Thanks Rick,
As for the dead links -- that's why I said some won't work
cause I'm still writing them, but hang in there I'll gett'em
done.............. Some day... LOLOLOL

Grandpa Bill


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Rick  Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> lots of good info but I did hit some dead links  on the site.
>
> Rick
>
> On Apr 30, 2011, at 1:55 PM, "Inventor" <welfab@...> wrote:
>
> > Hey Guys,
> > For weeks/months I've been building/Snapping pics/writing web
> > pages..... and not once did the light go off to post it
> > here.
> >
> > SO-O-O here's the link to my foundry pages. Some won't
> > work as I'm still writing them, but most, (I think) do.
> >
> > http://www.imarketingcenter.com/foundry.html
> > (The CNC stuff isn't done at all)
> >
> > Please fell free to give me feedback/suggestions or
> > whatever.
> >
> > Grandpa Bill
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> > this list does not accept attachments.
> >
> > Files area and list services are at:
> >     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
> >
> > For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> > check out these two affiliated sites:
> >     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> >     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
> >
> > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
> >
> > List Owner:
> > owly@...
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

Bill,

My point was that when a site visitor hits a few dead links, they tend to
lose interest and move on. I think it is better to only show working links
and comment out the ones under construction so they don't show. I'd rather
see a bunch of blank boxes than dead links.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com [mailto:hobbicast@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Inventor
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 2:17 AM
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Ok, I'm old and brain dead

Thanks Rick,
As for the dead links -- that's why I said some won't work
cause I'm still writing them, but hang in there I'll gett'em
done.............. Some day... LOLOLOL

Grandpa Bill

Looks to me like your brain is alive and well, and firing on all 12 cylinders!
;) The only way to avoid mistakes is to not do anything. And even that doesn't
always work! ;)

I've only read the first page on the reverberatory furnace, and I've already
learned a thing or two. Good work, and thank you VERY MUCH for sharing it with
us!

Bill in OKC

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Inventor" <welfab@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
> For weeks/months I've been building/Snapping pics/writing web
> pages..... and not once did the light go off to post it
> here.
>
> SO-O-O here's the link to my foundry pages. Some won't
> work as I'm still writing them, but most, (I think) do.
>
> http://www.imarketingcenter.com/foundry.html
> (The CNC stuff isn't done at all)
>
> Please fell free to give me feedback/suggestions or
> whatever.
>
> Grandpa Bill
>

I actually got things working at 24v – I basically had to leave the furnace
open for a bit to let the burner get heated up after lighting it and then it
would stay on when I closed the furnace – it works a lot better!

I uploaded a few more pictures of the glowing orange insides  (the very last two
pictures)
http://www.backyard-workshop.com/projects/metal-casting-projects/117-aluminum-ti\
lting-furnace.html

Jamie

From: Rick
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 3:07 PM
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Re: My New Aluminum Tilting Furnace


I really like all of these suggests as examples of very cool solutions to tricky
problems. Driving a dc motor at a constant speed is not such a problem.

If I had to do this task, I would connect up a variable dc supply, adjust the
voltage for the desired speed, then go off to Goodwill for a $2.00 wall wart
that is close in voltage and current.

Rick (via iPod)

On Apr 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, "Les" <mailto:g8fub%40yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> --- In mailto:hobbicast%40yahoogroups.com, kabowers@... wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 13:17:13 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>> On 4/29/2011 11:51 AM, RG Sparber wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Certainly worth a try. Just remember that the cold resistance is typically
>>>> lower than the hot resistance.
>>>>
>>>> Rick
>>>>
>>> Or you could make a small PWM controller. Not that hard or expensive.
>>> Duck soup with an Arduino and a power transistor.
>> Or you could try one of these:
>> href="http://pjrc.com/teensy/index.html"
>>
>> It's a subset of the standard Arduino on a 24-pin header for $16 US + about
$3
>> shipping via first class snailmail. Connects via USB and uses the WIN-AVR
software.
>>
>> Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
>>
> Hi,
> An even simpler and cheaper solution would be to use a 555 timer IC and a
power transistor or power mosfet. If you do a search for "pwm 555" you will find
a number of designs that should provide the control that you need.
> Les.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> mailto:owly%40ttc-cmc.net
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Jamie Cunningham" <Jamie@...> wrote:
>
> I actually got things working at 24v â€" I basically had to leave the furnace
open for a bit to let the burner get heated up after lighting it and then it
would stay on when I closed the furnace â€" it works a lot better!





> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 3:07 PM
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Re: My New Aluminum Tilting Furnace
>
>
> I really like all of these suggests as examples of very cool solutions to
tricky problems. Driving a dc motor at a constant speed is not such a problem.
>
> If I had to do this task, I would connect up a variable dc supply, adjust the
voltage for the desired speed, then go off to Goodwill for a $2.00 wall wart
that is close in voltage and current.
>
> Rick (via iPod)
>
> On Apr 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, "Les" <mailto:g8fub%40yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >>
> >> Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> >>
> > Hi,
> > An even simpler and cheaper solution would be to use a 555 timer IC and a
power transistor or power mosfet. If you do a search for "pwm 555" you will find
a number of designs that should provide the control that you need.
> > Les.


I may have the simplest solution of all...  Why not just throttle the inlet side
of your blower? You can let it spin as fast as it likes and it will only move as
much air as you feed it. If I'm not mistaken, I don't think it will use very
much more power this way either.  Even though it's spinning faster than you
really need it to it's only moving as much air as you need. A friend of mine had
a forge that worked this way and it was simple yet effective and fully
adjustable according to the amount of fuel you had or the level of heat you
needed.

On my son,s forge  we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we
control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked
the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball
valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side
air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from
max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc
to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron
pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.

That's the easiest idea yet! I could probably find a valve that fits the
pipe I'm already using :)

although things ARE working now - that's a good idea if I wanted to NOT go
full blast sometime

Thanks!

On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 9:32 AM, frozen chosen <walter2@...>wrote:

>
>
> On my son,s forge we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we
> control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked
> the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball
> valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side
> air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from
> max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc
> to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron
> pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I like hand bellows, which are easy to regulate, the fire burns hot when you
want it too and they are quieter,. Electric motors, machines running all the
time and workshop noise has made me deaf, I use ear protection, but it is oh so
nice when it stops!

