ihcubloboyseries : Messages : 12120-12149 of 18018

Take a look at the blade mounted on one of my Farmall Cubs
<http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/other_machinery/cubblade1a.html> and
contact me off-line <mikesloane@...> to work out additional
details. The Cub and the Farmall Cub Lo-boy mounting is virtually
identical, except for some dimensions related to the shorter kingpins.

I can also send you a digital copy of the user manual.

Mike

James Seip wrote:
>
>
> I restored the CUB-54 blade, brackets and hardware etc. and now want to
> install it on by 1956 lo-boy. I'm having difficulty undertanding how
> the curved bracket with the 2 square welded plates mounts to the
> hydolic bracket and how the lift arm attaches to the curved bracket. I
> have a parts breakdown but it doesn't show the attachment detail
> between the lift arm and this curved bracket. The photo is not
> detailedenough to see. It can't bolt solid because it needs to rotate
> as it lifts. The curved bracket is also confusing. Can any one help
> with dialog or details or photos etc? Sorry for this Sr. moment. It's
> probably not as complex as it think. I would like to do it as
> originally designed and not fabricate some made up part. Thanks in
> advance.
>

#12121

From: Michael Georgal <mjgeorgal@...>
Date: Sat Dec 1, 2007 12:22 pm
Subject: Re:1956 lo-boy - installing a CUB-54 Grading and Leveling Blade

mjgeorgal

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Implement%20Manuals/Cub-Grader%20Blade/Cub-54A%20and%20L54%20Grader%20Blade/index.html

cleancomputes.com or tmtractorparts both have manuals online and pictures.

http://www.tm-tractor.com/gim/blade54_001.htm

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

#12122

From: burgertime631
Date: Sat Dec 1, 2007 2:18 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Cub 154 Points?

burgertime631

Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed post.I had a
busy week and am going to tackle it this coming week. I'm looking
forward to attempting. Ill keep you posted with the results.Thanks



  --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Mike Sloane
<mikesloane@...> wrote:
>
> If your timing light has three leads, you clip the red and black
> "alligator" clips to the appropriate terminals on the battery. The
wire
> that looks like a spark plug wire ends in either a somewhat larger
clamp
> that fits over the wire to the No. 1 spark plug wire, or it could
be the
> older type that has a spring-like piece that fits between the
> distributor cap No. 1 terminal and the No. 1 spark plug wire.
>
> With the engine running, you squeeze the "trigger" switch on the
light,
> and the light flashes each time the No. 1 plug fires, "freezing"
the
> motion of the crankshaft pulley. The mark on the pulley will then
be
> seen, and you can move the distributor (very little bit at a time)
to
> move the mark to where the pointed stud is.
>
> This activity is best done out of direct sunlight, as the flash is
often
> not as bright as you would like. Indoors is best (with the door
open!),
> or outdoors on a cloudy day or early/late in the day.
>
> Someone mentioned setting the dwell and that it is critical. I
agree,
> but it is the point gap that determines the dwell, so getting the
gap
> correct will take care of that problem without the need of yet
another
> instrument. I have found that most dwell meters, when you can find
them,
> are not very accurate. Setting the points on the C-60 engine, by
the
> way, is probably one of the most difficult tasks to do properly on
that
> machine, owing to the poor access. I find that it is easier to just
put
> the engine on TDC, remove the distributor, set the points on the
bench,
> and then pop the distributor back in exactly the way it came out
(with
> the rotor in *exactly* the same position). (This sounds like a
difficult
> task, but it really isn't and ultimately saves a lot of time.) It
is
> also easy to look over the rest of the distributor at that time.
>
> You mention an electronic ignition, and that is indeed a good
solution,
> but the Pertronix ignition runs over $100, so I would not make that
> change unless all other alternatives had been exhausted. It has
been my
> experience of late that the quality of the point sets obtained from
> other than Case IH dealers has been very poor - they look fine when
new,
> but the materials in the contacts themselves are sub-standard and
> corrode very quickly, leaving you with poor starting and
performance.
> That has been the reason why I have changed out the ignition on two
of
> my dozen tractors to date. The installation is dead simple and
doesn't
> permanently modify the tractor - reading the directions through
takes
> longer than actually doing the conversion.
>
> See
>
<http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/farmall_340/petronixignition2.html
>
> for an image of the Pertronix ignition installed on a virtually
> identical distributor.
>
> Mike
>
> burgertime631 wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the many suggestions.I have let the machine warm up
and i
> > cleaned plugs. Even dropped the oil pan when i got it. Thought
there
> > would be some gunk from sitting. Just wasted $ on new gasket and
> > shipping for that.I do have a timing gun that i have no idea how
to
> > use. Gonna have to google that today. Not familliar with
electrical
> > systems.I saw a few posts on electronic ignition. Is that a
possible
> > fix for me.
> >
> > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:ihcubloboyseries%40yahoogroups.com>, "outdoors4evr1"
> > <outdoors4evr1@> wrote:
> >  >
> >  > With setting the points, two things are important. Timing &
Dwell.
> >  > The timing can be set mechanically or with a timing light.
> >  > The dwell should be set with a dwell meter.
> >  >
> >  >
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (16)

