Actually, I was afraid I would have to use variables to get this to work.  I
probably will have to bulletproof what I am using now but the incredible simple
line of code I posted in the previous message does exactly what I want and has
enormous potential.

Since my wife is not as convinced that every possible chair, couch or bed in the
house should control the entire automation environment, I have been looking for
a way to extend the usefulness of some BSR era maxi controllers I've concealed
inside things like Chinese puzzle boxes for higher SAF.

This sequence [X,X,X]technique lets me access far more than 16 codes per unit. 
I can keep a numerical list printed up for the lids of the boxes and put it on
the house intraCCTV net.

I suspect the challenge will be when I implement more than the one sequence
command I have now and to make sure that I don't call the wrong one because my
code might let a 144 code also activate a 14 macro.  I guess I need to decide
now whether all macros will be three keyed or whether I can write a parse in HV
code that can handle different length X-10 sequences.

Your technique will be useful for another project:  I want to be able to leave
the house, and depending on the number of teen-age hooligans there are in the
street, want to be able to set a variable delay from a single button.  In other
words, if I press 16 - 16 - 16 to run a turn out the lights macro, I would like
to be able to press another button, say 4, X times, with X representing an
incremental 5 minute delay.


16-16-16-4 means turn off the lights in 5 minutes
16-16-16-4-4 means turn off the lights in 10 minutes
16-16-16-4-4-4 means turn off the lights in 15 minutes

As awkward as it seems, it's better than trying to remember the timer sequence
on the UR24-remote. I'm sure it lends itself to much smarter coding using
timers, variable and iteration but it's been ten years or more since I have
written a line of code . . .

Thanks for your input,

--
Bobby G.



--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "toscal" <toscal@...> wrote:
>
> Why not try using a variable that gets incremented by one every time you press
the same button. You will also need to add some sort of time limitation.
>
> Something along the lines of:
>
> If
>    X-10: A 2 (HiFi Lights) is on
>    And Var #0 (Var 0) = 3
> Then
>    Do Macro #4 (Macro 4) once
>    Var #0 (Var 0) = 0
> Else
>    Var #0 (Var 0) = Var #0 (Var 0) + 1
> End If
>
>  Needs the timing thing sorting out, but hope this helps.
>
> --- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Green <robert_green1963@>
wrote:
> >
> >  I'm trying to get a macro to fire by pressing unit button 4 on a
maxicontroller 3 times in a row.  I'm doing this to "multiplex" the keys on the
maxicontroller to give me more than just 16 control options.  I've tried
everything I could think of but nothing happens.  Can someone point me in the
right direction?  I am using HomeVision 3.45A.  I've already fallen for the trap
where I didn't press the "Change This Signal" button that you need to press to
actually change the signal!! I've also tried putting the code in a periodic
event without luck.  My tech experience with HV programming is obviously very
low so speak s-l-o-w-l-y.  (-:
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > --
> > Bobby G.
> >
>

On Saturday 05 December 2009 22:30:39 Bobby Green wrote:
>  I'm trying to get a macro to fire by pressing unit button 4
>  on a maxicontroller 3 times in a row.  I'm doing this to
>  "multiplex" the keys on the maxicontroller to give me more
>  than just 16 control options.

http://hv.tclcode.com/wiki/19


Schelte.

Why not try using a variable that gets incremented by one every time you press
the same button. You will also need to add some sort of time limitation.

Something along the lines of:

If
    X-10: A 2 (HiFi Lights) is on
    And Var #0 (Var 0) = 3
Then
    Do Macro #4 (Macro 4) once
    Var #0 (Var 0) = 0
Else
    Var #0 (Var 0) = Var #0 (Var 0) + 1
End If

  Needs the timing thing sorting out, but hope this helps.

--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Green <robert_green1963@...>
wrote:
>
>  I'm trying to get a macro to fire by pressing unit button 4 on a
maxicontroller 3 times in a row.  I'm doing this to "multiplex" the keys on the
maxicontroller to give me more than just 16 control options.  I've tried
everything I could think of but nothing happens.  Can someone point me in the
right direction?  I am using HomeVision 3.45A.  I've already fallen for the trap
where I didn't press the "Change This Signal" button that you need to press to
actually change the signal!! I've also tried putting the code in a periodic
event without luck.  My tech experience with HV programming is obviously very
low so speak s-l-o-w-l-y.  (-:
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>

Found out how to properly chain 3 sequences in a row so that the code says:

IF
    X-10 Sequence [B4, B4, B4] received within 5 seconds.