Regards, Matthew

Matthew TINKER

CNC conversion 1944 Colchester Lathe build-up log

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35519

--- On Thu, 5/5/11, frozen chosen <walter2@...> wrote:

From: frozen chosen <walter2@...>
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: My New Aluminum Tilting Furnace
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, 5 May, 2011, 15:32







 









        On my son,s forge  we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we

control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked

the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball

valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side

air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from

max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc

to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron

pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.






















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 5/5/2011 12:10 PM, Jamie Cunningham wrote:
> That's the easiest idea yet! I could probably find a valve that fits the
> pipe I'm already using :)
>
> although things ARE working now - that's a good idea if I wanted to NOT go
> full blast sometime
>
> Thanks!
Or you could use blast gates. Easy to make on a cnc router.
<http://www.google.com/search?q=blast+gate&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&\
tbm=isch&ei=pOLCTcGbNMrTgQfh953iAQ&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CCsQ_AUoA\
Q&biw=1680&bih=864>

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

There are two kinds of posts on newsgroups.
1. This is what I have done...
2. This is what I think...
Be aware of the difference!

http://www.ourcadguy.com/

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/

I went one simpler: shop vac air supply, and butterfly valve inline.
Just block the airflow as much or as little as required. No need for a
second valve or tee fitting, it just makes things more complicated. I
used McMaster 9798K35 as the butterfly valve. I highly recommend it
over a ball valve -- much lower actuation torque, and it doesn't tend
to stick in place, which makes it a lot easier to make small
adjustments.

Evan Daniel

On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 12:10 PM, Jamie Cunningham
<Jamie@...> wrote:
> That's the easiest idea yet! I could probably find a valve that fits the
> pipe I'm already using :)
>
> although things ARE working now - that's a good idea if I wanted to NOT go
> full blast sometime
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 9:32 AM, frozen chosen <walter2@...>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On my son,s forge we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we
>> control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked
>> the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball
>> valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side
>> air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from
>> max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc
>> to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron
>> pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

All things considered, the T valve setup is better, as it lets the vacuum motor
run full speed with no restrictions on the airflow through the motor. Anything
that blocks the airflow, as opposed to diverting part of it, will cause the
vacuum motor to overheat if it's one of those that uses it's own airstream for
cooling. (AFAIK, that is most of them.)

HTH

Bill in OKC

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, frozen chosen <walter2@...> wrote:
>
>  On my son,s forge  we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we
> control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked
> the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball
> valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side
> air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from
> max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc
> to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron
> pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.
>

Mine is actually a fan I "borrowed" from an old hair dryer ;) not sure what
that makes it though

Jamie
Check out my CNC projects (and more) at http://www.backyard-workshop.com

On Fri, May 6, 2011 at 1:06 PM, oldstudentmsgt <wmrmeyers@...>wrote:

>
>
> All things considered, the T valve setup is better, as it lets the vacuum
> motor run full speed with no restrictions on the airflow through the motor.
> Anything that blocks the airflow, as opposed to diverting part of it, will
> cause the vacuum motor to overheat if it's one of those that uses it's own
> airstream for cooling. (AFAIK, that is most of them.)
>
> HTH
>
> Bill in OKC
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, frozen chosen <walter2@...> wrote:
> >
> > On my son,s forge we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we
> > control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked
> > the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball
> > valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side
> > air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from
> > max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc
> > to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron
> > pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.
> >
>
>
>



--
Jamie
Check out my CNC projects (and more) at http://www.backyard-workshop.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The reason I used the ball valves is that's what I had in my junk box ,
but if I redo it I will go with a blast gate or butterfly valve.
  Also I went with two valves because I did'nt want too place a load
on the motor as it would draw more amps and the resulting unwanted heat
whicw may shorten the life of the shop vac.

                                            Thank You

You guys are drawing the wrong conclusion here.   a vacuum cleaner is a
centrifugal blower, not a positive displacement blower.   Blocking
either the suction or the exhaust REDUCES MOTOR LOAD..... You will
notice that the RPM goes UP, not down when you block either inlet or
outlet.    I've owned quite a few shop vacs over the years, and all of
them have had cooling fans on the motor.    These are brush motors, and
unlike induction motors, the speed varies with the load... load them
down, they lose RPM, unload them and they rev up.    You can tell the
truth of what I am saying by simply listening to your vac.   Using the
selector Tee will make it work harder, not less..... There seems to be a
major misunderstanding of the operation of these machines going on
here.    If you can lay hands on a clamp on amp meter,  you can see for
yourself.        Being brush motors, they probably can be controlled
using a rheostat, like an electric drill or a sewing machine motor.   I
would suggest finding an old sewing machine foot pedal and
experimenting.  It could be adapted to control the RPM and airflow on
the shop vac.  These usually are cheap motors, not designed for long
life.... brush motors seldom have a long life.... brushes wear out, and
often take the commentator, just like a cheap hand drill or 4" grinder.


                                                 Howard

On 05/06/2011 11:06 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
> All things considered, the T valve setup is better, as it lets the vacuum
motor run full speed with no restrictions on the airflow through the motor.
Anything that blocks the airflow, as opposed to diverting part of it, will cause
the vacuum motor to overheat if it's one of those that uses it's own airstream
for cooling. (AFAIK, that is most of them.)
>
> HTH
>
> Bill in OKC
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, frozen chosen <walter2@...> wrote:
>
>>  On my son,s forge  we have a shop vac running off exhaust port and we
>> control the air pressure with a T fitting and two ball valves. We hooked
>> the supply to one side of the top leg and run it straight into a ball
>> valve to the forge , the bottom leg has a ball valve to the out side
>> air. By adjusting the two valves we can get the pressure we need from
>> max air to 0 air. Also the T fitting and the ball valves are 1 inch pvc
>> to iron black pipe but with the air flow and the length of 1 inch iron
>> pipe ,the pvc doesn't get warm.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

On May 6, 2011, at 8:37 PM, Stone Tool wrote:

> I
> would suggest finding an old sewing machine foot pedal and
> experimenting.

A light dimmer may be more readily available. A 600-watt light dimmer is
available from my local hardware store for $6.

I wired one into a receptacle box along with a socket that was wired through it.
Most electric motors less than 600 watts can be controlled with it by plugging
it in to the special socket.

This is how I control my squirrel fan for my oil burners.