#12123

From: "snyder.andy" <ancy@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 3:22 am
Subject: Put some things on eBay

snyder.andy

Put some things on eBay under ancy310.  Take a look, and more to
come.  Thanks Andy

Reply | Messages in this Topic (1)

#12124

From: "timoppenheim" <timopp@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 1:48 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

timoppenheim

Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some other
forums some
guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker than the
average car
body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha


--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, designer62@... wrote:
>
> What kind of horror stories?  I sand blast and have not had any
> troubles.
>
> Mike
> Niles, Mi
>
>
>
> timoppenheim wrote:
>
> > The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but not through) in some
> > spots ( near the
> > instrument cowl) I was considering sandblasting, but am reading some
> > horror stories.
> >
> > What's the best way to handle?
> >
> > Thanks tim
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1159 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
11:10 AM
> >
> >
>

#12125

From: "timoppenheim" <timopp@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 2:02 pm
Subject: Hydraulic leaks

timoppenheim

Earlier this year I made a number of posts about the 3 pt on my 154 and through
the
awesome knowledge of this group I have been able to this going again. But, I
always had a
problem with a leak. I assume that any leak under pressure would spray or at
least increase.
On my unit I had the tiniest pin hole right in the elbow underneath the
transmission, but that
thing could drip a quart a week in fluid. I just could get in my head that the
part was bad.

Anyway exhausting everything else I replaced the elbow and that was it. But to
look at it you
can't find the hole.

Thanks to all

Tim

#12126

From: "Dean Sherman" <crosley@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 2:08 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

crosley502003

Sandblasting , we still do some , but it is mess and expense that have caused us to go to chemical strippers. We have the equipment but the mess is just too great and it is not cheap.

----- Original Message -----

From: timoppenheim

To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:48 AM

Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some other forums some
guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker than the average car
body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, designer62@... wrote:
>
> What kind of horror stories? I sand blast and have not had any
> troubles.
>
> Mike
> Niles, Mi
>
>
>
> timoppenheim wrote:
>
> > The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but not through) in some
> > spots ( near the
> > instrument cowl) I was considering sandblasting, but am reading some
> > horror stories.
> >
> > What's the best way to handle?
> >
> > Thanks tim
> >
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1159 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
11:10 AM
> >
> >
>

#12127

From: randy cranford <rcranford06@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 2:25 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

rcranford06

I have a noise comming from the back of my 154. any
ideas ?



--- Dean Sherman <crosley@...> wrote:

> Sandblasting , we still do some , but it is mess and
> expense that have caused us to go to chemical
> strippers. We have the equipment but the mess is
> just too great and it is not cheap.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: timoppenheim
>   To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:48 AM
>   Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting
>
>
>   Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them
> to distort. On some other forums some
>   guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet
> metal may be thicker than the average car
>   body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too
> much for my education, ha
>
>   --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com,
> designer62@... wrote:
>   >
>   > What kind of horror stories? I sand blast and
> have not had any
>   > troubles.
>   >
>   > Mike
>   > Niles, Mi
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   > timoppenheim wrote:
>   >
>   > > The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but
> not through) in some
>   > > spots ( near the
>   > > instrument cowl) I was considering
> sandblasting, but am reading some
>   > > horror stories.
>   > >
>   > > What's the best way to handle?
>   > >
>   > > Thanks tim
>   > >
>   > >
>   > >
>   >
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>   ------
>   > >
>   > >No virus found in this incoming message.
>   > >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   > >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database:
> 269.16.10/1159 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
>   11:10 AM
>   > >
>   > >
>   >
>
>
>
>