I had been added them as ADD clauses within the IF statement.  I'll probably
need more help, but this seems to have been the logjam.

--
Bobby G.

I'm trying to get a macro to fire by pressing unit button 4 on a maxicontroller
3 times in a row.  I'm doing this to "multiplex" the keys on the maxicontroller
to give me more than just 16 control options.  I've tried everything I could
think of but nothing happens.  Can someone point me in the right direction?  I
am using HomeVision 3.45A.  I've already fallen for the trap where I didn't
press the "Change This Signal" button that you need to press to actually change
the signal!! I've also tried putting the code in a periodic event without luck. 
My tech experience with HV programming is obviously very low so speak
s-l-o-w-l-y.  (-:

Thanks in advance!

--
Bobby G.

On Wednesday 02 December 2009 13:32:29 jolivier98 wrote:
> I have been moving my Homevision XL application from one
>  computer to another. I re-installed everything and updated
>  the control plug-in from 5.0 to the latest version(6.0).
>  When I try to import the ctl file that I created under 5.0,
>  I get an error message. Am I doing something wrong or are
>  they not compatible?
>
Control plug-in 6.0 is supposed to be able to handle control
files created with 5.0. But "I get an error message" is not
enough information for me to be able to tell what is wrong.

http://hv.tclcode.com/help.html


Thanks,
Schelte.

So I got my control file (ctl) working on the new computer by cutting and
pasting of the code from the old ctl file to the new one.

Now it works, but there is a split second flash to white when switching screens
within the control screens which did not happen on the previous computer.

The previous computer is a 3.0 GHZ desktop with 768 MB of RAM and the "new"
computer is a 1 GHZ laptop with 256MB of memory. Does anyone know if I upgrade
the memory, the problem will go away or it the laptop just too slow?

thanks,
Jack

I have been moving my Homevision XL application from one computer to another. I
re-installed everything and updated the control plug-in from 5.0 to the latest
version(6.0). When I try to import the ctl file that I created under 5.0, I get
an error message. Am I doing something wrong or are they not compatible?

thanks,
Jack

On Sunday 29 November 2009 18:50:10 Bob Baldwin wrote:
> While I currently do not have a `need', or even a hint of a
> `need', for said  `services'  it's actually really nice to
> know that there is the capability available.

On Monday 30 November 2009 13:42:09 Bruce Fisher wrote:
> That is really awesome!  You never cease to amaze me.
>
Thanks for the encouragement, guys :-)


Schelte

As I learn more about Windows 7...which version are you running?
I see that two of them have an XP compatibility mode. Do you
need to invoke that to run the HV software? Thanks.

Mark


---- On Mon, 30 Nov 2009, Glen Ferguson
(glen.ferguson@...) wrote:

Works fine on my Win7



From: homevision-users@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:homevision-users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark A.
Dalla Valle
Sent: Monday, 30 November 2009 12:48 PM
To:
Subject: [HOMEVIS] Windows 7





Will the HV software (non-Pro) run on the new Windows 7 OS?
Thanks.

Mark

Will  HV pro run on the new Windows 7 OS?

Thanks

----- Original Message -----

From: Schelte Bron

To: homevision-users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:43 AM

Subject: Re: [HOMEVIS] Counting pulses

 

Undeterred by the total absence of any reaction to my previous
messages about the subject I have vastly improved the picprog
plug-in. It can now handle several different types of PICs and
keep track of multiple self-programmable expansion boards.
http://hv.tclcode.com/picprog.html

I have also modified the MiniMFEB code. By defining the COUNTER
symbol while building the project, one of the analog ports gets
turned into a pulse counter. With an optional 8-bit prescaler it
can count over 65000 pulses during each "loop" of the controller
without any loss of accuracy.
http://hv.tclcode.com/minimfeb.html

Thanks,
Schelte.