Best,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

That won't work for the larger motors, though, Jeshsua. 600watts is about 5
amps, and it's an inductive load, which filament lamps are not. Most shop vacs
are considerably more than 5 amp draw. Mine is a 11.5amps, 5.5hp peak. And it
does heat up when the intake is blocked, unlike another poster suggested. It's a
Shop Vac brand, not a clone.

Now, if you can find one designed for 12 amps or so of inductive load, that
would be NICE! I've been looking for a 120VAC autotransformer with a high
amperage output rating that I could afford for about 39 years now, and no luck
so far...

I'm planning on trying a 600watt dimmer on the transformer running the 24V
cooling fan I intend to install in my HF flux-core welder, but not betting it
will survive the experience, either. That is nearly a PURELY inductive load.

It's been so long since I played with electronics, and so many medical problems
and drugs since as well, that I just may have a real adventure that day...

Bill in OKC



--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
>
>
> On May 6, 2011, at 8:37 PM, Stone Tool wrote:
>
> > I
> > would suggest finding an old sewing machine foot pedal and
> > experimenting.
>
> A light dimmer may be more readily available. A 600-watt light dimmer is
available from my local hardware store for $6.
>
> I wired one into a receptacle box along with a socket that was wired through
it. Most electric motors less than 600 watts can be controlled with it by
plugging it in to the special socket.
>
> This is how I control my squirrel fan for my oil burners.
>
>
> Best,
>
> Jeshua Lacock, Owner
> <http://OpenOSX.com>
> phone: 208.462.4171
>

On 5/7/2011 10:17 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
>
> That won't work for the larger motors, though, Jeshsua. 600watts is
> about 5 amps, and it's an inductive load, which filament lamps are
> not. Most shop vacs are considerably more than 5 amp draw. Mine is a
> 11.5amps, 5.5hp peak. And it does heat up when the intake is blocked,
> unlike another poster suggested. It's a Shop Vac brand, not a clone.
>
> Now, if you can find one designed for 12 amps or so of inductive load,
> that would be NICE! I've been looking for a 120VAC autotransformer
> with a high amperage output rating that I could afford for about 39
> years now, and no luck so far...
>
> I'm planning on trying a 600watt dimmer on the transformer running the
> 24V cooling fan I intend to install in my HF flux-core welder, but not
> betting it will survive the experience, either. That is nearly a
> PURELY inductive load.
>
> It's been so long since I played with electronics, and so many medical
> problems and drugs since as well, that I just may have a real
> adventure that day...
>
> Bill in OKC
>
You could use a router speed control. Routers are brushed universal
motors just like shop vacs.

<http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G3555-Router-Speed-Control/dp/B0000DD1R4>
or
ebay auction # 190529956554
or
<http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html>

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

There are two kinds of posts on newsgroups.
1. This is what I have done...
2. This is what I think...
Be aware of the difference!

http://www.ourcadguy.com/

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On May 7, 2011, at 8:17 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:

> That won't work for the larger motors, though, Jeshsua. 600watts is about 5
amps, and it's an inductive load, which filament lamps are not. Most shop vacs
are considerably more than 5 amp draw. Mine is a 11.5amps, 5.5hp peak. And it
does heat up when the intake is blocked, unlike another poster suggested. It's a
Shop Vac brand, not a clone.
>
> Now, if you can find one designed for 12 amps or so of inductive load, that
would be NICE! I've been looking for a 120VAC autotransformer with a high
amperage output rating that I could afford for about 39 years now, and no luck
so far...
>
> I'm planning on trying a 600watt dimmer on the transformer running the 24V
cooling fan I intend to install in my HF flux-core welder, but not betting it
will survive the experience, either. That is nearly a PURELY inductive load.
>
> It's been so long since I played with electronics, and so many medical
problems and drugs since as well, that I just may have a real adventure that
day...

I have certainly seen higher rated dimmers, but they are less common.

Here is a 1500-watt dimmer for $25:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ideal-Industries-Dimmer-switch-NOS-1500-Watts-/180656063905?\
pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0ff0c5a1


But, seems unusual to me to use a shop vac for a blower. Wouldn't a squirrel fan
be much more efficient?

I have a salvaged squirrel fan from a discarded AC unit and puts out more air
then I ever need even to melt 200 pounds of iron. Think she only draws a couple
hundred watts max.



Best,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

This discussion on blowers has been very educational ,I will agree that
a shop vac is not the  most efficient way to go , but hey that's  what I
had on hand and it does do double duty as a shop vac.
  Now from time to time I do go off in to la la land and this maybe one
of them but  I seem to remember something about a AC motors RPM being
limited by 60HZ ?

                                              Thank You

On Sun, May 8, 2011 at 8:30 AM, frozen chosen <walter2@...> wrote:
>  This discussion on blowers has been very educational ,I will agree that
> a shop vac is not the  most efficient way to go , but hey that's  what I
> had on hand and it does do double duty as a shop vac.
>  Now from time to time I do go off in to la la land and this maybe one
> of them but  I seem to remember something about a AC motors RPM being
> limited by 60HZ ?

Depends on the type of motor. Induction motors, split-phase motors,
and synchronous motors all care what the frequency is, and run at some
fraction of it (or a little less than some fraction, eg 1725 rpm).
Brushed universal motors don't; they operate much more like DC motors,
and run at a higher RPM than the line frequency (usually, unless you
use a speed control to slow them down).

Evan Daniel

That is one of those "YMMV" things, Jeshua. It depends on what you have access
to, or can afford. In my particular case, I've been unemployed, or seriously
underemployed, for the past three years. I am a packrat, so there is a fairly
substantial junk pile, considering I spent most of the 24 years before I got
here with a household-goods limit and moving every 2-5 years. I've got one
squirrel cage blower, but haven't been able to find or scrounge another one in
the 15 years I've been living here. I did spend a 10 year period of that time
going to college, and studying, and trying to become a school teacher, so that
has kind of interrupted my packratting rather badly.

I do have two shop vacs. One large, one small. No $$ to buy much of anything
new. I've been needing a slide-hammer tool for several years, found one in a
thrift shop for $6 the other day, and bought it, and I scavenge stuff from
freecycle, but there are certain items that don't show up frequently. I did
score one of the old US military desks I'd used when I was a young troop, about
a month ago. $15, and they helped me load it, but it's still in the back of my
truck, as I've been sick, and not gotten my shop squared away enough to bring it
in. Which in it's turn limits my ability to scrounge more...

