedaya character in Joe versus the Volcano (“I know he can get the job. But can he do the job?”), sat fidgeting on the
telephone, ignoring us, so we wandered around the room, picked up doodads and
examined them, leafed through the fake books on the particle-board shelves, and
played with the mounted bass that dances and sings to “Don’t Worry, Be Happy”
until Bob got off the phone.
I told Bob that we were ready to check out
and would ideally like to get comped for last night’s meal, have a comp lunch
now, and get a limo to the airport. He punched a few buttons. “Would you like
to have lunch at the coffee shop? The buffet?”
“We’d like to have lunch at the nicest
place we can go that we don’t have to pay.”
“Would you like to have lunch at the
coffee shop or the buffet?” Koko and I figured that since we had tried the coffee
shop about six hours ago that we would go to the buffet. No problem. Bob picked
up the phone and reserved a limo for us for 1:15 to take Koko to the airport
and we headed for the buffet. It was just as bad as the coffee shop but had the
added problem of several shelves of dessert. Koko and I agreed that, since as a
rule neither of us eats dessert, that if the dessert selection was crappy we’d
only eat a little bit. So we each got just a couple pieces of cake or pie with
maybe a little soft-serve ice cream to cleanse the palate.
On the way to check out we played a few
hands of nickel video poker and then headed for the front desk. My only charges
were the tips and phone calls—one-dollar flat rate for local calls, which I’ve
never seen any casino comp. A skinny guy wearing a black suit and black shirt
with a black-and-white tie escorted us into a cherry-red stretch limo and
dropped Kokonutz off at the airport in plenty of time for his flight home. I
had the driver then take me to the Mirage to play some more Pai Gow Poker.
I had great luck at the Mirage and
couldn’t lose. There were some high rollers in this place, still one of the
nicest casinos in Vegas. One guy was playing two hands of $1000 at the next
table. A fidgety Chinese guy from Albuquerque at my table was sipping cognac, shuffling
his chips, betting only exact multiples of $115, and bemoaning the $15 grand he
dropped at Baccarat yesterday. After a few hours I asked for a comp to the
nicest dinner I could get without paying. The floor supervisor recommended the
coffee shop or the buffet. I picked the coffee shop, which turned out to be
superb. I had a shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, and T-bone steak. I passed on
dessert even though it was free. By that time it was almost time to go to the
airport and I just hopped into a cab rather than arrange for a limo even though
I probably could have.
The cab ($11) dropped me at United
Airlines and I went right to the Premier/First-Class checkin counter since there
was no one in line. I once again had reserved seat 1A. The agent asked for
certs but I said, “Certs? I don’t need no stinkin’ certs.” He agreed and handed
me my boarding pass. I wheeled up to the Monopoly machines and quickly doubled
$5. I didn’t put the bucket of nickels through the conveyor belt this time so
they didn’t spill all over the floor this time. I changed them at the booth
near my gate and headed right for my favorite Deuces Wild machine and once
again hit a wild royal for another $55 profit. What a trip!
The flight boarded just about on time.
Service was once again great. The steward even asked for drink refills on the
short 42-minute run. My seat opponent was a Hong Kong Chinese businessman with
a beautiful British Accent who got upgraded, leaving his wife and two children
behind in coach. I told him about FlyerTalk and he said he’d have his secretary
read it.
I was the first one off the plane so I
raced to the secret place to find my Hunnybear waiting for me in her beautiful
black Cabrio to whisk me home.
Kokonutz was overnighting in Vegas so I booked the $99 special on United to meet him. I had a camera crew from the BBC coming by in the afternoon to record my wisdom for an upcoming series so I chose the 5:46 p.m. flight. I got a ride to the airport from the crew in their rented SUV, bid them cheerio, and went through secret security to the Premier Executive checkin. I figured there would be a nice view on the short flight so I had reserved seat 1A. The plane was a regular 737, not a Shuttle, so I missed out on extra legroom by not booking the right side of row 1. Service was friendly as usual on this flight. My seat opponent was reading a John Grisham novel and showing off his tiny Sony laptop, which was about 10% as big as my Toshiba. There was thunderstorm activity near Vegas so the pilot curtailed drink service early and had everyone strap in. The landing was smooth though and the view of the setting sun through the faraway rain gave testimony to the natural beauty of the Southwestern desert upon which was built the modern Sodom and Gomorrah. We landed about 10 minutes late.
Koko’s flight from Washington-Dulles was on time so I had 37 minutes to kill. I was into my second Benji at my favorite Deuces Wild machine when sure enough I hit the wild royal and ended up ahead by $5. I cashed out, shaking my fists in the air and shouting, “Yes, yes, I’ve been in America only 5 minutes and already I’ve won $5!” Then I went to the sports bar to get a couple margaritas to greet Koko with. As the flight rolled up to the gate, what appeared to be two cops approached and waited for the passengers to deplane. I said I hoped they weren’t there for my buddy. Fortunately, they turned out to be security guards there as a courtesy escort for the first passenger off the plane, former Georgetown basketball coach John Thompson. Koko was right behind him. We embraced like long-lost brothers and headed down to the limo.
We got our chits for Las Vegas Limos and waited about five minutes till they filled one up with Strip travelers. The limo driver ordered me to put the handle down on my Briggs & Reilly. I told him you just press the button but he informed me he didn’t do that. I said fine, just keep me informed as to what you do and don’t do so I can keep up with you. I put the handle down and then he ordered me to detach the piggyback strap on the laptop. I did that too, as I began to craft exactly what I would say when he stuck his hand out for a tip at the end of the trip. Then along came an English couple in their early 20s and the woman’s niece, an 18-year-old blonde with a denim skirt, pink sneakers, a braided choker necklace, and a French-cut T-shirt stretched beyond all reasonable tensile thresholds. Just below the neckline was written, in understated print, “you wish.”
We all climbed into the limo. The English guy sat with his arm around his fiancée’s niece the whole way while Koko and I tried to figure out if we got three wishes each or just one. Just then Koko’s cell phone rang. It was his wife reminding him that he had three children. We let the Brits off at Paris, an older couple at Luxor, and finally pulled up in front of the stately Las Vegas Hilton, that great hotel that’s cheap. I silently told our attitude-laden driver that I hoped the not-putting-handles-down thing was working out for him, turned, and left him standing by the trunk of the limo.