      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

#12128

From: designer62@...
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 2:31 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

desi40m

Sounds like they do not know much about sandblasting....lol
It's a lot like painting a car or whatever.... You apply proper
air pressure and good technic. NOT the "get a bigger hammer
method"....lol

Mike
Niles, Mi

timoppenheim wrote:

Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some other forums some
guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker than the average car
body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, designer62@... wrote:
>
> What kind of horror stories? I sand blast and have not had any
> troubles.
>
> Mike
> Niles, Mi
>
>
>
> timoppenheim wrote:
>
> > The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but not through) in some
> > spots ( near the
> > instrument cowl) I was considering sandblasting, but am reading some
> > horror stories.
> >
> > What's the best way to handle?
> >
> > Thanks tim
> >
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1159 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
11:10 AM
> >
> >
>
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1164 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 11:30 AM

#12129

From: designer62@...
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 2:43 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

desi40m

Perhaps it is expensive if your doing commercially.

But to do it privately is dirt cheap. A little sandblasting unit
can be less that $100 and a bag of blasting sand only about $5.
The biggest cost is the compressor and most DIY people have
one already.

I lay down a big plastic tarp (12' x 20') and a piece of plywood
in the center (only big enough to hold the item to be blasted)
and put the item to blast on the plywood. The sand does not
spread past the tarp and cleanup is a breeze. I have even used
the same sand (sifted) for about 5 years now. Only thing I don't
care for is the sand sticking to me.....like a bad day at the beach...lol

It is the chemical strippers that can get messy for ya....as well as
dangerous if your sensitive to them.

Mike
Niles, Mi

Dean Sherman wrote:

Sandblasting , we still do some , but it is mess and expense that have caused us to go to chemical strippers. We have the equipment but the mess is just too great and it is not cheap.

----- Original Message -----

From: timoppenheim

To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:48 AM

Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some other forums some
guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker than the average car
body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, designer62@... wrote:
>
> What kind of horror stories? I sand blast and have not had any
> troubles.
>
> Mike
> Niles, Mi
>
>
>
> timoppenheim wrote:
>
> > The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but not through) in some
> > spots ( near the
> > instrument cowl) I was considering sandblasting, but am reading some
> > horror stories.
> >
> > What's the best way to handle?
> >
> > Thanks tim
> >
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1159 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
11:10 AM
> >
> >
>
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1164 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 11:30 AM

#12130

From: "ernwbailey" <ernwbailey@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 2:49 pm
Subject: PTO CLUTCH

ernwbailey

I recently bought lo, boy 185 would it be possible to change
185s clutch to a electric clutch such as I understand is in a
184. This would be better than paying $200 plus for a 185 repai
kit. An electric clutchs for others seem to be about $400.
I can't find a 184 electric clutch if there is such a thing.

#12131

From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 3:34 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

mikesloane

Some of the local sandblasters have started using baking soda for
cleaning up sheet metal. The advantages are that it is easier to clean
up, doesn't cause respiratory problems, doesn't damage the metal, and is
cheap to buy. It also doesn't seem to erode the nozzles on the gun as
quickly.

Mike

timoppenheim wrote:
>
>
> Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some
> other forums some
> guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker
> than the average car
> body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha
>

#12132

From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 3:39 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Hydraulic leaks

mikesloane

We should take Tim's experience as a warning. High pressure steam and
hydraulic leaks are hard to find and can be very dangerous - a
microscopic high pressure leak can literally cut your finger off if you
get too close. At the very least, it can inject hydraulic fluid under
your skin. Experienced mechanics use a piece of cardboard or similar,
rather than their hands, to find that kind of leak.

Mike

timoppenheim wrote:
>
>
> Earlier this year I made a number of posts about the 3 pt on my 154 and
> through the
> awesome knowledge of this group I have been able to this going again.
> But, I always had a
> problem with a leak. I assume that any leak under pressure would spray
> or at least increase.
> On my unit I had the tiniest pin hole right in the elbow underneath the
> transmission, but that
> thing could drip a quart a week in fluid. I just could get in my head
> that the part was bad.
>
> Anyway exhausting everything else I replaced the elbow and that was it.
> But to look at it you
> can't find the hole.
>
> Thanks to all
>
> Tim
>

#12133

From: "Kent Morris" <kmokgm@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 4:53 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Hydraulic leaks

ihcub24370

The hydraulic line coming from the bottom of the transmission is the suction line not a pressure line. While the tractor is running you probably won't have any leakage at all, but rather be sucking in air at a rate proportional to the size hole.