I'm looking at possibly having to buy a new battery for my car, after having
spent $200 getting it re-registered and back on the road so my wife can go do
stuff, too.  We've been a one-functional-car family for the past year or so.
Stuff like this doesn't leave much for discretionary spending, as the kids keep
insisting that I feed them and take them to school activities and such...

And at that, I'm very lucky, as I have retirement income from my time in the Air
Force. Lots of people are much worse off than we are right now.

What all this means is that one thing will work for you, and another for me, and
that there are probably at least seven other ways to do it, depending on
circumstances, and availability of good junk, money, and assistance from others.

For example, after I sent the message you replied to, I condsidered putting a
ceramic lamp socket in series with my 24V transformer, and using that to show a
more resistive load to my 600watt dimmer switch, which I have had laying about
for years. Originally bought it to control the temperature of a soldering iron,
which would have probably had the same problems my transformer will present. ;)

What is best is not necessarily all that will work, IOW.

Sooner or later, if enough people post enough info, there will be a way to do
what we want, with what we have, or can easily get.

HTH!

Bill in OKC



--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
>
>
> On May 7, 2011, at 8:17 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
>
> > That won't work for the larger motors, though, Jeshsua. 600watts is about 5
amps, and it's an inductive load, which filament lamps are not. Most shop vacs
are considerably more than 5 amp draw. Mine is a 11.5amps, 5.5hp peak. And it
does heat up when the intake is blocked, unlike another poster suggested. It's a
Shop Vac brand, not a clone.
> >
> > Now, if you can find one designed for 12 amps or so of inductive load, that
would be NICE! I've been looking for a 120VAC autotransformer with a high
amperage output rating that I could afford for about 39 years now, and no luck
so far...
> >
> > I'm planning on trying a 600watt dimmer on the transformer running the 24V
cooling fan I intend to install in my HF flux-core welder, but not betting it
will survive the experience, either. That is nearly a PURELY inductive load.
> >
> > It's been so long since I played with electronics, and so many medical
problems and drugs since as well, that I just may have a real adventure that
day...
>
> I have certainly seen higher rated dimmers, but they are less common.
>
> Here is a 1500-watt dimmer for $25:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ideal-Industries-Dimmer-switch-NOS-1500-Watts-/180656063905?\
pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0ff0c5a1
>
>
> But, seems unusual to me to use a shop vac for a blower. Wouldn't a squirrel
fan be much more efficient?
>
> I have a salvaged squirrel fan from a discarded AC unit and puts out more air
then I ever need even to melt 200 pounds of iron. Think she only draws a couple
hundred watts max.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
> Jeshua Lacock, Owner
> <http://OpenOSX.com>
> phone: 208.462.4171
>

try looking at automotive stuff......pollution pump for example...a nice little
vane blower with a belt pulley....can be picked up from a junk yard pretty
cheaply... newer vehicles don't use them.  Hooh it up to some small motor ...
quarter horse or less.... I always have a few motors laying about .....doesn't
everybody?   I have a very impressive fan made from a 3/4 hp 3450 rpm motor and
a VW cooling fan mounted via a Gates type hub.  I built a housing (volute type).
It's IMPRESSIVE!! .....  Sounds like a jet engine idling.  I use it for forced
air on a huge incinerator.... Far bigger than what a melting furnace needs of
course....Unless you are making ingot from scrap.   Even an alternator fan moves
a lotta air.... they will spin over 10,000 rpm in a car, but utilizing one would
be a challenge.   My original furnace has an aluminum housed fan I found
somewhere.... about 2" wide 8" dia centrifugal forge type blower, on quarter hp
motor.    I just went out and looked at my "junk" collection..... I have two
very large alternator fans (truck), and a few small engine flywheels.   The
small engine flywheels are about perfect profile for moving air with some force
behind it .... large and narrow.... but of course they are
counterweighted....... Use an entire small Briggs ..... case, bearings, etc,
with piston and rod removed, and spin it with an electric motor.    Really you
can't beat a "Mikey Burner".... (Mike Porter)....". No forced air.    I have
built 5 of the big ones, and have a furnace with a triple header in it.   But
you gotta have lathe access.

       The possibilities are pretty endless if you have tools, equipment and
knowhow ... I can't imagine not having a shop with metal working stuff ...... 
My collection goes back to the early 70's, and I have friends who have what I
lack.

                              Howard


Sent from my iPad

On May 8, 2011, at 11:22 AM, "oldstudentmsgt" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

