I am not a professional painter, but plan on spiffing the LoBoy 185 up a bit as
I go along. Any recommendations on what specific colors I should use and perhaps
which spray can paint maker to use?  Not all "whites and Yellows" are the same,
so want to come close to the original.

Anyone have parts for the three point hitch? I am missing the hitch upper link
and handle, and the pins at both ends?

Replaced a leaky hydraulic hose and had the cylinder rebuilt, so the three point
should be ready to use.  -   Art

1974 International Cub Lo-Boy 154. Was running but haven't started it since
spring. Needs tune up and TLC. New battery, Pertronix. Includes hydraulic boom
lift, 60" belly mowing deck, front snow plow, and dirt scoop/ground scoop (not
sure what its called). Does not have 3 pt hitch. Good turf tires on rear, new
tires on front. Spacers for tire chain clearance. Have some spare parts. I know
I'm going to regret selling this, but I don't have the land to cut anymore and I
don't want it to sit. $2000 - Serious offers considered.  See pics posted in
photos section. Thanks for looking.  Dan

I have a 184 IH loboy and need the grill housing. Can any body help? Bill

I have a original seat and seat frame from a 154. Free if you pickup. Ft Wayne
In area.46706

I have the following parts for sale. Most of them are Original IH
International Harvester, Case, and Cub Cadet tractor parts. Some are
new and some are used. Shipping and handling is $3.99 and up in the
U.S.A. Paypal is prefered.  Contact third@...

544836R1 544836 R1 bracket $29.99
545341R1 545341 R1 pulley 19.99
404666r1 404666 r1 Bushing $7.99
453279R91 453279-R91 (36737) bearing $19.99  NOT LISTED
376258-R11 376258R11 Collar Assy, Clutch Release 12.99  NOT LISTED
624607r91 624607 r91 T Acuator $9.99  NOT LISTED
663557-r91 663557r91 BEARING, CONE $9.99  NOT LISTED
3069610r1 3069610 r1 glass bowl $10.99  NOT LISTED
21314D CORE $99.99  NOT LISTED
523092R1 523092 R1 bushing $13.99  NOT LISTED
382499R91 382499 R91 jet / valve $11.99  NOT LISTED
522916R11 522916 R11 pin $9.99  NOT LISTED
403840R1 403840 R1 & 403840R2 403840 R2 rod $14.99  NOT LISTED
751830 r2 751830r2 & 751830r1 751830 R1 valve $19.99  NOT LISTED
406723R1 406723 R1 spring $7.99  NOT LISTED
24415d 24415 d bushing $14.99  NOT LISTED
371524r1 371524 r1 large plate $8.99  NOT LISTED
495425r1 495425 r1 gear $89.99  NOT LISTED
495619R95 495619 R95 Knotter Disc $29.99  NOT LISTED
489391R1 489391 R1 Spindle Housing $39.99  NOT LISTED


MODERATOR'S ADDENDUM:

I've allowed this message to be posted because it does mention SOME
parts used on the 154, 185, and/or 184 tractors -- I don't think the
495619R95 Knotter Disc is one of them !  I looked up all these parts
in the TC-131 Parts Manual, fortunately it has a numeric index.  So
if I did not see a particular number, I have noted it "NOT LISTED" -
19 of the 22 parts are so marked.  I've left them included on the
rare chance that someone is in need of said part(s).

This Group makes no recommendation as to the legitimacy of this
posting.  The member only just joined this Group 4 days ago.  Please
note that the email address for responding is not the same as the
Member's Yahoo I/D email address.  As all the prices (including the
minimum shipping charge) end in .99, plus the Paypal preference, I'm
suspecting this is more of a commercial enterprise.  If anyone has
any questions, concerns, or comments, please privately email the
Group Moderators.

- Dennis Anderson  "Serious Machining"

Got my wiring project completed, all lights working great.  Now on to the next
project.  I found a 1050A loader that had been on a 154 and brought it home. 
will need new hoses and some cleaning, but otherwise good.  I found the manual
online that shows how it goes on etc - but I'm lost on where the pump mounts. 
Pretty sure it mounts on the back of the tractor and attaches to the back of the
big pulley - but not sure how.  If anyone has a good picture of this they could
post up or send that would be much appreciated.

Thanks

I have a 185 Low boy, it starts right up, but stalls after a few seconds, then
won't start, if I let it sit awhile, it will again fire right up then stall out.

