hi all we parted out a 154 loboy some hilites running engine, hydro pump,
fenders, high flotation rear tires and fronts radiator, frame with steering
column, pto pulley.plus many parts not listed  the pto creeper trans shaft
are sold the items are in near lancaster pa ph 717 336 3411 for prices
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <bakerofnc@...>
To: <ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 9:44 PM
Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Grill


> Looking for grill work for a 184. It has the black wire mesh so only
> need the 9 (?) square part in front. Can e-mail me direct.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> ihcubloboyseries-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

does any one know where i can get a new voltage reulator for my
starter generator for my cub 185

does any one know where i could get some wheel spacers for my cub 185
please email at freitas218@... thanks

We recently purchased a 184.  The engine oil level was above full and
we removed the excess oil when we got the tractor home.  This brought
the oil level down to the full mark.

Now the oil level is above full again.  We suspect that the hydraulic
oil is leaking into the crankcase, but are not sure how to check the
hydraulic oil level?

Can someone tell us how to check the hydraulic oil level?

Thanks in advance,

nschlief

I run a Mott flail mower off of the three point hitch on my 154, it
works great.  I can engage or disengage the mower perfectly. When
the mower is removed however the PTO spins, engaged or not.   Any
slight drag on the PTO causes it to stop, but with no drag it is
always spinning.  Do I need to make a cluth adjustment or is there
something worn out? Any advise is appreciated......Steve

I would suspect water in the oil (from a blown head gasket). Check
the radiator to see if the level is dropping in relation to the oil
level rising.

Does the oil have a creamy brown foam on the top (like a cup of hot
chocolate)? This would indicate water mixed into the oil.

I'm not certain about the hydrolic fluid having a way to get into the
oil, but I've experienced the water/oil thing in a car a used to own
(a time long, long ago; in a galaxy far, far away...). Didn't figure
it out until it started overheating.

good luck,

Steve

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Schlief
<nschlief@y...>" <nschlief@y...> wrote:
> We recently purchased a 184.  The engine oil level was above full
and
> we removed the excess oil when we got the tractor home.  This
brought
> the oil level down to the full mark.
>
> Now the oil level is above full again.  We suspect that the
hydraulic
> oil is leaking into the crankcase, but are not sure how to check
the
> hydraulic oil level?
>
> Can someone tell us how to check the hydraulic oil level?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> nschlief

Oops, I forgot the original question. To check the hydraulic fluid
you unscrew the plug on the back of the transmision. If you can stick
your finger in and get hydraulic fluid on it, then you're full. (the
tranny is the "reservoir" for the hydraulic system.

Steve

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, sjfoss2002 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> I would suspect water in the oil (from a blown head gasket). Check
> the radiator to see if the level is dropping in relation to the oil
> level rising.
>
> Does the oil have a creamy brown foam on the top (like a cup of hot
> chocolate)? This would indicate water mixed into the oil.
>
> I'm not certain about the hydrolic fluid having a way to get into
the
> oil, but I've experienced the water/oil thing in a car a used to
own
> (a time long, long ago; in a galaxy far, far away...). Didn't
figure
> it out until it started overheating.
>
> good luck,
>
> Steve
>
> --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Schlief
> <nschlief@y...>" <nschlief@y...> wrote:
> > We recently purchased a 184.  The engine oil level was above full
> and
> > we removed the excess oil when we got the tractor home.  This
> brought
> > the oil level down to the full mark.
> >
> > Now the oil level is above full again.  We suspect that the
> hydraulic
> > oil is leaking into the crankcase, but are not sure how to check
> the
> > hydraulic oil level?
> >
> > Can someone tell us how to check the hydraulic oil level?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > nschlief

Check out EBAY, item # 3309949345

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, freitas218 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> does any one know where i can get a new voltage reulator for my
> starter generator for my cub 185

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, sjfoss2002 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> Check out EBAY, item # 3309949345
>
> --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, freitas218 <no_reply@y...>
> wrote:
> > does any one know where i can get a new voltage reulator for my
> > starter generator for my cub 185

I GOT MINE FROM A LOCAL BATTERY COMPANY THAT REBUILDS STARTERS AND
GENERATORS.  THEY KNEW THE REPLACEMENT I NEEDED.