There was a casino VIP line and a hotel VIP line right by the front door. Since there was no one in the hotel VIP line Koko and I, both HHonors Gold, went there even though I had a comp room reserved. We schmoozed the clerk trying to get an upgrade. Koko ended up with a regular room and for some reason I got a bizarre honeymoon half-suite with raised bed and mirrored walls and ceilings. There was supposed to be a whirlpool but it was just a rounded bathtub. I asked the clerk if anybody ever tried to bribe her to get a better room. Without hesitation she stuck out her hand and said, “sure”! She said she had no problem with people slipping her a hundred bucks. “A hundred!” I said. “What kind of room do I get for 20?” “Oh, maybe a lanai overlooking the pool on the fourth floor.” Vegas is toke city for sure.
Koko freshened up while I went straight down to the Pai Gow Poker tables so I could get more losing in. After a bit he joined me and picked up the game quite fast. I had a nice winning streak right toward the end and ended up down only a little. We asked for a comp for the coffee shop but they told us to sign it to our room. I had an OK Reuben and Koko had a patty melt. I wouldn’t recommend the place unless it was the only thing open, which it was. The hours getting wee, we retired for the evening.
We already bought the Heavenly-like bed. Now we may have to go for the pillows. The W bed is the most comfortable I’ve ever slept on. With rare sunlight filtering through the window slats, reluctantly, we got up. I hit the Play button on the great W CD we had been listening to all weekend as we made plans for the day. The first order of business was a long walk to work off some of last night’s meal and prepare us for tonight’s. We walked down Fourth Avenue all the way to Belltown and had breakfast at our old haunt CJ’s. Construction in Belltown was continuing apace. New residential towers were going up everywhere we looked. As we passed Pike St. we noticed a canopy was being constructed between Seventh and Eighth Avenues reminiscent of Las Vegas’s Fremont St. Experience. Cities are always copying each other. I thought they should build a Riverwalk here except that given the water level they’d have to call it the Sewerwalk.
Hunnybear and I both had the special scramble at CJ’s ($21 plus tip). Then we walked through Myrtle Edwards Park all the way to the commercial pier. They were doing something very weird to the foot- and bike-traffic patterns in the park: there were orange signs every few feet warning people about keeping right and left and merging and so on. Everyone seemed very confused by it. We walked back along the waterfront to the Bell St. Fish Bar where we sat down, had a couple bottled waters, and watched the Norwegian Sky load up. Then we walked through Pike Place Market and saw the famous Spoon Man, who now had a full head of hair. Last time I saw him he was completely shaved.
Checking out at the W
By that time it was almost three so we headed back to the W to pack up for our 4 p.m. checkout. They had turned off my Internet access and telephone already, which kind of defeated the purpose of having a 4 p.m. checkout, and they had charged the secret Free Saturday room rate to our bill for the third time in a row. I went down and talked with Nicole, the stunningly gorgeous blonde clerk, about the bill and she took care of it. Ninety percent of the best-looking women in Seattle work at this hotel. I mentioned that I had stayed here three times now and never been given a suite upgrade and what was up with that? As a Plutonium member I was outraged. Nicole said the hotel was fully booked and people actually were buying suites. Outrageous. Apparently they had three levels of suite at the W: the So Suite, the Very Suite, and the Way Suite. Regardless, the corner room we had (there seemed to be some terminology dispute among the staff as to whether it was a “junior suite” or simply a corner room) was delightful if a bit cramped. I expressed my happiness that the hotel was doing so well.
Roni met us at the W, having driven up from Olympia, and we descended the stairs to the bar so we could have a few Emerald Drops. Soon Kevin and Lara joined us and we munched on spicy almonds as we drank pastel-colored drinks from zig-zag-stemmed martini glasses and Lara, quite pregnant, sipped lemonade. Jody, the friendly and excellent day bartender, went home and was replaced by Dawniel, a stunningly gorgeous brunette bartender, and Kasie, a stunningly gorgeous cocktail waitress. Within minutes, five men immediately appeared at the bar trying their pathetic acts in a hopeless quest for Dawniel. The girls agreed that the only one who had a chance was the guy standing up and talking. The ones nervously looking into their drinks, working up the courage to speak, didn’t know it but they were already dead in the water. Such is the cruel reality of Darwinism.
We cashed out, making sure to get Starpoints for the drinks, and walked downhill to Second Avenue for our 6 p.m. early dinner reservations at the Brooklyn. This was one of those places where something has always gone wrong for me although some parts have always been excellent. Tonight it was Hunnybear’s salmon sampler that came out dry and overcooked twice. Fortunately the lamb chops they gave me were enough for two so we just split them. They were a bit fatty and cooked medium rather than the rare I ordered them, but they were still yummy. The manager came over and comped us all dessert for our trouble.
A nice leisurely dinner and it was time to head for the airport so we hugged Kevin and Lara goodbye, picked up our baggage at the W, and Roni drove us to Sea-Tac. We headed right for the Alaska Board Room but it was closed so we headed for the gate. A friendly, smiling redheaded girl who looked 17 checked us in and waived the upgrade-certificate requirement. What a difference between the Alaska personnel at Sea-Tac versus LAX!
The flight boarded early. It was an MD-80 with leather seats in First and, I hoped, freshly inspected jackscrews in the tail. We took off just a few minutes late. I reclined the seat to its maximum, only a few inches, into a strikingly uncomfortable position but nonetheless fell asleep immediately and stayed that way until the landing announcement came two hours later. There was a fruit and cheese plate served on this flight but Hunnybear and I both slept through it. We used the reverse pattern and came in over the ocean for a beautiful approach. As we landed we passed a large airplane bearing a government seal, probably used for shuttling high officials to and from important functions. I couldn’t think of anything important going on in LA right now though, just the Democratic National Convention, so maybe I was mistaken.
It was only steps from the gate to my car, parked right on the gate level in the Terminal 3 parking. We paid the $32 to get it out of hock and sped home in the moist, almost tropical air.
We had a couple of gift certificates for the Metropolitan Grill due to expire soon so Hunnybear and I booked an overnight trip to Seattle. The night before, Hunnybear’s employer threw a big bash at a movie studio in famous Culver City, California, so I walked from Marina del Rey to Culver City and met everybody at Tony’s house where I poured lemon drops for the entire company prior to taking a school bus to the party. It was a jammin’ night. Hunnybear was wearing glasses in preparation for having her eyes zapped in a couple weeks so everybody was telling her how cute she looks in glasses. She looks cute no matter what. That’s the nature of Hunnybears. Around 11:15 I rested for a moment on a big foam cushion in front of the band. Then at 1 a.m. Hunnybear woke me up and said it was time to go so we called a cab. It took 40 minutes for the cab to come but eventually we got home four hours before we had to wake up.