Kent

----- Original Message -----

From: timoppenheim

To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:02 AM

Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Hydraulic leaks

Earlier this year I made a number of posts about the 3 pt on my 154 and through the
awesome knowledge of this group I have been able to this going again. But, I always had a
problem with a leak. I assume that any leak under pressure would spray or at least increase.
On my unit I had the tiniest pin hole right in the elbow underneath the transmission, but that
thing could drip a quart a week in fluid. I just could get in my head that the part was bad.

Anyway exhausting everything else I replaced the elbow and that was it. But to look at it you
can't find the hole.

Thanks to all

Tim

#12134

From: designer62@...
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 5:00 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

desi40m

Kewl idea Mike.......I am going to try that.

I also wonder about salt.....but that may be
more expensive.

Mike
Niles, Mi

Mike Sloane wrote:

Some of the local sandblasters have started using baking soda for
cleaning up sheet metal. The advantages are that it is easier to clean
up, doesn't cause respiratory problems, doesn't damage the metal, and is
cheap to buy. It also doesn't seem to erode the nozzles on the gun as
quickly.

Mike

timoppenheim wrote:
>
>
> Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some
> other forums some
> guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker
> than the average car
> body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha
>
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1164 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 11:30 AM

#12135

From: "Kent Morris" <kmokgm@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 5:17 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] PTO CLUTCH

ihcub24370

Installing a electric 184 PTO clutch would get complicated. Although I haven't done it, I have heard of installing an off-the-self electric PTO clutch at the rear of the tractor. The is done by replacing or extending the PTO driveshaft to bypass the existing PTO clutch and installing a pulley type electric clutch at the rear to drive belt driven attachments.

Either way your looking at more that $200. However, if properly maintained, the multidisc PTO is quite dependable. The clutch can be tested by applying a 15/16" socket and torque wrench to the PTO shaft. The PTO shaft should not slip with 50ftlbs applied. If it slips either or both the belts and clutch need adjusting. The negative side, is that most of the multidisc PTO clutches must be removed and adjusted with shims to adjust.

Search around for the price on the clutch pack (527245R92). A few years ago they were about $130. At that time the best price I could find was the CaseIH dealer.

Kent

----- Original Message -----

From: ernwbailey

To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:49 AM

Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] PTO CLUTCH

I recently bought lo, boy 185 would it be possible to change
185s clutch to a electric clutch such as I understand is in a
184. This would be better than paying $200 plus for a 185 repai
kit. An electric clutchs for others seem to be about $400.
I can't find a 184 electric clutch if there is such a thing.

#12136

From: Larry H <skyridersbn@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 5:26 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

skyridersbn

One thing I haven't heard mentioned yet is if your unit has been waxed, you MUST use something like Prep-Sol wax stripper BEFORE you start sandblasting. If you don't, you will literally drive the wax into the pores of the metal and when you try to paint it, it will cause "fish-eyes" in your paint. The paint will NOT stick to the metal like it should and it will always cause you problems. Maybe I am ASSUMING no one waxes their loving tractors here......so that's why I am mentioning it...I hate to "ASS-U-ME" anything........

Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.

#12137

From: Larry H <skyridersbn@...>
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 5:33 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] PTO CLUTCH

skyridersbn

I just purchased a clutch pack. It cost me $191.25. That included shipping and taxes. I looked all over and the cheapest was my local dealer at $179.00. When you get the pack, you are going to scratch your head and say, "is this all I get for almost $200"???. The answer is YEP - I asked my dealer why it cost so much. His words to me was, "if it has the name International and Lo Boy attached to it, it's gonna cost you plenty". He was right.

Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.

#12138

From: designer62@...
Date: Sun Dec 2, 2007 8:00 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

desi40m

As long as your going that far you need to go a little farther.
NEVER NEVER NEVER paint on bare metal without first
covering it with primer. It is a real cheapo way that many
manufacturers today try and customers end up paying the
price for that kind of job. Your product that looked so nice
and shiney in the store will rust up in the first year.