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, sjfoss2002 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> Check out EBAY, item # 3309949345
>
> --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, freitas218 <no_reply@y...>
> wrote:
> > does any one know where i can get a new voltage reulator for my
> > starter generator for my cub 185

I GOT MINE FROM A LOCAL BATTERY COMPANY THAT REBUILDS STARTERS AND
GENERATORS.  THEY KNEW THE REPLACEMENT I NEEDED.

What parts if any, are interchangable between the 3 loboy models?
Particular, any change over to a 184? Also, on E-bay what is the
search title/name for any loboy items?

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "histonman30
<bakerofnc@c...>" <bakerofnc@c...> wrote:
> What parts if any, are interchangable between the 3 loboy models?
> Particular, any change over to a 184? Also, on E-bay what is the
> search title/name for any loboy items?

It might be a smaller list if you asked what DOESN'T interchange. I
have a 185. I know that the 184 is fancier in that it has a separate
starter (rather than a starter/generator) as well as an electric PTO
clutch. And red paint (can't forget that!). I would also be
interested to know of other differences.

My search on EBAY is set to ("lo boy",loboy). Other folks might have
found a better search pattern.

Have fun!

Steve

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Schlief
<nschlief@y...>" <nschlief@y...> wrote:
> We recently purchased a 184.  The engine oil level was above full
and
> we removed the excess oil when we got the tractor home.  This
brought
> the oil level down to the full mark.
>
> Now the oil level is above full again.  We suspect that the
hydraulic
> oil is leaking into the crankcase

Well, you are likely correct.  The hydraulic pump, located at the
lower left front of the engine is driven off the cam gear which is in
the crankcase.  If your pump is leaking then you surely are going to
keep getting more & more oil in the crankcase. Seems some folks here-
a-bouts need to go to www.binderbooks.com & start buying some
Operators, Service & Parts manuals if you get told otherwise. A pump
rebuild kit isn't too expensive & fairly easy to do. Myron

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, sjfoss2002 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> Check out EBAY, item # 3309949345
>
> --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, freitas218 <no_reply@y...>
> wrote:
> > does any one know where i can get a new voltage reulator for my
> > starter generator for my cub 185

I got mine from www.valu-bilt.com. About $30

The unit works great.

If any members are interested I will cover the shipping.Having
trouble with this link,if it doesn't work go to ebay and type the
item number.....Mike




       http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=26193&item=3310651750&rd=1

I am looking to buy a grill and fiberglass nose for my 154. Also I am
painting the tractor.Are the components that are white,an IH white or
another shade of white? Hard to tell from pictures. Thank you

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "jarhead662512
<bseals2002@a...>" <bseals2002@a...> wrote:
> I am looking to buy a grill and fiberglass nose for my 154. Also
I am
> painting the tractor.Are the components that are white,an IH
white or
> another shade of white? Hard to tell from pictures. Thank you

The grill and nose piece can be found here
http://www.wengers.com/parts/parts_detail.asp?mscssid=3KA6
FPL20SXQ8LK4ST0A7J0K1L2T4JJA&whse=01&make=IH&mod
el=154&component=14&part=404686R

Steve

I too have noticed this on my 1984. My local IH "guru" who runs a
repair shop tells me this is normal but whether he's blowing smoke is
anyones guess. I too have the Mott - a real weapon of mass
destruction - particularly in creeper mode. Richard

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Steve W.
<wittefamily@h...>" <wittefamily@h...> wrote:
> I run a Mott flail mower off of the three point hitch on my 154, it
> works great.  I can engage or disengage the mower perfectly. When
> the mower is removed however the PTO spins, engaged or not.   Any
> slight drag on the PTO causes it to stop, but with no drag it is
> always spinning.  Do I need to make a cluth adjustment or is there
> something worn out? Any advise is appreciated......Steve

Just wanted to know if you recieved payment for the clutch.Email me!
Thanks!