We were on an Alaska Airlines $50 companion ticket upgraded to First Class with complimentary upgrades. We drove the white Pontiac convertible to LAX and parked in the Terminal 3 parking ($16/day). For two days it was the same price as taking a taxi both ways. Alaska’s ticket counter was a mob scene. We wheeled by people in the huge economy line talking about what compensation they were going to demand and made it to the empty First Class/MVP line. The worst checkin agent I’ve ever had reached out and took our tickets without breaking a conversation with a coworker. When she finally finished that conversation she stared at her terminal without looking up.
“Hello,” I said. She looked annoyed and said, “Do you want to axe me a question?” “No,” I said, “just ‘hello.’” She went right into the security questions. Hunnybear and I played serious and looked at each other as if racking our brains after each one. “Are you OK?” asked the agent. “Yes,” I said. “Do you always talk like that?” I explained that we were entertainers. Hunnybear explained that we were smartasses. I asked if there was a Board Room at this airport. Yes, she said, but it’s run by TWA. “Does that mean I can’t use it?” I asked. “Not if you’ve got those blue coupons.” Still unpleasant, she demanded two upgrade coupons from each of us and sent us on our way. The security line was 10 minutes long at Terminal 3 and the sensitivity was set so high that the rivets on my blue jeans set off the metal detector. This was one of the worst boarding experiences I’d ever had.
Fortunately that all changed on board. The stewardess was young, tall, blonde, and beautiful and gave us great service throughout the flight. It was a new 737-400 with leather seats in First Class. We had seats 1A and C. We took off a few minutes late. As usual for Alaska there was preflight orange juice, which we don’t like, but the stewardess brought us each a glass of water on request. Breakfast was disappointing: cold cereal and fruit with a biscuit. With no hot breakfast and no audio or video entertainment, Alaska is strikingly inferior to United on this route, especially when you consider the difficulties boarding. I asked the flight attendant if this was a Concorde, because I was scared to fly Concordes. She assured me it wasn’t.
We landed at Sea-Tac and taxied to gate C1. Having no bags to collect we wheeled up to the ticket counter to take care of a future flight. Alaska had no separate “ticket purchase” line at either LAX or Sea-Tac so we stood in the First Class/MVP line. This time we got a great, friendly, helpful agent who happily ticketed Hunnybear’s partner award on Canadian, a Business-Class round-trip from LA to Toronto for 30,000 miles, a great deal even though she had to be routed through Calgary and Vancouver. We vented to her about the LAX staff and wondered what had happened to my two favorite airlines, Alaska and United.
Hunnybear and I took the limo to town ($30 plus $5 tip). It was a gold limo formerly used by the Mirage in Las Vegas and had the logo still affixed to the interior upholstery. We felt right at home. Traffic was terrible on I-5 because of the Mariners game but eventually we got to the W Seattle at 4th and Seneca. For the third straight stay here, whoever was in charge of greeting guests who pull up to the hotel was nowhere to be found. We wheeled our luggage to the front desk without so much as a glance at or from a bellman. But as usual the front-desk staff was friendly and helpful. We got our choice of a deluxe room ready now or a junior suite ready later. Naturally we took the junior suite.
Lots of free food
By this time we felt like slurping back some oysters at Elliott’s so we walked down the hill and got a nice table inside. It was a but chilly in Seattle, only about 68, and our thin LA skins couldn’t take sitting outside. We ordered a dozen Westcott Bay Euro Flats, the world’s best oyster, and two blackened-salmon Caesars. The total came to $50.85 before tax and we had $50 worth of customer-service certificates so we ended up paying only the tip for lunch. After lunch we walked along the waterfront and up Wall St. to our old apartment. We stopped in at Tully’s, the world’s greatest coffee, soon to open in LA, and I got a double huge iced decaf americano, which they refused to let me pay for. I tipped them a million dollars as Hunnybear chatted and got the latest Tully’s poop.
Coffee in hand, we walked over to Seattle Center to check out the new Experience Music Project and our favorite, the International Fountain. There was a bit of a line to get into the EMP and since it was such a glorious day we decided to wait for another day to see it. Instead we camped out at the International Fountain and watched the kids playing and screaming down below, kind of a water-sports version of the Roman gladiators. They were having some kind of kids festival at the Center so the place was crawling with even more rug rats and strollers than usual.
After a while we took the monorail back to town ($1.25) and walked the rest of the way to the W. Our room was ready, a long but narrow corner room on the fourth floor with a peek of the water. The clerk apologized for putting us on such a low floor but I said there aren’t really any views from this hotel anyway so big deal. The junior suite was decorated like the rest of the rooms only more so. There was a striped chaise longue in a corner with an oversized floor lamp behind it. Windows were everywhere. Most importantly there was high-speed Internet access ($9.95). I phoned “Whatever Whenever” and got an Ethernet cable delivered in minutes at no charge. I plugged in and it just worked. What an amazing testimony to Microsoft engineering that what only a few years ago took $1000 worth of special software and a certified professional to set up now came plug-and-play, included free with Windows 98 by the evil consumer-hurting monopoly.
Hunnybear caught up on her beauty sleep while I caught up on FlyerTalk. Around 5:30 we took a cab over to the studio of John Sisko ( www.siskoworks.com ), one of Seattle’s most prominent sculptors, to see his brand-new work commissioned by the Seattle University Law School. It was my favorite work of his to date, a slender, rational-looking man focusing upward through a strange glass instrument he is holding. In addition to being a prominent artist and intellectual, Sisko works as a bartender at my favorite local hangout, Cutters, a couple nights a week, which is how we met. If you go to the bar there on a Sunday or Monday night you may find him there and you’d be in for a treat.
We enticed Sisko to come with us for an Emerald Drop at the W, where we were meeting Pluto for a drink prior to dinner at the Met. Hunnybear had been looking forward to the Emerald Drop for weeks. We had a couple rounds, then bid Sisko goodbye and headed over.
The Met
Keoke, the maitre d’, greeted me like a long-lost brother, or at least like a brother who was a big tipper. Long before I ever tipped him one dime, though, he had made such an impact on my dining experience here, and at Elliott’s before that, that I had him rated as the top Maitre d’ anywhere. I just love him—he takes full responsibility for everything that goes on at his restaurant. Our table wasn’t ready so he gave us a tour of the area being renovated (it was closed starting tomorrow for two weeks) and set us up in the bar with a bottle of champagne. After a few minutes we were escorted to a nice booth near the front, where I ordered the phenomenal beef carpaccio to start off.