Any advice?

I changed the plugs and still the same problem.

Thanks

Steve

Thank you for the advice, I will post updates.

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Darrell Ratliff" <DBigdog@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like a fuel supply problem.   Check the fuel flow to the carburetor. 
If you remove the fuel line the gas should flow full stream for several seconds.
Use a clean container to catch the fuel and you can put it back in the tank.  If
the flow to the carb is good then the blockage is in the carb.  A good cleaning
is in order.
> Make sure the supply valve is fully open and check the cap to make sure the
vents are open.
>
> From: funforanight247@...
> Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 10:05 AM
> To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 Low Boy starting-run
>
>
> I have a 185 Low boy, it starts right up, but stalls after a few seconds, then
won't start, if I let it sit awhile, it will again fire right up then stall out.
>
> Any advice?
>
> I changed the plugs and still the same problem.
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
>

If you ever find a solution, Kirby, please let me know - I am having the
exact same problem. I have changed the coil (twice), installed a
Pertronix ignition module, replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, and HT
wires. This winter I replaced the rings and adjusted the valves,
tightened the fan belt, cleaned the radiator, and I overhauled the
carburetor. I also made a brand new fuel line and re-routed it away from
the exhaust manifold. Nothing has made even the slightest difference. I
now plan my grass cutting in half hour increments and then plan on
letting the tractor sit for an hour before trying to start it up again.
When I put an infrared temperature gauge on the machine (immediately
after it quit), there are no hot spots (aside from the exhaust
manifold), so I don't think it is overheating. Fuel flows freely when I
crack the fuel line.

Hurricane Irene dumped about 6" of rain on my fields, and, with the warm
weather, the grass is just like it is in the Spring. This afternoon, I
cut thick heavy grass for almost exactly 30 minutes with no problem
whatsoever. Then, suddenly, the engine could just barely get me back to
the barn before dying. Like you, I am at a complete loss. I am tempted
to turn a CO2 fire extinguisher on the carburetor to see if the gas is
boiling in the float chamber.

Mike

On 9/14/2011 2:39 PM, Kirby wrote:
> I’m having trouble with my 184. It starts and runs great until good and
> warm then cuts out and dies. I can keep it going long enough to get back
> to the barn by stopping the mower and choking it for a bit. I have
> changed the coil, points condenser, and don’t think it’s vapor locking.
> Any Ideas?
>
> /Kirby C. Antisdel///

I wish you were closer to me. I like a challenge. I had a simular problem with a
JD mower kawasaki engine. A bad ignition trigger module had me going in circles.
And I am the one in my circle they come to with crazy problems :)

Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...> wrote:

>If you ever find a solution, Kirby, please let me know - I am having the
>exact same problem. I have changed the coil (twice), installed a
>Pertronix ignition module, replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, and HT
>wires. This winter I replaced the rings and adjusted the valves,
>tightened the fan belt, cleaned the radiator, and I overhauled the
>carburetor. I also made a brand new fuel line and re-routed it away from
>the exhaust manifold. Nothing has made even the slightest difference. I
>now plan my grass cutting in half hour increments and then plan on
>letting the tractor sit for an hour before trying to start it up again.
>When I put an infrared temperature gauge on the machine (immediately
>after it quit), there are no hot spots (aside from the exhaust
>manifold), so I don't think it is overheating. Fuel flows freely when I
>crack the fuel line.
>
>Hurricane Irene dumped about 6" of rain on my fields, and, with the warm
>weather, the grass is just like it is in the Spring. This afternoon, I
>cut thick heavy grass for almost exactly 30 minutes with no problem
>whatsoever. Then, suddenly, the engine could just barely get me back to
>the barn before dying. Like you, I am at a complete loss. I am tempted
>to turn a CO2 fire extinguisher on the carburetor to see if the gas is
>boiling in the float chamber.
>
>Mike
>
>On 9/14/2011 2:39 PM, Kirby wrote:
>> I’m having trouble with my 184. It starts and runs great until good and
>> warm then cuts out and dies. I can keep it going long enough to get back
>> to the barn by stopping the mower and choking it for a bit. I have
>> changed the coil, points condenser, and don’t think it’s vapor locking.
>> Any Ideas?
>>
>> /Kirby C. Antisdel///
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

All excellent suggestions, Kent. My responses below.