On Monday 26 October 2009 23:44:29 Schelte Bron wrote:
> On Tuesday 20 October 2009 20:27:55 Chuck wrote:
> > Thanks guys. Well I don't have a serial port so the 1 wire
> > won't work... dropping a few pulses won't be the end of the
> > world.
> >
> > Maybe Craig can put on the wish list 'pulse counting input
> > channels'. With all the power/gas/water monitoring stuff
> > people are starting to do I'm sure it would be a feature
> > that would sell more units! Probably more work to change
> > the documentation than the code. I can dream.
>
> The "Mini MFEB" (http://hv.tclcode.com/picprog.html#minimfeb)
> I just mentioned to Jim would only need different firmware
> to be able to count pulses into the MHz range itself, or to
> support the 1-wire counter board from Hobby Boards.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Schelte.

Will the HV software (non-Pro) run on the new Windows 7 OS?
Thanks.

Mark

Schelte Bron wrote:
>
>
> Undeterred by the total absence of any reaction to my previous
> messages about the subject I have vastly improved the picprog
> plug-in. It can now handle several different types of PICs and
> keep track of multiple self-programmable expansion boards.
> http://hv.tclcode.com/picprog.html <http://hv.tclcode.com/picprog.html>
>
> I have also modified the MiniMFEB code. By defining the COUNTER
> symbol while building the project, one of the analog ports gets
> turned into a pulse counter. With an optional 8-bit prescaler it
> can count over 65000 pulses during each "loop" of the controller
> without any loss of accuracy.
> http://hv.tclcode.com/minimfeb.html <http://hv.tclcode.com/minimfeb.html>

       At the risk of sounding weird, (Who, me weird?!), or something
like that...  *Thanks*, Schelte!  {VERY BIG GRIN!}  While I *currently*
do not have a `need', or even a hint of a `need', for said `services'
it's actually really nice to know that there is the capability
available.  (No!  I am *not* being sarcastic, facetious, or whatever.
[Well...  Maybe just a tad bit towards those people who seem to take you
for granted.])

       Happy Chaunukah, Happy Equinox, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!

--

	 Doleo ergo sum,
	   Bob Baldwin

?"Contrariwise, if it was so, it might be; and if it were so, it would
be; but as it isn't, it ain't. That's logic."? - Lewis Carroll

Undeterred by the total absence of any reaction to my previous
messages about the subject I have vastly improved the picprog
plug-in. It can now handle several different types of PICs and
keep track of multiple self-programmable expansion boards.
http://hv.tclcode.com/picprog.html

I have also modified the MiniMFEB code. By defining the COUNTER
symbol while building the project, one of the analog ports gets
turned into a pulse counter. With an optional 8-bit prescaler it
can count over 65000 pulses during each "loop" of the controller
without any loss of accuracy.
http://hv.tclcode.com/minimfeb.html


Thanks,
Schelte.


On Monday 26 October 2009 23:44:29 Schelte Bron wrote:
> On Tuesday 20 October 2009 20:27:55 Chuck wrote:
> > Thanks guys.  Well I don't have a serial port so the 1 wire
> > won't work... dropping a few pulses won't be the end of the
> > world.
> >
> > Maybe Craig can put on the wish list 'pulse counting input
> > channels'.  With all the power/gas/water monitoring stuff
> > people are starting to do I'm sure it would be a feature
> > that would sell more units!  Probably more work to change
> > the documentation than the code. I can dream.
>
> The "Mini MFEB" (http://hv.tclcode.com/picprog.html#minimfeb)
>  I just mentioned to Jim would only need different firmware
>  to be able to count pulses into the MHz range itself, or to
>  support the 1-wire counter board from Hobby Boards.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Schelte.

Hello,

I use homeseer with homevision.
I have the folowing problem. When homevision changes the outputports A (relais),
this change of status is not reported to homeseer.
The reports of flag´s and digital inputs is still OK.
What can be the problem.