We asked the wine steward for his recommendation for a pinot noir and he suggested a New Zealand wine. I raised my eyebrows but we tried it anyway. We all thought it was drinkable but not a $90 bottle of wine so I let him know. He insisted on bringing up a bottle of Domaine Drouhin Oregon pinot noir, one of the best, to replace it. Great service.
For dinner Pluto and I shared the chateaubriand, medium rare, while Hunnybear had her usual Petite Filet with peppercorns, rare. The meal was superb as usual although I though both meals were done slightly more than we ordered—not enough to send back, though. The crust on the chateaubriand was amazing. Keoke showed up with the world’s best dessert, the nine-layer chocolate cake, with his compliments. As usual three of us could not come close to finishing this monster. The gift certificate took a chunk out of the bill and Pluto picked up the rest with his Plutonium card before I could utter a whisper of protest. The Compmeister had nothing on me when it came to getting free stuff in Seattle.
We hugged Pluto goodbye and walked in the dying light back to the W.
I set my Toshiba laptop to wake me up at 8:30 by having the task scheduler play Debussy’s “Clair de Lune” but it didn’t work because of some bug in Windows Critical Update Notification that was hogging up the task scheduler. So I uninstalled Windows Critical Update Notification for next time. I had reserved the SuperShuttle on line for a 10:20 pickup. I tried to use the video checkout but it didn’t work so I went down to the front desk and checked out with no delay. I had inadvertently exceeded the one-hour limit on local calls several times and it cost me a few bucks in outrageous charges but since the room rate was so cheap I didn’t fret.
The SuperShuttle didn’t show by 10:35 so I whipped out my Nokia 6160 cell phone and dialed 1-800-BLUE-VAN but just as I did it pulled around the corner. I said a teary goodbye to the bell staff at the Westin Grand and climbed into the back seat of the van. The only other rider was a black woman attorney from LA who turned out to be on the same flight as me and who was at a different convention at the same hotel as me. Since there was no traffic and we were arriving at Dulles two hours before flight time I invited her to be my guest at the Red Carpet Club.
We pulled up at the Eero Saarinen terminal and I paid the driver with my Sheraton Starpoints Optima card. There was no one in line at any of the checkin counters. I went around the back to the 1K checkin and got a nice smile from the agent there who recognized Lion Tales but collected my upgrade cert anyway. If being a celebrity doesn’t accord special privileges, what’s the point?
I collected my shuttlemate from the Premier line and we took the lunar rover over to Terminal D. The whole airport seemed deserted. I got her in to the Red Carpet Club as promised, gave her a brief tour of the facility, and then disappeared into the special area for people who want to have loud phone conversations while sitting next to people working on their laptops. It was empty so I took a seat with a view of the food. Later a woman came in to sit next to me while having a loud phone conversation.
I went up 20 minutes before flight time to board flight 71, a 757 to Los Angeles. I had seat 1B so I went down the Jetway and turned left. The 757 had the old leather seats, which meant better legroom but less reclining comfort and no laptop power. This flight went off without a hitch. Service was friendly and helpful and we took off on time after a preflight drink. We got menus showing a choice of lamb chops, turkey picatta, salmon, and seared ahi tuna salad. Lamb chops are my absolute favorite thing United serves. Surprisingly, though, the stewardess not only took orders back to front but didn’t ask the 1Ks for their choices first! By the time she got to me three out of the four choices were gone. Miraculously, the only choice left was—lamb chops! I grumbled a token “outrageous” and secretly anticipated the lamb.
The appetizer was also my favorite, lox, served in honor of Steve Lieberman’s selection as Vice Presidential candidate. The lamb was great as usual, cooked medium rare and served with gnocchi and mixed tubers. For some reason they waited almost an hour into the flight to start the movie. I don’t know why they do that since they have four hours of programming available. Anyway, I got to see Natalie Portman in her entirety (they had cut it off just before the extremely tasteful sex scene on the trip out) in Where the Heart Is. It was quite good. As a rule I don’t eat dessert so I skipped the Ben & Jerry’s ice-cream sundaes and the Mrs. Fields cookies but I took the hot towel.
We landed just a couple minutes late at gate 69B. The Terminal 6 baggage claim was once again in operation so I waited for my bag to come out rather than spending the time walking to Terminal 7 as before. I chatted with a gentleman about United’s problems as we watched the non-priority bags come out first. He asked if I knew that United was canceling lots of flights. “Oh, I know,” I said. “I know, I know.”
I took a cab home ($17 including tip) and awaited Hunnybear’s arrival home from work.
With no car any more I took a taxi to the Marriott and held court with Jeffrey in the lobby until it was time for lunch, cold congealed salmon with compressed particulate chicken stuffed with crabmeat-flavored Play-Doh. The speeches continued to be a fine showcase of NSA talent here in Washington and we had an excellent encore juggling performance from Passing Zone. After the lunch program Jeffrey, Teresa and I went up to their tiny junior suite. Jeffrey took a call from a US Airways employee who spent 20 minutes trying to justify and explain why they were on the only plane in they sky that found it necessary to divert from Washington National airport to Baltimore on Friday, without telling the passengers until they were already up in the air. Besides that they lost his luggage. You don’t want to do that more than once a month or so to a guy who writes a weekly column on customer service syndicated in 75 newspapers, and this was the second time in three weeks. I think US Airways has a special employee whose job is just to handle Jeffrey’s problems.
Everybody dressed up pretty for the big formal awards banquet tonight. To save money and encourage good moral Christian living NSA had a cash bar at all their events. You had to buy drink tickets from one person and then hand the tickets to the bartender to get the drinks, needlessly interfering with drink-acquisition speed. For the big gala, dinner was filet mignon rather than chicken. They arrived small and overcooked. I think they used the same caterer as United Airlines. The highlight of the evening was the presentation of the CPAE Speakers Hall of Fame awards. They only give out five a year so there are naturally many deserving people in the audience who all want to murder the recipients because they didn’t get one. The final award was the most prestigious honor a speaker could hope to aspire to, short of appearing on Oprah—the Cavett Robert award. Cavett was the founder of NSA and the award in his name recognizes the speaker of the year. This year it went to a personal hero and very classy guy, former National Football League referee Jim Tunney.