On 9/14/2011 5:58 PM, Kent Morris wrote:
> Mike,
>
>  From previous conversations, I know you are good at thinking things
> through and eventually you will fix the problem. You probably already
> checked, but one thing not in your list is to make sure the fuel cap
> vent is not plugged.
I removed the cap AND ran a wire through the holes. No change.
>
> Another possibility from experience would be the connector on the back
> of he ignition switch. The spade lug connection will begin to breakdown
> and generate heat. This can act like a thermostatic switch. Take a test
> light with you when you mow. When it quits leave the ignition switch ON
> and connect the test light to the "+" coil terminal to check for power.
I checked the voltage at the coil when it stalls, and it is 12.9 volts.
>
> When I replace the ignition switch I use a Borg Warner CS7 with stud
> terminals.
>
> I remember we had a discussion about the alternator resistor (25 ohm).
> Although it looks like an ignition resistor (about 1.8 ohms) it is not
> one. I assume you do not have a resistor between the ignition switch and
> the coil.
>
> I have experienced 154 starting problems with low voltage to the coil.
> Sometimes the first spring start after sitting all winter, it will crank
> but not start. If I connect and external 12 volt source directly to the
> distributor, it will start immediately. My conclusion is that although
> there's enough battery power to crank the little 60 ci engine, there's
> not enough left to make a spark. Could you for some reason not have full
> battery power to your coil?
Again, the engine runs really well initially, but after about 30-40
minutes, it then looses power suddenly and rapidly. Once it dies (or is
shut down), it will not re-start for an hour or more. It turns over
really well, but there is no sign of firing. After an hour, it starts
right up and runs fine again. At one point, I suspected the electronic
ignition module might be breaking down with heat, but swapping it with
an identical module from another IH tractor did change anything. In any
case, I had the same problem when I the OEM ignition components were in
place.

I just uploaded two "Before" and "After" images of the re-routed fuel
lines to my photo album "Mike Sloane's 184". It was a LOT of work and
didn't help at all. I am pretty sure that the problem is heat related,
but which element is getting hot eludes me. I also shielded the fuel
line, and that made no difference at all.

Mike
>
> Good Luck,
> Kent
>
> On Wed, Sep 14, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...
> <mailto:mikesloane@...>> wrote:
>
>     If you ever find a solution, Kirby, please let me know - I am having the
>     exact same problem.

Having a second person working with me would be a BIG help - It is not
possible for someone working alone take measurements while trying to
start the 184. I guess I need to find a way to temporarily bypass the
clutch interlock while the engine is hot.

Mike

On 9/14/2011 6:16 PM, Mark Everett wrote:
> I wish you were closer to me. I like a challenge. I had a simular
> problem with a JD mower kawasaki engine. A bad ignition trigger module
> had me going in circles. And I am the one in my circle they come to with
> crazy problems :)
>
> Mike Sloane <mikesloane@... <mailto:mikesloane%40verizon.net>>
> wrote:
>
>  >If you ever find a solution, Kirby, please let me know - I am having the
>  >exact same problem.

Hey,  I had a similar problem shortly after I bought my 184 several years ago. 
After it got good and warmed up, it would star missing and an occasional
backfire just before it would die out.  It would crank over fine but would not
restart untill it had cooled down.  What I found was the coil was wired
backwards, it was runnig off the secondary ignition instead of the coil.  Once I
swapped the + and - it never miss a beat.
good luck.

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...> wrote:
>
> If you ever find a solution, Kirby, please let me know - I am having the
> exact same problem. I have changed the coil (twice), installed a
> Pertronix ignition module, replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, and HT
> wires. This winter I replaced the rings and adjusted the valves,
> tightened the fan belt, cleaned the radiator, and I overhauled the
> carburetor. I also made a brand new fuel line and re-routed it away from
> the exhaust manifold. Nothing has made even the slightest difference. I
> now plan my grass cutting in half hour increments and then plan on
> letting the tractor sit for an hour before trying to start it up again.
> When I put an infrared temperature gauge on the machine (immediately
> after it quit), there are no hot spots (aside from the exhaust
> manifold), so I don't think it is overheating. Fuel flows freely when I
> crack the fuel line.
>
> Hurricane Irene dumped about 6" of rain on my fields, and, with the warm
> weather, the grass is just like it is in the Spring. This afternoon, I
> cut thick heavy grass for almost exactly 30 minutes with no problem
> whatsoever. Then, suddenly, the engine could just barely get me back to
> the barn before dying. Like you, I am at a complete loss. I am tempted
> to turn a CO2 fire extinguisher on the carburetor to see if the gas is
> boiling in the float chamber.
>
> Mike
>
> On 9/14/2011 2:39 PM, Kirby wrote:
> > I'm having trouble with my 184. It starts and runs great until good and
> > warm then cuts out and dies. I can keep it going long enough to get back
> > to the barn by stopping the mower and choking it for a bit. I have
> > changed the coil, points condenser, and don't think it's vapor locking.
> > Any Ideas?
> >
> > /Kirby C. Antisdel///
>