Thanks,

Renaatdb

It appears his business and website are still there.  You might want to just
send him an e-mail.  http://www.customautomationtech.com/about_us.htm

--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, Ronald Gross <Ron@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any idea what happened to Dan Hoehnen and ACE ??
>
> I'm in the middle of a rebuild of my home automation computer and
> can't find the ACE products download page.
>
> Thanks.
> Ron
>

Does anyone have any idea what happened to Dan Hoehnen and ACE ??

I'm in the middle of a rebuild of my home automation computer and
can't find the ACE products download page.

Thanks.
Ron

Light output is excellent these days, and our 6w gu10 or MR16 replacement will
easily replace a 40 to 50W halogen. beam angle is 60 degrees. But these are not
dimmable.
Light output for the dimmable LED fittings is excellent the 5W one is 500 lumen
for the cold white and 480 lumen for the warm white if you use Cree LED and 410
and 390 lumen if you use Edison. And the 7W ranges from 580 to 700 and the 9W
710 to 900 lumen depending on LED type. Unfortuntely they are not direct bulb
replacements but the entire fitting. And are only suitable as down light.

--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "Strickland83" <strickland83@...>
wrote:
>
> toscal,
> I have looked into LED lighting. I was very interested in the technology, but
I see it having two problems right now. The light output is not yet enough to
replace the halogen lamps I use now, and the price is still too high for
residential use. Lumen output is far below the output of 75 and 90 watt
traditional lamps. I am sure LED technology will eventually be practical,
perhaps soon based on some recent developments.
>
> I would be interested in hearing what is available that is comparable in light
output to 75 - 90 watt bulbs. Existing lighting in these homes was engineered
for conventional lamps so light output cannot be reduced.
>
> Strickland83
>
>
> --- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "toscal" <toscal@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > What about LED lighting. We do a range of mains dimmable LED lighting both
in 230 and 120 volt versions, they use Edison or Cree LEDs .
> > Good viewing angles either 30 or 60 degrees. The only problem
> >  and this also applies to fluorescents as well is that you often need a
minimum load for the X10 dimmer.
> >
> > --- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "Strickland83" <strickland83@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > Shawn,
> > > Thanks for the feedback. I can live with a 100% - 25% dimmable range. I
had found a few other comments online about Philips bulbs being better able to
deal with X-10 dimming. Given the "soft on" feature in the Leviton switches I
use, the warm up time of fluorescents probably won't be as noticeable. Most of
my installations use recessed can ceiling fixtures requiring a PAR30 type bulb.
In my area, Philips bulbs in the PAR30 design are very hard to find, though the
larger PAR38 is available. I'll keep looking for the Philips and I am anxious to
hear what experiences others have had regarding dimmable compact fluorescents
and X-10.
>

toscal,
I have looked into LED lighting. I was very interested in the technology, but I
see it having two problems right now. The light output is not yet enough to
replace the halogen lamps I use now, and the price is still too high for
residential use. Lumen output is far below the output of 75 and 90 watt
traditional lamps. I am sure LED technology will eventually be practical,
perhaps soon based on some recent developments.

I would be interested in hearing what is available that is comparable in light
output to 75 - 90 watt bulbs. Existing lighting in these homes was engineered
for conventional lamps so light output cannot be reduced.

Strickland83


--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "toscal" <toscal@...> wrote:
>
>
> What about LED lighting. We do a range of mains dimmable LED lighting both in
230 and 120 volt versions, they use Edison or Cree LEDs .
> Good viewing angles either 30 or 60 degrees. The only problem
>  and this also applies to fluorescents as well is that you often need a
minimum load for the X10 dimmer.
>
> --- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "Strickland83" <strickland83@> wrote:
> >
> > Shawn,
> > Thanks for the feedback. I can live with a 100% - 25% dimmable range. I had
found a few other comments online about Philips bulbs being better able to deal
with X-10 dimming. Given the "soft on" feature in the Leviton switches I use,
the warm up time of fluorescents probably won't be as noticeable. Most of my
installations use recessed can ceiling fixtures requiring a PAR30 type bulb. In
my area, Philips bulbs in the PAR30 design are very hard to find, though the
larger PAR38 is available. I'll keep looking for the Philips and I am anxious to
hear what experiences others have had regarding dimmable compact fluorescents
and X-10.