After the banquet we walked down a Byzantine series of hallways to another ballroom for the after-dinner dance. As a rule I don’t dance but I do watch. It was fairly subdued despite the best efforts of a good deejay until the speakers’ children decided our sound system was better than the one in their dance and invaded our room. Then it was hopping for the rest of the evening. At the appropriate time, I said my goodbyes to everybody and cabbed back to the Westin to rest up for my flight back to LA tomorrow.
[Note: yesterday's issue was incorrectly labeled Part 2. It should have been Part 3---Richard]
Cruising the Potomac
Kevin and I took Neverlost over to the Marriott and arrived just in time for lunch, which was a chilled melon soup that tasted like they used mostly the peels followed by meatloaf. Desert was a very nice zabaglione with berries. We listened to various speakers enjoy the privilege of being called upon to speak to the entire NSA, then said goodbye to Kevin as he took off for National Airport and his Northwest flight back to Minneapolis.
Jeffrey and I went to return my rental car given that the rate was set to double for the next two days. We used the downtown return location at 901 K St. Just as we were about to make a left turn into the cramped garage, the Griswolds pulled up in their 1970 robin’s-egg-blue two-tone paneled station wagon and decided to drive over the severe tire damage into the tiny garage with their beater and family of six. They said something to the incredulous attendant and we all watched as dad made a neat nine-point turn to get out of the garage. Finally I got in and waited a couple minutes in line to return the car. I complained about Neverlost getting lost and got credited for half the $15 fee.
We hailed a cab back to the Marriott ($8.50) and I waited in the concierge lounge while Jeffrey changed. At a convention with 2000 speakers there are a fair number of Marriott Platinums and so the lounge was packed. They had a couple of trays of unremarkable appetizers and I asked for and received a glass of wine only to be handed a bill for $6 a few minutes later. A spectacular afternoon thundershower entertained us and we saw lighting strike a building right across the street.
For tonight, Theo had chartered a boat for 30 of his closest friends. We boarded a bus in front of the Marriott and drove to the river. Tide was low so we had to step down onto a chair to board. Theo had provided us with excellent food, a great karaoke deejay, and most importantly invited most of the best-looking women at the convention. Nobody was taking the mike so I broke the ice by singing “America the Beautiful.” Tears were coming to people’s eyes but when we got out of the smoggy part of the city that stopped. We had an excellent party for three hours, the thunderstorm miraculously raging everywhere but over our boat, then turned around and docked in Old Town Alexandria. The bus took us back to DC and let some people off at a cigar bar at 18th and M so I got off and walked the few blocks to the Westin and crashed.
I woke up early to a peach of a day in Beantown. Out my west-facing window I could see all the way from MIT across the river from me to the Citgo sign down by Fenway Park. I used the video checkout and headed to the airport to catchan earlier flight back to DC. The taxi driver decided that since he didn’t want to stay at the airport he would charge me an extra $1.50 for half the tunnel fare back to Boston. I told him that wasn’t what the sign said but paid it anyway although I lightened up the tip a bit. It was probably a net profit to him of $1. Traffic was light at the US Airways checkin. A friendly agent with a thick Boston accent got me on the 9:00 flight in seat 1C.
I wheeled by Au Bon Pain and saw a huge line for coffee so I kept going. At the gate, US Airways had rack after rack of complimentary magazines—more than a dozen different titles and ones you might want to read. On weekdays they have complimentary juice and coffee. They should talk to the LAX Red Carpet Club management and learn that you can’t do that because customers will take them all and there won’t be any left.
There was a satellite Au Bon Pain near the gate, fully stocked with pastries but with no customers. I approached to buy some coffee and encountered a non-English-speaking attendant who could neither sell me a cup of coffee, tell me when they would open, nor explain why they weren’t. I wheeled back to the other Au Bon Pain but there was still a huge line so I noticed Auntie Anne’s pretzel shop had coffee and went over there to get a cup of decaf ($1.05). I asked the girl if it was pronounced “Anti Ann” or “Ahntie Ahn.” She looked bemused for a moment but then said, “Anti Ann.” I grinned wildly and wheeled back to the gate.
Boston had apparently undergone lobstermania since the last time I’d been there. All the gift shops stocked, in addition to the usual combination of Red Sox and Harvard paraphernalia, all manner of lobster gewgaws. There were stuffed lobsters, lobster hats, lobster pens, lobster shot glasses, and lobster barbecue aprons. I thought lobsters came from Maine although I know at one time Boston had a professional tennis team called the Lobsters, which I thought was cute.
The flight boarded quite early at 9:25. The plane had been sitting at the gate at least an hour before scheduled departure unlike United Shuttle. Once again the load was extremely light and I had the row to myself. The flight attendants were friendly and professional and the flight went uneventfully with a drink service. There was a thick low cloud layer at National so I couldn’t see the sights as we landed.
I took a taxi to the Westin. The driver of course didn’t turn on the meter, which isn’t used in DC, but he didn’t have a working odometer either. I think he had it removed for luck, but he remembered what the miles formerly were and charged me $10.75 plus the $1.75 airport fee. I believed him and paid it with a tip. The Westin personnel greeted me repeatedly by name like a scene out of The Graduate. This time they had booked me in a mere junior suite but it was not yet ready so I checked my luggage with the bellman and headed off to the Marriott.
Neverlost took me on a different route every time between the Westin and the Marriott. She would always get lost halfway there and then pick up the route when she got back in touch with the satellites. It was only a mile and a half but it was an adventure.
I found Jeffrey, Teresa, and Kevin in time for lunch, which was boneless chicken breast in a Dijon cream sauce with three shrimp on the side, sort of a surf and cluck. The after-lunch entertainment was a comedy juggling act called Passing Zone, whose patter was far better than their juggling. Later on, the famous family counselor Gary Smalley gave a talk. It’s mostly talking at the NSA, with schmoozing in between the talking. We returned for dinner, chicken again, and more entertainment-cum-speaker showcasing. Kevin and I returned to my suite at the Westin and talked late into the night before retiring.
We spent the morning walking around Georgetown. We breakfasted at a nearby café called Bread and Chocolate where they had a weekend brunch special: soup or salad, espresso, juice or soft drink, entrée, and bread basket for $10.95. I had the smoked salmon platter with a great americano and Caesar salad. Later we walked to a mall and did some shopping. I like shopping with Jeffrey because he give complimentary sales and customer-service mini-seminars while he shops.