On 9/15/2011 7:47 AM, Kent Morris wrote:
> Mike,
>
> I guess we could try changing the lug nuts on the left front wheel. What
> else could the problem be?
I am almost ready to try that! :-)
>
> Does the coil get hot? Having the correct coil can be confusing. The
> resistance on the coil terminals should be about 3.5-4 ohms. If the
> resistance is about 2 ohms or a little less, then it's the wrong coil
> and could be overheating.
This is the third coil. One with an external resistor, and two that
stated on the case that they have internal resistors. No difference
whatsoever. I measured the coil outside temperature, and none of them
were any hotter than any other part of the engine - about 182°F. That's
warm but not too hot for a coil. Just for giggles, I am thinking of
trying to bypass the ignition switch with a jumper from the battery to
the coil the next time I encounter this situation. That might help to
eliminate the ignition switch/wiring.
>
> I assume your Pertronix module is a 1442.
Yes.
>
> I believe you mentioned HT wires. Are these carbon fiber rather than
> copper? What plugs are you using? Some people use Autolite 386. These
> are resistive plugs. Maybe a combination of resistive wires with
> resistive plugs could cause a problem. If using Autolite, they should be
> 3116. Many, including myself, shy away from Champion plugs.
They were Autolites, and I changed them out to the manual specified
Champion F15Y(?). I pulled the plugs, and they all looked just fine -
light tan, no sign of either burning or fouling. I observed that one
plug looked a little darker than the other three and subsequently
discovered that the (copper core) plug wire was not in good contact with
the cap terminal. I would not use a resistor plug or resistor wires on a
C60 engine for obvious reasons.
>
> Timing? This is a real stretch, BUT. The pin on the distributor gear has
> fallen out and the gear is slipping on the shaft. My neighbor was
> driving his 350 down the road and suddenly lost power. The pin had
> fallen out of the distributor gear. It doesn't take much to turn the
> shaft so the the gear had enough grip on the shaft to keep turning.
> Maybe when your gear warms up, it slips on the shaft. After it cools, it
> catches a burr at the pin hole and it's back in time until it heats up
> an slips again. Like I said a REAL stretch, but you've covered the easy
> stuff.
I checked the timing after I had the engine apart last winter. I suppose
it is possible that I need to retard the timing a little. It certainly
can't hurt to give that a try (and it is easy enough to do. I also had
the ignition on the 'scope when the engine was running properly, but the
electronic module's pattern isn't as useful as the ones one on a
points/condenser ignition, other than to see that all the cylinders look
the same.
<http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/international_184/ignition-on-the-scope.html\
>


   Again, the situation is that it runs VERY well for the first 30-40
minutes, then rapidly degrades. Everything points to a heat problem, but
what component is heating up is a mystery. It wasn't even very hot
outside yesterday - low 80s. I have four other Farmall Cubs (including
one Lo-Boy), and none of them have this problem. The main differences
(aside from the 184 engine tweaked to put out double the HP at
significantly higher RPM's) are the fuel tank and other fittings much
farther away from the head. Two of the Cubs have been converted to 12
volts and run fine.
>
> I hope not to insult your intelligence by making basic suggestions that
> you are already knowledgeable of. But, sometimes the solution is
> something simple that is overlooked while being focused in the wrong
> direction. The problem certainly suggest it's heat related, but maybe
> it's not.
Agreed.
>
> You've got a real tuffy on your hands. It will be interesting to know
> what the fix will be.
My only consolation is that it appears that others are having the exact
same problem with their 184's, but not with their 154's or 185's. So it
*seems* to be something unique to the 184.

Mike
>
> Kent
>
>

That is certainly a very reasonable story, and I would like to think
that I have everything wired correctly, but I will check once more to
make sure I have it right.