> That is one of those "YMMV" things, Jeshua. It depends on what you have access
to, or can afford. In my particular case, I've been unemployed, or seriously
underemployed, for the past three years. I am a packrat, so there is a fairly
substantial junk pile, considering I spent most of the 24 years before I got
here with a household-goods limit and moving every 2-5 years. I've got one
squirrel cage blower, but haven't been able to find or scrounge another one in
the 15 years I've been living here. I did spend a 10 year period of that time
going to college, and studying, and trying to become a school teacher, so that
has kind of interrupted my packratting rather badly.
>
> I do have two shop vacs. One large, one small. No $$ to buy much of anything
new. I've been needing a slide-hammer tool for several years, found one in a
thrift shop for $6 the other day, and bought it, and I scavenge stuff from
freecycle, but there are certain items that don't show up frequently. I did
score one of the old US military desks I'd used when I was a young troop, about
a month ago. $15, and they helped me load it, but it's still in the back of my
truck, as I've been sick, and not gotten my shop squared away enough to bring it
in. Which in it's turn limits my ability to scrounge more...
>
> I'm looking at possibly having to buy a new battery for my car, after having
spent $200 getting it re-registered and back on the road so my wife can go do
stuff, too.  We've been a one-functional-car family for the past year or so.
Stuff like this doesn't leave much for discretionary spending, as the kids keep
insisting that I feed them and take them to school activities and such...
>
> And at that, I'm very lucky, as I have retirement income from my time in the
Air Force. Lots of people are much worse off than we are right now.
>
> What all this means is that one thing will work for you, and another for me,
and that there are probably at least seven other ways to do it, depending on
circumstances, and availability of good junk, money, and assistance from others.
>
> For example, after I sent the message you replied to, I condsidered putting a
ceramic lamp socket in series with my 24V transformer, and using that to show a
more resistive load to my 600watt dimmer switch, which I have had laying about
for years. Originally bought it to control the temperature of a soldering iron,
which would have probably had the same problems my transformer will present. ;)
>
> What is best is not necessarily all that will work, IOW.
>
> Sooner or later, if enough people post enough info, there will be a way to do
what we want, with what we have, or can easily get.
>
> HTH!
>
> Bill in OKC
>
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> On May 7, 2011, at 8:17 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
>>
>>> That won't work for the larger motors, though, Jeshsua. 600watts is about 5
amps, and it's an inductive load, which filament lamps are not. Most shop vacs
are considerably more than 5 amp draw. Mine is a 11.5amps, 5.5hp peak. And it
does heat up when the intake is blocked, unlike another poster suggested. It's a
Shop Vac brand, not a clone.
>>>
>>> Now, if you can find one designed for 12 amps or so of inductive load, that
would be NICE! I've been looking for a 120VAC autotransformer with a high
amperage output rating that I could afford for about 39 years now, and no luck
so far...
>>>
>>> I'm planning on trying a 600watt dimmer on the transformer running the 24V
cooling fan I intend to install in my HF flux-core welder, but not betting it
will survive the experience, either. That is nearly a PURELY inductive load.
>>>
>>> It's been so long since I played with electronics, and so many medical
problems and drugs since as well, that I just may have a real adventure that
day...
>>
>> I have certainly seen higher rated dimmers, but they are less common.
>>
>> Here is a 1500-watt dimmer for $25:
>>
>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ideal-Industries-Dimmer-switch-NOS-1500-Watts-/180656063905?\
pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0ff0c5a1
>>
>>
>> But, seems unusual to me to use a shop vac for a blower. Wouldn't a squirrel
fan be much more efficient?
>>
>> I have a salvaged squirrel fan from a discarded AC unit and puts out more air
then I ever need even to melt 200 pounds of iron. Think she only draws a couple
hundred watts max.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Jeshua Lacock, Owner
>> <http://OpenOSX.com>
>> phone: 208.462.4171
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

On May 8, 2011, at 11:22 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:

> That is one of those "YMMV" things, Jeshua. It depends on what you have access
to, or can afford. In my particular case, I've been unemployed, or seriously
underemployed, for the past three years. I am a packrat, so there is a fairly
substantial junk pile, considering I spent most of the 24 years before I got
here with a household-goods limit and moving every 2-5 years. I've got one
squirrel cage blower, but haven't been able to find or scrounge another one in
the 15 years I've been living here. I did spend a 10 year period of that time
going to college, and studying, and trying to become a school teacher, so that
has kind of interrupted my packratting rather badly.

I think most of us here are in the same boat. Being hobbyists we don't have a
pile of cash laying around to inject into our hobby.

> I do have two shop vacs. One large, one small. No $$ to buy much of anything
new. I've been needing a slide-hammer tool for several years, found one in a
thrift shop for $6 the other day, and bought it, and I scavenge stuff from
freecycle, but there are certain items that don't show up frequently. I did
score one of the old US military desks I'd used when I was a young troop, about
a month ago. $15, and they helped me load it, but it's still in the back of my
truck, as I've been sick, and not gotten my shop squared away enough to bring it
in. Which in it's turn limits my ability to scrounge more...

A squirrel fan is an easy find if you spend just a bit of time looking for one.

I am lucky, and the local county dump allows one to salvage through their metal
pile if you offer to sign a disclaimer that you won't sue if you injure
yourself. Even if they have a rule against it (as mine does) - they just happen
to have liability-release forms just sitting there waiting for the asking.

I have never been there and not seen a pile of discarded AC units laying there,
and I have never picked up an AC unit that didn't have a perfectly working
squirrel fan in it. In fact, I use a discarded AC unit as the only heater in my
(un-insulated) house by just pumping my hot spring through the two front and
back radiators with the squirrel fan reliably blasting out hot air for the last
3 winters. Once I get insulation in, I will be able to have the windows open
when it is negative 10F out!

If you don't have a willing dump, try recycling centers or salvage yards. They
buy AC units for the copper and aluminum they have in them. I bet if you found
someone that is cool they would give you the fan if you rip it out for free or a
couple bucks or beers.

Check craigslist. Most places have a free junk collection day - I can all but
promise you there will be at least one AC unit laying on the street on junk day.

> For example, after I sent the message you replied to, I condsidered putting a
ceramic lamp socket in series with my 24V transformer, and using that to show a
more resistive load to my 600watt dimmer switch, which I have had laying about
for years. Originally bought it to control the temperature of a soldering iron,
which would have probably had the same problems my transformer will present. ;)
>
> What is best is not necessarily all that will work, IOW.
>
> Sooner or later, if enough people post enough info, there will be a way to do
what we want, with what we have, or can easily get.

I can assure you that the electrical savings alone will more then justify the
"expense" of salvaging a fan better suited to the task at hand. 1500 watts
versus 100 watts adds up.

;)

Not to mention the peace and quiet you will gain.


Best,

Jeshua Lacock, Owner
<http://OpenOSX.com>
phone: 208.462.4171

for most furnace setups a trip to the local thrift store should allow a person
to find a Shop Vac that will provide more than enough air to run the normal
sized home furnace, you don't need the largest
shop vac that there is, I have made and ran succesfull burners using a Dewalt
14.4 volt 2 gallon vac on a one inch pipe this will give you enough heat in a
properly built forge to weld steel.

Most Shop Vacs do not use a motor that blows the air thru it for cooling but
instead use a more normal centrifugal style fan so that it can be used to not
only vacmun with but also to blow air with.

Sguirrel Cage type blowers there not fans, can be had readily from central
heating units as most nowdays due to goverment regulations use forced air
combustion. these blowers work well, two drawbacks to them are some are 220 and
not 110 volts, and some are open faced being intended to be mounted onto a panel
of the unit, they can be used it you take the time to make a face plate, they
can be controlled simply by attaching a swing gate on the inlet opening to block
off the amount of air the blower can suck in. this will not cause the motor to
heat up and overload as some people thnik it will cause the motor to run easier
with less load.

Most homebuilt hobby sized furnaces don't need a blower on them, as a properly
build natrually aspriated burner will achive bronze melting temperatures
successfully. The real trick is in what type of refactory you use in building
your furnace. One bag of a good commercially available 2600 degree castable
insulating refactory should result in a furnace that will melt up to and
including cast iron with no problems.