All of a sudden it was one thirty and I had to rush back to the hotel to get ready for my flight to Boston, where I was overnighting to be at a surprise 40th birthday party for Bill. I stowed my Andiamo whale with Kevin and took my Briggs & Reilly 21-inch expandable wheeled carry-on with garment carrier down to the lobby to catch a cab to National Airport. I had booked the US Airways Shuttle to get in and out easily since I was on a very tight schedule, wanting to miss as little of the convention as possible.
The cab driver, a black man 10 days shy of his 65th birthday, told me a rambling country tale about a young man who was weaving in and out of traffic in his Camaro and got punished by a pack of vigilante truckers who boxed him in for five miles until they escorted him, white-knuckled and trembling, into a rest stop where they watched him shake as he tried to eat his soup. It was all about respect for the road, he told me. He charged me by calculating the distance he drove in his head from some scrawlings on a piece of white paper tucked in his visor. Washington cabs have no meters.
There was no line at the Shuttle check-in, which was good since I had no status. I asked for an aisle seat as far forward as possible and got 2C. I arrived at gate 45 just after the previous flight had left so I had an hour to wait. I decided to call United and switch my return flight to something earlier and not on a 777, since I didn’t want another crappy business-class experience again so soon. I called the 1K line and got put on hold. I figured if I was going to hold I might as well hold for somebody friendly so I hung up and called the Premier Executive line. After about two minutes on hold I got through to a very nice agent who confirmed me in seat 1B on the 1:10 p.m. flight from Dulles to LAX on Wednesday, a 757. Perfect.
The flight boarded about 15 minutes before departure. It was a very light load, only about 30 people in the all-coach Shuttle configuration. I had the whole row to myself. Legroom was quite good but the seat width in coach on the 737 was tighter than an LAX United agent’s fist when handing out upgrades. The flight was perfectly on time and service was identical to United Shuttle with a bag of pretzels and a beverage service on the hour-and-10-minute flight. The crew was pleasant and professional.
Last time I went to Boston it had taken me 90 minutes by car to get into town so this time I took the subway. It turned out that they had decided to perform maintenance on the Blue Line this weekend so they made us all get out after one stop and take a bus through the tunnel to Government Center where we had to walk a quarter-mile uphill, board the Green Line, and resume the trip. It took 45 minutes to get to Copley Square but I finally reached the Westin. It was a gorgeous day in Boston, not too hot or humid and dripping with sunshine. I stood in line at the Starwood Preferred Guest line behind a party of three pediatric gastroenterolosigts in town to the pediatric gastroenterology convention. The clerk finished with them and disappeared. I waited five minutes while the other clerks waited on all the other customers waiting in the regular line and then spoke up.
“Am I wasting my time standing here or is somebody going to work the preferred-customer line?” I said. It felt good to be in Boston where a loud complaint like that was considered perfectly normal. I call Boston my home town. It’s not, but I call it that because I grew up six miles away in Newton. I barely went into Boston at all as a kid but once I got to college I went there with some frequency. Anyway, the clerk I had directed my complaint to came over and graciously worked the SPG line, checking me in. I had been upgraded to an Executive King on the club level and he tried to upgrade my rate from $135 to $165 but I demurred and he backed down. I asked if any suites were available but he said no. He told me the club lounge was open from 7-10 p.m. I asked about hors d’oeuvres and he said, OK, those are available from 5-7 p.m. but don’t say it too loud or everybody will want them. Boston.
I wheeled up to the elevators and waited several minutes to take the local to the 30th floor. My room was an ordinary hotel room with a non-Heavenly bed and a spectacular view of the Charles River. I showered and headed for the club lounge, which was very small and had free booze, which I thought was illegal in Massachusetts. There were only two other people in the lounge. A tray of vegetables and cheeses was almost completely depleted and never replenished. There was a single Internet terminal so I checked FlyerTalk.
Dinner was a short walk to Mistral, reputedly one of the best restaurants in Boston. All Bill’s relatives and a few old friends gathered in the private salon in back to surprise him. Boy was he surprised. Bill and Holly had just returned from two years in Florence with their three small children and were stopping in Boston to visit relatives prior to settling back in Seattle. It was great to welcome them back to America although they were still using “come” and “go” in the context of Italy being their home rather than here. Bill’s mom must be incredibly proud of her four boys. Bill retired from Microsoft one of the highest-regarded technical managers there to raise a happy family. And the next youngest is a doctor.
Dinner was nothing short of phenomenal top to bottom. The restaurant had a spacious, high-ceilinged, understated atmosphere. Service was tops. Waiters brought around appetizers as we all mingled for a long time, catching up. The first course once we were seated was a chilled melon soup with champagne sorbet. Then we had a choice of veal chop, lamb, or sea bass. I had the veal, which was great, but scammed a taste of lamb, which was nothing short of phenomenal. Dessert was chocolate cake and ice cream and the two wines were excellent. But Bill was the highlight of course, a rare man who goes through life leaving a trail of loyal friends who would do anything for him. Happy birthday Bill!
Bob and I ambled back to the Westin. He was the other old friend from Microsoft and had made the mistake of booking United from Seattle, resulting in an unexpected overnight stay in Denver. He told me the outrageous story of how one flight after another was delayed or cancelled. United is burning goodwill so fast it’s scary.
I came back to my hotel room to find my message light flashing. On the voicemail were two identical copies of a long recorded message made by a woman with a heavy accent telling me to use the video checkout in the morning. I called the automated wake-up service and set a call for 7:30 so I would have time to write before my 10 a.m. flight back to DC.
Every year I go to the annual convention of the National Speakers Association, traditionally held in the hottest part of the country in the hottest part of the year. This year it was in Washington, DC, in August. I took a taxi to LAX. The driver spoke Russian into his cell phone the entire trip but loaded and unloaded my bags so I rounded up the $11.90 fare to $14. There were three people in front of me checking in with the unsmiling 1K/First Class agents so I waited a couple minutes and checked one of my bags nonstop to Dulles. I went to the Red Carpet Club to verify that there were no newspapers and decided to speak to the manager of the club about it. She blamed the customers for taking the newspapers. I suggested they get more. That way the customers can take them and they’ll still have more. She kept complaining about the customers walking off with newspapers that cost less than the complimentary coffee and soda. Then I asked about biscotti. It turned out it was 10:30, half an hour past biscotti time but before cookie time. She kindly offered to get me a couple from the back room and I accepted.
I headed to gate 72 and verified with the unsmiling gate agent that there would be no vaunted double-upgrades given today. Nevertheless I had seat 8H on a 777, one of my favorites. I handed my ticket to the ticket-taker, smiling for a change, walked down the Jetway and turned left.