Something I have been toying with is using a wireless sensor interface. These
are available from many alarm manufacturers such as Visonic and ESP Infinte.
They are basically a unit which allows wireless sensors to a wired alarm panel.
The idea I had was to use one of these and connect the relay outputs to the
inputs of the HV.
  The one that has really caught my interest is Infinte Prime INF-RX8 as it
allows for the use of Key fobs, link is http://www.espuk.com/intro_rx8.htm



--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "Glen Ferguson" <glen.ferguson@...>
wrote:
>
> I got my Networkx gear from Worthington Distributors and then sent it to
> Australia.
>
>
>
> From: homevision-users@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:homevision-users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jacqu0
> Sent: Monday, 9 November 2009 3:38 AM
> To: homevision-users@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [HOMEVIS] Security alarm companion for HV?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thankyou for the replies.
>
> I am interested in the Caddx system, primarily because it seems simpler (and
> cheaper) to implement. A NX6 controller/panel + NX-416 (Wireless i/f) +
> NX-584 (RS232 i/f) seems to fit the bill nicely. The only downside is
> availability here in the UK - Anyone know of a stockist?
>
> One question:
> I understand how the security System Events work. However, when are the
> Security System "Conditions" updated? For example, if a zone is faulted,
> when either the system is armed or unarmed, will that automatically be
> propogated from the NX6 to HV so that, for example, I could turn a light on
> if someone walks into that zone? If such a zone fault occurs (and is it not
> something that triggers a partition alarm) then where would I put the
> IF-THEN statement to check for it? In a periodic event action, checking
> every loop?
>
> Thanks.
>

What about LED lighting. We do a range of mains dimmable LED lighting both in
230 and 120 volt versions, they use Edison or Cree LEDs .
Good viewing angles either 30 or 60 degrees. The only problem
  and this also applies to fluorescents as well is that you often need a minimum
load for the X10 dimmer.

--- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "Strickland83" <strickland83@...>
wrote:
>
> Shawn,
> Thanks for the feedback. I can live with a 100% - 25% dimmable range. I had
found a few other comments online about Philips bulbs being better able to deal
with X-10 dimming. Given the "soft on" feature in the Leviton switches I use,
the warm up time of fluorescents probably won't be as noticeable. Most of my
installations use recessed can ceiling fixtures requiring a PAR30 type bulb. In
my area, Philips bulbs in the PAR30 design are very hard to find, though the
larger PAR38 is available. I'll keep looking for the Philips and I am anxious to
hear what experiences others have had regarding dimmable compact fluorescents
and X-10.
>
>
> --- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "oldcrow92" <scrappycrow@> wrote:
> >
> > I've used some Philips Earth Light dimmable bulbs (appear to be model SLS/D
20W) on LM14A modules with some success.  I didn't notice any adverse effects on
the reliability of my not-too-extensive network, but the lights do cut off below
about 25% dimming level.
> >
> > -Shawn
> >
> > --- In homevision-users@yahoogroups.com, "Strickland83" <strickland83@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > With the push to start replacing incandescent bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs, I expect that my clients will begin having problems trying to
put compact fluorescent bulbs in fixtures controlled by dimming X-10 switches. I
see that some fluorescent bulbs claim to be dimmable. I have begun doing some
experimenting and found that the GE energy smart bulbs, while not dimmable, do
not cause interference in the X-10 signals when used in circuits in the same
house that are connected to conventional switches. Has anyone done tests with
dimmable fluorescent bulbs in circuits controlled by X-10 dimming switches?
Hearing about your experiences will shorten the time and reduce the cost of my
experiments. I will, of course, share the results of my experiments here.
> > >
> > > I put several GE energy smart compact fluorescent bulbs in circuits in my
home. The bulbs are selling for $7.97 for a three pack of 23 watt (comparable to
100W incandescent in lumens) in my local Wal-Mart. They have a very short warm
up time to get to full brightness and do not interfere with the transmission of
the X-10 signals.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for any information you can provide.
> > >
> >
>

Hello everyone! 
I discovered an email with the subject/title 'Hi' with a link to elegrocery in it, which I supposedly sent. 
I didn't send it; my account got probably hacked so please disregard it.
Sorry for the inconvenience.

Harry