Remember the Thrift Store if your in need of a cheap Vacumn Cleaner or need a
new blower for a furnace burner. If you don't want to do a bunch of hacking and
modifiying get one of the little hand vac's that has an outlet that you can plug
a hose into and attach it to your burner tube, as Ron said a run to Harbor
Freight will net you a router speed controller for 20.00 bucks, it has a
variable side will control your Vac/Blower quite sucessfully.

DJA


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@...> wrote:
>
>
> On May 8, 2011, at 11:22 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
>
> > That is one of those "YMMV" things, Jeshua. It depends on what you have
access to, or can afford. In my particular case, I've been unemployed, or
seriously underemployed, for the past three years. I am a packrat, so there is a
fairly substantial junk pile, considering I spent most of the 24 years before I
got here with a household-goods limit and moving every 2-5 years. I've got one
squirrel cage blower, but haven't been able to find or scrounge another one in
the 15 years I've been living here. I did spend a 10 year period of that time
going to college, and studying, and trying to become a school teacher, so that
has kind of interrupted my packratting rather badly.
>
> I think most of us here are in the same boat. Being hobbyists we don't have a
pile of cash laying around to inject into our hobby.
>
> > I do have two shop vacs. One large, one small. No $$ to buy much of anything
new. I've been needing a slide-hammer tool for several years, found one in a
thrift shop for $6 the other day, and bought it, and I scavenge stuff from
freecycle, but there are certain items that don't show up frequently. I did
score one of the old US military desks I'd used when I was a young troop, about
a month ago. $15, and they helped me load it, but it's still in the back of my
truck, as I've been sick, and not gotten my shop squared away enough to bring it
in. Which in it's turn limits my ability to scrounge more...
>
> A squirrel fan is an easy find if you spend just a bit of time looking for
one.
>
> I am lucky, and the local county dump allows one to salvage through their
metal pile if you offer to sign a disclaimer that you won't sue if you injure
yourself. Even if they have a rule against it (as mine does) - they just happen
to have liability-release forms just sitting there waiting for the asking.
>
> I have never been there and not seen a pile of discarded AC units laying
there, and I have never picked up an AC unit that didn't have a perfectly
working squirrel fan in it. In fact, I use a discarded AC unit as the only
heater in my (un-insulated) house by just pumping my hot spring through the two
front and back radiators with the squirrel fan reliably blasting out hot air for
the last 3 winters. Once I get insulation in, I will be able to have the windows
open when it is negative 10F out!
>
> If you don't have a willing dump, try recycling centers or salvage yards. They
buy AC units for the copper and aluminum they have in them. I bet if you found
someone that is cool they would give you the fan if you rip it out for free or a
couple bucks or beers.
>
> Check craigslist. Most places have a free junk collection day - I can all but
promise you there will be at least one AC unit laying on the street on junk day.
>
> > For example, after I sent the message you replied to, I condsidered putting
a ceramic lamp socket in series with my 24V transformer, and using that to show
a more resistive load to my 600watt dimmer switch, which I have had laying about
for years. Originally bought it to control the temperature of a soldering iron,
which would have probably had the same problems my transformer will present. ;)
> >
> > What is best is not necessarily all that will work, IOW.
> >
> > Sooner or later, if enough people post enough info, there will be a way to
do what we want, with what we have, or can easily get.
>
> I can assure you that the electrical savings alone will more then justify the
"expense" of salvaging a fan better suited to the task at hand. 1500 watts
versus 100 watts adds up.
>
> ;)
>
> Not to mention the peace and quiet you will gain.
>
>
> Best,
>
> Jeshua Lacock, Owner
> <http://OpenOSX.com>
> phone: 208.462.4171
>

I run two furnaces. One with a router speed control and the other with just a
"choke" on the intake side of the blower. Personally, the one with the choke is
easier to adjust but it makes the most noise as the blower is screaming at full
rpm all the time. the one with the router speed control is a MIFCO M-16 with a
blower from a M-30. I thought I was doing myself a favor by putting a larger
blower on it. As it turned out, I only need to set the speed control at about 25
to 30% before it starts running too lean. Then sometimes the speed control will
make the blower slow down or speed up so I'm usually fiddling with it everytime
I pour. If I were to make another furnace, I'd definetely check into
atmospherically aasperated with a simple choke on the intake. Prior to these
furnaces, I ran homemade ones with simple squirrel cage blowers and speed
controls and they worked as well as the commercial ones I have now. I guess
everyone does it a little different....