This aircraft had the older seats without lumbar massage but with personal video. My seat opponent snoozed the entire flight. I got a cup of decaf to dip my biscotti in. A male flight attendant announced the rules for storing baggage three times. We sat on the ground for 40 minutes then took off to the west through a moderate marine layer. There was a choice of two movies: 28 Days starring Sandra Bullock and Where the Money Is starring Paul Newman. I chose the latter, which was fun if clichéd.
There were no menus, which seems to be a more and more common occurrence. Lunch service started with a pasty multi-layered lox-and-cream-cheese sandwich on pumpernickel, served on the same tray with a green salad with walnuts. I had a glass of an unremarkable French red wine. Then the stewardess came to take my order for the entrée. “Veal, chicken, or tortellini,” she said. I didn’t have the energy to ask her for further detail, such as how the dishes were prepared, so I said that chicken sounded safest. It came with a Dijon cream sauce and was moist and tasty, served with wild rice and snow peas. The gentleman across the aisle had the veal, which looked nice. It was a cubical cut but I couldn’t tell how overdone it was. I passed on the official dessert of United Airlines, Eli’s praline cheesecake, and watched the employees eat the Ben & Jerry’s ice-cream sundaes.
After my movie ended I switched to the PBS Baseball series, still playing after several months. Finally all six channels had stopped so I took matters into my own hands and asked the purser to restart the video as it had ended. “Which one?” She asked. “Why—all of them,” I said. “All six channels have ended.” She seemed really confused, as if it had never occurred to her to restart the video program before, or that all six channels were about the same length. When she did restart the program, it turned out that she put on the westbound movies instead of simply restarting the eastbound ones, so now I’ve seen three-quarters of Where the Heart Is starring Natalie Portman in her first grown-up role.
The business-class crew spent the rest of the flight ignoring us and eating Ben & Jerry’s ice-cream sundaes so I went back and asked for a glass of water. The purser stopped the video presentation and asked passengers to put their seat backs upright a full 35 minutes before we landed and 10 minutes before the captain requested it. I saw no reason the video should have been stopped what could possibly be unsafe about letting the video play, and then just before landing make an announcement to stow the video units? It’s typically American to sacrifice quality of life for the illusion of safety. Further galling, five minutes before landing, she once again said that we were on the “honor system” of putting the seat backs up. Did that mean I could have been comfortable for an extra half-hour? These crews seem to have very little concern for passenger comfort.
On the ground, I took the lunar module to the baggage-claim area and got my bag relatively quickly. I took the Hertz shuttle to the Gold area and asked the agent if I could upgrade to Neverlost. No problem. Curiously, he didn’t tell me what the additional charge would be but I looked on the contract and it looked like just a couple of dollars for the upgrade to full-size and of course the $5 Neverlost fee. It was a very quick drive to the Westin Grand.
The valet and front desk at the Westin Grand were both extremely friendly. When I got up to my room I saw double doors and knew it was going to be good. Sure enough, the doors opened onto the ultra-luxurious Royal Suite. This was the poshest room Starwood had ever put me in. It must have been close to 1000 square feet. The living room had a dining table for 12, a breakfast nook, a dozen chairs and two sofas, lamps and art everywhere. The bedroom was larger than a regular hotel room, and of course had the Heavenly Bed. There was a fruit basket waiting for me along with a note from the general manager. I paid an embarrassing $89 for this. My Platinum angel had hinted to me that she thought they were going to be good to me and boy, did she come through. If this were United they’d have the housekeeping staff living in this room.
I met Kevin at the hotel and we popped a half-bottle of Taittinger from the mini-bar ($20) before driving over to the Marriott by the zoo where the convention was. Neverlost got lost on the way and took us on a scenic tour of the zoo. We had a burger in Harry’s Pub and waited for Jeffrey and Teresa, who had been sitting in the Charlotte airport all day and finally got diverted to Baltimore. They arrived and we schmoozed for a couple hours before returning to the Westin and retiring.
Richard Brodie richard@... www.memecentral.com/rbrodie.htm
I had a few hours to play Pai Gow Poker before my 3:56 flight back to Los Angeles so I hunkered down at the most crowded table and won some more money from Park Place Entertainment. Jailer and Craig6z had left early in the morning to drive home so it was just me and the dealer. Around noon I got hungry and I thought of Arnie the Compmeister so I asked the supervisor for a comp for Lindy’s deli. Twenty minutes later a casino host showed up and wrote me the comp so I cashed in my winnings, took down the marker I had started the trip with, and had a nice Reuben sandwich on bread that was a little soft to be good rye but it wasn’t rotten or anything.
I played Pai Gow Poker a little more and won even more money before it was time to go up and pack. Instead of checking out I went to the casino host office and asked them to comp everything. They were happy to take care of everything except the tip on lunch and $3 worth of local phone calls. Neither the casino host nor I could figure out why they couldn’t comp the phone calls, which of course cost the hotel nothing, but he said they never comp movies, tips, or phone calls. I guess they figure if your watching a movie or making a phone call you’re not gambling and it’s bad for business so they don’t want to encourage it. He said they only comp phone calls for HHonors Gold and Diamond. Well what do you know? I raised my eyebrows and said, “But monsieur—I am Gold.” He immediately took off the $3 in phone calls.
I thanked the host and prepared to catch the free shuttle to the airport when I felt Arnie-Wan Compnobie’s astral projection whispering in my ear—“Use the comp, son.” So I said, “And could I get a ride to the airport?” He immediately picked up the phone and arranged for a ride. I told him 20 minutes, which gave me a chance to play a little Deuces Wild in the high-limit slots room. I found a machine that let me play three hands at once for $5 a hand. The lady next to me hit two Five of a Kinds and two Four Deuces while I treaded water. Attendants kept coming up to her wheeling buckets of money to pay her.
I went to the bell desk and found that my luggage had already been loaded into a white stretch limo. The bellman whisked me to the airport, a 10-minute drive, and dropped me right at the United checkin counter. I tipped him $5 but he looked disconcerted. I’m not sure if it wasn’t enough or something else was on his mind.
There was no line at the First Class/Premier checkin and only one person in the regular line. A very friendly (like everyone in Reno) agent looked up at me, smiled, and said, “I’ll be right with you, sir.” He checked me in quickly and I told him I appreciated the acknowledgement. There was time to play a little more Deuces Wild before checking in so I hit a Wild Royal Flush for $125. This trip was as winning as the last one was losing and I ended up close to even for the two trips—ahead if I considered the value of the comps, of course.