For what its worth, both the PTO shafts on Super "A" tractors spin. Can take
hold of either one and they stop.

hi yes and clutch left yeserday thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "rbsfarmalls" <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
To: <ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 4:12 PM
Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Calling Ray Weaver!


> Just wanted to know if you recieved payment for the clutch.Email me!
> Thanks!
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> ihcubloboyseries-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Got 'er today!Thanks!

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, bakerofnc@c... wrote:
> For what its worth, both the PTO shafts on Super "A" tractors spin.
Can take
> hold of either one and they stop.

Given that the 154 and the 185 both use the "roto-cam" mechanical
clutch, it's not surprising that the PTO output shaft spins when not
loaded by an implement attachment. The clutch relies upon clutch
plates rotating on the output shaft and spun by the cup on the
intermediated PTO shaft while disengaged. The friction against the
plates and the contact with the cup will cause the output shaft to
rotate unless loaded. The same closeness of the clutch plates and
friction discs is what allows the roto-cam clutch to operate when it's
"cammed" into operation. The movement of the actuating plates on the
ball bearings forces the plates and discs together providing solid
drive to the pto shaft.
Sorry, but I just re-read what I wrote and it's really boring. You get
the picture very quickly once you take one of these units apart to
rebuild it. I've done it about 3 times....
Regards,
Barry

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Barry <barry_s_u@h...>"
<barry_s_u@h...> wrote:
> --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, bakerofnc@c... wrote:
> > For what its worth, both the PTO shafts on Super "A" tractors
spin.
> Can take
> > hold of either one and they stop.
>
> Given that the 154 and the 185 both use the "roto-cam" mechanical
> clutch, it's not surprising that the PTO output shaft spins when not
> loaded by an implement attachment. The clutch relies upon clutch
> plates rotating on the output shaft and spun by the cup on the
> intermediated PTO shaft while disengaged. The friction against the
> plates and the contact with the cup will cause the output shaft to
> rotate unless loaded. The same closeness of the clutch plates and
> friction discs is what allows the roto-cam clutch to operate when
it's
> "cammed" into operation. The movement of the actuating plates on the
> ball bearings forces the plates and discs together providing solid
> drive to the pto shaft.
> Sorry, but I just re-read what I wrote and it's really boring. You
get
> the picture very quickly once you take one of these units apart to
> rebuild it. I've done it about 3 times....
> Regards,
> Barry

I have to say that no, this isn't boring. I might not need this
information now (hopefully never), but I'm sure that there will be
someone, someday that will find it useful. You guys that have been
around these tractors for a long time are a GOLD MINE for those of us
that are just now discovering the "fun" of working on this tractor.
Keep those nuggets coming. Thanks Barry. Thanks to all.

Steve

Johnny Products is looking for a Low Boy tractor volunteer to design
a Johnny Bucket for. Will give discount for the service. Tractor must
have a front attachment with it. We are loacted around Milwaukee, WI
and it would take about two weeks to design.
If interested contact us at help@...
Thanks for any help in advance.
John Scheele
Johnny Products, LLC

Thanks guys for featuring my 184 on the home page,that's really
neat....Mike

OK,Got he PTO clutch for my 154 from Ray installed this
afternoon.Took it all apart,cleaned and inspected everything and put
new bearing on the shafts.Everything else looked good.Went in almost
perfectly!Now,when the engine is not running I can easily spin the
pto shaft by hand,start the engine and I cant even hold on to it,its
like the clutch is stuck,I know not the safest thing to do.I can stop
the engine and again the pto shaft spins easily.The engine does die
down just a hair when I pull the handle up,but it immediatly picks
back up.Disengage the clutch with no difference in the engine
speed.This wouldnt bother me much if I could stop the pto shaft from
spinning with it running.My old M does that,but I can stop it.I know
theres a big difference there,but what could be wrong.Any ideas?