--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "David" <superdave257@...> wrote:
>
> for most furnace setups a trip to the local thrift store should allow a person
to find a Shop Vac that will provide more than enough air to run the normal
sized home furnace, you don't need the largest
> shop vac that there is, I have made and ran succesfull burners using a Dewalt
14.4 volt 2 gallon vac on a one inch pipe this will give you enough heat in a
properly built forge to weld steel.
>
> Most Shop Vacs do not use a motor that blows the air thru it for cooling but
instead use a more normal centrifugal style fan so that it can be used to not
only vacmun with but also to blow air with.
>
> Sguirrel Cage type blowers there not fans, can be had readily from central
heating units as most nowdays due to goverment regulations use forced air
combustion. these blowers work well, two drawbacks to them are some are 220 and
not 110 volts, and some are open faced being intended to be mounted onto a panel
of the unit, they can be used it you take the time to make a face plate, they
can be controlled simply by attaching a swing gate on the inlet opening to block
off the amount of air the blower can suck in. this will not cause the motor to
heat up and overload as some people thnik it will cause the motor to run easier
with less load.
>
> Most homebuilt hobby sized furnaces don't need a blower on them, as a properly
build natrually aspriated burner will achive bronze melting temperatures
successfully. The real trick is in what type of refactory you use in building
your furnace. One bag of a good commercially available 2600 degree castable
insulating refactory should result in a furnace that will melt up to and
including cast iron with no problems.
>
> Remember the Thrift Store if your in need of a cheap Vacumn Cleaner or need a
new blower for a furnace burner. If you don't want to do a bunch of hacking and
modifiying get one of the little hand vac's that has an outlet that you can plug
a hose into and attach it to your burner tube, as Ron said a run to Harbor
Freight will net you a router speed controller for 20.00 bucks, it has a
variable side will control your Vac/Blower quite sucessfully.
>
> DJA
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > On May 8, 2011, at 11:22 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
> >
> > > That is one of those "YMMV" things, Jeshua. It depends on what you have
access to, or can afford. In my particular case, I've been unemployed, or
seriously underemployed, for the past three years. I am a packrat, so there is a
fairly substantial junk pile, considering I spent most of the 24 years before I
got here with a household-goods limit and moving every 2-5 years. I've got one
squirrel cage blower, but haven't been able to find or scrounge another one in
the 15 years I've been living here. I did spend a 10 year period of that time
going to college, and studying, and trying to become a school teacher, so that
has kind of interrupted my packratting rather badly.
> >
> > I think most of us here are in the same boat. Being hobbyists we don't have
a pile of cash laying around to inject into our hobby.
> >
> > > I do have two shop vacs. One large, one small. No $$ to buy much of
anything new. I've been needing a slide-hammer tool for several years, found one
in a thrift shop for $6 the other day, and bought it, and I scavenge stuff from
freecycle, but there are certain items that don't show up frequently. I did
score one of the old US military desks I'd used when I was a young troop, about
a month ago. $15, and they helped me load it, but it's still in the back of my
truck, as I've been sick, and not gotten my shop squared away enough to bring it
in. Which in it's turn limits my ability to scrounge more...
> >
> > A squirrel fan is an easy find if you spend just a bit of time looking for
one.
> >
> > I am lucky, and the local county dump allows one to salvage through their
metal pile if you offer to sign a disclaimer that you won't sue if you injure
yourself. Even if they have a rule against it (as mine does) - they just happen
to have liability-release forms just sitting there waiting for the asking.
> >
> > I have never been there and not seen a pile of discarded AC units laying
there, and I have never picked up an AC unit that didn't have a perfectly
working squirrel fan in it. In fact, I use a discarded AC unit as the only
heater in my (un-insulated) house by just pumping my hot spring through the two
front and back radiators with the squirrel fan reliably blasting out hot air for
the last 3 winters. Once I get insulation in, I will be able to have the windows
open when it is negative 10F out!
> >
> > If you don't have a willing dump, try recycling centers or salvage yards.
They buy AC units for the copper and aluminum they have in them. I bet if you
found someone that is cool they would give you the fan if you rip it out for
free or a couple bucks or beers.
> >
> > Check craigslist. Most places have a free junk collection day - I can all
but promise you there will be at least one AC unit laying on the street on junk
day.
> >
> > > For example, after I sent the message you replied to, I condsidered
putting a ceramic lamp socket in series with my 24V transformer, and using that
to show a more resistive load to my 600watt dimmer switch, which I have had
laying about for years. Originally bought it to control the temperature of a
soldering iron, which would have probably had the same problems my transformer
will present. ;)
> > >
> > > What is best is not necessarily all that will work, IOW.
> > >
> > > Sooner or later, if enough people post enough info, there will be a way to
do what we want, with what we have, or can easily get.
> >
> > I can assure you that the electrical savings alone will more then justify
the "expense" of salvaging a fan better suited to the task at hand. 1500 watts
versus 100 watts adds up.
> >
> > ;)
> >
> > Not to mention the peace and quiet you will gain.
> >
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
> > <http://OpenOSX.com>
> > phone: 208.462.4171
> >
>

most people don't know that if you take a preferated tube and wrap it with foam
rubber or some other sound deadening material that it will quiten down most of
the noise that is created by a vacumn cleaner motor. its the air rushing into
the the fan housing that causes the noise.

Myself I don't really have any problem with the fan noise as my coffee roaster
makes more noise running then my furnace and the nebighors haven't said anything
yet.

I will say that the Router Speed controller from HF isn't the best speed control
that there is to use and if I had a three phase motor I would use one of the
VFD's that I have that will workk off of single phase to control the blower
with.

the speeding up or down on your blower is probably caused more from fluxuations
in the power grid then the controller I have the same problem at my house.

If I was only doing Aluminum I would stick with a atmospheric burner they build
enough heat to do aluminum and brass and bronze but when you start to do large
amounts of cast iron I don't feel that they can keep up. and most people don't
realize that you don't really need speed control, all you have to do is control
the amount of air that you let into the blower to be able to control it.