The United Shuttle to LAX boarded on time. I had seat 1A, my second-favorite seat on the Shuttle. My seat opponent was a young man who had just finished 11 years as a naval officer and was making up for lost drinking time. We were overweight due to heat and altitude so we waited while they kicked off a couple of space-available employees from coach. We took off about a half-hour late but got a rare pre-flight drink service while we waited. The August Hemispheres was in the aircraft a day early. Once again service on this Shuttle was first-rate. Apparently the LA and Denver crews are just consistently in better moods than the Seattle ones.
We landed a half-hour late. Hunnybear met me at the secret place and whisked me home to a splendid dinner of Salmon à la Hunnybear. We went for a nice walk under the friendly skies and talked about how lucky we were.
[Response was overwhelmingly in favor of sending out the actual text of my trip reports, so... you got it!---QuietLion]
We Got the Passes
Jailer got backstage passes for the Go-Gos concert so I booked a flight on United Shuttle to join him and Craig6zin Reno for an overnight stay at the Reno Hilton. Hunnybear hadn’t driven my white Pontiac convertible for some time so she climbed into the driver’s seat and whisked me to LAX. It took eight minutes flat to get from the apartment to the airport and another eight minutes to get to the United terminal. I kissed Hunnybear goodbye and went through secret security to the Red Carpet Club where I picked up a couple of biscotti for the trip. The line at the Red Carpet Club to check in was long so I went to the secret Premier Executive checkin desk on the way to the Shuttle Terminal, which should be called Terminal 8 but is just called part of Terminal 7. I saw the guy in front of me use a coveted Time-Verified Upgrade for the short flight to Reno. I mean he spent something worth maybe $150 if he used it cross-country on this piddly little flight. It made me cringe.
I was really getting the hang of this Shuttle flying because I then went to Starbucks for a decaf to drink with the biscotti. With a little effort you could make do-it-yourself premium service. We boarded on time and I settled into seat 1C. Service was friendly and efficient on this one-hour flight but we had a bit of a queue to take off so we left about fifteen minutes late. My seat opponent was a retired United flight engineer who pointed out geographical landmarks along the way. He said the word from the pilot’s union was that the outlook was good for ending the labor troubles soon.
We landed as we took off, fifteen minutes late. I wheeled past the slot machines to door D and caught the free shuttle to the Reno Hilton. It was the nicest casino in Reno, about the quality of Harrah’s or Bally’s on the Vegas Strip. Of course in Reno they hit soft 17, which gave the house an extra half a percent advantage. I wheeled past a long line over to the VIP/Crystal Club/Casino Guest/HHonors checkin. I blew the dust off my HHonors gold card and asked if any upgrades were available. As has almost invariably been my experience at Hiltons, the clerk said I was in luck and that he had something nice for me. It was a large room on the 16th floor (bottom half of the hotel) with a view of the airport. As has almost invariably been my experience at Hiltons, I failed to see any difference between the “upgraded” room and any other room in the hotel.
I said not a word but went straight down to play Pai Gow Poker. My luck was running like fat juicy trout this trip as I could do no wrong and quickly built up a nice cushion of winnings by the time Craig6z and Jailer arrived. I played a little Three-Card Poker, a new game that was fun but had a high house advantage especially considering how many hands they can get in in an hour. I went upstairs to www.thewizardofodds.com to learn how to play. It was easy. Bet with a Queen-6-4 or higher, fold otherwise. I hit a straight and a flush and left ahead by a bit.
I met the boys in the lobby, ascertained that their room was exactly the same as mine but four floor higher, and looked for someplace to get a bite. We settled on Chevy’s, a mediocre Mexican restaurant chain right in the hotel lobby. I ordered fajitas but they brought four chicken satays on a bed of sliced zucchini. I complained about paying $11.95 for four strips of chicken and the waitress offered to bring more chicken for another $3-$4. I declined.
The boys and I went over to Jailer’s friend’s art gallery, Richardson Gallery, and looked at a huge selection of high-quality art by contemporary artists. Craig6z and I were astonished that such a place could be in Reno, Nevada. Jailer wanted a more in-depth look so Craig6z and I wandered over to the Atlantis casino and played a bit. Craig6z got hoovered at everything but the trout were still running for me. I hit Five of a Kind at Deuces Wild and cashed out ahead $70. I even won $13 at Monopoly.
We went back and changed for the show. It was a triple bill of Eighties bands: The Psychedelic Furs, The B-52s, and the Go-Gos. The venue was the “Reno Hilton Amphitheater,” actually a bunch of bleachers set up in the parking lot. The Furs opened at seven o’clock straight up and played a passionate 40-minute set to the sparse crowd, concluding with hits “Pretty in Pink” and “Heaven.” It took 30 minutes to change for the next band but then the B-52s came on an performed a brilliant set of all their best songs, beginning with “Private Idaho” and saving hits “Love Shack” and “Rock Lobster” for the end along with a personal favorite, “Planet Claire.” The band had aged gracefully and still looked like they were having fun weaving their offbeat lyrics with the distinctive voices of the three lead singers. It was worth coming just for them.
We all awaited the entrance of the Go-Gos, whom we had backstage passes to see. They opened with hit “Vacation” and played energetically through an hour of songs that most people weren’t too familiar with until they concluded with their other two hits, “We’ve Got the Beat” and “Islands of Seals”—I mean, “Our Lips Are Sealed.” Funny how, if you mishear the lyrics to a song the first time you hear it, it sticks with you.
After an upbeat but unfamiliar encore we headed backstage. They kept us waiting for ten minutes but we finally got to meet the band. The experience was kind of like running into the 37-year-old woman who used to be the 17-year-old girl in high school that you had a crush on but never gave you the time of day. She was generous and kind with her time now, but the intensity just wasn’t there. All three bands put on good shows, but the distracted crowd of 4000 watching these once-popular groups sobered me to just how fleeting fame is.
The show ran much longer than I had thought so the reservations I had made at the Reno Hilton’s steakhouse (called “The Steak House”) were dead and buried. The only place open at the Hilton was that rat-trap Chevy’s so we climbed into Craig6z’s Audi and headed to the Peppermill where we had a fine dinner although there was no chance to get it comped. I had a Joe’s Special ($5.99) which was good although not up to Grande Luxe Café standards. We headed back to the Hilton and Jailer and I played Pai Gow Poker into the wee hours. I won even more before going up to my upgraded room and crashing.