Just for others' information. On a negative ground battery system, the
wire from the ignition switch goes to the "+" terminal on the coil, and
the wire to the distributor goes on the "-" terminal. In the case of the
Pertronics module, the black wire goes to the "-" terminal, and the red
wire goes to the "+" terminal, along with the wire from the ignition switch.

Mike

On 9/15/2011 7:39 AM, pinetreeto wrote:
> Hey, I had a similar problem shortly after I bought my 184 several years
> ago. After it got good and warmed up, it would star missing and an
> occasional backfire just before it would die out. It would crank over
> fine but would not restart untill it had cooled down. What I found was
> the coil was wired backwards, it was runnig off the secondary ignition
> instead of the coil. Once I swapped the + and - it never miss a beat.
> good luck.

Thanks Kent,  I found the Van Sickle International White locally and purchased
some. Am working on painting the hood now, primed and ready to paint when I get
back home from a short trip.
Tried two different local stores and they did not have the yellow.  Offered to
order an IH yellow if I request.
They also mentioned a "Federal yellow" as being appropriate.  Will check out the
number you provided.
I plan on visiting my brothers near Lincoln, NE and if I recall correctly Van
Sickle paints may come from there.  -   Art

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Kent Morris <kmokgm@...> wrote:
>
> Art,
>
> If you are looking for spray cans, you can get Van Sickle International
> White #471, Ag Yellow #450 or International Yellow #454.
>
>  http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/vscolorcard.html
>
> Most farm stores will have IH Yellow and IH White.
>
> For the paint police, my best guess for true color would be to look at the
> Cub Cadet in the same year group. There were two yellows IH483 & IH483B. For
> the 185, most likely IH483B. As for white, three colors of white were used
> IH901, IH902 & IH935. For the 185, most like IH935.
>
>
http://www.ihcubcadet.com/BobsPage/cubpaint.htm+cub+cadet+paint&cd=3&hl=en&ct=cl\
nk&gl=us
>
> Kent
>
> On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 2:41 PM, artsd456 <artsd@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > I am not a professional painter, but plan on spiffing the LoBoy 185 up a
> > bit as I go along. Any recommendations on what specific colors I should use
> > and perhaps which spray can paint maker to use? Not all "whites and Yellows"
> > are the same, so want to come close to the original.
> >
> > Anyone have parts for the three point hitch? I am missing the hitch upper
> > link and handle, and the pins at both ends?
> >
> > Replaced a leaky hydraulic hose and had the cylinder rebuilt, so the three
> > point should be ready to use. - Art
> >
> >
> >
>

I see a post from hamiltonbobcubs.  I tried to telephone the number on the
catalog about a week ago and after a couple of tries could only get a canned
message of "...number has been disconnected or is no longer in use".  What is
the correct telephone to use to place an order?
By the way, purchased my LoBoy 185 at RPR in Albert Lea, MN this summer and
found your catalog under the seat.  Good way  to reach a potential client as
this tractor obviously needs some parts!    -   Art

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, steven paul <f@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: hamiltonbobcubs <rcn@...>
> To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 9:39 AM
> Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] New 154 184 185 parts website and
catalog
>
>
>  
> Kevin,
> We now have a website and catalog for all 154 1894 185 New and Used parts
where you will be able to get a Dipstick.
> www.Hamiltonbobscubs.com
> Thanks
> Bob
> Hamiltonbobscubs
>

Mike, a couple of 'out there' suggestions;

- after you start the 184, take a 4 foot wire with alligator clips on it and
directly wire from the coil + side to the battery + lug. Then go out and do your
mowing. This will eliminate 'all' ignition wiring.

- somewhere I picked up that you were NOT supposed to use solid copper core
wires with the Pertronix ignition module. My son uses 'non-resistor' spark plugs
with resistor carbon core wires. Supposedly the 'electric static' from the solid
copper core ignition wires can cause 'interference' with the ignition module.

- since the Zenith carburetor fuel bowl is internally vented and most of the
carburetor is pretty well sealed up, take a 3 pound coffee can and 'operate' on
it with tin snips to get it pretty well around and up and over the carburetor -
then pack it with 'dry ice' and go out and mow. Even though the dry ice will
evaporate it should extend the mowing period significantly beyond the 30 to 35
minutes. If it does not extend the mowing time, then you have pretty much
eliminated fuel quality and carburetor heat problems.

I know that these are kind of 'off the wall' but that is the best that my
'thinking cap' has to offer. Good Luck - NJDale