David



--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Lyle" <creepinogie@...> wrote:
>
> I run two furnaces. One with a router speed control and the other with just a
"choke" on the intake side of the blower. Personally, the one with the choke is
easier to adjust but it makes the most noise as the blower is screaming at full
rpm all the time. the one with the router speed control is a MIFCO M-16 with a
blower from a M-30. I thought I was doing myself a favor by putting a larger
blower on it. As it turned out, I only need to set the speed control at about 25
to 30% before it starts running too lean. Then sometimes the speed control will
make the blower slow down or speed up so I'm usually fiddling with it everytime
I pour. If I were to make another furnace, I'd definetely check into
atmospherically aasperated with a simple choke on the intake. Prior to these
furnaces, I ran homemade ones with simple squirrel cage blowers and speed
controls and they worked as well as the commercial ones I have now. I guess
everyone does it a little different....
>
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "David" <superdave257@> wrote:
> >
> > for most furnace setups a trip to the local thrift store should allow a
person to find a Shop Vac that will provide more than enough air to run the
normal sized home furnace, you don't need the largest
> > shop vac that there is, I have made and ran succesfull burners using a
Dewalt 14.4 volt 2 gallon vac on a one inch pipe this will give you enough heat
in a properly built forge to weld steel.
> >
> > Most Shop Vacs do not use a motor that blows the air thru it for cooling but
instead use a more normal centrifugal style fan so that it can be used to not
only vacmun with but also to blow air with.
> >
> > Sguirrel Cage type blowers there not fans, can be had readily from central
heating units as most nowdays due to goverment regulations use forced air
combustion. these blowers work well, two drawbacks to them are some are 220 and
not 110 volts, and some are open faced being intended to be mounted onto a panel
of the unit, they can be used it you take the time to make a face plate, they
can be controlled simply by attaching a swing gate on the inlet opening to block
off the amount of air the blower can suck in. this will not cause the motor to
heat up and overload as some people thnik it will cause the motor to run easier
with less load.
> >
> > Most homebuilt hobby sized furnaces don't need a blower on them, as a
properly build natrually aspriated burner will achive bronze melting
temperatures successfully. The real trick is in what type of refactory you use
in building your furnace. One bag of a good commercially available 2600 degree
castable insulating refactory should result in a furnace that will melt up to
and including cast iron with no problems.
> >
> > Remember the Thrift Store if your in need of a cheap Vacumn Cleaner or need
a new blower for a furnace burner. If you don't want to do a bunch of hacking
and modifiying get one of the little hand vac's that has an outlet that you can
plug a hose into and attach it to your burner tube, as Ron said a run to Harbor
Freight will net you a router speed controller for 20.00 bucks, it has a
variable side will control your Vac/Blower quite sucessfully.
> >
> > DJA
> >
> >
> > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Jeshua Lacock <jeshua@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On May 8, 2011, at 11:22 AM, oldstudentmsgt wrote:
> > >
> > > > That is one of those "YMMV" things, Jeshua. It depends on what you have
access to, or can afford. In my particular case, I've been unemployed, or
seriously underemployed, for the past three years. I am a packrat, so there is a
fairly substantial junk pile, considering I spent most of the 24 years before I
got here with a household-goods limit and moving every 2-5 years. I've got one
squirrel cage blower, but haven't been able to find or scrounge another one in
the 15 years I've been living here. I did spend a 10 year period of that time
going to college, and studying, and trying to become a school teacher, so that
has kind of interrupted my packratting rather badly.
> > >
> > > I think most of us here are in the same boat. Being hobbyists we don't
have a pile of cash laying around to inject into our hobby.
> > >
> > > > I do have two shop vacs. One large, one small. No $$ to buy much of
anything new. I've been needing a slide-hammer tool for several years, found one
in a thrift shop for $6 the other day, and bought it, and I scavenge stuff from
freecycle, but there are certain items that don't show up frequently. I did
score one of the old US military desks I'd used when I was a young troop, about
a month ago. $15, and they helped me load it, but it's still in the back of my
truck, as I've been sick, and not gotten my shop squared away enough to bring it
in. Which in it's turn limits my ability to scrounge more...
> > >
> > > A squirrel fan is an easy find if you spend just a bit of time looking for
one.
> > >
> > > I am lucky, and the local county dump allows one to salvage through their
metal pile if you offer to sign a disclaimer that you won't sue if you injure
yourself. Even if they have a rule against it (as mine does) - they just happen
to have liability-release forms just sitting there waiting for the asking.
> > >
> > > I have never been there and not seen a pile of discarded AC units laying
there, and I have never picked up an AC unit that didn't have a perfectly
working squirrel fan in it. In fact, I use a discarded AC unit as the only
heater in my (un-insulated) house by just pumping my hot spring through the two
front and back radiators with the squirrel fan reliably blasting out hot air for
the last 3 winters. Once I get insulation in, I will be able to have the windows
open when it is negative 10F out!
> > >
> > > If you don't have a willing dump, try recycling centers or salvage yards.
They buy AC units for the copper and aluminum they have in them. I bet if you
found someone that is cool they would give you the fan if you rip it out for
free or a couple bucks or beers.
> > >
> > > Check craigslist. Most places have a free junk collection day - I can all
but promise you there will be at least one AC unit laying on the street on junk
day.
> > >
> > > > For example, after I sent the message you replied to, I condsidered
putting a ceramic lamp socket in series with my 24V transformer, and using that
to show a more resistive load to my 600watt dimmer switch, which I have had
laying about for years. Originally bought it to control the temperature of a
soldering iron, which would have probably had the same problems my transformer
will present. ;)
> > > >
> > > > What is best is not necessarily all that will work, IOW.
> > > >
> > > > Sooner or later, if enough people post enough info, there will be a way
to do what we want, with what we have, or can easily get.
> > >
> > > I can assure you that the electrical savings alone will more then justify
the "expense" of salvaging a fan better suited to the task at hand. 1500 watts
versus 100 watts adds up.
> > >
> > > ;)
> > >
> > > Not to mention the peace and quiet you will gain.
> > >
> > >
> > > Best,
> > >
> > > Jeshua Lacock, Owner
> > > <http://OpenOSX.com>
> > > phone: 208.462.4171
> > >
> >
>

Hey Guys,
After building Jim's furnace, I got the bug and an idea,
SO-O-O-O-O!
I just had to build a bigger one.

http://www.imarketingcenter.com/foundry

The bottom two in the table is the new build.
As soon as my refractory gets here I'll put up
the page on making the molds and the lining of
the furnace.

Got an idea for the furnace mounting and work
platform as well, but that will have to wait
for another paycheck to afford it.

As always feedback is always welcome.

Grandpa Bill

I thought I remembered seeing a fluffer built using the front gear
box from a snow blower. Now that I have a gear box from an old snow
blower, an hour of searching the web didn't turn it up. Assuming that
I'm not dreaming, could someone point in the right direction?

Dick Morris
Anchorage, Alaska

I remember that subject. thought it was the business end of a  rotortiller?
bill hinkle
PS: I would like to be refreshed again on the proper goodies needed to make
  one to...thanks


In a message dated 5/27/2011 9:39:37 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
rmorris@... writes:




I thought I remembered seeing a fluffer built using the front gear
box  from a snow blower. Now that I have a gear box from an old snow
blower, an  hour of searching the web didn't turn it up. Assuming that
I'm not  dreaming, could someone point in the right direction?

Dick  Morris
Anchorage, Alaska






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 5/27/2011 11:54 PM, wbhinkle@... wrote:
>
> I remember that subject. thought it was the business end of a rotortiller?
> bill hinkle
> PS: I would like to be refreshed again on the proper goodies needed to
> make
> one to...thanks
>
>
> In a message dated 5/27/2011 9:39:37 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> rmorris@... <mailto:rmorris%40alaska.net> writes:
>
> I thought I remembered seeing a fluffer built using the front gear
> box from a snow blower. Now that I have a gear box from an old snow
> blower, an hour of searching the web didn't turn it up. Assuming that
> I'm not dreaming, could someone point in the right direction?
>
> Dick Morris
> Anchorage, Alaska
>
I thought the roto-tiller gearbox was to make a muller. The fluffers I
have seen were direct drive on an electric motor.
<http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/hite/muller/muller.htm>
<http://schoepp.hylands.net/fluffer.html>

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

There are two kinds of posts on newsgroups.
1. This is what I have done...
2. This is what I think...
Be aware of the difference!

http://www.ourcadguy.com/

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]