After wet sanding your primer up to at least 600 grit paper,
do not touch it with bare hands or anything up until the moment
you paint it. If you accidentally touch it then use prepsol
or you can use rubbing alchohol to remove any possible oils
left by your hands.

If your going to paint the entire hood (and you should) you
will want to "rough up" the remainder of the hood with a
"scuff pad" before painting. If the rest of the hood is sound
you won't need to cover it with primer. But you will want
to spray it with a painting adhesive spray to help the new
paint adhere to the old (now scuffed) surface just prior to
the new paint being applied.
After the primer is dry blend the primered surface into the
old painted surface. Use an extremely bright work light and
shine it from a low vantage point. Look into the reflection
of the light on the two surfaces and it should show you any
flaws or uneven areas. Another way is to paint it with a very
contrasting color such as black. After painting it with some
cheap contrasting color from a spray can....use the light
method again to see if you have left any flaws or irregularities
in the two surfaces. Keep blending them and spraying until it
appears smooth from the primered area to the old original
painted area. Sand and blend until you have removed the
contrasting color as it is harder to cover dissimilar colors
with your new coat of paint.
If it satisfies you......go ahead and paint the final color.
I would cover lightly with a clear coat. (not from a spray
can...it is not the real thing). Let it dry at least two weeks
and you can buff it to remove any pimples, dust or
small defects. I use 3m hand glaze and a buffer....but you
can do what the product name describes.....by hand and
with a soft cloth (t-shirt type material).

Good luck!
Mike
Niles, Mi

Mike
Niles, Mi

Larry H wrote:

One thing I haven't heard mentioned yet is if your unit has been waxed, you MUST use something like Prep-Sol wax stripper BEFORE you start sandblasting. If you don't, you will literally drive the wax into the pores of the metal and when you try to paint it, it will cause "fish-eyes" in your paint. The paint will NOT stick to the metal like it should and it will always cause you problems. Maybe I am ASSUMING no one waxes their loving tractors here......so that's why I am mentioning it...I hate to "ASS-U-ME" anything........

Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1164 - Release Date: 12/2/2007 11:30 AM

#12139

From: burgertime631
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 1:08 am
Subject: setting points on 154

burgertime631

Once again im looking for a bit of help. Process of illimination. Now
im trying to set the points and need some instruction to access points.
Checked my IT manual. Had a photo and not much other. I attempted to
access the points with the distributor on the cub 154 and couldnt get
the breaker cover open. So i reassembled before i broke anything.

#12140

From: "Dave Carter" <drcarter1@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 10:54 am
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

carterdsr1

Any media ie walnit shells, plastic, glassbeads etc will do a good job and not warp like sand.

#12141

From: "outdoors4evr1" <outdoors4evr1@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 1:05 pm
Subject: Re: setting points on 154

outdoors4evr1

I think in your case I would have a qualified mechanic do this work.
Setting points correctly is tedious, meticulous, and requires a lot of
time invested in learning.  Take your tractor to a mechanic or have one
visit the tractor and this could be done correctly within an hour or
two.  Then you won't have to wonder if your next issue is timing or a
carb issue.

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, burgertime631 <no_reply@...>
wrote:
>
> Once again im looking for a bit of help. Process of illimination. Now
> im trying to set the points and need some instruction to access
points.
> Checked my IT manual. Had a photo and not much other. I attempted to
> access the points with the distributor on the cub 154 and couldnt get
> the breaker cover open. So i reassembled before i broke anything.
>

#12142

From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 1:07 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] setting points on 154

mikesloane

The breaker cover is just a Bakelite disk that is a friction fit. What
you need to do is, very gently, grab one of the little tabs sticking out
with a pair of pliers and wiggle the disk enough for it to come free. If
the tabs have been broken off (not uncommon), then you have to find some
other way to free it, but it isn't secured by any kind of fasteners  -
just dirt and oil accumulation.

Once you get the cover off, your next challenge is working with a set of
points that is very hard to access due to the horizontal position of the
distributor near the oil filter housing. It takes good light, a short
screwdriver, and a fair amount of patience. On occasion, I have resorted
to removing the distributor and setting the points on the work bench. If
you do that, be careful to note the position of the rotor before
removing the distributor, so you can put it back in exactly the same
position.