RBS:

1. The main PTO shaft from the engine to the rear turns with the main
drive shaft. There are two belts  behind the engine that does that.

2. What clutch did you replace-the tractor clutch or the PTO clutch??

3. If the PTO clutch, did you replace & lube those little ole needle
bearing found inside the output shaft??  Careful about the lube. Too
much & it slings up into those DRY friction plates and will cause
them to slip & burn them up!! You do know that that grease zerk on
the output shaft just in front of the rearmost bearing is to lube
those needle bearings I hope.

4. What part of the PTO shaft is it that you can turn freely when the
engine is off. The main shaft or the output shaft?? If the main
shaft, then you need to replace and/or properly adjust the tension on
those two belts on the front. If the output shaft, then the PTO
clutch likely is not assembled with sufficient spacers & the friction
from the engine rpm is causing it to "engage".

5. With two main shafts & two clutches, & the PTO shaft being two
sections, ya have to be very specific when referring to a "shaft".

Hope this helps
Myron

1. The main PTO shaft from the engine to the rear turns with the
main drive shaft. There are two belts  behind the engine that does
that.
2. What clutch did you replace-the tractor clutch or the PTO clutch??
3. If the PTO clutch, did you replace & lube those little ole needle
bearing found inside the output shaft??  Careful about the lube. Too
much & it slings up into those DRY friction plates and will cause
them to slip & burn them up!! You do know that that grease zerk on
the output shaft just in front of the rearmost bearing is to lube
those needle bearings I hope.
4. What part of the PTO shaft is it that you can turn freely when the
engine is off. The main shaft or the output shaft?? If the main
shaft, then you need to replace and/or properly adjust the tension on
those two belts on the front. If the output shaft, then the PTO
clutch likely is not assembled with sufficient spacers & the friction
from the engine rpm is causing it to "engage".
5. With two main shafts & two clutches, & the PTO shaft being two
sections, ya have to be very specific when referring to a "shaft".


Answers #1 NEW belts and tightened properly
         #2 PTO clutch,I thought I said that,sorry if I didnt.
         #3 Everything cleaned and greased right,not too much not to
little.
         #4 The output shaft.You could be right!
         #5 Sorry for the misinformation.

> Answers #1 NEW belts and tightened properly
>         #2 PTO clutch,I thought I said that,sorry if I didnt.
>         #3 Everything cleaned and greased right,not too much not to
> little.
>         #4 The output shaft.You could be right!
>         #5 Sorry for the misinformation.

Hi again RBS: Just trying to identify the problem.

1. Working on this problem will be much easier if the frame cover &
the fender set have been removed.

2. Ref # 3 above: "Everything" gives me absouletly no clue as to what
was "greased".

3. The end of the output shaft in which the main PTO shaft is
inserted has some needle bearings inside. My observation and
experience has been that most owners do not know about the zerk on
the output shaft so they never grease the needle bearings. Its
possible that the needle bearings are frozen or that they have
eaten/split out the end of the output shaft and are binding. In any
case, replace those needle bearings (abt $8). The output shaft is
about $300.00 (ouch). If the fender set & the frame cover have been
removed you can see if this is the problem.

4. The clutch itself may have been improperly assembled (you got
a "used" one didn't you) if someone has ever replaced the clutch
plates. There has to be a requisite number of those little wavy
spring spacers to separate the plates. Easy to screw this up ((:-}
been there & done that). Do you have the Roto-Cam clutch instruction
sheet?? When all else fails, it sure helps to read the instructions.
Do you have the parts & service manuals for the tractor??? All this
is in there. www.binderbooks.com will solve your problem.

5. The engagement/disengagement of the clutch depends on a ball
bearing between the cam plates (one is attached to the handle & the
other to the frame). Pull up the handle & the ball bearing rolls out
of  a detente which allows the plates to engage. Pushing the handle
down rolls the ball bearing onto the detente & releases the plates
from contact. This has to work right or....

Hope this helps. Keep trying & we'll get there. (:-}....
Myron