Mike

burgertime631 wrote:
>
>
> Once again im looking for a bit of help. Process of illimination. Now
> im trying to set the points and need some instruction to access points.
> Checked my IT manual. Had a photo and not much other. I attempted to
> access the points with the distributor on the cub 154 and couldnt get
> the breaker cover open. So i reassembled before i broke anything.

#12143

From: "snyder.andy" <ancy@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 5:51 pm
Subject: Planter

snyder.andy

I have got a planter to make my 3-point planter but I do not know the
make or model.  If I post a picture could any one help?  I need some
parts for it thats why I need to know.  It is red and has two
fiberglass boxes in it, I would say it is an IH but can't find any
that match it.  Thanks Andy

Reply | Messages in this Topic (7)

#12144

From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 6:25 pm
Subject: Warning about new oils in old engines

mikesloane

This is one journalist's opinion about the use of modern oils in our
older flat tappet engines:

<http://www.motorists.org/blog/technology/warning-if-you-have-an-older-vehicle-c\
hoose-your-oil-carefully/>

Rotella T isn't a bad choice, and I use NAPA "Fleet" oil (diesel rated)
in all of my 4 stroke machinery.

Mike

Reply | Messages in this Topic (5)

#12145

From: Tim Stone <tpstone3756@...>
Date: Mon Dec 3, 2007 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Series] Sandblasting

tpstone3756

It's all a matter of pressure.. And the type of grit you choose.. Also the item you are blasting.. Any heavy assembly no worries.. Most likely the panels also no worries.. Would back the pressure on the sand blaster off to about 90 to 95 psi for a panel like the 184/154 has.. The newer synthetic grit works really well.. Beats the old slag or cinders we uses to use..

Tim S...

timoppenheim <timopp@...> wrote:

Sandblasting body panels, on cars, can cause them to distort. On some other forums some
guys are saying just don't do it. The 154 sheet metal may be thicker than the average car
body panel, but I am trying to avoid paying too much for my education, ha

--- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, designer62@... wrote:
>
> What kind of horror stories? I sand blast and have not had any
> troubles.
>
> Mike
> Niles, Mi
>
>
>
> timoppenheim wrote:
>
> > The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but not through) in some
> > spots ( near the
> > instrument cowl) I was considering sandblasting, but am reading some
> > horror stories.
> >
> > What's the best way to handle?
> >
> > Thanks tim
> >
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1159 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
11:10 AM
> >
> >
>

Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.

#12146

From: Kati A <kayca_ks@...>
Date: Tue Dec 4, 2007 12:25 am
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

kayca_ks

For "sand" blasing on aircraft (Boeing at least) they
use a lot of walnut hulls.  They are fairly coarsely
ground up.  Biodegradable and perhaps not quite as
abrasive as sand.  That's usually used on aluminum tho
if it makes a difference.  Kay


      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ

#12147

From: Michael Georgal <mjgeorgal@...>
Date: Tue Dec 4, 2007 1:39 pm
Subject: Re:Warning about new oils in old engines

mjgeorgal

Mike;

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. 20 years ago I observed an oil test of different oils. The test measured what pressure was required to cause a seizure. All different brands where tested. The test involved conventional oils.

Shell Rotella T Oil required TWICE the pressure of other oils before seizure. Made a believer out of me.

Mike G.

Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.

Reply | Messages in this Topic (5)

#12148

From: "Dennis Anderson" <whatelse@...>
Date: Tue Dec 4, 2007 2:20 pm
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

serious_mach...

Here's a link to a chemical rust remover that's billed as very 'friendly':
http://www.safestrustremover.com/overview.asp
It was briefly mentioned in one of the other equipment mechanics &
maintenance Yahoo groups I belong to.
Since many of us DIY'ers correlate a chemical product's effectiveness
with its toxicity and ability to cause damage if misused, I'm curious as
to see how well this product lives up to the mfg's claims.  It probably is
easier to do than sandblasting or using electrolysis; but does it work ?
.

> In ihcubloboyseries, "timoppenheim" <timopp@...> wrote:
> The hood on my 154 is pretty badly rusted, but not through) in some
> spots (near the instrument cowl) I was considering sandblasting, but
> am reading some horror stories.  What's the best way to handle?

#12149

From: "snyder.andy" <ancy@...>
Date: Tue Dec 4, 2007 3:18 pm
Subject: Chains

snyder.andy